It's About Time: New Exhibit Celebrates Black Designers

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"The talent level of black designers is no different than an Oscar de la Renta or Alexander McQueen, but the color of our skin gets in our way, unfortunately," says Pratt Institute professor Adrienne Jones. "It's pretty ridiculous that skin color is still an issue in 2014…but it is."

She hopes her new "Black Dress: Ten Contemporary Fashion Designers" exhibition, opening today at Pratt Manhattan Gallery, might change that. Though the lack of black models on the runways has been at the forefront of fashion discussions as of late, Jones and her co-curator Paula Coleman decided instead to turn the spotlight on 10 black designers like Stephen Burrows, Tracy Reese, Byron Lars, and Omar Salam. We caught up with Jones to discuss the state of diversity in fashion right now, hear more about the designers she chose to feature, and more.

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What are your thoughts on the state of diversity in the industry right now?

It's no secret that there is a lack of diversity. It's a very hot topic right now, and this is a great time for this population to get out there and really get noticed. It's not like we just showed up. I think the exposure will give people the opportunity to change their thought process and wonder why they haven't looked into these brands before.

Do you think model Bethann Hardison's actions last year made any big changes?

When I was researching for this exhibit, I saw there have been shows in the past that featured all black models. But then that show ends and the conversation stops. The conversation only lasts for a minute and there has been no follow-through.

Related: Model Diversity: Where the Fashion Industry Is Now

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Naomi Campbell made a public statement last year that she thinks the industry has taken a step back in recent years in relation to blacks in fashion. Do you agree that we are regressing?

I would agree. In the 70s, you had Pat Cleveland, Alva Chinn, Beverly Johnson, Bethann Hardison—you had black models who were working and working frequently. They were in Glamour, Vogue, etc. That has just seems to have died out. Why are we not considered fashionable when a lot of the trends out there come from us?

If major fashion icons like Iman and Bethann and Naomi can't make it happen, who do you think the push needs to come from in order to create real change within the industry?

Definitely the magazine editors—that is a huge start. That is what everybody looks to. I won't call out people by name, but if those doors were open, it wouldn't even be an issue. It's very evident and obvious, with people like Kerry Washington, who has the number one-rated show on television. You see everyone else on the cover of Vogue, and she is stunning, so why hasn't she graced their cover? It's almost like it's very blatant at this point.

On the other hand, the fashion industry is often guilty of tokenism when it comes to minorities—the token trans model in a runway show or the token black girl in an editorial shoot….

We have been at the back of the bus for a very long time and every once in a while, we get to ride at the front of the bus. Then another human rights issue comes along and we go back to the back of the bus. The easiest answer would be to accept and respect each other's differences. Then we wouldn't have to do campaigns for specific groups and it would just be OK.

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Tell me about the designers you chose to feature in this exhibition.

It was important that we showed a cross-reference of established and new talents. We have people like Stephen Burrows, Byron Lars, and Jeffrey Banks, all people who have been staples in the industry for many years. They have found a way to stay in the spotlight. I can't tell you that it was not difficult deciding who to include. There are so many out there but with the 10 we chose, we have represented a lot of what is out there as far as black design talent.

It's often the designers who get blamed for the lack of diversity in their runway shows. Do you think having this exhibition during NYFW will influence the casting choices at the shows this season?

I at least hope it will start a dialogue and influence the seasons to come. It's no secret that you can put any color on us and we still look fabulous. The only answer I can come up with is ignorance.

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