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How to hem your pants at home

By Moataz Hamde
How to hem cover image with pants surrounded by the tools needed to make your pants shorter
Hemming a pair of pants that are too long might seem daunting, but with a few simple steps and some practice you'll master this skill in no time.(

ABC Everyday: Moataz Hamde & Luke Tribe


Ever hemmed? Me neither. I'm 193cm tall so the concept of making anything shorter just seems ridiculous, which is exactly why my editor thought I'd be the right person for the job.

Task: Hem trousers (although this technique can work for skirts too).

Why: To keep my job (more broadly; to shorten trousers).

Time frame: 1-2 hours.

You will need:

  • Fabric scissors
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Trouser pants (pre-washed)
  • Pins
  • Ruler
  • Seam ripper (also known as a 'quick unpick')
  • Sewing needle

Step 1: Figure out how long you want your pants

Note: This part is much easier if you have someone to help you.

Stand as you normally would when wearing the pants. Fold hem at desired length.

Check yourself in front of a mirror and make sure you're happy with the new length. Adjust accordingly.

Do this step while wearing the shoes you intend to wear with the pants — the reason being is that you might want to sit the pants at a certain length along the shoe.

Proper pant length is a matter of much discussion (especially in these times of bare ankles) but traditionally, the general rule for well-tailored formal trousers is to have a slight "break" (a break being the fold or crease caused by the hem hitting your shoe).

If you're making your pants fashionably short, think about how much sock or shin will be visible when you sit down.

It might take a few tries to get this right, but if you nail this part, you won't have to go through the trouble of re-hemming.

Once you know how long you want your pants to be, fold the bottom edge of your pant leg under (instead of cuffing them over the outside).

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Gif of folding trousers inwards to the desired length prior to hemming.
Tuck the bottom of your pants inwards to the desired length you want. Do this wearing shoes you normally wear so you can better determine how they sit.(

ABC Life: Abubakr Mahmoud


Step 2: Pin the new length

Once you've tucked your pants, pin the folds to mark the desired length and keep the pants in place.

Gif of folded pants being pinned at the desired length.
Pin your new desired length while standing.(

ABC Life: Abubakr Mahmoud


Step 3: Measure and check

When you're happy with the length, take off your pants and turn them inside out.

Using the ruler, check the length of the new hem you've pinned. Measure from the new fold line to the original fold and note down each measurement.

It's okay if they're a little different. I suggest going off the lesser measurement of the two. This way you're not going to be chopping off any more than you need to, and you won't be rocking lopsided pant legs.

Step 4: Iron a crease

Once you're happy that both legs are equal in length, start ironing the folds to create a crease.

Step 5: Remove the original hem

Remove all the pins and unfold the new crease you've made. Using the seam ripper, carefully start removing the original hem.

Gif of a hand using the quick unpick to remove the original hem.
Using the quick unpick, remove the original hem.(

ABC Life: Abubakr Mahmoud


Step 6: Trim the excess

Unfold the pants the whole way and cut off any excess fabric. You want to make a cut about 8cm from the new fold line (this will give you enough fabric to do a double tuck down the line). If you don't have that much room, don't cut anything, skip to step 7!

It really helps to have sharp fabric scissors here, otherwise you risk making a dodgy cut (like I did).

Alternatively, you might want to use a pair of pinking shears. Pinking shears are scissors with a serrated blade that makes a zig-zag cut which prevents the fabric from fraying.

cutting the excess fabric
Trim off any excess fabric. Make sure you have enough to spare. If not err on the side of caution and don't trim anything!(

ABC Life: Abubakr Mahmoud


Step 7: Iron another crease

Make a fold from the new edge you just cut up to the fold line, and then iron a new crease.

Once you've done that, fold again at the fold line. That way, your new hem is double tucked.

folding crease from new edge just cut up to the fold line
Fold the edge of the pants UP TO the first fold line then fold again AT the fold line to create a double tucked hem.(

ABC Life: Abubakr Mahmoud


Step 8: Thread and stitch

Using thread that's the same colour as your garment (note: I've used red for contrast in the images) thread the needle and tie it off.

Starting near the inner seam, begin the stitch under the tuck you just made. This is to hide your knot at the end of the thread.

Begin to sew along the new hem line. The stitch is called a 'blind hem stitch'. The concept is basically to ensure the bulk of visible stitching is on the inside of the pants.

Step 9: Tie off

When you reach the end of a trouser leg, tie off a couple of times and cut the excess thread.

tying off the stitch once the new hem has been sewn
Once you've completed the stitch, tie off and cut the excess thread.(

ABC Life: Abubakr Mahmoud


Congratulations. You've now hemmed.

Upon reflection, I really underestimated the skill required to make a neat stitch. Looking at the finished product from the outside, you can hardly tell they've been mended in any way. But turn them inside out, inspect closely and you'll see my lack of experience in all its glory. I'm okay with that.

As with anything that requires a degree of skill, practise makes perfect.

My advice — practise on someone else's clothes before you attempt your favourite pair.

It's a humbling experience, and one I really think everyone should try at least once in their life. If nothing else, you'll be more grateful for everything you ever took for granted.