Artificial hair integrations

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Artificial hair displayed on a mannequin

Artificial hair integrations, more commonly known as hair extensions (rarely referred to as a hair hat), add length and/or fullness to human hair.

Hair extensions are methods of lengthening one's hair by incorporating artificial hair or natural hair collected from other individuals. Hair extensions can also be used to protect one's natural hair, especially in the African American community. These hair techniques are advanced and are used to change the hair drastically without looking unrealistic.

Techniques for hair extensions[edit]

hair extension
Bonding and sealing extensions
Clip-in or Clip On Hair Extensions [1]


Bonding and Sealing Extensions



The fusion method delivers one of the most versatile and most natural-looking weaves on the market. With this technique a machine similar to a hot glue gun is used to attach human hair extensions to individual strands of one's natural hair of about 1/8 to 1/4 inch squared sections for a truly authentic look. Another option for fusion attachments is using hair which is pre-tipped with a keratin adhesive. A heat clamp is then used to melt the adhesive to attach the extension hair to the natural hair. Fusion weave allows washing hair frequently and the use of regular hair products such as hair gels. Nonetheless this technique is very time consuming because it takes about 3 or more hours.They need repositioning every 2–3 months as the natural hair grows.Because of the glue and the heat this method is more damaging hair than other methods.

Infusion Hair Extensions

Hair Infusion Extensions are the trademarked hair extensions technique of Rodolfo Valentin hair stylist of New York City. Hair Infusion Extensions are known for providing safety to the natural hair since this technique does not uses heat or any other appliances to be linked to the natural hair other than a keratin based adhesive. Hair infusion is only a reusable hair extension technique.[2]

Micro Rings (Micro Loops)

Micro rings or micro loop hair extensions use small metal rings (usually aluminium) lined with silicone with the extension hair attached. They are fixed to small sections of natural hair and tightened using a special tool that clamps the loop around the natural hair.

The micro loops are designed to be small enough so that they are not visible in normal use. They need repositioning every 2–3 months as the natural hair grows and the micro rings move away from the scalp.


The glued netting process near completion

Netting is a technique which involves braiding natural tresses under a thin, breathable net that serves as a flat surface onto which stylists can weave extensions.This method requires the use of hair net or cap to be placed over the person's hair that has been braided. Netting provides more flexibility than track placement because the stylist is not limited to sewing extensions to a braid. With netting there is the option of sewing the hair wefts onto the net or gluing. This technique is not as time-consuming when compared to the other hair techniques because it takes around 2–4 hours to complete.

Lace Fronts
Section of a Lace front used to close a weave(also called a lace or closure)

The most recent development in weave extensions are lace fronts. Lace fronts are made from a nylon mesh material formed into a cap that is then hand-ventilated by knotting single strands of hair into the tiny openings of the cap, giving the hair a more natural and authentic continuity than typical extensions. Furthermore,the extension units can be woven in or attached to a person's hairline with special adhesives. To ensure a proper fit, head measurements are taken into account with this type of weave. A lace frontal is best placed by a professional since more advanced weaving and hair extensions are used. This method is commonly used by women around the world because it makes it possible to have access to a certain part of their scalp and at the same time giving a natural and attractive look.


This is one of the most commonly used methods as it is quite fast and lasts considerably longer than the other techniques. However, It does not allow for use of regular hair maintenance. Tracking involves the braiding of a person's natural hair. In order to prevent the hair from being bumpy or uneven the hair is sewn horizontally across the head from one side to the other starting from the bottom. The braided hair is then sewn down and the hair weft extensions are sewn onto the braids. A weave can consist of a few tracks, or the whole head can be braided for a full head weave. With a full head weave, the braids are sewn down or covered with a net. Extensions are then sewn to the braids. The number of tracks used depends on the desired look.[citation needed]


