Complete Solar Panel Cost Guide

An average home in the United States requires approximately 20 to 24 kWh of electricity every day. An array able to produce this much power must 4 kW or larger (based on 5 sun hours per day). The average cost of a solar system of this size is $17,000 and ranges from $15,000 to $20,000 installed (not taking any incentives into consideration).

In This Guide

Average Cost and Factors that Affect it

To determine how much it would cost you to get PV panels installed to cover part or all of your electricity bill, you need to determine the following:

  • How many kilowatt hours does your home use per month? (see electricity bill)
  • How much roof area do you have to install panels on? (south facing roof is ideal)
  • How many sun hours does your location get per day on average? (averaged over the course of a year)
  • How much can you afford to invest in offsetting your energy bill?
Sun Hours Per Day (Insolation) for United States
Sun Hours Per Day (Insolation) for United States (Click to Enlarge)

For a more accurate estimate, here is a much more detailed map of solar energy potential:

Cost Per Watt by Country
Comparing worldwide prices (2009 data), the average cost per watt installed of a 2-5kW residential solar power system was $4.70 in Japan, $7.70 in Germany and from $5-$11 in the United States based on a report by Renewable & Sustainable Energy Reviews.

Factors that Affect the Cost

Prices vary based on building and system configuration, the type and brand of equipment used and what company does the installation. The type and quality of panel as well as the size of the array affects the final price of an installation. Manufacturers price their products based on their efficiency and longevity. Panels that retain their efficiency longer are usually more expensive. Monocrystalline units are the most costly but generate the most watts per area, so you will need fewer panels and not as much space. Building integrated panels are also on the expensive end, but they are a good choice if appearance is important.

You location can also have a big impact on the final price of a solar energy project. Federal and local governments in many countries offer financial incentives to make buying and installing systems more affordable. Prices also depend on local weather conditions. Due to limited sun hours per day, the cost per kilowatt installed is higher than in sunnier countries like Mexico.

Grid-Tie versus Off-Grid Installations

Grid-tie solar installations are connected to the utility company’s power lines. If the home or business needs more electricity than it can produce it draws energy from the grid and if it is producing excess electricity, it injects it into the electrical grid. Electricity added to the grid is credited to the homeowner or business’ electricity bill. When power is drawn from the grid, this electricity credit is reduced. This process is called “net-metering” and is accomplished with a bi-directional or smart meter.

There are also grid-tied installations that reserve power in a battery backup that is used during power outages. They charge the batteries so that continuous power is available, even if the utility grid is down. When the outage is fixed, net-metering resumes.

System Size (Watts)Monthly GenerationCost Range
1000 - 3600275 - 480 kwh$3000 - $7250
3700 - 6000480 - 785 kwh$7500 - $11000
7200 - 12000980 - 1600 kwh$11250 - $21500
14100 - 191001950 - 2600 kwh$22500 - $34500

Note: This data does not take tax, installation, battery backup systems or racking into consideration and are before deducting any rebates or tax credits. They are based on 5 hours of insolated sunshine per day.

Off-grid systems are usually implemented in locations that are too remote to receive service from a utility. These systems can generate AC power that can run regular appliances and electric devices. They store power in batteries that are used to supply power when sunlight is not available. Those that generate DC power are used to power remote telecommunications gear, appliances used in boats and recreational vehicles as well as farm equipment. DC is less expensive than AC because it does not require an inverter. AC systems can power common home appliances.

System Size (Watts DC)Monthly GenerationCost Range
200 - 60029 - 75 kwh$1000 - $1750
1000 - 1500130 - 200 kwh$3500 - $6750
2000 - 3000300 - 400 kwh$7500 - $8500
4250 - 5750580 - 785 kwh$9500 - $16000
60001950 - 2600 kwh$16,000+


Payback Period Breakdown

The decision to install a solar energy system is often driven by environmental concerns and/or economic incentives. Either way, it offers an ROI in line with other home improvement and remodeling projects. To calculate the payback period for the project, first find out the final installed cost per watt, the electricity cost per kWh in the area, and the average number of sunlight hours in the location. Once you know this information, you can use the graph below to figure out approximately what the payback time would be.

The following chart displays how the value of electricity generated (cents per kWh) and the cost per watt paid to install a system (dollars per watt) affect the payback period. The less expensive the system was to put in and higher the electricity rate is in the area, the shorter the payback period is. For example, if the average electricity rate in your area is $0.30 per kWh and the system was $4 per watt to install, then you can expect the payback time to be just under 10 years. Payback time can be affected by financial incentives, the financing rates and weather conditions. Locations such as the UK, Germany and Japan get much less sunlight (as low as 2.5 sun hours per day) which can increase the cost per watt to $8 and the payback period to 25 years.

