Section 52 of Letters from Victorian Pioneers. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Letters from Victorian Pioneers. Letter 52 from S. G. Henty, Portland. Portland, 16th January, 1854. My dear sir, I have allowed your circular of the 27th July last to remain much longer unanswered than I intended, but concluding that the information you required at my hands would be insufficient time if it reached you at any time previous to your departure, I have put it off from time to time. I am afraid at the expense of taxing your good opinion of me. I fear you will not consider the very short narrative here was forwarded so full as you expected at my hands. I am, however, such a very indifferent hand at description that I trust you will find what I have written answer your purpose. Accompanying my narrative, I beg to hand to you a copy of a statement prepared by my brother William when laying our claims for compensation before the home government. I do not see that it will interest you, but it bears out my account of the early settlement of this part of the colony. The difficulties and trials of early settling are, perhaps, better known to myself and to other members of our family than to any other individual in the colony. I have not touched upon any description of the country either at Mount Garmier or Vannan and Glenale simply because from your knowledge of these parts you are so much more able to do so than myself. I cannot, however, ever forget the pleasant rides that I have had the honour of accompanying you on on several occasions over a great deal of the above-named country and I trust I may live to have an opportunity of doing so again in some other part of the world as it is my intention, if spared, to visit the old country next year and I am now making my arrangements accordingly. As another magistrate will be required here and a friend of my own, Mr. Learmonth of Ettrick, near Portland, is about to join me in carrying on my business here, I hope you will not consider that I am taking too great a liberty in asking you to put him in the commission of the peace as, having been some years a magistrate in one demon's land, he is in every way qualified for such an appointment. And again, in begging your kind reconsideration of Dr. Hallad's case, for I really consider him very harshly used by the two individuals who sat with me at the hearing of his case, both of whom had prejudged the case before it came on for hearing. But for my illness my report would have been decidedly in his favour, for the only point on which any evidence was given directly rebuted the charge made by Mr. Malpas that Dr. Hallad returned his own servant as government officekeeper. There was no evidence whatever to bear out any other charge, but there is evidence now to prove that Mr. Blair wished the man to bear out Mr. Malpas' statement. But for the death of the unfortunate lady the case would have been brought forward again. I am sorry to trouble you upon such a subject at a time when I am sure you must be very much worried, but I feel it my duty to state to you my opinion in this case. Mrs. Henty unites with me in very kind remembrances to you, and may I beg you will convey the same to Mrs. Latrobe, whom I trust you will soon meet in perfect health. With every good wish for such a speedy consummation and your future welfare and happiness here and hereafter believe me to remain your sincere friend and admirer, S. G. Henty. 2. His Excellency, C. J. Latrobe, a squire, etc. 1833. The Henty family residing in Lonseston, one demon's land, being interested in a whaling company whose operations were carried on along the coast from Portland Bay to Port Ferry. Edward Henty, accompanied by my father, visited Portland Bay during this year, and finding the country well-grossed and apparently very well adapted for grazing purposes, it was determined by the family, upon their return to Lonseston, to send over stock and other necessaries for an establishment at Portland Bay forthwith. And accordingly Edward Henty accompanied it as manager, and after a most boisterous passage of four weeks, during which several of the stock died, he reached Portland Bay, 1834, and fixed his habitation on what is now block number four in the township of Portland, and now occupied by me. My father at this time applied to the home government for permission to exchange some portion of our large grant of land at Small River for a smaller portion here, which have ever was refused. But what we considered a tested permission was given for us to occupy and to claim such lands as we might improve by fencing or cultivation. Our subsequent operations bear out that we depended upon this concession. The sequel, however, shows that we were mistaken. 1834. In December of this year, my brother Frank joined the party at Portland, bringing over more stock and servants. 1835. Early in the following year it was necessary for F. Henty to return to one demon's land. On his return to Portland in October of this year, the small sloop in which he was a passenger called on her way at indented head, where they found Batman's party waiting an opportunity to get further up the Bay of Port Phillip. He took advantage of this opportunity and proceeded with the party up the Yara Yara. When the party camped for the first time on the present town side of Melbourne. After remaining there for a fortnight he proceeded on his voyage and reached Portland again in November 1835. At this time the writer was residing at Small River to which colony he had emigrated from England as one of the pioneers of that colony at its earliest settlement in October 1829. Learning from my brothers at Portland that they had taken up their location there and being urged by them to join them, I at once determined on doing so and in order to effect this I purchased a vessel of 60 tons called the Sully Anne and embarked with my wife and servants and reached Portland in June 1836. The vessel was afterwards employed as a tender upon the party running regularly between Portland and Lausiston. At this time we were entirely dependent upon ourselves both for supplies from one demon's land and for protection against the natives and the many runaway prisoners who were at large at and around the whaling establishment. 1836. It was in August of this year that a portion of Major Mitchell's party headed by himself visited our establishment. When to his astonishment he found our party comfortably settled having as he expressed himself the only glass windows to our house that he had seen since he left the boundary of New South Wales. Not being aware of any settlement at this place he supposed that we were a party of bush rangers or runaways from one demon's land and in approaching us he took the precaution to have his men ranged in order with their arms ready for action. This led us to suppose that his party was what he supposed ours to be and we were consequently as cautious before holding any intercourse with him. From Major Mitchell we learned that the country about 50 miles north was much more suitable for grazing purposes than where our stock was located and as our sheep had accumulated to several thousands it was considered advisable to push into the interior. To enable us to do this we cut a trackway through the forest to mount Eckersley and there took up stations until we could get further inland. 1837. It was not until the 3rd of August in this year that we succeeded in driving our first vlog on to the Marino Down station a day that will be memorable in the recollection of the family of the writer as the natal day of his first born son Richmond. The remainder of our stock was sent up as fast as possible with which we occupied the stations known as Muntham, Cornel's Run and Sandford. At this time we had very great difficulty in retaining the services of any men owing to the hostile disposition of the natives to which many of our men's lives were sacrificed. 1838. In this year Mr. Samuel Winter came over from One Demon's Land and shortly afterwards took up a station called Tahara adjoining our Marino Down's Run. Shortly afterwards Mr. John Bryan came over and when it became known in One Demon's Land that we had opened up a road into the interior many other gentlemen followed in our example. 1840. Among others in 1840 were Messier's Pellew and Jones, McCulloch, Purbrick, Savage, A. G. Robertson, Coldham, McPherson, Richie and many others until all the country immediately around us was taken possession of. It was in October of this year that the first land sale took place and which deprived us of some of that land upon which we had made improvements at so much expense to ourselves, some of it realizing at the rate of 1,600 pounds an acre. The South Australian government held out very great inducements for the selection of special surveys. This induced me to take a journey across the boundary of this colony in search of some suitable spot on the coast within the colony of South Australia and for this purpose I prepared a party of two men and myself and took my departure from Marino Down's in June 1839 steering a direct course by compass for Mount Gambier which I reached on the second day. To those who have not seen Mount Gambier it may seem strange when I say that I ascended it by a very gentle slope on the northeast side and was scarcely aware of my exact position until I reached the brink of the enormous eastern lake a site which I never can forget quite beyond my power of description. At this time I was not certain whether this beautiful country belonged to the South Australian colony or I should at once have applied for a special survey in that locality for at this time I believe no European had ever seen the country but my own party. Under this doubt I determined to push further on and examine the coastline as far as Cape Jaffa and therefore extended my search for 28 days without success and returned along the coast to Portland. We afterwards formed cattle stations at Mount Gambier of which were subsequently deprived by the chicanery of some unprincipled individuals in search of ship stations. This part of the country is now thickly settled. The export in wool alone from the port of Portland this season will reach to about 12,000 bales or in many value nearly 300,000 pounds and traffic consequent upon this is now very great. Port Ferry was, like Portland but subsequently, settled first by the formation of a whaling party and afterwards stock was introduced from one demon's land by Messiers Connolly and Griffith but owing to the very great expense attending it both these gentlemen were ruined. The trade to Portland from Great Britain is very considerable no less than 8 large vessels having arrived direct within the last 12 months fully laden with cargo one of them the Aberdeen Clipper Francis Henty belonging to the writer besides some immigrant ships ranging from 1,350 tons down to 650 tons. S. G. Henty, Portland, January the 14th, 1854 End of Section 52 Section 53 of Letters from Victorian Pioneers This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Letters from Victorian Pioneers Letter 53 from C. J. Latrobe, Melbourne Victoria, number 17 Executive, Melbourne, January 22nd, 1853 Sir, in the case of the decease of the great majority of officers employed by Her Majesty's government in these colonies usage at least would confine the official notification to a simple record of the fact and of the arrangements which such occurrence might entail. Two, there are circumstances however connected with the career of Mr. Henry Poultony Dana whose premature death occurred in November last which may fully justify a more particular remark. His name, as commandant of native police in this colony will have often been brought during the past 12 years under the notice of Her Majesty's government. Three, the raising of a police force from amongst the Aboriginal tribes which were found in occupation of the country upon the arrival of the first settlers was a project of very early contemplation after the new settlement was formally recognized and taken in charge by government in 1836. In fact, in obedience to special instructions preparatory steps were taken to this end by the officer in charge of the new settlement as early as 1837. The objects were twofold, the civilization of the younger natives and the creation of a force which would be seemingly better adapted in the then existing circumstances of the colony than any