The diagram at left indicates the running stitch that is used for everything made by your punch embroidery needle!

All punch needles work alike. The difference between them is the handle design, and the way the needle length is adjusted. This tutorial is for all needles regardless of their brand.

Set your loop adjuster for the size yarn loop you desire for the front side of your fabric. The loop will be one-half the length of your exposed needle.

Please read through the complete tutorial before using it...and, if you wish, print a copy for your workbasket while you're at it.

Scroll completely down the page so you see all the diagrams before reading the copy.



1. Push the threader into the NEEDLE SHAFT at the NEEDLEPOINT and completely THROUGH ITS HANDLE until it comes out the opposite end of the needle.

2. Place the end of the yarn into the THREADER LOOP and and pull
the threader back out of the needle.

3. Pull the yarn DOWNWARD out of the threader tip end and remove the yarn from the threader.


4. Insert the threader through the NEEDLE
EYE from the ROUNDED side of the needle tip.

4a. Place the end of the yarn into the threader and pull the threader back out of the needle eye.

5.Pull the yarn DOWNWARD out of the threader tip and remove the yarn from the threader.

6. Threading is complete.


7. Hold your needle low on its handle, where most handles are CONCAVED to fit the fingers.

On all needles the THUMBNAIL  should be ALIGNED with the 'OPEN SCOOP' side of the needle tip.

8. The needle itself should have the 'open scoop side' facing outward (AWAY) from the palm of your hand.

9. Set your needle on your cotton/polyester fabric with the needle facing to the LEFTof the direction you will be punching. (To the right if you are left-handed).

9a. The SIDE of the needle tip will LEAD when you move the needle along your punching row.


10. Punch the needle through the fabric until the handle HITS the fabric...

10a. then lift the needle JUST to the SURFACE of the fabric...(do not lift it above the surface, it will pull the yarn out)...

10b. move THE NEEDLE JUST ONE NEEDLE WIDTH and punch again. Continue for the length of your row - about 1 inch.

10c. Repeat until your row is completed. Do this SLOWLY until you are familiar with the movement. You will pick up speed quickly.

11. For the second row, move your needle so the ROUNDED  side of
the NEEDLE TIP is NEXT to the row you just punched and the SCOOP SIDE is facing the UNPUNCHED area.
Punch a second row alongside
in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION of the first row. When that row is finished,
punch another row in the direction of your first row of stitches.
This will make rows of punch alongside one another until your area
is completely filled in.

12. Each stitch should be the length of ONE NEEDLE WIDTH regardless
of the s\SIZE NEEDLE  you are using. If you are using a smaller needle, your stitches will automatically be smaller...a big
needle means bigger stitches, etc.


13. No matter how long the loop is you are making on the front of the fabric, your stitch on the backside should measure one needle width in length.


14. When you have finished with a yarn color, make a COUPLE OF STITCHES into the punched area and PLACE YOUR FINGER on last yarn stitch to hold it in place while pulling your needle away from the fabric...cut the yarn. That's it!

Never punch a row of stitches and give up! What you see is NOT punch embroidery! It is only a small punched sample. The yarn (take a look under a light) has fibers that protrude from it. As the yarn is punched into the fabric the yarn fibers will begin locking onto one another. When the design is finished just rub your hand over the front FINISHED side of the design to lock the design even more.
Always practice the stitches before beginning a first project - on 50% COTTON/50% POLYESTER. Use the practice fabric that came with your needle. and when finished just pull the stitches out from the backside...then scrape the fabric with your fingernail to close the weave in the fabric and punch again if you like.

Make an inch-long row of stitches with your needle set on its 3RD SETTING. Then punch another row alongside in the opposite direction with the BACKSIDE of your needle facing the PRECEEDING row. Then punch a row in the first direction again. Keep this up until your have punched enough rows to have a section about an inch wide and an inch long. It takes this much for you to see what punch embroidery is all about! If you don't punch a sample of this size before doing anything else, you are going to believe your stitches are wrong...or that they will just pull out. That is wrong! The stitches start locking one another in when you get enough of them punched. If you will notice the little hairs that stick out from a strand of yarn, you will see how they lock in. Those fibers catch onto one another and become permanent (though you WILL be able to PULL them out, they will NOT come out by themselves.) YOU can throw your project in the washer and dryer and it will come out looking better than when it went in!
Trust me. Your punched stitches will hold, and hold well! I have a 14 year-old sweater that is completely worn out, but the punched giraffe on it still looks like new!

If not, please phone 1-800-272-1966 to give us a chance to make sure you know how to use your punch needle. We don't mind helping, and you will feel better when you understand the instructions fully. Please let us help if you need clarification.

E-mail: sales@punchneedlemarketplace.com
Telephone: 1-800-272-1966 or 269-471-1111