Other Love  Before I left on a trip to New York many years ago,
I called an old college buddy who'd grown up there and asked him
for restaurant recommendations. He gave me about ten names,
including an eatery on the edge of Chinatown that he said served
some of the best Chinese food he'd ever eaten. Since my friend
was from Taiwan originally, I visited the restaurant with high
expectations. So imagine my disappointment when I was handed a
menu filled with the usual tired sesame-chicken and orange-beef
offerings; I then proceeded to eat one of the more humdrum meals
of my Big Apple experience. After I returned home, I called my
friend and asked what was up--at which point he sheepishly
admitted that he'd forgotten to give me a crucial bit of
information: To eat the real Chinese food at this place, you had
to go around to the alley and enter through the back door of the
restaurant.  Lucky for me, I returned to New York that year and
went to the same Chinese restaurant, this time nervously
sneaking around to the