Napolitano: It matters how cold you serve the wine

Did you ever notice how a fine piece of art or jewelry always looks better under a spotlight?

The proper lighting brings out the best in the art. Poor lighting diminishes its beauty. Think of wines in the same way, where the serving tempera-ture is to the wine what the lighting is to the art.

A wine's best features will be brought forward when served at the proper temperature. For example, lighter white wines, such as pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc, are best served at about 45 to 50 degrees — almost as cold as a sparkling wine is served. The bright acidity in these wines comes forward and gives a clean, crisp edge when served cold.

Fuller-bodied whites, like chardonnay, taste better just slightly warmer, like about 50 to 55 degrees. This little bit of difference in temperature opens up the stronger aromas typical in a chardonnay. I find that many restaurants and bars serve chardonnay too cold, which suppresses the wine's wonderful bouquet. That's when I cup my hands around the bowl of the glass to assist in bringing the temperature up. I cringe when I am served a white wine in a glass frosted from the chill of being in a refrigerated area.

If you order a bottle of chardonnay for the table, check the bottle for temperature. If it's too cold, don't bother to have the server place it in an ice bucket. Just leave it on the table to allow it to warm up a bit.

For light to medium reds, such as beaujolais and pinot noir, bump up the temperature another notch to around 60 degrees. More robust reds, such as cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel and syrah, can be served up to room temperature — around 68 degrees.

Simply put, white wines have a higher level of acidity, which when chilled makes the wine more appealing on the palate.

White wine also has little or no tannins. Tannic wines, essentially red wines, become very harsh if served cold.

Think of what a cup of tea tastes like after it has cooled.

Remember, tannin comes from juice contact with grape skins, stems and seeds, which is where robust red wine gets its color and mouth-drying effect.
