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Look for biggest spring-flowering bulbs.


Bigger is best when it comes to buying spring-flowering bulbs. The smaller the bulb, the smaller the flower.

When you shop for spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils, tulips and hyacinths, look for bulbs that are firm -- no soft spots -- and have a smooth skin with no injuries.

Even though it's dry, you should get daffodil, crocus and hyacinth bulbs in the ground. Keep them watered during this drought because water is the best fertilizer you can give any plant. Watering the bulbs regularly when there is no rain helps them establish roots in their new homes.

Fall is also the ideal time to divide and replant existing bulbs. When you dig up bulbs you want to divide, you should see clearly defined ways to separate them. Look for bulbets, or smaller bulbs, growing off the sides of the main bulb. Replant and thoroughly water.Tip: Bulbs can be divided right after they bloom, too. Keep the foliage intact and let it die down to replenish the bulbs for future blooms.

Tulip bulbs should be planted in December when the ground is colder.

Here's what Jim May with the Virginia Green Industry Council has to say about spring-flowering bulbs:

CHOOSE MAJOR AND MINOR BULBS.. Daffodils, tulips and hyacinths are the major spring bulbs, but don't overlook minor gems like the snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis), winter aconite (Eranthius cilicica), windflower (Anemone blanda), Siberian squill (Scilla siberica), grape hyacinth (Muscari botryoides) and others.

Many of these less-common plants bloom very early before trees leaf out and thrive in the shade, making them ideal early spring flowers. Many of these minor bulbs spread rapidly, forming drifts of color in the garden.

PLANT THEM RIGHT. Choose a planting site in full sun, but with protection from the hottest midday summer sun if possible. Planting under or near large deciduous trees that cast filtered shade works well.

A few plants that withstand partial shade include daffodils, some tulips, some hardy lilies, some crocus, Siberian squill (Scilla), checkered lily (Fritillaria) and some windflowers (Anemone).

Bulbs should be planted in well-drained soil. Till soil deeply and incorporate three pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 (Kathy's tip: use compost) per 100 square feet as you are preparing the soil. If planting bulbs individually, toss a small amount of bulb starter fertilizer -- or compost -- in the bottom of each hole before placing the bulb.

Recommended planting depths are given to the bottom of the bulb. Pick up a depth chart where you buy bulbs, but in general, for hyacinths, plant 6 inches deep; tulips, 6 inches or deeper; and daffodils, 6 to 8 inches deep. Smaller bulbs in these groups and the minor bulbs are planted shallower. Large bulbs should be spaced four to six inches apart, small bulbs one to two inches.

MASSES CATCH YOUR EYE. For a greater effect, plant bulbs in clusters or irregular masses rather than singly. For a grouping to bloom at the same time and height, they should be planted at exactly the same depth. A beautiful backdrop is created when minor bulbs are grown with larger bulbs. Plant the large bulbs first, fill the hole in to the appropriate level for the minor bulbs and then plant them.

WATER AND MULCH. Water well and cover the bulb bed with a layer of organic mulch. Mulch should be placed over bulbs planted very late in the season to extend the root development period. Remember that the fall and early winter is when bulbs do a lot of growing, especially roots.

Water is needed particularly during bud and foliage growth. If rainfall is scarce, apply additional water. Use a soaker hose or otherwise apply water at the soil line, rather than overhead sprinkling.

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