Q: My Bermuda lawn is filled with henbit and dandelions in spite of the fact that I applied pre-emergents the first week of September and again in October. Broad-leafed weed killers don't seem to get them. Any advice?

A: This spring has been the worst I've seen for weeds, and last summer's drought is a reason.

Mowing alone gets rid of most henbit, though it probably has deposited seeds for next winter. Dandelions are more challenging, but I have always had luck using Portrait granules, a pre-emergent, and a broad-leafed weed killer containing 2,4-D.

It often takes one to two weeks for broad-leafed weed killers to kill their target weeds.

Q: How can I rebuild my Bermuda lawn so it's thick and dense this summer? I would also like to seed new Bermuda this year. When should I do that?

A: The most critical issues for turf management are water, nitrogen and mowing. Keep the grass active by watering as it dries (abiding by any curtailments). Less frequent, but deeper soakings are best.

Apply an all-nitrogen or high-nitrogen fertilizer in April. Mow at the recommended height. Tall grass quickly weakens, and that allows weeds to get a good start.

Seeding needs to be done after soils warm - probably mid- or late April. Hopefully, however, you don't want to sow Bermuda seeds into the existing and thin turf. Because the seed is so tiny, new seedings require good soil preparation before planting, and that involves tilling and raking. It's almost impossible to do that within an existing lawn. It's always better to transplant plugs of existing Bermuda from healthy areas into the voids, and that can be done anytime after mid-April.

Q: I saw a yellow-fruiting yaupon holly tree in a nursery. Do they do as well as the red type?

A: The one along my driveway has become a lovely tree, loaded with fruit every winter. But when the fruit turns from green to golden yellow, it looks like all the lower branches have yellowed from getting too dry.

I prefer the standard red-fruiting types, but this one's a nice novelty.

