An Loi  The Tai Chin at An Loi Vietnamese Restaurant in Columbia
has thin slices of round steak and brisket in a rice noodle pho
at An Loi. (John Lindner, Baltimore Sun / November 16, 2011)
The dish: Tai Chin ($6.95)  At the very least, this pho with
round steak and brisket is as accessible to the first-timer as
any Vietnamese recipe, aside from, maybe, a spring roll.  The
pho curious can start with Tai Chin as an introduction to an
exotic staple at a bargain price. For the pho lover who wouldn't
dream of a bowl without tendon and tripe, An Loi offers, in all,
a dozen pho selections.  Given the exceptionally neutral tones
of cooked beef and rice noodles, the broth needs to carry the
day. An Loi's Tai Chin does, with subtly and a deceptively
simple flavor.  I didn't taste star anise, a familiar pho broth
ingredient. I definitely picked up a note of cardamom, very
strong at the start but fading quickly. Otherwise, singling out
spices was tricky in this integrated stock. Per custom,
cilantro, lime, chili pepper