Blog | Orange County Electrician - Orange County Electrician Sat, 23 Nov 2019 01:14:37 +0000 en-us

You probably already know not to cut off the third prong of an electrical plug in order to fit it into a two-prong electrical outlet. If you didn't already know, you do now. But why is this dangerous and, if it is, why do some outlets only have two prongs in the first place? Read to find out.

The Basics of a Home Electrical Circuit

Electricity needs to flow in a circuit. That means that at the very minimum, your power outlet is going to need two prong sockets – electrical current from the hot socket flows towards the neutral sockets, powering washing machines and toasters on its way. So far so good.

So what would happen if you placed a metal wire in the hot socket and connected it directly to the neutral socket? A huge amount of electricity would flow completely unimpeded, possibly starting a fire and definitely electrocuting you in the process. When this happens in an electrical device, it's called a short circuit.

This doesn't happen with electrical devices because they are built to limit the flow of electricity. For instance, a light bulb works by cutting the flow from hot to neutral to only 60 watts. The third prong only comes into play when your appliance is enclosed in a metal case.

Metal Cases Conduct Electricity

What happens to you if the interior wiring of a metal-enclosed device comes loose? If the hot wire touches the inside of the metal case, it will electrify the case and fatally shock you the second you touch it. However, if that metal case is connected to a third wire that leads back to the breaker box, the electricity will not flow through you, but through the circuit, tripping the circuit breaker in the process.

As you can see, if you saw off the grounding prong on a three-prong cable and plug it into a two-prong outlet, there is nothing protecting you from shock if interior wiring comes loose. Since grounded devices tend to be larger power draws than ungrounded devices, this is a serious danger – you never know when a small wire might accidentally create a short circuit inside the device.

Obviously, confusing any of these wires is also extremely dangerous. For this reason, wires are color-coded. Hot wires are wrapped in black plastic insulation, neutral wires in white insulation, and ground wires are bare. In ungrounded appliances, the wires are typically doubly insulated against any possible interaction with metal components.

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Rodent pests are a real danger to home electrical systems. The damage often goes undetected until unexpected electrical problems develop seemingly out of nowhere, and eventually you have fatally electrocuted critters to clean up after.

Nobody really knows what attracts mice, rats, squirrels and raccoons to electrical wiring, but the result is never pretty. Orange County has its share of rodent pests, and your home could be targeted by any of these animals.

Rodent Pest Prevention Comes First

If you can prevent rodents from infiltrating your home, you will never have to worry about them chewing on your wiring. Take the initiative by sealing up any holes or cracks in your walls using caulk. Polyurethane spray foam also works well and is widely available at hardware stores throughout the area.

Sealing your home may not be enough, however. Rats, in particular, can be very persistent and even chew their way through concrete walls. You might consider getting a pet cat to curb the chances of infestation, but make sure your cat doesn't also become a wire-chewer. You may also consider setting up traps in and around your home. Most hardware stores carry both fatal and humane pest control traps.

How to Identify Rodent Damage

Since rodent damage takes place inside your walls, it can often be very hard to detect. Be on the look out for unexplained electrical issues:

  • Does the power in a certain room not work, and recently replaced circuit breakers keep tripping?
  • Do certain appliances seem to draw power inconsistently?
  • Are the lights in a certain room unreliable, even though the rest of the room seems to be fully powered?

If you notice anything like this happening, you should schedule a wiring inspection. You may be surprised to find that sections of wire have been exposed – perhaps by tiny gnawing teeth.

It can be difficult to assess the damage without opening up your home's walls, but if you suspect a rodent infestation you should definitely try to resolve it as soon as possible. Remember that should the rodent electrocute itself in the interior of your home's walls, you will have to open up the wall to remove it anyway.

In either case, the services of a professional electrician can get your wires in good shape again. You may also wish to hire an exterminator to ensure that the problem does not repeat itself – one unwelcome guest is enough for any house. A pest control specialist can help you secure your home from further intrusion.

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You traveled overseas, found some wonderful foreign appliance or device and just can't wait to use it in the comfort of your own home. You know that the prongs are different but if you have a wall plug adapter you should be good to go, right?

Not all the time.

