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Two trends in the development of the Scottish breed.

Development of the Scottish breed in our country is fast enough and cats breed Scottish Fold ( Scottish Fold) gained popularity breeders and love of the public . The problem with their breeding , is that you must knit Scottish Fold only pryamouhy cats. Mating with Scottish Scottish lead to the appearance of such serious defects offspring skeleton ( spliced vertebrae spinal defects , clutches , etc.). That is why for mating Cat with hanging ears ( dominant gene Fd) picked up the cat with straight ears ( recessive gene fd) of different breeds – the British , Persians, Exotics , and ” Straight ” – the descendants of Scottish pryamouhie . For a long time during the selection process can not be controlled.
As a result, a considerable number of animals , so called . ” Straights “, unfortunately , quite different types:
• From matings with the British rock – Straight ” British-style ” – quite heavy , squat , round-headed , short thick tail – almost compliant to the BCS
• From Breeding Persians \ Exotics – Straight ” zaekzochennogo type” – too pronounced stop, sometimes tapered nose
• From matings with the British average type and other straights – Straight ” any type ” – stretched , round head is not enough , long tail , feet tall , deep-set eyes .
Thus British Shorthair breed dignity – it disadvantages Scottish fold . As a result of such matings (Scottish + British , Scottish + Persian + Exotic Scottish ) deteriorated type and British and Scottish . Cats began to appear ” intermediate type ” – not the average type with slightly elevated British ears, not the old-type Persians, not the Scottish long legs . Deteriorated British breed type and in general, and Scottish Fold .
Thus, modern European Straight breed combines features British , Persians and Scottish , which led to a blurring of the lines between these species and the loss of Scottish Fold breed type .
Recently gaining momentum popularity Scottish American type . And it is not surprising ; charming expressive muzzle with wide open and trusting glazishchami same wa ) is tame, sociable , unpretentious with a stable psyche and compares favorably to the European type ( which are on the breedings with the British and the Persians ) , which entailed , nervousness and uncommunicativeness , lovely plush wool, but the short and massive body problem tails drooping nose leather , and most importantly it is at best a single fold of the ear , which is rectified with hormonal surges . In 1976 the American breeding prohibited knit Persians, Exotics and British permitted only matings Akshay and straights ( pryamouhih descendants) . But it is the American Shorthair koshkastala boon for the Scots, it gave it a wonderful expression muzzles and gave a rich range of colors, including bi-color . Alas, Europe could not find a partner for the Scots , and that is why European Scottish inferior to their American counterparts .
Nevertheless, a more experienced breeders in Europe started picking up in pairs for Scottish increasingly growing popularity of American Shorthair , which leads to the approximation to the standard American-style Scottish shorthair cats :
- More stretched in the housing ;
- With a long and narrow tail ;
- Less massive and jowly ;
- With a thin and soft ear cartilage ;
- 4m round circles (head with ears , eyes and nose area / podusniki ) , with an open view , innocent baby face ;
- Flexible with healthy bone.
Not all breeders are selected as partners Scots CABG because :
- Elementary ignorance ;
- Just going with the flow ( full straights and CABG still need to search );
- The big difference in price between the CABG and straights .

Repeatedly got up the problem of ” straights “, ie the descendants of matings pryamouhih Scottish fold cats and other breeds. The theory that the Straights – “carriers” of the gene of lop-eared , does not hold water . Gene foldovosti Fd – dominant and “carry” it is impossible to recessive . Perhaps hanging ears Folds – bigennogo result of inheritance or gene complex , linked (?) Allele Fd / fd. Then possible that the descendant of Scottish fold with straight ears inherit some mechanisms by which the ears of their descendants Fd « fit ” better. While this theory has received no explanation – no genetic or practical . Therefore, in the ears fold fold ( deep or less double or single) does not depend on pryamouhy partner Scottish fold : be it Straight or CABG .

Riddles American Scottish fold

Scottish Fold breeders and cat lovers conquered the whole world. These cute and charming establishment or anyone can not remain indifferent. During the years of its existence, and it is already more than 30 years, the breed has passed “through the thorns to the stars.” She “opened” and “closed”, and forbade her again permitted. Scottish Fold European breeders brought many surprises and disappointments. Only the Americans managed to pick up the “keys” to the mysteries Fold cats.

The first ten years of working with Fold in the U.S. – it is trial and error . One of the first American breeders consultants Scottish fold was Dr.Rosemond Peltz, who built their programs on the principle: ” Hurry slowly ! Be extremely careful in those crosses to avoid manifestations in the offspring of undesirable characteristics .” And it was she who first developed a breeding program using extended outbreeding to increase the gene pool . As a result, disappeared skeletal disorders, began to disappear shortened tails , animals were returned to health. As the ” improvers ” Scottish fold used mainly American Shorthair .

On the European continent folds back already “Americanized” in February 1973. Fold Europeans engaged for over 40 years, almost as much time devoted to the breed and American breeders. Why do Europeans still failed to get livestock folds that could compete with American breeding animals? After all circuits are known, pick up manufacturers and go for the laurels of success! But it turned out that is not so simple as it seems. Continue reading

Head, ears and tail Scottish fold.

In this article it was impossible to stay on all features of breed Scottish Fold and evaluation in general, but we have chosen the most important aspects – the head, ears and tail . Especially considering that they cause endless disputes breeders .
Because, among straights , Foldy Allowed matings with American Shorthair , the standard does not fold so strict and not prescribed in detail how the standards of other , more “clean” and established breeds. Certainly the drafters of the standard thought over this question , given the specificity of the breed and crossbreeding . For example, not too big requirements for the type of coat and color . Also , in the description of the head indicated that ” the profile line may vary ” , but it certainly requires a straight , wide and short nose . The transition area from the forehead to the nose should be as smooth dents or grooves without a deep stop, ie without such a sharp boundary , as the Persians . Yet this transition should be noticeable , and this helps quite a high and prominent forehead Scottish . The main requirement for a head line of roundness and ears which are to be folded and pressed so as to emphasize this roundness.  Continue reading


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‘Press for Progress’ IWD event

David Stringer-Lamarre, Managing Director of FortisCL, within his capacity as Chairman of the Institute of Directors (IoD), London Region, was pleased to attend this IoD City of London event.

This event in support of International Women’s Day (IWD) was focused upon Press for Progress, this year’s IWD theme.

The welcome address was delivered by Mei Sim Lai OBE DL, Honorary Secretary.

Speeches on the theme of Press for Progress were made by the following.

  • Professor Marianne Lewis, Cass Business School
  • David Isaac, Chair of Human Rights & Equality Commission and Partner, Pinsent Masons
  • Elysia McCaffrey, Deputy Director, Women in Business, DfE Government Equalities Office
  • Zehan Al-Bakri, Chairman, PAWA ( Pan Asian Women’s Association)
  • David Stringer-Lamarre, Chairman IoD London region and Managing Director, Fortis Consulting London

Networking, an auction and raffles followed.

Image, right to left: Zehan Al-Bakr, David Isaac, Mei Sim Lai, Prof Marianne Lewis, David Stringer-Lamarre & Elysia McCaffrey


text:
Business Plan Construction & Assessment

Well thought out and considered Business Plans greatly increase the chances of success.

Business Plans are needed when rolling out a new product, a revamp of service provision or entering a new market space.

A poorly constructed Business Plan can result in wasted time, energy, unnecessary costs and lost opportunities.

  • The good Business Plan considers the pertinent elements of the individual project allowing an effective assessment of whether or not to proceed
  • Financials are important, but only a part of the Business Plan process
  • The Business Plan’s milestones help to drive and assess the implementation phase(s)
  • The contents of Business Plans vary and they need to be adapted to the specifics of the project in hand; they will have considered thought and evaluation at the centre of them

Our team has extensive experience in helping companies to clarify their thoughts and articulate their vision before the Business Plan process commences, helping them design an appropriate Business Plan skeleton and working with the responsible person/people to drive the construction of the Business Plan.

If a Business Plan has already been created Fortis Consulting London, working with the client, can assess and evaluate the Business Plan for coherence and robustness in line with its stated aim(s).


text:
By Aaron Pressman and Adam Lashinsky
July 12, 2018

This is the web version of Data Sheet, Fortune’s daily newsletter on the top tech news. To get it delivered daily to your in-box, sign up here.

