Hi, you guys. Welcome to another First Impression Friday video. McCall's fall came out, I don't know, sometime last week. So we are here to take a look at the new collection. I think, I'm pretty sure, correct me if I'm wrong, that this is the last of the Big Four's fall collection. So we'll have a few weeks of a break from Big Four releases.  But let's take a look at this. So first up, we have what they're calling a top, and then here it says knit poncho tops. Are we still using the word poncho? Some of these terms, I just, I don't know about. Shouldn't it be like cape or something? Anyways, poncho tops with wide sleeve bands and options for cropped, shaped, and tassel hems. How cute is that tassel hem? Turtle neck and crew neck options as well. Let's take a look at the photos. Super cute styling here. Still young and fresh, but also like, ageless, you know, like anybody could wear this, the whole outfit. So this is one of the versions. I guess that's the turtle neck. It's something about cuff bands, right? So I guess that's what that is. And then you have a tassel hem, you have a split hem here, real loose. Here is the line drawing. You can kind of see how it comes together.  There's a turtle neck version. And then there she is again. Here's the back. Not much to discuss fitting-wise here, because obviously it's so loose fitting, but you do have the three different neck lines. You have the like just crew or stitched neck line. And then one turtle neck. And wait, that can't be right. Didn't I say there were three neck lines? Options for cropped, shaped, and tassel hems. Turtle neck and crew neck options. Okay. So three hem options. I see cropped, scooped, or shaped, and then the tassel hem. Very cute. I wonder how short the cropped one is. And also maybe some styling ideas for that. I imagine it hits just above the like true hip line. Maybe, I don't know. But the tassels are really cute too. Let's look at the yardage and see how they have us doing those. Oh, you actually make the tassels. Wow. It's not purchased like, I don't know, if I was thinking like curtain tassels that you would just sew on, they have you actually make the tassels. That's pretty fun, right? That's an interesting way to incorporate many different facets of the company that owns McCall's patterns. Remember in the last video, they were linking out to like where you can buy these buttons. It was a little bit random. But this, it doesn't seem as random. That seems actually pretty cool and pretty fun. Like a fun little way to, I don't know, make your own trim. They also have those like tassel maker things if you wanted to do it that way.  Anyways, so moderate stretch knits, 35% across the, 35% stretch, sweater knits, French Terry sweatshirt fleece cotton knits. Yeah.  I mean, you could make it out of that. But I think that it would look, you know, it needs to be a little bit substantial and hefty to like hold all these folds and just the volume of it all. Fabric requirement wise, you really only, so it only is suitable for 60 inch fabrics. Or more. And it's anywhere from like one and a half yards up to just about two for the cropped version and then goes up to a little more than two and a half for the longer version. So kind of a bit of a fabric hog, but with all this volume to be expected. Cute. Alright, next we have this little trench coat. Mrs. Jacket coat and belt. Um, double breasted lined trench coat has storm flaps, storm flaps. Or aren't they called gun flaps? Because that's where like the soldiers would rest their guns. And so you needed like extra protection there. What's a storm flap? Maybe it they're interchangeable pleated raglan sleeve and buckle belt. All right. Again, with the oversized zidness of it all, still happening. Gen Z just absolutely loves like nothing fitting, like close fitting at all. You've got this really nice notched collar with the buttonholes in it.  Here's a shorter version. Again, with the flaps, whether you call them storm flaps or gun flaps, you've got this little welt pocket with a flap. I think this sleeve might be a little bit flared too, which is kind of cute raglan sleeves, like they said. This flap here, maybe that's what the storm flap is. And the front one is called the gun flap. Look at this though, a buttoned vent. Lots of really, really, really interesting details here. I wish we could see the back of this short one. Okay, so the back of the short one does not have a vent at all. Also, the sleeve does not look very flared, but it does have two pieces, I think. Yeah, I mean, this is a pretty decent trench coat, something you might expect to see like in a Vogue pattern. But here we are with McCalls. Cute. Again, a little bit hard to assess fit, because it's just so oversized. Woblins, Gappardine, water repellent fabrics, and then you need some lining. And the notions, you really just need buttons and a buckle for your