other to check, if not to prevent the aggressions of the tribes upon the lives and property of the scattered European population. Five, upon the appointment of the protectors of Aborigines in 1838 the carrying out of the scheme was somewhat injudiciously for one reason or another given into their hands was pronounced a failure and shortly after fell to the ground. However, after an interval as the community grew and became dispersed over a larger extent of country and collisions between the settlers and the Aborigines became unavoidably more serious and fatal and the absolute necessity of securing some such cooperation on the part of the natives became more and more evident and forced itself upon the attention of the local government. Six, many obstacles stood in the way the most difficult of removal arose from the peculiarly unsettled habits of the race, the power which the older natives have over the young and the steady opposition which they interposed to the scheme. However, in 1841 circumstances encouraged me to make the trial and Mr. Henry P. Dana was on his own urgent and repeated application with but very moderate encouragement in many respects authorized to undertake the task. Seven, the result is known and need not be here detailed at length. A core of native police was gradually embodied, disciplined and maintained under his sole management which was acknowledged on all hands to have fully answered the main purposes for which it was organized and to have rendered the most important service to the colony in the position in which it was then placed. It had once formed a link between the native and the European and gave many opportunities for the establishment of friendly relations. The marked success which in numerous instances followed its employment gave confidence to the settler, removed the pretexts under which he would feel justified in taking redress into his own hands and left no excuse for the vindictive reprisals which have been a blot upon the early years of the settlement. The native on his side soon saw that in yielding to his natural aggressive impulses he would be opposed to those who were not only his equals in savage cunning and endowment but his superiors by alliance with the Europeans. Eight, such was the general result of the experiment till within two years of the present time when with the cessation of the urgent necessity which had called it into existence the native police was seen to be evidently on the decline. It had in a great measure attained the objects of its organization and had outlived its time. Almost the entire number of the original members had died from accident or disease. The natural decay in numbers of the tribes in the colony and their change of habits and character particularly among the young and many other causes rendered the possibility of its further continuance by any exertion very questionable and although provision for the funds requisite for its maintenance as a distinct branch of the police force was made by the appropriation act of the past year it was soon seen that the gold discovery had its influence upon this service also and that the native police was in fact becoming extinct. Nine, though I am anxious that the memory of the existence and services of this core which furnished the only example of success among the many schemes set on foot to raise the aboriginal native in this quarter of New Holland above its natural level should not be lost I am glad to seize the opportunity of making this record yet my principal object is to do justice to the officer who from first to last was the mainspring of the whole. I have no hesitation in saying that the entire credit of the measure is due to Mr. Dana for no one who did not bring to the work his tact, energy, firmness and moral and physical powers of endurance could have succeeded. The service was the most peculiar one in every point of view failing much self-denial and many sacrifices but it suited his natural temper and talents and even ministered to his foibles. He may have had his failings but that he spent himself freely in the service with singleness of purpose and that the hardships and the exposure which it inevitably entailed undermined his constitution and brought him to a premature grave there can be no question. Ten, had Mr. Dana lived there can be no doubt that his claims, whenever incapacitated for active duties to favourable consideration after services of so peculiar and important a character to the colony would have been most readily conceded and I think his untimely death should not debar his family from such consideration as it may be in the power of Her Majesty's government to show. The case, viewed in relation to the aboriginal inhabitants of the colony now rapidly disappearing from its surface, if in no other is one which stands on its own ground and cannot be drawn into an inconvenient precedent. Eleven Mr. Dana leaves a widow and four children of very tender years and I am heartily supported by the recommendation of my Executive Council in praying that Her Majesty's government would concede that a gratuity at the rate of two hundred pounds for each year's service should be awarded to the children and placed in the hands of the gentlemen named under his will to act as trustees and executors. Such gratuity to be held chargeable against that portion of the unappropriated moiety of the land fund which is set apart for the Aborigines a far larger proportion it may be remarked than can ever now be so employed. I have, etc. C. J. La Trobe The Right Honorable Sir J. Packington Bart End of Section 53 Section 54 of Letters from Victorian Pioneers This is a LibriVox recording All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Letters from Victorian Pioneers Letter 54 Letter from Hugh Jameson Esquire to the right reverend the Lord Bishop of Melbourne on the Aboriginal natives of Australia Madura Station River Murray 10th October 1853 My Lord In compliance with Your Lordship's request I do myself the honour to furnish a few practical remarks upon the present and probable future condition of the Aboriginal natives of Australia more particularly of the tribes inhabiting the districts of Murray and Darling These remarks are the result of my own observations and are expressive of opinions and convictions which have been matured by the experience of a residence in Victoria since the early days of its establishment The almost universal opinion of the world seems to assign to the Aboriginal natives of Australia the very lowest place in the scale of civilisation and of intellect In this opinion I cannot agree 2. The past experience of upwards of 60 years has abundantly shown that the Aboriginal natives of Australia are even in the most uncultivated state of their faculties possessed of a considerable amount of intelligence observation, quickness of apprehension and aptitude for instruction in both reading and writing but notwithstanding all these natural advantages and which they have been found in all parts of the colony to possess I think it indisputably proved that there is a very clearly defined limit to their civilisation, amelioration of condition and permanent improvement either morally or physically 3. Those who have gained experience in managing them on a proper system have found them capable of being civilised to a certain extent and in many cases made useful in a short time without much trouble How far they are capable of being brought to a higher and more permanent degree of civilisation may very properly be considered worthy of enquiry I fear the question may already be considered determined. 4. On this station they have always been managed upon a uniform and rational system. They have ever been both to my brother and myself objects of interest. We have for many years endeavored to show them the advantages of permanent improvement and the general amelioration of their condition. We have exclusively employed them and successfully for some years in shepherding and in the usual routine of the management of sheep on a station, in sheep washing and also in sheep shearing to a limited extent. Their services have during the recent scarcity of labour consequent on the gold discoveries of Australia been to us and other settlers on the Murray and Darling of great value. The proper principle of managing them is founded on consistency kindness, firmness and decision. Following out this plan we continue to secure their services for shepherding and some other descriptions of work. The prospect however of a continuance of their services I consider doubtful. I think it probable we shall resume in part the employment of European shepherds as soon as the state of the supply of labour will allow. Every years experience clearly shows that there is a certain limit to their usefulness and general improvement. I use the word limit advisedly as I much regret to say I feel quite satisfied at the correctness of my opinion. Beyond this limit we seem to have no encouragement to look for or to expect any advance. Our object and name here is, at all times, to prevent a retrograde movement amongst those who have reached a certain state of usefulness and improvement. Very great difficulty is experienced in keeping them up to this given point despite of every encouragement that can be offered. It unfortunately appears that we cannot impart to them a disposition for permanently improving their condition. They have now no more wish than formally to adopt even the first elements of civilization and abandon their unsettled and roving life. In these districts during the summer months, nearly all, from the oldest to the youngest of the various tribes, have the greatest desire to abandon every employment and indulge in the roving life of naked savages. The tribes on the Lower Murray and Darling are, generally speaking, on friendly terms. They not unfrequently during their annual migrations travel over 200 or 300 miles of country increasing in numbers as they proceed alternately hunting, fishing and levion contributions on both sheep and cattle as they slowly and indolently saunter along the banks of the Murray and Darling. Such is the limited degree of civilization which even the best of our blacks have reached that during these migrations we always experience considerable difficulty in maintaining out of the whole tribe the necessary number for shepherding alone. All the present and future advantages offered fail to compensate the savage for the disappointment of not being able to join in these wild and roving excursions of the tribes. 5. Hopes were, for many years, entertained that some of the younger blacks might be permanently reclaimed and easily civilized when separated from the older ones. I think the experiment may be looked upon as having been fairly and fully tried. The result, in nearly all cases, has been most discouraging. 6. As regards their religious opinions, they have none. They have no knowledge whatever of a supreme being and their only idea of a future state of existence consist in some vague notion that after death they may be changed into whites. I do not at all consider this idea an original one. They have great superstitious dread of an evil spirit. All their ideas, however, are extremely vague 7. Death is at all times by them attributed to human agency. When any black, whether old or young, dies, an enemy is supposed during the night to have made an incision in his side and removed his kidney fat. Even the most intelligent natives cannot be convinced that any death proceeds from natural causes. 8. With regard to the numbers in the tribes of the Murray and Darling, it is an extremely difficult matter to form an approximate estimate. They are not nearly so numerous as has been generally supposed. I do not imagine that the numbers occupying the country on both sides of the Murray from Swan Hill to the south Australian boundary and the Darling from its junction with the Murray to Fort Bourke, 500 miles up the Darling, taken together would amount to more than 1500. During the past 5 or 6 years the decrease in their numbers has been very marked. The increase extremely small and bearing no proportion to the decrease evidently showing that they are dying off whilst there are few indeed to replace them. 7. Infanticide prevails to a great extent. I can obtain no satisfactory reason why it does so. They are, in general, fallen to their children and invariably appreciate any kindness that may be shown to them. Some years ago the offspring only of white men and aboriginal women were destroyed. Of late, Infanticide has, however, become so general that even in these remote tribes another number of the children is destroyed immediately after their birth. The supply of food of various sorts is here by no means precarious. During many months of the year the waters of the Murray and Darling furnish an immense supply of fish. At other seasons of the year edible roots in great variety are plentiful, even in the interior and more northern parts of the Darling. The occupation of the country by the stock of the settlers produces no apprehensions amongst any of the tribes of a deficiency in their children. 