Peat, Barley, Water: What Gives Whisky Terroir?  Paul Blow   the
yamakaziFor instance, wine is simply fermented: The taste
results from the basic interaction between yeast and grapes.
Whisky is fermented, too, but water and yeast are added to the
grain. If it's malt whisky we're talking about, then the barley
first has to be malted. For a long time, a whiff of peat was
seen as proof of terroir, especially since malting barley over a
peat fire was the dominant style of the Scotches from the island
of Islay, where the local whisky is celebrated for its
distinctive smoky character and brininess. But peat smoke is a
stylistic choice. Islay whiskies can be made without it (see
Bruichladdich, which makes unpeated Islay malt), and whiskies
elsewhere can be made with it (see McCarthy's, from Oregon).
Furthermore, the prime ingredient, barley, often doesn't come
from the place where the whisky is made. Little barley is grown
on the damp island of Islay.  Some say that where the casks are
aged affects the whisky. But,