Replacing Laminate on Countertops

Replace laminated countertops at the end of their lifespans.

Replace laminated countertops at the end of their lifespans.

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Laminated countertops won't last forever. And if they are exposed to heat or moisture, as is the case in a kitchen environment, the timetable is accelerated. Even under perfect conditions, plastic laminates can wear out and need to be replaced. The job might seem intimidating, but it's a straightforward task that you can accomplish yourself in a single day using a few ordinary tools.

Countertop Construction

There are two basic types of laminate countertop construction. Old-style tops often have a square front edge and a separate backsplash and may include metal trim. This type is suitable for replacing the laminate as discussed below. The other type of countertop is called "post-formed" and has a rounded front edge and integrated backsplash. The laminate is a single piece that wraps from the bottom of the front edge, over the main horizontal surface and up along the backsplash. This laminate is factory-applied, and the process cannot be replicated at home. Post-formed countertops are not suitable for the process described here.


The backsplash is the short, vertical piece that extends up from the wall in the back. Remove it first. The backsplash typically has a small piece of metal at the base and around the perimeter at the top and sides. Begin by inserting a putty knife behind the backsplash. Slide the knife between the wall and the laminate to loosen and cut the glue. When you can get your fingers behind the backsplash, simply begin pulling it off. If it breaks that's OK. Occasionally, the backsplash may be a hardwood board. It comes off in a similar manner, except you may need to use a screwdriver or a flat pry bar to get it loose.

Countertop Laminate Removal

Insert the knife under the laminate on the front. It might be stubborn at first, but push the tip of the knife under it just enough to open a small gap. Inject some acetone under the laminate and wait a few minutes for the acetone to soften the glue. As the glue softens, pull the laminate up. When it becomes difficult to pull up, inject some more acetone under it. Continue pulling up and injecting the acetone until the sheet or piece comes completely off. Do the same thing on the fascia in front. Insert the knife, inject the acetone and pull until all of the laminate is removed. If any glue remains on the particleboard or plywood top, soften it with acetone and scrape it off with the side of the putty knife. Allow one hour for the countertop to dry.

Fascia Installation

This is the 1 1/2-inch piece along the front edge of the countertop. Use strips that are at least 2 inches wide. Paint the back of the pieces and the front of the fascia board with contact cement. When it's dry to the touch, place it directly on the front of the fascia board flush with the bottom. The lip will extend upward past the edge of the countertop. Be careful when placing the fascia as it will bond on contact. Don't allow it to be crooked. Tap on the fascia with a rubber mallet to permanently bond it.


To trim off the overhanging edge, use a special laminate bit with a bearing. This bit has a bearing at the end with a round cutter above it. Hold the router horizontally and slide it along the top edge of the laminate slowly. The bearing will ride along the top, allowing the cutting edge to trim the lip off smooth and flush along the top edge.

Laying the Countertop

You'll need pieces of laminate that are at least 2 inches longer on all sides than the pieces that you removed. Lay out the pieces upside down across sawhorses. Using a paintbrush, liberally coat the back of the laminate and the countertop where the piece will be placed with contact cement. Wait until the contact cement dries. It usually takes about 20 minutes. If you can place your finger on it without it sticking to the cement, it's ready. Place some long dowels on the countertop to prevent the laminate from sticking to the countertop before you're ready. If the two pieces touch each other before you have it positioned correctly, it will bond instantly, and you'll need to start over. When the laminate is in place, pull out the dowels one at a time and allow the laminate to settle into place. Remember that the piece you are working with is bigger and it will extend over the previously routed edge. When the piece is in place, randomly tap the top of the laminate with a rubber mallet to remove any slack or bubbles. Then rout off the extended edge.

Finish the Job

Smooth the routed edges with a fine-tooth file and then sand them lightly with 180-grit sandpaper. Be careful: Routed edges of laminate are razor-sharp before they are filed and sanded. If the router didn't reach into tight corners, use the file to remove the small extended lip where the router didn't cut it off. When the countertop is finished, place the backsplash on. This piece should be cut to width first, usually about 5 inches. Use a special metal trim piece to wrap the backsplash first. Cut and miter the corners with a hacksaw and then fit the edges of the laminate into the slots on the metal trim. Paint the back of the backsplash and wall with contact cement, let it dry and then place it in place flush against the wall with the metal lip snug down onto the countertop.

About the Author

Wade Shaddy


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