diamond cut

Diamond Cut

The rough diamond is finished in various types of cut, such as to be different in shape but with the sole objective of exploiting the qualities of refraction and therefore brightness and brilliance.

If round it is said Brilliant cut that with its 57/58 facets if performed symmetrically, according to previously unknown and therefore perfect mathematical criteria, is absolutely the one that best highlights the characteristics of this mineral, the hardest in the Mhos scale and that it comes from the millennia spent in the bowels of the earth.

Then there is the Emerald cut of rectangular shape with rounded corners, as well as the square or heart-shaped, or baguette or oval.

All variants highlight the skill of diamond cutters who have the heavy role of knowing how to transform a rough stone into a highly effective light beam.

Proportions, symmetry and finish

Proportions: The evaluation of the proportions is performed with appropriate instrumentation which percentages the dimensions and angles of the Diamond with respect to the ideal and reference measurements of each type of cut.

Symmetry - it is the exact correspondence of the shape to the edge of the stone.

Finish - it is also called polishing and reflects the skill of the cutter in making the surfaces and edges perfectly reflective of the light.

Cutting - itis the result of a job that tends to perfection and that is the result of the skill of the cutter who must be able to well carry out the 4 main phases such as cleavage, proportions, symmetry, and finishing. On these phases depend 3important factors such as dispersion, twinkle, and therefore brilliance.

The dispersion allows to enhance the qualities of the Diamante mineral with the return of the light that comes from inside and outside, originating the particular flashes that determine what is called "the fire". The sparkle is useful to give that vitality of flashes of light that is obtained by moving it.


Reflections on the ideal diamond cut

The ideal cut of the Diamond, the result of the skill of the cutter stretched to perfection, which can now be obtained with high precision tools, in fact, does not exist except in the will of the performer who must however respect the raw material consisting of an octahedral crystal and obtain from it with the utmost pleasantness, a cut that makes it in perfect balance with its intrinsic qualities.

Ingeneral, all experts agree that rigorous cutting standards cause most of the rawmaterial to be lost, thus increasing costs.
It must be taken into account that these dispersions cause price increasesbetween the different types of cuts. The ideal or better cut makes the value ofthe diamond grow.

eternity diamond rings

Diamond Cut Shapes

The most widespread form is certainly the round one, the Brillante, but square shapes, cushion, emerald, heart, marquise, pear, princess, oval, trilliant are also common. Some cutters also adopt particular shapes and cuts, some of which are patented such as the most famous "Asscher" cut. An unusual cut will increase the value of the diamond.


Round Cut Diamond

The Round cut Diamond called "brilliant cut" created by the Venetian cutter Vincenzo Peruzzi in 1600 is still today considered the most classic and popular. The round cut modified by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1916 is the most appreciated for its perfect proportions that enhance its refractive ability.

It is characterized by 57 facets: 33 in the upper part (table and crown) and 24 in the pavilion. Furthermore, there is a so-called 58th facet at the end of the pavilion, which is the meeting point of all the others.

It is considered the ideal cut for its perfect proportions and symmetry which together contribute significantly to making it extremely lively in its shine and brilliance compared to others and for the same quality.


Cushion Cut Diamond

The cushion cut diamond is very obsolete and generally has a soft, square or even rectangular shape, with rounded edges that give it a cushion-like appearance. Hence the name "cushion cut".

There are standard pillow cuts and they are the longest-established cut styles, and there are modified pillow cuts that are nothing more than simple modern variations.

It is a cut that does not make the diamond as bright and lively as the brilliant cut and for this reason it also costs much less.


Radiant Cut Diamond

The radiant cut diamond is a combination of "step cuts" such as the emerald cut and the round brilliant cut. "In fact, it shows all the advantages of both. It was designed in 1977 to maximize the brilliance of the diamond with its 70 veneers.

The rectangular radiant cut diamond is an excellent option for those who love the emerald cut shape but want something with the brilliance of a round.

Radiant cut diamonds are also available in a square shape. The difference simply boils down to the ratio of length to width.

Every other rectangular shaped diamond prior to this version had fewer facets, less attention to detail, and shone far less.


Oval Cut Diamond

The oval cut diamond belongs to the family of fancy cut diamonds. It requires a very experienced cutter and able to minimize the formation of the so-called bow tie that normally forms in the center of the stone with areas that do not reflect the light appear darker.

An exercise in symmetry and skill that the high-quality cutter must reduce to a minimum. Symmetry is therefore the most important aspect: its length in relation to the width must be around 1.3 (L / W = 3).

With the same quality (color, purity and degree of cut) it can cost up to 25/30% less than the round brilliant cut.


Heart Cut Diamond

The heart cut diamond is part of the so-called fancy cuts. Only a highly skilled diamond cutter can achieve the right symmetry and proportions.

Symmetry plays a very important role. The two halves of the heart should be identical, with round but not prominent lobes. The central slit should be deep enough to make the heart shape distinct from the well-pointed lower front.

