William Skidelsky finds pans tainted with celebrity   I've been
spending a lot of time in department stores recently. I've just
bought a flat, you see - and having never possessed much by way
of furniture, cutlery or cleaning equipment, I've had to put in
some serious shopping time.  The most pleasurable aspect of this
has been buying equipment for my kitchen. I've enjoyed this for
three reasons: it is inexpensive (at least it seems so when you
compare it to other aspects of the home-moving process); it is
simple (find one store you like and you can do most of your
shopping there and then); and, most importantly, it allows you
to indulge all your innermost "celebrity chef in your own
kitchen" fantasies.  The manufacturers of cookware have clearly
cottoned on to this last point. Many ranges these days carry the
endorsement of one or other celebrity chef - for example,
there's the Nigella Lawson kitchen utensils collection and the
Marco Pierre White White Heat pan range. Some chefs, rather
unfairly, have manage