Map of the Barolo DOCG.
Map of the Barolo DOCG. (Courtesy)

This week I'd like to talk about a grape that has a history that goes back to at least the 1st century AD in recorded history. DNA evidence shows that it is likely the indigenous grape of Italy's Piedmont region. A grape who's name literally means royalty. A grape that produced such sought after wine that the penalty for cutting down someone's vine would have the sentence of chopping off the perpetrator's right hand. The grape is the Nebbiolo grape.

Nebbiolo, you would think, should be an easy grape to grow. It's been around for so long it must be, right? Not so, and it probably took winemakers many seasons and recipes to perfect the wines from this grape.

How Barbaresco looks in the glass.
How Barbaresco looks in the glass. (Courtesy)

First, it is an early budding grape and a late ripening grape. It needs hot growing season temperatures and then it is not fully ripe until October in the Italian Piedmont. The grape has been known to be susceptible to coulure, or grape shatter, when a cold rain during the delicate budding season can cause the grape bunch to be malformed or undeveloped all together. The vines are particular to the soil and grow well in high lime content soils that are halfway between limestone and mud. The vines have been known to be transplanted in sandy soils, but typically, Nebbiolo vines don't adapt well. Even the mineral content of the drainage can affect the Nebbiolo. The Lombardy area, where some say the grape originated, has a high schist content.


Growers have found the varying levels of potassium and magnesium will affect the acidic nature of the grape and the resulting wines.

The most famous wines made from the Nebbiolo are the Barolo and Barbaresco. Because the grape is very reactive to the soil and the microclimate, the subtleties of the wines across just the Piedmont region of Italy can be noted.

The blue quality of the Nebbiolo grapes.
The blue quality of the Nebbiolo grapes. (Courtesy)

In La Morra and Barolo the soil contains a high concentration of limestone-rich Tortonian marl. The more aromatic, fruitier styles of Barolo typically come from these soil types; La Morra is considered to produce the most perfumed and graceful Barolos, while those from Barolo tend to be a little more complex, and broader-textured. In Castiglione-Falleto, Serralunga d'Alba and Monforte, the vineyards are planted on looser and less fertile, Helvetian soils, which include both sandstone and limestone. This leads to a brick-colored wine, which is more intense, bigger in structure and requires a longer time to age. Serralunga d'Alba is well structured, long lived and the most tannic of the five, while Castiglione-Falleto is renowned for its full-bodied, rich nature and good balance and aromas. Monforte D'Alba offers rich, concentrated characteristics and a serious intensity.

To earn the name Barolo, the wines must undergo at least 38 months' aging prior to commercial release, of which 18 must be spent in barrel. The barrel aging is typically small oak barrels. For the added designation of riserva, the total aging time increases to 62 months. As the tannins soften over time, the complexity shows through with hints of earth, truffles and dark chocolate.

The reaction of the Nebbiolo grape to the soils and climate led to an identified Nebbiolo di Barbaresco classification of grape and a corresponding DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), and is the highest classification for Italian wines. It denotes controlled (controllata) production methods and guaranteed (garantita) wine quality. Both the Barolo and the Barbaresco have a DOCG classification.

Similar to its more famous sibling Barolo, Barbaresco is made from 100 percent Nebbiolo and shares its cult status as one of the finest wines in the world. However, there are several differences between the two. Barbaresco has a slightly maritime climate: warmer, drier and milder than its neighbor. This means its grapes tend to ripen earlier than those in Barolo. As a result, the wines are less tannic and more approachable at an earlier age. However there is still plenty of acidity and tannins to make this an age-worthy red. Barbaresco is characterized by its rich, spicy flavors and perfumed sweetness and is considered more elegant and refined than its counterpart, which is a more robust and longer-lived red.

Regulations stipulate that Barbaresco must have a minimum alcohol content of 12.5 percent and undergo two years of ageing, one of which must be spent in wooden barrels. For the added designation of riserva, the ageing increases to four years, with one of those years in wood.

Great bargains can be found with either wine made with the Nebbiolo. You can sample excellent examples across different microclimates and not spend over $20 per bottle. Try to choose older vintages if you can as they will have softer tannins, otherwise buy for the cellar.