Some people like buying houses in lots of different places. Larry Ellison comes to mind. Some companies like to buy businesses that have nothing to do with their own. Coca-Cola once owned Columbia Pictures, presumably on the assumption that marketing sugar water ought not be that different from marketing movies. General Electric owned an investment house, Kidder Peabody. Jack Welch famously hated the compensation plans for star bankers, a different bunch than salute-and-follow-orders GE managers.

Broadcom, the semiconductor company formerly known as Avago, likes to buy things too. Given its Chinese ties, though, buying chipmakers has become more difficult (though in April it officially re-domiciled to the United States from Singapore). So the acquisitive company, acting more like a buyout firm than a manufacturer, has turned to software. It announced a $19-billion deal to purchase CA Technologies, the once-scandal-plagued mainframe-computer software maker formerly known as Computer Associates—and a serial acquirer itself back in the day.

Chip investors are puzzled by the move. “We guess we are going to be giving ourselves a crash course in mainframe and enterprise computing,” Ambrish Srivastava, an analyst with BMO Capital Markets, wrote to clients. Software analysts, meantime, smell opportunity. “We think the acquisition is supportive of unloved, value-oriented software stocks and highlights the durability of such businesses,” opined Brad Zelnick, who follows software stocks for Credit Suisse. “The deal also suggests a much larger universe of strategic buyers than most investors appreciate.”

The other day I wrote that Vista Equity Partners founder Robert Smith believes enterprise software companies share so many characteristics that best practices can be applied to operating many of them. Broadcom CEO Hock Tan is matching Smith’s thesis and raising him an industry: All enterprise technologies look alike to Broadcom.

It’s worth noting that Coke isn’t in the film business anymore. As for GE, which dumped Kidder a long time ago, well, it’s not in many businesses at all anymore.

Adam Lashinsky

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Topic: Strangeness with Serial and pololu (Read 1 time) previous topic - next topic

Hi -

I'm using a pololu servo controller via Serial - I have pin #1 (tx) on the arduino connected to "logic-level serial input" pin #3 on the pololu. Power and gnd is wired okay, I'm using 3 servos - it all works.

Sort of.

If I power up the arduino, and connect a terminal (can see the text equivalent of the commands sent to the pololu) everything works great. I can then quit the terminal app, unplug the usb cable, and the servos continue to work fine.

But if I don't hook up the terminal app, it doesn't work. In other words, if I just power up the board with no usb or terminal app, the servos don't move - there is something that the polulo doesn't like (?). As soon as a terminal app is connected, the servos start turning (and the app can be killed and usb unplugged).

I can't figure out what the heck is going on.

Can anyone shed any light? Seems that the act of connecting the terminal somehow "makes it work".

Cheers, and thanks.

How are you powering your setup when it is not connected to the USB port?
Google forum search: Use Google Search box in upper right side of this page.
Why I like my 2005 Rio Yellow Honda S2000  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWjMvrkUqX0

Hello- I have 5v power supply- it doesn't seem to be power related, as it works with just the 5v supply.

The weird part is that the terminal program needs to be connected to serial, if only briefly- it can be disconnected and the servos continue to work.

May be code that expects some type of terminal interaction.
Google forum search: Use Google Search box in upper right side of this page.
Why I like my 2005 Rio Yellow Honda S2000  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWjMvrkUqX0

Sounds more like the Arduino is not properly initializing serial communication with the controller. Post a link to the controller (and data sheet) and your code.
The art of getting good answers lies in asking good questions.

The user's guide for the pololu is here:

My code is straightforward - here's my setup function:

void setup()

And the commands to control the servo take place here:

void servoSet(int servo, int angle)
     unsigned char buff[6];

     unsigned int temp;
     unsigned char pos_hi,pos_low;

     temp = angle & 0x1f80;
     pos_hi = temp >> 7;
     pos_low = angle & 0x7f;

     buff[0] = 0x80; //start byte
     buff[1] = 0x01; //device id
     buff[2] = 0x04; //command number
     buff[3] = servo; //servo number
     buff[4] = pos_hi; //data1
     buff[5] = pos_low; //data2

     for(int i = 0; i < 6; i++) Serial.print(buff, BYTE);

And so a call to servoSet sets the position of the servo.

As stated, all works fine as long as a terminal connection has been connected briefly.

There is a possibly similar thread here, but it doesn't address my issue:

ARG. Arg arg arg - I apologize - I am an idiot - I went down a rabbit hole - still have the issue, but it's not related to the pololu - this is a red herring.

The way I am sending messages to the arduino is via the ethernet shield - have a little http server. If I connect the terminal app, then everything works, if I don't connect the terminal app via serial, then nothing.

So, something to do with how Serial and Ethernet are behaving - I am still stumped, but know a bit more.

Hmmmm... Frustrating....

Closing this thread out, and starting a new one, as the problem still persists, in that I need a serial connection before the server works.

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Topic: Arduino UNO serial port and Perl (Read 2158 times) previous topic - next topic

I am pretty new with arudino and i have a problem with my Perl scripts and Arduino UNO r3.

I have made a code to my arduino which switch off or on Arduino board led1 if i send number 0 or 1 to it via serialport.
That code also send information about that is led on or off via serial port back to computer.

I have also referenced from internet a simple perl script which send number 1 to arduino, wait and send number 0, and looping this.
That script also read information from serial port about that is led on or off.

This all works fine if i first open my arduino IDE serial monitor and after that i close it. Then serial port opens in arduino and everything works.
But if i instantly after plugging USB cable to my arduino run my perl script serial trffic dosnt work.

I´m running Windows 7 and WIN32::SerialPort class. I do open serial port in perl something like this:

Note this code isnt my own.

use Win32::SerialPort;
my $port = Win32::SerialPort->new("COM7");
# 19200, 81N on the USB ftdi driver
$port->baudrate(9600); # you may change this value
$port->databits(8); # but not this and the two following

It could happen that plugging the USB cause the allocation of a new COM instance, under Windows.
If so, you have to check what COM is using Arduino, once plugged, rather than forcing your choice ("COM7") before connection.
I'm also a newbie, but I hope this could help you. In any case, wait also for more expert suggestions! :)

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Thread: Battles
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Old 12-11-2003, 04:36 PM   #248
World's Tallest Hobbit
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Where the view is long
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Lindolirian has just left Hobbiton.

Nope. The name of the guy who died in this certain battle means "survivor of the battle" if that helps any.
'They say that the One will himself enter into Arda, and heal Men and all the Marring from the beginning to the end."
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Development Information

Forums for TGRDM3 [Home Not Yet Defined][/note]

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Posts: 857
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 3:44
Location: United States

Development Information

Post by Tiger » Mon Dec 05, 2011 5:59

Listed below is information regarding development names, and information. This might be useful later on down the road. This does not contain history information of 'TGRBase (1.90)', nor the 'Alpha Internal TGRDM3 Builds'.

01. Juni 2011
*Development Name: BlauNacht
*Revision: 100
*Achievements: Update the development cycle within TGRDM3 by improving off site resources and on site resources. Additionally, improving the core structure of the TGRDM3 database on how the project performs, while improving the core this will lead into a more standardized structure that can help improve the project through out the development. Moreover, plans for Early Open Alpha builds via SVN for users to easily play test the project. But, continuing to standardized the 3D Floor competitive standards, and generalized game play standards.
*Note: Glory Alpha was never built before the transition. Only known build is currently an ancient testing build that was never updated with the newer changes.

26. April 2010
*Development Name: Glory
*Achievements: Older DM maps from 'Crystal' will be used as the alternative DM stocks maps and no longer primary DM stock set, OpenGL will now be enforced with other maps; excluding the older stock set. Future DM maps will not carry the 'Boxie' syndrome, that has plagued the older stock sets, and the history projects.
*Seeking Goals: Set the new Standard to the DM Maps with 3D Floors.

