Sunday, 1 June 2014

Seoul, Korea Trip Highlights

I know some don't like going through other people holiday snaps so this is only for those who might be interested in a country that doesn't otherwise get much tourism publicity like Thailand or Japan.

Seoul was and is too busy trying to become an economic powerhouse to have tried to become a tourist destination although that is starting to change as well.  Korea has a recorded history of about 5000 years and is full of historical monuments that have managed to survive wars and invasions.

This is one of my favorite landmarks which was the king's pagoda for rest and leisure on a man made island in the middle of a natural spring lake in the main royal palace.

This is the gate to the main royal pavilion.
I happened to be going in at the changing of the guard.
Except these guards don't get botox subsidies like 
at Buckingham Palace.

This main palace is where the king would conduct state affairs four times a month and all goverment officials would father and fill the courtyard according to rank.
The architecture is very influenced from China has many similar architectural characteristics.
Cornices are also very much a feature and colors and designs all have significance and is ultimately used to protect the kingdom and is a form of feng shui.
The dragon and phoenix is a very popular safety totem.
All the designs would have been handpainted.

Korea is quite a religious nation and has a population that is split between Buddhism and Christianity.  When Christmas was made a public holiday, the Buddhists also received a public holiday for their religion in the form of Buddha's birthday.

There were lanterns hung in public parks to commemorate the holiday.
Even if one isn't Buddhist, it is very common to have parents or cousins who practice a different religion.
Plus the country was Buddhist on and off for over a thousand years so Buddhism has had a huge influence on Korea's culture.
I hadn't been in Korea for Buddha's birthday in over twenty years so I forgot how colorful the decorations were in small temples.

And then the decorations in the bigger temples were spectacular.
Don't let the Buddhist version of the nativity scene fool you.

There were lanterns everywhere.

The lanterns were like a giant parasol.

I also went to Myongdong Cathedral that was built in 1898 is the oldest one in Korea and has the relics of native born Korean saints.  Early converts were heavily persecuted but the religion still thrived despite a turbulent introduction.

The church also managed to be a safe haven during the 1970's 
and 80's when there were student revolts and 
they needed shelter from the police.
I have rarely seen a queue to get into a church anywhere apart from Notre Dame in Paris where it is mainly tourists entering.

While most of Seoul is full of high rise buildings and a metropolis of more than 10 million people, it is a city with pockets of green and surrounded by mountains.

There are little mountains dotted within the city and 
this one was right by my family's home.
Expats are always surprised by the amount of parks in Seoul that aren't as apparent as a tourist.
Koreans are obsessed about health and the government invests in its own way while it doesn't have a proper social welfare system.  A lot of public parks are equipped with proper machines.
I would love something similar in London although the "health and safety" people would find ways of injury claims so that doesn't seem a feasible idea.

I grew up in modern style homes and yet I felt so at home in these houses that I had never even spent one night in.
Most homes have these internal courtyards.

My uncle told me that these types of houses were freezing and it is only now that Seoul has become a prosperous city that they yearn for something that never actually was...
Although it seems there were a few who thought like me and purchased these old houses and then modernized them as I would have like if I ever moved back to Seoul.
The fact is that many houses back in "those days" were more like this.  Cinder blocks with roofs that were held together with industrial strength rubber bands and weights to keep it down.

This odd ditch was the historical area where women would wash clothes from the spring that originated from one of the many palaces downtown.  
The gates are now reinforced as while it is no longer occupied by the royal family it is a popular tourist destination.

This area which was long forgotten by the population has now been revived and a protected preservation area.

These houses are still hard to shift due to lack of parking so many have become commercial properties.

I love the traditional cobalt tiled roofs.

We were lucky enough to come across a traditional Korean wedding.

Many couples in Korea have both a traditional and a white dress ceremony.  

Certain things were much better than they were even during my childhood.  This fish in such clear water wasn't taken in the countryside but right in the center. Downtown!
Those are tadpoles.

The previous mayor undertook a regeneration project where it channeled a few natural springs into a walk way to give respite to traffic and congestion.

It serves as an oasis and is now a blueprint for other cities to emulate.

It was an odd trip for me in so many ways but revisiting Seoul is a bit like going back to my childhood.  Some things seems more romanticized and other more severe even. 
Certain landmarks now don't look so overbearing and certain places no longer exist.

But I will share with you a highlight of the trip.

 This lady in the beige uniform is what Koreans know as the "Yakult ajumma" which means the middle aged woman who sells those yogurt drinks.

 She is a rare sight these days and I hadn't seen one in more than a decade. But she was like my version of the ice cream van growing up as I loved Yakult like most children.

I always wanted more than just the one 
I was allowed so I took advantage of the money in my wallet which was considerably more than my 7 year old pocket money and bought 5 and drank it on the spot.
The lady thought I was a bit odd but I had to smile because it was the moment I used to fantasize about as a kid
There is nothing like fulfilling a dream no matter how small!


