[Photographs: Kelly Bone]   9575 W. Pico Blvd. Los Angeles, CA
90035 (map); 310-277-0210; sottorestaurant.com Pizza Style:
Neapolitan Pizza Oven: Stefano Ferrara wood The Skinny: Love it
or hate it Neapolitan with big, bold flavors. Price: Margherita,
$14; Guanciale, $17; Calzone, $16  I don't want to alarm anybody
but there's a bit of a Neapolitan backlash going on out there. I
guess it's to be expected. Neapolitan is becoming nearly
ubiquitous, yet it's an incredibly difficult style to master,
meaning there's a lot of bland $15 pies out there. And even when
it is done right, there isn't a ton of variety and some pizza
nerds can get bored (though not myself). What to do then, if you
still have a deep and abiding love for the puffy crust? If
you're Sotto, you push the Neapolitan envelope and go for
bigger, more intense flavors.   Steve Samson and Zach Pollack
are the chefs—not pizzaioli—behind Sotto, a Southern Italian
restaurant on the edge of West LA, that's on the short list of
restaurants serving great pi