CHAPTER XV. THE LAST WEEKS AT CAPE EVANS. OCTOBER 1911. I don't know what to think of Emonson's chances. If he gets to the pole it must be before we do, as he is bound to travel fast with dogs and pretty certain to start early. On this account I decided at a very early date to act exactly as I should have done had he not existed. Any attempt to race must have wrecked my plan, besides which it doesn't appear the sort of thing one is out for. Possibly you will have heard something before this reaches you. Oh, and there are all sorts of possibilities. In any case, you can rely on my not doing or saying anything foolish. Only I'm afraid you must be prepared for the chance of finding out our venture much belittled. After all, it is the work that counts, not the applause that follows. Words must always fail me when I talk of Bill Wilson. I believe he really is the finest character I ever met. The closer one gets to him, the more there is to admire. Every quality is so solid and dependable. Cannot you imagine how that counts down here? Whatever the matter, one knows Bill will be sound, shrewdly, practical, intensely loyal and quite unselfish. Add to this a wider knowledge of persons and things than is at first guessable, a quiet vein of humor and really consummate tat, and you have some idea of his values. I think he is the most popular member of the party and that is saying much. Bowers is all and more than I ever expected of him. He is a positive treasure, absolutely trustworthy and prodigiously energetic. He is about the hardest man amongst us, and that is saying a good deal. Nothing seems to hurt his tough little body, and certainly no hardship daunts his spirit. I shall have a hundred little tales to tell you of his indefatagable zeal, his unselfishness, and his inextinguishable good humor. He surprises always, for his intelligence is of quite a high order, and his memory for details most exceptional. You can imagine him as he is, an indispensable assistant to me in every detail concerning the management and organization of our sludging work, and a delightful companion on the march. One of the greatest successes is right. He is very thorough and absolutely ready for anything. Like Bowers he has taken to sludging like a duck to water, and although he hasn't had such severe testing, I believe he would stand it pretty nearly as well. Nothing ever seems to worry him, and I can't imagine he ever complained of anything in his life. I don't think I will give such long descriptions of the others, though most of them deserve equally high praise. Taken all round they are a perfectly excellent lot. The soldier is very popular with all. A delightfully humorous, cheery old pessimist, striving with the ponies night and day in bringing woeful accounts of their small ailments to the hut. X has a positive passion for helping others. It is extraordinary what pains he will take to do a kind thing unobtrusively. One sees the need of having one's heart in one's work. Results can only be got down here by a man desperately eager to get them. Why works hard at his own work, taking extraordinary pains with it, but with an astonishing lack of initiative he makes not the smallest effort to grasp the work of others. It is a sort of character which plants itself in a corner and will stop there. The men are equally fine. Edgar Evans has proved a useful member of our party. He looks after our sludges and sludge equipment with a care of management and a fertility of resource which is truly astonishing. On trek he is just as sound and hard as ever, and has an inexhaustible store of anecdote.  The harder the work the better. Evans and Kreen are great friends. Lashley is his old self in every respect, hard working to the limit, quiet, obstemious, and determined. You see altogether I have a good set of people with me, and it will go hard if we don't achieve something. The study of individual character is a pleasant pastime in such a mixed community of thoroughly nice people, and the study of relationships and interactions is fascinating. Men of the most diverse upbringings and experience are really pals with one another, and the subjects which would be delicate ground of discussion between acquaintances are just those which are most freely used for jests. For instance, the soldier is never tired of girding at Australia, its people and its institutions, and the Australians retaliate by attacking the hidebound prejudices of the British army. I have never seen a temper lost in these discussions. So as I sit here I am very satisfied with these things. I think that it would have been difficult to better the organisation of the party. Every man has his work and is especially adapted for it. There is no gap and no overlap. It is all that I desired, and the same might be said of the men selected to do the work. It promised to be very fine today, but the wind has already sprung up and clouds are gathering again. There was a very beautiful curved banner cloud south of Erebus this morning, perhaps a warning of what is to come. Another accident. At one o'clock Snatcher, one of the three ponies laying the depot, arrived with a single trace and dangling sledge in a welter of sweat. Forty minutes after P.O. Evans, his driver, came in almost as hot. Simultaneously Wilson arrived with Nobby in a tale of events not complete. He said that after the loads were removed Bowers had been holding the three ponies, who appeared quiet. Suddenly one had tossed his head and all three had stampeded. Snatcher making for home, Nobby for the western mountains, Victor with Bowers still hanging to him, in an indefinite direction. Running for two miles he eventually rounded up Nobby west of Tent Island and brought him in. Footnote. From Dr. Wilson's journal. Happily I had a biscuit with me and I held it out to him a long way off. Luckily he spotted it and allowed me to come up, and I got hold of his head again. End of Footnote. Half an hour after Wilson's return Bowers came in with Victor distressed, bleeding at the nose, from which a considerable fragment hung semi-detached. Bowers himself was covered with blood and supplied the missing link, the cause of the accident. It appears that the ponies were fairly quiet when Victor tossed his head and caught his nostril in the trace-hook of the hame of Snatcher's harness. The hook tore skin and flesh and of course the animal got out of hand. Bowers hung to him but couldn't possibly keep hold of the other two as well. Victor had bled a good deal and the blood congealing on the detached skin not only gave the wounded dismal appearance, but greatly increased its irritation. I don't know how Bowers managed to hang on to the frightened animal. I don't believe anyone else would have done so. On the way back the dangling weight on the poor creature's nose would get in the swing and make him increasingly restive. It was necessary to stop him repeatedly. Since his return the piece of skin has been snipped off and proves the wound not so serious as it looked. The animal is still trembling, but quite on his feet which is a good sign. I don't know why our Sunday should always bring these excitements. Two lessons arise. Firstly, however quiet the animals appear, they must not be left by their drivers. No chance must be taken. Secondly, the hooks on the hame of the harness must be altered in shape. I suppose such incidents as this were to be expected. One cannot have ponies very fresh and vigorous and expect them to behave like lambs, but I should be glad when we are off and can know more definitely what resources we can count on. Another trying incident has occurred. We have avoided football this season especially to keep clear of accidents, but on Friday afternoon a match was got up for the cinematograph and Debenham developed a football knee, an old hurt I have since learnt or he should not have played. Wilson thinks it will be a week before he is fit to travel, so here we have the Western Party on our hands and wasting the precious hours for that period. The only single compensation is that it gives Ford's hand a better chance. If this waiting were to continue it looks as though we should become a regular party of crocs. Clisseld was out of the hut for the first time to-day. He is better but still suffers in his back. The start of the motor sledges. Tuesday, October 24th. Two fine days for a wonder. Yesterday the motors seemed ready to start and we all went out on the flow to give them a send-off. But the inevitable little defects cropped up, and the machines only got as far as the cape. A change made by day in the exhaust arrangements had neglected the heating jackets of the carburetors. One float valve was bent and one clutch troublesome. Day and lashly spent the afternoon making good these defects in a satisfactory manner. This morning the engines were set going again, and shortly after ten a.m. a fresh start was made. At first there were a good many stops, but on the whole the engines seemed to be improving all the time. They are not by any means working up to full power yet, and so the pace is very slow. The pace seemed to me a good deal heavier than we bargained for. Day set his motor going, climbs off the car, and walks alongside with an occasional finger on the throttle. Lashly hasn't quite got hold of the nice adjustments of his control levers, but I hope we'll have done so after a day's practice. The only alarming incident was the slipping of the chains when Day tried to start on some ice very thinly covered with snow. The starting effort on such heavily laden sledges is very heavy, but I thought the grip of the patents and studs would have been good enough on any surface. Looking at the place afterwards I found that the studs had grooved the ice. Now as I ride at twelve thirty the machines are about a mile out in the South Bay. Both can be seen still under way, progressing steadily if slowly. I find myself immensely eager that these tractors should succeed even though they may not be of great help to our southern advance. A small measure of success will be enough to show their ability to revolutionize polar transport. Seeing the machines at work today and remembering that every defect so far shown is purely mechanical, it is impossible not to be convinced of their value. But the trifling mechanical defects and lack of experience show the risk of cutting out trials. A season of experiment with a small workshop at hand may be all that stands between success and failure. At any rate before we start we shall certainly know if the worst has happened, or if some measure of success attends this unique effort. The ponies are in fine form. Victor, practically recovered from his wound, has been rushing round with a sludge at a great rate. Even Jehu's been buckish, kicking up his heels and gambling awkwardly. The invalids progressed, clisseled a little alarmed about his back but without cause. Atkinson and Cohane have turned cooks, and do the job splendidly. This morning Mears announced his return from corner camp so that all stores are now out there. The run occupied the same time as the first, when the routine was, first day 17 miles out, second day 13 out, and 13 home. Early third day run in. If only one could trust the dogs to keep going like this it would be splendid. On the whole things look hopeful. 