Scooped »   Scooped: Kumquat Lemongrass Ice Cream   [Photograph:
Max Falkowitz]  Let's take a minute to appreciate two underdogs
of the citrus world: lemongrass and kumquats.  Okay, so
lemongrass isn't really citrus at all, but the herbaceous and
lemony flavor of its reedy stalks improves most everything it
touches. Though lemongrass meets its highest purpose in complex
curry pastes with fried shallots, moody chilies, and nutty
coconut, the stuff makes some fine custard: delicate and light
with a touch of perfume. And it's even better when combined with
sharp citrus.  Which is where the aggressive tartness of
kumquats comes in. These little fruits—currently abundant in the
Chinese markets surrounding our office—are a pain to prep but
seriously rewarding. They have the rounded sweetness of a Meyer
lemon but with way more sass, and a tropical lilt that plays
well with the aromatic qualities of lemongrass.  The trouble
with kumquats is their overwhelmingly sour juice, not to mention
their tiny yield within a thi