three o'clock in the afternoon
At the head of the centre valley -- that of the Cauca -- is situated Popayan , the capital of the province of the same name , in the midst of a beautiful plain , almost surrounded by two streams , which finish their course about a league below it , when they fall into the fine river Cauca . This river then runs to the northward through the rich and charming valley of the Cauca . Nothing can be more delicious than the climate of this region , the inhabitants being never oppressed by excessive heat , or annoyed by extreme cold . Rain , however , falls during the last three months of the year , and also in April and May ; but even at that period the mornings are fine , as the showers seldom come on until two or three o'clock in the afternoon , and continue during the night . The plain , or I may call it the wide valley of Popayan , lies between two ranges of lofty mountains . On one side are the Cordilleras , with Purace , eternally covered with snow , rising above them ; and on the west side is another range , which separates the valley from the province of Buenaventura . In the midst , surrounded by trees , appears Popayan , with its numerous churches and large convents , distinguished at a considerable distance by their whiteness .