Taking burgers beyond what's expected    In case you haven't
caught on yet, the hamburger has jumped a few notches in the
food hierarchy in the past couple years.  Not the fast-food
burger or even the casual fast burger, but that new animal: the
gourmet burger. Umami Burger falls into that category.  Article
Tab: The menu at Umami Burger in Costa Mesa includes the ahi
tuna burger which features, ahi tuna, crushed avocado, pickled
ginger, sprouts, wasabi crisps and wasabi tarter sauce for $15.
Umami Burger  Where: 2981 Bristol St., Costa Mesa. Other
locations in Anaheim and Laguna Beach.  Info: 714-957-8626,
umami.com  Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11
a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays  Recommended: Manly Burger,
Smushed Potatoes, ice cream sandwich  The small California chain
opened a spot in April at The Camp, the outdoor hipster shopping
center in Costa Mesa, with six gourmet hamburgers on the menu.
All of them cost $11 or $12. But if I'm going to pay $20 and up
for a steak, I don't mind paying ha