11. Juni 2009
*Development Name: Crystal
*Version: 01.01.fa.a8
*Achievements: TGRBase grow alot, from the time it was first generated. TGR history internal developments have been hard, with alot of maps being rejected, kicking two level developers out of TGR due to separate reasons (Had an over-plate of work, the other due to failure on obtaining more designers; though might have been my fault for not properly finding a better solution to gain more designers.), maps took months to finish; must successful maps from 'Graphical' appearance, MAP01, and MAP02.
*Preview: Eins (Though, it was in the early developments during Crystal Dev. 01.01.0b.a1)

x. März 2007
*Early Development Name: Jana
*Version: 00.00.0a.00
*Achievements: TGRBase was first created, Huge project base plans became official goals.
Planed - Main areas: DM (Dominate), Duel, ADM and KoTH.
Planed - Biggest Sight: CMU, Hosted on big dedicated ST Servers (VP1, TNC, SuperGod's Servers, etc)
Planed - Project plans: Giving it a brain, making something that is smart and executes and adjusts to the right setting from the environments current state. RPC Professional (v2), many new features that will be grounded from the RPC Layer Protocol.
Nicholas Gautier

Return to “TGRDM3”


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Return to Feathercoin and future development

  • Team Development | Tip Bushstar

    Today is the first day that I start work on the Feathercoin 0.13 client, I’m very happy to be back in Feathercoin development as I’ve been away from it and crypto in general for quite a while and only just returned last summer.

    To quickly update those who do not know where I’ve been I went to work for Hullcoin over two years ago under contract, the contract did not allow me to work on other projects, they hit a funding hiatus in Summer 2017 breaching my contract allowing me to return. Afterwards I contributed to the release getting NeoScrypt to work properly for Scrypt hashing, update getwork for NeoScrypt, restore CheckProofOfWork with NeoScrypt profile as well as a few other changes. The rest of the time I’ve been working on commissioned projects to pay the bills, as well as progress UFO development, I was brought in to work on UFO in 2014 and have now adopted it as my own. UFO uses NeoScrypt and I took on commissioned work for Guncoin because it also uses NeoScrypt, it is an excellent updated version of Scrypt and it deserves to get more attention.

    During the last half a year I’ve earned enough to cover myself for the next quarter of a year, at the end of that period we would hope to have a bigger user base and the kind of success that demonstrates the merits technical development. This will help us crowd fund to bring in additional skill sets and progress the tech in multiple directions at once or secure direct investment, there are good ideas out there but to see them implemented we need to be able to pay for developers time. These are concerns for later as we can now progress with the next client which will bring us up-to-date and drive development forward.

    Feathercoin 0.13 is the client that I am starting on today, that version of the Bitcoin codebase has all the soft fork logic for the IsSuperMajority and Version Bits methods for soft forks. With the 0.13 client released we will be gaining the soft forks for OP_CHECKLOCKTIMEVERIFY, CHECKSEQUENCEVERIFY and everyone’s favourite, Segregated Witness. We certainly do not need the increased capacity that comes with SegWit but this will allow us to use other tech built on top of it like the Lightning Network which I believe is currently in the RC1 stage.

    Once we have 0.13 and all soft forks enabled we can follow Bitcoin’s codebase more closely to keep us at the very front of developments, pursue other technology like Lightning Network and find some unique solutions, some suggestions have been made like adding Smart Contracts, this is an area that needs its own investigation as there are simple and complex solutions to this request.

    There are many other changes between the current stable 0.9.x release and 0.13 the most notable of are the following.

    Headers first synchronization
    Dynamic transaction fees
    Hierarchical Deterministic Key Generation
    REST API interface
    Improved signing security
    Native Watch-only mode
    Separate feathercoin-tx binary
    Memory usage optimization
    Stream isolation for Tor
    Disable wallet transaction broadcast
    Block file pruning
    Signature validation using libsecp256k1
    Notifications through ZMQ
    NODE_BLOOM service bit
    Wallet Pruning
    Opt-in Replace-by-fee transactions
    Direct headers announcement
    Compact Block support

    You can contact me on this forum via PM or by one of the following.

    Email: [email protected]

  • Moderators | Tip wrapper

    Great news, thanks for the update.

  • Regular Member | Tip xonar

    Man, count with me.

  • Team Infrastructure | Tip ChekaZ

    Welcome back! I’ve truely waited for that moment! 🙂

  • | Tip Trancendence

    Teach me senpai!

  • Regular Member | Tip slavco

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answered Feb 24 by Anthony-Gaudino (7,720 points)
On newer versions of PlantUML the block appears inside the database.


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Tapered ball mill

This section is for useful tips and tricks for Aspire

Re: Tapered ball mill

Postby ger21 » Wed Feb 21, 2018 1:22 am

The big difference is that you can often skip the roughing pass when using a tapered ballnose, which saves a considerable amount of time.
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Re: Tapered ball mill

Postby kaetamer » Wed Feb 21, 2018 4:27 pm

martin54 - I did, in fact, find a setting error which significantly increased cutting times w/the TBN. Once corrected, cutting times are comparable to SBN.
ger21 - I was aware of possibly omitting the roughing pass but some of my carvings are quite deep - not sure I'd want to push the bit to nearly its DOC - or am I being too conservative?

Thanks to all for info.
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Re: Tapered ball mill

Postby Leo » Wed Feb 21, 2018 4:47 pm

There is no specific toolpath for a specific tool. Only 3D, pocket, profile - etc

The software (vectric) will calculate the toolpath based on the shape of the cutter (tool) as it is described in the tool database. The radius on the tool tip as well as the tapered angles on the tool are calculated into the toolpath.

Sooooo - the tool data base needs to be set up correctly for the specific tool
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Re: Tapered ball mill

Postby scottp55 » Wed Feb 21, 2018 5:14 pm

I regularly cut without a roughing pass IF!!!! I carefully inspect the toolpath and only see ONE plunge AND ONE lift!!
If the center of the model is a high spot, I'll do an offset toolpath if the first plunge is .125" or less.
If rastering, I'll ZZero...move the bit up so first plunge is only about .125"...Re-Zero Z...cut a few lines...stop and move Z down in stages until I'm at the original ZZero.
In both those cases, you're only cutting the stepover.
Check the file CAREFULLY though!!!
If for instance the model depth is .5", AND my LOC is .5"....many times I'll change the model height to say .47"...Inspect, and cut away.
I'm a smaller stepover guy though as I hate toolmarks as much as sanding :)
These were all carved with the smallest Chinese TBN with no roughing and medium to pretty dense woods.
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Re: Tapered ball mill

Postby martin54 » Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:47 pm

ger21 - I was aware of possibly omitting the roughing pass but some of my carvings are quite deep - not sure I'd want to push the bit to nearly its DOC - or am I being too conservative?

I have always been way to conservative with my settings so I am the last person to ask but if you feel that omitting the roughing pass is not a good idea with the depth of a particular carving then you could run just part of a roughing pass :lol: :lol:

Toolpath the roughing pass & then run it until you reach a point that you are happy to switch to the finish pass & then stop it, have done that myself a few times once the roughing pass had removed the bulk of the material & I felt I could safely cut the finish pass without breaking the bit :lol: :lol: :lol:

Just make sure the cutting edge of the tool is long enough for the material you have left to remove which it should easily be as TBN bits tend to have quite a long CEL from what I have seen :lol: :lol:
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Re: Tapered ball mill

Postby Xxray » Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:55 pm

Any 3d toolpath will require more time than 2d due to the increased z movement and shear volume of lines in the tap file.

Time saving options are, as ger21 pointed out, skip roughing [I often do this but not recommended for deeper cuts in hard woods]. What specifically are "deep cuts" and "hard wood" ? Well, you learn that from experience and breaking bits. Tapered bits are tough but of course have their limits, skipping roughing carries risks.
Sometimes I compromise and only do, say, 2 roughing passes instead of the calculated 5. Can also calculate toolpath on a 45 angle which *can* greatly reduce the risk of stress and breakage [this only works with an uninterrupted toolpath from top to bottom, often 3d toolpath will jump all over the place then this won't work].

A risk free method to reduce cutting time is increasing line stepover.
For the finest detail you'd want 8 to 13% for a finish pass but you can often jack it up to, say, 15 to 18% without a perceptible difference the naked eye can see.
Go much further than that though, and you will notice a quality difference that gets worse and worse as the % increases.
Sometimes thats fine if you are only doing a rough ball shape or something but if you are doing the last supper, you want max detail regardless of time.

