The Spice That Binds  Often invoked as the epitome of blandness
(“he’s so vanilla”), vanilla has a bad rep. That may have
something to do with its ubiquity, or with its use in baking,
that stereotypically 1950s domestic pursuit. As linguist John
McWhorter explains, “Vanilla is your grandmother’s seasoning.”
But in its whole-bean form, the spice is a rare treat—far richer
and more complex than the synthetic version used in about 90
percent of vanilla-flavored goodies in the U.S. Top chefs have
helped real vanilla make a comeback in recent years, even
somewhat daringly using the beans in savory dishes, like beef
with vanilla-bean-infused red wine.  The bean is the fruit of
the vanilla orchid, a tropical plant indigenous to Central and
South America. A climbing vine that hangs from trees, it can
grow as tall as 60 feet or more in the wild—and it’s the only
orchid with any agricultural value.  There are about 100 species
of vanilla orchid, but only three are widely used in cooking:
Vanilla planifolia (a.k.a. V. f