  1. I love other people's travel photos, especially of places I have never been to.
    I would love to stand under all those colorful lanterns!
    The Yakult story is cute. Five of them? Did you not get a belly ache?
    Thanks for sharing your great photos with us!

  2. Korea is not on my radar...yet. I found your pictures and stories fascinating. When I was a very little girl my father, in the army, had to spend a year in Korea. A few years ago, he and my mother decided to visit the places of his misspent youth. They went to Korea and Vietnam. My parents had a wonderful time.

    1. @Adrienne I love Yakult still and I could have had more if it weren't in the street!

      @BB Wow do you know what camp he was in? I used to go to church on the military base so I was friends with a lot of army brats. I adore Vietnam as well and know they would have had a great time at both.

  3. Hi Naomi, such an interesting post, thank you! We were exposed to a little bit of Korean culture when our boys were at an international school. I got to know one of the mums, whose English was very good, and together we set up some meetings for the other Korean mothers to learn more about the school and what was going on there. At our international festival the Korean booth was right next to the Canadian one and I'd get my fix of mandu - yummy!

  4. I love travel photos, particularly of places I'm curious about and haven't visited. I've spent a fair amount of time in Shanghai, and traveled widely throughout India, but that's all I know of Asia. We've got a Korean-American friend who says he'll take us through Los Angeles Koreatown - that may be as close as I ever get. So thank you very much for the photos. Korea is a fascinating country, with a very important role to play in Asia, in my opinion.

    1. @Patricia I am glad you enjoyed the post. I not surprisingly love korean food too! I also went to international school and loved those days when everyone brought their native foods too.

      @LPC - I love travel photos too. But i do have the bug and don't know if I will ever be cured. Koreatown in LA has some of the best restaurants around funny enough so you would have eaten well. I hope you get a chance to visit soon.

  5. Those lanterns are just amazing! I've only been to Korea once, in the early 90's, but had a great time there exploring Seoul. It's good to see photos and hear about your experiences.
    One day I hope I'll get back there.

  6. Hi Naomi, I so enjoyed this virtual trip of sensory delights with you to Seoul! Since husby doesn't like to fly, I doubt that I'd ever get there and your personal take is so much more real than what could be possible from a glossy guide. Thanks for providing so many sights and insights. I love, love, love you fulfilling your childhood dream, I'm so glad there are a few Yakult ajumma still around!

    1. @Ruth I looove the lanterns too! I think you will love going again and it is a very fashion forward city.

      @tiffany My husband doesn't fly and I do wonder how he will get to visit Korea as I would love to show him where I grew up. But didn't we all have fantasies of going to the sweet store and buying whatever you wanted? Except yakult was my "thing" and it still tasted amazing!

  7. love this post and love that you got to live out your child hood drink dream! So funny and sweet xx

  8. love these pictures! thanks for the slice of life - how beautiful!

    1. @ta FF and I am still so chuffed I could drink as many as I like and could afford it!! xx

      @Wendy - I hope you add Korea to your future travel plans :)

  9. So enjoyable having this look at your Korea. The old houses look like they should have been wonderfully comfortable and cosy but obviously not. I smiled at your delight in fulfilling your childhood dream. My dream was to eat milk iceblocks/sticks from the street seller but my parents forbade it as they thought the milk could be contaminated. I did try one, once, and it was delicious and I didn't get sick! But I was too scared to tempt fate again.

  10. Thanks for this lovely post. I wished we had more time to get out of the city. Do the men still smoke a lot? That Yakult has some secret ingredients in there. My mother discovered it two years ago and now she wont be without it. I have to buy it in a Korean store Friday when they get delivery and by Saturday everything's gone.

    1. @Gallivanta Those houses always feature in old Korean dramas so visually I am very used to seeing it as the setting for families so it is probably an associative thing. But those milk sticks sound very good and I feel like I have missed out!

      @Marie - Yes men still smoke a lot and women have joined in as they view it as a slimming aid...Yakult as the shirei strain of bacteria. for instance actimel has other strains. But it is just so darn tasty!! It is considered a real treat and I didn't even know it was good for me growing up as I just thought it was dessert.

  11. Loved all the reminiscing, and so fascinating about Seoul. My husband has been, but only for work, he found it really interesting, but as you say it is not promoted as a tourist destination as other Asian cities are. I honestly thought it was just high rises, like Singapore/ Bangkok pretty much are now. We have exercise machines like that in the park near my house - there's a track, and sign boards explaining how to use the various stations. I remember them in Melbourne too, around Albert Park lake. Thanks for such an interesting post, I really enjoyed it. Hope you can buy Yakult in London though??! xx

  12. Well I thoroughly enjoyed your holiday snaps and your reminiscing giving an insight both into the present Seoul and the past. The pagoda in the middle of the natural spring lake is just perfect and the lanterns are spectacular. In fact there is so much colour in the city. I particularly like the tranquil inner courtyards in the homes. Last year in Vietnam we saw several weddings and were told that they often have both a traditional and a white dress ceremony too. Interesting post!

