Elephantine decor, culinary feats of daring  Brasa When Brasa
opened almost a decade ago, the trend for chefs starting their
own restaurants was to go big and flashy; the phrase "bread and
circuses" became all-important. The sweeps of rich taupe inside
Brasa and the wraparound gallery of tables overlooking the main
dining room create a stadium-like venue within the glowing
space, where everyone seems like they need to see and be seen.
(If you order just right, maybe the balcony will clap for you.)
Tamara Murphy's food, however, looks and tastes like some of the
best comfort fare you'll find as you roam among the relaxed
promenades of Madrid or Barcelona. In the center ring of the
dining room, entrées, like star performers, come from various
backgrounds, including French and Italian. But in the bar menu
Murphy embraces the flavors and nuances of Spain. At the bar's
happy hour, a screaming deal at 50 percent off, you sometimes
feel like you're being fed among the animals. MAGGIE
DUTTONServes: dinner. 2107 Third