Ireland's great lakes  The Lakelands region with its loughs,
rivers and waterways offers visitors a route less-travelled
through Ireland's green centre Fishing on Lough Rynn Fishing on
Lough Rynn Photograph: Stephen Pennells/Photographer  Waking up
on the banks of Killinure Lough, the first thing that hits you
is the silence. There's no rumble of commuter traffic, only the
splish-splash of waves lapping at the shore. Outside there's
nobody, and the air tastes fresh and clean. It's a misty
morning, and the lake seems to stretch on forever. Who cares if
it's raining? This is Ireland, after all.  Like many visitors to
Ireland, I've been to Dublin and the west coast, but I've never
been anywhere in between, and locals say the best way to see the
centre is to take a trip up the River Shannon. So that's why
I've come to this tranquil hotel (and gourmet restaurant) right
beside Ireland's biggest river. Welcome to the Irish Lakelands.
I'm staying at the Wineport Lodge. As early as the 6th century,
boats would dock h