Most small, portable devices will work with nothing but a wall adapter, but larger devices and appliances are often specifically designed for the country they were manufactured in. Regardless of what the foreign salesperson told you, you should check for yourself to be sure.

Determining Appliance Voltage

Look closely at the wall plug of any electric device you have on hand – your computer or cell phone charger will do – and you will see a great deal of technical information printed in very, very small print.

The only thing we're looking for right now is the input section. Taking a European device as an example, it will have one of two things written on it:

  • Input: 240v AC 50/60hz, or
  • Input: 120-240v AC 50/60hz

As you can see, the only difference is in the input voltage. Electrical goods sold in Europe use 240-volt power, while American goods use 120-volt power. Some devices can accept any voltage between 120 and 240 volts, while others only accept a single voltage. Kitchen appliances, televisions, stereos, and professional equipment typically accept a single voltage.

If you try to plug in such a device using only a wall adapter, you run the risk of damaging your equipment. Before you plug it in, you need to buy a voltage converter.

Finding and Using a Voltage Converter

You can find voltage converters at nearly any electric hardware store, as well as electric hardware manufacturers online. Before you buy a voltage converter, you will need to determine how many watts of power you need to convert. Your appliance should have this information written on its packaging – use your phone's camera as a translator if needed.

Once you know the wattage of your device, you need to either double or triple that number, depending on what type of appliance it is. Televisions, washing machines, and power tools draw an initial surge of power when turned on – that surge can be up to three times higher than its regular wattage.

When it doubt, go for the higher wattage. A 1500W voltage converter will reliably power just about anything that draws 500 watts of power. Now you're ready to reliably and safely enjoy the use of your foreign appliance at home!

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When it comes to electrical safety, prevention is key. Having professional electrical work performed by reliable contractors is the best way to ensure that you won't have to deal with the dangers of an electrical fire.

However, the National Fire Protection Association estimates that 50,000 electrical fires break out every year in the United States. Knowing what to do – and what not to do ­­­– when confronted with one can be of life-or-death importance.

Be Aware of What Leads to Electrical Fires

Firstly, being aware of the conditions that can create electrical fires is very important. If you notice of the following, unplug it and call an electrician as soon as possible:

  • Repeatedly tripping circuit breakers
  • Tingling sensation or shock when touching an electrical appliance
  • Flickering light bulbs
  • Discolored electrical outlets or power strips
  • Burning smells from any electrical appliance or device

Once Fire Breaks Out

Although your first reaction may be to douse a fire with water, electrical fires are different. Never try to douse an electrical fire with water. Water conducts electricity, which can make the fire spread and fatally electrocute you as well.

If a fire is small, you can douse it with baking soda. Sodium bicarbonate is a powerful fire extinguishing chemical ideal for use with electrical fires because of it presents no risk of shock. Be aware, however, of the fact that electrical fires can spread extremely quickly – as fast as electricity travels, a fraction of the speed of light.

If you have a Class C fire extinguisher handy, that's the best option for the job of containing the fire. It actually uses sodium bicarbonate in a concentrated form, designed specifically for snuffing electrical fires safely.

Once the immediate fire threat is contained, you need to shut off power to through the electrical panel. Be very careful not to touch any metal enclosures or wires on the way – only the circuit breaker itself is safe to touch.

After Shutting Off Power

Call 911 as soon as the immediate threat is contained and evacuate the building. You won't be able to turn the power back on until a disaster recovery electrician rewires the structure. Attempting to do so prematurely could lead to a second fire – so follow the advice of the disaster team that arrives on-scene.

Treating Electrical Shock

Electrical shocks always require emergency medical attention – even if the victim seems okay afterwards. If you can't immediately shut down power, you may need to separate the victim from the power source using a non-conductive object. Don't touch them unless you're absolutely sure there is no risk of shock to you.

CPR may be necessary if the victim is unconscious. Also, electrical shocks typically produce other injuries, such as burns and fractures. Once you've removed the person from the electrical danger, call 911 and follow the dispatcher's instructions.

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For most homeowners, the residential electrical panel remains a mystery. It isn't until you discover your kitchen is completely without electricity while the rest of the house is fine that you'll open it up and peek inside.

At that point, many people realize that they don't actually know what residential circuit breakers are, what they do, or why they're important. This is especially true if power isn't returned to the kitchen immediately after tripping the appropriate breaker.

