A New Dawn for Zimbabwe?  Conde Nast Traveler Photographer:
Håkan Ludwigson  A male lion near Vundu Camp in northern
Zimbabwe's Mana Pools National Park charges... Read More  A male
lion near Vundu Camp in northern Zimbabwe's Mana Pools National
Park charges before veering off and loping back into the bush.
Close  Photographer: Håkan Ludwigson    I'm having lunch on the
terrace of the Victoria Falls Hotel, something I never would
have done a few years ago. Even now, as I look out over the
manicured lawns and the baboons and spider monkeys romping among
the trees, I am uneasy.  When Robert Mugabe's power as leader of
Zimbabwe was at its cruel height, this hotel provided the
dictator with a reliable flow of hard currency and served as a
showpiece of the dictatorship. Mugabe's men could point to the
tourists here and say, "See, everything is normal." I didn't
want to be part of that charade.  Today Mugabe, eighty-eight and
ailing, still rules the country with an iron fist. There is a
sense, though, that his time