Taco Recipes and Tips from Shelley Wiseman

by Lauren Salkeld
on 10/25/11 at 05:02 PM

Just-Tacos-CoverIn her recently published cookbook, Just Tacos, former Gourmet food editor Shelley Wiseman shares 100 recipes for that iconic and beloved Mexican dish. Wiseman lived in Mexico as a teenager and again as an adult--the second time around came after six years in France and included opening a French cooking school in Mexico City. She became quite the expert on Mexican cooking and the local markets, and coauthored The Mexican Gourmet with Maria Dolores Torres Yzabal.

We recently talked tacos with Wiseman, asking her about corn versus wheat tortillas, the origin of hard shells, and how to make great tacos at home. Best of all, Wiseman offered two favorite recipes from Just Tacos: Fried Avocado Tacos and Tacos with Pork in Green Sauce.

Epicurious: I noticed that the recipes in Just Tacos come from different parts of Mexico. Are tacos eaten all over the country?

Shelley Wiseman: Tacos are definitely eaten all over Mexico. The fillings vary and the tortillas vary. In the northern part of the country flour tortillas are used, reflecting the predominance of wheat cultivation. In central and southern Mexico, corn tortillas predominate. Flour tortillas are also available, though they are used for things like sincronizadas, ham and cheese sandwiched between two flour tortillas heated on a griddle.

Epi: Just Tacos includes recipes for corn and flour tortillas. Are there rules about which kind of tortilla to use for certain tacos?

SW: As I said, in Mexico it is mostly a question of where you're from. Here I think it depends on personal preference. In the book I suggest using flour tortillas for delicate seafood preparations whose flavor might be overwhelmed by corn tortillas. But it depends on the flour tortillas. If you are not making your own, you need to find thin ones that are more delicate than many on the market. On the other hand, hearty meat preparations can be enjoyed with either. I give a preference when it is culturally appropriate. Flavored tortillas, which is more of a modern idea, offer new possibilities for either kind and I included recipes for cilantro-flavored flour tortillas as well as several flavored corn tortillas--adobo (a dried chile puree), black bean, even hibiscus, which actually tastes like sourdough. Flavoring tortillas is so easy to do and is a nice change.

Epi: And if you don't have time to make your own tortillas, do you have tips for using store-bought tortillas?

SW: The important thing is how you heat either corn or flour tortillas. It's best to heat them individually 15 to 30 seconds [per] side on a flat griddle, or until they feel softer and become fragrant. Once heated they can be stacked to keep them soft and warm since they will steam, a good thing. The stacks can be kept warm in a cloth-lined tortilla basket, or even in foil packages in a medium oven. Use them while they're hot!

Epi: Are hard shell tacos just an American invention?

SW: According to Wikipedia, the original patent for the U-shaped device for deep-frying hard taco shells was issued to a New York restaurateur, Juvenico Maldonado, in 1950. I've never seen hard shell tacos in Mexico. The closest thing is the very Mexican flauta, where a corn tortilla is rolled around a filling, secured with toothpicks, and deep fried.

Epi: What are the secrets to making a great taco?

SW: For most fillings, and it's best that the fillings not be too wet or the tortilla will fall apart, there is nothing like the addition of a little crunch of raw onion (white skinned onions are used in Mexico and their flavor is very clean because there is less sugar than yellow onions and they stay fresh tasting longer), a sprinkle of cilantro and--a big Mexican secret--a  squeeze of lime juice. If you have a saucy filling another secret is to lightly brush the tortillas with oil before heating them, which will make them stronger and less absorbent.

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