Samurai Mama: Makato Suzuki's Awesome Second Act  Slideshow
SLIDESHOW: Samurai Mama: Makato Suzuki's Awesome Second Act
[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]  Samurai Mama  205 Grand
Street, Brooklyn NY 11211 (b/n Bedford and Driggs; map);
Service: Reserved but knowledgeable Setting: Communal tables and
a few booths; dim lighting Must-Haves: Udon! And pork belly
Cost:$4 to $11 Grade: A for udon, B+ for everything else   The
wood-and-brick filled interior is moody but comfortable, with a
single long communal table dominating the dining room, along
with a few satellite banquettes. Thankfully, the table is large
enough that you can still be afforded some privacy despite the
communal setting.   Their menu is made for sharing and divided
in the traditional Japanese style—by cooking method. Sections of
small bites, fried dishes, simmered dishes, pan-seared dishes,
sushi, and noodles fill it out.   Homemade Tofu  The Kobashi
section of the menu (all $4) features a half dozen small tastes
made for sharing that range fro