   [Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]  Pizza Cotta Bene  291 3rd
Avenue, Brooklyn, NY (map); 718-722-7200 Pizza style: New York,
Grandma, Sfincione Oven type: Gas-fired Deck The skinny: They've
got great versions of pretty much every major NY-style of pizza.
Price: Slices start at $2.50  Now call me out on this if you
think I'm wrong, but has anyone noticed that it's getting harder
and harder to get a good New York slice in New York? It seems
like most new pizzerias of note in New York these days are of
the Neapolitan and/or hipster variety. Rarely do you find a new
place that's content just doing well-executed, old-school
favorites. We're talking deck-oven, by-the-slice, nothing fancy,
real New York slices, crisp Sicilians, and chewy grandma slices.
Sure, dollar slice joints are springing up left and right, but
you'd be hard pressed to describe the pizza in them as either
"good" or even "old school New York." Places like Best Pizza in
Williamsburg are old-school-ish and no doubt delicious, but
wood-fired ove