THE province generally known as Aceh, at the north-western tip
of Indonesia, was last year officially named “Aceh, Abode of
Peace”. Despite being an ancient historical title, it is sadly
inaccurate. The Acehnese have long battled for independence,
first from Dutch colonialists, and later from the government of
Indonesia. Since the latest insurgency began in 1976, tens of
thousands have been killed, most of them civilians. But on
December 9th, the province's name should become a little more
apt. That is when the government and leaders of the Free Aceh
Movement (known by its Indonesian acronym, GAM) are due to sign
a peace deal.  The agreement proposes an immediate ceasefire,
followed by an “all-inclusive dialogue” about the political
future of this province of 4.5m people and, in 2004, by
elections. In the meantime, the Indonesian army is expected to
withdraw some of its forces, while GAM will begin to disarm.
Special “peace zones” are to be demilitarised altogether, paving
the way for humanitarian aid and rec