belt. And you don't even have to do the buckle because you can see they're not even buckling it. They're just tying it and not. So depending on how you would wear the belt, you may not even need the buckle. Yeah, taking a lot of fabric here up to five yards for the longer version in the biggest size. And then your lining, of course, wouldn't be similar to that. Also, a ton of interfacing, again, because that's how well-made coats are made. You have your fashion fabric. It's usually the whole thing is interfaced. Or at the very least, the entire facing would be interfaced. Maybe some area of the cuff, the belts, like all these different areas. So you need a ton of interfacing for it, too. And we do get some bust line and hip line measurements. So it's pretty much, well, actually, the hip line is a little bit narrower than the bust line. So it's kind of like an inverted trapezoid. Is that right? What's the one that's like a pyramid with the top chopped off? Four sides and two of them are at angles, whatever that one is. Because you can see pretty much through and through the hip line is one inch narrower than the bust line. So very full, lots of volume at the bust line. And then it comes down to be kind of close fitting through the hip. So those of you that are fuller-chested, I think you would absolutely love this. It would look like a million bucks on you. Really highlight your small waist and hip. Oh, puppy got excited. And then those of you that are Apple shapes also, I think that this would serve you well. Us pear-shaped people, it depends on how you wear it. I can't imagine myself wearing it necessarily closed, at least not to be like the most flattering way. Obviously to stay warm. But I can imagine myself like tying the belt around my back and leaving the front open. So you do get a little bit of that waist shaping open at the hip. So you can kind of see that there's a body there. So it just depends on how you style it. This is a Melissa Watson pattern. So you are going to get all of those fitting tips, tissue fitting tips. That's the Palmer plush like method. All right. Now we're moving into this cutie little dress. Where else did we see the accented collars recently? Was that butteric? Collared fit and flare dresses with cup sizes, bias cut skirt. Love that. Side seam and visible zipper. Love that. Long and short sleeves with gathered barrel cuff pointed in classic collars included. So I've talked about bias skirts before, but they just, when the fabric is cut on the bias, it just skims the body in such a beautiful way. It is very flattering on every single like body shape out there. It just hugs your curves in all the right places. I don't know how else to say it. Obviously your fabric, like if your fabric has stripes or any directional fabric at all, you will be able to tell that. So you need to find a print that's all over to kind of minimize that or find a print that really highlights that, that you really want to call attention to the stripes. The bodice itself, pretty simple. I think there are some princess seams here. Little keyhole with your collar detail. And then these are the sleeves with the barrel cuffs. There's the short sleeve version. Really sweet, right? And then this has like kind of like a rounded collar. There's another version where the collar is the same as the self fabric. Also really beautiful. Now this is a kind of high neck, long sleeve, you know, knee length or longer. So this is covering up a lot of your body. So just keep that in mind when you are picking your print.  All right. So obviously something happening here. Are those pleats in the shoulder? That's kind of interesting. I don't know if it's just too small through the, through the waist here. I don't know exactly what's happening with that. But you can see, look how beautiful the skirt is. Just the skirt is amazing. This, I don't know, I didn't notice it so much in the front that it was too small, but I guess it is. So it's writing up just a little bit. All right, line drawings. And no, there are not pleats. So I'm not entirely sure what is happening there. Ironed poorly.  Yeah, this, I don't know if the front is causing the back to do this or the back is just poorly drafted. I don't know what it's happening, but this is kind of a mess. And you don't normally see that on the backs. Normally you see all the issues on the front, but all right, there are line drawings. Cute dress though. Really cute dress. Maybe you just need to like size up in the waist. I don't know. Let's see if we get any finished measurements. Crate, shally, cotton blends and stable knits. Yeah, like a pontine, like a lightweight pontine would be really nice, especially with that bias drape. Invisible zipper, hook and eye, two size ranges, and then your fabric requirements. Yeah, two and a half yards ish, three yards for the longer one. And then you have the measurement