Solar Panel Payback Period

Financial Incentive Programs

The US federal government, the UK government, and many other governments around the world offer business and residential tax incentives and rebates on the purchase and installation of solar energy systems. The federal tax credit covers a substantial portion of the cost of installation. State and local governments and local utilities also offer rebates and credits to help defray costs. Depending on your location, financial incentives and rebates can cover between 10% and 60% of the total. Details for the 30% federal residential renewable energy tax credit (and many other incentives) can be found here:

Many countries have also enacted feed in tariffs that help guarantee a reasonable rate of return on renewable energy projects, which encourages the development of and investment in renewable energy sources. These programs typically involve owners being paid a much higher rate per watt they add to the grid than the price they pay for buying electricity from the grid. They essentially sell all the power they produce to the utility/government at a high price and buy back what they need at a much lower cost. Some banks allow solar system installations to be rolled into a mortgage or offer special rates and terms to finance installations.

Over the last 20 years, the cost of these systems has decreased by a factor of 7. As the residential and commercial demand for solar panels increases and the efficiency of the technology improves, they will continue to drop and overall return on investment will rise. For more information, visit the US Department of Energy’s SunShot program.

How Solar Panels Work

A solar panel is a packaged, connected series of photovoltaic (solar) cells that generates electricity. Solar cells are typically made of silicon and use the photovoltaic effect to convert the energy of sunlight (photons) directly into direct current (DC) electricity. An inverter is then used to convert the DC power to AC (alternating current) power, which is the kind of power used by the electrical grid and almost all non-battery operated electrical devices (whatever you plug into the outlets in your home). Due to the relatively low efficiency of current cell technologies, each panel can only produce a small amount of power. Most installations require an array of panels.

The size of the array of panels required to produce a given amount of power depends on the panels’ efficiency. To produce 300 watts of power, a 7% efficient 300 watt panel will take up twice the area as a 14% efficient 300 watt panel. The highest efficiency available for commercial units is approximately 21%. Every panel is given a DC power output rating based on the results of standard testing. They typically range in rating from 100 watts to 350 watts. They are also subject to about 0.5% degradation in output per year. Most carry a warranty that guarantees 90% of rated power for at least 10 years and 80% of rated output for a minimum of 25 years.

Photovoltaic modules are usually either thin-film or crystalline cells on wafers of refined silicon and are protected from the elements by sheets of glass and metal frames. Silicon is used because it is a semiconductor. When the sun’s radiation (a photon) hits a silicon atom, it can be absorbed and cause the emission of an electron. When many electrons are emitted inside a semiconductor, an electric current is produced. Silver or copper conductors draw the small currents off the entire array of cells and direct them into one output. Connections can be made in parallel to achieve a certain amount of current or in series to produce a desired output voltage.

Off Grid Solar System

Solar panels, which are made up of multiple modules, are either rigid or semi-rigid. Some systems only connect to a series of batteries that are used for backup power, most are connected to a home or business to provide power directly while others are connected to a building as well as the electrical grid. A complete solar energy system is made up of an array of units, an inverter to turn DC voltage into AC, a meter to track the power that is produced, a battery to store the energy and all the necessary wiring.

Types, Benefits and Applications

Crystalline panels are the most common type of PV panel. The technology has been around for about 50 years and was first developed for powering satellites. They are capable of being up to 20% efficient. Most of these technologies are highly reliable (25 year warranties are common) and produce similar results in terms of output efficiency. The primary downsides of using crystalline are that they can be bulky, expensive, prone to damage, are rigid and require a lot of labor to install. That said, they are often the best choice for a residential solar energy system. They come in two varieties: monocrystalline and polycrystalline.

Monocrystalline silicon panels are made up of single-crystal wafer cells cut from continuous, cylindrical crystal ingots. They can be cut completely circular to minimize waste, but they are often trimmed into other, more square-like shapes (see below). Since each is made from a single crystal, the cells have a uniform, deep blue color. They are the most efficient units available today (they produce more power per square foot), but they cost more than other types.

Polycrystalline silicon panels are made of multi-crystal wafer cells cut from square ingots that are created by pouring molten silicon into a mold. This way they can be cut into square wafers to minimize waste. Each is made up of random crystal formations which make it various colors of blue (below). They are slightly less energy efficient, but also cheaper than monocrystalline.

