San Francisco: Mozzeria   [Photographs: Seth Mazow]  Mozzeria is
a great spot for Neapolitan pizzas, both traditional and
imaginative. They do everything right by using the best oven,
wood, and ingredients. But what sets them apart is that the
owners and many of the craftspeople and waitstaff involved in
building and running the place are Deaf.   3228 16th Street, San
Francisco CA 94110 (at Guerrero; map); Pizza style: Neapolitan-
American Oven type: Stefano Ferrara wood oven The skinny: Really
good Neapolitan pizza with fantastic crust made by Deaf folks
Price: Whole pizzas $12-18  Mozzeria is the work of Melody and
Russ Stein. Melody grew up in the restaurant scene, but this is
her first pizzeria. What Melody and Russ lack in experience,
they make up in pizza IQ. They went big and splurged on a
Stefano Ferrara oven, which is fed aromatic almond wood. Buffalo
mozzarella from Italy, 00 flour, and plum tomatoes from here in
California all demonstrate that Mozzeria understands that great
pizza comes from great i