Your Home's Most Important Safety Asset

Wherever you have an electric load, you have the risk of overload. Your home's electrical wiring system was designed with a certain load in mind, but needs change over time. You might find that when you plug a space heater into the same power outlet as your microwave – pop – your whole kitchen goes dark.

This means that your kitchen wasn't wired to handle a load that large. As both those items began to draw power, they drew enough of it to overheat the physical wiring system conducting electricity. In order to prevent the system from causing a dangerous electrical fire, a circuit breaker tripped, temporarily cutting off the flow of electricity.

There are several major types of circuit breakers, but they all do the same basic thing – detect overload conditions and cut off power. Unlike fuses, you can trip the circuit breaker back again once the overload is addressed, making it a very convenient safety tool. Most homes' electrical systems are divided into sub-grids by room so that you isolate the problem easily.

Replacing Bad Circuit Breakers

In most cases, looking at your electrical panel immediately indicates which breaker needs to be tripped – the only one that isn't in the same position as the rest. But what happens when the breaker doesn't trip? Can circuit breakers break?

As with any mechanical device, the answer is yes – occasionally you'll need to replace a faulty circuit breaker. Although this is not hard to do, it does involve about 20 individual steps and obviously presents the risk of electric shock. For this reason it's recommended that you rely on a professional for the job.

Even if you're capable of doing it yourself, you might find that obtaining the right circuit breaker is challenging – especially if you live in an older home. Electrical panels are typically designed for a single, non-interchangeable circuit breaker type, and expert advice can go a long way towards making sure the replacement works as advertised.

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Outdoor lighting is one of the most spectacular ways to set your home apart. The correct use of landscape lights on your home at night can make it look like a work of art. Pathway lights, patio lights, and accent lighting all combine to give your home a magazine cover-worthy appeal at night.

You might be interested in creating this kind of effect in your home because of the value it adds to the property. If you're thinking of listing your property for sale, consider the impression that a beautifully lit front yard achieves – you're getting potential buyers interested from the very start.

Planning Your Outdoor Lighting Project

Producing the right effect requires a well thought out plan. Consider the following three tips before you get started:

  • Get a Team Together – Yes, you'll need an excellent electrical contractor to reliably and safely wire the lights, but what about design and landscaping? Some homeowners enjoy designing their own outdoor lighting installations, while others prefer to leave it to a professional. Consider how much time and effort you're willing to put into the project before you start planning it.
    Generally, if you already like your yard and patio and do not wish to change anything, you can forego working with a landscaper and designer. However, if you wish to add in any landscaping elements or change important aspects of your home's exterior, you will definitely want to hire a professional for the job.
  • Learn Your Lights – Electric lights have three fundamental qualities from a design perspective – intensity, color, and spread. Whether you are coming up with your own design or working with a professional landscape lighting designer, you should understand the basic nature of lighting and the terms used to describe lights' effects.
    The intensity of a particular light bulb determines its purpose. Soft accent lights are dim, while task lights tend to be bright. Light bulb colors are measured in kelvins (K), ranging from 1800 (a deep red tone) to 7500 (bluish white). A light with a wide spread is ideal for illuminating a large area, while narrow spreads are better for lighting accents such as trees or other landscape elements.
  • Don't Use Dimmers – Incandescent lights, when dimmed, produce an amber-colored light that makes green plants look sickly and ghoulish. To really bring out the best in your outdoor plants, you should use a blue color correcting filter on bulbs in the 7500 K range to produce the whitest possible light. The whiteness brings out the healthy green of plant leaves and contrasts well with the surrounding shadows.

Don't Forget Your Switches

When planning your outdoor lighting design project, don't forget about switch placement. You'll want switches on both sides of any walkway and multiple additional places from which you can turn on the lights – remember that you'll be experiencing them both from the inside and outside of your home.

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Chances are you have a vampire in your home. An energy vampire.

But don't worry, energy vampires aren't ghoulish creatures of Transylvanian myth – they're appliances and devices that continually draw electricity even when not in use. Most televisions and electronic devices fall into this category, and the costs they incur can add up quickly.