Thin film modules are very inexpensive, but also quite inefficient (require more area per watt produced). Their efficiency is 10% or less and their long-term durability is often questioned. They are less expensive because they require less of the active material to function (below). In fact, they can be made microscopically thin, flexible and light weight and are deposited on a sheet of glass or metal instead of having to grow ingots and slice wafers. Cadmium telluride (CdTe) is the most cost effective thin film technology. Amorphous silicon is a material used to create panels that can be molded to the shape of almost any surface. Most of the research and development of solar cells is currently being focused on thin film technologies.

Building integrated photovoltaic (BIPV) panels look like an integral part of a roof since they are the same size and shape as shingles (below). They have lower efficiency and are more expensive than other panel types. They are most effective on large roofs in very sunny areas.

Market Share of Solar Cell Technologies
Market Share of Solar Cell Technologies

Mono- and polycrystalline panels made up 87% of the market share in 2010.


National Renewable Energy Laboratory
California Solar Statistics

Over to You

Have you purchased solar panels and/or had a system installed in the past? Have an estimate for a project and not sure if it’s too high? Leave a comment below on your experiences.

Alternatively, if you have a question about panels or solar energy in general, please send it to us using the contact page so we can answer it for you.

33 thoughts on “Complete Solar Panel Cost Guide

  1. I will have many questions in future, but my immediate concern is how do I get financial incentives in the form of tax credits if I am on disability and file no taxes? Would they be able to tie it in to property taxes since that is only tax I pay, other then state taxes on purchases. Thank you for your time, Nicole

    • Nicole, unfortunately, the federal income tax credit won’t help people who owe no income tax. Because you have no reportable income, you fall into that category. You can find out how it works on if you look for the page called Energy Incentives for Individuals: Questions and Answers.

      Briefly stated, the way a tax credit works is that it reduces the amount of tax you owe for the year–but it can’t reduce that amount to less than zero. If you had already had all the taxes you owe withheld, as is the case for many people with earned incomes, the credit would result in your getting a refund–either the full amount withheld, if that was less than the credit, or the amount of the credit, if at least that much had been withheld.

      I’ve heard that some tax credits that go unused can be carried into future years. Or at least that was the case some time ago. I don’t know if that’s possible with these tax credits–or, for that matter, with any tax credits today.

  2. I noted you said the average home in the US uses 20-24 Kwh. i just checked my electrical bill which says I use 50Kwh! I am a 2 person household. We run our AC (living in Florida) 24/7 at a constant 75 degrees and are careful turning lights off. does this not sound outrageous and what would you think the cause could be? With this amount of usage, a solar system to cover all electrical needs would be up to $40,000! I just can’t understand this as I am desperately needing this system since very worried about coming economic collapse and possibly no electricity. Thank you again for your time, Nicole

    • Nicole, it’s reasonable for energy bills in Florida to be higher than the national average. As you know, this far south we need air conditioning year-round. Even when it isn’t all that hot, there’s the darn humidity.

      As you noted above, you can’t benefit from the federal tax credit. But don’t despair. You might have local resources that can help, and there’s a lot more to look into in terms of reducing your usage.

      First, check with your electric utility about getting an energy audit. This audit will identify all the places heat is getting into your home and identify the most cost-effective ways to keep it out. If the heat never gets into your home, then your AC doesn’t have to remove it. Some utilities do these audits for free. Others will point you to local contractors–in my case, one of the contractors did the audit for free. (I’m still not sure why.)

      Caulk and weatherstripping, solar screens, and even insulation aren’t all that expensive, but you do have to be able to do the work. If the problems found in your audit are not things you can fix yourself, find out if there are weatherization programs in your community. Again, your electric utility might be able to at least point you in the right direction. And don’t be so proud that you don’t look to charity. In many communities, volunteers or charitable groups are happy to do this work for people whose means are limited.

      Finally, don’t rule solar out completely. Your local utility might have its own incentive program. In my case, the incentive offered by the utility is three times the amount offered by the federal tax incentive. (The federal incentive is based on my cost after this incentive was applied, so together they reduce my cost to about 35 percent, more or less, of the cost of the panels and installation.)

      Good luck!

    • 50 kWh per day? That’s insanity. Sounds like you need better insulation and perhaps leave the doors and windows closed.

      • 50kw per day is nothing, we use 100kw per day, do an energy audit, we have

        1) Upstairs AC 3kw/hr
        2) Downstairs AC 4kw/hr
        3) Electric dryer 3kw/hr
        4) Computer 0.4kw/hr
        5) Lights 0.5-1kw/hr

        We use anywhere from 2-12kw per HOUR, x24 hours in a day you can easily hit 50-100kw in a single day if you really use your appliances.

