THERE are so many jobs to do in spring, from pruning and planting to digging and mulching, that often the lawn is neglected.

Lawns are frequently the focal point of the garden and make a neat, defining edge to beds and borders. So when lawn edges become overgrown and tatty, it can have an adverse effect on the look of the whole garden.

If the grass is not frozen or waterlogged, now might be a good time to have a walk in your garden and examine the state of your lawn edges. They are fairly easy to repair and it doesn't have to be too timeconsuming a task.

If you have a damaged lawn edge first cut out a rectangle of turf incorporating the affected grass with a half moon edger, using a straight edge such as a plank of wood as a guide. Then turn the turf around so that the damaged edge is nearer the middle of the lawn.

The gap created by the jagged edge which is now further into the lawn should be filled with garden soil, sifted to a fine tilth. Then you need to firmand level it to make sure it is flush with the surrounding grass.

Sow grass seed on top, water well and cover the hole with clear plastic sheeting until the seeds have germinated, to help retain moisture and keep birds at bay.


Use a spring-tine rake to remove winter debris, break up small amounts of thatch and lift the grass leaves and weed stems. Raking can be quite hard work and you can hire special raking machines which are less arduous. Reseeding worn areas and bare patches should be done towards the end of March or in April if the weather is extremely cold and the ground soggy.

If the whole lawn looks thin with lots of bare patches, try oversowing it with grass seed of a similar type.

You may also want to flatten your lawn or remove any lumps and bumps which have appeared over the years.

To do this, cut out the turf, remove the soil underneath to get rid of the bump and then replace it. Fill in any cracks with sifted soil and water in well. Bare patches can either be reseeded or returfed.

A good feed and water will also make an amazing difference to the grass, particularly if you use a mechanical distributor. A fertiliser containing both quick-acting and slow-acting nitrogen is best in spring or summer.

Many gardeners will notice big patches of moss on their lawn, a problem exacerbated by wet weather, poor drainage and lack of light. To tackle this, improve aeration by regular spiking with a fork.

If shade is a factor, consider reducing the canopies of any nearby trees.

Alternatively, if you have moss in a shady area under trees and you don't have much time for lawn maintenance, it might be worth-while encouraging the moss in these areas by removing the grass.

If your grass is in great condition, moss is unlikely to get a foothold.

Feed it in spring or early summer and water well before it shows signs of stress from drought. Wormcasts are a problem for many and need removing from the lawn with a stiff broom before the first mow.

When the grass is 3in (8cm) high, you can cut it for the first time. But make sure the mower blades are sharp and set them high. Also, take account of the weather. If it's wet or frosty, delay the first cut.

And don't leave your clippings on the lawn at this time of year.