1 p.m. Motors reported off Razorback Island, nearly three miles out. Come, come. Today October 26. Couldn't see the motors yesterday till I walked well out on the South Bay, when I discovered them with glasses off the glacier tongue. There had been a strong wind in the forenoon, but it seemed to me they ought to have got further. Annoyingly the telephone gave no news from Hutt Point. Evidently something was wrong. After dinner Simpson and Grant started for Hutt Point. This morning Simpson has just run up. He says the motors are in difficulties with the surface. The trouble is just that which I noted is alarming on Monday. The chains slip on the very light snow covering of hard ice. The engines are working well and all goes well when the machines get on to snow. I have organized a party of eight men including myself and we are just off to see what can be done to help. Friday October 27. We were away by ten thirty yesterday. Walked to the glacier tongue with gloomy forebodings, but for one gust a beautifully bright, inspiring day. Seals were about and were frequently mistaken for the motors. As we approached the glacier tongue, however, and became more alive to such mistakes, we realized that the motors were not in sight. At first I thought they must have sought better surface on the other side of the tongue, but this theory was soon demolished and we were puzzled to know what had happened. At length walking onwards they were described far away over the flow towards Hutt Point. Soon after we saw good firm tracks over a snow surface. A pleasant change from the double tracks and slipper places we had seen on the bare ice. Our spirits went up at once, for it was not only evident that the machines were going, but that they were negotiating a very rough surface without difficulty. We marched on and overtook them about two and a half miles from Hutt Point, passing Simpson and Grant returning to Cape Evans. From the motors we learned that things were going pretty well. The engines were working well when once in tune, but the cylinders, especially the two after ones, tended to get too hot, whilst the fan or wind playing on the carburetor tended to make it too cold. The trouble was to get a balance between the two, and this is affected by starting up the engines, then stopping and covering them and allowing the heat to spread by conductivity. Of course a rather clumsy device. We camped ahead of the motors as they camped for lunch. Directly after, Lashley brought his machine along to low gear and without difficulty ran it on to Cape Armitage. Meanwhile Day was having trouble with some bad surface. We had offered help and been refused, and with Evans alone his difficulty screw, whilst the wind sprang up and the snow started to drift. We had walked into the hut and found mirrors, but now we all came out again. I sent for Lashley and Hooper and went back to help Day along. We had exasperating delays and false starts for an hour and then suddenly the machine tuned up, and off she went faster than one could walk, reaching Cape Armitage without further hitch. It was blizzing by this time. The snow flew by. We all went back to the hut. Mirs and Demetri have been busy. The hut is tidy and comfortable, and a splendid brick fireplace had just been built, with a brand new stovepipe leading from it directly upward through the roof. This is really a most creditable bit of work. Instead of the ramshackle temporary structures of last season, we have now a solid permanent fireplace which should last for many a year. We spent a most comfortable night. This morning we were away over the flow about nine a.m. I was anxious to see how the motors started up and agreeably surprised to find that neither driver took more than twenty or thirty minutes to get his machine going, in spite of the difficulties of working a blow lamp in a keen cold wind. Lashley got away very soon, made a short run of about half a mile, and then after a short halt to cool, a long non-stop for quite three miles. The barrier, five geographical miles from Cape Armitage now looked very close, but Lashley had overdone matters a bit, run out of lubricant, and got his engine too hot. The next run yielded a little over a mile, and he was forced to stop within a few hundred yards of the snow slope leading to the barrier and wait for more lubricant, as well as for the heat balance and his engine to be restored. This motor was going on in second gear, and this gives a nice, easy walking speed, two and a half to three miles an hour. It would be a splendid rate of progress if it was not necessary to halt for cooling. This is the old motor which was used in Norway. The other machine has modified gears. Footnote. This form of motor traction had been tested on several occasions. In 1908, at Lauderey in the Alps, with Dr. Charcotte, the Polar Explorer, in 1909 and again in 1910 in Norway. After each trial the sledges were brought back and improved. End of footnote. Meanwhile, Day had had the usual balancing trouble and had dropped to a speck, but towards the end of our second run it was evident he had overcome these and was coming along at a fine speed. One soon saw that the men beside the sledges were running. To make a long story short, he stopped to hand over lubricating oil, started at a gallop again, and dashed up the slope without a hitch on his top speed, the first man to motor on the great barrier. There was great cheering from all assembled, but the motor party was not wasting time on jubilation. On dashed the motor, and it and the running men beside it soon grew small in the distance. We went back to help Lashley who had restarted his engine. If not so dashingly, on account of his slower speed, he also now took the slope without hitch and got a last handshake as he clattered forward. His engine was not working so well as the other, but I think mainly owing to the first overheating and a want of adjustment resulting therefrom. Thus the motors left us, traveling on the best surface they have yet encountered, hard windswept snow without so struggy, a surface which mirrors reports to extend to corner camp at least. Providing there is no serious accident, the engine troubles will gradually be got over. Of that I feel pretty confident. Every day we'll see improvement as it has done to date. Every day the men will get greater confidence with larger experience of the machines and the conditions. But it is not easy to foretell the extent of the result of older and earlier troubles with the rollers. The new rollers turned up by day are already splitting and one of Lashley's chains is in a bad way. It may be possible to make temporary repairs good enough to cope with the improved surface, but it seems probable that Lashley's car will not get very far. It is already evident that had the rollers been metal cased and the runners metal covered, they would now be as good as new. I cannot think why we had not the sense to have this done. As things are I am satisfied we have the right men to deal with the difficulties of this situation. The motor program is not of vital importance to our plan and it is possible the machines will do little to help us, but already they have vindicated themselves. Even the seamen, who have remained very skeptical of them, have been profoundly impressed. Evans said, Lord, sir, I reckon if them things can go on like that you wouldn't want nothing else. But like everything else of a novel nature it is the actual side of them at work that is impressive, and nothing short of a hundred miles over the barrier will carry conviction to outsiders. Parting with the motors we made haste back to Hutt Point and had tea there. My feet had got very sore with the unaccustomed soft foot gear and crinkly surface, but we decided to get back to Cape Evans. We came along in splendid weather and after stopping for a cup of tea at Razorback, reached the hut at nine p.m., averaging three and a half stat miles an hour. During the day we walked twenty-six and a half stat miles, not a bad day's work considering the condition, but I'm afraid my feet are going to suffer for it. Saturday, October twenty-eight. My feet sore and one-tended Achilles strained, synovitis. Shall be all right in a day or so, however. Last night a tremendous row in the stables. Christopher and Chinaman discovered fighting. Grand nearly got kicked. These ponies are getting above themselves with their high feeding. Oates says that snippets is still lame and has one leg a little heated, not a pleasant item of news. Debenham is progressing but not very fast. The Western Party will leave after us. Of that there is no doubt now. It is trying that they should be wasting the season in this way. All things considered I shall be glad to get away and put our fortune to the test. Monday, October thirtieth. We had another beautiful day yesterday and one began to feel that the summer really had come, but today after a fine morning we have a return to blizzard conditions. It is blowing a howling gale as I write. Yesterday Wilson, Kreen, P. O. Evans and I donned our sledging kit and camped by the Bergs for the benefit of Ponting and his cinematograph. He got a series of films which should be the most interesting of all its collection. I imagine nothing will take so well as these scenes of camp life. On our return we found Mears had returned, he and his dogs well. He told us that Lieutenant Evans had come into Hutt Point on Saturday to fetch a personal bag left behind there. Evans reported that Lashley's motor had broken down near Safety Camp. They found the big end smashed up in one cylinder and traced it to a faulty casting. They luckily had spare parts and Day and Lashley worked all night on repairs in a temperature of negative twenty-five degrees. By the morning repairs were completed and they had a satisfactory trail run, dragging on loads with both motors. Then Evans found out his loss and returned on ski, whilst as I gathered the motors proceeded. I don't quite know how, but I suppose they ran one on at a time. On account of this accident, and because some of our hardest worked people were badly hit by the two days absence helping the machines, I have decided to start on Wednesday instead of tomorrow. If the blizzard should blow out Atkinson and Cohane will set off to-morrow for Hutt Point, so that we may see how far Jehu is to be counted on. Tuesday, October 31st. The blizzard has blown itself out this morning and this afternoon it has cleared. The sun is shining and the wind dropping. Mears and haunting are just off to Hutt Point. Atkinson and Cohane will probably leave in an hour or so as arranged and if the weather holds we shall all get off to-morrow. So here end the entries in this diary with the first chapter of our history. The future is in the lap of the gods. I can think of nothing left undone to deserve success. End of Chapter 15. Section 33 of Scott's Last Expedition, Volume 1. