Endless Summer


Artichokes photo

Also known as globe artichokes, these prickly veggies are actually edible flower buds in the thistle family. They grow on stalks, with a large bud at the top and smaller ones below. The smallest buds are sold as “baby artichokes.” (Sunchokes, which also go by the misleading name of Jerusalem artichokes, come from an unrelated plant—a variety of sunflower.)

How to buy:

Artichokes are available year round, but they peak between March and May. Look for buds that are heavy for their size with a tight leaf formation. The leaves should squeak when you press them together, but avoid buds that look too dry. As for color, a browning isn’t good, but a slight discoloration caused by frost is okay. Small artichokes are often more tender; rounder bulbs have larger hearts.

How to store:

Keep artichokes unwashed in the fridge for up to 4 days. Wash just before you cook them. Covered and refrigerated, cooked artichokes will last up to 3 days.

How to trim:

Trimming artichokes takes work, but getting to the tender inner leaves and heart is worth it.

First, fill a large bowl with water. Then add the juice of half a lemon, dropping the trimmed artichokes in lemon water helps to prevent browning.

Full-size artichokes:

  1. Pull off the tough outer leaves, and cut off the stem of each artichoke. Cut off 1 inch from the top of each artichoke. With scissors, cut off about 1/2 inch from the tip of each leaf.
  2. Rub cut surfaces with lemon.
  3. Separate the leaves to get to the center of the artichoke. Pull out the purple leaves, exposing the prickly choke. With a melon baller or spoon, scoop out the prickly choke from each artichoke. Drop prepared artichokes into the bowl of lemon water until ready to use.

Baby artichokes:

  1. Cut a scant 1 inch from the top of each artichoke. Trim the stem to 1/2 inch.
  2. Pull off the tough outer leaves until you get to the pale green ones.
  3. Halve each baby artichoke lengthwise. Rub cut surfaces with lemon.
  4. Quarter each half. Drop each wedge into lemon water until ready to use.

How to steam:

Some people prefer steamed artichokes to boiled ones. To steam, set trimmed bulbs upside down on a steaming tray over boiling water.

How to know when an artichoke is fully cooked:

Cooking time for artichokes varies depending on their size. Boil or steam until a leaf comes out fairly easily when tugged, usually 30-40 minutes.

If you plan to serve them cool, put artichokes in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking and then drain them upside down on a dish towel in the fridge.

How to eat an artichoke:

If you’re not entirely sure how to consume this prickly vegetable, don’t feel foolish. Everyone has a dubious first encounter with artichokes.

  1. Pull off a leaf, dip it into the accompanying sauce, and slide the leaf between your teeth—you’ll taste the “meat” at the base.
  2. When the heartier leaves are gone, you’ll see a layer of thin, pale leaves with violet tips. Remove them. Underneath is a fuzzy round called the choke. Slide the choke off with your knife. What remains is the heart-a delicious disk of edible artichoke—and if you can fend off your dining companions, it’s yours to enjoy.
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