Richly famous tombs

There are two types of people in this world - those who find cemeteries to be fascinating and lovely, and those who find cemeteries to be creepy and morbid. If you're among the latter, skip this story.

If you're among the former, consider Hollywood.

Not the West Coast center of glitz and glamour, but rather, the historic cemetery in Richmond where presidents and military leaders share the ground with local notables and regular folks from all walks of life.

Hollywood Cemetery is a spellbinding place to visit for many reasons. Its history, and the history of those buried here, are endlessly interesting. Its landscaping and architecture are beautiful. Its hilly 135-acre layout is a challenge to hikers and bikers. Artists come here to sketch, and birders come here to observe.

Inspired by Mount Auburn in Cambridge, Mass., the nation's first landscaped cemetery, Hollywood was designed in 1847 and laid out on a bluff overlooking the James River. The holly tree from which it takes its name is no longer there, but the original stone gate still stands at the entrance.

Whether you take the 90-minute guided tour or spend a couple of hours exploring on your own (with a detailed map provided by the office), you will find treasures at Hollywood.

You can visit the graves of two U.S. presidents - the spire monument atop John Tyler's grave is only about a half-dozen steps away from the cast-iron cage that holds James Monroe's sarcophagus. There are a half-dozen governors of Virginia buried here.

There is a strong Confederate presence here. President Jefferson Davis has one of the most prominent graves, and generals George Pickett and J.E.B. Stuart are buried here as well. The Daughters of the Confederacy erected a 90-foot cairn as a memorial to the Civil War dead who rest all around the ground surrounding it.

Some of the most interesting and moving monuments are for the most ordinary people. One of the most popular sites is the grave of 2-year-old Florence Rees, who died of scarlet fever in 1862. As a toddler, she loved the cast-iron dog statue that her grandfather owned. Because of an iron shortage during the Civil War, the statue was in danger of being melted down for bullets, but her grandfather placed it on her grave, where it still stands today. Visitors to Hollywood frequently leave small gifts on the grave for both the little girl and the faithful dog that watches over her.

Walk the cemetery's grounds for an hour or more, and your legs will be feeling the toll. If you're not up for such a workout, Hollywood can also be explored by car. The roadways, originally designed for horse-drawn carriages, are narrow but negotiable.

For people who enjoy them, cemeteries are places of life, not death. Hollywood is so alive that it practically breathes.


Wear comfortable shoes and bring a bottle of water. This is not a flat cemetery. If you take the guided tour or if you spend an hour or two on your own, you will be getting a workout. So be prepared.

Go to the bathroom before you get to the cemetery. There are no public restrooms on the premises.

Don't limit yourself to the famous people. One of the most interesting elements of Hollywood is the architecture and craftsmanship in the memorials. 
Spend some time just looking around and finding interesting markers that catch your eye.

If you're interested in local history, do a little research before you go to the cemetery. There are six governors buried at Hollywood, authors Ellen Glasgow and James Cabell, and several other significant people in Virginia. The more you know about them, the more you'll appreciate your visit.

If you're an avid cyclist (and in good enough shape to handle the hills), bring your bicycle along and start pedaling. With about 7 miles worth of paved roadway, the cemetery makes for a great ride. If you get lost, just look for the blue line on the pavement and follow it back to the office.

Getting there

From the Peninsula, it's about 80 miles each way. It's a straight shot up the interstate, so it should take less than 90 minutes to get there.

The kid factor

Is Hollywood Cemetery for kids? Depends on the kids. It's outdoors and a nice place to walk. If your grade-schooler wears a pedometer, this is a great way to take a whole lot of steps. But the hilly layout will be very tiring for young legs, and obviously a cemetery calls for a certain amount of decorum. They don't need to act like mourners, but they shouldn't be hyper either. If you're not sure they can behave, it's best not to bring them.

The finer points

Cost. A 90-minute guided walking tour of the cemetery costs $10, but if you want to just pick up a detailed map at the office and explore on your own, it's free.

Hours. The cemetery's office is open 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. on weekdays. The office is closed on weekends, though visitors can still tour the cemetery.

Eats: Mama Zu's, a hole-in-the-wall establishment located about two blocks from the cemetery, is a distinctive Italian restaurant with a good reputation for both quality and portion size. The place is small, but it's popular with locals, so don't be surprised if you have to wait. It's open for lunch (11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.) and dinner (5:30-11 p.m.) during the week, but just dinner on Saturdays. It's closed on Sundays. For another option, try some of the places on Cary Avenue, such as the 821 Bakery Café.

On your FM dial: If you're going to spend some time driving through the cemetery, tune in to the local National Public Radio affiliate at 88.9 FM for some classical or jazz tunes that could set a nice tone for your visit.

Other historic cemeteries

Looking for other historic cemeteries? Try these.

Arlington. The most famous of all American cemeteries, with Kennedy's eternal flame, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and all those breathtaking rows of markers. Always a moving experience.

Fredericksburg. The national cemetery here holds the remains of Union soldiers killed in Civil War battles nearby. The Colonial Heritage Society (540-371-3906) offers tours of St. George's Episcopal Church, the Masonic Cemetery and the Washington-Gordon Cemetery.

Lynchburg. The Old City Cemetery is the oldest continuously operated cemetery in the state. There are five small "house museums" on the grounds, as well as information about the cemetery's horticulture and its history.

Mike Holtzclaw can be reached at 928-6479 or

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