Haku Patasi Newari Dress for Nepali women

Haku Patasi is made of local household cotton grown in different places surrounding Kathmandu valley.  Haku patasi is black sari 
with red borders worn by Nepali Newari women living in and around Kathmandu valley. Haku means Black and patasi meaning Sari in Newari language.

Haku patasi (black sari) is very different than regular saris and dhoties worn by Nepali females. Haku patasi is usually heavier, and always black sari with red boarder. Haku Patasi is worn without wearing a petticoat (skirt worn inside the sari). 

This sari is worn from the waist to the calves and does not cover ankles as generally other saris do. Newar ladies and Newar girls living in Kathmandu valley and its vicinity wrap Haku Patasi around their waist and tie Patuka like a belt.

Haku Patasi

Patuka usually called janai in Nepa Bhasa (Newari language) is a white long piece of cloth which is wrapped around the waist. Usually patuka is 12 hands (about 18 feet) long. A full sleeved blouse tied at four different corners usually called chaubandi cholo in Nepali and Thana tagu kapoya lan in Nepa bhasa (Newari language) is worn as top above the Patasi. Above it, a shawl or haku gacha is worn.

Different types of jewelries are also worn with Haku Patasi. Some of the jewelries are Loonswan - a gold plate worn in the center of head with designs all over with an image of Lord Ganesh in the middle. Newari women wear a gold necklace known as Tayo Ghau and a golden pendant with stones joined to the necklace with the Haku Patasi. Kilip is worn at the back of the head. Teek Ma is another elaborate piece worn on the head. Teek Ma has many small strings attached to a point and is worn on the side. Beside these, some of the common ornaments are Patachin shikka (simple gold necklace), company shikka (a necklace made of coins) and "Bhimpuma"(necklace made of coral). Along with all these ornaments the earrings worn is u-shaped and is called Makansi. Gold rings in figure and bangles are worn in hands. And kalli (usually made of silver) is also worn around the ankles.

Now-a-days Haku Patasi became the most important part of every Newari jatra, celebration and function. Newar women, girls and even female kids are dressed in Haku Patasi with the red handmade cotton slipper called chatti. 

How to wear Haku Patasi

Putting (wearing) on Haku Patasi is similar as putting on other saris’ except for it is worn without wearing a petticoat. Haku Patasi is warped from upper hip of the body as done in wearing other saris. 

Here is the method of putting on Haku Patasi

Haku Patase

Wrap Haku Patasi around waist

Make knot at the end of Patasi at the parts where right and left end meet 

Make as many plates (mujaa) as necessary as per the length of Patasi, similar as in other sari

More plates are better because of not having petticoat

Tuck Patasi plates inside the wrapped part around the waist right below navel 

Wrap 'Janai' (Patuka) around west to make sure Patasi does not fall off 

The remaining parts of Patasi can be wrapped on top of 'janai'

About Newari Communities of Nepal

Newars are the original inhabitants of Kathmandu valley.  Even though scattered all over Nepal, they are primarily from Kathmandu Valley. Newari People are commonly known as businessmen. Newars are a people from among the larger Tibeto-Burman language group, and speak Newari. Newari language spoken by Newar people living in different part of Nepal have different accent. 

Newars are considered to be one of the very hardworking people in Nepal. They have their own distinct culture, tradition and costumes. Cloths were woven at home by the ladies of the house by local cotton in early days. During different Newari jatra and feast Newar men wear Bhoto Surwal with Bhadgaule Topi or Dhaka Topi and women wear Haku Patasi with Patuki.