Q: Why aren’t my lilacs growing well? I planted bushes three years ago and they’re not thriving yet. Just a few blooms this year and growth is not thick.


A: Lilacs often thrive with minimal care, but they’ve got one weak spot. Potassium. That’s the third number in the analysis code you’ll find on fertilizer bags and bottles, and lilacs don’t do well with a potassium deficiency in the soil.

You’d be wise to have the soil immediately around your bushes analyzed to see how potassium levels look. I’d bet it’s low.

Most soil labs won’t test for lilac nutrient requirements specifically, but if you raise potassium to high levels for a lawn situation, that should do the trick for your lilacs. The lab will also test for soil pH, and it should be nearly neutral or slightly acidic – 6.5 to 7.0.

Also, as with any shrub, lilacs respond quite well to pruning, too. Not only does it make the shape look better, but it often wakes the bush up and encourages growth. Give the lilacs lots of water when they get dry, too. Even three-year- old lilacs don’t have the massive root system of those large, old lilacs you see around vintage homes. Yours are still very much kids and they still need support.

Tricks for Anchoring a Deck to Brick

Q: What’s the best way to anchor a new deck to a brick veneer house? My builder wants to make a separate foundation for the deck right next to the house foundation, rather than attach the deck to the house wall itself. Is he just trying to make work for himself and charge me more?


A: You’re in luck. You’ve probably got an above-average deck builder because a completely separate deck foundation is usually better in two ways. First, it doesn’t compromise the strength or weather resistance of your exterior house walls. Any deck that anchors to your house could allow water to penetrate if steps aren’t taken to stop leaks. It’s actually a bit of trouble to prevent leakage caused by attached decks. And second, an independent deck foundation can actually be easier and more economical to create in some ways because it sidesteps the need to waterproof the deck-to-house connection with flashing.

If you do decide to anchor your deck to your house, be sure not to bolt it to the brick veneer. This isn’t thick enough or strong enough to do the job. Instead, drive bolts into the underlying wood frame that’s found below the bricks. To see what I mean, click stevemaxwell.ca/build-a-deck for a short video tutorial.

Choosing Urethane

Q: Can I use oil-based urethane over water-based stain for an interior wood finishing job? And how about the other way around? I’ve got some interior trim and panelling to finish and I’m choosing products right now.


A: Yes, both water-based and oil-based urethanes can be used over any type of stain as long as the stain is fully dry. Give the stain three days to dry just to be sure and you won’t have any adhesion problems.

Regardless of the urethane you choose, sand the surfaces lightly with 240-grit sandpaper after each coat of urethane has dried. This is key. Without this step your surface will be fuzzy and uninviting. Also, all else being equal, it’s easier to succeed with oil-based urethane than water-based.

The reason is drying time. Water-based urethane often dries so quickly that brush marks and surface bubbles harden in place. Oil-based urethane usually dries slowly enough that it has a chance to flow out evenly before it hardens.

One more thing: Gloss and semi-gloss urethane tends to highlight imperfections. That’s why I always recommend the dull sheen of a satin urethane, especially for beginners. It just makes for a better final result.