Living Room  Put up your feet . . . just not on the table
Brad's Swingside Cafe The most romantic place ever to feature a
windowsill shrine to the Pittsburgh Pirates, Brad Inserra's
wood-paneled living room of a cafe also serves up rich, loosely
Italian fare and, if you're lucky, a live performance by Orville
Johnson, reminding you that "everybody wants to go to heaven,
but nobody wants to die." (Those looking for a shortcut can just
try the tiramisu.) Be sure to loosen your belt: Like any good
host, Inserra won't send you home hungry—or bored. The crab-
crowned aglio olio is the size of two meals and has the flavor
of three; you'll find yourself eagerly anticipating the
leftovers. The gumbo gets a Northwest touch from Alaskan white
salmon; it goes down lighter than its Southern progenitors, but
this reviewer still found it in his refrigerator the next
day—and swiftly gobbled it up. DAMON AGNOSServes: dinner. 4212
Fremont Ave. N., 633-4057. FREMONT $$ Dinette Dinette has become
an extension of our home, which