life and style  Recipes for a restaurant cookbook  Should a
restaurant cookbook allow the home cook to bring exact replicas
of famous dishes to the table, or is a glossy souvenir tome what
most people are after?  Restaurant cookbook recipes: Bife Ana
steak sandwich from The Eagle Devilled kidneys on toast from
Canteen Mushroom, pearl barley and Swiss chard stew from Canteen
Big Fat Duck Cookbook Heston Blumenthal's Big Fat Duck Cookbook.
Not one for the beginner. Photograph: James Powell  What do
people want from a restaurant cookery book? It's a question that
occurs to me every time a new volume from a famous kitchen hits
the shelves. Are instructions which can actually be used
successfully at home paramount or is a beautifully presented
souvenir with a bit of history, some anecdotes and context
around a handful of recipes enough?  Those which I actually cook
from have several things in common. They contain dishes which
are on the restaurant's menu, enabling the cash-strapped cook to
come close to eating the