10. They chiefly die here either of pulmonary and rheumatic complaints or of a cutaneous disease of a very loathsome description. Their physical sufferings during their many long and lingering illnesses are very great. I am not aware of any having as yet died from the evil effects of intercourse with Europeans. The debasing influence of spirits has, fortunately, not as yet extended to the lower Murray and produced the baleful effects which may be seen in the miserable of the race near Melbourne. In cases of sickness much kindness and watchful attention is shown to male relatives. I have never seen a case in which they were neglected. When seriously unwell they frequently express a wish to be removed from one place to another. The wish is complied with at all times and they are removed either by means of a canoe or by a rude litter made for the occasion. In the case of sickness or death of a female the attention paid is comparably slight. When death occurs the lamentation and wailings are kept up during the night for some time. No illusion is ever afterwards made to the deceased and from the oldest to the youngest of the tribe all betray a decided aversion ever to speak of the deceased or to mention his or her name. They also have a superstitious dread of hearing the name mentioned even by a European. The matter of disposing of the dead varies throughout the colony.  11. Of the fact that they are cannibals we have many conclusive proofs. It is, however, only under very extraordinary circumstances that I have ever heard of any of the tribe feasting on human flesh. In general they very carefully extract and eat only the kidney fat of their victim. On other occasions in accordance with superstitious right they carry about with them the legs arms and pieces of the skin of their victim not for the purpose of eating these but with the view of distribution as charms for fishing operations. 12. Although they do not live in any regularly formed society and there are many tribes even without a chief still their marriages are conducted in a systematic manner. The husbands and wives are generally from different tribes. A classification of families has always been adopted and rigidly adhered to. 13. With regard to the probable future condition of the natives of the whole or any part of Australia I have always been impressed with the idea that in order to succeed in ameliorating the condition of savages and bringing about anything like civilization amongst them, concentration would be found necessary. Civilization is the result of a long social process. Those submit to civilization with the greatest difficulty who habitually live by roving and hunting. Everyone who understands the matter can easily foresee that the natives of Australia are most unlikely to conform to civilization. They are as obstinately attached as ever to all the superstitious prejudices, passions, customs and habits of their forefathers. They have always been found totally destitute of the most essential preliminary of civilization and I fear they will never require it. They exhibit great dislike to the restraint even of living at a particular place for any length of time though they are found in abundance of food and clothing. 14. In confirmation of the opinion I have expressed with respect to the improbability of any of the Australian tribes ever being civilized and even few of their numbers ever being advanced beyond a limited extent I would adieu some facts from which I think conclusive opinions may very fairly be drawn. Looking back on our very earliest intercourse with the aboriginal natives of New South Wales and to the attempts both public and private which were even then made to ameliorate their condition we have the well known case of the Sydney native Benelong who some sixty years ago was taken to England by the first governor of New South Wales in England Benelong remained for some time. Very soon after his return to the colony however he threw off all the clothes he had brought with him from England and returning to the bush rejoined his tribe as a native savage. This was perhaps the first most discouraging proof that the aboriginal natives of Australia seemed doomed to an animal and unimproving existence. Another and a well known case occurred lately in Victoria when the native police corps was broken up after having been informed for many years the fact was at once self-evident that during these years of intercourse with Europeans and in various parts of the colony the native troopers had acquired no indispensable taste for European comforts of civilization. On the other hand they nearly all at once discarded the idea of future improvement or other employment and being dismounted traveled on foot hundreds of miles to rejoin their respective tribes and resume their former habits of savage life. Several of these native police were recruited some years ago from this part of the colony having deserted prior to the breaking up of the corps they returned here having traveled on foot a distance of 400 miles since their return I regret to say they have too clearly shown that they have not improved by their absence from savage life. 15. Assuming the impracticability of any of the Australian tribes ever being civilized by means of concentration and that further attempt to do so would only involve a useless expenditure of a large amount of money and a hopeless cause the only question that remains is can useful knowledge be diffused amongst them or can anything be done towards improving their condition without controlling their wandering habits. Some attempts upon this principle were made many years ago in Canada by the Jesuits but without success I fear any attempts of this nature here would be equally fruitless. The Australian Aboriginal race seems doomed by Providence like the Mohican and their well-known Indian tribes to disappear from their native soil before the progress of civilization and they will in a few years only have an existence in the recollection of man. The race is so rapidly disappearing here in all other parts of the colony with which I am acquainted that I fear no other inference than the one I adopt can be deduced either from past experience or from present prospects. I have etc. You Jamison The Right Reverend, The Bishop of Melbourne etc. End of Section 54 Recording by Todd Section 55 of Letters from Victorian Pioneers This is a LibriVox recording or LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Letters from Victorian Pioneers Letter 55 from Thomas Winter Notes on Port Phillip by Thomas Winter Esquire In the letter to Mr Swanston Perhaps you have heard that in 1802 two ships were dispatched from Sydney with prisoners under sentence of transportation from that place and a suitable guard in order to form a settlement for the infliction of secondary punishment and Port Phillip was the place appointed for it. The vessel arrived there but strange to say the country being considered inhospitable and badly watered the place was relinquished and the party came instead to Van Diemen's Land and formed the first settlement in this island. It appears that from that time to about two years and a half ago no one had visited that part of the coast adjacent to Port Phillip. Then some sailors who had gone upon it by chance described it in such terms as led Mr Batman and one or two more to visit this new country. The result you know a company of settlers was formed partitioning the home government for the grant of a large tract. The place became notorious and all eyes were set towards a country possessing what seemed to the Van Diemen's lands that led the source of unbounded wealth namely unlimited pastures for sheep and that of the finest kind. Great numbers of sheep were soon sent over so great that now within two years of the first shipment the estimated number of sheep and lambs and a few only of which have been lately sent from Sydney outstations over land. Having mentioned a few interesting circumstances connected with the place I will now describe the place itself. The entrance to Port Phillip lies about north of Circular Head the northwest point of Van Diemen's land at a distance of 180 miles. The harbour resembles an inland sea and is from 40 to 50 miles across. The navigation is however intricate the water being for the most part shallow with but a narrow channel through the sandflights these being covered for the most part with about two fathoms of water. At the northeast extremity of the harbour is the mouth of the Yarra Yarra river upon which at the distance of seven miles from the anchorage in the harbour is the township of Melbourne. At the mouth of this river is a bar of mud over which the water flows only nine feet and consequently small vessels alone can reach the town. Williamstown is formed opposite the anchorage on the western side of the mouth of the Yarra at Jellybrand's Point and would be a thriving township but for the want of fresh water of which none has been found and the only supply at present is brought from Melbourne in boats. The situation of Williamstown is very pretty and it consists of about ten houses and stores of cargo from vessels. Melbourne is also beautifully situated on a gently sloping hill upon the banks of the Yarra and surrounded by a lovely country lightly covered with trees chiefly eucalyptus and acacia. I think there are 150 built or in progress at the present time. For some miles round Melbourne the country bears the same beautiful character grassy and luxuriant with trees scattered over it in the forests of old forests in England. There is, however, so great a scarcity of large sound timber fit for building that the greatest part of Melbourne is built with wood from Van Diemen's land. The want of good timbays generally felt throughout the colony and although there is plenty in the interior it is probable that many parts will always be more easily supplied from the island than from elsewhere. Almost every kind of natural scenery is to be met with that Port Phillip though it is very rarely that we find the steep, thickly wooded hills which are bound here. On the contrary I would say that the largest quantity of land, perhaps one-half the country already explored is plain, generally without trees nearly flat and often stony. Some of these plains are lightly timbered and are then called forests. The hills vary very much some resembling the wheelchair downs with the same short pastridge with rich long herbage and spotted with trees while others are woody to the top. But few of them, however, are either too steep or too woody to prevent a horse trotting up to the top. About 50 miles west of the Port is a beautiful fresh water lake the scenery around which is delightful. It is about 10 miles round. Beyond this is a saltwater lake 90 miles in circumference with numerous smaller ones all of which are salt. A singular feature of the country is the salt that abounds within a few yards of fresh water rivers. Water rises into holes as salt as the sea. I found one lagoon the water of which was nearly gone with a thick crust of pure salt and nearly all the wells here the two dug yield the same briny fluid. There are no navigable rivers. Neither can the country be called well-watered. I doubt not, however, that eventually the wells will be bored or dug sufficiently deep to reach fresh water springs. The sheep, cattle and horses, and indeed every animal that has been sent over thrives in an extraordinary manner. Lambs three months old weigh as much as their mothers while the cows are like fatted beasts. The natives are numerous and troublesome. Indeed, they are the greatest drawback to the colony since they cannot be trusted. Several murders have been committed by them and they seem to fear