    1. @Heidi - i liked going down memory lane as well. Seoul does seem to get way more business travellers who happen to be tourists after meetings and such. At first glance Seoul just seems like apartment blocks and doesn't just easily give out its secrets. We were the hermit kingdom after all. I think those public exercise machines are such a great idea!!! its free and every little helps. Those health and safety people put an end to so much that it saddens me. Yes I stock up when I see it but it isn't quite the same as it's like the bells on an ice cream van and running out and having a nice chat with the lady! xx

      @miss b - as I know you like travel, you must add Seoul to any future trip plans. Korean Japan and Taiwan would make a nice itinerary.

  13. wow Naomi, love this post ! makes me want to go back as I just discovered many other places I haven't seen this past november.... and you know what I would love?! : to go back there for your next visit ! while I am in HK it can be easier to plan and would be such a privilege to walk around with you ! in the meantime merci pour cette belle promenade ...xx

  14. Well how wonderful. I appreciated this tour because it's unlikely I will ever get to Seoul. The lantern display looks stunning, I love the idea of the workout machines in the park and a Yakult lady, how fab is that. I drink Actimel but only because you get more in the bottle. As a probiotic drink, I'm not sure it's wise to drink 5 though Naomi ha ha; I'll have to look that up. Modernised houses are the best as it gives you an opportunity to have an eclectic mix of old and new if you choose to, right?. Have a good week xx

  15. It looks gorgeous! I'll add it to my "must visit" list.

    1. @Fabiola - you are so lucky to be able to explore Asia and I hope you get to see more of it as Korea has other great places other than Seoul - you can go to the beaches in the summer and ski in the winter! xx

      @Colleen - you never know - mind you the food is very spicy there but having said that it is very healthy! Have you had yakult though? sooo yummy. I think I should start a petition on about putting in machines in hyde park! xx

      @Jen - I hope you make it there soon bc I could see you really enjoying it!

  16. What a wonderful tour, those old homes look so romantic especially with the internal courtyards, sad to hear they are a bit cold. Love the wonderfully colorful overhead lanterns too. Do you think you would ever go back? I was always going to travel back through Asia when i went back to NZ, but then I never went back so sadly missed out on these wonderful sights. One day though

  17. I love this post. This is a lovely travel and a discovery for me... Those colours every where are really a delight for the eyes...

  18. What an interesting post! I really don't know much about South Korea besides what I hear about on the news, invariably to do with some crisis regarding the north. The older I get the more I realise I really don't know the world at all. x

  19. All that colour is wonderful!!
    I have never been to Korea or that part of the world, so it's wonderful to see and read about it heere!

  20. Thanks for this insider's view; beautiful to see. I've attended a talk by the landscape architect who designed that wonderful walkway; as you say, many of the features could not be replicated because of lawyers. I think it's wonderful to have this space in the city.

  21. @ALW, @FS @BT @IAS. @Lane

    Thanks for coming by and reading about a country that doesn't get much PR other than samsung and other economic factors and am glad to have shown you a side of my hometown! x

  22. This isn't about holiday snaps at all, not that I dislike them, but is a really fascinating insight into a country that I shall probably never visit. I have really enjoyed learning about the traditional houses and the attitudes to them. The inner courtyard idea seems beautiful but I smile at your uncle's practical no nonsense response that they were freezing!

  23. Oh my goodness, I had no idea you are Korean. My mother is from Jinhae (sp?) S. Korea. She recently went back with my eldest sister for her "last time." My mother hadn't been back to Korea in 45 years, since she emigrated to the U.S. ... can you imagine how shocked she must have been seeing the "new" Korea? I am so glad she got to fulfill her dream of seeing her homeland one more time .. like you did yours :) She also reunited with relatives she hadn't seen since then. The home she grew up in has been maintained and kept in the family. It still has the tamped dirt floors of the old country type houses. I am just aching to see it and Korea in person. Kamsamnida (sp?) for your post.

    1. @SMG - Thanks for being kind :))

      'Anon - yes I am half Korean and grew up there until I was 16 but I went to an int'l school so didn't have a traditional Korean upbringing...But it is a country that probably has had one of the most drastic changes in such a short space of time and it makes me feel old to have witnessed such changes. I hope you get to go bc it is such a varied country with beautiful landscapes but it just doesn't seem to do any PR. I know you would love it especially Jinhae where they are famous for the cherry blossom festival!

  24. Hi,
    i like korean cuisine dishes,,
    Korean cookery is maybe best glorious for kimchi, a dish that uses a particular fermentation method of conserving vegetables, most typically cabbage. Kimchi is claimed to alleviate the pores on the skin, thereby reducing wrinkles and providing nutrients to the skin naturally. it's conjointly healthy, because it provides necessary vitamins and nutrients. Gochujang (Korean ancient sauce made from red pepper) is additionally normally used, usually as pepper (chilli) paste, earning the cookery a name for being spicy.
    Rajasthan tour operator


Thank you for dropping by!