In praise of ... Solanum tuberosum

In the wild, it is a package of poisonous alkaloids. Stone age agronomists nurtured it, modified its genome and turned it into a staple in the Andes more than 8,000 years ago. Four hundred years ago, Spanish conquistadors brought it to Europe as a curiosity. Milliners used the flowers, soldiers carried it as animal feed and the people of Besançon were convinced that it spread leprosy. Yet, in the past 300 years, the potato has become the world's biggest non-grain staple. It took a trick by Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette - they ostentatiously guarded a court crop - to make suspicious Parisians salivate for potage du Barry and potatoes parmentier. In the last two centuries, growers have developed 3,000 varieties and introduced the crop to almost every human habitat. The uber-tuber is hardy, versatile and nourishing. It can be cloned or grown from seed, it may be roasted, fried, baked, boiled or turned into flour, and it can be kept through the winter. It can be served as soup, soufflé, main course, side dish or even as a vodka chaser. King Edward, Desiree, Maris Piper and the other 80 varieties of potato grown in Britain contain almost all the vitamins, proteins, carbohydrates and micronutrients necessary for survival. The tuber's blandness may be its strength: dieters may disapprove, but does anybody actively dislike its taste? The United Nations declared 2008 the International Year of the Potato. The celebration is on the wane, but Solanum tuberosum waxes stronger than ever.