Samoa: Treasure islands (+photos)  By Darren Risby  For your
chance to win a winter escape to an island paradise, click here.
Samoa has long justified its reputation as one of the cheapest
South Pacific destinations. Look out for a bargain and you can
snaffle a return flight for as little as $350 and, from $30 a
night, travellers can experience "fa'a Samoa" (the islanders'
way of life) in traditional accommodation in a beach fale.
There are eight beautiful islands in the independent state. Many
visitors split their time between the two main islands of 'Upolu
and Savai'i. Most people live on 'Upolu and many say Savai'i
offers visitors "the real Samoa", but to neglect one at the
expense of the other is a crime.  'Upolu is home to the capital
of Apia, a charming and bustling collection of villages, and
there's plenty to do in town.  The main market, the maketi fou -
which is also the main bus station - is a grand mix of colour,
custom and activity.  It's a pot-pourri of fresh produce and
local treasures, inclu