Travel Nav  A lonesome rabbi in a long black coat walks along
Kazimierz's quiet streets bordered by brick walls paled pink by
age. Founded in 1335 as an independent town, Kazimierz became
home to Kraków's Jews after their expulsion from the main city
in 1494. Today, it's imbued with an odd silence: a legacy of the
extermination of the city's Jewish population under the Nazis.
Before the war 60,000 Jews lived here; now, there are barely
200.  The 16th-century Remuh Synagogue (ul Szeroka 40;
00-48-12-429-5735) is the only active synagogue left in Kraków
and its cemetery contains row upon row of tombstones inscribed
in Hebrew, carefully restored after Nazi damage. Adam Libon, the
synagogue's caretaker, tells me about his father, a 16-year-old
Jew at the start of World War II - he was taken to three
concentration camps before being rescued by factory owner Oskar
Schindler, who took Jan to work in his Kraków enamelware
factory. Jan survived, dying three years ago, aged 84. 'It is
very sad that so many people had t