Tuesday, February 19, 2008  Shin Chon Garden: Korean in Ellicott
City  (UPDATE 7/29/2008: Shin Chon has renovated and reopened.) 
When I have to wait in line, I figure that a place serves good
food, and the trick is learning what part of the menu draws
everyone inside.  At Shin Chon Garden, I stood outside in the
cold on my first visit. Families spilled out of the front door,
and we had to work our way into even the entryway. Since then, I
have never waited more than a few minutes for a table, but I
still feel fortunate when I get inside and get my seat. It's an
energetic place. Full of people, most who appear Korean.
Outfitted with utilitarian tables and some basic decorations
that split Shin Chon into a few separate spaces. Overseen by
televisions playing what looks like Korean cable news. (The
morning news from Seoul sometimes plays over dinner in Ellicott
City.)  If you can, go with someone who knows Korean food. Most
tables are laden by family-style feasts where people are
grilling meat, spooning out st