the white man's revenge. The men are tall, well made and muscular. Their hair long, black and generally curly such as might be coveted by an English dandy. Features very various but often good. Teeth particularly fine. The original clothing both of men and women seemed to be two mats made of skins joined together the one hanging before the other behind. Now most of them have some article of English clothing. Their natural food consists of the meat of the country and they can kill it but chiefly roots of which the favourite is that of a plant very much like dandelion. This they roast or eat raw. Their arms are spears, stone hatchets and a sort of wooden tomahawk. The quadrupeds of the country are the kangaroo of the largest kind or forester only. Opossum, bushy tailed and ring tailed. Flying squirrels which are fancy opossums having the membrane between the legs these are various. The smallest about as large as a full-sized cat is a very beautiful animal. Resembling the English squirrel in shape. The colour slate shaded off to white. The tail black and the fur beautifully soft. The wombat I believe is the same as in Van Diemen's land. The holes are different and are remarkable being always of one construction. A large funnel shaped hole perhaps six feet deep and three in diameter at the bottom. The burrow then strikes off horizontally invariably under a large slab of stone which prevents the earth falling. How the great hole is formed puzzles me. It is generally covered with grass except the path by which the animal descends. Rats are very numerous rather smaller than the common English one. The native dog a perfect fox is the most destructive animal to sheep. On account of this sheep are folded every night. I hope to send you ahead of one. The birds are the emu. I saw several but could not get one. I overseer found a nest with 16 eggs. We left them but the natives afterwards found and ate them. The native turkey which is a busted and rather common. The native companion a beautiful bird of the crane kind apparently. I was told of a kind of bat with a body larger than a rat but could not see one. Owls are numerous and there is a great variety. So are eagles and hawks. White parrots are bound. Indeed there is a great variety of this tribe some very beautiful. Quails are very plentiful one species being very rare their colour nearly black with red spots. I saw one at a distance but could not put it up again. I saw but few insects. The weather was often rather cold and I was seldom stationery in a good district. Socardi are deafening. End of section 55 recording by Jenny Bradshaw Section 56 of Letters from Victorian Pioneers This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit Letters.org Recording by Nima Letters from Victorian Pioneers Letter number 56 Part 1 from Gellibrand's memorandum of a trip to Port Phillip Sunday January 17th 1836 I embarked this morning with my son Tom on board the Norval for Port Phillip in company with Mr. William Robertson Mr. Gardner Mr. Leakey Mr. Malcolm and Mr. Moody The latter gentlemen having the management of the sheep on board the property of Captain Swanson After making point to Grant we encountered a severe gale of wind from the northwest and the vessel laid two for three nights and two days under close reef top sails. The vessel drifted about 70 or 80 miles to the southeast and on Sunday morning January 24th at daylight the ship was again off point Grant and bearing up to the westward of Cape Chancre in distant about 20 miles In consequence of the improper manner in which the vessel was fitted up for the stock about 115 sheep perished by injuries and suffocation during the gale and the day afterwards The greater portion of the hay had been destroyed in consequence of there not being any proper racks and on Saturday the 23rd the passengers were under the necessity of assisting Mr. Moody in feeding the sheep with flour and water The captain stated that he should not be able to make Port Phillip without two or three tax and even if he succeeded in getting into Port Phillip that evening it would most probably take him two days to reach the settlement and he also stated that the ship was under demurrage at ten pound per day and would be so until she came to anchor at western port where she was engaged to taking cargo of bark for the owner Under these circumstances the ship was convinced that if a change of wind took place and the vessel was again driven from the land the ship must perish and there not being any means of even keeping them alive for three days and believing that the ship could be landed at Sandy Point that day the passengers were unanimously of opinion that it would be for the interest of the charterers to proceed at once to western port land the stock to Port Phillip the captain then at the request of Mr. Moody made western port and about twelve o'clock the vessel came to anchor near Sandy Point about one the captain Mr. Moody Mr. Robertson Mr. Gardner Mr. Leakey and my son Tom proceeded to the shore for the purpose of selecting a proper place to land the ship and on board for the purpose of getting a long boat out in the sheep ready for disembarkation at about three hours the boat returned and the party stated that it was impossible to land sheep as there was nothing but heath and scrub and no appearance of water a person of the name of Tom was on board the vessel for the purpose of acting as pilot at western port contending the shipment of the and who was well acquainted with western port he represented that there was a beautiful tract of land with plenty of water about ten miles further up the bay and near to the government settlement which had been abandoned in 1827 after some deliberation and hesitation on the part of the captain it was determined that a party should proceed at daylight to Philip Island to examine that station and if we could not find good land and water to proceed at once to the spot pointed out by Mr. Tom January 25 went on short daylight with Mr. Malcolm, Mr. Robertson and Mr. Moody to Philip Island and returned in about an hour finding the island totally unfit for the purpose of being required got the vessel immediately under way and proceeded to the spot pointed out by Mr. Tom and came to anchor within a quarter of a mile from shore about nine o'clock in the morning the long and other boats were immediately loaded with sheep and Mr. Moody, Mr. Gardner Mr. Leakey, Mr. Malcolm Tom and myself and two shepherds went to shore with the first boat Mr. Robertson stayed on board for the purpose of super-intending the sheep and it was arranged that Mr. Moody and the shepherds should wait on the beach and receive them and that the others should examine the tract of land and decide upon the most eligible spot as a temporary settlement when the sheep were landed they endeavored to drink salt water and were inclined to wander as sheep always do in a strange place they were landed they were landed upon a point of land with abundance of grass and 300 acres of land might be enclosed by a line of 150 yards when I landed I particularly cautioned the shepherds not to let the sheep stray and to keep them from salt water we then proceeded to examine the land and found abundance of grass and in some places it was six feet high but we did not find any water and passing through one of the valleys I found the gleams of heat extremely oppressive in which brought on violent palpitations and a determination of blood to the head we were then distant about three miles from the vessel I walked back supported by Mr. Gardner and Mr. Leakey about one mile but was unable to proceed any further I then lay down under a tree Tom and Mr. Leakey remaining with me Mr. Gardner and Mr. Malcolm proceeded to the vessel to procure assistance they returned in two hours with a boat and I reached the vessel about three o'clock and found all the sheep amounting to one thousand and nine had been landed in the evening Mr. Robertson, Mr. Leakey and Mr. Gardner went to shore and found the shepherds near the point and that the sheep had straight away they went in search of them and brought back to the point about 800 which they placed in charge of the three shepherds who were then on shore January 26th Mr. Robertson and the other gentlemen went on shore at daylight and found that the shepherds instead of being stationed back in the bush so as to keep the sheep on the neck had in fact heavily neglected their duty and had slept at the extreme point on the beach close to the vessel and on searching for the sheep only two or three which were in a dying state could be found the gentlemen then proceeded in search of the sheep returned about eleven o'clock to the ship to breakfast having walked about fifteen miles in a fruitless search after the sheep Mr. Robertson having found for Mr. Tom that there was a fine river about nine miles from the point was extremely anxious to proceed in search of the sheep as far as the river under the expectation of finding them and Mr. Tom promising to meet them in the evening with a long boat near the mouth of the river the captain and my son left the vessel about the same time proceeded along the beach on the other side of the point and as far as the late settlement the captain and Tom found the tracks of sheep along the beach at about two miles from the landing place a muddy saltwater creek in the carcasses of about 280 sheep in and near the creek Mr. Robertson and the others reached the vessel about eleven o'clock at night they had been unsuccessful in their search they were worn out with fatigue and anxiety Mr. Moody went into violent hysterics Mr. Robertson and Mr. Leakey were both taken exceedingly ill and in fact nature appeared quite exhausted January 27th we this morning took into consideration our own situation what course should be pursued having suffered from the heat on Monday I did not think it proper to expose myself to the dangers of a journey over land and I intimated my intention of staying on board until a better opportunity of proceeding either backwards or forwards presented itself but finding that one or two of the gentlemen would follow my example and that the others would proceed over land to Port Phillip and thinking the three or four might be exposed to dangers which eight might prevent and knowing also the anxiety I should feel the uncertainty of their fate I at length determined that we should all proceed by the first opportunity to Port Phillip we were all anxious however before we quitted the vessel to conclude some arrangement for the establishment of Mr. Moody until we could send him assistance from Port Phillip and as the late government station appeared the most eligible for that purpose due to the situation and supply of water we proceeded this morning in the whale boat to that station and made arrangements which appeared satisfactory to Mr. Moody who then determined to remove all his stores and also the wives of the shepherds out of the vessel and fix his station there so that we might direct a party where to find him on our return to the ship the party were all busily engaged for the proposed journey and I was busily employed and making Calamel pills in case any of the party should be taken ill this day was extremely sultry and we are waiting some hours an anxious expectation of the sea breeze as we were desirous of reaching Sandy Point that night so that we might start upon our journey by daylight about five o'clock a slight breeze set in well to the Norval each person taking one bottle of water and trusting to Providence for such further supplies as we might require in our passage to Sandy Point Mr. Gardner shot a swan and Tom another we were unable to reach Sandy Point before dark at about three quarters of a mile from our landing place the boat grounded on a sand bank with a rapid ebbing tide it rained a ground high and dry all night at daylight the tide was flowing and in one and a half hours the vessel was afloat and about six o'clock we landed and saw many tracks of the natives upon the beach we made a fire and roasted the swans for breakfast which proved very acceptable and after having remunerated Mr. Tom for his trouble and obtained from him we must return to the same spot on the following Sunday in case we should be unable to accomplish our purpose Mr. Tom took his departure in the boat and we commenced our journey 28th the party were eight to number all carried arms except myself and all