The idea of hair weaves and extensions first came about in the early days of Ancient Egypt, where men and women utilized extensions in their hair to portray a more elegant appearance.[3] By the late 17th century, wigs in various shapes and sizes became a latest fashion trend. Hair weaves in particular, did not grow interest until the 1950s; even during that time celebrities had been the only ones using them. When the “long, disco-haired” era evolved there started to become a widespread of hair weave. Since that era, hair weave has only become more popular.[4] Most human hair weaves come from parts of Asia and India.This is because Indian hair is easily blended with hair of women in other countries.[5]

Final product of fully installed human hair weave extensions

Most popular hair wefts[edit]

The most popular and commonly available form of hair is known as premium hair. It is sold in the majority of beauty supply stores worldwide. The roots and tips of hairs are interwoven in premium hair which causes tangling. This is due to the opposing cuticle layers catching onto one another. However; as it is the most inexpensive type of hair, it is a best seller.

Premium hair comes in two types:

  • "Tangle-free" premium hair: this is obtained by chemically removing the cuticles using an acid bath. This process reduces the friction among hairs, leaving the remains tangle-free hair. In order to give the appearance of natural healthy hair, a laminate is applied to the hair to give it a shiny and silky look.

Synthetic hair[edit]

Synthetic hair is made of a wide array of different [synthetic fibers]. Synthetic hair, just like human hair, comes in weave (weft) and single strands (bulk) for braids. Synthetic hair does not last as long as human hair because it gets quickly damaged by friction and heat. The quality of hair varies greatly. Depending on quality, it may never look like human hair, as it can be stiff and move differently from human hair. Synthetic hair is much less expensive than human hair. Heating appliances such as curling irons and straightening combs generally should never be used on most types of synthetic hair. There are some newer versions of synthetic hair that are more resistant, human-like hair that can be heat processed allowing for heat styling.

  • Futura

Futura is a type of synthetic fiber that can withstand heat up to 400 degrees F, and can actually outlast human hair. It is very similar to human hair given it is tangle-free and has a natural sheen. It can be straightened or curled, however, it takes longer to set; but futura cannot be colored. It is sometimes sold as a human hair blend. [6]

Human hair[edit]


A packet of 10-inch premium hair

The cuticle is responsible for much of the mechanical strength of the hair fiber. A healthy cuticle is more than just a protective layer, as the cuticle also controls the water content of the fiber. Much of the shine that makes healthy hair so attractive is due to the cuticle. In the hair industry, the only way to obtain the very best hair (with cuticle intact and facing the same direction) is to use the services of "hair collectors," who cut the hair directly from people's heads, and bundle it as ponytails. This hair is called virgin cuticle hair, or just cuticle hair. Most human hair used for weaves and wigs is obtained from Asia (perhaps most often China, India, and Korea).[7]

Human hair industry[edit]

The selling of human hair for weaves, wigs, and other hair styling products is an industry that generates hundreds of millions of dollars annually and is growing as a large export economy in some Asian regions, such as India, at a rate of 10-30 percent annually.[8][9] In India, a large portion of the hair is sourced from Hindu temples where hair is donated for religious practices, particularly in honor of the Hindu God Vishnu. This hair is highly sought out for its 'virgin', untreated qualities, as well as its great length. From there the hair is cleaned and the color is removed before being re-dyed for Euro-centric style tastes.[10][11]

In Esther R Berry's research paper, The Zombie Commodity: Hair and the Politics of its Globalization, ideas and concepts related to first and third world identity structures, as well as the concepts of 'ethnic hair' and grotesque beauty ideals are discussed in great detail.[9]

See also the Grotesque.

Color, texture and quality[edit]





  • Silky Straight - Straight and smooth, East Asian like hair.
  • Yaki - Straight, usually mimicking the texture of relaxed Afro-Caribbean hair.
  • European - Straight European hair; less straight than Asian hair. May have a tiny amount of wave.
  • Deep Wave - While generally not a true 'wave', it can be made to look like spiral curls.
  • Loose Deep Wave or Romance Wave - Looser version of the deep wave, softer, more romantic curls.
  • Jheri Curl (sometimes colloquially known as 'nappy tracks') - Usually sold in very short lengths, it is often used to recreate the full 'afro' look.
  • Wet and Wavy, can be packaged as Spanish Wave or Indian Wave - Usually human hair is used, and is either naturally curly or permanently waved to appear so. Characterized as having soft, natural-looking curls that revert to a curly state when wet.


