 The edges of the houppelande were often "dagged", or cut into decorative patterns such as scallops, "embattled" tabs or even leaf shapes.The term "houppelande" is of French origin; in England it was called a "goun", a term of mockery, and in Italy, a "pellanda".It is first mentioned in French royal inventories in 1359 and is thought to have originated as a man's housecoat worn over the pourpoint.