Two Ways To Remove Paint From Old Bricks

May 31, 1985|By Bob Vila.

Q--The previous owner of my old home painted the brick exterior white. I would like to remove this paint. Is this a complicated job? Can I do it myself or could I damage the bricks?

A--There are two basic ways to remove paint from bricks; sandblasting and chemical removers. Before doing anything, I would try to determine the kind of brick that`s under the paint. Today brick is vitrified--fired at tremendously high temperatures--and is able to withstand just about anything. But very old brick--and you may have this on your home--was often fired on the job at relatively cool temperatures (this is called field brick). This material can be pitted and otherwise damaged during the removal procedure.

You might talk with a brick dealer or local building code people, or even call a local mason`s hall to determine what`s best for your house.

Although sandblasting will give you instant gratification, beware--it can do untold damage to many masonry finishes. Chemicals do work to remove some paints, but if the brick is porous, paint residue simply can`t be totally removed. Contact a reputable contractor for best results.

Q--I have a door that sticks. One of the hinge screws was loose and I tightened that, but I still have the problem. Any suggestions?

A--Tightening the screw is a step in the right direction. You might have alleviated the problem a bit. The next step is to determine exactly where the door is sticking. Check the jamb all around--top and sides--and look for scuff or binding marks. If you find them, drive a 10d finishing nail into the jamb at that point. This will pull back the framework and should allow the door to close.

If this isn`t the problem, check the door and stop molding on the hinge side; a door often will stick there, jamming against the molding. There should be space between the door and stop molding when the door is closed.

If there isn`t space, move the molding just a bit by tapping it with a hammer, using a block of wood to absorb the shock and prevent denting. The molding will move, but the nails will be bent a bit. Nail it in its new position with 4d finishing nails. If the door still sticks after the treatment above, it is too late and must be planed down.

Q--I had thought my house was nicely buttoned up with insulation, but I had an energy audit done by a local utility representative, and he suggested that the heating/air conditioning ducts be insulated. What`s your opinion?

A--Insulating your ducts is worthwhile. In the winter, when the ducts carry warmed air, some of it can be lost through the metal--this is called ``heat loss.`` Your furnace has to work harder to maintain your thermostat temperature.

In the summer, when the ducts are carrying cooled air, heat can migrate

(heat always seeks a cooler area) into the air conditioning ducts. As a result, your air conditioner must move harder to keep you cool. Duct insulation blocks the heat--keeps it inside the ducts in winter and out in summer. Wrapping ducts with insulation is a fairly simple project, requiring a utility knife, a tape measure, a straightedge, gloves and aluminum pressure- sensitive tape. Look for duct insulation that has a vapor barrier. This will keep your ducts from sweating in the summer.


``This Old House,`` funded by Owens-Corning, will answer questions about rehabbing and renovating. Send questions in care of Know-how, Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611. Letters cannot be answered personally.