knapsacks except Tom and myself Mr. R most kindly carried the greater portion of my provisions and Mr. L the blankets and the remainder was carried by my shepherd Mr. G was chosen conductor and in case of any appearance of the natives the gentlemen were all pledged to act under my direction we pursued a course northwest and found the country for the first three miles heath and low scrub we then got into a thin forest and as we had walked about nine miles I felt the same effects from the heat that I had experienced the previous Monday and in consequence the party halted in the forest I lay down for about two hours and finding the heat very oppressive I took three grains of calamel and in half an hour afterwards took another pill whilst we were in the forest Mr. L had exhausted his supply of water and at this time he was determined to leave us in search of water accordingly Mr. L and one of the men left us and were absent upwards of one hour we became much alarmed at their absence but at length heard a coup and they returned with the intelligence that they had fallen in with about a hundred native huts and near the huts had discovered water we then packed up our things and proceeded on our course and about a quarter of an hour came to a few water holes surrounded with the thick scrub the party dined at this place and although it was extremely hot we remained there till five o'clock under the shelter of a blanket tent to protect us from the rays of the sun having filled all our battles with water we then proceeded on our journey and supposing the distance across to the bay of Port Phillip to be only a few miles we were induced to hope we should reach the beach that night several times we fancied we could discern the sea and we kept on walking till ten o'clock at night when we got into a piece of open scrub and thinking it safer to lie down in an open place we determined to stay there that night and those who had blankets spread them out and lay down to rest affording part to those who had none we were too tired either to make a fire or to eat January 29th we rose at daylight and proceeded on our journey without any breakfast under the hope of making the bay we came to two or three very scrubby places but without water and at this time I do not think there was a bottle of water amongst the whole party one or two of the gentlemen in our opinion that we were making too much north which prevented us from reaching the bay and as that seemed to be the object of our desire our course was altered a point or two more west and about eight o'clock in the morning we came upon a saltwater creek which led to Port Phillip Bay we found a fire burning in two native huts and every appearance of their having been occupied the previous night each we found tracks of natives proceeding towards Arthur's seat we rested here and made a fire some of the party proceeded in search of water which however was very brackish we had our breakfast and consumed what little water was left two bottles of the brackish water were boiled with tea in the event of not finding better water after resting at this place about half an hour we proceeded on our journey about five miles and then discovered several native huts into our great joy and gratitude found a creek with an abundant supply of water we rested at this place about two hours filled our bottles and proceeded on our journey about six miles and came to some more water holes and native huts we dined at the spot took a fresh supply of water and proceeded on our journey of low scrubby land upon which we took to the beach and came to an open sandy bay about 30 or 40 miles long we continued walking till about six o'clock when the weather became squally and wet we walked for about half an hour and hadn't tended to do so till late at night but the rain increasing we thought it most prudent to get some shelter before it was dark we then went into the scrub sheltered spot we made a blanket hut to protect us from the rain with a large fire in front we soon found a large quantity of blue ants on the ground which we had selected for our resting place and I therefore as it was too late to move our tent spread the ashes all over the ground which had the effect of driving them away it continued raining till about two o'clock but as we were lying on a sand bank we all absorbed 30th January we started this morning about half an hour before daylight and continued walking till eight o'clock without finding any fresh water we then rested and had our breakfast at about half a pint of tea to each person which was all the water we had left and we then continued our journey expecting at every turn of the bay that we should discover the river we continued walking till twelve o'clock when Mr. Leakey and Tom lay down and declared they could not proceed any further till they got water we had now quitted the shore and got upon high land again after resting on the hill about half an hour I urged upon the party to proceed and after some difficulty we were all on the march but some of the party were considerable distance behind we were now on a native track and the advantage of following those tracks is soon experienced this track continued along the margin of the hill and ultimately led us to the beach and near the beach we found a few native huts and one native well upon discovering the well Mr. Gee gave the welcome shout water which was immediately repeated by the others and in a few minutes the weary ones in a rear came rushing down anxious to quench their thirst but by the time they had reached the well Mr. Gee reported the water to be bad Mr. R however examined the well and thinking that had been choked up he got a noise to shell and cleaned it out and deepened it expecting that the fresh water would be good the party were now obliged to wait with much anxiety watching the rising of the water in the hole and at length we were enabled to distribute to each person half a pint and in about one hour a second supply of one pint each was distributed for dinner and we were enabled when we quitted at four o'clock to take with us three bottles of water at four we continued our course along the beach Mr. Gardner and myself making the first start and in about ten minutes we saw a dog on the beach at length he stopped and ran back again and turned into the bush from which we concluded that the natives were at hand we waited till some of the party came up and then advanced and found on the beach part of a boomer kangaroo and we saw the tracks of several natives on the beach and several tracks of dogs we fully expected this night to reach the settlement and we pushed on until seven o'clock we then came to a point where we expected would be the head of the river we crossed over the point and found a stack of wattle bark and we also found the hut where the barkers had lived and the tracks of a cart it had been raining about three quarters of an hour and we were nearly wet through we felt assured that we were near the settlement and that the bark had been obtained by Mr. Faulkner's party but we could not see the river it was near night and we saw every appearance of a wet night and we therefore considered it most prudent at once to make a blanket hut for the night and make a fire before the bark and grass were too wet in which we accordingly did two of the party went in search of waterholes but without success and Tom went to the beach to shoot a duck and in about ten minutes he returned having found the waterholes near the beach and where we again obtained an abundant supply of good water this night was very wet and the most uncomfortable night we had experienced 31st, January although we were satisfied that we were near the settlement we considered it most prudent to keep the bay until we reached the river and after walking seven miles further we at length discovered the mouth of the river my feet had been for the last two days and I felt quite unable to walk any further and I therefore proposed that half the party should proceed to the settlement and send a boat or a horse to my assistance and Mr. Gardner, Mr. Leakey Mr. Malcolm and Tom proceeded to the settlement I hobbled along with the assistance of Mr. Robertson about three miles and then waited for the horse or boat in about half an hour a boat, manned with blacks came down the river we hailed them and after explaining where we had come from and who we were they came to our assistance we found they were going to the heads to fish but they immediately proceeded with us to the settlement and we arrived there about twelve o'clock the settlement consist of about a dozen huts built with turf on the left bank of the river Yara Yara the river from the mouth to the settlement is about eight miles long it is salt for about six the first two miles it is about five hundred yards wide for the next three miles it is about three hundred yards it then becomes gradually narrower and is about sixty yards wide at the settlement with deep and precipitous banks and vessels of sixty tons birthing can with safety to the settlement close to the shore and discharge a cargo as it was of importance that immediate assistance should be rendered to Mr. Moody I made arrangements with Mr. Batman to dispatch on the next morning four Sydney natives who it appeared were well acquainted with western port and who upon my questioning them appeared also quite confident that they would be able to find the sheep and bring them to Port Phillip I felt very much vexed on learning that the natives with the exception of two had left the settlement on a hunting expedition a few days previous and would not return for some time first February I had this morning a long conversation with Buckley and explained to him very fully the desire of the association in every respect to make him superintendent over the native tribes for the purpose of protecting them from aggressions and also of acting as an interpreter in imparting to them not only the habits of civilization but also of communicating religious knowledge it appears from his statement that the tribes are most peaceably disposed that they fully understand the nature of the grants issued by them and that they are looking forward to the time when the blankets, tomahawks and flour will be distributed Buckley appears to be of a nervous and irritable disposition and a little thing will annoy him much but this may arise from the peculiar situation in which he has been placed for so many years I am quite satisfied that he can only be acted upon by kindness and conciliation and that by those means he will be an instrument in the hands of Providence and working a great moral change upon the Aborigines he is not at all desirous of occupying any land or having sheep but is highly pleased at the idea of being appointed superintendent of the natives with a fixed stipend so that, to use his own expression he may know what he has to depend upon and be enabled to make a few presents to his native friends I told him that I intended the following day to proceed to Gielong and inquired whether he would not like to visit his own country he seemed much pleased at the idea but stated he did not think he could walk so far I then proposed he should ride which seemed to gratify him very much and in consequence I engaged a large cart-horse of Mr. Faulkner's for that purpose my feet were so bad and as I was desirous of seeing number twelve I had my horse taken to the fording place and round to the saltwater creek at about ten o'clock Mr. G., Mr. R., Dr. Cotter myself and Linfield went in the whaleboat to the creek I took Linfield with me for the purpose of making him acquainted with that section as I intended to stock it after passing over about six miles of the section we came upon a large saltwater river which Dr. Cotter was of opinion communicated with a chain of freshwater ponds which he had recently crossed on that section Dr. C. and myself therefore proceeded to trace up the river and I requested the remainder of the party to trace it down to the sea Dr. C. and myself then traced the river up to the chain of ponds and I was quite satisfied there was plenty of water on the grant we then made a cross to the point at which the ships lay and the stock was landed we found all the party with the exception of Linfield who it appeared had stayed behind we waited for him about three quarters of an hour and as it was six in the evening the gentlemen were anxious to return and I therefore