How to Frame an Interior Wall in a Finished Space

Framing a wall sounds like a big construction job, but it's lighter work than it sounds. It's really nothing more than cutting pieces of two-by-four lumber and joining them, and if you use screws, the impact on the rest of the room should be minimal. If you're framing the wall to separate a space, you may need a door, and that complicates the framing somewhat, but not enough to call in a contractor. Before you start, it's a good idea to set up a cutting station outside so you don't fill the room you're working in with sawdust.


Measure the distance between the two parallel walls that your new one will span with a tape measure if you are creating a new room within the space, or determine how far you want a partition wall to extend into the room. Cut two pieces of two-by-four lumber to that length with a circular saw. They are the top and bottom plates of the wall.


Locate the ceiling joists with a stud finder. If the wall is parallel to the joists, choose one of them and screw the top plate to that joist.


Hold the top plate in position against the ceiling and screw it to the ceiling joists with 3-inch screws.


Drop a plumb bob down to the floor from each end of the top plate and mark the position of the floor. Use the marks to position the bottom plate, and screw it to the floor with 3-inch screws. If the floor is concrete or tile, spread construction adhesive on the bottom of the board, set it in position and nail it to the floor with a power nailer. If there is carpet on the floor, cut out a strip wide enough for the plate.


Measure the distance between the plates and cut two studs for the ends of the wall. Tap them into position and drive 3-inch screws into the edges of each one. Drive the screws an angle near the top and bottom of each stud so that they go through the top and bottom plates.


Check the level of the wall again by putting a level on the end studs. If either of the plates aren't positioned correctly, and the wall is out of plumb, you can fix it unscrew either of the plates, tapping it until the studs are level, then driving new screws.


Frame the doorway, if you want one. Measure the door, add 5 inches to that measurement and install two king studs that distance apart. The extra distance is for the jack studs, the door jamb and 1/2 inch wiggle room. Make sure the king studs are level, then screw them to the plates.


Measure the height of the door and cut two jack studs that are 1/4 inch longer. The difference accounts for the jamb and 1 inch of wiggle room as well as for the fact that the studs sit on the bottom plate of the wall, and not the floor. Screw the jack studs to the king studs, then cut out the section of the bottom plate between them with a reciprocating saw.


Cut a piece of four-by-four lumber to fit between the king studs. Mount it on the tops of the jack studs and screw it to the king studs to finish framing the doorway.


Fill in the rest of the wall with studs, placing them 16 inches apart as measured from their centers. Don't forget to install short studs, or cripples, above the doorway with the same spacing.

Things You Will Need

  • Tape measure
  • Two-by-four lumber
  • Stud finder
  • 3-inch screws
  • Plumb bob
  • Construction adhesive
  • Spirit level
  • Reciprocating saw
  • Four-by-four lumber


  • If you must place the wall in a location where there isn't a ceiling joist to which to screw it, it's probably best to construct a frame consisting of the top and bottom plates and the end studs on the floor and lift it into place. When it's level, screw it to the top and bottom plates of the walls on either side.
  • When you don't want to glue the bottom plate to concrete, you can attach it with concrete nails. You can either pound them with a hammer or shoot them with a gun that has an explosive charge.

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