Shoaling causes an increase in height of these phenomena, while angled ones create longshore currents.
One of these phenomena named after Draupner was uncharacteristically large, and Merian's formula applies to a type of them called a seiche ["saysh"]. The shape of these phenomena can be described as a trochoid, and "rogue" ones have height more than twice the significant or mean height. These phenomena can create sea stacks from arches, while seasonal variations causing high and short ones of these phenomena can explain the formation of sand (*) bars. Shoaling causes an increase in height of these phenomena, while angled ones create longshore currents. For 10 points, identify this rolling motion of water in the ocean, a large example of which is a tsunami.
One of these phenomena named after Draupner was uncharacteristically large, and Merian's formula applies to a type of them called a seiche ["saysh"].
waves