at the bust line and hip line. So no waist measurement. I wonder if they use the wrong cup size on her. That might have caused the issue. It's hard, it's really hard to say, but 34 and a half inches up to 52 inches at the bust line, depending on your cup size. And then hip line measurement, 42 and a half up to 58. But it is kind of like an A-line skirt. So it is pretty roomy through the hip, design ease wise. All right, now we've got this little number. Another cutie, Mrs. Tunic and dress. This button down shirt dress has a v-neck drop shoulders and ruching out waist. Few options include sleeveless, long sleeves and shirt tail hem. The sewing pattern comes in tunic and above knee dress length. This I actually really like. And I don't normally tend to go for like super fitted, but I do love ruching. I always love ruching. All these little like gathers work to like kind of camouflage what's happening underneath them. So for this, it would be the midsection and because again voluminous at the bodice. So really roomy, lots of ease at the bust and a little bit more fitted in the hip. So you can imagine for a pear shape in a dress like this, it would give the illusion of an hourglass because you would already be a little bit wider through here.  And so it would be wide, skinny, wide. So here's the long sleeve version. It's a drop shoulder with a little sleeve sewn on. So not super complicated sleeve construction there. Just a little bit of funkiness with the button band, but you would check that for yourself, I'm assuming. There is the sleeveless version. And then that's the version she's wearing, right? I think that was the version she was wearing. Here's the back. The back has fish-eye darts. I can't tell you the last time I've seen a kind of shifty dress without fish-eye darts. I really feel like they've been adding them in a lot of these patterns, which makes me just so happy. So happy. She's wearing ABC. So these two are different. Oh, this must be the tunic link, which I could really see being adorable in a white, crisp, shirting. I think this, they use some kind of like either velvet or like micro whale corduroy, I'm not sure. But anything that you would make like a shirt dress out of, like denim would be really great. Chambray, obviously. You know, any of those like faux suede would be super cool. Yeah, I think they might have just kind of pulled this in a little bit too tight through her midsection, which is why you're getting a little bit of gaping at that one button. So, you know, add a little bit of wearing ease in there and it will look perfect. Here is the yardage fabric, I'm sorry, crepes, cotton blends, stable knits, and poplin. I don't know about crepe, but I can definitely see poplin. Like a lot of shirtings are poplins. Cotton blends, obviously, stable knits. And like I said, any of those like faux fabrics. Even like a stretch satin would be really good. Give you a little bit of extra like comfort because it stretches a little bit. And then you just need your buttons, two size ranges, fabric requirements under two yards for the tunic length. And then goes up to just about two and a half for the both of the dresses. The finished buttons measurements are 35 to 50 and a half. Hip line measurements are 37 to 52 and a half. So again, fitted at the hip line, very roomy at the bust line. Okay. Next up, whoa, hello. Pretty. Can I wear that to target? Knit keyhole cut outfit and flare dress has a pull on style with back neck closure. Okay. That's a little bit contradictory, but okay. And half, three-quarter and long-sleeve options. Right. Let's take a look. So we have a bodice. This one might be a little bit long. You can see how she's folding in on herself way up here. So maybe an inch and a half or so long, but that could also be the skirt kind of pulling on this fabric a little bit and kind of pulling it down. But this is the three-quarter sleeve. It is a satin sleeve. This does seem to be like way like falling off her shoulder, like almost like I bet she was pulling on it a lot, trying to keep it up or having to put some kind of like double-sided tape in there. I don't know if that's because this strap that inevitably goes through here and gets sewn in up here somewhere is just too long. I don't know. This seems weird to me how it's kind of falling off the shoulder like that. Like if you have a shoulder seam, that should be up on your shoulder. But nonetheless, this little, you know, wrap-around duma-hick is really pretty. I do like that a lot. And then you come down to the skirt. You've got a center front seam. It does seem like a side seam because her leg is sticking out, but I think they've just kind of like twisted the skirt around a little bit. Tons of volume in the skirt. This is probably some kind of jersey. It's really pretty. Yeah, you can see here the center front seam. They also did a little bit of top stitching