about six o’clock in the evening
It was now the evening , near nightfall , and we had been so intent on beating our awkward-looking opponent , that we had none of us time to look at the splendid scene that burst upon our view , on rounding a precipitous rock , from the crevices of which some magnificent trees shot up -- their gnarled trunks and twisted branches overhanging the canal where we were pulling , and anticipating the fast-falling darkness that was creeping over the fair face of nature ; and there we floated , in the deep shadow of the cliff and trees Dragonflies and Water Sprites , motionless and silent , the boats floating so lightly that they scarcely seemed to touch the water , the men resting on their oars , and all of us rapt with the magnificence of the scenery around us , beneath us , and above us . The left or western bank of the narrow entrance to the harbour , from which we were now debauching , ran out in all its precipitousness and beauty , -LRB- with its dark evergreen bushes overshadowing the deep blue waters , and its gigantic trees shooting forth high into the glowing western sky , their topmost branches gold-tipped in the flood of radiance shed by the rapidly sinking sun , while all below where we lay was grey cold shade , -RRB- until it joined the northern shore , when it sloped away gradually towards the east ; the higher parts of the town sparkled in the evening sun , on this dun ridge , like golden turrets on the back of an elephant , while the houses that were in the shade covered the declivity with their dark masses , until it sank down to the water 's edge . On the right hand the haven opened boldly out into a basin about four miles broad by seven long , in which the placid waters spread out beyond the shadow of the western bank into one vast sheet of molten gold , with the canoe tearing along the shining surface , her side glancing in the sun , and her paddles flashing back his rays , and leaving a long train of living fire sparkling in her wake . It was now about six o'clock in the evening ; the sun had set to us , as we pulled along under the frowning brow of the cliff , where the birds were fast settling on their nightly perches , with small happy twitterings , and the lizards and numberless other chirping things began to send forth their evening hymn to the great Being who made them and us , and a solitary white sailing owl would every now and then flit spectre like from one green tuft , across the bald face of the cliff , to another , and the small divers around us were breaking up the black surface of the waters into little sparkling circles as they fished for their suppers . All was becoming brown and indistinct near us ; but the level beams of the setting sun still lingered with a golden radiance upon the lovely city , and the shipping at anchor before it , making their sails , where loosed to dry , glance like leaves of gold , and their spars , and masts , and rigging like wires of gold , and gilding their flags , which were waving majestically and slow from the peaks in the evening breeze ; and the Moorish-looking steeples of the churches were yet sparkling in the glorious blaze , which was gradually deepening into gorgeous crimson , while the large pillars of the cathedral , then building on the highest part of the ridge , stood out like brazen monuments , softening even as we looked into a Stonehenge of amethysts . One half of every object , shipping , houses , trees , and hills , was gloriously illuminated ; but even as we looked , the lower part of the town gradually sank into darkness , and faded from our sight -- the deepening gloom cast by the high bank above us , like the dark shadow of a bad spirit , gradually crept on , and on , and extended farther and farther ; the sailing water-fowl in regular lines , no longer made the water flash up like flame ; the russet mantle of eve was fast extending over the entire hemisphere ; the glancing minarets , and the tallest trees , and the topgallant-yards and masts of the shipping , alone flashed back the dying effulgence of the glorious orb , which every moment grew fainter and fainter , and redder and redder , until it shaded into purple , and the loud deep bell of the convent of La Merced swung over the still waters , announcing the arrival of even-song and the departure of day . `` Had we not better pull back to supper , sir ? ''