Finally, having quality bit makes a huge difference as to your final product and longevity of the tool.
I tinker with cheap made in china bits occasionally, by and large though I invest in quality tools for predictable, repeatable and quality results.

http://www.precisebits.com/products/car ... 250b4f.asp
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  1. Rspctd

    Improved Equipment Picks

    For all that ended up grinding through the swamp that was ranked, what did you end up spending your bonds on? Obviously, the equipment isn't insane enough to warrant massive changes in tanks but it'd be cool to see what everyone bought. I personally got a rammer and put it on my 113 to mark. Extra DPM is pretty dope I suppose.
  2. Wanderjar

    Basic Equipment layouts

    Current 5/31/18 A basic explanation of Equipment! and obviously, the "Improved Equipment" for bonds is way better. Directives are useful but a one off boost. Unless you play Tier X a lot and earn more than 1 a match, its almost a waste. Run Food instead. Got a tank and you can't decide what to run on it? check out and find your tank on the list and then check out the Equipment tab (its right next to the crew skills tab also mentioned by me ) Gun Laying Drive vs Vertical Stabilizer Always always always Vert stab. 20% against ALL movement penalties. This means smaller bloom on turret moving, smaller bloom on hull rotation, smaller bloom on the move, Smaller chance of a miss overall. If you aren't running a Vert stab, it should be that you can't equip one. ALL scouts/lights can carry a Vstab now so there's no excuse. why start at 1.7x when you can start at 1.27x? It's a much tighter reticle and you still beat the GLD to minimum bloom by .3 sec? Obviously both are best but Rammer - Vstab - Optics are the Trifecta. Gun Laying Drive 10% faster aim in! Generally only useful for snipers and arty. To be used only if a Vstab isn't available AND you are planning to playing a non-peek-a-boom style. Generally not for heavies but sometimes, its what's there. Binocs vs Coated optics. Optics over binocs. simple. The sole practical advantage that bincos have is the free swap out. Bincos give you +25% while stationary for 3 seconds, Optics gives you +10% always. Why optics? because unless you are a TD/SPG/stationary tank with a decent spotting range doing you own spots (like you solo holding a side), you aren't going to be sitting still for very long and if you are like most TD's (not the UDES and above), you are going to have to shift your hull occasionally for shots, which breaks the bonus. Your 'on the move' spotting is the spotting that counts the most in almost every game situation. Whether on initial deployment, or you vs 3 of them in a last stand, chances are you will not be sitting still for long no matter what. The extra 30 yards of spotting on the move can save your life. TL;DR: Binocs when Kemp Boosh! Vents +5% to all crew skills. Only for closed top turrets sadly, but this does stack with BIA and food! Due to the math, it gets figured in as a 2.2% overall increase in direct skill efficiency. (not to be sneezed at!) Gun Rammer 10% faster shell loading times. sadly not for autoloaders. Does what it says on the box . more pew pew, always a good idea! Generally a #1 slot pick Now, class specific equip loads and uses: Heavies! Vstab/GLD - Rammer - Vents. Optics are less a concern here but they have their place in high base VR heavies (T-10, etc) Mediums Vents - Rammer - Optics. This is less a rule of thumb than the other classes. Meds are a widely varied class and the equipment needed varies between vstab/rammer/optics and gld/vents/rammer and can even vary from gun to gun on a single tank. TDs GLD - Rammer - Vents/binocs Lights/scouts Rammer (or vents) - Optics - VStab (for autoloaders or single shot) Vents - Optics/Binocs - camo net (for certain personal missions) SPGs GLD - Rammer - Camo net.... Chemo therapy.... (I kid, I kid) Binocs are a viable option on this class in certain SPGs with good base VR and the potential for clutch shots (like Clan wars) It's worth pointing out that if you are self spotting a target, even if it was initially spotted by someone else, will help to maximize your Exp. Since radio spotting for your dmg splits the EXP between you and the spotter. If you can see it "yourself" you get more exp for hurting it.
  3. This is my setup for it. It fits my playing style of vision control orientated combat. I have not found the lack of repair to be too big of a problem since Bat's track repair speed is very fast. Below are some pointers I gave to rrw that I'll repost here as well. Don't be the one that enemy have attention on i.e. don't stay spotted for extended periods of time, always drop lights after engagement. You're #1 target on the field and you don't want to let them know where you're stuck at so they can rush you.Always have an exit route before you start an engagement. You're a Bat, you get to pick the engagement 99% of the time.You should never drive into a situation, shoot your 5 shots, and say to yourself "shit, now what?". At the end of your 5th shot, shit around you should be dead or you're driving around a corner where they can't chase you.Ideally you don't want to engage your own targets but ones that are looking away or distracted. I do make exceptions when it's key target.At between 350 to 400 meters, you can spot your own target and usually not be spotted while shooting.Stay on the move during reload, especially right after you get a kill, because people will see that you got a kill and try to get you during reload. Use reload time to scout.Relocate as often as possible between clips if that flank doesn't have opportunities. From the view of the enemy, they should see you teleporting all over the map. Your first shot of the clip should be aimed in from stealth - do not start the engagement when people see you and gun pointed at your direction, unless they're hurt tanks of very good players that you need to soak up a shot to take out of the game.Try to track+damage with first shot (shoot front/rear sprockets).Flank as much as possible. You can frontally engage lower tier after they fire, but it's best to flank 10s.Vert stab, Vents, optics.You can peek a boo with this tank (wait til they fire, poke out and unload 2-3 rounds), but it takes a while to master and is not recommended for beginners. Your HP is the most valuable of the team, conserve them as much as possible. It's very tempting to take a hit from an 8 and clip him, and I do it often, but it really should be avoided. You're the most powerful tank at late game where tanks are thin and damaged.Do NOT start a close quarter engagement with a full HP tier 9/10 medium if you have the choice.Most importantly, scout like this: I guess I'll host Bat replays here instead of my replay thread. As mentioned, I'm very heavily camo and vision orientated when playing my Bat, and you'll see that from my replays. These are in chronological orders. 8.9 8.10 8.11 9.0
  4. One more (mini) elimination thread! Main reasons for this thread are the new Swedish heavies - 3 tanks with same crew layout, but you can pick only one of them (tier 6 is so fun right now, it is a genuine keeper). Given enough time (months of crew training, especially regarding lack of good (and suitable) crew trainers, I would like to keep tiers 6&8-10 from swedes, but I am limited to one girl crew I got from holiday ops (soon to have 2, one for tier 6 and one for a heavy. Many other ppl will undoubtedly face the same choice - they can also sell the tier 6, but still have to limit themselves to 1-2 Swedish heavies (or they can go TD line, god forbid ). You can explain the reasons as to which one you can pick and why. Clan war/stronghold viability is also nice to have, but not crucial. Random battle performance (solo/platoon.reasons why) is very important. I understand that those tanks have to rely on gold to do damage in most situations, but I would not like to depend on it - that is regarding tier 9&10 due to tantalizing choice of 252 APCR/300 HEAT. reload of Emil 2 complicates correct ammo choice even more, but again, a whole tier lower, and shells are stronger...just like in Skoda`s case. Old rules apply, you increase the "best" choice by 1 and decrease the "worst" choice by 3. Each user is allowed to do this a maximum of once per day. You must explain your choices, even if very briefly. However, you can give your opinion of a tank you are neither upvoting or downvoting. When a choice hits 0, it is eliminated. I'll keep track of in what order they were eliminated in the OP, and the end result is some form of interactive community aggregate ranking! Pretty neat. Highlight your increase with GREEN and your decrease with RED. Since there is an elimination of only 3 tanks in total, tanks start with 60 points each (arbitrary from my side: but enough so enough ppl can give their opinions). Kranvagn: 60 Emil 2: 60 Emil 1: 60
  5. Hello! I am a new player that has been reading your tips. It is going really well for me. I have ~55 % win rate so it has really helped me! I want to know what equipment I should use on the Panzer III which is a mobile medium tank at tier 4. You can skip the text below if you don't want to read it. I can now afford to buy my first tier 4 tank. I am going to get the Panzer III which looks like a very good medium with nice armor, good mobility and good 5cm gun. I like to play in a platoon with 2 comrades of mine and we all play the German nation with the same tech-tree. We are aiming to all get the Panzer III to be able to play as an effective medium platoon. I have been playing more than my friends so I am a little bit ahead and ready to buy the tank with 75 % crew right now. I will probably spend a lot of time in this tank and I want to upgrade as much as I can (no matter the cost) but I am not sure what equipment I should get. Some people recommend using: - Vents - Gun Laying Drive (GLD) - Gun Rammer But would it not be better to use Coated Optics instead of GLD because view-range is so crucial? People recommend to play this tank as a mobile flanker. The GLD only affects tanks that are stationary... People recommend GLD because the tank shoot fast (24 rounds/min) but has slow (2.3 seconds) aiming time. I have a hard time choosing. I want this tank to be as good as it possibly can be and I think that you can probably give me better advice than other internet people. So please tell me what you would use on a tank like the Panzer III with good mobility and high rate of fire! Thank you very much for all guides and help! And thank you for your reply!
  6. dcmcilrath

    Spall-liner on CDC?

