Brisket and pork ribs aren't the only dishes on a barbecue menu

Brisket and pork ribs aren't the only dishes on a barbecue menu

Photo of J.C. Reid

One of the more curious and unique traditions found in Southeast Texas barbecue is the inclusion of fried catfish on the menu right beside brisket and pork ribs. One explanation for this apparent anomaly in the canon of traditional barbecue dishes is the influence of Cajun culture in our corner of the state. But that's just part of it. The reason you see fish on barbecue restaurant menus is due to the observance of Lent - the Christian practice of solemn reflection that often involves fasting or other sacrifice during the 40 days leading to Easter. One of the most traditional forms of sacrifice is to avoid meat on Fridays.

Lent began on Wednesday and runs for about 40 days.

Of course, the tradition of eating fish during Lent goes back hundreds of years. But it was relatively recently that the observation of Lent combined with the bounty of Gulf Coast seafood to produce the unique barbecue menus of Southeast Texas.

It used to just happen on Fridays when barbecue joints would organize fish frys for those avoiding beef and pork. This being Southeast Texas, catfish is king. The fish frys became so popular that fried catfish became a permanent part of the menu. Other dishes with a Cajun influence - such as fried shrimp, gumbo and smoked boudin - were added.

Houston has a long and storied history of barbecue joints serving the city's best fried catfish and other seafood dishes. The now-closed Thelma's Bar-B-Q often was cited as the best catfish in the city. Today, Ray's BBQ Shack serves excellent fried catfish and smoked boudin. Barbecue Inn serves arguably the best fried shrimp in the city. The smoked boudin at Triple J's Smokehouse is legendary. Brooks' Place BBQ in Cypress will occasionally have smoked - not fried - catfish on the menu.

Just this week, Killen's Barbecue in Pearland announced it would add fried catfish and shrimp to their menu in observance of Lent.

In addition to seafood, more dishes continue to be added to barbecue joint menus. This is attributed to the rising cost of beef, particularly brisket. Barbecue joints are scrambling to find dishes they can serve at higher profit margins to offset brisket prices. Killen's has added fried chicken and chicken-fried steak to the menu. Pulled pork continues to show up on menus across the city.

Still, smoked dishes are the foundation of a barbecue joint menu. What other dishes can we expect to see during our next trip to our favorite barbecue restaurant?

Smoked chicken or "yard bird" is a classic example. Properly smoked chicken is one of the best-kept secrets of Texas barbecue. Unfortunately, it's a hit-and-miss dish, as any backyard pitmaster who has cooked "beer can chicken" can attest. Chicken that has been overcooked will have a shoe leather-tough skin and dry, stringy meat. However, when properly cooked and straight out of the smoker, chicken will have a crispy, tender skin that gives way to juicy portions of meat with an essence of smoke flavor.

Pizzitola's Bar-B-Cue is well-known for its properly smoked chicken.

Another dish showing up on barbecue menus is pork belly. The same cut of pork that gives us bacon also can produce great dishes in a barbecue restaurant. Killen's has become known for its smoked bone-in pork belly. CorkScrew BBQ recently started experimenting with a boneless pork belly dish. BBQ Godfather's signature dish is a smoked pork belly sandwich.

Other unique dishes will occasionally appear on barbecue menus. Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor recently introduced "lamb pops" or small, smoked lamb chops. If there is any protein that is perhaps underserved by Texas barbecue, it is lamb. The flavor of the lamb meat is a perfect complement to a spicy dry rub and a skillful application of smoke.

Outside Southeast Texas, you'll find smoked prime rib at Smitty's Market in Lockhart, the "Big Chop" pork chop at Cooper's in Llano. South Texas is known for grilled and smoked goat, or cabrito.

In Houston, El Hidalguense on Long Point is famous for cooking cabrito on open pits in the restaurant. Its barbacoa de borrego (a type of smoked lamb) is one of the best dishes in the city.

Though the most traditional of Texas barbecue joints will always serve the tried-and-true brisket and pork ribs, the continuing evolution of menus is undoubtedly a good thing. Whether it's for Lent or the recent trend of high beef prices, Texas pitmasters are experimenting with new and different techniques and ingredients. We barbecue lovers reap the delicious benefits.