Dropping Knowledge: Cufflinks


When you think about it, we really owe our friendly French neighbors from across the Atlantic for some of the finest things in life: French kissing, the French press, French toast, French fries. Okay, maybe not, but we do have the French to thank for one of the most regal of all shirting details: the French cuff.

It was during the early sixteenth century that the great-great-great-grandfather of the modern dress shirt first popped up on the backs of European men. The basic shape was there, but the actual features of the shirt were quite different than what we’re used to today. Details like cuffs that back then were nothing more than an open slit that could be sealed off with a piece of string. This crude cuff sufficed as men adjusted to the new style, yet by the reign of French King Louis XIV, gents decided enough was enough and the cuff was given a much needed facelift. Out went the string, and in its place came newfangled "sleeve buttons," tiny glass forms with a chain running between them to keep it all together. Pretty soon men started getting flashy with their buttons, graduating from simple glass ovals to full-on gaudy jewelry. Diamonds, precious stones, gold, mother of pearl, engraved emblems - the possibilities were endless - and suddenly a whole new industry was born. Cufflinks lent a bit of personality to otherwise straightforward outfits, and by the 1800’s they had become ubiquitous with men donning different types of cufflink to reflect their respective styles.

As the decades and technology advanced, new production methods were introduced leading to a peak in the popularity of the ornamental cuff. Around the twentieth century, though, things began to relax a bit for menswear in general and the formality that once reigned began to fall out of favor. As men, and their fashion, became more nonchalant cufflinks were one of the first things to go. Adding to their demise was events like the Great Depression and World War II, which led to a drop in both raw materials for manufacturers and income for consumers. Naturally, the more practical sewn-on button came to replace ornamental cufflinks on men’s shirting. Thanks to this new exclusivity, the cufflink suddenly became a sign of status, as those in highfalutin professions would strut around wearing real diamond and gold on their wrists, while those in less fortunate positions would wear plastic or enamel "faux" cufflinks, or simply forego them all together.

By the late 1900’s, French cuff dress shirts were in the minority, replaced by the more cost-effective and understated button-cuff casual button-up. But the style wasn’t completely removed from public consciousness as those that continued to sport cufflinks, did so proudly, instantly signifying a man of stature and importance. Nowadays, as formal attire is back on the upswing, cufflinks are experiencing a bit of a comeback, allowing men to show off a bit of attitude without becoming tacky. Next time you stop by your favorite shop, do yourself a favor, grab a dress shirt with some French cuffs and a nice pair of cufflinks, you’ll be one step closer to making all your friends think you’re some kind of oil baron. Or at least the best dressed guy around.