desired the man to take the horse round to the point find Linfield and bring him home by the fording place about ten o'clock at night the man returned home with a horse and stated that he could not find Linfield anywhere and as I felt very uneasy about him I desired Mr. Batman to send the boat to daylight the next morning in search of him 2 February the boat returned this morning about seven o'clock with Linfield who finding he had lost us proceeded to the saltwater creek where he had been landed and being, as I imagined very much afraid of the natives sat up in a tree all night and seeing the boat to come down the river cooied to them Mr. Faulkner's vessel arrived this morning from Georgetown and I considered it advisable to send the assistance to Mr. Moody in the removal of the women stores and rams from western port and I therefore engaged the vessel for one trip upon Captain Swanson's account and consequence of Mr. Faulkner's people being engaged with the vessel we were unable to obtain the horses for our journey until about four in the afternoon when we started seven in number intending to reach Captain Swanson station on the river X that night the scenery from the settlement to the ford on the saltwater river is most beautiful and some of the spots quite enchanting the grass had been burnt about a month previously and was then quite green and beautiful the land is very rich and consists of a succession of gentle hills and dales and the first view of the saltwater river and its windings is beautiful beyond description we reached the ford about 630 when we found the country completely changed when we crossed the ford the land was then quite flat and rather rocky and from the ford to the station on the X a distance of 14 miles and in fact up to the Elong harbor consisted of open plains with a thin coat of grass and exposed to the cold winds we did not reach the station until 1030 at night and were compelled for the last seven miles to follow a cart track which we were fortunately enabled to do as it was a starlight tonight end of section 56 section 57 of letters from Victorian pioneers this is a LibriVox recording all LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org recording by Nemo letters from Victorian pioneers letter number 56 part 2 from Gellibrand's memorandum of a trip to Port Phillip 3rd February as Mr. Ferguson had not found the sheep when we were proceeding in the direction where they had been lost he proposed to accompany us in our visit to Geylong and we started this morning about 7 o'clock at noon we came upon a chain of ponds which appeared to come from the debakka right in which I accordingly noted my chart we stopped at this chain of ponds and dined in towards evening we came upon some native wells near the point of Geylong harbor which are called Gihwar and as there was good feed for the horses we determined on staying here for the night 4th February we started from Gihwar about 6 o'clock and shortly afterwards entered the section number 16 which we found to contain a tract of most excellent land fit for agricultural or pastoral purposes after traveling about 14 miles we came to some more native wells on the margin of the bay and close to the line which divides 16 from 17 we stayed at this place and dined and then proceeded across the Bellarine Hills to the settlement at Invented Head the Bellarine Hills contained about 20,000 acres of land of the finest description they consist of hill and dale and although we did not see any water in the valleys at this time satisfied water could be easily obtained the land is thinly timbered the soil appeared very rich and fit for any purpose the kangaroo grass was up to my middle and with a thick bottom it is as fine attractive land as any I have yet to pass over we reached the settlement about 4 o'clock and I learned to my extreme mortification that some of the natives of that morning and the others the day previously quitted the settlement in consequence of the threats made use of by the man at the station that he would shoot the natives I found that the natives had a few nights previously stolen about a sack of potatoes out of the garden they had pulled up the roots and taken the potatoes and then planted the roots in the earth again thinking they should not be discovered to prevent a repetition of this conduct the threats had been made use of without the slightest intention of carrying them into execution I found, in answer to my inquiries that no food of any description had been given to the natives for the last three months that although there is abundance of fish at indented head yet there are no means of catching them and that the natives had no idea of making boats or catamarans February 5th we started very early this morning under the expectation that we should see the natives and in order that they should not be frightened I directed Buckley to advance and we would follow him at the distance of a quarter of a mile Buckley made towards a native well and after he had ridden about eight miles we heard a cui when we arrived at the spot I witnessed one of the most pleasing and affecting sights there were three men five women and about twelve children Buckley had dismounted and they were all clinging around him in tears of joy and delight running down their cheeks it was truly an affecting sight and proved the affection which these people entertained for Buckley I felt much affected at the sight myself and considered it a convincing proof of the happy results that our exertions have properly directed amongst the number were a little old man and an old woman one of his wives Buckley told me this was his old friend with whom he had lived and associated thirty years I was surprised to find that this old man had not a blanket and I inquired the cause and was much concerned to learn that no blankets had been given him because he did not leave part of the country and proceed to Dutagala for it I could ill spare my blankets for him but I could not refrain from giving one of them to Buckley in order that he might give it to his friend with an assurance that he should have further clothing after our return the men seemed much surprised at the horses I however after some little persuasion induced the youngest man to put his foot up and mount my gray mare and I led the horse round a few paces to the great delight of the whole party I then coaxed the mare and put my face to hers to show them they need not be afraid and then prevailed upon a young girl about thirteen years of age also to take a ride as soon as the horse began to move she seemed very much alarmed and her countenance bespoke her fears but she continued silent we gave them a few presents and then left them to proceed on our journey I may here mention that so soon as Buckley crossed the Saltwater River and obtained a view of his own country his countenance was much changed and when we reached Gilong he took the lead and kept us upon a trot he seemed quite delighted and proud of his horse when we quitted the natives we directed our course to the head of the Barworn River this river is about two miles wide there are breakers on each side of the heads like Port Phillip but it appeared to me that there was a channel in the center we then proceeded through a fair country near the margin of the river until we arrived at a flat where the river is at least eight or nine miles wide at this flat there are some very good native wells called Yan Yan we dined at this place and continued our course near the river until we had crossed over a very extensive marsh on the banks of the Barworn the extremity of number 16 we stopped at this place all night and shot some wild vowels which we had for our supper Tom shot a large musk duck which Buckley had for his supper February 6th we started this morning about six o'clock and when we had got out of the marsh we saw Gilong Harbor and ascertained that the distance from the harbor at the neck was not more than four miles we continued our course upon some highland until we had reached the junction of the Yal Oak and Barworn rivers we then descended into a marsh on the Yal Oak left our horses there crossed the Yal Oak by a native track over a large tree and went across to the Barworn to a spot called Buckley's Falls where there is a large basin and the river somewhat resembles the cataract basin at Long Keston but upon a smaller scale Buckley showed us the hollow tree in which he used to live in the places where the natives used to catch the fish in the winter season Mr Gardner, Mr Leakey Mr Robertson myself and Mr Malcolm crossed over the cataract for the purpose of examining the Barra Bull Hills which had presented a most inviting appearance in our progress at the Barworn river we passed over about eight or nine miles and kept upon the high grounds in order that we might see the surrounding country we found the herbage to be very good and I think the best sheep country we had passed over and I believe the other gentlemen were the same opinion we were compelled to cross the Barworn at the same spot and I should think from the appearance of the country that the Barworn is a deep river about sixty feet wide for many miles up in the winter a large body of water passes down it we then crossed the all oak and dined and proceeded about twelve miles further up the river for the purpose of inspecting the country and also searching for tracks of sheep but without success we stayed in a small marsh on the banks of the all oak that night and the river at this part is only a small running stream having a few spare potatoes we planted them in this marsh near the fire February 7th as soon as we made the rising ground this morning we took an observation of the Villa Monada and Anaki Hills we found that they were not correctly laid down we then proceeded direct for Anaki Hills we passed over a track to very fine land and found some water holes at the foot of the Anaki in the herbage for miles round and even up to the top of the finest description we reached the summit of the highest hill from which we had a beautiful view of the land extending up towards the X which appeared to be very fine and well timbered also of the Barwoo Hills and of the land in and about Geylong we descended on the north side passed along flat lands between the Anaki and the Villa Monpa and left them four miles on the right we then came upon the Debakarite which enabled me to continue the chain of ponds and where we dined and after dinner we rode across to Captain Swanson Station which we reached at sundown February 8th we passed this morning over to the upper part of number 12 in order to continue the chain of ponds which we traced up to and over number 11 we dined at the stock hut at the Ford and after dinner passed about five miles along the side line of number 9 and then made an angle across to the settlement which we reached about 4 p.m and found that no vessel had arrived during our absence in the evening some of the natives came to the settlement which was coming in they also made us understand that they had tracked us on the beach and followed us many miles and they had also seen the places where we had slept February 9th a day like this morning we heard the report of guns from the ship and shortly afterwards the natives reported that a vessel was at anchor with three mast concluding it was the Caledonia Mr. Ferguson went down the river with Mr. Batman's boat about 11 o'clock Captain Simmers of the Caledonia came up to the settlement I then arranged with him for a passage to Georgetown to be on board on Saturday afternoon at 2 o'clock Mr. Ferguson, Mr. Leakey Mr. Robertson, myself Winfield and Stewart one of the Sydney natives left the settlement for the purpose of proceeding to the northward and exploring that part of the country we took with us four days supplies and only two guns my object in taking Stewart was to prevent the possibility of any collision with the natives and that he might act as an interpreter we proceeded in a straight line for the lands reserved for the settlement in over number nine and passing over number nine we crossed a chain of ponds extending a little to the northwest when we had reached the extremity of number nine and were upon number seven it was nearly dark we observed a tear of sheep hills to the right and concluded that we should find water at the foot and we accordingly moved to the right and passed over about four miles of very fine land and just