Robert Geller has found his voice, like it or lump it—or love it
(a very viable third option). His collections these past few
seasons have had an enviable coherence. The era he chose to
channel for Spring, the sixties and seventies, is almost a
hundred years removed from the fin de siècle looks he mined last
time, but the pieces were recognizably related, as if passed
down from father to son.  The student protests of the late
sixties gave Geller his juice this season. Those demonstrations
often turned violent, even fatal; Benno Ohnesorg, an unarmed
German university student killed by police in 1967 during a
peaceful protest, was on his mind. Despite this somber, thought-
provoking inspiration, the dandy flourishes and jewel tones
Geller has used before were here, too. This time, though, there
was a new military cast to the collection. The pants were looser
than usual, in army drab and khaki; there were cadet jackets,
and even a full-on flight suit. Screaming punk played on the
soundtrack, and news footage from