The cut coincides with and derives from the round brilliant cut but with the underlying pavilion offset from its half. The upper board should be between 53 and 63% and the depth between 58 and 63%. The stone thus cut will be of extraordinary brilliance and beauty.

However, the cut remains one of the most difficult among the many existing.


Asscher Cut Diamond

The Asscher cut diamond is an octagonal diamond with layered facets. The Asscher cut features a deep pavilion and a high crown, offering an unusual brilliance which is an important part of its characteristic charm.

This type of cut was created by the Asscher family, whose members make up the oldest and most legendary cutting shop in the world, having cut the famous Cullinan Diamond of over three thousand carats in 1908, the different sections of which are part of the treasury of the Royals of Great Britain.

There are two types of Asscher cuts: there is the standard Asscher cut designed in 1902 with 58 facets and there is the Royal Asscher cut designed after almost a hundred years with 74 facets and which absorbs light from every angle, creating an infinite effect. mirror, a kaleidoscope designed to catch the eye with the brilliance of a round cut and the intricacy of the cleverly constructed angles of an emerald cut.


Pear Cut Diamond

The pear cut diamond, also known as pear cut is in fact a fancy cut derived by modification from the brilliant cut. Its distinctive silhouette is easily recognizable and much loved and makes it different from any other cut.

It is a cut entrusted to an expert cutter for symmetry requests such as the dimensions that must correspond to a parameter between length and width of 1.75 the positioning of the pointed part of the underlying pavilion, called the “culet”, which must be exactly in the center of the upper table; the dimensions of the two parts, of the two wings, which form the cut must be exactly the same with respect to the center to enter the concept of ideal cut.

As well as what is called the “bow tie” effect, that is the two non-reflective internal motifs inherent in the structure of the cut due to its geometry, must be limited as much as possible.

The most vulnerable part of a pear cut diamond is the tip. Given the extreme hardness of the diamond, it is equally extremely fragile, therefore its protection must be well designed during the construction of a jewel.


Trilliant Cut Diamond

Trilliant cut diamond, in the equi-triangular shape with curved, soft corners, with at least 50 facets, is extremely capable of enhancing the brightness and brilliance of the Diamond.

The ideal cut should have one third of its weight above the waistband and two thirds below. Cut in this way, it gives off an intense sparkle, a brightness that makes it truly unique even for large stones.

The origin of the most beautiful Trilliant cut dates back to over a hundred years ago, always in the legendary Asscher cutting shop in Amsterdam.


Princess Cut Diamond

Princess cut diamond is the best known of the mixed cuts. Its square shape made up of the brilliant-cut crown and the stepped pavilion makes it very special.

The origins of the Princess cut date back to the early 1970s. Its square profile across the board reveals the characteristic cross motif that sets it apart.

A cut that thanks to the brightness and brilliance that distinguishes it among the cut diamonds. It has a very high number of facets and, for this reason, it is particularly suitable for stones with clear and transparent colors such as diamonds.


Marquise Cut Diamond

Marquise-cut diamond was developed in France in 1740, it is said in honor of the Marquise De Pompadour, a lover of King Louis XV, because its outline resembled the shape of his mouth.


History also tells us that the British King Edward VII called her, as she is still called, Navette in memory of the hull of his racing yachts.The difficulties for a cutter who is not experienced are highlighted by the characteristics of the ideal cut: symmetry.

Symmetry is a key component to highlight the brilliance and brilliance of the diamond; the facets have the function of mirroring each other to create that fantastic effect that only a diamond can give.

Just as in the pear cut, the most vulnerable parts are the two tips located at the end of the length and for which their protection must be well designed in the design phase of a jewel.

The ideal ratio of length to width should be 2: 1.


Baguette Cut Diamond

The rectangular step cut diamond now called baguette diamond has been known since at least the mid-16th century.

It was in the 20th century that the term “baguette” was used in English to refer to this type of cut as we know it today.

Legend has it that some cutters called it baguette referring to the name of the long loaf with which the French call their bread.

Baguettes are small diamonds, usually rectangular, step-cut with straight or tapered edges. Some baguettes are nearly square, while others have a length-to-width ratio of 5:1 or even longer.


Emerald Cut Diamond

The emerald cut diamond has a rectangular or square shape with truncated corners, it is actually octagonal. It is a cut that belongs to the so-called step family and is made up of 57 facets that highlight the light, brilliance and color of the stone.

The octagonal shape makes it ideal for diamonds of great beauty and carat.In general, it does not easily hide any internal characteristics of the diamond due to the large upper table and therefore the choice of the cutter always falls on stones without obvious impurities.

It is reported that in 1942 in the Gran Sabana region of Venezuela a large rough diamond was discovered which was named Liberator in honor of Simon Bolivar.

The Liberator rough diamond weighed 155 carats and turned out to be a D-color diamond of exceptional quality and beauty that was eventually cut and made into four faceted diamonds in 1944.

Three of these diamonds were emerald-cut with weights of 39.80, 18. 12 and 8.93 carats and the smallest diamond was a marquise cut with a weight of 1.44 carats.