at dusk came upon a chain of ponds as we expected where we stayed all night February 10th we started this morning at daylight leaning to the right and ascending the sheep hills so that we might be enabled to obtain an extensive view to the northeast we traveled in this direction about four miles and from the summit of the hill we had an extensive view of the country composing numbers three and four and part of eight the country appeared rather thickly wooded towards number four and particularly so over number eight we were enabled clearly to trace the course of the river Yara Yara by the white fog we then proceeded in a westerly direction till we came to the chain of ponds which I had particularly traced through number eight and the line of which I was then enabled to continue this chain of ponds I considered to be within a mile of the sideline between number seven and number six the country and pastures are here very fine and present a desirable spot for the wested as I intended to come back over numbers one and two and within a few miles of this spot I marked down on the chart two sugar-low hills the weather was exceedingly hot this day and we rested under a blanket tent for some hours at the ponds in the afternoon we proceeded in a westerly course over a continuation of plains we then ascended a rise and from the summit obtained we saw, commanding a full view of the junction near the settlement, the bay Geylon, the Lomonata and the Barbu Hills I think it must have been from this spot Mr. Hume had the first view of Port Phillip after taking observations in the bearings of these several places on the chart we continued our course over number six until we reached the Saltwater River or the River Arndelle as called by Mr. Hume we found the land lightly timbered and fully equal to our expectations as to quality the country near the river is hilly and full of glens and is well calculated for an extensive sheep run we continued our course on the high ground and near the river for about five miles and then descended into a small marsh near Gums Corner where we stayed all night February 11th we this morning crossed the Saltwater River and took a westerly direction to the summit of a flat top hill which Stuart stated was the hill from which Mr. Batman saw the native fires upon his first visit in which he called Mount Irama we then proceeding over a running stream which nearly divides number five we were detained some time waiting for Mr. Ferguson whose horse had lost a horseshoe when he reached me I told him that as we were limited to time it was necessary we should push on and I proposed that he should mount Stuart's horse and that Stuart should lead his horse to the settlement my object in doing this was to afford him the opportunity of inspecting number one and two in order that he might report there upon to Captain Swanson and to accomplish this purpose I should have deprived myself of Stuart's assistance Mr. Ferguson without even thanking me for the offer observed that the black man were very careless and that he should not trust his horse with him Stuart had hitherto carried a double-barreled gun for the protection of the party Mr. Ferguson called to Stuart to give him the gun and wished me good morning during the whole of our journey through the bush the fires had in every instance been produced from the phosphoric matches which Mr. Ferguson had independent of which he also carried a steel-prepared punk I felt much surprised at his conduct not knowing whether we might experience any difficulty in obtaining fire I said to him if you leave us what shall we do with our matches he simply replied oh, you will have no difficulty in obtaining fire and rode away and left me but this time we were not more than 22 miles from his tent Mount Cotterill was in full view and he could easily have reached home that afternoon we then proceeded northwest about two miles and as we were desirous of seeing the land to the westward we took our matches with the servants and ascended the summit of the Sugarloaf Hill about half a mile distant we had now only a single barrel gun for our production we then altered our course nearly due north and passed over some very good planes and near the foot of a tier of hills we crossed over two or three rivulets at one of which we dined we then came to a forest of gum and stringy bark and on half we then altered our course and proceeded due east on our way from the forest to the line extending to the Villa Manta Hills we passed over two other creeks which appeared to flow in a southerly direction we continued our course until we again reached the Saltwater River the land of number one is very good and is well watered we crossed three chains of ponds about three miles distant from each other we stayed on the banks all night and as we did not reach the river till near dark and were fatigued we did not put up any hut or break wind about twelve at night we had a heavy thunderstorm by two o'clock we were all wet through February 12th Mr. Leakey and myself had slept upon the hills to avoid the mosquitoes and when we had descended into the bottom we found the fire almost out we roused the party and were at length with the greatest difficulty enabled to make the fire burn but continued burning till daylight and we then dried our clothes had some hot tea crossed the river and proceeded on our journey we now altered our course for the purpose of passing between the two hills which I had marked down on the tenth and we arrived at the spot within a few minutes of the time we expected so that the chart must be correctly laid down and also our observation upon it about one mile from the river we came upon a most beautiful veil extending apparently several miles to the northward and extending over part of number six and seven this veil contains about twenty thousand acres of the richest quality under the finest herbage I ever saw and in my opinion far superior to any of the land upon number nine or any of the sections we found the continuation of the rivulet and that it wound around the flat top till thereby affording a most eligible situation for our homestead we then continued our course to another hill near the margin of number seven which we passed over and from this hill we had the opportunity of proving the correctness of the hills marked down by the observation we then continued our course about eight miles over fine feeding land and came upon a rapid stream of water flowing like all the other rivers from the north to south we called this river the river Plenty as it is the only stream except the river Barwon deserving the name of river we dined at this river and after proceeding about one mile down it in order to form an opinion as to its course and as we were desirous of reaching if possible the river Yargar that afternoon we then crossed the river and made an easterly course through forest land about six miles and until we came upon another rapid stream flowing in a southerly direction and which it was impossible to cross in consequence of the hills and scrub we then proceeded about a mile southeast when we were again stopped by a small stream and found the land very boggy after proceeding about half a mile south and one mile west along a high ridge we determined to cross if possible the stream and which after much labor we accomplished but finding it impossible to continue our course and the land between us and the Yargar being very heavy and thickly wooded we were compelled again to recross the last stream and as it was near six in the evening with an appearance of rain we thought it most prudent to halt for the night and put up a strong and secure tent to protect us from the wet February 13th when we awoke this morning we found to our dismay that the horses with the exception of one mare which had been tethered out were missing in about an hour Stuart returned informing us that he had discovered the tracks and that the horses were all gone we were under an engagement to return to the settlement by 12 o'clock we calculated that we were distant about 17 miles in a straight line we got our breakfast and packed all the saddles upon the horse which had been tethered out and then proceeded in search of the horses by following their tracks and here the instinct of that noble animal was most powerfully exhibited the horses had been a circuit of at least 120 miles they had never been within 10 miles of the spot where we were stationed that night and yet, instead of proceeding back upon their tracks the horses made a direct course for the settlement around the hills with as much care and sagacity as could have been manifested had they been led by a native we followed the tracks about 7 miles and until we came upon the banks of the river Plenty where we found the horses grazing we then saddled them across the river and continued the course to the settlement which we reached at 5 minutes past 12 upon my arrival at the settlement I found about 150 natives and I learned with much concern that an act of aggression had been committed upon one of the women which required my immediate attention without waiting to refresh myself or refit I proceeded to the native huts and ordered the person supposed to be implicated to be brought down I found a young woman about 22 lying on the ground covered over with a kangaroo rug and suffering more violent contusion on the back part of her head and which I understood had been inflicted upon her by her husband it appeared that she was one of three wives that the tribe had lately been on the Saltwater River and near the shepherd's hut on number 10 that this woman was proceeding towards the settlement to see her mother and fell in with one of the shepherds who laid hold of her brought her to the hut tied her hands behind her and kept her there all night and either that night or the next morning abused her person when she reached the settlement she communicated to her friends the injuries she had sustained and they immediately apprised Buckley of it expecting to obtain redress the natives are particularly jealous respecting their women and they consider any intercourse of this kind as a contamination and in every case punish the woman frequently even to death the natives men women and children assembled around me I explained to them through Buckley our determination in every instance to punish the white man and to protect the natives to the utmost of our power but we are not allowed to beat them as they had the woman but would send them to their own country to be punished the woman was then raised and the two men placed before her and Buckley asked her if either of these men had ill treated her person she replied no and I then inquired whether she had ever seen them before she replied yes they were in the hut when the other man brought her in with her hands tied I then inquired of the overseer and found that a third man was at the hut but had not been brought down I then explained to the two men the wickedness of their conduct and how justly they would be punished if the natives had inflicted an injury upon them and gave orders that as soon as fresh shepherds could be obtained they should be removed from the settlement under the terms of their indentures I directed the other man to be immediately sent for and if the woman identified him as the aggressor that he should be removed from the settlement by the first ship and be publicly taken away as a prisoner I directed Buckley to explain to the whole tribe the course which I directed to be pursued and I could perceive by the expression of their countenances that they were highly satisfied I then endeavored to make the poor woman understand how much I commiserated with her situation and I tied around her neck a red silk handkerchief which delighted her exceedingly footnote the manuscript and the possession of the trustees of the public library ends here and the following passages are printed from the imperfect copy of Gellibrand's journal given in volume 3 of the transactions of the Philosophical Society of Victoria and footnote missing portion all of the party missing portion and we all went in the captain's boat to the mouth of the river and reached the missing portion 16th February by daylight this morning we were visited on board by four of our own tribe Mr. Batman's whale boat the natives appeared much pleased and surprised at the appearance of the vessel they remained on board about a quarter of an hour when having