nine o’clock
While these exulting sons and daughters of felicity tread this round of pleasure , or regale in different parties , and separate lodges , with fine imperial tea and other delicious refreshments , their ears are entertained with the most ravishing delights of music , both instrumental and vocal . There I heard the famous Tenducci , a thing from Italy -- It looks for all the world like a man , though they say it is not . The voice , to be sure , is neither man 's nor woman 's ; but it is more melodious than either ; and it warbled so divinely , that , while I listened , I really thought myself in paradise . At nine o'clock , in a charming moonlight evening , we embarked at Ranelagh for Vauxhall , in a wherry so light and slender that we looked like so many fairies sailing in a nutshell . My uncle , being apprehensive of catching cold upon the water , went round in the coach , and my aunt would have accompanied him , but he would not suffer me to go by water if she went by land ; and therefore she favoured us with her company , as she perceived I had a curiosity to make this agreeable voyage -- After all , the vessel was sufficiently loaded ; for , besides the waterman , there was my brother Jery , and a friend of his , one Mr Barton , a country gentleman , of a good fortune , who had dined at our house -- The pleasure of this little excursion was , however , damped , by my being sadly frighted at our landing ; where there was a terrible confusion of wherries and a crowd of people bawling , and swearing , and quarrelling , nay , a parcel of ugly-looking fellows came running into the water , and laid hold of our boat with great violence , to pull it a-shore ; nor would they quit their hold till my brother struck one of them over the head with his cane . But this flutter was fully recompensed by the pleasures of Vauxhall ; which I no sooner entered , than I was dazzled and confounded with the variety of beauties that rushed all at once upon my eye . Image to yourself , my dear Letty , a spacious garden , part laid out in delightful walks , bounded with high hedges and trees , and paved with gravel ; part exhibiting a wonderful assemblage of the most picturesque and striking objects ' pavilions , lodges , groves , grottoes , lawns , temples and cascades ; porticoes , colonades , and rotundos ; adorned with pillars , statues , and painting : the whole illuminated with an infinite number of lamps , disposed in different figures of suns , stars , and constellations ; the place crowded with the gayest company , ranging through those blissful shades , or supping in different lodges on cold collations , enlivened with mirth , freedom , and good humour , and animated by an excellent band of music .