Walk with Muriel Gray  Somehow, spending every minute of
available light outdoors heals the soul on these dank, dark days
in a way that shuffling through the Hades of strip-lit shopping
malls could never hope to manage.  To this end, it's ideal to
plan a circular walk that keeps you outdoors the entire time.
Twenty-five miles east of Fort William, the Ardverikie estate,
where the BBC films the unintentionally hilarious Monarch Of The
Glen, boasts a 10-mile route of such breathtaking grandeur and
variety that even the inevitable driving icy rain will do little
to diminish its beauty. Offering exposed wilderness in addition
to the more domesticated shelter of towering forest, it makes
the walk possible even for those whose outdoors skills are more
Natalie Appleton than Ernest Shackleton. Starting from the lay-
by on the A86 at the western end of Loch Laggan, a rough track
snakes a thousand feet up into the hills to the twin lochs of
Lochan na Hearba, a glittering ribbon of water slashed between
towering cliffs,