    I'm currently running the standard Vert Stab, Rammer, and Optics. Is it worth it to replace one of these with a spall-liner? If so, which one and why?
  7. I was wondering what equipment to run on this tank, I'm currently using it as a more passive scout because it's too sluggish to dodge and weave like my boy the bulldog, but I would like some other opinions. Currently using binos, rammer, and vents.
  8. Salve, WoTLABS. As the title denotes, I'm wondering what would be the most impactful piece of equipment to mount on my T32 and the peculiar grievances with my available choices. At this moment, I have Rammer/Vert.Stab/Toolbox; stacking 100% Repair Crew + Toolbox + Large Repair Kit for a 135% repair bonus. The competitive options for the T32 are Coated Optics, EGL, and Vents but for solo pub, the former 2 seems to me to oversaturate the already great traits of view range and aim time to the point of useless excess and the latter doesn't seem worth it for the minuscule 5% bonus to the things that I like to improve upon (Driver/Loader skills). That leaves me to put either fuckall equipment or the Toolbox which although is more than likely really redundant, it gives it a sort of flavor and tomato-eqsue satisfaction at having a sub <5 repair speed. So lovely WoTLABS'ers, what changes should I make for my 3rd slot if anything at all for my solo pub adventures? If there's a dilema between competitive equipment and "flavor" equipment, at what point does flavor override competitiveness in terms of the tank characteristics if at all under terms that the tank in question is just used at the pubbie puddle level? Thanks~
  9. So with the current FASTBOIS meta in tier 6 skirmishes what should I focus on for crew skills and equipment? Those that enhance firepower / ability to do damage or those that enhance the spotting ability of light tanks? Oh and add why too!
  10. Squidroid

    T110E5 Equipment

    I'm aware of a post similar to this one existing already, but it was back in 2012/2013, so recent changes in accuracy, nerfs and buffs, as well as the addition of new tanks may make those information obsolete, so I just wanted to create a new post to see what everyone thinks now. I already have a Vertical Stabilizer and Gun Rammer on my T110E5, but I don't know whether Vents or Optics is better nowadays for the 3rd equipment slot. My T110E5 crew is 69% through on their 3rd skill and here's what I have so far: Commander: BIA, 6th sense, repairs Driver: BIA, repairs, clutch breaking Gunner: BIA, repairs, snap shot Loader: BIA, safe stowage, repairs Just wanna know y'all opinions, thanks
  11. Thunderxballs

    Equipment for the AMX 50b

    Very simple, what is the best layout of equipment for the 50b, i plan to use vstab and gld for sure but the question is optics or vents. optics will help later in the game when trying to carry however anything that helps with aim time and mobility (while still partially helping vision) is almost essential on the french heavies.
  12. Nuttydave1234

    A-44, Obj 416, and Obj 430 II

    Having a discussion with another player about equipment for these tanks, when I mentioned that the CO2 Tanks, and Cyclone Filter are an option for this tank. This is due to them being Russian, and having rear mounted turrets. I have not played any of these tanks, so my word is just speculation. Based of my playing of the SU100M1, and SU-101. So my question to you, am I utterly stupid for saying that CO2 tanks and Cyclone Filters are viable choices for this tanks. Equipment would look something along the lines of; Vert, Rammer, CO2 or Vert, Rammer, Cyclone. Also, new to this Forums, so not sure if this is in the correct location.
  13. As I'm about to start the grind in both the french heavy line and T57 Heavy line I'd like to understand better the mystical world of autoloaders. I don't want simply to know what to do, I want to understand why I should do it, so I'd like to talk in depth about this with you good players as all alone I can't figure it out since I'm basically still a noob, much more so in the field of autoloading which is totally obscure to me. I'm reading all the guides I can find about the tanks of this two lines and other autoloading vehicles and I find this kind of words quite often: "as third piece of equipment many players prefer optics for pubs while vents for companies/platoons or organized play in general" So, first thing: the fist two pieces are vstab and gld in almost every case right? When is this not true and why? Is the aim time in autoloaders so bad that you have to use gld? For all autoloaders, even the less campy ones and the ones that do best at close range? Does the Bat Chat drop gld to have both vents and optics? Why? Other tanks in such this situation o that differs from the general line? I've seen/read some guides that state that you can go with vstab+vents+optics and leave gld out in most cases, like all the french heavies. Is this correct or wrong? Even if the aim time in these tanks is higher than the shell reload time? Is it because maybe are these guides and reviews done before the accuracy nerf that rewards full aiming? Now the proper question: is the matter that simple? Optics when playing alone and vents when you can count on the team or at least someone else? I understand why optics are useful, especially in the end games situations, when you have to spot your own target as soon as possible but still vents are used far far more often (as for vbaddict) than optics. Is this because it's the only way to reduce the reload on autoloaders? I read some time ago that vents on autoloaders are almost mandatory, but I can't find the source so it could be some tomato randomly talking on some forum... Isn't the reload time gain so little with vents to feel inexistent? (I only talk looking at numbers of course, so I don't have the feels, that's why I'm asking you guys.) I mean, the 50 100 has such a long reload that vents lower it down by more that 1 second, but is obviously a relative gain, is 1 second important when you have to wait 48/49 seconds anyway? And on thing like the T57 H which has only less than 25 seconds reload (btw isn't this a little too op?) isn't the gain too little to be any useful in a real situation and not only in theory? Why vents are so universally praised? But, I know, the game is not only equipments, there are also skills. As we know, with skills you can improve your view range much more than you can lower the reload. So is this a metter of crew skills? Is the view range gain given by situational awareness, recon and BiA enough to make optics less useful? On a 400 m base (as lots of autoloaders) the gain given by those skills is 30 m (30 with T57 and 31.3 with 50 B, why? Because of the 5% commander bonus on the radio operator that the 50 B has and the T57 H doesen't?), as for the auto values calculator of tank inspector (if it's wrong, please point it out). If you have this skills the additional gain is an inch more than 10 m with vents and and inch less than 41 m with optics for a total of around 440 m and 471 m respectively (if you don't have those skill is + 8,6 for vents and +40 for optics, but I guess you have at that point). As for the reload time, BiA and vents helps in almost the same way so having both is a nice addon (more or less like having double vents?), but I see a lot of people summing the bonus given by BiA only when there's vents in the equation. It's not "no reload bonus because of optics" vs "reload bonus by vents + reload bonus by BiA" because you have BiA anyway (or you should) but is "reload bonus by BiA only" vs "reload bonus by vents + reload bonus by BiA". The difference given by the stacking of the crew % increase is abysmal. So my question are: is 440 m view range and more or less + 2,15% (the actual stats increase given by vents) in other stats enough better than the 400 m base to renounce other 30 m? Is 470 m view range so much better and useful than 440 m to renounce an improvement of 2,15% in other stats like reload time, accuracy, aim time, etc.? Is 2,15%, even though in various stats, worth one of the only 3 equipment slots? What about the food? If at this skills you add the effect of food you gain more or less a 4,5% improvement in the affected stats. This gives you +20/22 m view range, having more than 460 m with vents and more than 490 m with optics. The gain given by the food is effectively more than the double of the one given by the vents, the reload on the T57 H and the 50 B gets lowered by more than 1 second, on the 50 100 by 1,9 seconds. Food, like BiA should be thinked as a constant in both cases because tecnically you don't renounce food to have one among optics and vents. Food is costly but I'm now talking of battle efficiency only, the "is it woth the bleeding of credits" part comes later. Now we have still 30 m difference (a little more actually) but relatively speaking a lesser difference between the two choices. So with food as a constant, same questions as before, with new numbers: is 460 m view range and more or less + 2,15% in other stats enough better than the 400 m base to renounce other 30 m? Is 490 m view range so much better and useful than 460 m to renounce an improvement of 2,15% in other stats? As for all other stats I guess that you want to have as better view range as possible, but how much view range "is enough" to sacrifice the eventual excess to gain that + 2,15% in other stats? Is using food a good idea in autoloaders? Is the performance gain worth those credits? O are other equipments too important is these tanks to use food? This is more a personal preference, right? I honestly think that I'm missing something, if you know what it is please tell. I'll go dine so maybe I'll figure it out, I'll try to edit the post in the case. I'd like to talk in depth of this because I need to understand the game, I can't fully enjoy a game I don't understand it...
  14. And was wondering what I should I put as far as equipment? My first thoughts are..Gun laying drive,Vents and Vertical Stabilizer? And the skills should be about the same as most heavy's right? Its fully upgraded and its my first I'm also getting used to the playstyle as well..I'm used to single shot tanks..and I've died a few times ...any tips on that?
  15. YT4LYFE

