about midday
It was still fertile , and covered with luxuriant vegetation on every side ; but the signs of human habitation decreased , until at length they ceased . The reason of this lies in the unhealthy character of the country , which , like many places in Italy , is subject to malaria , and is shunned by the people . This is the nature of the country which lies around ancient Paestum ; and though the fields are cultivated , yet the cultivators live at a distance upon the slopes of the mountains . At about midday they arrived at Paestum . Here they descended from the carriage , and giving instruction to the driver to remain at this place until they should return , they started off to explore the ruined city . It had been their intention to make use of the driver as guide , to show them the objects of interest in the town ; but his long-continued sulks drove this from their minds , and they concluded to trust to themselves and their guide-books . The carriage was drawn up on the side of the road , not far from where there stood an archway , still entire , which once formed one of the gates of Paestum .