The quality of the hair is often specified.

  • Virgin hair is hair that hasn't been colored or processed in any way. The "virgin hair" is collected by tying off the hair to maintain the direction of the cuticle and then cut. After the hair is cut and collected it can be sewn on a weft, pre-bonded, made into wigs or left in bulk form.
  • Remy is when all of the hair is human plus when 'close to' all of the strands (e.g. in one weft) are strictly organised with the roots in one direction and the tip to the opposite end.
  • Single drawn is of a slightly lower quality than double-drawn hair. The hairs will have up to a 2" difference in the tips; that is, some hairs will be up to 2" shorter than their original lengths.
  • Double drawn indicates that the collected hair of a certain length has all of the shorter hairs in the bundle manually removed twice, hence the 'double' drawn. This means that hair extensions that are double drawn will have (nearly) as many hair strands at one end as the other and appear much thicker and not wispy at the ends. This process is very laborious, and therefore makes the extensions very expensive.

Methods of integration[edit]

A young woman with multi-colored extensions braided into her hair, Brazil.


Invisible Hair Weave is a long lasting method of attaching commercial hair to the natural hair. Application generally takes about an hour. It will last about 8 weeks.


Clip-in wefts, also known as clip-in hair extensions, can be integrated into natural hair to add length and volume. Clip in hair extensions can be purchased for $100 – $200, depending on desired quality. The clip in hair extensions most commonly come in as a long strand of one contoured piece that can be cut into multiple layers for creating separate layers on your head. When you purchase the hair at a beauty supply store, you also have to purchase the clips and sew them on. Once the clips are sewn in, it is recommended that you clip in the hair and visit a stylist, to help create a look that is natural. Clip-in hair extensions make for a more temporary style, and are easily removed.


In the South East Asian Region, the practical method of lengthening-rebondage has been in use since the mid-19th century. The lengthening-rebondage method consists of two treatments. The first treatment consists of rebonding and ironing. The second treatment of lengthening-rebondage involves gentle pulling and tugging of the hair. These two treatments are highly effective in lengthening hair without causing serious damage.


Shampooing and styling of integrations[edit]



The same care taken when shampooing must also be used when styling artificial hair. It's often recommended that the texture of hair purchased should be the style in which the hair is worn. Using heat to straighten curly hair, or to curl straight hair, damages it. The more damage the hair sustains, the shorter the lifespan of the artificial hair.



  1. ^ "Clip-On Hair Extensions". CBC News. Retrieved 29 March 2012. 
  2. ^ "Hair Infusions Extensions". Rodolfo Valentin. Retrieved 19 November 2013. 
  3. ^ Ireland, Kay (21 October 2013). "About Hair Weaves". Livestrong. Retrieved 7 February 2014. 
  5. ^ "Where Do Human Hair Weaves Come From?". Retrieved 8 August 2013. 
  6. ^ "Futura Synthetic Hair & How to Curl It". Retrieved 2014-04-08. 
  7. ^ Stilsen,Jeff._Good Hair_Perf. Chris Rock. Chris Rock Entertainment, HBO Films, 2009.
  8. ^ "Alibaba has hair-raising business plans for India". Business Standard. 2013-12-07. Retrieved 2014-04-08. 
  9. ^ a b
  10. ^ Homa Khaleeli. "The hair trade's dirty secret | Life and style". The Guardian. Retrieved 2014-04-08. 
  11. ^ Name (2013-02-18). "Blog Archive » America’s Booming Market for Human Hair". Columbia News Service. Retrieved 2014-04-08. 

Further reading[edit]