Identifying Energy Vampires

How Stuff Works identifies some of the most common culprits in the average home:

  • Dishwasher
  • Microwave
  • Television
  • Gaming consoles
  • Desktop computers
  • Computer peripherals
  • Mobile device chargers

Most of these devices do not actually need to be plugged in when not in use, yet continually draw power. Basically any new appliance with a bright, illuminated user interface or any kind of remote capability needs to draw electricity 24/7. Older products that feature manual dials tend not to be energy vampires, but they often use more electricity once activated.

There are some energy vampires you won't want to unplug. Your refrigerator is a good example, as well as anything that features a clock or alarm functionality. Also, while your television doesn't need to be plugged in all the time, most cable boxes take a very long time to reboot, so you can scratch that off the list.

Computer peripherals and mobile phone chargers are one of the most common culprits in this example. Leaving peripherals in standby mode lets them continually draw a small amount of power in order to remain ready – your desktop screensaver is costing you money. Mobile device chargers also bleed a small amount of energy constantly, even when not plugged into anything.

How Much Money Can You Save?

A typical 13-watt DVR consumes about 115 kilowatt-hours per year. At 11 cents per kilowatt-hour, you're looking at an annual cost of $12.65 – not much, certainly. However, keep in mind that this is a single device in a home with as many as 20 or 30 similar ones. If every device costs you $1 per month to not use, why not unplug? states that standby power costs the average U.S. homeowner $100 per year. You're not going to get rich by addressing your energy vampires, but it won't hurt.

Use Power Strips With Interrupters

You don't actually need to physically remove devices from your wall socket – that's too much work. The simplest thing to do is to plug your most significant energy consuming appliances into power strips with interrupters. The interrupter mechanically separates the circuit, cutting off power for good. Use one in your home office, kitchen, or living room and you'll notice a result on your monthly bill.

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How many mobile devices do you keep in your home? Certainly your smartphone comes to mind first, but you might also have a tablet, laptop computer, or other peripheral device that needs to be plugged in to charge. Multiply that by the number of people living in your home and you'll be surprised at just how many devices you own.

A recent study confirms that the average North American home has seven mobile devices in it. Every single one of those devices comes with its own charging cable and wall adapter, which can make outlet space a hot commodity in domestic common areas – think of your kitchen or living room. How often do family members squabble over who gets to charge their phone on the couch or at the table

Convert Wall Outlets to Combo USB Outlets

One clever way to deal with this problem is converting some of your wall outlets to combo USB outlets. These outlets feature the two typical 120-volt three-prong power outlets alongside one or two specialized USB outlets. By upgrading to combo USB outlets, you can plug your electronic devices directly into the wall – no charger needed!

Not only do combo USB outlets free up valuable outlet space, but they also give your interior a clean, organized look – no need for rows of wall adapters to sit alongside one another, occasionally covering up free outlets due to poor design.

As an added benefit, these wall outlets may also charge your devices faster than other USB connections do. It depends on the device in question and the amperage in your home.

Installing USB Wall Outlets

While combo USB outlets have been around for several years, it has taken them some time to show up in your local hardware store. Any Orange County hardware store will have a few variants, typically priced between $10 and $25 – about what a third-party wall adapter would cost.

In addition to combo outlets, you can also occasionally find USB-only outlets that combine up to four outputs on a single panel – perfect for the home office. Before you buy any, however, you'll need to measure your junction boxes to make sure the USB outlets fit.

You'll notice that these outlets are almost twice as deep as regular 120-volt power outlets. The reason is that the electronics typically located on an electronic wall adapter are now hidden behind the wall – in older homes, you might need to cut and patch the wall around the outlet to fit. Otherwise, they'll slide into the slot just like a regular outlet.

Older homes may also have an electric system with a lower amperage, and this could affect charging performance. A professional electrician can determine whether this is the case for you and help you achieve any other upgrades you may wish at home.

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Power outages can wreak havoc on your home’s electrical system, appliances, and devices. Knowing what to do in the event of a power outage can help to protect your home and belongings, and in some cases, yourself.

1. Diagnose the Scope of the Issue

If one room has suddenly gone dark in your home, chances are you tripped a circuit or blew a fuse. Confirm this at the circuit breaker or fuse box. If your whole house is affected, check with the neighbors. Whether your home or your whole neighborhood has lost power, call up your power company and report the issue.

