How to Create Fences From Living Materials

Long before the invention of barbed wire, farmers and homeowners made use of living plants to build fences for keeping animals in and keeping intruders out of their yards. A living fence constructed of willow (Salix spp.) cuttings blocks traffic and provides an attractive appearance of interwoven lattice. Commonly called a fedge, a living willow fence features willows planted at an angle in a diamond weave pattern. Willow cuttings root easily, so the cuttings soon sprout leaves at the top of the fence. Harvest willow whips from an existing tree or purchase a fedge kit to construct the fence.


Drive a stake in the ground at each end where you wish to install the fence; tie a string taut between the stakes to ensure a perfectly straight fence. Clear a strip of grass beside the string line, measuring about 2 to 3 feet wide. Loosen the soil to a depth of about 12 inches. If you have poor soil, remove up to half of the native soil and replace it with finished compost or manure to boost the nutrient content and improve drainage.


Install a post at each end of the fence row, using your choice of natural log posts, 4-by-4-inch lumber or metal T-posts. Bury wooden posts about 24 inches below soil grade and backfill the hole with compacted gravel for drainage. Drive T-posts into the ground until the arrow-shaped anchor plate is completely buried. Hold a carpenter's level against the sides of the posts to check for plumb. Posts should protrude no more than 6 feet from the ground for a 6-foot fence.


Attach three strands of monofilament wire -- fishing line -- or similar wire between the posts to create a trellis to support the new willow whips until they root. Set one strand at the top of the posts, one about 6 inches above soil grade, and the third positioned halfway between the top and bottom strands. You can either tie the wire to the posts or tie them to screw eye hooks screwed into the sides of wooden posts.


Measure and mark the ground every 6 to 8 inches between the posts, using a dowel rod or stick to poke holes in the soil marking the position for the willow whips.


Push an uncut willow branch into the soil at a 45 degree angle with the bottom 8 inches buried in the soil. Mark the opposite end of the branch about 18 inches above where it crosses the top trellis wire. Remove the branch and measure from the base to the mark at the opposite end to determine the length needed for the branches.


Cut numerous willow whips to this measurement; the exact number varies, depending on the length of the fence and whether you want to double up the branches. Cut straight branches for the whips. Rub off all buds except for three or four at the tip of the branch cuttings. Alternatively, purchase live willow whips and soak the ends for about one-half hour before creating the fence.


Push willow cuttings 8 inches deep into the marked holes in the soil, starting from the left side of the fence and working your way to the post on the right side. Insert the cuttings at approximately 45 degree angles, extending upward from left to right. Use soft ties, such as fabric strips or elastic cord, to tie the whips to the trellis wires at each intersection. When you reach the opposite end of the fence row, some of the whips will extend past the outer post.


Weave willow cuttings in front and behind the whips that run in one direction. Start from the top left corner of the fence row and run these cuttings downward, forming a diagonal line from the top, left to the bottom, right side. This series of willow cuttings should crisscross over the first series of cuttings, forming a diamond pattern. Push the base end of the willow cuttings 8 inches deep in the soil. Tie the cuttings at each intersection with a trellis wire.


The the willow cuttings together at each point of intersection, using soft ties or elastic cord that stretches as the trees grow. Each "X" intersection needs its own tie in order to hold the shape.


Wrap the loose ends of diagonal cuttings around the posts if the cuttings extend past the sides of the posts. You can wrap the ends around the post and weave them into the fence so they run in the opposite direction; if the whip runs upward from left to right, wrap it around the post and weave it running upward from right to left. Alternatively, tie them to the post so they extend straight up and conceal posts.


Cut the tips of the branches at the top of the fence back to about 6 inches above the top strand of trellis wire. Make an angled cut so water doesn't pool on the cut surface. These cuts encourage bushy growth at the top of the fence. New shoots will develop along the lengths of the willow cuttings. Leave the shoots in place if you want the fence filled in with greenery or remove them immediately if you want to keep the woven pattern of bare wood exposed.


Spread a 4-inch layer of bark chip mulch across the bare soil in the fence line to prevent weeds from competing with the new willow trees. Do not push the mulch directly against the branch cuttings. Mulch also helps retain soil moisture, which is especially important with willows that require moderate to wet soil.


Cut the tops of the new willow trees back to about 6 inches above the top of the posts each year just before winter to encourage bushier growth each spring. Alternatively, you can remove leaves from the new length and weave them to make the fence taller as the willows grow. You can remove the strands of wire from the posts and branches after about one year when the cuttings develop strong roots and do not require a support structure.