The time to start seeds has arrived.

The time to start seeds has arrived.

But before you tear open your first packet, a few central Ohio gardening experts have shared tips on beginning the process and caring for the tender seedlings.

When to start

"The rule of thumb for starting seeds is six weeks before the last frost date," said Debbie Wren, a Fairfield County master gardener. "We are in Zone 5, and our last frost date is May 20."

Right now, it's safe to start seeds for cold-season flowers and vegetables such as cabbage and broccoli because they can survive outside before the last frost, said Brian Killilea, manager of deMonye's Greenhouse on the East Side.

Always refer to the seed packet, which should tell you how long the plant will take to fruit or flower and whether it needs to be started indoors, he said. Heat-loving plants such as tomatoes and cucumbers should be started in early March.

What equipment to use

Starting seeds doesn't have to be expensive. The fancy and expensive setups in seed catalogs aren't necessary.

"The basic necessities are containers, soil, water, artificial or natural light, and seeds," Wren said. "Any container will do as long as it will hold soil and has good drainage. You can reuse all those plastic containers you get from yogurt, cottage cheese and milk jugs."

You can even start seeds in Dixie cups with holes in the bottom for drainage, Killilea said.

Some greenhouses and nurseries also offer their used plug trays, often free, to home gardeners.

When it's time to fill the containers, choose a soilless seed-starting mix.

"Don't use garden soil or any kind of topsoil," said Doris Marcus, a master gardener who works at Keller Farms Greenhouse in Carroll. "Garden soil compacts too much, and the dirt stays too wet, which increases the chance that most of the seeds will rot. Soilless mix has more drainage and increases the chance of a successful germination."

Then, "Just tickle the seeds into the soil," Marcus said, and water them gently with a water wand or a spray bottle. "Keep the soil moist but not soggy."

Check the seeds daily and water them frequently.

"If you cover the tray

with a piece of plastic wrap or a plastic cover, it acts like a little greenhouse and helps hold moisture in," she said.

To coax the seeds to germinate, they need to be warm.

"They don't need light to germinate, so you can put the seed trays on top of the fridge or any place that generates heat," Marcus said.

When the seeds sprout, they'll need light. Place them near a sunny window during the day, Killilea said. Move them away from the window at night, when the temperature drops.

Grow lights are also an option - and they needn't be expensive.

"Any fluorescent light will work," Marcus said, "but they have to be on a chain so they can be moved up as the plants grow."

Grow lights should be placed no more than 2 inches above the plants. The closeness will keep the plants from getting leggy.

As the seedlings grow, they might need to be transplanted. If they were started in seed plugs, transplant the strongest seedlings into larger pots once the plants have three or four sets of leaves, Marcus said.

How to move outdoors

Seedlings won't survive if they go right from a sunny spot indoors into the garden.

"Hardening off your seedlings is really necessary," Wren said. "Bright, hot sun and hard wind are killers for seedlings.

"I put all my seedlings and cuttings out on the patio for a few hours each day, then back in the garage at night," she said. "I increase the length of time they spend outside every few days. I do this for about 10 to 14 days, then I plant them and hope for the best."

It's best to stick with annuals and vegetables when starting seeds, but there is little downside in trying most plants, Killilea said.

"For the price of seeds, it's worth a try," he said. "It's much cheaper than going out and paying for full-size plants."

Denise Trowbridge is a Columbus freelance writer who covers garden topics.