  3. I live in Puerto Rico. The cost/kwh is $0.30. My average consumption from the power company is about 600 kwh/month. I currently have an electric hot water heater.
    I plan to obtain a passive solar water heater ($2700.00) and a solar panel system, grid tied, which is projected to provide 4590 watts from 18 panels (255w/panel) sited in 340 sq. ft area with microinverters ($18000.00 total cost). I figure the cost/kw to be $3.92. This seems like a pretty reasonable thing to do. Would you agree?

    • Here are some of my recommendations for others on this website trying to reduce electrical costs.

      First, it’s easier to reduce costs by reducing usage. Most people will respond to this by stating they don’t want to give up watching TV or be too hot or too cold. Well, I’m here to tell you that you can reduce electrical consumption by 30-50% without having a major impact on your life.

      I live in Canada in the coldest climate on this earth with winter temperatures as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit. My electrical usage never goes above 160 kwhr per month. How do I do it?

      1. Switch all light bulbs to led if possible or at least to 13 watt cfls
      2. Plug your TV and microwave oven into power bars and turn off when not in use. This goes for all TVs and microwaves in your house. If you have cable through a set top box, put your set top box on a separate power outlet from your TV to avoid the annoyance of resetting your set top box. All instant on devices that have a number pad or remote control use power every hour of every day. Between your TV and microwave, they could be using anywhere from about 45 watts per hour every hour 365 days per year at minimum. If you have multiple TVs or microwaves this number could be 2-3 times higher. So do the math and 45 watts is .045kilowatts per hour x 24 hours per day x 365 days per year = 394.2 kilowatt hours in a year. Now if you have multiple devices this could be much higher
      3. Get rid of old fridges and replace with new ones if possible. Fridges before 2001 used 70% more energy. If possible try to limit yourself to a single fridge or at least two new fridge models if you require more than one
      4. For those with electric water heaters, purchase an electrical timer to turn the heat off at night and turn it up just a bit before you would wake up and require heat for a shower or dishes
      5. Wash clothes only in cold water using detergents designed for cold water use as washing in hot water is no longer necessary for the most part.modern detergents chemically remove stains without the need for heat
      6. In hot areas install blinds and trees to reduce sun entering your home and causing heat build up. Use radiant barriers to reflect the heat away from your home. In cold areas do the opposite, use quality insulation regardless of climate but make sure it is installed correctly for your climate type. The higher the r value the better. Use either spray foam or rigid insulation in your basement
      7. Put insulation around your hot water tank
      8. Insulate your pipes and your ducts
      9. Purchase equipment that uses less energy in the first place. For instance laptop computers and tablets use a fraction of the energy of a desktop computer. An led tv uses less than a plasma. Etc. Use the concepts of calculus! Isaac Newton, one of the founders of Calculus, developed the concept of the limit and the derivative. These tools of mathematics are often used to determine global maxima and minima of specific functions. To put it in laments terms we want to minimize our electrical usage as much as possible. So if an led light bulb can reduce your usage by a further 2 or 3 watts per hour more than a CFL then get an led if you can afford one

      • I’m glad to hear you say that. I think you are right in saying one could save 30 to 50%
        with out feeling it much.
        I have cut my use by about 75% and I’m down to about 500kWh/ year.

  4. In Texas (in 2013), installed systems are running ~$17K per 5kW system. If you want 10kW, then ~$34K, … If you live in area with local rebates, then these costs aren’t too bad. General electric rates are between $.098 – .16 per kWh. Local rebates (like Austin Energy) can be in the 30% range. When coupled with the Federal Tax credit, then I believe a 10kW system is a no-brainer. I would ever consider a low-interest loan. My current provider does not provide any incentives. I can’t get the payback less than 14 years.

    Most grid-tie systems do not have or use batteries because the cost becomes exorbitant.

    The “average” house on the US does use ~30kWh/day, but you have to remember many of these houses are very small, many don’t have central AC, etc. A 2500 sqft house in Austin will use 3 times that (~90kWh/day).

  5. I live in san francisco, CA. I want to install a solar system with about 5kw AC, the cost is about $23,900. this is before tax credit and rebate. do you think this is a reasonable price?

    • hi there kenny thats too high they said a 6 kw solar system cost $16,000 dollers and a 3 kw solar system cost $8,500 thats 9 kw for $24,500 vs 5 kw at $23,900 thats 4 kw more out put for only $600 spnding that kind mony you should get more kw

    • I don’t know how you can answer the question of whether the system is too expensive or not based upon not knowing: Type of Panels, Type of Inverters, warrantees, permits, how long the company has been in business, whether they sub-contract the work or not, whether electric work needs to be done etc, etc. Someone from Texas can’t make an intelligent answer to this question as the marketing costs in San Francisco, CA raise the cost to do business there significantly.