here, too. Yeah, even the drawing, the opening here is narrower than on her. Oh, and then you can do color blocking. This, you have to be a little bit careful because you could end up in figure skater territory pretty easily. But yeah, that's really pretty. I can imagine it in all sorts of prints. Yeah, you can see here where her waistline is. So double check the length of the bodice for sure. But the back is really cool. How it's just kind of like a yoke. So that's fun. Pretty. I think they're going to do really well with this one. I think a lot of people will be lying that up. It's different, right? Like, we don't see that a lot. So they did say that it was, what did they say? Pull on with a back neck closure. So what I think that they mean by that, let's go back to the back. Oh, her hair's covering it. I think what they mean is you pull it on and then that like front strappy thing snaps onto the back or something. We can look at the yardage to see what the, so three hook and eyes they have you doing. They also have you finish the neckline with some elastic, which is really, really great finishing detail. I did that on the dress that has the sew along for knits for beginners. I did it in like that blue fabric with the yellow flowers. That has elastic in the neckline and it's one of my favorite most comfortable dresses. It doesn't ever gape. It stays nice and close to the body. I love using elastic in that way. All right. So 50% stretch that's kind of a lot. Interlock, cotton knit, velvet and jerseys. So I think, I don't, ITY and rayon might be higher percentage stretch like 75 or 100, but you can definitely find some that are a little bit more stable. Usually it's like they're thicker, they're a little more stable. So, but yeah, that 50% stretch is important. I don't think you could do it out of anything with less stress, less stretch, but you could go more probably and be fine. Okay. The two size ranges dress A, which is like the one with the color blocking is here. And then dress C, the one she's wearing has almost like a little more than four and a half yards of fabric. So again, you're going to have to find something that's probably on sale. Otherwise you're going to spend like a million dollars on this dress, which actually would be worth it because it is really pretty and fun and interesting and people would not believe that you made it. All right. Moving on away from dresses. Now we've got this skirt, this whole style right now is such a hot trend. I mean, it's very much pretty woman. I see a lot of pretty woman in this. I see a lot of Troop Beverly Hills before they go out into the wilderness.  So right on trend with this, kudos for that. But we're analyzing the skirt. It's not really much to see from here other than you know we've got these pleats in it. Okay. So this one is that looks a little bit more like a schoolgirl situation to me, but you have the shoot not a lap zipper. What's it called? When they when the seam allowances fold over and meet in the middle. I can't remember, but you have that whatever that's called zipper on the side. Nice deep waistband, a bunch of pleats. And then this one has some kind of trim going through the front. This I think is the version she made maybe or the one she's wearing. Yeah. I mean, there's not a lot to it. There's just one skirt, three links, and this one has some trim on it. It's just a pleated skirt.  Just looking at the line drawings and not the fabrication or anything like that. I bet you have something like this. So it doesn't even have like a pocket or anything. It's just very plain. So there's that. Cotton blends, gabardines, crepes, and satin. So I do think that this depends on the view you're making. Hers is probably a crepe. It could be some kind of like rayon poplin, maybe even a shally. This though, I do think is the heavier weight satin or cotton blends. I think these two you could probably make out of the more stable fabrics. If you start to make it one like this volume, this length and volume out of the stable fabrics, like not drapey fabrics, you run the risk of it just being very much like a tent and sticking out away from your body where you want it to kind of be a little bit closer. Short links, that's okay. The longer it gets though, it's you know, a little bit tent like. All right. So zipper and then optional ribbon. I'm trying to think of like a way that you could make that like, I don't know if the ribbon was like an afterthought or if they saw something somewhere where people were like, and ready to wear, where people were doing that and it looked cool. This doesn't feel like cool to me. I don't know anybody that would be like, yes, I definitely want a mini pleated skirt with a ribbon trim. But maybe if I saw it made up, I would feel differently. Fabric requirements are not much. The mini skirt is one and a half, one and three quarters for the knee