Libya's volunteer peacekeepers  In the pre-dawn blackness of
September 12, I hurtled toward Tunis Carthage airport en route
to Tripoli. I was looking forward to seeing my friend Chris
Stevens, the U.S. ambassador who had invited all nine members in
our delegation representing the International Crisis Group (ICG)
and the Canadian government to his home for a Saturday night
reception to talk about Libya's turbulent transition.  The high-
speed Tunisian taxi driver, who doubles as a freelance currency
trader, told me, "More Libyans are coming every day. I'm making
lots of money. It's getting worse." I thought for a minute about
his unscientific sample and wondered, "How bad is it?" At
Tunisian customs, I was all alone. The immigration official
spent too much time half-heartedly scrutinizing my passport,
then looked up and said, "You came in yesterday?" "Yes," I
replied. "It was not a good day for you."  "Why?" I asked. He
hesitated, then mumbled, eyes downcast, "It was 11 September." 
He glanced up and returned m