The clock is ticking for Venice

What does it mean to be Venetian? For much of the year you'll struggle to find a local to answer that question. Venice is leaking residents at an alarming rate. In the 16th century it was one of the known world's most populated cities; today there are just over 60,000 residents (down from 100,000 in 1978 and 80,000 in 1998), and 21 million tourists.

Living in the world's watery museum is a privilege, but it comes with a price. Ever tried to buy formula milk or washing-up liquid in La Serenissima? The workaday city sold out to tourism long ago, leaving locals to lament, among other things, the loss of the city's cinema, and one of the last remaining toy shops. Meanwhile, a surplus of hotels is stifling residential development, making it harder than ever for Venetians to stay or return. Property prices are among the highest in Italy, and deaths outnumber births two to one.

Some Venetians, however, are starting to fight back. First came the residents-only vaporetto, which carries smug locals along the Grand Canal. A "citypass" plan, or tourist tax, was mooted by Venice city council (but quickly snuffed out by hoteliers) and in April a group called 40xVenezia staged a protest in St Mark's Square against a proposed tourism law permitting hoteliers commercial access to any building within their sestiere (quarter).

But the biggest statement came in March when, an online group dedicated to protecting the Venetian way of life, installed a digital counter in a shop window near the Rialto Bridge. Venetians can now witness their exodus in real time. At the counter's launch in March, Venetian residents numbered 60,720. Last week there were 60,520.

"It's time Venice woke up to what it has lost," says Matteo Vecchi, one of the activists behind the site. "Housing, not more hotels, is what the city needs. Young Venetians simply can't afford to live here." Residents agree. As one local tells me, "Venice is on the cusp of losing its identity. We must act now to give people a reason to come back."