length and two and a quarter for the full length. And then some interfacing for your waist band. And that's it. This is like, I'm surprised this is not like a learn to sew pattern. That's how easy this one is. All right. Now we have this little play suit, romper, jumpsuit, robe, and sash. Oh my God. Is this pajamas? Pajama romper. I made a pajama romper. I've made two of them. I actually love them. This romper and jumpsuit RV neck wide leg pull on robe has wide front bands, long sleeves and closes with sash for this lounge wear set use knit fabrics. Yeah. I mean, they're totally like getting the Kim Kardashian skims brand. She does all this like matchy knitwear lounge wear type of stuff and uses a whole bunch of different fabrics for it. She does have a rib knit line. I think she has something made from like Sherling or Sherpa. So if you could find like a lightweight one of those, that would be really cool. Lots of really like French terry, of course would be awesome. But this rib knit is beautiful, beautiful. And rib knit isn't super expensive. So that's good because you probably need a lot of fabric for this, but robe, jumpsuit, knit. I mean, how cute is that? How comfortable must that be? And I know they're selling it as a lounge wear set, but like maybe you put on a denim jacket over that. Come on now. It wouldn't be that bad. And then there's the robe picture. All right, here she is in her jumpsuit without anything covering it up. I love that they posted this because you can really see length wise. We've talked about that before in some of my fit videos, how this fits. So you can see how deep the V is. It pretty much is in line with her full bust here, but the arm size is not super, super low. So it looks like this whole, all the link through here is good. And then you go through to the crotch line. And I imagine that her crotch line is somewhere around here. So it might be a little, little bit long for her, but also, you know, you need that like wearing ease and you need to be able to sit down in it.  So you need to have a little bit of extra room there. And then you've got this beautiful leg line, beautifully finished. This is, this is really cute. And then just like I was saying, she threw on her pajamas and went out the door in her pajama robe. There's the back. Oh good. Here's the back of the jumpsuit. Yeah, the crotch line looks really good to me. Beautiful B in the back as well sits on the shoulder nice. This one looks really good, you guys. This inner inseam is right where it should be in the middle of the leg. Yeah, I'm not seeing a lot that's jumping out at me about this. So you get in and out of it because the V-necks are so wide. Did they make her matching scrunchie? No, but they should have. Cute. That one is also going to do really, really well for them, I think. So cute. So, so, so cute. I really, really like that one. All right, yardage wise, let's see how much it would take to make this. So 35% cross grain knit fabric. So rib knit, cotton knit, French terry, and lightweight sweater knits. Again, go look at the Skims loungewear. You'll get a lot of inspiration for, for fabrics. She uses stuff that you wouldn't normally think about as loungewear, but then when they put it all together, you're like, yeah, that does look really comfortable. And then you just need a little bit of quarter inch elastic for the romper and the jumpsuit. I'm hoping that that is also for the neckline again, because again, that, I love that detail. All the sizes are in one. Hallelujah. So you can grade from, you know, medium to two X if you need to, which is probably what I would need to do, or just make a whole bunch of them for everybody in your family. And you'd have everybody's size in one. So two and a quarter yards for the romper, the jumpsuit three and five eighths of the yard. Now that is quite a fabric hog. Your robe is three and a half. And then you need a bunch of fusible interfacing for the robe and sash. I'm imagining that's really like the front placket, maybe for the belts. So finished bust measurement for the rompers, close fitting, probably a little bit of negative ease there too, because we're working with kind of stretchy knits, but three and a 31 and a half up to 49. So I yeah, I would fall in the medium category there. And then the measurement at the hip line, I would fall into, well, maybe an extra large, and then take smaller seam allowances. So I would definitely have to grade up to sizes through the waist. So it's good that they're all in one, because the medium is usually in the smaller size range. And you know, that's what it's just like to be in between. And then the they gate the finished measurements for the robe, but really guys, I mean, it's just like an open front cardigan type of thing. So obviously, lots of ease and all that kind of stuff.  