In past seasons Vera Wang has voyaged back in time to czarist
Russia or ancient Rome, with the result that her collections
sometimes appeared too much like costume. But for Fall she took
her color cue from the modernist painter Kees van Dongen, and
her strongest influence, believe it or not, was the street.
There was a hipper edge to her layered silhouettes. It came
across most clearly in youthful-looking sleeveless peplum tops
in techno brocade or pleated ottoman, worn with tapering satin
leggings. The sculptural bed jackets in quilted faille were
equally cool. This isn't to say Wang has abandoned the luxe she
loves: We saw more of the burnished bullion embroidery and the
crystal and jet jewelry, including knockout cuffs by Philip
Crangi, that she's used in previous seasons. Her latest
obsession, though, is manipulating fabrics. She worked organza
and felt into lavish florets—spiraling around the waist or
perched on the shoulder—and grand ruffles cascaded down the
front of a kimono jacket (note: an early Fa