about four in the afternoon
José was lucky enough to stay with the main body . Captain Plaza was in command of our party , and he rode with the guide and me . Our course to Ica , the first village on our route , lay over a burning desert of very loose sand , dotted at great intervals by clumps of stunted palms . It was a horrible ride , and when we reached Ica , about four in the afternoon , neither men nor animals could go a step further . The people received us kindly , provided food and drink , and fresh horses in place of our wearied animals . Then we slept for an hour , and , thus refreshed , resumed the pursuit . I have often wondered since how any of us survived the hardships of the next few days .