[Photographs: Chichi Wang]  I'd like to put forth the claim that
you can never have too many jars of kimchi. For starters, kimchi
is one of the freshest-tasting and juiciest types of pickled
things out there, so the jars probably won't be sitting in your
fridge for long. But if you find yourself with an abundance of
one of Korea's gifts to mankind, there are all kinds of ways you
can employ kimchi in your cooking.  But first, a short primer on
kimchi: What we call kimchi today—that spicy pickle with chili
pepper powder, of primarily cabbage and daikon fermented with
fish or other seafood—began some 400 years ago. Records indicate
that Koreans have been pickling and fermenting vegetables in
earthenware since well before the fourth century AD. As we'd
expect, different regions of Korea produce distinct types of
kimchi.  These distinctions were not altogether clear to me
until I started reading The Book of Kimchi. Yes, there is an
entire book written on the subject, which covers every aspect
from the cultural ce