'Flooding' dog with scary noises can have wrong effect

Dog phobias: Put yourself in your pet's paws and imagine being locked in a room with spiders

'Flooding' your dog with the noises that scare it can make it aggressive. There are other solutions.

My dog startles easily to various noises such as doorbells, dropped pots and pans or the bark of another dog. These things cause her to tuck her tail and flee while barking frantically. Someone suggested that I tie her to a secure banister, preventing escape. I could then repeatedly expose her to noises until she realized that there was nothing to fear. I did try this once, but my dog seemed more agitated than before. Should I continue with this idea?

Repeatedly exposing a dog that cannot escape is a technique called flooding. This controversial strategy is full of risk. Psychology textbooks often describe flooding as “extremely stressful,” and with the potential to back fire, especially if executed incorrectly.

By putting yourself in the dog’s paws, it becomes clear why this might be. Imagine overcoming a phobia such as a fear of spiders. “Curing” the fear involved being locked in a spider-filled room. No amount of screaming, begging or pleading would help you escape the terror — locked in until you get over it.

Perhaps this might work for some. Others quickly realize that stomping spiders to death is a viable option. They become aggressive, to spiders and potentially toward anyone in close proximity.

Research by Herron and his team at the University of Pennsylvania found that forced exposure also triggers aggression in dogs. A full 12 per cent of dogs reacted aggressively to this strategy. While owners understandably want to help cure their dog of fear, no one wants to create more severe problems in the process.

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Try using desensitization instead. Dogs also face their fears, but do so gradually. Animals are taught to relax. Treats and other positive activities are included in the rehabilitation program, ensuring the therapy remains as close to stress free as possible.

In the case of noise phobias, the volume begins low. As the dog demonstrates that it is comfortable with various sounds, volume gradually increases.

With practice and repetition, the animal learns that these sounds offer no threat. These gentler processes are not necessarily slower. This is especially true when factoring in the additional time required for fixing unintended behaviour problems that may come from flooding.

My dog cannot seem to learn the sit command. She has long legs and a skinny hind end. I understand that sitting is awkward for her. However, I would like her to learn. Using a food lure up over her back has not worked. We tried waiting for her to sit on her own, prepared to reward her spur of the moment. That also has not been effective, as she almost never sits. Is there another way?

There are dozens of ways owners can teach a sit. Luring and capturing usually do the trick. Occasionally, a different approach is required.

Start by ensuring that the dog is not suffering from any hip issues. Dogs in pain often refuse to sit.

Next, move your dog to an area with a no-skid surface. Carpeted areas work well. Dogs with long legs and narrow bottoms often slide on hard surfaces.

Go back to using a food lure. A food lure is simply a piece of food that the dog follows with its nose. Use the lure to encourage the dog to crawl under a low coffee table.

As the dog crawls out from under the table, move the lure up. This way, the dog’s head comes up, but the presence of a table prevents the dog’s backside from lifting up off the ground. Reward the dog while it is in the sit position. With practice, she will learn that sit means sit.