This one's good. Love this one. Okay, now we have this little number. Do we get the leggings too? Yeah, top and leggings. So this T and hoodie has a drop shoulder and asymmetric seams, perfect for color blocking and print mixing. Yes, I agree. Hoodie has long sleeves with banded hem. T has high low hem leggings have crossover V waistband. Do you guys remember when I was talking about that? When I did? Oh, God, the leggings in January, maybe for so together 21. I was giving like hacks and inspiration for the leggings and I talked about how everyone was doing the crossover. Anyways, all right, so just your regular old grown on sleeve t-shirt, nothing special there, but they did do this little color blocking thing. There's the little V. Everybody and their brother last fall and winter were buying up leggings that had this little detail here. I mean, very expensive leggings were all sold out because of this little V detail and somebody somewhere had a tutorial. If you go back to my leggings video, I think it'll talk about it or at least the sew together 21 video. Anyways, if you can't find it, just let me know. But yeah, somebody somewhere had a hack for how to do it. Not difficult. And then, okay, so then there's your hoodie with the little muted colors vary on trend.  So it's either too big through the knee or too tight through the calf, one of the two. I don't think you should be seeing any wrinkles on a legging. It should be negatives everywhere. So a little something funky there. All right. And then there we have it. Tee with the scoot back. There's your hoodie and your legging. Now they made their hoodie out of some kind of jersey or something, but I could totally see it out of much, much thicker fabric. Oh, I see why. Because the legging, so they're going to tell you 75% four-way stretch knits, athletic knits for the legging. And then if you want it to coordinate, obviously, you would use the same exact fabric somewhere in the hoodie. So then the rest of the fabrics would have to be that same weight. What I'll say, though, is that if you buy, like, let's say black or something, something that color that's like super easy to find in lots of different fabrics, you can still make the legging out of an athletic knit, but then you could do this hoodie out of like Sherpa or sweater knit or something a little bit more thicker and a little bit more substantial. And they would still like go together. So just think about it that way. I don't know. I don't love like a little droopy saggy hood. You know, like, especially this picture where it just is like, meh. It also like the point of a hoot is to keep you warm, right? Like I can't imagine, does this really keep you that warm? I don't know. But anyway, something to think about with the fabric. So this is a Mrs. And Women's. Yeah. So we've got three different size ranges here. And the top goes, gosh, that top. Oh, but the contrast too. So you've got this amount plus three quarters of a yard, plus up to seven eighths of a yard. So it could be as much as two, three yards of fabric for just for the top, depending on your size and contrasty stuff. If you don't do the contrast, it's half that. And then what is happening here? Oh, wait, just kidding.  You don't have to do the contrast. But here's the other one. This must be contrast. Well, I don't know what is happening. Top B. So this must be the hoodie. And then here's your leggings. That's complicated to look at. And then centimeters. That's all we have. All right. So there's that. If I'm going to make either one of the two lounge wear ones, it's going to be the jumpsuit one. Okay, now we've got a Mrs. Top. Oh, my, my, my, my. There's a lot that went wrong here. Okay. Drop shoulder wrap top with attached, wide wrap around sash has several design options, including a shawl collar, bell sleeve and long sleeve. This is going to just come down to fabric choice. I don't know if they just had some of this laying around. I just can't really see. I just, yeah, I don't know what else to say. So let's ignore the fabric, right? So we've got this little crossover here with gathers under the bust.  Like her, the fullness of her bust is through here. So I feel like that's where the gather should be. And then you have this attached sash that wraps around your body and ties in the back. So it creates this little like droopy thing. And then I don't know what they were thinking with these pants. Like I don't even really understand the pants at all. Bell sleeve. And then there is the shawl collar. This also looks like it's supposed to come down like past your belly button. Obviously it didn't on her. Like these line drawings look great. Like if, yeah, what is this? I mean, what are they doing to her? This poor girl. Like no clothes should fit like this. I know that this is not what they're selling. Like they're just going to sell the top. But come on now. Come on now. Get this girl some pants. And it's too bad too because I