about noon
I never found myself in a position in which there was less to do . There was a nasty smell about the little boat which made me almost ill ; every turn in the river was so exactly like the last , that we might have been standing still ; there was no amusement except eating , and that , when once done , was not of a kind to make an early repetition desirable . Even Johnson was becoming dull , and I began to doubt whether I was so desirous as I once had been to travel the length and breadth of all Spain . But about noon a little incident occurred which did for a time remove some of our tedium . The boat had stopped to take in passengers on the river ; and , among others , a man had come on board dressed in a fashion that , to my eyes , was equally strange and picturesque . Indeed , his appearance was so singular , that I could not but regard him with care , though I felt at first averse to stare at a fellow-passenger on account of his clothes . He was a man of about fifty , but as active apparently as though not more than twenty five ; he was of low stature , but of admirable make ; his hair was just becoming grizzled , but was short and crisp and well cared for ; his face was prepossessing , having a look of good humour added to courtesy , and there was a pleasant , soft smile round his mouth which ingratiated one at the first sight .