Edition: U.S. / Global

Parsing Parsley

By Molly O'Neill
Published: July 13, 1997

Like salt, parsley is a seasoning that orchestrates other flavors. So deftly does it do its job that it is usually taken for granted.

This lack of praise is not reflected in the medical folklore, where parsley is touted as an effective cure for rheumatism, swelling and lethargy. The Romans used parsley to stimulate circulation and appetite. And in recent years, the sales of parsley capsules have increased right along with the wholesale consumption of garlic.

We do know for certain that parsley does for cooking what people claim it does for health -- namely, clean and refresh. With its hint of camphor, citrus and grass, and its subtle peppery bite, parsley cuts fat and grease and lends a youthful kick to almost any dish.

Although there are five botanical varieties of parsley, only two are commonly employed: curly-leafed parsley -- so decorative, it is used as a garnish -- and flat-leaf or Italian parsley, also called celery-leaf parsley, which has thick, deep-green leaves and a decidedly blunt taste.

Sardinia claims to be parsley's homeland, but that may have more do with its widespread use there than its actual point of origin. Parsley is a hardy, prolific herb that has been growing for thousands of years all over the world. Its affinity for the cooking of southern Italy is only natural, since it is the ultimate counterpoint to bold, boisterous flavors.

And while flat-leaf parsley is perfectly capable of playing a supporting role, it has enough flavor to be able to define a dish, tabbouleh being the perfect example. In ''Herbs and the Earth,'' Henry Beston describes the experience of gardening with parsley, both for its utility and its beauty. Parsley, he says, is not only colorful and abundant; it is exuberant. And it is exuberance that makes it almost impossible to overuse.

Parsley can be used by the handful in omelettes, frittatas, pasta, rice or potatoes. A sprinkling of it, freshly minced, in a vinaigrette, over poached leeks or on boiled and buttered potatoes adds a wonderfully imperceptible nuance. You can puree parsley with potatoes, zucchini or spinach, or fry it and eat it by itself (a kind of fragile tempura) or as a side dish with grilled meat or fish. You could also press it into fish before it's sauteed a la meuniere, or use it to stuff veal, chicken or leg of lamb.

In her book ''Savoring Spices and Herbs,'' Julie Sahni says that parsley lends a streak of balminess to everything it touches. She was speaking specifically of parsley when it is minced and simmered in a bouquet garni, but she could just as easily have been speaking of parsley when it is sauteed with garlic, lemon and orange zest to make gremolata, the secret ingredient in osso bucco, or when it is sauteed with garlic alone, to make the condiment known as persillade. In such sauces, parsley may seem like a member of the chorus, but in fact, its presence changes everything.

Parsley Salad

4 bunches flat-leaf parsley, leaves only

1/2teaspoon salt

1/2teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 red onion, cut in wafer-thin slices

1 tomato, diced.

Rinse, spin-dry and refrigerate the parsley. Place the salt and pepper in a salad bowl. Add the lemon juice. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. When the vinaigrette is thick and stable, add the onion and the tomato and toss. Add the parsley, toss gently and serve. To be eaten alone, or on top of breaded and pan-fried veal, chicken or oily fish like tuna.

Yield: Six servings.

Parsley Oil

3 bunches flat-leaf parsley

3 cups extra-virgin olive oil.



Yield: Three cups.


1 cup bulgur wheat

3 ripe tomatoes, finely chopped

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and finely chopped

1/2onion, minced

1/2cup minced fresh mint

1/2cup minted fresh flat-leaf parsley

Juice of 2 lemons

1/2cup olive oil

Salt to taste.

1. Place the bulgur in a bowl with cold water to cover and allow it to soften for 2 to 3 hours. Wrap in a clean kitchen towel and drain.

2. Drain excess liquid from the tomatoes and cucumber. In a large bowl, combine the bulgur, tomatoes, cucumber, onion, mint and parsley. Add the lemon juice, oil and salt and mix well. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Yield: Six servings.

Parsley Soup

1 onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled but whole

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/4 teaspoon dried chili pepper

11/2 -inch piece of fresh ginger root, peeled and diced

1 tablespoon sweet butter

2 zucchini, chopped

5 bunches parsley, cleaned

3 cups chicken broth

1 cup milk

11/2 teaspoons kosher salt

1/2teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup buttermilk

1/2cup bread crumbs

1/4 cup blanched almonds.