

Ethnic skincare



Darker skin, in general, contains more melanin than lighter skin.

Melanin acts as a protective barrier – great for shielding against the effects of pollution and natural ageing, but not so great for avoiding pigmentation and scarring.

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Here are some of the more specific skincare issues that different ethnicities are likely to face.

South Asian

The most common skincare issue that south Asian women suffer from is hyperpigmentation, with Asia alone accounting for 37 per cent of the overall worldwide sales of skin brightening products.

Hyperpigmentation is caused by UV exposure, hormonal imbalances (usually triggered by stress, pregnancy or medication) or damaged melanocytes.

Melanocytes are cells that produce melanin to protect the skin from the sun or ageing. This increased production of melanin leads to the appearance of hyperpigmentation.

The bad news is that once your skin's been affected by pigmentation it can be hard to fix.

'Correction is very difficult', explains Candice Gardner, education manager at the International Dermal Institute.

'However, it is possible to prevent existing pigmentation from becoming worse by ensuring that your skin is consistently protected from the sun's rays and applying sunscreen daily.'

Dark circles under the eyes are also an ongoing skin concern for many south Asian women.

'Under eye circles are usually down to genetics, but they can also be a result of sun damage', explains leading dermatologist Dr Howard Murad.

'To reduce the darkness or help prevent it, I'd recommend using an eye cream with SPF daily.'


Afro-Caribbean skin produces the most melanin, which gives the skin colour and also acts as a barrier to help protect the skin.

But Candice warns that this doesn't necessarily mean you can skip the sunscreen. 'Don't assume that because your skin is darker and produces more melanin that it cannot be sensitised.

'Often the sensitivity can be felt as the skin is hot, rather than seen, as the redness might not be visible.'

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People with Afro-Caribbean skin are also likely to suffer from dermatosis papulosa nigra (DPN).

'These are small, black, protruding spots that usually appear on the face and neck', explains Dr Murad.

'Although the cause of it is unknown, protection from the sun and applying sunscreen daily can help prevent it.'

Sufferers of DPN can also opt for surgical solutions, such as curettage or cryotherapy to remove the spots.

However, these treatments carry a risk of scarring and skin discolouration.

East Asian

East Asian skin has more melanocytes than fairer skin, which protects the skin from sun damage.

But it is also prone to suffering from brown spots and uneven skin tone.

'Oriental people are more susceptible to pigmentation and, because of their lighter skin tone, it tends to show up more', says Dr Murad.

'Oriental skin is also more sensitive to inflammation so you need to be careful when choosing skincare products and treatments because anything too harsh, like a chemical peel, could cause irritation and will only inflame the skin more.'

East Asian people are also more prone to getting sebaceous keratosis, which is similar to DPN and usually appears around the eyes.


'Hispanic skin is very similar to oriental skin', explains Dr Murad.

'However, even though you are less likely to suffer from sebaceous keratosis, the lighter skin tone can mean that pigmentation and dark spots show up more.'

Melasma, which causes dark patches to appear around the face, is also a common problem amongst Hispanic women.

This is usually triggered by pregnancy, but it can also occur with age.

Other contributing factors are genetics, hormone levels and UV exposure.

In this case, prevention is better than cure and Dr Murad suggests taking extra precautions when out in the sun.

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'Applying a sunscreen with a SPF factor of at least 15 can help prevent dark spots and skin conditions like melasma from appearing or becoming worse.'

Mixed ethnicity

Mixed race skin differs vastly from person to person, and skin issues can vary depending on how light or dark your skin is.

'Over time, I've seen an increasing number of clients come to me with mixed race skin', says Dr Murad.

'Dark skin is usually more pigmented and oily and light skin is the opposite, which means mixed race skin can be a combination of both.'

Because of this, mixed race skin can also suffer from uneven skin tone and dark patches around the face, all of which can be avoided through proper sun protection and regular exfoliation.

The good news

Although people with ethnic skins are prone to suffering from pigmentation and dark patches, dermatologists and skincare specialists all agree that the darker your skin is, the slower it will age.

'The higher level of skin pigment (melanin) in dark skin is the primary factor in defending the skin from ageing UV light from the sun', explains Candice.

'Secondly, dark skin produces a higher level of lipids (natural protective oils), meaning the skin has a more compact, denser protective barrier.

'And thirdly, the pH is more acidic, which means skin barrier recovery is quicker.

'The result is skin that copes well with its environment and will show signs of ageing at a much slower rate than compared to Caucasian skin.'

The bottom line

Sun exposure is the main cause of a lot of skincare problems – and it can also aggravate and alleviate existing problems, such as pigmentation and melisma.

Taking precautions when out in the sun is essential to keeping your skin safe and healthy, so remember to apply a sun cream with an SPF factor of at least 15 every day.

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Want to know more about ethnic beauty?



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