How to Distress Veneer

Properly marked and dented veneer can simulate the appearance of aged wood.


Distressed surfaces lend a vintage or antique feel to newer wooden furniture and trim, and contribute to a rustic and lived-in atmosphere. Distressing veneer is more an art form than a skill or science, and the end result can be pronounced or subtle, depending on your tools, taste and techique. You can use nearly any tool to mark, dent or otherwise distress a surface, but certain tools and techniques are more effective at distressing veneer.


Heat some or all of the old veneer with a steam iron if you plan to remove it. Fill the iron with water and heat it to its highest setting. Place a cloth over the veneer surface, and then place your iron over the cloth. Move the iron in a circular motion while the heat and steam work the veneer loose, then remove the iron and cloth. Pry up a small section of veneer with a putty knife and continue working the putty knife between the wood and the heated veneer.


Sand the surface with coarse or medium grit sandpaper. Apply light pressure to roughen and weather the surface. If you also removed some veneer with a steam iron and putty knife, sand the surface where the remaining veneer meets the uncovered wood to smooth the boundaries between these surfaces.


Chop away edges with a small hatchet. Chop lightly across sharp corners and edges, and swing parallel to the wood. The goal is only to eliminate edges, not to chop deeply or directly into the wood.


Scrape away loose fibers and further roughen the exposed surface with your scraper or wire brush. Apply heavy force for a worn, weathered look. Use lighter force to soften the surface more than distress it. Start with light or medium force and observe the result. If the veneer isn't distressed enough, increase your force slightly until you achieve the texture you prefer.


Nick and dent the surface. Place a chisel at an angle to the veneer's surface and tap it lightly forward with a ball-peen hammer. Use this method on larger surfaces to simulate splitting wood by creating one or two deep, long gouges. On smaller pieces, avoid large marks and create less prominent scratches by tapping the chisel only a few times. Strike the surface lightly with your hammer to create a few shallow dents.


Simulate a termite trail or “worm wood” look by pressing and tracing the tip of an awl across the surface. You can also grip an awl firmly in one or both hands and create random dings in the surface by stabbing downward into the surface repeatedly. If you don't have an awl, use a nail or ice pick to achieve a similar effect.


Sand the surface again, using 80-grit sandpaper, to remove any loose edges and blend the woodworking. If you prefer a smoother surface, sand it once with 80-grit sandpaper and then sand it again with 100-grit sandpaper.


Wipe the surface free of dust and loose fibers with a damp cloth. Allow it to dry thoroughly and then brush on paint or stain, depending on your preference. Allow the stain to dry and sand the surface once more with wet black sandpaper. Allow it to dry again.


Apply a sealer by brushing it over the entire surface and allowing it to dry. This will protect your finished project from damage or discoloration, and preserve the results of your hard work.

Things You Will Need

  • Awl
  • Scraper
  • Wire brush
  • Hatchet
  • Ball-peen hammer
  • Steam iron
  • Cloths
  • Putty knife
  • 80-grit sandpaper
  • 100-grit sandpaper
  • Wet black sandpaper
  • Paint brushes
  • Sealer


  • Work in a well-ventilated area when using paint, stain or sealer.

Photo Credits

  • Jupiterimages/Comstock/Getty Images
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