Sophie Barbasch  Chef Jason Marcus superstitiously believes in
patterns, and in his view the fates conspired for him to open
his new restaurant in Brooklyn, where he serves the shellfish
and pork that he unabashedly loves. "It's probably because I'm
Jewish," Marcus says about his obsession with synchronicity, and
about his love for pork, shellfish, and even Seinfeld.   Sitting
at the southern tip of trendy Williamsburg on South 4th Street
between Roebling and Havemeyer, Traif faces the Brooklyn-Queens
Expressway, as well as the Broadway Avenue dividing line between
hipster and Hasidic Williamsburg, where there have been recent
tensions between the two communities. The restaurant's notable
characteristics—its explicit irony, its lack of any discernable
outdoor sign, the local artwork on the walls, its specialty
dishes like strawberry-cinnamon baby back ribs, and its stunning
outdoor garden—are assuredly in keeping with restaurants of its
ilk in the northern section of Williamsburg, though there's a
strong Jewi