    • Forrest, I’m still waiting to get my panels installed, so I can’t speak from personal experience, but friends who have solar panels tell me that their panels do better than the roof in a hailstorm! The hail tore up the roof around the panels, but the panels themselves came through without so much as a dent, a crack, or a chip.

      Whether they will withstand wind depends largely on how they are installed. Look into your installer’s record, and see what guarantees they will make. Generally, though, it’s the same story as with hail–the panels not only survive unscathed but also protect the roof from damage.

    • Yes, this happens when you are making more power than your home is using and you are looped in with your utility companies power grid.

    • Thats called “Net-Metering” in Chicago. But don’t be mislead by the information you get its a use-it or lose-it program. You lose what ever is left over and the end of each month. Yours may be different locally so check your power company specifics.

  6. Dear Sir, Madam,

    My name is Ricky Espinosa, Filipino Citizen, can you me help to figure out the cost if in will put a Grid tied Solar System in the House, I’m presently consuming 300KW per month based on my present electric bill, could you provide me the estimated cost for the complete system roof mount type.

    Thank you and Im waiting for your reply ASAP.


  7. There is now a way to get solar on the house you own via the PACE program. It is opening up a new avenue for funding because the costs are tied into your property tax for 5 to 20 years. The California program just lowered their rates, the amount you borrow is not tied to your individual credit score, and if you sell the house, the cost is bundled in the property tax. There is no “adder” that raises the cost each year – this is a fixed cost. This is a nationwide program so check with your local government and look up the PACE program online for your state or municipality.

  8. I just purchased & had installed a relatively inexpensive system of 600 watts (2 panels and invert-er that plugs into any socket) total cost was $1600.00. how do i get insentives here in Cali??

  9. I live in central Virginia and have a 3 Acre back yard that is unencumbered by buildings or trees. I get almost direct sunlight all day long (9 hr winter, 12 h summer). I am contemplating a 32′ by 32′ solar panel located about 100-150 feet from my house. what would be my approximate cost of installation, How many kilowatts could I expect to capture and how much should I expect to lose due to distance?

  10. My family just got an off-grid system put into our lake home in Arizona which cost us $12,000. Very happy with it so far though. We researched for a few months and I did some of the work myself. This post is pretty accurate on pricing.

  11. I live in the Pacific an island that is mostly sunny through out the year. I want to install solar panels at my 3 bedroom home, 33′ x 26′, two storey building. How much do I need to pay and how much kilowatt a month a 3 bedroom house requires of solar panels would to be installed. Bear in mind that where I am there are only two months that it rains but those two months the rain comes and goes so it’s not really a rain season.

    Your respond is appreciated.

    Thank you,

  12. Hi, can you please tell me how to calculate or get total kilowatt that i use in my house. I leave in a standard 3 bedroom flat, I have television set, dvd, energy saving bulb, freezer, and different sockets in all the rooms that connect to 1 or 2 things e.g Laptops,phones, cameras,etc.


  13. Dear Sir
    Good Day
    Can you please give us a rough idea/estimation for 20MW Grid tie Solar Power System.
    The area is 16 acre i e (16X43,560.sq ft)
    Can we install more bigger capacity project there?
    1)Price estimation for all China made goods.
    Warranty will be 20 years from the date of installation.
    Will highly appreciate for your kind prompt reply.

  14. I installed a 5.6kw DC system on my home. Had my electrician friend tie in the electrical part. Total cost was 1.39 / watt. This after 30% investment tax credit and 10% state credit. On top of that the utility is paying us 3 cents per kW-h for 8 yr contract. Very happy. 6 year payoff.

  15. I am looking at installing a 78Kw ground mount system. I have tentative approval form the , local planning board with some details on screening to be worked out.
    I am wondering if I am paying too much!

    the system includes 256 modules each panel is 305W.
    I have 6 -10Kwac inverters
    2 -7.6 kwac ”
    Using Schletter racking system 94’x107
    there are some provisions for utility upgrades approx 5k
    I will recieve approx 53K from NH rebate incentive as well as 30% Fed tax credit.
    I am also looking at an additional 20K in screening costs
    total cost 288K for the array not including screening


    • @ John looks like a small comercial for your solar system. Check Ironridge ground mount system, you buy pipes localy and the connections you can buy it from Ironridge and they have a system with 5 panels landscape and if you use 3″ pipe you can have footings at 12 ft apart. Check also solar panels 250-270W you can save 10-20K having more panels at lower wattage. Instead of having 8 inverters you can have 1-2 inverters larger, but dependes on your specifics of the electrical system.

  16. Is there a company that makes solar panels that matches the environment so they kind of disappear in the background?

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