 Among her signature designs were little black dresses for young girls, which, with bright accessories and details, allowed the wearer to have a "grown up" dress whilst avoiding an austere appearance.The fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert credited her with recognising an untapped market, and the fashion historian Richard Martin stated that Wilkens "invented the American teenager" long before rock and roll and James Dean consolidated the concept.By 1947, she was said to have served over eight million customers.