Earth Day is April 22, which is a good time to analyze your landscape to think of ways that you can help create a more earth-friendly environment. Consider what changes you can make in your landscape that will reduce the amount of fertilizer, pesticides and water applied.

• Fertilize only if needed. If your plants are growing like gangbusters, chances are they don’t need a boost from fertilizers. Lawns are often over-fertilized to create a lush green carpet, but there are possible negative side effects. That lush green lawn is like a welcome mat to insects such as chinch bugs, and is also more susceptible to some lawn diseases. Instead of routinely adding fertilizer to your plant beds and lawn, consider submitting a soil sample to determine what additional nutrients are needed. The University of Florida soils lab will process a soil sample for nutrients and pH for $7, and for an additional $5 they will also check for micronutrients. For soil test forms, go to this website: http://soilslab.ifas.ufl.edu/ESTL%20Home.asp.

Lawns vary in the amount of fertilizer they need to stay healthy. Centipede requires the least fertilizer per year, while the other lawn grasses require two to three applications each year. Tax time, April 15, is the date of our first application and September is the second time to use a “complete fertilizer,” which is one that contains nitrogen and potassium (first and third numbers) with a small amount of phosphorous (second number) if needed. For detailed information on fertilizing lawns, this is a good publication: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh014.

Many established woody plants don’t need additional fertilizer applications because their root system covers a larger area and picks up nutrients from lawn applications. Fertilizer applications may be needed to encourage new growth or to correct nutrient deficiencies.

When fertilizing, sweep or blow any fertilizers deposited on hard surfaces back on the lawn or place into the bag to prevent fertilizer runoff into storm drains and ultimately our waterways.

• Manage yard pests responsibly. Choose pest- and disease-resistant plants and keep them healthy. If a problem occurs, identify the pest/disease correctly before treating. Can the problem be resolved by adjusting the irrigation system, hand-picking the insect, or clipping off the diseased plant part? Are there beneficial insects present that are helping to keep insect numbers in check? If you need help identify beneficial insects, check here: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in120.

If a pesticide is needed, instead of using a broad-spectrum pesticide like Malathion or sevin, try using a product that is host-specific like Bacillus thuringiensis, sold as Dipel or Thuricide for caterpillars, or horticultural soaps and oils for many other types of insects. Treat only the affected plants and about a five-foot buffer area to preserve populations of beneficial insects. If you are interested in using natural products to manage pest problems, go here: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in197.

• Conserve water. Now that temperatures are heating up, dry spots start showing up in lawns if in-ground irrigation systems are not operating properly. Run the system monthly and check each zone to make sure that heads are operating efficiently. Use a shovel to carefully edge around sprinkler heads in lawns to improve coverage. Adjust irrigation heads to insure good plant coverage and avoid watering roads and driveways. If the turf is not serving a functional purpose, consider reducing the amount of turf and enlarge/create plant beds using drought-tolerant plants to ultimately save valuable water.

If you irrigate, make sure to calibrate your sprinkler system. Even if you irrigate with a portable hose and sprinkler, it should be calibrated so you know how long to irrigate. If you have multiple zones, this test needs to be done for each zone. To calibrate, place five to ten flat-bottom straight-sided cans within an irrigation zone. Run the system for fifteen minutes and measure the amount of water that accumulates. Some will have more water than others based on the distribution. Add the amounts together and divide by the number of cans to come up with an average. Then determine how long each zone should run to apply between one-half to three-quarters of an inch of water. This will wet the top six to nine inches of a sandy soil and will promote a deeper root system. If there is a dry spot, make adjustments to the irrigation system or hand-water the drier areas to supplement. To find information on basic repairs and maintenance of home irrigation systems, go to http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ae451.

Convert plant beds and vegetable gardens to low-flow irrigation like drip or soaker hoses. Water is applied to the roots, which is more efficient and will reduce plant disease problems by keeping water off the leaves. If you are installing new plants in the landscape, don’t depend on the old traditional spray heads to get them established…this is often the kiss of death. Plan to hand water new plants to get them established or install a drip system so that water goes directly to the root ball of the plant.
