Edition: U.S. / Global  Flavors of Mexico  Published: January 8,
1999  With week after week of winter ahead, here's an
opportunity to head south of the border to 12 of New York's
improving group of Mexican restaurants. (These summaries,
written by Eric Asimov, are taken from Ruth Reichl's and Mr.
Asimov's restaurant reviews, columns and articles in The Times.)
1. Los Dos Rancheros    (212) 868-7780  507 Ninth Avenue, at
38th Street   $ Cash only  This unpretentious restaurant would
seem just as comfortable in Puebla, Mexico, as on Ninth Avenue
in Manhattan. The jukebox and the menu are in Spanish, the first
and sometimes only language of the staff, and it caters largely
to Mexican workers in the garment district. All of which
explains the authenticity of such dishes as pipian con pollo,
tender pieces of chicken in a fiery green sauce made with
chilies, tomatillos and toasted pumpkin seeds, and pollo con
mole poblano, a deep rich sauce tasting of chocolate, chili and
smoke. Los Dos Rancheros also serves fine