 The Houppelande, in Italy called the "", is the characteristic overgarment of the wealthy in the first half of the 15th century.It was essentially a robe with fullness falling from the shoulders in organ pleats and very full sleeves often reaching to the floor with, at the start of the 16th century, a high collar.The houppelande could be lined in fur, and the hem and sleeves might be dagged or cut into scallops.