2. Unplug Major Devices

If possible, unplug all major devices such as televisions, refrigerators, microwaves, and computers. Bring a flashlight to ensure your safety. Unplugging these devices protects them from electrical overload when the power is restored, or from damage if there’s a nearby lightning strike.

3. Know the Safety Tips of an Electrical Storm

Sometimes, the electricity is knocked out by a bad storm. If this is the case, particularly if there’s active lightning, use extreme caution and follow these electrical hazard tips from the CDC:

  • Don’t plug in or unplug any devices while the storm is still occurring.
  • Avoid washing your hands, taking a shower, or any areas with water.
  • Never enter a flooded basement during a bad storm.
  • Do not do the dishes or laundry.
  • Avoid using land lines – in rare cases, corded landline phones can deliver a deadly electric shock in an electrical storm. Using cordless phones or cell phones is safe, as are wireless electronics.

4. Use Caution with All Generators and Heat Sources

If the power outage lasts long enough for you to use a portable generator, kerosene stove, or other sources of heat, never do so indoors. These units produce carbon monoxide, which is deadly inside the home and causes hundreds of deaths every year. In addition, never plug a generator directly into your home’s circuit, as this could deliver deadly shocks to utility workers, neighbors, or yourself.

5. When the Power Returns, Wait Several Minutes

Once the power is restored, wait a few minutes to start plugging all your appliances back in. This will help support the smooth restoration of power in your neighborhood and protect your appliances from surges as the power returns.

If there’s an electrical emergency or life-threatening incident during a power outage, always call 911. Use common sense in the event of an outage; never approach downed power lines, and exercise caution when restoring full power to your appliances and devices. If you suspect damage to your home’s wiring or electrical systems, call an electrician to perform an investigation.

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For the handy, replacing a doorbell can be a fun DIY electrical project.

There are lots of reasons you may want to replace a doorbell. Maybe your old doorbell is broken, you’re interested in a new chime or wireless unit, or perhaps you even want to install a camera-enabled security doorbell. Here are a few easy steps to replace a doorbell using a doorbell kit, which involves the doorbell itself and either wireless or wired chimes.

1. Turn off the Power

Always turn off the power to the circuit first (both for the doorbell and the chimes). This may be tricky if your doorbell has stopped working – if you’re not completely sure what circuit the doorbell is on, it can be difficult to test. You cannot always rely on outdoor lighting to be on the same circuit, so a good way to test is with a voltage tester. If in doubt about electrical safety, don’t risk it, and call the pros.

2. Disassemble the Old System

Once you’re sure the power is off in your circuits of interest, use a screwdriver to remove the old doorbell. Inside the house, remove the chime unit. Attached to both, you will typically find two wires. They are interchangeable on the doorbell, but typically not on the chimes.  

3. Replace the Doorbell Itself

Take your new doorbell, and connect it to the two existing wires. If these wires are badly damaged, cut off the worn area, and strip a new half inch of wire. Connect these wires (again, it doesn’t matter which wire goes to which terminal) to the doorbell – pliers are typically helpful at this step to wrap the wires. Screw the new doorbell back in.

4. Replace the Chimes (or Place the Wireless Unit)

If you’re replacing a wired unit, pay attention to which wire is attached to which terminal on the old chimes. You will need to connect the wires in the same manner on your new chimes. If you are replacing an old, wired system with a wireless one, you can either choose to remove these chimes or leave them where they are. Some wireless units plug into an outlet, while others are battery-powered and mount on a wall.

5. Restore the Power and Test

If your new doorbell works, you’re done! Some common hurdles along the way may include:

  • Different spacing on the doorbell or chimes’ screw placement – you will need to drill new holes for the screws
  • Smaller doorbell faceplate than the old one – you may need to use caulk or wood putty to fill in the gaps

If after installing and troubleshooting a new doorbell you’re still experiencing problems, it may be time to call an electrician. There could be an underlying issue with the wiring or another problem that’s dangerous for an untrained individual to approach. As with any DIY venture – but particularly with electrical projects – trust your intuition and don’t be afraid to ask for help.

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Rewiring your home can be one of the most important safety investments you make.

