My Recipe Box

Heirloom Tomatoes


by Eric Rupert

fromFine Cooking
Issue 94




Tomato how-tos





Flavor: A Color Key


Red or pink varieties offer a balance of acid and sweetness that is closest to what is thought of as the classic tomato flavor. The Brandywine variety is the most common because it's hardy and travels well. Roma-shaped varieties, such as Opalka, are meaty, with low seed counts, making them good for sauces or pastes. Yellow and orange varieties, such as Lemon Boy, are the lowest in acid of the heirloom tomatoes, with a mild, sweet flavor. The Garden Peach has an unusual fuzzy skin and a sweet, fruity flavor. Purple or black heirlooms usually appear more deep maroon or brown, like Cherokee Purple (pictured) and Carbon. Most have a smoky-sweet flavor and are more acidic than the yellow or green varieties. White varieties, like White Beauty, tend to have a yellow tinge and a slightly lower acid content than red heirlooms. Their much higher sugar content makes them the sweetest of the heirlooms. Green varieties, such as Green Zebra, are lower in acid than red ones, with a flavor both sweet and tart. Cherry tomato heirlooms, such as Sugary (pictured), Fond Mini, Red Currant, and Mirabel (next slide), are very sweet and juicy. They add nice textural variety when used whole in salads or dishes alongside sliced larger heirlooms.



Easy ways to showcase heirlooms





Photos: Scott Phillips


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