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Reptile Resource Center

Ball (Royal) Python


Python regius


20-30 years


3-4 feet. Have grown as large as 5 feet

* Females will grow larger than males


Warm side - 85-90 degrees F

Basking - 90 degrees F

Cool side - 75 degrees F

* If room temperature falls below 75 degrees F at night, a supplemental infrared or ceramic heat fixture may be necessary.


50% ***May need moist box for shedding time


Most ball pythons purchased at pet stores and from good breeders in the U.S. are bred and hatched in captivity. To help reduce the number of snakes poached from the wild; do make sure your pet is indeed captive bred. The “ball python” name comes from the manner in which they curl up into a ball when they are nervous. They will carefully place their heads in the middle of this tight ball for protection. The ball python species is originally from the forests of Central and Western Africa, and they enjoy both the ground and trees (semi-arboreal). In Europe they are known as “Royal Pythons”


Ball pythons have flat heads and a square snout. They have 100-150 teeth that curve inward, which allow them to hold onto their prey. Normal color ball pythons have black striping on their heads and irregular brown spots on their bodies called “lobes”. “Pits” on the fronts of their face, formed by special scales, allow the snake to sense changes in heat as finite as 3/1000th of a degree. Ball pythons can also see extremely well in darkness. These features allow them to find prey in dimly lit environments. Both males and females have small claw-like “anal spurs” near the end of their tails. These are thought to be the evolutionary remainders of hind legs.


Nocturnal (most active at night) however they do not mind out-of-cage time during the day. Ball pythons are calm and usually non-aggressive, very curious, and like to explore in and out of the cage.





Feed in the morning or in the evening. Ball Pythons will eat mice and rats in captivity, although they would not in the wild. In the wild they prefer birds, other snakes, frogs and lizards. They are constrictors; which means they constrict their prey to suffocate it and then eat it. If you have trouble feeding your ball python, please refer to our “Snake Feeding” fact sheet for help. A healthy snake will usually eat about every 7-10 days. An adult will eat from 3 adult mice to two medium rats at each feeding, depending on the size of the snake. Remember that it is always easier for a reptile to digest several smaller prey items rather that one large one. Defecation usually follows 2-3 days after eating. Do not feed again until snake has defecated from previous feeding. Some snake owners find it easier to feed their pet in a separate enclosure, free of bedding and furniture. This way you can be sure your snake eats all its food properly and the snake will not pick up any bedding when grabbing prey and mistakenly ingest it along with the prey.

*Do not handle your snake for 24 hours after eating to prevent regurgitation.













  • 40 breeder reptile tank (36x18) with very secure mesh top. 20 L (20x13) tank is acceptable for baby snakes.
  • Light dome and basking bulb (Lg. dome and 100 watt bulb for 36x18 tank, 75 watt for a 20L (20x23) tank)
  • Dry hidey house Moist/humid hidey house for shedding time.
  • Shredded aspen bedding, newspaper or paper towels for the bottom of the tank.
  • Large crock water bowl - big enough to soak in.
  • Moist box (with reptile moss) for shedding time.
  • Ball Python Book



ENCLOSURE SIZE:The enclosure should be a solid glass sided tank long enough to create the two separate temperature gradients (warm and cool); a ball python tank should be at least 30-40 gallons or larger for an adult ball python and at least 20L for a baby.












BRANCHES & PLANTS: Ball pythons do enjoy climbing, so sturdy climbing branches can be included as well.



All reptiles must have distinct day and night periods in their enclosure to maintain their biological rhythms. Ball Pythons need 8-12 hours of daytime and 8-12 hours of nighttime. However, as the daylight hours change seasonally outside, daylight hours inside the tank should reflect the same.


A timer should be used to set day/night periods so the lights turn on and off automatically.













  • Mites: Symptoms include small reddish-brown spots around eyes, pits, mouth & under scales. For treatment, see exotic pet veterinarian. Parasite will be identified and proper treatment administered.
  • Mouth rot: Symptoms include soft, dented mouth & jaw line. Cottage cheese-like material in mouth. For treatment, see exotic pet veterinarian for proper therapy and medications.
  • IBD(Inclusion Body Disease): Symptoms include lethargy (snake stops eating and defecating); loses muscle tone; regurgitation; head tremors; disorientation; knotting; flipping on back. There is no known cure, however, see your exotic pet veterinarian for ‘quality of life’ supportive care.
  • Eye caps: Eyes are cloudy while snake is not in shed. Sometimes happens after a shed when eye caps do not come off along with the shed. To treat, see exotic pet veterinarian. Heat and humidity in enclosure must be optimized.


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