Moroccan meatballs  Moroccan feast: The meal would have been
enough even without Moroccan meatballs, above, with the slowly
unrolling flavor of liver. (Bill Hogan/Chicago Tribune)  FEZ,
Morocco — Morocco had not yet invited us in.  We were two
Americans traveling through Morocco, no tour, no guide, my
daughter Zoe and me in the back seat of a wild-man driver who
aimed to pass every car in front of us for the nine hours from
Marrakech to Fez. He swerved, he sped, he called it magnificent
driving. "Driving safe is like art," he bragged. "You know? Like
painting."  We slid down low in the rear seat and, thanks to
Zoe's iPod and episodes of "This American Life," sweated out the
ride.  Landing in a city with no discernible center of town,
where the main roads were slivered like alleys and the alleys
were nothing but halved sidewalks, we dodged stray cats and
clusters of smokers with live rabbits for sale. We took refuge
in doorways when scooters fumed by.  This made it all the more
unusual, and so all the more upl