Edition: U.S. / Global   By Jane E. Brody Published: July 29,
1987  MOST of us grew up thinking of cheese as healthful, a food
high in protein and calcium at an affordable price. Adding to
the attractiveness of cheese is its versatility. It can be used
as is or in recipes for every course from appetizer to dessert.
It is a popular snack for young and old because it is portable,
can be eaten with the fingers, is widely available and easy to
digest. Cheese is a favorite with parents, who offer it as meals
and snacks, and carry it on outings to provide instant,
nutritious satisfaction for the ''hungries'' that often beset
young children when there is nothing but junk food to buy.  In
the last two decades cheese has become increasingly popular with
adults, some of whom substitute it for meat in the interest of
health. Per capita consumption of hard cheese was 23.2 pounds
last year, more than double the 9.6 pounds per year in 1965,
according to the United States Department of Agriculture. This
has delighted dairy