    Bat.-Châtillon 155 58 Equipment

    At the moment I run: EGLD - obvious choice. helps aim time. Camo Net - helps me stay invisible in fairly aggressive positions Binocs - weird choice because I don't know what else to put on I can't run Vents because it's 'open top' and can't run Rammer because autoloader. The only other viable choice (in my opinion) is the Medium Spall Liner because helps if someone is trying to counter me or ram me. However it will make me slower, which partially negates the point of Batchat Arty. I'm probably gonna get laughed at for using binocs but it did come in useful a couple of times when I was left alone to reset cap or unable to leave concealment without getting spotted. So yea. Spall Liner, Binocs, or something else? What do you guys run? Thanks,
  16. A question here. Ive read Garbad´s thread about the right set up for different tanks. Usually I run my T29 with vertstab (obviously), rammer and optics. (as suggested on the thread). This set up maximizes view range (that gets better with situational awareness on my radioman and BiA). BUT... T29 is more a close combat brawler than a sniper, the gun is powerful but accuracy is not as good as the Tiger´s. Since I find myself pretty often in urban or close range situations I think faster aiming is a choice, then I decided to switch optics for a GLD. I find this set up kind of logical to me. On the other hand optics may be a choice when the battles goes longer and there are a few tanks on the field, then spotting the enemy becomes mandatory, to place your bullet or to avoid that long distance nuclear blast that in many cases makes the difference between Victory or defeat. Any purple Guru willing to give this novice any advice??
  17. Slayer_Jesse

    M22 Locust Equipment Set Up.

    Hey! I have a locust, and I love it to bits. Its a fun little machine, and wicked fast in a straight line. In a tier 3, and lesser degree, tier 4 match, I'll be pretty aggressive in it. Active scouting, circling enemy tanks. (Well I guess strafing is more accurate, as I try not to turn unless needed due to speed bleed.) In tier 5, the APCR can't hurt heavies from point blank unless I get very accurate weakpoint shots. So Instead I'll passive scout. My current loadout, given this: Camo net Coated Optics Binos I know coated and binos don't stack. I use optics to active scout, but the range isn't long enough in tier 5 to do this safely, hence the binos. I'll sometimes drop binos for vents. Suggestions? I'm leaning towards keeping camo net, because IMO the stupidly high camo on this thing is one of its selling points. (I use a T71 crew with 6th sense, snapshot/smooth ride, and camo.)
  18. Quantumkiwi

    Jagdtiger, what to do?

    Sooo, I just bought the JT and have so far got the engine and tracks. I was wondering what sort of crew and equipment all you guys run?
  19. Nicook5

