• By
Amy Ma/The Wall Street Journal

There’s little room left on the table when sommelier Gon Leung at Cepage restaurant in Hong Kong lays out the nine kinds of wine glasses in his inventory. The stemware is made from a blend of crystal and glass—100% crystal goblets are considered more valuable by some, but they are also quite heavy.

For Mr. Leung, making proper stemware is all about mastering geometry—the angles and lines of the goblet determine how the wine develops as it sits inside the glass, and it can influence the way the wine pours onto the tongue, which in turn can affect taste.

“Your sweet receptors are at the tip of your tongue; bitterness is detected at the back of your throat; and the sides pick up the acidity,” explains Mr. Leung, adding that goblets are not only for holding wine, but are an essential “ingredient” in its enjoyment. Here’s his advice on what kind of wine to pour in what glass.

A side note: When pouring wine, stop at just below the “belly” — the widest part of the glass, says Mr. Leung. “The smaller the pour, the better.” More room in the glass means it “breathes” better, too.

(from right to left)

Young Champagne glass: The long shape of the flute minimizes surface area and helps preserve the bubbles longer.

Grand Champagne glass:
Meant for older vintages of Champagne, the slightly larger glass gently “decants” the Champagne and lets it breathe.

Standard white-wine glass: Use this for lighter white wines, such as Riesling, Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc, which all emit fresh and fruity aromas. The bouquet, though fragrant, can dissipate quickly, so the tall “nose”—the distance from the widest part of the glass to the rim—acts as a highway that directs the scents out of the glass straight to your nose as you tip the goblet toward you.

Chardonnay glass: Chardonnay, a more complex and stronger-tasting white wine, needs a wide bowl-shaped glass so it can mellow and the air can circulate. Viognier, also a heavier-tasting white wine, is better served in this kind of goblet.

Young Burgundy glass: This glass was made for Pinot Noir. The slightly larger shape and diameter—compared with a white-wine glass—allows the tannins in the red wine to breathe, which softens its acidity so it is easier to swallow. To preserve the gentler aromas of the Pinot Noir, the glass has a wider belly, which traps the air inside.

Old Burgundy glass: The slightly taller nose of this glass keeps the aromas trapped in or “protected” for a little longer, as older Burgundies are more fragile and less “lively.”

Young Bordeaux glass: Cabernet Sauvignon (a main grape used in Bordeaux) is high in tannins. The larger glass bowl, by providing more air for the wine to breathe, softens them. Help it along by swirling your glass.

Old Bordeaux glass: A bigger glass is perfect for older reds that need to be “woken up after a long sleep,” says Mr. Leung. This glass is also perfect for a Shiraz, which is less fruity than some other kinds of red wine and has heavy spice aromas.

Dessert wine glass:
The outward bend of the lip directs the wine to the tip of the tongue, where the sweet receptors are, so accentuating the wine’s sweetness, says Mr. Leung.

Read past Wine 101 columns:
The Art of Sabering. Watch the video, too.
Shiraz, or Syrah
Cabernet Sauvignon
Pinot Noir