noon
The martinganes flatten in their jibs along their high steeving bowsprits and jib-booms . Shift your sheets , too , now , for the wind is coming . Past L'Infresco with its lovely harbour of refuge , lonely as a bay in a desert island , its silent shade and its ancient spring . The wind is south by west at first , but it will go round in an hour or two , and before noon you will make Scalea -- stand out for the reef , the only one in Calabria -- with a stern breeze . You have passed the most beautiful spot on the beautiful Italian coast , without seeing it . There , between the island of Dino and the cape lies San Nicola , with its grand deserted tower , its mighty cliffs , its deep , safe bay and its velvet sand . What matter ?