Hap's Real Pit BBQ, 101 South 24th Street, Phoenix, 267-0181.
Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Friday, 10:30 a.m. to 8
p.m.; Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closed Sunday.  American
pork producers have spent a fortune promoting their product as
"the other white meat." If you believe the advertising, pork is
chicken without the feathers--low-fat, nutrient-rich and
healthful. After contemplating their message, credulous
consumers may be forgiven for wondering why doctors don't simply
hand all their patients a couple of pork chops with the advice,
"Take two and call me in the morning." I suppose it's possible
that pork can be the key to a long, vibrant life. But not the
way I like the meat. I love barbecued ribs, smoked to
carcinogenic levels and slathered with sauce. Craving ribs is
one thing. Finding good ones is another. Urban folklore suggests
that the best ribs come out of run-down shacks, perched in the
least scenic parts of town. If my latest tour of Valley barbecue
dens is any indicator, urban fol