    E-100 equipment

    So the E-100 confuses me, I have never felt so hung up about equipment choices on any other tank. Generally I favor Optiks thrid slot, but I was like hold up, a manly tank doesn't need to see far away. Just needs to punch things in the face. Figured if I start doing CW where others spot optics will probably be suboptimal as well. I discount GLD because I don't think the difference is significant enough and I'm either aiming down completely or snapshotting anywho. I picked up vents off the bat cause I felt bad with zero view range boost, but I know the boost is minimal so I feel bad with vents too. I'm switching to spall liner to try it out, cause 183s and arty and other shit shooting he while sidescraping is a bitch (haven't tried spall yet). My gut tells me that after my brief stint with vents I should either go optiks or spall liner. Will decide after I "test"(play a few games with it and randomly decide I prefer x) spall liner. Pretty sure ill revert to not-manly optics after people tell me to feel bad for using spall liner :c Included a poll since I've noticed people seem to choose widely different junk, or I'm crazy. Answer will be in shortly. Might do that fancy wr/wn8 avg per answer stuff after if I'm feeling not lazy and there isn't an obvious favorite.
  20. After reading most of the stuff here and there I decided to try and write a guide myself. Mostly taken from others and my experience. If you make a valid point I gladly change it. After a while, I'd like to post it on official forums. There are some simplifications in mechanics so I hope I didn't write something too misleading. I slightly omit scouts and SPGs, because I don't play them much. And my formatting kind of sucks, I'll change it. GUIDE: This guide is meant for beginner players. Some mechanics are heavilly simplified but should suffice until reaching certain expertise. You can get to more detailed guides on particular topics. I list other guides at some sections which provide more detailed information. So you started this new brand game and want to shoot and kill things, because what is more fun than moving in a 40ton monster shooting stuff? You probably have some experience in Call of Duty, Battlefield and such. Good, you know the basic concepts of competitive gaming. But they seem to not work in this game ( Well you are at the right place. These are the basics. The goal of the game - kill enemy team/capture enemy base - killing enemy is preferred, but sometimes not that safe ( Firing You aim at your target, you press mouse - gun fires, seems simple doesn't it? In fact there is more to it. First is your reticule, the smaller it is the better - that circle you see is possible deviation of shell from the cross in the middle. Shot will most likely go to mid of your reticule, but sometimes it does not. Generally anything that is inside that circle can be hit and even sometimes things outside. If you don't move or move your reticule, it will start getting smaller - your gunner is aiming. At some point it stays still - it means your shot is most accurate it can be for now - with longer distance, chances of missing are greater. Also bear in mind that in third person view you see more than in sniper view --> use sniper view for firing (shift changes modes in default or you can use mouse wheel to zoom). Game calculates distance instead of you, it is easier than in real tanks. Penetrating enemies Ok, so you were lucky, you aimed well and shot goes off, you hit and nothing happened. Here comes to play the penetration of your shell, thickness of enemy armor and of course angle of enemy armor. You only penetrate when your penetration is higher than armor of your opponent. But there is more to it - angle of enemy armor increases its effectiveness and distance reduces penetration of your shell. When you put your aiming circle on enemy it goes either red, yellow or green - this show chance of penetrating. Red - unlikely, yellow - there is a chance, green - very likely. But... there is always some but. This colour does not take into account angle of his armor or distance. Enemy armor Armor is listed as a value in milimeters - starts around 20-30 at tier 1 tanks up to 300 at tier 10 tanks. In the garage you can see those values for front, sides and back of your tanks and their turrets, but... There are weakpoints - for example commanders cupola at the top of the turret (not tower) is generally a weakspot. Also lower frontal plate - that small place between tracks on the lower front of tank is usualy a weakspot (there are of course exceptions to this). So for your beginner's aiming you are ok with this sequence of weak spots. Back of the tank<side of the tank<lower frontal plate<commanders cupola<front of tank. Everytime you can't penetrate a tank I suggest that after battle you run Google and search for "'tank I had problems with' weak spots". You get a lot of images showing needed weakspots and are usually accurate enough. Camouflage/spotting ( How did I get hit, I can't see anyone shooting at me! That is a typical situation involving spotting and camouflage. You can be spotted at a range around 250-300 metres. Each tank has its own range of visibility as well as a camouflage value. With higher tiers the spotting range increases up to 445 metres(that is maximumum game limit). While spotting range increases ability to see further, camouflage negates this. It is very similar to penetration/armor thickness. When you are spotted, you stay spotted for 5-10 seconds if you manage to hide. Seems easy, well there is of course another but. Behind buildings you can't be seen from that direction. And behind bushes you get camouflage bonus - more bushes means more bonus. But... if you fire your gun, your camouflage value drops and bonus from bushes is negated. So shoot wisely - if you can't hit reliably mind your trigger. So camouflage is: stationary>moving>firing vehicles. Radio When you spot enemy, you also broadcast his position to your nearby teammates - this range is determined by theirs and your radio signal range. These values summed together give a communication distance to your teammate. If you are further, he won't be able to see your tagets and you won't see his targets. Even you won't know his position on map (as well as he won't see you). Draw distance Even if you should know position of your enemy, you may not see him. This is due to draw distance. You can only see enemies in a box around your tank that has a side of 1000m - it means seeing tanks 500m vertically or horizontally, diagonally you can see tanks 707m far. Drawing distance in graphics options does not influence this, you will always see all allowed tanks. My Armor ( You now know how to see enemies and how to hit them. But you need to ensure they won't hit you. Here comes the basic equation presented by CrabEatOff. camo/draw > exposure > armor > first strike > hp From best defence on the left to the worst on the right. So best is not to be seen at all, if you are, it is good to be behind something solid. If you get hit, your armor should handle it. If not at least give him more damage than he is giving to you. I just skip to the situation when you see neemy, he sees you and you know he will fire. You just have few seconds to prepare for it. If you know he can't penetrate you, you are ok, but you can never be sure. Basic thing you can do is hide behind solid object - house, hill, corpse of tank. If you can't you should at least angle your tank and thus increasing your armor. Angle depends on thickness of your frontal/side armor. Generally it is best around 25 degrees (0 degrees is straight to your enemy) - sometimes caled sidescraping. Better solution is to hide behind a hill so that only your turret sticks out - hull down position. Also if you wiggle a bit (move right and left and move your turret too), it makes enemy aiming and penetrating you more difficult. Lert wrote a nice guide about most these topics ( Tank selection( There are 5 tank types. Light tanks - fast, weak, low damage. You start with them, then you can choose another branch. In higher tiers some are flagged as scouts and get harder matchmaking (they meet more powerful tanks) because their purpose is to scout and find enemies. I suggest WoT wiki for finding those. They are hard to play so it is wise to avoid scout tanks at the beginning. Advantage of scout tanks is high view range and their moving and stationary camouflage is the same. Medium tanks - fairly mobile, medium damage, good accuracy on the move, tougher than lights. They are best for fast movement and unexpected attacks and also have good camouflage values. There are exceptions to this. Heavy tanks - slow, well armored with guns packing a nice punch. They are probably most forgiving for beginners and you can find some fast ones too - e.g. Chinese and French line. their biggest issue is speed and are big, so are often bothered by artillery. Tank destroyers - they pack the biggest punch in the game (often gun mounted on tanks tier higher), have best camouflage. Usually they are either fast or well armored. Artillery(SPG) - artillery fires with ballistic curve and is used for support fire mostly. It fires mostly HE shells and is weak itself. Try them to get the idea but I suggest playing other tanks at the beginning. Modules Tank is composed of modules, where some of them can be upgraded to better ones - namely turret, gun, tracks, engine, radio. Not every upgrade is possible for every tank. Like tanks modules are divided into tiers, but higher tier is not always better than lower tier. Some modules are used on multiple tanks, so when you research it on one, it can be used on other. Tracks - increase turning and running speed and increase carry weight - can be seen at top right corner as a number 36,5/37,2 for example showing your tank weighs 36,5 tons out of 37.2 possible tons (metric tons - 1t has 1000kg) Engines - increase acceleration and sometimes lower chances of fire. Value is in horsepower - hp. Turrets - increase hps of tank, view range, sometimes armor and ability to mount better guns. Sometimes they allow faster firing speed. Guns - influence penetration, damage, rate of fire, accuracy, aim time. Each gun has totally different statistics and needs a bit of evaluating. Penetration and damage are the most important, but other values have a huge impact too. Higher tier gun is not always better than lower tier. Ammo ( There are several types of ammo. There are 4 types AP - standard armor piercing ammo used to hit tanks. HE - high explosive used to hit weak targets, provide fire support. Generally penetration on this ammo is lower and gun caliber influences ability to do damage (152mm gun is more effective than 105mm gun), damage mechanics is completely different and a bit complicated. HEAT - high explosive anti tank, they cost gold or more money to fire them, you can change this in the service section. But they have better penetration than AP. APCR - armor piercing composite rigid, they also usually cost gold and have more penetration than AP, but have a slightly different penetration mechanics (they handle better angled armor than HEAT shells). You can consider them same as HEAT for starting purposes. Carrying few HEAT/APCR (around 5), sometimes referred as gold shells, is a good idea unless you plan to change your gun/tank very quickly. They help with harder targets. Tank crew Most tanks have its crew composed of Commander, Driver, Gunner, Loader, Radio operator. Some tanks miss radio operator (then some other crewmember has 2 specializations) or other crew members (e.g. ELC AMX has only Commander and Driver, where Commander is Gunner, Radio operator and Loader too) while some have more Loaders - usually SPGs and big tank destroyers. High tier modern tanks tend to have 4 crew members (without Radio operator). Your crew gets more experienced by getting experience. When you hire new crew/retrain other crew form other tanks you can train them for credits/gold. For 20K credits per member he can be trained to 75% basic skill (For 200 gold to 100%) or more if he is more experienced. The game will show you preview what happens after training. Basic skill influences reload speed, aiming, driving speed, view range. It is very vital to get it to 100% fast as possible. After getting to 100% basic skill level your crew can get another skills - you can select them and for credits/gold even change them. Training is sometimes discounted by Wargaming. Crew skills I list general first skills for each tank type, decision is influenced by playstyle. As soon as you get first skills to 100% you can choose another skill up to 5 skills per crewmember. As soon as your commander has his first skill at 100% it is very vital to retrain his skill to Sixth sense (applies to every tank). Sixth sense tells you when you are spotted by enemy. Sixth sense is a perk - it means it only works at 100%, while skills (repairs, camouflage, fire fighting etc.) work at any level (30, 60%). There are more perks, but this one is most notable. Scout tanks - 1.camouflage,2.driving skills/view range skills Medium tanks - 1.camoflage/repairs,2.gunnery skills/driving skills Heavy tanks - 1.repairs Tank destroyers - 1.camouflage Artillery(SPG) - 1.camouflage Crew moving You can use one crew in another tank if they have the same nationality. But if they drive improper tank their effectiveness is lower. Also when driving another tank type, it is lower (they are T57 Heavy crew driving Hellcat). Exception are premium tanks, where you can use any crew of the same tank type without penalties (like T57 Heavy crew in T14 premium tank). Also if your tank is elite (has all modules and tanks researched), don't forget to check "Accelerate crew training" in top left corner above commander to increase crew training speed - this doubles experience on one of the crewmembers (one which has the least experience). Tank equipment Most tanks get benefit from Rammer - increases firing speed. But you can't move it to another tank unless you spend 10 gold - which is very cheap and should be used. Other good equipment is Binocular telescope (25% increased view range) and Camouflage net (bonus to your camouflage value) - they both work only when stationary for 3 secs, but can be moved from tank to tank in garage freely. If you don't have enough cash a pair of these greatly helps you in battle. Wargaming gives discounts on modules, so I suggest getting 2-3 pairs of these when 50% off and swapping them on tanks. Later you will used specialized equipment on each tank, but at start you are low on cash. General optimal tank setups listed below. Each tank can be played differently and some benefit more from different setups. These are only general setups that will work most of time. Note that vertical stabilizer is available around tier 7-8 and is considered better option to gun laying drive. Some tanks, namely autoloaders benefit from having both and they can't usually mount rammer. Scout - Coated optics, ventilation, camouflage net/rammer - depends if you shoot or focus on spotting Medium - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation Heavy - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation/spall liner on really heavy tanks Tank Destroyer - Gun rammer, gun laying drive, coated optics/camouflage net/binoculars Artillery - Gun rammer, Gun laying drive (improves aim speed), camouflage net Consumables Tank can carry 3 consumables, they are chosen in service section. Basic setup for most tanks is repair kit, med kit and fire extinguisher. All of these have advanced variants that heal all crewmembers, repairs all modules all extinguish fire automatically. They also give a nice flat bonus even if used. But they are more expensive. Another option is to use food - gives flat boost to whole crew and is used each battle or fuel that increases vehicle speed and turret rotation speed. For starting I suggest getting basic repair kit,fire extinguisher and med kit. They can be freely moved between tanks. Good option is to buy them in advance during discounts (button store at the left above tank). Using consumables is recommended at tier 4+. In lower tiers the outcome of battle usually doesn't net enough credits to pay for them. But you can carry them for safety reasons. Positioning ( This is the most difficult part - you can find guides for each map in many guides. Generally try not to move alone. Also bear in mind your role. You should keep some type of cover nearby, hard cover preferably and also being behind a bush. Don't stick too to another player, you may block his exit route or spot him. Don't die first. Try to surprise your enemy and attack from different spots. The more early you get your gun to play the better, but dying too fast is not good. Your aim should be to do the same amount of damage your tank has hitpoints(it is around 3-5 shots a game). Later you can add up. If you are moving in open terrain, try to use valleys - even a small bump in terrain can save you. Suggestion on tanks good for beginners - in terms of teaching specific mechanics Russian Heavy line - KV1 and so on, lessons in sidescraping, heavy tank use American Heavy line - T29 and so on, lessons in hull down American TD line - T49, Hellcat - lessons on camouflage, not being spotted American autoloader line - T71, T69, scout lessons, autoloader lessons, tier 7+ is great but 5 and 6 are not that friendly German Heavy line - Tiger - lessons in sidescraping American medium - vision control, hull down Russian medium line - T34 - fast firing and flanking These are currently considered decent tanks for 2 most important end game tiers. Every tank has its strong points and weaknesess and heavilly depends on playstyle. These are merely suggestions. I listed mediums and heavy tanks mostly. Good lines of tanks for tier 8 American medium - Pershing, T69 Russian medium - T-44 Russian heavy - IS-3 Chinese heavy - 110 German TDs - both lines, JGPII, Rhm. Borsig French heavy - AMX 50 100 Good lines of tanks for tier 10 American autoladers - T57 Heavy American heavy - T110E5 German TDs - WT E100 German Heavy - E100 Russian medium - Object 140, T62A French medium - light/medium line ending in Batchat French heavy - AMX 50B Russian TDs So for good learning experience and also end game tanks I suggest these tank lines: American Heavy - T110E5 line Russian medium - Object 140 line German TDs - WT E 100 line American autoloader line - I suggest get some experience first, there are scout tanks( French medium/hard - hard to master, but offer a different playstyle Sources of other information about WoT General hints ( Stick to the tank you are comfortable with, if you jump from one to another your performance will suffer. Don't be afraid to experiment a bit. Keep your T1 crew in barracks and put it to T4-5 tank to save on expenses. Good learning tier is 6-7, you can make mistakes without huge punishements, but you won't learn bad habits. Point of the game is not getting Tier 10 vehicle, each higher tier faces harder oposition with better players. Purchasing a higher tank will not make you more powerful( Weekends usually offers some discount so wait for them. Fulfilling missions (top left corner in garage) can net you some nice credits. Short hints ( 0) Have fun 1) Don't shoot your teammates, if you manage to hit them, apology should be made. 2) Don't sit in the open. 3) Ramming your teammates is rude and can spoil their aim/camo/binocular telescope 4) Have a plan for everything 5) If you are spotted, move 6) Surprise your enemy 7) Think before shooting - will it penetrate, is it worth resetting my camouflage? 8 ) Watch the minimap - this is very important to see the tactical stiuation. +- keys next to 0 key modify size, make it big enough to see exact positions of enemies/friendlies 9) Don't be rude, there is often player that makes you angry. If you respond you are getting yourself to his level, you don't need that. 10) Check for good support and plenty of more detailed guides 11) If you are willing to get better and admit you can improve, you are on a good way. 12) If your base is captured it is you who must go defend it, noone else will do that. 13) Keep your gun in play. 99) Fun is forbidden, stats are what counts
  21. I've greatly enjoyed its predecessedors, the T69 and especially the T54E1. As I had the T57 Heavy already researched now for a while I bought it during the current sale (on EUW). How would you skill a 3.5 skills crew? I thought about: Commander: BIA, 6th Sense, Repair, x? (x=recon?) Gunner: BIA, Repair, designated target?, snap shot?, deadeye? Driver: BIA, clutch braking, repair. offroad? smooth ride? Loader: BIA, safe stowage, repair. camo? fire fighting? Along with: vert, gld, vents Thanks so much in advance!
  22. First of all, I discovered this forum yesterday and already read and learned a ton. Thanks so much everyone of you. BTT: I am not a 100% sure about my crew's skills and the equipment for the T69. Equipment reads as follows: Vertical Stabilizer, GLD, Vents (should i switch Vents with optics?) My crew is at 75% of the 3rd skill and picked so far are: Commander: BIA, Sixth Sense, Sit Aw. Gunner: BIA, Snap Shot, Rep Driver: BIA, Smooth Ride, Clutch Loader: BIA, Rep, Camo Are these skills well picked? I have often read that most(?) of you prefer Off Road over Smooth Ride, is this the case for the T69 as well? One last thing: My perception is that a T69 does not catch fire often . Would it then be better to switch extinguisher with a large rep kit? Would cola be even better? Thank you so much in advance!


