Asia de Cuba  Critic Rating Reader Rating 0  This review was
first published in September 1999  Asia de Cuba announces its
fusion intentions blatantly. Never mind that there is not a
significant Asian population in Cuba or vice versa, there are
probably enough people who know that a restaurant of that name
is a hot ticket in Ian Schrager's Morgans hotel in New York and
Mondrian hotel in Los Angeles. Asia de Cuba is the largest
restaurant in the first Ian Schrager London hotel, the St
Martins Lane, which opened near the beginning of this month.  My
visit coincided with London Fashion Week, which was perfect.
People talk about fashions in food, but until Asia de Cuba there
hasn't really been an equivalent of the opportunity for a dopey
groupie to buy for a ludicrous price something that doesn't suit
and will never fit. I-Thai at the Hempel hotel made a stab at it
but its minimalism means there hasn't quite been the culinary
version of embarrassing jewelled and feathered Gucci jeans or a
purchasable edible horro