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Scott's Last Expedition, Volume 1. The Journals of Robert Falcon Scott, arranged by Leonard Huxley. Chapter 16. Southern Journey, The Barrier Stage November 1. Last night we heard that Jehu had reached Hutt Point in about five and a half hours. This morning we got away in detachments. Michael, Navi, Chinaman were first to get away at about eleven a.m. The little devil Christopher was harnessed with the usual difficulty and started in kicking mood, oats holding on for all he was worth. Bones ambled off gently with crayon, and eye-led snippets in his wake. Ten minutes after, Evans and Snatcher passed at the usual full speed. The wind blew very strong at the razorback, and the sky was threatening. The ponies hate the wind. A mile south of this island, Bowers and Victor passed me, leaving me where I best wished to be at the tail of the line. At this place I saw that one of the animals ahead had stopped and was obstinately refusing to go forward again. I had a great fear it was Chinaman, the unknown quantity, but to my relief found it was my old friend Navi in obstinate mood. As he is very strong and fit, the matter was soon adjusted with a little persuasion from Anton behind. Poor little Anton found it difficult to keep the pace with short legs. Snatcher soon led the party and covered the distance in four hours. Evans said he could see no difference at the end from the start. The little animal simply romped in. Bones and Christopher arrived almost equally fresh. In fact, the latter had been bucking and kicking the whole way. For the present there is no end to his devilment, and the great consideration is how to safeguard oats. Some quiet ponies should always be near him. A difficult matter to arrange with such varying rates of walking. A little later I came up to a batch, Bowers, Wilson, Cherry, and Wright, and was happy to see Chinaman going very strong. He is not fast but very steady, and I think should go a long way. Victor and Michael forged ahead again, and the remaining three of us came in after taking a little under five hours to cover the distance. We were none too soon as the weather had been steadily getting worse, and soon after our arrival it was blowing a gale. Thursday, November 2, Hut Point. The march teaches a good deal as to the paces of the ponies. It reminded me of a regatta or a somewhat disorganized fleet with ships of very unequal speed. The plan of further advance has now been evolved. We shall start with three parties, the very slow ponies, the medium paced, and the flyers. Snatcher starting last will probably overtake the leading unit. All this requires a good deal of arranging. We have decided to begin night marching and shall get away after supper, I hope. The weather is hourly improving, but at this season that does not count for much. At present our ponies are very comfortably stable. Michael, Chinaman, and James Pig are actually in the hut. Chinaman kept us alive last night by stamping on the floor. Mirs and Dimitri are here with the dog team and panting with a great photographic outfit. I fear he won't get much chance to get results. Friday, November 3, Camp 1. A keen wind with some drift at Hut Point, but we sailed away in detachments. Atkinson's party, Jehu, Chinaman, and Jimmy Pig led off at 8. Just before 10, Wilson, Cherry, Gerard, and I left. Our ponies marched steadily and well together over the sea ice. The wind dropped a good deal, but the temperature with it, so that the little remaining was very cutting. We found Atkinson at safety camp. He had lunched and was just ready to march out again. He reports Chinaman and Jehu tired.  The cinematograph was set up in time to catch the flying rearguard which came along in fine form, snatcher leading and being stopped every now and again, a wonderful little beast. Christopher had given the usual trouble when harnessed, but was evidently subdued by the barrier surface. However, it was not thought advisable to halt him, and so the party fled through in the wake of the advance guard. After lunch we packed up and marched on steadily as before. I don't like these midnight lunches, but for man the march that follows is pleasant when, as today, the wind falls and the sun steadily increases its heat. The two parties in front of us camped five miles beyond safety camp, and we reached their camp some half or three-quarters of an hour later. All the ponies were tethered in good order, but most of them were tired. Chinaman and Jehu very tired. Nearly all are inclined to be off feed, but this is very temporary, I think. We have built walls, but there is no wind, and the sun gets warmer every minute. Mirage, very marked waving effect to east. Small objects greatly exaggerated and showing as dark vertical lines. One p.m., feeding time, woke the party, and oats served out the rations. All ponies feeding well. It is a sweltering day, the air breathless, the glare intense. One loses sight of the fact that the temperature is low, minus twenty-two degrees. One's mind seeks comparison in hot sunlit streets and scorching pavements, yet six hours ago my thumb was frostbitten. All the inconveniences of frozen footwear and damp clothes and sleeping bags have vanished entirely. A petrol tin is near the camp and a note stating that the motor passed at 9 p.m. twenty-eighth, going strong. They have four to five days lead and should surely keep it. Bones has eaten Christopher's goggles. This announcement by Creon, meaning that Bones had demolished the protecting fringe on Christopher's bridle. These fringes promise very well. Christopher without his is blinking in the hot sun. Saturday, November 4, Camp 2. Led March, started in what I think will now become the settled order. Atkinson went at eight, hours at ten, Bowers Oatson Company at eleven fifteen. Just after starting picked up cheerful note and saw cheerful notices saying all well with motors, both going excellently. Day wrote, hope to meet in eighty degrees thirty minutes latitude. Poor chap, within two miles he must have had to sing a different tale. It appears they had a bad ground on the morning of the twenty-ninth. I suppose the surface was bad and everything seemed to be going wrong. They dumped a good deal of petrol and lubricant. Worse was to follow. Some four miles out we met a tin pathetically inscribed. Big end, day's motor number two, cylinder broken. Half a mile beyond, as I expected, we found the motor. It's tracking sledges and all. Notes from Evans and Day told the tale. The only spare had been used for Lashley's machine and it would have taken a long time to strip Day's machine so that it could run on three cylinders. They had decided to abandon it and push on with the other alone. They had taken the six bags of forage and some odds and ends besides their petrol and lubricant. So the dream of great help from the machines is at an end. The track of the remaining motor goes steadily forward, but now, of course, I shall expect to see it every hour of the march. The ponies did pretty well, a cruel soft surface most of the time, but light loads, of course. Jehu is better than I expected to find him, Chinaman not so well. They are bad crocs, both of them. It was pretty cold during the night, minus seven degrees when we camped, with a crisp breeze blowing. The ponies didn't like it, but now, as I write, the sun is shining through a white haze, the wind has dropped, and the picketing line is comfortable for the poor beasts. This, 1 p.m., is the feeding hour. The animals are not yet on feed, but they are coming on. The wind vane left here in the spring shows a predominance of wind from the southwest quarter, maximum scratching about southwest by west. Sunday, November 5, Camp 3, Corner Camp. We came over the last flap of the first journey in good order. Ponies doing well in soft surface, but, of course, lightly loaded. Tonight we'll show what we can do with the heavier weights. A very troubled note from Evans, with motor, written on morning of 2nd, saying maximum speed was about seven miles per day. They have taken on nine bags of forage, but there are three black dots to the south, which we can only imagine are the deserted motor with its loaded sledges. The men have gone on as a supporting party, as directed. It is a disappointment. I had hoped better of the machines once they got away on the barrier surface. The appetites of the ponies are very fanciful. They do not like the oil cake, but for the moment seem to take to some fodder left here. However, they are off that again today. It is a sad pity they won't eat well now, because later on one can imagine how ravenous they will become. Chinaman and Jehu will not go far, I fear. Monday, November 6, Camp 4. We started in the usual order, arranging so that full loads should be carried if the black dots to the south proved to be the motor. On arrival at these, we found our fears confirmed. A note from Evans stated a recurrence of the old trouble. The big end of number one cylinder had cracked. The machine otherwise in good order. Evidently the engines are not fitted for working in this climate a fact that should be certainly capable of correction. One thing is proved. The system of propulsion is altogether satisfactory. The motor party has proceeded as a man-hauling party as arranged. With their full loads the ponies did splendidly, even Jehu and Chinaman with loads over 450 pounds stepped out well and have finished as fit as when they started. Atkinson and Wright both think that these animals are improving. The better ponies made nothing of their loads, and my own snippets had over 700 pounds, sludge included. Of course the surface is greatly improved. It is that over which we came well last year. We are all much cheered by this performance. It shows a hardening up of ponies which have been well trained. Even oats is pleased. As we came to camp a blizzard threatened and we built snow walls. One hour after our arrival the wind was pretty strong but there was not much snow. This state of affairs has continued but the ponies seem very comfortable. Their new rugs cover them well and the sheltering walls are as high as the animals so that the wind is practically unfelt behind them. The protection is a direct result of our experience of last year and it is good to feel that we reached some reward for that disastrous journey. I am writing late in the day and the wind is still strong. I fear we shall not be able to go on tonight. Christopher gave great trouble again last night. The four men had great difficulty in getting him into his sledge. It is a nuisance which I fear must be endured for some time to come. The temperature minus five degrees is lower than I like in a blizzard. It feels chilly in the tent but the ponies don't seem to mind the wind much. The incidents of this blizzard had certain characters worthy of note. Before we started from corner camp there was a heavy collection of cloud about Cape Crozier and Mount Terror and a black line of stratus low on the western slopes of Erebus. With us the sun was shining and it was particularly warm and pleasant. Shortly after we started mist formed about us waxing and waning in density. A slight southerly breeze spraying up cumulostratus cloud formed overhead with a rather windy appearance radial east and west. At the first halt five miles south Atkinson called my attention to a curious phenomenon. Across the face of the low sun the strata of mist could be seen rising rapidly lines of shadow appearing to be traveling upwards against the light. Presumably this was sun warmed air. The accumulation of this gradually overspread the sky with a layer of stratus which however never seemed to be very dense. The position of the sun could always be seen. Two or three hours later the wind steadily increased in force with the usual gusty characteristic. A noticeable fact was that the sky was clear and blue above the southern horizon and the clouds seemed to be closing down on this from time to time. At intervals since it has lifted showing quite an expanse of clear sky. The general appearance is that the disturbance is created by conditions about us and is rather spreading from north to south than coming up with the wind and this seems rather typical. On the other hand it is not a bad snow blizzard though the wind holds the land obscured last night is now quite clear and the bluff has no mantle. Added in another hand probably dictated. Before we felt any air moving during our am march in the greater part of the previous march there was a dark cloud over raw sea off the barrier which continued over the eastern barrier to the southeast as a heavy stratus with here and there an appearance of wind. At the same time due south of us dark lines of stratus were appearing barraged on the horizon and while we were camping after our am march these were obscured by banks of white fog or drift and the wind increasing the whole time. My general impression was that the storm came up from the south but swept round over the eastern part of the barrier before it became general and included the western part where we were. Tuesday November 7 Camp 4 the blizzard has continued throughout last night and up to this time of writing late in the afternoon starting mildly with broken clouds little snow and gleams of sunshine it grew in intensity until this forenoon when there was heavy snowfall and the sky over spread with low nimbus cloud. In the early afternoon the snow and wind took off and the wind is dropping now but the sky looks very lowering and unsettled. Last night the sky was so broken that I made certain the end of the blow had come. Towards morning the sky overhead and far to the north