Your Hand And Your Nose -- Key Tools For The `Doneness` Test

October 17, 1985|By Peter Kump. Copyright 1985 by Peter Kump.

It`s time to reflect about the agony of the past barbecue season. With all its simplicity, barbecuing brings out one of cooking`s greatest mysteries --being able to tell when your dish is done. If you`re surrounded by guests, with each person wanting his meat done a certain way, the pressure can intensify. With a little practice it`s not nearly as difficult as you might think.

Watch a professional and he`ll merely poke the steak or piece of chicken and know what state of doneness it`s at simply by watching how it responds.

The chemistry of what`s happening isn`t difficult to understand. Simply told--and that`s the way I like to approach the chemistry of cooking--the meats we eat are composed of two parts: little pockets of protein held together with gelatinlike strands of connective tissue.

When heat is applied, meat protein firms up slowly just like the yolk of a fried egg. This process starts at about 120 degrees--the temperature at which the gelatinlike connective tissue begins to soften. The tricky part is you`re sort of working at cross purposes: Heat softens the connective tissue

(which tenderizes the meat); but too much heat causes the protein to firm too much and makes the meat tough and chewy.

So the amount of connective tissue dictates the cooking technique. Meats suitable for grilling or sauteing should always be the ``tender`` cuts (ribs, loins, fillets, cutlets and so on). They should be no more than 2 inches thick so that by the time the outside is nicely seared and crisp the interior is pink, moist and tender and you`re ready to serve.

Checking for doneness:

If you firmly poke the middle of a raw chicken breast, steak or other piece of protein, it will yield to your push and an indentation will remain. But as protein firms from cooking, it becomes more resistant.

Rare (125-145 degrees): Rare meat springs back very slowly. The faster it does the closer it is to medium. Try it on yourself: Let your hand relax and dangle, then press the spot between your thumb and index finger. You`ll feel

``rare`` meat, or the way your steak or chop should respond.

Medium (145-155 degrees): Make a loose fist and again touch the spot between your thumb and index finger. A poke will spring back a little faster, just like medium-done meat.

Well-done (160-185 degrees): Well-done meat is bouncy, like a ball. Just touch the tip of your nose and you`ll see at once what well-done is like.

What to cook to what state:

This is easy to remember: most poultry and veal are cooked until medium or well-done, pork is cooked until well-done. Lamb, steaks and hamburgers are usually cooked rare. Most other foods are cooked to medium. Remember that these rules apply to proteins we cook with direct heat. Don`t try to saute a pot roast, with lots of connective tissue, and make it rare. In the recipe below, cook the chicken breasts until they are just springy. If you cook them too long, you`ll dry them out and make them tough.


Four servings

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 8 minutes

4 split, boneless chicken breasts (from two chickens)

Pepper to taste

1 cup flour, spread on wax paper

4 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon minced shallots

1/4 cup Madeira

2/3 cup chicken stock

2 tablespoons minced parsley

1. Just before sauteing, sprinkle the chicken breasts with pepper, roll in the flour and shake off the excess.

2. Put the butter and oil in the skillet (enough to coat the bottom well) over moderately high heat. When the butter begins to deepen slightly in color, put in the chicken breasts.

3. After 3 minutes, turn and saute on the other side for 2 more minutes. Cover and cook an additional 2 to 3 minutes. They are done as soon as they are springy to the touch.

4. Remove to a hot platter, leaving the butter in the skillet. If burned, pour it out, then add another tablespoon. Reduce heat to medium low and saute the shallots in the same pan for 1 minute, not letting them burn.

5. Pour in the wine and stock and boil down rapidly over high heat until the liquid is almost a syrup. Pour over the chicken breasts, sprinkle with parsley and serve.