Edition: U.S. / Global  Food; Out of the Woods  By Jonathan
Reynolds Published: December 8, 2002  ''Hello -- now go away, I
have work to do,'' said Philip Hanes, my host for the weekend at
the splendid lodge he shares with a dozen or so partners in
western North Carolina. He was shaving slices from a basketball-
size hen of the woods mushroom. Such a greeting might drive
ordinary folk out the door and relegate Philip to honorary
curmudgeon status, but for those of us who know this 76-year-old
and the apple-cheeked smile that makes you see the 12-year-old
in him and his brain that whirs like a weathervane in a never-
ending hurricane, it's like hugs and kisses. I dutifully headed
to the wagon-wheel chandeliers and comfy chairs in the log-lined
living room, where various weights and depths of cocktail were
being served.  Philip and his wife, Charlotte, a former physical
therapist and a consultant to Outward Bound, had assembled a
cast of hard-eating, hard-drinking, serious mushroom fanciers
and trout fisherhumans