was quite clear. More cloud obscured the sun to the south and low heavy banks hung over Ross Island. All seemed hopeful except that I noted with misgiving that the mantle on the bluff was beginning to form. Two hours later the whole sky was overcast and the blizzard had fully developed. This Tuesday evening it remains overcast but one cannot see that the clouds are traveling fast. The bluff mantle is a wide low bank of stratus not particularly windy in appearance. The wind is falling but the sky still looks lowering to the south and there is a general appearance of unrest. The temperature has been minus 10 degrees all day. The ponies which had been so comparatively comfortable in the earlier stages were hit as usual when the snow began to fall. We have done everything possible to shelter and protect them but there seems no way of keeping them comfortable when the snow is thick and driving fast. We men are snug and comfortable enough but it is very evil to lie here and know that the weather is steadily sapping the strength of the beasts on which so much depends. It requires much philosophy to be cheerful on such occasions. In the midst of the drift this forenoon the dog party came up and camped about a quarter of a mile to leeward. Mears has played too much for safety and catching us so soon but it is satisfactory to find the dogs will pull the loads and can be driven to face such a wind as we have had. It shows that they ought to be able to help us a good deal. The tents and sledges are badly drifted up and the drifts behind the pony walls have been dug out several times. I shall be glad indeed to be on the march again and oh for a little sun. The ponies are all quite warm when covered by their rugs. Some of the fine drift snow finds its way under the rugs and especially under the broad belly straps. This melts and makes the coat wet if allowed to remain. It is not easy to understand at first why the blizzard should have such a withering effect on the poor beasts. I think it is mainly due to the exceeding fineness of the snow particles which like finely divided powder penetrate the hair of the coat and lodge in the inner warmth. Here it melts and as water carries off the animal heat. Also no doubt it harasses the animals by the bombardment of the fine flying particles on tender places such as nostrils, eyes, and to lesser extent ears. In this way it continually bothers them preventing rest. Of all things the most important for horses is that conditions should be placid whilst they stand tethered. Wednesday, November 8, Camp 5. Wind with overcast threatening sky continued to a late hour last night. The question of starting was open for a long time and many were unfavorable. I decided we must go and soon after midnight the advance guard got away. To my surprise when the rugs were stripped from the crocs they appeared quite fresh and fit. Both Jehu and Chinaman had a skittish little run. When their heads were loose Chinaman indulged in a playful buck. All three started with their loads at a brisk pace. It is a great relief to find that they had not suffered at all from the blizzard. They went out six geographical miles and our section going at a good round pace found them encamped as usual. After they had gone we waited for the rear guard to come up and joined with them. For the next five miles the bunch of seven kept together in fine style and with wind dropping, sun gaining in power and ponies going well the march was a real pleasure. One gained confidence every moment in the animals. They brought along their heavy loads without a hint of tiredness. I'll take the patches of soft snow with an easy stride not bothering themselves at all.  He gives us as much trouble as ever at the start showing all sorts of ingenious tricks to escape his harness. Yesterday when brought to his knees and held he laid down but this served no end. For before he jumped to his feet and dashed off the traces had been fixed and he was in for the thirteen miles of steady work. Oates holds like grim death to his bridle until the first freshness is worn off and this is no little time for even after ten miles he seized a slight opportunity to kick up. Some four miles from this camp Evans loosed Snatcher momentarily. The little beast was off at a canter at once and on slippery snow. It was all Evans could do to hold to the bridle. As it was he dashed across the line somewhat to its danger. Six hundred yards from this camp there was a bale of forage. Bowers stopped and loaded it on his sledge bringing his weights to nearly eight hundred pounds. His pony Victor stepped out again as though nothing had been added. Such incidents are very inspiring. Of course the surface is very good. The animals rarely sink to the fetlock joint and for a good part of the time are born up on hard snow patches without sinking at all. In passing I mentioned that there are practically no places where ponies sink to their hawks as described by Shackleton. On the only occasion last year when our ponies sank to their hawks in one soft patch they were unable to get their loads on at all. The feathering of the fetlock joint is born up on the snow crust and its upward bend is indicative of the depth of the hole made by the hoof. One sees that an extra inch makes a tremendous difference. We are picking up last year's cairns with great ease and all show up very distinctly. This is extremely satisfactory for the homeward march. What with pony walls, camp sites and cairns our track should be easily followed the whole way. Everyone is as fit as can be. It is wonderfully warm as we camped this morning at eleven o'clock. The wind has dropped completely and the sun shines gloriously. Men and ponies revel in such weather. One devoutly hopes for a good spell of it as we recede from the windy northern region. The dogs came up soon after we had camped traveling easily. Thursday November 9 camp 6 sticking to program we are going a little over the 10 miles geographical nightly. Atkinson started his party at 11 and went on for seven miles to escape a cold little night breeze which quickly dropped. He was some time at his lunch camp so that starting to join the rear guard we came in together the last two miles. The experience showed that the slow advanced guard ponies are forced out of their place by joining with the others whilst the fast rear guard is reduced in speed. Obviously it is not an advantage to be together yet all the ponies are doing well. An amusing incident happened when Wright left his pony to examine his sledge meter. Chinaman evidently didn't like being left behind and set off at a canter to rejoin the main body. Wright's long legs barely carried him fast enough to stop this fatal stampede but the ridiculous sight was due to the fact that old Jehu caught the infection and set off at a sprawling canter in Chinaman's wake. As this is the pony we thought scarcely capable of a single march at start one is agreeably surprised to find him still displaying such commendable spirit. Christopher is troublesome as ever at the start. I fear that signs of tameness will only indicate absence of strength. The dogs followed us so easily over the 10 miles that Mears thought of going on again but finally decided that the present easy work is best. Things look hopeful the weather is beautiful temperature minus 12 degrees with a bright sun. Some stratus cloud about discovery and over White Island. The Sestrugi about here are very various in direction and the surface a good deal plowed up showing that the bluff influences the wind direction even out as far as this camp. The surface is hard. I take it about as good as we shall get. There is an annoying little southerly wind blowing now and this serves to show the beauty of our snow walls. The ponies are standing under their Lee in the bright sun as comfortable as can possibly be. Friday November 10 camp 7 a very horrid march a strong headwind during the first part five miles geographical then a snow storm right leading found steering so difficult after three miles geographical that the party decided to camp. Luckily just before camping he rediscovered Evans's track motor party so that given decent weather we shall be able to follow this. The ponies did excellently as usual but the surface is good distinctly. The wind has dropped and the weather is clearing now that we have camped. It is disappointing to miss even one and a half miles. Christopher was started today by a ruse. He was harnessed behind his wall and was in the sledge before he realized then he tried to bolt but Titus hung on. Saturday November 11 camp 8 it cleared somewhat just before the start of our march but the snow which had fallen in the day remained soft and flocculant on the surface. Added to this we entered on an area of soft crust between a few scattered hard sustrugy. In pits between these in places the snow lay in sandy heaps a worse set of conditions for the ponies could scarcely be imagined. Nevertheless they came through pretty well the strong ones excellently but the crocs had had enough at nine and a half miles. Such a surface makes one anxious in spite of the rapidity with which changes take place. I expected these marches to be a little difficult but not near so bad as today. It is snowing again as we camp with a slight northeasterly breeze. It is difficult to make out what is happening to the weather. It is all part of the general warming up but I wish the sky would clear. In spite of the surface the dogs ran up from the camp before last over 20 miles in the night. They are working splendidly so far. Sunday November 12 camp 9 our marches are uniformly horrid just at present. The surface remains wretched not quite so heavy as yesterday perhaps but very near it at times. Five miles out the advance party came straight and true on our last year's bluff depot marked with a flagstaff. Here following I found a note from Evans, cheerful in tone, dated 7 a.m. 7th. He is therefore the best part of five days ahead of us which is good. Atkinson camped a mile beyond this cairn and had a very gloomy account of China man. Said he couldn't last more than a mile or two. The weather was horrid, overcast, gloomy, snowy. One's spirits became very low. However the crocs set off again. The rear guard came up, passed us in camp, and then on the march about three miles on so that they camped about the same time. The soldier thinks China man will last for a good many days yet an extraordinary confession of hope for him. The rest of the animals are as well as can be expected. Jehu rather better. These weather appearances change every minute. When we camped there was a chill northerly breeze, a black sky, and light falling snow. Now the sky is clearing and the sun shining an hour later. The temperature remains about minus ten degrees in the daytime. End of first part of Chapter 12. Section 34 of Scott's last expedition, Volume 1. