Serious Eats: New York  The Vegetarian Option: Spring Street
Natural   [Photographs: Howard Walfish]   The daily specials
include two soups, which on the day of my visit were both
vegetarian. I chose the minestrone ($6), made with a vegetarian
tomato-based broth. It's ideal comfort food for winter, chock
full of vegetables like kale, carrots, and celery, not to
mention two kinds of beans: chickpeas and white.   There are
several specials available for lunch; one offering on my visit
was a Vegetarian Gyro ($12). Instead of lamb there are chunks of
seitan seasoned with spices like cumin and oregano. When topped
with tzatziki sauce and served on a warm pita-like wrap, it's as
good as a veggie gyro gets, down to the mushy out of season
tomato.  Along with the lunch sandwiches you get an order of the
sweet potato fries, which are crispy and salty on the outside
and soft and sweet within. The housemade ketchup is sharp and
sweet, a nice counterpoint to the fries.   The vegan options
continue on the dessert menu, an