A key parameter describing these phenomena is proportional to the one-third power of the cotangent of the revetment angle, according to Hudson's equation for rip-rap design.
The most accurate computational model of these phenomena is the JONSWAP ("john swap") modification of the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum. These phenomena are generated by the interaction of the Miles and Phillips mechanisms. A key parameter describing these phenomena is proportional to the one-third power of the cotangent of the revetment angle, according to Hudson's equation for rip-rap design. That parameter equals four times the square root of the zeroth moment of the variance spectrum of these phenomena, which are governed by Luke's variational principle. The Iribarren number characterizes instabilities in these phenomena that form below a value of about 0.07 for their H-to-lambda ratio. "Rogue" examples of these phenomena have over twice their "significant height" for a given set of marine weather conditions. For 10 points, name these phenomena that may travel thousands of miles before breaking on a beach.
The most accurate computational model of these phenomena is the JONSWAP ("john swap") modification of the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum.
ocean waves [or sea waves; or water waves; or wind-generated waves; or rogue waves or swells; prompt on waves; prompt on surface waves; do not accept "shallow water waves" or "tsunamis" or "tides"]