really do think that that top would look great if if so many other things were different. Like I love the little back ruffles in the back. I really like the sash. I just think that there's just nobody's going to be able to see past that. And look how cute the line drawings are. Darn. All right. Yardage. Crate, cotton blends, poplin and charmous. Totally agree. Single fold bias tape for A, which I think was the sleeveless one. So you would just use that to finish off the open arms. Let's see. Yardage wise, up to two and three quarters, depending on your size. All the sizes are in one. So you could blend really easily if you need to. And then yeah, two and three quarters, no matter what the, what the version is. Bus line measurement, super close fitting bus. So you got 33 and a half up to 51. And then I guess the waist is technically adjustable because you've got the the sash. Like I feel like this line here, this under bust line is what's sewn in. And then the rest of it you can kind of butts with a little bit if you need a little bit of extra room z's. All right. Now we've got a top polo knit pullover. How chic. Have half placket opening with collar and long sleeves. Beautifully sewn. This sewing pattern includes view options for banded hems, stitched hems, open placket and buttoned placket. Again, I love how they styled this with this little like neck tie. I was just trying to see how it was constructed. Whatever fabric this is, is similar to what you could make that lounge wear out of. But you've got your collar, there's no collar stand. And I think that these edges might be raw, I think. I can't zoom in anymore to be able to tell, but I think they might be raw, which listen, that's like a thousand times easier. So I'm here for that. Perfect length, nice looking arm. And I mean, look at how well sewn and pressed and everything that is. Really good job. Then there's the button one. So this would be made out of like a jersey or something. This one has the banded waist, which I'm not a huge fan of. Like I don't need any more volume here than I already have naturally, if you know what I'm saying. Yeah, super cute, super chic little jean with a loafer and then just the little neck tie, so cute.  Like I see that you tucked that. So maybe the sleeve is a little bit long. What did they do over here? Is this, I don't think this is supposed to be a grown on sleeve either. So maybe this shoulder line is a little bit long. Yeah, I don't know. Maybe it is supposed to hang off the sleeve a little bit. I think they're going for like a relaxed fit. So I think it should be somewhere in between. I think hers is a little bit long, but being like up on the shoulder would be too short too.  But yeah, cute simple little basic pattern that honestly, like I'm not sure that I have anything like that. It isn't a basic with a twist, though. It is just a basic, but the way they styled it gives it that twist that I like, I guess. All right, moderate stretch knits. So lightweight sweater knits, cotton knit, interlock, and velour. This must be some kind of sweater knit. Four buttons and then they broke up the size range on this one, which just kills me. So extra small to medium and then large to 2x. And then you would need two yards, just about to two. So just around two yards, your finished bust measurements are 33 and a half up to 51. And then this lower edge width kind of, kind of acts as a hip measurement. It's not, let's look at this one. It's not as like your hip measurement is way down here. So you actually want to measure yourself at your high hip. And then that's what you would compare for this lower edge width. So 38 inches to 55 and a half. And I can be like two inches narrower just by going from low hip to high hip. Like that's how dramatic my hip shape is. So it does make a difference for those of us that aren't curvy. All right, cute. All right, now we've got this little top knit v-neck button down sweater cardigan comes with multiple length options, sleeves and optional scalloped lace trim details. Puff sleeves love are, sorry, and long sleeves are also in this pack. Pack really? The links included are cropped hip and mid thigh use decorative buttons for a retro look. Okay, so this one definitely has like a vintage vibe, which isn't 100% my thing, especially with this lace collar.  