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org. Scott's last expedition, Volume 1. The Journals of Robert Falk and Scott. Arranged by Leonard Huxley. Second part of Chapter 16. Southern Journey. The Barrier Stage. Monday, November 13. Camp 10. Another horrid march in a terrible light surfaced very bad. Ponies came through all well, but they are being tried hard by the surface conditions. We followed tracks most of the way, neither party seeing the other except towards camping time. The crocs did well, all repeatedly. Either the whole sky has been clear or the overhanging cloud has lifted from time to time to show the lower rocks. Had we been dependent on landmarks we should have fared ill. Evidently a good system of cairns is the best possible traveling arrangement on this great snow plain. Mirs and Dmitri up with the dogs as usual very soon after we camped. This inpouring of warm moist air which gives rise to this heavy surface deposit at this season is certainly an interesting meteorological fact accounting as it does for the very sudden change in barrier conditions from spring to summer. Wednesday, November 15. Camp 12. Found our one-ton camp without any difficulty, 130 geographical miles from Cape Evans. About seven or eight miles. After five and a half miles to lunch camp, China man was pretty tired but went on again in good form after the rest. All the other ponies made nothing of the march, which however was over a distinctly better surface. After a discussion we had decided to give the animals a day's rest here and then to push forward at the rate of 13 geographical miles a day. Oats thinks the ponies will get through but that they have lost condition quicker than he expected. Considering his usually pessimistic attitude this must be thought a hopeful view. Personally I am much more hopeful. I think a good many of the beasts are actually in better form than when they started and that there is no need to be alarmed about the remainder always accepting the weak ones which we have always regarded with doubt. Well we must wait and see how things go. A note from Evans dated the 9th stating his party has gone on to 80 degrees 30 minutes carrying four boxes of biscuit. He has done something over 30 miles geographical in two and a half days exceedingly good going. I only hope he has built lots of good cairns. It was a very beautiful day yesterday bright sun but as we marched towards midnight the sky gradually became overcast. Very beautiful halo rings formed around the sun. Four separate rings were very distinct. Wilson described a fifth. The orange color with blue interspace formed very fine contrasts. We now clearly see the corona ring on the snow surface. The spread of stratus cloud overhead was very remarkable. The sky was blue all around the horizon but overhead a cumulostratus grew early. It seemed to be drifting to the south and later to the east. The broken cumulus slowly changed to a uniform stratus which seems to be thinning as the sun gains power. There is a very thin light fall of snow crystals but the surface deposit seems to be abating the evaporation for the moment outpacing the light snowfall. The crystals barely exist a moment when they light on our equipment so that everything on and about the sledges is drying rapidly. When the sky was clear above the horizon we got a good view of the distant land all around to the west. White patches of mountains to the west southwest must be 120 miles distant. During the night we saw discovery and the royal society range the first view for many days but we have not seen arabus for a week and in that direction the cloud seemed ever to concentrate. It is very interesting to watch the weather phenomena of the barrier but one prefers the sunshine today such as this when everything is blankly white and a sense of oppression is inevitable. The temperature fell to minus 15 degrees last night with a clear sky. It rose to zero degrees directly the sky covered and is now just 16 to 20 degrees. Most of us are using goggles with glass of light green tint. We find this color very grateful to the eyes and as a rule it is possible to see everything through them even more clearly than with naked vision. The hard Cestruvi are now all from the west southwest and our cairns are drifted up by winds from that direction. Mostly though there has evidently been a range of snow-bearing winds round to south. This observation holds from corner camp to this camp showing that apparently all along the coast the wind comes from the land. The minimum thermometer left here shows minus 73 degrees rather less than expected. It has been excellently exposed and evidently not at all drifted up with snow at any time. I cannot find the oats I scattered here rather fear the drift has covered them but other evidences show that the snow deposit has been very small. Thursday November 16 camp 12. Resting. A stiff little southerly breeze all day dropping towards evening. The temperature minus 15 degrees. Pony's pretty comfortable in rugs and behind good walls. We have reorganized the loads taking on about 580 pounds with the stronger ponies. 400 odd with the others. Friday November 17 camp 13. Atkinson started about 8 30. We came on about 11 the whole of the remainder. The lunch camp was seven and a half miles. Atkinson left as we came in. He was an hour before us at the final camp 13 and a quarter geographical miles. On the whole and considering the weights the ponies did very well but the surface was comparatively good. Christopher showed signs of trouble at start but was coaxed into position for the traces to be hooked. There was some ice on his runner and he had a very heavy drag therefore a good deal done on arrival. Also his load seems heavier and deader than the others. It is early days to wonder whether the little beasts will last. One can only hope they will but the weakness of breeding and age is showing itself already. The crocs have done wonderfully so there is really no saying how long or well the fitter animals may go. We had a horribly cold wind on the march. Temperature minus 18 degrees forced three. The sun was shining but seemed to make little difference. It is still shining brightly temperature 11 degrees. Behind the pony walls it is wonderfully warm and the animals look as snug as possible. Saturday November 18 camp 14. The ponies are not pulling well. The surface is if anything a little worse than yesterday but I should think about the sort of thing we will have to expect hence forward. I had a panic that we were carrying too much food and this morning we have discussed the matter and decided we can leave a sack. We have done the usual 13 miles geographical with a few hundred yards to make the fifteen statute. The temperature was minus 21 degrees when we camped last night. Now it is minus three degrees. The crocs are going on very wonderfully. Oates gives China man at least three days and Wright says he may go for a week. This is slightly inspiring but how much better would it have been to have had ten really reliable beasts. It's touch and go whether we scrape up to the glacier. Meanwhile we get along somehow. At any rate the bright sunshine makes everything look more hopeful. Sunday November 19 camp 15. We have struck a real bad surface. Sledge is pulling well over it but ponies sinking very deep. The result is about to finish Jehu. He was terribly done on getting in tonight. He may go another march but not more I think. Considering the surface the other ponies did well. The ponies occasionally sink halfway to the hawk. Little Michael once or twice almost to the hawk itself. Luckily the weather now is glorious for resting the animals which are very placid and quiet in the brilliant sun. The Sestrugi are confused. The underlying hard patches appear as before to have been formed by a west southwest wind but there are some surface waves pointing to a recent southeasterly wind. Have been taking some photographs hours also. Monday November 20 camp 16. The surface a little better. Sestrugi becoming more and more definite from southeast. Struck a few hard patches which made me hopeful of much better things but these did not last long. The crocs still go. Jehu seems even a little better than yesterday and will certainly go another march. Chinaman reported bad the first half march but bucked up the second. The dogs found the surface heavy. Tomorrow I propose to relieve them of a forage bag. The sky was slightly overcast during the march with radiating cirrostratus south southwest to north northeast. Now very clear and bright again. Temperature at night minus fourteen degrees now four degrees. A very slight southerly breeze from which the walls protect the animals well. I feel sure that the long days rest in the sun is very good for all of them. Our ponies marched very subtly last night. They seem to take the soft crusts and difficult plotting surface more easily. The loss of condition is not so rapid as noticed to one-ton camp except perhaps in Victor who is getting to look very gaunt. Nabi seems fitter and stronger than when he started. He alone is ready to go all his feed at any time and as much more as he can get. The rest feel fairly well but they are getting a very big strong ration. I am beginning to feel more hopeful about them. Christopher bucked the bow of his sledge in towards the end of the march. He must have a lot left in him though. Tuesday November twenty one camp seventeen latitude eighty degrees thirty five minutes. The surface decidedly better and the ponies very steady on the march. None seem overtired and now it is impossible not to take a hopeful view of their prospect of pulling through. Temperature minus fourteen night. The only circumstance to be feared is a reversion to bad surfaces and that ought not to happen on this course. We marched to the usual lunch camp and saw a large cairn ahead. Two miles beyond we came on the motor party in latitude eighty degrees thirty two minutes. We learned that they had been waiting for six days. They all look very fit but declare themselves to be very hungry. This is interesting as showing conclusively that a ration amply sufficient for the needs of men leading ponies is quite insufficient for men doing hard pulling work. It therefore fully justifies the provision which we have made for the summit work. Even on that I have little doubt we shall soon get hungry. Day looks very thin almost gaunt but fit. The weather is beautiful. Long may it so continue. Temperature plus six degrees eleven a.m. It is decided to take on the motor party in advance for three days then day and hooper return. We hope Jehu will last three days. He will then be finished in any case and fed to the dogs. It is amusing to see mirrors looking eagerly for the chance of a feed for his animals. He has been expecting it daily. On the other hand Atkinson and Oates are eager to get the poor animal beyond the point at which Shackleton killed his first feast. Reports on Chinaman are very favorable and it looks as though the ponies are going to do what is hoped of them. Wednesday November 22 Camp 18. Everything much the same. The ponies thinner but not much weaker. The crocs still going along. Jehu is now called the barrier wonder in Chinaman the thunderbolt. Two days more and they will be well past the spot at which Shackleton killed his first animal. Navi keeps his preeminence of condition and has now the heaviest load by some 50 pounds. Most of the others are under 500 pounds load and I hope will be eased further yet. The dogs are in good form still and have come up well with their loads this morning night temperature minus 14 degrees. It looks as though we ought to get through to the glacier without great difficulty. The weather is glorious and the ponies can make the most of their rest during the warmest hours but they certainly lose in one way by marching at night. The surface is much easier for the sledges when the sun is warm and for about three hours before and after midnight the friction noticeably increases. It is just a question whether this extra weight on the loads is compensated by the resting temperature. We are quite steady on the march now and though not fast yet get through with few stops. The animals seem to be getting accustomed to the steady heavy plod and take the deep places less fussily. There is rather an increased condition of false crust that is a crust which appears firm till the whole weight of the animal is put upon it when it suddenly gives some three or four inches. This is very trying to the poor beasts. There are also more patches in which the men sink so that walking is getting more troublesome but speaking broadly the crusts are not comparatively bad and the surface is rather better than it was. If the hot sun continues this should still further improve. One cannot see any reason why the crust should change in the next 100 miles. Temperature plus two degrees. The land is visible along the western horizon in patches. Fours points out a continuous dark band. Is this the Dolorite Sill? Thursday