Tens of thousands of electrical fires occur every year in the U.S., and a rewire can help you prevent such an event from happening to you. If you’re not sure if your home needs a rewire, check out these telltale warning signs. If you’re ready for an electrical overhaul, however, knowing what to expect can make the process much smoother.

How Long Will a Complete Rewire Take?

A small home may take a few days. On the other hand, a larger home with tough-to-access wiring (which may involve the removal of sections of wall or ceiling) could take much more than a week. Naturally, upgrading a 60-amp system to 200-amp service, and electrical services like replacing a fuse box with a circuit breaker, adding new circuits, or grounding a home can all add to the duration (and price tag) of an electrical rewire.

Can I Stay at Home During the Rewire?

A total rewire occurs in two stages: first fix and second fix. These stages are messy, involving plaster, ladders, drilling, and an overall “construction” setting. While rare, it is possible to live at home during a total rewire – but depending on the complexity of your system, this may not be feasible.

Many total rewires occur before a house goes on the market (when the home is empty), but sometimes, homeowners to decide to upgrade while they’re residing in the house. In this case, cover all furniture and appliances with dust-proof plastic, move pieces to the center of rooms as necessary, and remove as many valuables from the spaces as possible.

Protecting belongings is not an electrician’s responsibility, which is why it’s a good idea to consider moving furniture to a temporary storage unit during the rewire. Depending on the scenario, it may even cost more to rewire a home while you’re living in it.

How Much Will It Cost?

If it’s a total rewire, you will be looking at an investment. A large, complex rewire could cost over $10,000. Replacing pre-1940s “knob and tube” wiring is going to increase the price, as is replacing rubber-insulated wiring, aluminum wiring, or other older wiring systems. However, if the home needs it, it’s the responsible thing to do. Further, if you even mean to sell, a home must be able to pass an electrical inspection.

The benefits of a complete electrical rewire far outweigh the costs in most cases. Houses become sellable, insurance becomes cheaper (or available at all), residents can run modern appliances, and most importantly, the home is safer.

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Old lamps can stop working – but don’t throw them away just yet. A safe and fun DIY electrical project, rewiring a lamp is easy and inexpensive and can help you save an old, favorite lighting piece in your home.

1. Buy the Necessary Parts

First, you’re going to need to determine exactly what replacements the lamp needs. Thoroughly inspect the lamp to find any damaged parts, and if in doubt, a hardware store can examine it for you and provide you with all the necessary replacement parts. You will also need a screwdriver and a wire stripper.

2. Disassemble the Lamp

Remove the lampshade and bulb. The component that the bulb screws into is called the “socket shell.” Remove it from the socket – these are rarely screwed into place, and it may be possible to simply pop it off.

The socket comes apart one more time: removing the bottom of the socket (called the “socket cap”) reveals the wires in something called an underwriter’s knot. If needed, take a picture of this knot (and the two connections to the silver and brass screws) before disassembling.

3. Remove the Wiring

Once disassembled with wires exposed, you can unscrew the silver and brass screws holding the wires in place, and pull them through the bottom of the lamp.

4. Run the New Wiring into the Lamp

With your new cord and wiring from the hardware store, run the wire back up through the lamp, so it’s exactly like the old one. Once you pull the cord through the very top, run it through the socket cap (either the old one, or the new one if replacing). A brand new cord will have two wires connected all the way to the end; pull them apart about two inches.

5. Strip the Wires and Connect to the Socket

Using a wire stripper, strip about half an inch off each wire. At this point, you’ll need to re-tie that underwriter’s knot from earlier (make sure you’ve already run the cord through the socket cap). If you are unsure how to make this knot, a brief tutorial can be found here.

Next, make a loop in each exposed wire, and connect the “hot” wire to the brass screw, and the “neutral” wire to the silver screw. You can tell which is which because the neutral wire will have ribs on the coating. Tighten the screws.

6. Reassemble and Test the Lamp

In the same manner as disassembly, simply reassemble the lamp (using new replacement parts as needed). Test the lamp, and you’re done!

If your lamp still does not work, go back through the steps and ensure the connections are tight (and on the correct terminals). By rewiring it yourself, you can even change the style of the lamp, the type of switch, and even add a “three-way” option for an intermediate brightness.

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