The Secret Ingredient (Anchovy): Anchoïade  Note: This month's
Secret Ingredient is the anchovy. Take it away, Kerry!
[Photographs: Kerry Saretsky]  There seems to be so much
misunderstanding surrounding the anchovy—so much love and so
much hate.  I usually buy mine in one of three ways: packed flat
in olive oil in a tin, rolled up in salt in a jar, or in a tube
of anchovy paste—the last of which, I must admit, I find both
more convenient and more subtle than the other packaging. In
cooking school, we used to soak anchovy filets in milk—most
people need both their coffee and their anchovies with a touch
of milk.  And so we've come to think of anchovies as a sort of
condiment, either loved or hated. But I had to do actual
research to determine what they look like. Other than those
inside-of-the-green-olive-colored filets, with bony hairs (or
are they hairy bones?) protruding menacingly from the flesh, and
that pungent oceanic smell, what really is an anchovy? They are
small green fish with a silver stripe th