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Importance of choosing a save folder (Full Version)

All Forums >> [Product Forums] >> [Productivity Software] >> The Print Shop 4.0

TMLFAN4LIFE -> Importance of choosing a save folder (3/24/2017 11:53:29 AM)

Many people who use a computer sometimes choose to save their documents to the desktop. It's a pretty handy place to find anything. But what happens to those documents when you clean your desktop one day and find it's not there the next?

The same idea can be thought of with The Print Shop 4.0

While The Print Shop 4.0 allows you to save your files anywhere, it is suggested to avoid the desktop. When you choose to open a project from within the interface, all of your projects you worked on are there. So deleting them from the desktop = removal of the project files you were working on from the gallery. Not cool, right?

By default, The Print Shop 4.0 saves to the Documents folder as outlined in this image example. You may choose to save it to another folder, but likewise, avoid saving to the desktop [:)]

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depiction of fog layers in X-Plane 11

depiction of fog layers in X-Plane 11

Postby Thomas_Horn » Wed Aug 22, 2018 11:24 am

just finished a flight to Bowerman airport (KHQM) with my rusty Bonanza in X-Plane 11 and FSGRW as the weather program.
What I noticed on the final approach was, that the airport was clearly visible from about 1000 ft AGL (although there where clouds around), but when descending further, the airplane was completely flying in fog, as reported by local ATIS, and I hardly managed to land after reaching minimums at 216 ft.

So - why can I see the airport from 1000ft AGL while I cannot see it from 500 ft AGL...? Is this a bug in the weather depiction of X-Plane...?
X-Plane 11.25, Windows 10, 4.8 GHz 7700K, 16 GB RAM. 4K 55'' Screen resolution with Nvidia GTX 1070
Posts: 65
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2015 3:18 am

Re: depiction of fog layers in X-Plane 11

Postby FDXDave » Thu Aug 23, 2018 6:29 am

It's a bug. They should be releasing a fix for that in 3.0 if i remember right.
This was a live stream of LR and this bug was discussed. I don't remember if it was pt 1 or pt 2 though.
But i do remember them saying that soon if you are flying over broken layer of clouds you will be able to see the runway through the holes in the clouds. They are redrawing how the layers are done.

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Puck Legend

~~New ~~ Roto - 14 Team / Limited- Keeper / Fantrax

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Recruiting for a new 14 team ROTO limited-keeper fantasy hockey league. I am seeking very strong, patient, mature, engaged owners to join this new start-up league. It's a roto style season-long grind and takes proper skill, care and patience to manage a roto hockey team. I'm not looking for a beginner or casual fan. I want owners who are highly engaged in building and managing a fantasy hockey team year-round. Experienced owners.
Have a great year?? Good keep your limited amount of players, show of your skill, redraft another solid team and do it again!
Had a rough year?? No worries, unlike a dynasty league, its very easy to fix a bad year, keep your limited amount of players, and re-draft a better team than the previous year!
Teams are 7 NHL American named teams and 7  NHL Canadian named teams. = 14 teams in total
League info:
Fantrax Treasury
$65.72  ( Fantrax Treasury )
Daily lineups
Keep 6 Pro Players + up to 15 Prospects
FO%, SH%, G, A, Pts, +/-, Hits, Blocks, TOI/G
W, Svs, Sv%, GAA, SO
7 reserve
15 prospects
unlimited I.R.
Initial draft is 39 rounds - includes both Pro and Prospect players.
Random order draft.
8 hour limits per pick, with overnight clock stop for sleeping hours.
I have a full google doc. page with all league rule policies.  Request more info at my email.

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