November 23 Camp 19 getting along. I think the ponies will get through. We are now 150 geographical miles from the glacier but it is still rather touch and go. If one or more ponies were to go rapidly downhill we might be in queer street. The surface is much the same I think. Before lunch there seemed to be a marked improvement and after lunch the ponies marched much better so that one supposed a betterment of the friction. It is banking up to the south. Temperature plus nine degrees and I am afraid we may get a blizzard. I hope to goodness it is not going to stop when marching. Forage won't allow that. Friday November 24 Camp 20. There was a cold wind changing from south to southeast and overcast sky all day yesterday. A gloomy start to our march but the cloud rapidly lifted. Bands of clear sky broke through from east to west and the remnants of cloud dissipated. Now the sun is very bright and warm. We did the usual march very easily over a fairly good surface. The ponies now quite steady and regular. Since the junction with the motor party the procedure has been for the manhawling people to go forward just ahead of the crocs. The other party following two or three hours later. Today we closed less than usual so that the crocs must have been going very well. However the fiat had already gone forth and this morning after the march poor old Jehu was led back on the track and shot. After our doubts as to his reaching hut point it is wonderful to think that he has actually got eight marches beyond our last year limit and could have gone more. However towards the end he was pulling very little and on the whole it was merciful to have ended his life. China man seems to improve and will certainly last a good many days yet. The rest show no signs of flagging and are only moderately hungry. The surface is tiring for walking as one sinks two or three inches nearly all the time. I feel we ought to get through now. Day and Hooper leave us tonight. Saturday November 25 camp 21. The surface during the first march was very heavy owing to a liberal coating of ice crystals. It improved during the second march becoming quite good towards the end temperature minus two degrees. Now that it is pretty warm at night it is obviously desirable to work towards day marching. We shall start two hours later tonight and again tomorrow night. Last night we bade farewell to day and Hooper and set out with the new organization temperature minus eight degrees. All started together the man hollers, Evans, Blashley and Atkinson going ahead with their gear on the 10 foot sledge. China man and James Pig next and the rest some 10 minutes behind. We reached the lunch camp together and started there from in the same order the two crocs somewhat behind but not more than 300 yards at the finish so that all got into camp fairly satisfactorily together. The men said the first march was extremely heavy temperature minus two degrees. The sun has been shining all night but towards midnight light mist clouds arose half obscuring the leading parties. Land can be dimly discerned nearly ahead. Ponies are slowly tiring but we lighten loads again tomorrow by making another depot. Mears has just come up to report that Jehu made four feeds for the dogs. He cut up very well and had quite a lot of fat on him. Mears says another pony will carry him to the glacier. This is very good hearing. The men are pulling with ski sticks and say that they are a great assistance. I think of taking them up the glacier. Jehu has certainly come up trumps after all and China man bids fair to be even more valuable only a few more marches to feel safe in getting to our first goal. Sunday November 26 camp 22 lunch camp. March here fairly easily comparatively good surface started at 1am midnight local time. We now keep a steady pace of two miles an hour very good going. The sky was slightly overcast at start and between two and three it grew very misty. Before we camped we lost sight of the men hollers only 300 yards ahead. The sun is piercing the mist. Here in latitude 81 degrees 35 minutes we are leaving our middle barrier depot one week for each re-unit as at Mount Hooper. Camp 22. Snow began falling during the second march it is blowing from the west southwest force two to three with snow pattering on the tent a kind of summery blizzard that reminds one of April showers at home. The ponies come well on the second march and we shall start two hours later again tomorrow i.e. at 3 a.m. temperature plus 13 degrees. From this it will be a very short step to day routine when the time comes for man hauling. The Sestrugi seem to be gradually coming more to the south and a little more confused now and again they are crossed with hard westerly Sestrugi. The walking is tiring for the men one's feet sinking two or three inches at each step. China man and jimmy pig kept up splendidly with the other ponies it is always rather dismal work walking over the great snow plain when sky and surface merge in one pall of dead whiteness but it is cheering to be in such good company with everything going on steadily and well. The dogs came up as we camped. Mir says the best surface he has had yet. Monday November 27 camp 23 temperature plus 8 degrees 12 p.m. plus 2 degrees 3 a.m. plus 13 degrees 11 a.m. plus 17 degrees 3 p.m. quite the most trying march we have had the surface very poor at start the advance party got away in front but made heavy weather of it and we cut them up several times. This threw the ponies out of their regular work and prolonged the march. It grew overcast again although after a summery blizzard all yesterday there was promise of better things. Starting at 3 a.m. we did not get to lunch camp much before nine. The second march was even worse. The advance party started on ski the leading marks failed all together and they had the greatest difficulty in keeping a course. At the mid-care and building halt the snow suddenly came down heavily with a rise of temperature and the ski became hopelessly clogged. Bad farer as the Norwegians say. At this time the surface was unspeakably heavy for pulling but in a few minutes a south wind sprang up and a beneficial result was immediately felt. Pulling on foot the advance had even greater difficulty in going straight until the last half mile when the sky broke slightly. We got off our march but under the most harassing circumstances and with the animals very tired. It is snowing hard again now and heaven only knows when it will stop. If it were not for the surface and bad light things would not be so bad. There are few sustrugy and little deep snow. For the most part men and ponies sink to a hard crust some three or four inches beneath the soft upper snow. Tiring for the men but in itself more even and therefore less tiring for the animals. Mirs just came up and reporting very bad surface. We shall start one hour later tomorrow i.e. at 4 a.m. making five hours delay on the conditions of three days ago. Our forage supply necessitates that we should plug on the 13 geographical miles daily under all conditions so that we can only hope for better things. It is several days since we had a glimpse of land which makes conditions especially gloomy. A tired animal makes a tired man I find and none of us are very bright now after the day's march though we have had ample sleep of late. Tuesday November 28 Camp 24 the most dismal start imaginable thick as a hedge snow falling and drifting with keen southerly wind. The men pulled out at 3.15 with Chinaman and James Pig. We followed at 4.20 just catching the party at the lunch camp at 8.30. Things got better halfway. The sky showed signs of clearing and the steering improved. Now at lunch it is getting thick again. When will the wretched blizzard be over? The walking is better for ponies worse for men. There is nearly everywhere a hard crust some three to six inches down. Towards the end of the march we crossed a succession of high hard south easterly sustrugy widely dispersed. I don't know what to make of these. Second march almost as horrid as the first wind blowing strong from the south shifting to southeast as the snowstorms fell on us when we could see little or nothing and the driving snow hit us stingingly in the face. The general impression of all this dirty weather is that it spreads in from the southeast. We started at 4am and I think I shall stick to that custom for the present. These last four marches have been fought for but completed without hitch and though we camped in a snowstorm there is a more promising look in the sky and if only for a time the wind has dropped and the sun shines brightly dispelling some of the gloomy results of the distressing marching. China man the thunderbolt has been shot tonight. Plucky little chap he has stuck it out well and leaves the stage but a few days before his fellows. We have only four bags of forage each 130 pounds left but these should give seven marches with all the remaining animals and we are less than 90 miles from the glacier. Bowers tells me that the barometer was phenomenally low both during this blizzard and the last. This has certainly been the most unexpected and trying summer blizzard yet experienced in this region. I only trust it is over. There is not much to choose between the remaining ponies. Knobby and Bones are the strongest Victor and Christopher the weakest but all should get through. The land doesn't show up yet. Wednesday November 29 camp 25 latitude 82 degrees 21 minutes. Things much better. The land showed up late yesterday. Mount Markham a magnificent triple peak appearing wonderfully close. Cape Littleton and Cape Goldy. We did our march in good time leaving about 420 and getting into this camp at 115. About seven and a half hours on the march. I suppose our speed throughout averages two statute miles an hour. The land showed hazily on the march at times looking remarkably near. Sheedy white snowy stratus cloud hung about overhead during the first march but now the sky is clearing the sun very warm and bright. Land shows up almost ahead now. Our pony go less than 70 miles away. The ponies are tired but I believe all have five days work left in them and some a great deal more. China man made four feeds for the dogs and I suppose we can count every other pony as a similar asset. It follows that the dogs can be employed rested and fed well on the homeward track. We could really get through now with their help and without much delay yet every consideration makes it desirable to save the men from heavy hauling as long as possible. So I devoutly hope the 70 miles will come in the present order of things. Snippets and knobby now walk by themselves following in the tracks well. Both have a continually cunning eye on the driver ready to stop the moment he pauses. They eat snow every few minutes. It's a relief not having to lead an animal. Such trifles annoy one on these marches. The animals vagaries, his everlasting attempts to eat his head robe, etc. Yet all these animals are very full of character. Some day I must write of them and their individualities. The men haulers started one and a half hours before us and got there a good hour ahead traveling easily throughout such as the surface with the sun on it justifying my decision to work towards day marching. Evans has suggested the word bled for the quality of surface indicated. Surface is more comprehensive and includes the crusts and liability to sink in them. From this point of view the surface is distinctly bad. The ponies plow deep all the time and the men most of the time. The Sestrugi are rather more clearly southeast. This would be from winds sweeping along the coast. We have a recurrence of sinking crusts, areas which give way with a report. There has been little of this since we left one ton camp until yesterday and today when it is again very marked. Certainly the open barrier conditions are different from those near the coast. Altogether things look much better and everyone is in excellent spirits. Mears has been measuring the holes made by ponies hooves and finds an average of about eight inches since we left one ton camp. He finds many holes a foot deep. This gives good indication of the nature of the work. In Bauer's tent they had some of Chinaman's undercut in their hoosh yesterday and say it was excellent. Note from the glossary. Pooche. A thick camp soup with a basis of Pemmican. End of note. I am cooked for the present. Have been discussing pony snowshoes. I wish to goodness the animals would wear them. It would save them any amount of labor in such surfaces as this. End of second part of Chapter 16. Section 35 of Scott's Last Expedition Volume 1. