The half-blind tourist  Horatio Clare tries being an Adventurous
Traveller in famine-stricken Ethiopia, but decides that he  ''Do
you think the package people will like it?" asks the overweight
lady from Berkshire. "Not tours like ours, but the all-gather-
round-the-pool-then-off-on-a-donkey sort?" The tour leader
ignores the mule ride scheduled for day nine and the empty
swimming pool ten yards away. "No," he assures her.  We are
sitting on the terrace of a government hotel on a hill above the
town of Gondar, in the highlands of Ethiopia. North, south and
east of us, people are staring at death by starvation, but we
will be eating again in a few minutes. After lunch, we will
descend on the magnificent castle of Fasilides. Every person we
will drive past knows the rains stopped a month early and the
lowlands are turning to dust. We will take showers before
dinner.  The clients' enjoyment, the tour leader's job, the
travel company's profits and the Ethiopian government's grand
scheme for a dollar harvest all re