Reading the recent biography Secret Historian: The Life and
Times of Samuel Steward, Professor, Tattoo Artist, and Sexual
Renegade, about the twentieth-century gay man-about-town Samuel
Steward, got Loden Dager co-designer Paul Marlow thinking. "He
had so many different lives in his one life," Marlow explained
at a preview in his studio ahead of the label's Fall show.
(Steward was an English professor, turned novelist, turned
pornographer, turned official tattoo artist to the Oakland,
California, Hell's Angels.) "All these different archetypes of
masculinity: Most guys go through some of those every week,
every month, every year. You have your work, you have your free
time, and you have your hobbies."  So the new collection breaks
down into five archetypes of masculinity, Steward-inspired: the
student, the professor, the biker, the preppy sailor, and the
man-about-town. That's a long way of saying Marlow and his co-
designer, Oliver Helden, are working hard to make sure their
line is diversified among price po