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org. Scott's Last Expedition Volume 1. The Journals of Robert Falcon Scott. Arranged by Leonard Huxley. Third part of Chapter 16. Southern Journey The Barrier Stage. Thursday November 30. Camp 26. A very pleasant day for marching but a very tiring march for the poor animals which, with the exception of Navi, are showing signs of failure all round. We were slower by half an hour or more than yesterday. Except that the loads are light now and there are still eight animals left. Things don't look too pleasant but we should be less than 60 miles from our first point of aim. The surface was much worse today. The ponies sinking to their knees very often. There were a few harder patches towards the end of the march. In spite of the sun there was not much glide on the snow. The dogs are reported as doing very well. They are going to be a great standby no doubt. The land has been veiled in thin white mist. It appeared at intervals after we camped and I had taken a couple of photographs. Friday December 1. Camp 27. Latitude 82 degrees 47 minutes. The ponies are tiring pretty rapidly. It is a question of days with all except Navi. Yet they are outlasting this forage and tonight against some opinion I decided Christopher must go. He has been shot. Less regret goes with him than the others in remembrance of all the trouble he gave at the outset and the unsatisfactory way he has gone of late. Here we leave a depot. Footnote. The southern barrier depot. End of footnote. So that no extra weight is brought on the other ponies. In fact there is a slight diminution. Three more marches ought to bring us through. With the seven crocs and the dog teams we must get through I think. The men alone ought not to have heavy loads on the surface which is extremely trying. Navi was tried in snowshoes this morning and came along splendidly on them for about four miles then the wretched affairs racked and had to be taken off. There is no doubt that these snowshoes are the thing for ponies and had ours been able to use them from the beginning they would have been very different in appearance at this moment. I think the sight of land has helped the animals but not much. We started in bright warm sunshine and with the mountains wonderfully clear on our right hand but towards the end of the march clouds worked up from the east and a thin broken cumulostratus now overspreads the sky leaving the land still visible but dull. A fine glacier descends from Mount Longstaff. It has cut very deep and the wall standard an angle of at least 50 degrees. Otherwise although there are many CWMs on the lower ranges the mountains themselves seem little carved. They are rounded massive structures. A cliff of light yellow brown rock appears opposite us flanked with black or dark brown rock which also appears under the lighter color. One would be glad to know what nature of rock these represent. There is a good deal of exposed rock on the next range also. Saturday December 2 Camp 28 latitude 83 degrees started under very bad weather conditions the stratus spreading over from the southeast last night meant mischief and all day we marched in falling snow with a horrible light. The ponies went poorly on the first march when there was little or no wind and a high temperature. They were sinking deep on a wretched surface. I suggested to Oates that he should have a roving commission to watch the animals but he much preferred to lead one so I handed over snippets very willingly and went on ski myself. It was very easy work for me and I took several photographs of the ponies plunging along. The light very strong at three Watkins actinometer. The ponies did much better on the second march both surface and glide improved. I went ahead and found myself obliged to take a very steady pace to keep the lead so we arrived in camp in flourishing condition. Sad to have to order victor's end poor Bowers feels it. He is in excellent condition and will provide five feeds for the dogs. Temperature plus 17 degrees. We must kill now as the forage is so short but we have reached the 83rd parallel and are practically safe to get through. Tonight the sky is breaking and conditions generally more promising. It is dreadfully dismal work marching through the blank wall of white and we should have very great difficulty if we had not a party to go ahead and show the course. The dogs are doing splendidly and will take a heavier load from tomorrow. We kill another pony tomorrow night if we get our march off and shall then have nearly three days food for the other five. In fact everything looks well if the weather will only give us a chance to see our way to the glacier. Wild in his diary of Shackleton's journey remarks on December 15 that it was the first day for a month that he could not record splendid weather. With us a fine day has been the exception so far. However we have not lost a march yet. It was so warm when we camped that the snow melted as it fell and everything got sopping wet. Oats came into my tent yesterday exchanging with Cherry Garard. The lists now. Self, Wilson, Oats, and Cahohane. Bowers, P.O. Evans, Cherry, and Crean. Manhollers, E.R. Evans, Atkinson, Wright, and Lashley. We have all taken to horse-meat and are so well fed that hunger isn't thought of. Sunday, December 3, Camp 29. Our luck in weather is preposterous. I roused the hands at 2.30 a.m. intending to get away at five. It was thick and snowy yet we could have got on. But at breakfast the wind increased and by 4.30 it was blowing a full gale from the south. The pony while blew down, huge drifts collected, and the sledges were quickly buried. It was the strongest wind I have known here in summer. At 11 it began to take off. At 12.30 we got up and had lunch and got ready to start. The land appeared, the clouds broke, and by 1.30 we were in bright sunshine. We were off at 2 p.m., the land showing all round. And, but for some cloud to the southeast, everything promising. At 2.15 I saw the southeasterly cloud spreading up. It blotted out the land 30 miles away at 2.30 and was on us before 3. The sun went out, snow fell thickly, and marching conditions became horrible. The wind increased from the southeast, changed to southwest, where it hung for a time, and suddenly shifted to west-northwest and then north-northwest, from which direction it is now blowing with falling and drifting snow. The changes of conditions are inconceivably rapid, perfectly bewildering. In spite of all these difficulties, we have managed to get 11.5 miles south and to this camp at 7 p.m., the conditions of marching simply horrible. The man-haulers let out six miles geographical and then camped. I think they had had enough of leading. We passed them, bowers an eye ahead on ski. We steered with compass, the drifting snow across our ski, and occasional glimpse of southeasterly Sestrugi under them, till the sun showed dimly for the last hour or so. The whole weather conditions seemed thoroughly disturbed, and if they continue so when we are on the glacier, we shall be very awkwardly placed. It is really time the luck turned in our favor. We have had all too little of it. Every mile seems to have been hardly one under such conditions. The ponies did splendidly, and the forage is lasting a little better than expected. Victor was found to have quite a lot of bad on him, and the others are pretty certain to have more, so that we should have no difficulty whatever as regards transport, if only the weather was kind. Monday, December 4, Camp 29, 9 a.m. I roused the party at 6. During the night the wind had changed from north-northwest to south-south-east. It was not strong, but the sun was obscured and the sky looked heavy. Hatches of land could be faintly seen, and we thought that at any rate we could go on. But during breakfast the wind suddenly increased in force, and afterwards a glance outside was sufficient to show a regular white flowery blizzard. We have all been out building fresh walls for the ponies, an un-inviting task, but one which greatly adds to the comfort of the animals, who look sleepy and bored, but not at all cold. The dogs came up with us as we camped last night, and the man-haulers arrived this morning as we finished the pony-wall. So we are all together again. The latter had great difficulty in following our tracks, and say they could not have steered a course without them. It is utterly impossible to push ahead in this weather, and one is at a complete loss to account for it. The barometer rose from 29.4 to 29.9 last night, a phenomenal rise. Evidently there is very great disturbance of atmospheric conditions. Well, one must stick it out, that is all, and hope for better things, but it makes me feel a little bitter to contrast such weather with that experienced by our predecessors. Camp 30. The wind fell in the forenoon, at 12.30 the sky began to clear, by one the sun shone, by 2 p.m. we were away, and by 8 p.m. camped here with 13 miles to the good. The land was quite clear throughout the march, and the features easily recognized. There are several uncharted glaciers of large dimensions, a confluence of three under Mount Reed. The mountains are rounded in outline, very massive, with small, excrescent peaks and undeveloped CWMs, temperature plus 18 degrees. The CWMs are very fine in the lower foothills, and the glaciers have carved deep channels between walls at very high angles. One or two peaks on the foothills stand bare and almost perpendicular, probably granite. We should know later. Ahead of us is the ice-rounded boulder-strewn Mount Hope, and the gateway to the glacier. We should reach it easily enough on tomorrow's march, if we can compass 12 miles. The ponies marched splendidly today, crossing the deep snow in the undulations without difficulty. They must be in very much better condition than Shackleton's animals, and indeed there isn't a doubt they would go many miles yet if food allowed.  All the tents are consuming pony flesh and thoroughly enjoying it. We have only lost five or six miles on these two wretched days, but the disturbed condition of the weather makes me anxious with regard to the glacier, where more than anywhere we shall need fine days. One has a horrid feeling that this is a real bad season. However, sufficient for the day is the evil thereof. We are practically through with the first stage of our journey. Looking from the last camp towards the south-south east, where the farthest land can be seen, it seemed more than probable that a very high latitude could be reached on the barrier, and if Amundsen journeying that way has a stroke of luck, he may well find his summit journey reduced to one hundred miles or so. In any case, it is a fascinating direction for next year's work if only fresh transport arrives. The dips between undulations seem to be about twelve to fifteen feet. Tonight we get puffs of wind from the gateway, which for the moment looks uninviting. Four Days Delay Tuesday, December 5, Camp 30, noon. We awoke this morning to a raging howling blizzard. The blows we have had hitherto have lacked the very fine powdery snow, that a special feature of the blizzard. Today we have it fully developed. After a minute or two in the open, one is covered from head to foot. The temperature is high so that what falls or drives against one sticks. The ponies, head, tails, legs, and all parts not protected by their rugs, are covered with ice. The animals are standing deep in snow, the sledges are almost covered, and huge drifts above the tents. We have had breakfast, rebuilt the walls, and are now again in our bags. One cannot see the next tent, let alone the land. What on earth does such weather mean at this time of year? It is more than our share of ill fortune, I think, but the luck may turn yet. I doubt if any party could travel in such weather, even with the wind, certainly no one could travel against it. Is there some widespread atmospheric disturbance, which will be felt everywhere in this region as a bad season, or are we merely the victims of exceptional local conditions? If the latter, there is food for thought in picturing our small party, struggling against adversity in one place, whilst others go smilingly forward in the sunshine, how great may be the element of luck. No foresight, no procedure, could have prepared us for this state of affairs. Had we been ten times as experienced or certain of our aim, we should not have expected such rebuffs. 