obtained a supply of biscuit they left us at missing portion o'clock the vessel was under way missing portion and proceeded towards the sea Mr. Escort came to anchor near the settlement at indented head when we were near Arthur's seat it became necessary to work the vessel through a narrow passage about four miles long this passage is not more than a mile and a half wide in some places and the missing portion in the evening so that the captain was afraid to proceed to sea that night lest we should be driven upon Cape Otway and in consequence came to anchor about three miles from the heads under the lee of the land 17th February we got under way at daylight and made a safe passage between the head support Philip missing portion about 11 o'clock at night we reached White's Hotel at Lawn Keston observations the natives are a fine race of men many of them handsome in their persons and all well made they are strong and athletic very intelligent and quick in their perceptions missing portion preparing meat missing portion the women and especially the young ones are particularly modest in their behavior and also in their dress they all appear to be well disposed and very fond of bread and potatoes in the winter season they live principally on fishing game upon the missing portion appearance of the country I feel persuaded that they must exert themselves considerably in obtaining subsistence and from their extreme partiality to bread and potatoes I feel not the slightest doubt but that they may be all brought to habits of industry and civilization when the mode of obtaining potatoes and wheat missing portion country is generally missing portion open flat champagne country with abundance of verger and well watered but far exceeds my expectations although I was prepared to expect something very superior I consider the representations of Mr. Batman fully borne out and from the account given by Buckley I am disposed to believe missing portion I this day missing portion settlement at Port Phillip having taken a trip over in the Adelaide with some of my sheep I found the young woman before spoken of living at the settlement with her husband and his other wives she had quite recovered from the contusion and her husband was again reconciled to her End of Section 57 Section 58 of Letters from Victorian Pioneers This is a LibriVox recording All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org Letters from Victorian Pioneers Letter 58 from John Hart Melbourne April 24th, 1854 Sir Enclosed is the account you favored me by asking for I have no doubt that most of its contents Your Excellency will not be interested in the least about I found it necessary to go back a long time to arrive at the dates having none of my books and papers with me and I have been disappointed in getting from the Custom House records at Lonsiston the information required on that head in consequence of the dismissal of the officer to whom I wrote to furnish it I regret I cannot at present go to Lonsiston and make the search I have no doubt the local newspapers of the date would make mention of my early trip also trusting you will excuse the very imperfect manner that I complied with your request I remain your obliged servant John Hart to his Excellency Governor Latrobe In the months of November 1831 became master of the schooner Elizabeth of Lonsiston owned by Mr. John Griffith and bound on a ceiling voyage to the Northwest Islands Early in December we landed on the Loverance Rocks Portland Bay where we were joined by a boat screw left there the year before they having procured nearly 400 skins Proceeding towards Kangaroo Island anchored on the 16th in Gehen Bay Ending on Bodine's Rocks killed 30 seals leaving one man with the supply of water and provisions until our return anchored in Napaen Bay on the 20th and procured from the Salt Lagoon 5 tons of salt bought 150 skins seal and 12,000 wallabies skins from the Islanders These Islanders were principally men who had left various ceiling vessels when of their homeward voyage The masters readily agreeing to an arrangement by which they secured for the next season all the skins obtained during their absence This island life had a peculiar charm for the sailors being supplied from the ship with flour tea, sugar, tobacco and a few slopes and living generally in pairs on the shore of one of the little bays They cultivated a small garden to supply them with potatoes onions and a small patch of barley for their poultry They thus led an easy independent life as compared with that on board ship They obtained wives from the mainland These attended to the wallaby snares caught fish and made up the boat's crew when on a ceiling excursion to the neighboring rocks At Kangaroo Island there were some 16 or 18 of these men On a certain day once a year, they assembled from all parts of the island to meet the vessel in Nappin Bay and dispose of their skins Getting a supply in return for the following year the only money required being a sovereign or two for making earrings There was another class of men also who probably had escaped from one demon's land These lived generally on islands apart from the others on Thistle Island near Port Lincoln and other islands in Spencer's Gulf and there was one man who had been unvisited for three years when I saw him on this trip This man lay under the suspicion of having murdered his original companions He had two wives whose bully heads clearly showed their one demon's land origin Although so long without supplies he had every comfort about him a convenient stone house good garden small wheat and barley paddocks with pigs, goats and poultry made him quite independent of the vessel except for tea and tobacco He had collected 7000 wallaby skins of a kind peculiar to this island very small, fine furred and beautifully mottled in color I sold these in Sydney for the China market Returning to Launceston in February 1832 I was first employed to take Mr. Sinclair's whaling party to Twofold Bay and afterwards in the Sydney trade November 3rd proceeded on a second ceiling trip landing on almost every rock between Baths, Straits and Delbsville Island Bay returned to Launceston after a very successful trip in March 1833 My mate Mr. Dutton appointed the chief headsman of fishing in Portland Bay employed attending on these whalers whales so plentiful that on my visiting the bay in June I found all the casks full and the men putting oil into pits they had made in the clay Out of 100 tons thus dealt with a very small quantity was saved I took the first cargo of oil from Portland on this occasion Port Ferry was visited three years before by the cutter of that name commanded by Mr. Wishart Mr. E. Henty made his first visit to Portland with me returning to Launceston the same voyage November fitted for my third ceiling voyage which was extended to Cape Leewin on this voyage we anchored in the harbor of Middle Island discovered close to the beach a lagoon containing fine salt in such quantities that we took on board 20 tons in three days on this voyage also I was on the plane where Adelaide now stands and also discovered the dangerous reef of Cape Jaffa returned to Launceston in March 1834 two fisheries in Portland Bay this year voyage to Hokeanga, New Zealand October brought Griffith's party of whalers from Portland employment having to be found for these men during the summer to prevent them being employed by the opposition fishing party took a number of them on an expedition to Strip Bark left Launceston the latter end of November having on board a team of bullocks, a dray and some 20 men besides the crew entered the heats of western port the beginning of December anchored under Phillips Island saw the place where a settlement had been ruins of houses and workshops with broken crockery etc the land here was bad and there were no battle trees stood up the harbor surprised to find the deep water channel marked with beacons on each side anchored abreast of the ruins of another settlement landed the men and team here were the remains of houses and gardens grass very abundant and the battle trees the largest I had ever seen employed for a fortnight collecting bark saw the traces of numerous cattle shot a large white bull finding the bark so abundant I loaded the schooner and proceeded to Sydney leaving the shore party behind sold my cargo to a ship bound to London and chartered the ship Andromeda to load bark in western port for London put on board Mr. Thaum pilot and supercargo she arrived there in April 1835 in the meantime I proceeded to Launceston and gave an account of my trip first to my owner and Mr. Connolly afterwards to a number of persons assembled in the billiard room of the Cornwall Hotel among whom were Mr. Faulkner Messiers Geo and John Evans and I think Mr. Batman I spoke in high terms of the land and the grass instance the sign of the Mimosa trees as a proof for the one and the condition of the wild cattle as a result for the other when however the Andromeda arrived to get her clearance at the custom house at Launceston the fame of the place was spread far and wide by the returned bark cutters many of these were farming men born in one demon's land and they at once saw the advantages of this beyond that of their own country the cargo of the Andromeda was consigned to John Gore and co of Launceston through Mr. Connolly and sold for about 13 pounds per ton I brought vast numbers of black swans which we had pulled down while molting the waters of western port were covered with these birds in December 1835 I sailed as a passenger to London and while there gave evidence to some of the South Australian commissioners on the subject of the coast and lands of that province I furnished sailing directions for Colonel Light then about to leave in the rapid I related to Colonel Torrance the fact that the port Lincoln natives circumcised their males in a very extraordinary manner although the tribes around had no such custom in September I sailed from London to Launceston taking with me as passengers several of the now old South Australian settlers who on my suggestion went to one demon's land in the first instance to select their stock etc to take with them in November 1837 I undertook to drive a herd of cattle from Portland to Adelaide these cattle I had originally bought from Mr. Dutton in Sydney to be delivered in Portland I had shipped a large number during the previous six months the remainder about 500 head I started with from Darlott's Greek my party consisted of Mr. Poulin who had been my chief officer now I believe Captain Poulin R.N. of the North Star and nine men I arrived at Mr. S. Winter station on the van on the third and for a week was employed exploring to the westward of the Glenale with a view of making a direct course to Adelaide finding however no water I determined to make the Murray by Major Mitchell's Road I had however greater difficulties to overcome than I expected it was a season of extraordinary drought many water holes were dry in the bottoms of which we found monster mussels lying putrid I was obliged therefore to leave the Major's Road for the purpose of procuring water his object at the season in which he passed being to avoid it I arrived on the Murray near Mount Hope early in January 1838 and travelling down the stream crossed the river about 15 miles below the Darling at this place the depth of water did not exceed 18 inches on a sandy bottom as a nautical man I felt great interest in this river and so at once that it would be navigable for a great portion of the year possibly for the whole year in ordinary seasons I observed that the cause of the shallows was the river having to cross in its course to the westward the pine sand ridges that run north and south and therefore when the river is full in these places it increases its widths and brings a fresh supply of sand into its bed no deepening therefore will avail here and it appears to me the only improvement that could be made would be to narrow the channel artificially with clay or wood the expense of which would make it impossible to be done for ages to come nothing struck me so much on this river as the splendid timber grows on its banks I never saw anything equal to it for shipbuilding purposes I arrived in Adelaide March the 1st without the loss of a beast and on the 3rd sailed to Launceston to ship the whalers for Encounter Bay End of Section 58 End of Letters from Victorian Pioneers