Editor's note: Doris Reynolds, who authored this column since 1986, died Nov. 17 at 92. Because she completed her columns in advance, we will continue to publish her columns through the month.

To look at an eggplant, you wouldn't think it to be a mysterious vegetable. And it isn't a vegetable, by the way; it really falls into the fruit category, but who are we to care? The eggplant is so beautiful, so versatile and so delicious that it really doesn't matter.

Why it's called eggplant by Americans is beyond me. It has absolutely nothing to do with eggs, except perhaps its oval shape. The eggplant is a member of the potato family but botanically is described as a berry. When the eggplant was first introduced into the United States it was considered an ornamental since its verdant growth and star-shaped flower were considered its most desirable features. Eggplants are part of the nightshade family along with peppers, potatoes and tomatoes.

The eggplant is a native of India and as such is an important part of Indian cuisine. It was brought to England late in the 16th century, where it was called "mad apple," and was described in John Gerard's “Herball” as having "a mischievous quality." Anyone who has baked an eggplant without piercing air holes in it knows that an exploding eggplant is indeed not only mischievous but downright troublesome.

France discovered the eggplant in the 17th century and it was called "aubergine," a name used also in England. Mediterranean cuisine, with its emphasis on vegetables in combination with meat, uses a great deal of eggplant with much success. The Italians make a tempting and pungent pasta sauce from fresh tomatoes and eggplant. The Greek moussaka, combining eggplant with meat sauce, cheese and often pasta is also a traditional dish.

Middle Eastern dishes using eggplant are standard fare in Lebanon, Israel and Syria. And throughout parts of Asia, eggplant is considered to be a staple in diets that combine it with other vegetables, herbs and spices.

Eggplant can be roasted, grilled, sautéed, steamed, pureed and baked and are an excellent way to celebrate Meatless Monday. My very favorite vegetarian sandwich is to fill a pita bread pocket with eggplant relish (also known as Poor Man's Caviar), add tofu or garbanzo beans and dive in for a low-fat, spicy and delicious quick meal.



(Eggplant Relish)

1 3-pound eggplant

2 or 3 cloves garlic, or to taste

1 medium purple onion, diced

1 large cucumber, diced

½ medium red pepper, diced

½ medium green pepper, diced

¼ cup best quality red wine vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 large tomato, peeled and diced

4 to 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Place the eggplant on a baking sheet, pierce the skin several times to release the air and bake in a 375-degree oven for about 45 minutes or until the eggplant is baked through. (Use tester).

I bake my eggplant in the microwave, making sure there are plenty of holes punched in the eggplant. I bake it on high for about 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the size of the eggplant.

After the eggplant is baked, allow it to cool while the rest of the ingredients are diced and mixed together. While still hot, scoop out the eggplant and combine with the rest of the ingredients. Adjust the seasonings to taste. Chill before serving. This is a great relish to serve with lamb, chicken and cold meats of any kind.

Doris Reynolds is the author of “When Peacocks Were Roasted and Mullet Was Fried.”Also available is a four-part DVD, “A Walk Down Memory Lane with Doris Reynolds.” They are available for sale in the lobby of the Naples Daily News. 

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