Picture a round bronzed pastry shaped from bread dough and
showered with sugar. Imagine biting into the confection, rich
with butter in its many layers, and watching the roll shatter
into a thousand sweet flakes.  You are eating kouign amann (say
queen-ya-mahn), a delicacy from Brittany, but you are far from
France. The source of this exquisite $4 pleasure: the year-old
b. patisserie in San Francisco.  The “b” refers to Belinda
Leong, the Bay Area pastry chef best known for her desserts at
the esteemed Manresa in Los Gatos and Gary Danko in San
Francisco. Kouign amann is one of many reasons to drop in at her
bakery in the neighborhood of Pacific Heights. The shop's
croissants rival the best in Paris.  Similar epiphanies occurred
almost everywhere I ate during a winter visit to a city I used
to call home and still miss.  For old times' sake, I ordered the
iconic lunch-only hamburger on rosemary focaccia at Zuni Cafe on
Market Street and dropped into Original Joe's on Union Street
for a strapping Thursday speci