Denver's LoHi neighborhood doesn't lack for first-rate
restaurants, and as of early August, the rich just got richer.
That's when Uncle opened, a pan-Asian place where the fusion of
Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Korean and Vietnamese foods create that
happiest of culinary events: dishes that are bigger than the sum
of their already considerable parts.  Uncle is helmed by chef-
owner Tommy Lee and a crew of young people who know how to cook
and have fun on the line, plus work a room.  The restaurant's
name derives from the Chinese term of respect for an elder,
which acknowledges their wisdom, experience and ability to do
something — putting on their shoes, for example — without
tweeting about it or posting a Facebook update every 47 seconds.
It's a sleek, contemporary room, somewhat spartan in the decor.
Floor seating is a blend of small two- and four-top tables, and
the perky host is quick to seat you, even though the restaurant
fills up quickly.  If you opt to sit at the bar, an energetic
staff is quick to engag