six o’clock
This , together with some of the Western wines of America , had arrived , and was ready to be broached . The Warden tested these modern wines , and recognized a new flavor , but gave it only a moderate approbation ; for , in truth , an elderly Englishman has not a wide appreciation of wines , nor loves new things in this kind more than in literature or life . But he tasted the Madeira , too , and underwent an ecstasy , which was only alleviated by the dread of gout , which he had an idea that this wine must bring on , -- and truly , if it were so splendid a wine as he pronounced it , some pain ought to follow as the shadow of such a pleasure . As it was a festival of antique date , the dinner hour had been fixed earlier than is usual at such stately banquets ; namely , at six o'clock , which was long before the dusky hour at which Englishmen love best to dine . About that period , the carriages drove into the old courtyard of the Hospital in great abundance ; blocking up , too , the ancient portal , and remaining in a line outside . Carriages they were with armorial bearings , family coaches in which came Englishmen in their black coats and white neckcloths , elderly , white-headed , fresh-colored , squat ; not beautiful , certainly , nor particularly dignified , nor very well dressed , nor with much of an imposing air , but yet , somehow or other , producing an effect of force , respectability , reliableness , trust , which is probably deserved , since it is invariably experienced . Cold they were in deportment , and looked coldly on the stranger , who , on his part , drew himself up with an extra haughtiness and reserve , and felt himself in the midst of his enemies , and more as if he were going to do battle than to sit down to a friendly banquet .