Wine: Weather, soil, tradition make Burgundy unique

Bill Zacharkiw, Gazette Wine Critic 

Wine: Weather, soil, tradition make Burgundy unique


Bill zacharkiw / The Gazette



However, on another level, if there is any place that has defined itself by its “terroir,” where weather, soil and tradition come together to make a particular place unique, it is Burgundy.



This is what makes Burgundy so complex and why some people devote themselves completely to its study. As one of my heroes, British wine writer Hugh Johnson, said of the place,”there is no simple or straight answer to the conundrum of Burgundy.”



The history


But these classifications of land were not done via modern technology – rather they have been researched for over a thousand years by an unlikely institution – the church. From the 6th century and up until the French Revolution in 1789, when these lands were confiscated by the state and sold off to the people, these lands and their vines were tended by the monks.

They had meticulously mapped out the best growing sites – those hillsides with the right combination of soil, subsoil, exposition and climate for their grapes. These units of delineated property, which were “walled-in” vineyards, were called a “Clos.” By the time the 1930s rolled round and the appellation system came into being, Burgundy had already been mapped out like no other region in the world.

Today, Burgundy is divided into five sub-regions. From north to south they are Chablis and Auxerrois, Côtes de Nuits, Côtes de Beaune, the Côtes Challonaise and the Mâconnais. While the southern most region, Beaujolais, is officially part of Burgundy, they have worked independently since 1988.

How Burgundy is organized

Each region is further divided into smaller appellations based on the quality of the grapes produced in each vineyard. At the top of the pyramid are the Grand Crus. There are 33 Grand Crus split between the Côte de Beaune and Côtes de Nuits, collectively referred to as the Côte d’Or. They represent just over one per cent of the total production. There are also seven Grand Crus in Chablis, which is about 120 kilometres from the northern tip of the Côte d’Or.



The villages of Puligny and Chassagne were both close enough to Monrachet that both have taken the name of this famous vineyard – Puligny-Monrachet and Chassagne-Monrachet.

Premier Crus are labelled with the name of the village where the grapes are from and may also carry the name of a “lieu-dit” if the wine is made with grapes harvested from a single site. If the wine is made from a blend of a number of premier cru sites, there will be no mention of a specific “lieu-dit.” So, for example, Puligny-Monrachet 1er Cru, Les Combettes. Les Combettes in this case is the lieu-dit.

The third-tier appellations are what are referred to as “village wines.”

The grapes for these wines come from any vineyards within the boundaries of a particular village. The fourth tier are regional wines. Wines labelled “Bourgogne” are made with either pinot noir or chardonnay, often from the plains at the foot of these hillsides. You also can find wines made with the other Burgundian grapes – aligoté and gamay. Two Quebec favourites, Bourgogne Aligoté and Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains, which is a blend of pinot noir and gamay, are examples these regional wines.

But Burgundy is mostly about pinot noir and chardonnay. So do all these specific “climates” make sense? Did the monks do their job? What is the difference between chardonnay grown in Meursault versus a Puligny-Monrachet? Or pinot noir from Chambolle-Musigny versus Pommard? Next week I will take a swing at the piñata and try to demystify this conundrum.



This week’s suggestions

Regional wines

Bourgogne 2009, Le Chapitre, René Bouvier, $20.75, SAQ # 11153264. One of the references in generic Burgundy at the SAQ. Even during hot vintages like 2009, the wines are pure finesse. The fruit here is almost crunchy fresh, the acidity lively, the texture like satin. Very pretty. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2014. Food pairing idea: apéritif, salmon steak.

Bourgogne Aligoté 2010, Albert Bichot, France white, $15.95, SAQ # 130724. Fresh and easy. Pear, a subtle hint of green apple and delicate flowers on the nose. If you let it warm a bit, the wine gains some richness. Finishes quite mineral. Textbook aligoté and quite good. Serve at 8 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, white fish with a squirt of lemon.

Village wines

Saint-Romain 2009, Domaine Taupenot -Merme, France red, $33.25, SAQ # 11094866. More mineral than many 2009s that I have tasted. Beautifully balanced and focused, with red berries and earthier anise-type flavours. Finishes on dried spices. Finessed and elegant village wine that is ready to drink. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2016. Food pairing idea: vegetarian friendly, chicken/pork stir fry.

Premier Cru

Beaune Premier Cru 2009, Les Epenottes, Parent, France red, $38.50, SAQ # 11563503. Supple and fruit driven, typical of 2009 and why so many people love them. Texture is slightly creamy, the tannins big and round, with a hint of sweeter spice on the finish. Could still use some time to digest the oak, but drinks well right now. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2017. Food pairing idea: Boeuf Bourguignon.

Grand Cru

Corton-Bressandes 2008, Grand cru, Domaine Nudant, France red, $78.25, SAQ # 918268. A mere baby but this is starting to open. Dark fruits and earth, mineral, spicy and slightly sullen, This is the bigger, more broad shouldered style of Burgundy. Length is considerable. Open a day in advance or just let it sit for a few more years. Serve at 18C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: duck and other flavourful meats.

