Genetically unique and grown from nonhybrid seeds passed down
for generations, heirloom tomatoes come in myriad shapes and
sizes, boasting groovy names like Black From Tula, Green Zebra,
Caspian Pink, and Azoychka. Take a deep whiff before buying;
good scent means good taste. Some may have cracks (heirlooms are
known for flavor, not hardiness); not to worry, they’re still
edible. Never refrigerate, which ruins all tomatoes.  Tomato-
chèvre bites. Halve any color of heirloom grape or cherry
tomatoes. Dollop with goat cheese whipped with fresh lemon zest,
minced chives, and black pepper.  BLT. Layer fat heirloom tomato
slices on toasted whole-grain bread; top with tempeh bacon,
green-leaf lettuce or watercress, and mayo mixed with minced
garlic and fresh basil. Or skip the bread, thin the mayo mixture
with a little lemon juice, and drizzle over chopped ingredients
for a salad.  Roasted. Brush halved tomatoes with olive oil,
arrange in a glass baking dish, and roast at 450 degrees for
20–25 minutes, until tender