11 p.m. It has blown hard all day with quite the greatest snowfall I remember. The drifts above the tents are simply huge. The temperature was plus 27 degrees this afternoon, and rose to plus 31 in the afternoon, at which time the snow melted as it fell on anything but the snow. And as a consequence, there are pools of water on everything, the tents are wet through, also the wind closed, night boots, etc. Water drips from the tent poles and door, lies on the floor cloth, soaks the sleeping bags, and makes everything pretty wretched. If a cold snap follows before we have had time to dry our things, we shall be mighty uncomfortable. Yet after all it would be humorous enough if it were not for the seriousness of delay. We can't afford that, and it's real hard luck that it should come at such a time. The wind shows signs of easing down, but the temperature does not fall, and the snow is as wet as ever, not promising signs of abatement. The snow is all melting and everything's afloat. If this goes on much longer, we shall have to turn the tent upside down and use it as a boat. Wednesday, December 6, Camp 30, noon. Miserable, utterly miserable. We have camped in the slew of Despond. The tempest rages with unabated violence. The temperature has gone to 33 degrees, everything in the tent is soaking. People returning from the outside look exactly as though they had been in a heavy shower of rain. They drip pools on the floor cloth. The snow is steadily climbing higher about walls, ponies, tents, and sledges. The ponies look utterly desolate. Oh, but this is too crushing, and we are only 12 miles from the glacier. A hopeless feeling descends on one, and it is hard to fight off. What immense patience is needed for such occasions. 11 p.m. At 5 there came signs of a break at last, and now one can see the land, but the sky is still overcast and there is a lot of snow about. The wind also remains fairly strong and the temperature high. It is not pleasant, but if no worse in the morning we can get on at last, we are very, very wet. 11 p.m. Thursday, December 7, Camp 30. The storm continues and the situation is now serious. One small feed remains for the ponies after today, so that we must either march tomorrow or sacrifice the animals. That is not the worst. With the help of the dogs we could get on without doubt. The serious part is that we have this morning started our summer rations. That is to say, the food calculated from the glacier depot has been begun. The first supporting party can only go on a fortnight from this date and so forth. The storm shows no sign of abatement, and its character is as unpleasant as ever. The promise of last night died away about 3 a.m., when the temperature and wind rose again, and things reverted to the old conditions. I can find no sign of an end, and all of us agreed that it is utterly impossible to move. Resignation to misfortune is the only attitude, but not an easy one to adopt. It seems undeserved, where plans were well laid, and so nearly crowned with a first success. I cannot see that any plan would be altered if it were to do again. The margin for bad weather was ample according to all experience, and this stormy December, our finest month, is a thing that the most cautious organizer might not have been prepared to encounter. It is very evil to lie here in a wet sleeping bag and think of the pity of it, whilst with no break in the overcast sky things go steadily from bad to worse. Temperature 32 degrees. Mears has a bad attack of snow blindness in one eye. I hope this rest will help him, but he says it has been painful for a long time. There cannot be good cheer in the camp in such weather, but it is ready to break out again. In the brief spell of hope last night, one heard laughter. Midnight, little or no improvement. The barometer is rising, perhaps there is hope in that. Surely few situations could be more exasperating than this of forced inactivity, when every day and indeed one hour counts. To be here watching the mottled wet green walls of our tent, the glistening wet bamboos, the bedraggled sopping socks, and loose articles dangling in the middle, the saddened countenances of my companions, to hear the everlasting patter of the falling snow and the ceaseless rattle of the fluttering canvas, to feel the wet clinging dampness of clothes and everything touched, and to know that without there is but a blank wall of white on every side. These are the physical surroundings. Add the stress of a sighted failure of our whole plan, and everyone must find the circumstances unenviable. But yet, after all, one can go on striving, endeavoring to find a stimulation in the difficulties that arise. Friday, December 8, Camp 30, hoped against hope for better conditions, to wake to the mournfulest snow and wind as usual. We had breakfast at ten, and at noon the wind dropped. We set about digging out the sledges, no light task. We then shifted our tent sites. All tents have been reduced to the smallest volume by the gradual pressure of snow. The old sites are deep pits with hollowed-in wet centers. The resetting of the tent has at least given us comfort, especially since the wind has dropped. About four the sky showed signs of breaking, the sun and a few patches of land could be dimly discerned. The wind shifted in light airs, and a little hope revived. Alas, as I write, the sun has disappeared, and the snow is again falling. Our case is growing desperate.  They managed to move a sledge with four people on it, pulling in ski. Pulling on foot, they sank to the knees. The snow all about us is terribly deep. We tried Nabi, and he plunged to his belly in it. Wilson thinks the pony's finished, but Oates thinks they will get another march in spite of the surface if it comes tomorrow. If it should not, we must kill the pony's tomorrow and get on as best we can with the men on ski and the dogs. Footnote from Dr. Wilson's Journal December 8th I have left Nabi all my biscuits tonight as he is to try and do a march tomorrow, and then happily he will be shot and all of them as their food is quite done. December 9th Nabi had all my biscuits last night and this morning, and by the time we camped I was just ravenously hungry. It was a close cloudy day with no air, and we were plowing along knee deep. Thank God the horses are now all done with, and we begin the heavy work ourselves. End of footnote But one wonders what the dogs can do on such a surface. I much fear they will also prove inadequate. Oh, for fine weather, if only to the glacier. The temperature remains 33 degrees, and everything is disgustingly wet. 11 p.m. The wind has gone to the north, the sky is really breaking at last, the sun showing less sparingly, and the land appearing out of the haze. The temperature has fallen to 26 degrees, and the water nuisance is already baiting. With so fair a promise of improvement, it would be too cruel to have to face bad weather tomorrow. There is good cheer in the camp tonight, in the prospect of action. The poor ponies look wistfully for the food of which so very little remains, yet they are not hungry, as recent savings have resulted from food left in their nose bags. They look wonderfully fit, all things considered. Everything looks more hopeful tonight, but nothing can recall four lost days. Saturday, December 9, Camp 31. I turned out two or three times in the night to find the weather slowly improving. At 5.30 we all got up, and at 8.00 got away with the ponies, a most painful day. The tremendous snowfall of the late storm had made the surface intolerably soft, and after the first hour there was no glide. We pressed on the poor half rationed animals, but could get none to lead for more than a few minutes. Following the animals would do fairly well. It looked as we could never make headway. The man hollers were pressed into the service to aid matters. Fours and cherry garard went ahead with one tenth-foot sledge, thus most painfully we made about a mile. The situation was saved by P. O. Evans, who put the last pair of snowshoes on Snatcher. From this he went on without much pressing. The other ponies followed, and one by one were worn out in the second place. We went on all day without lunch. Three or four miles, temperature 23 degrees, found us engulfed in pressures, but free from difficulty except the awful softness of the snow. By 8.00 p.m. we had reached within a mile or so of the slope ascending to the gap, which Shackleton called the gateway. Footnote December 9. The end of the Beardmore Glacier curved across the track of the Southern Party, thrusting itself into the mass of the barrier with vast pressure and disturbance. So far did this ice disturbance extend, that if the travelers had taken a beeline to the foot of the glacier itself, they must have begun to steer outwards 200 miles sooner. The gateway was a neck or saddle of drifted snow lying in a gap in the mountain rampart, which flanked the last curve of the glacier. Under the cliffs on either hand, like a moat beneath the ramparts, lay a yawning ice cleft, or Berkshrund, formed by the drying away of the steadily moving barrier ice from the rocks. Across this moat and leading up to the gap in the ramparts, the gateway provided a solid causeway. To climb this and descend its reverse face gave the easiest access to the surface of the glacier. End of footnote. I had hoped to be through the gateway with the ponies still in hand at a very much earlier date, and, for the devastating storm, we should have been. It has been a most serious blow to us, but things are not yet desperate if only the storm has not hopelessly spoiled the surface. The man-haulers are not up yet, in spite of their light load. I think they have stopped for tea or something, but under ordinary conditions they would have passed us with ease. At 8 p.m. the ponies were quite done, one in all. They came on painfully slowly a few hundred yards at a time. By this time I was hauling ahead a ridiculously light load, and yet finding the pulling heavy enough. We camped, and the ponies have been shot. Footnote. Camp 31 received the name of Shambles Camp. End of footnote. Poor beasts. They have done wonderfully well considering the terrible circumstances under which they worked, but yet it is hard to have to kill them so early. The dogs are going well in spite of the surface, but here again one cannot get the help one would wish. Temperature. 19 degrees. I cannot load the animals heavily on such snow. The scenery is most impressive. Three huge pillars of granite form the right buttress of the gateway, and a sharp spur of Mount Hope the left. The land is much more snow-covered than when we saw it before the storm. In spite of some doubt in our outlook, everyone is very cheerful tonight and jokes are flying freely around. End of Chapter 16