So, but so and but if you're removing that and we're looking at this just as it is, then it's a really, it's one of those, I don't know, I'm just really into like the sweaters with the sleeve detail right now. And although this is like a super basic cardigan, the sleeve is just giving me so much to go on. Then you have this version that doesn't have a puff sleeve at all. This is just like a regular cardigan with a knit band, no big deal. And then here is the mid thigh version, kind of like a mini dress slash tunic, which you could easily just keep lengthening depending on how long you wanted it to be. I mean, she looks cool, you know, like, but if I went out in this, my friends would wonder what had happened to me. It's just not my style. And that's okay. Oh no, you can see the control top. Come on now, come on now. Was this the same girls with the bad pants before? Was it? All right. Yeah, fabric choice on this is everything. Let's see what they recommend. Oh, the line drawings we didn't see. Look how much better, right? I think it's the combination of the chunky sweater knit plus that particular lace that they used that I'm just, that's just not jiving with me. Also that it's contrast in color, you know what I mean? So maybe, I don't know, maybe I could be open to this done differently. All right. So 35% moderate stretch knit, sweater knit, rib knit, cotton blends, and velour. Man, they're really trying to push some velour, huh? Three buttons, scalloped lace, and then more buttons. All the sizes in one. One and a half to two yards ish. Lots of interfacing for that band where your buttons go. You could also do it without the buttons and just have it be like an open front cardigan, but you couldn't wear it like a top, which is essentially what she's done here. Okay. Measurement at bust line. Yeah, pretty roomy. 33 inches up to 50 and a half. And then your hip line measurement for the cardigan, which I guess is the pink one. Yeah. This hip line measurement 35 and a half up to 53. So it's not close. It's like semi-fitted. All right. I could be convinced for this one. All right. Now we've got a unisex pattern, which honestly, these are so great for the fall because like the holidays are coming up, you could literally just knock out an outfit for every single person you know. Unisex sweatshirt, our draw shoulder, long sleeve tops with contrast for color blocking, cuffed jogger pants, half elastic waistband with side pockets and banded hems, hoodie, has Kangaroo pocket. Okay. Didn't we just see this? First of all, didn't we just see this in Simplicity's fall, which is fine. Like they're the same company, but they're not. Okay. But also, haven't we seen this a thousand times too? Like this is nothing new. Come on, give us some unisex that's like not sweat suits. But I mean, it is cute. I do kind of like the contrast thing. Fine. Yeah. I mean, just nothing really exceptional here. We're just going to look at the yardage really quickly. Sweatshirt, fleece, fleece, minky, French terry. Yeah, I think Sherpa would work too. They do have two sizes here, which is annoying, but small to large and then extra large to 3x. So the 3x is going to take your hip line up to 62 inches. No word on the bust line. And then here's all your fabric requirements. All the contrasting, you have to add it all up again. So all right. Now we have, like why is this at the end? Why wasn't this with the other ones? Mrs. and Women's Flight Suit, basically. They're calling it a romper, a jumpsuit and a belt, but it's basically a flight suit. Collared button cover all romper and jumpsuit with back pleat utility romper. How many names are we going to come up with for this? And jumpsuits have drop shoulders with long sleeves and cuffs also includes a sleeveless view with a rolled up band side and patch pockets includes bell with D-rings. Yeah, I don't know. Are we still doing the flight suit thing? I know it was real big last fall. Was it sticking around? And I think that this is their women's model. So she is in the quote unquote plus size category. So we can see like on a body with curves what's happening here. She has her defined waist and then she has a belly protrusion. Amen, sister, me too. So these feel low. Like imagine if they were up here, right? And it didn't cause this much of a shaping situation, right? Don't think that'd be a little bit more flattering. They just feel like they're almost at her knee. So they feel a little bit low to me. Other than that though, like the crotch line looks pretty good. You know, really hard to tell what's happening through here because of the belt, but drop shoulder also again kind of hard to tell the sleeve length looks good. Pant leg length looks intentional. There it is with the rolled sleeve. That's really cute. Oh my gosh, please look at the little romper version. Hmm. Back looks. Let's look at the back. The pockets are always going to be an issue for me because they're so individual. Like these pockets need to be a lot more toward the center and much higher, like much higher. They need to be over here somewhere. They are just like hooting her butt is not even near there. It's like way over here.  And then you have your little pleat, which is nice. Nice little detail for utility suit, play suit, flight suit, all the words cover all. You do also, I saw it, but didn't think to say anything, but you do have your sleeve with the real placket, like a real working real placket. And you know that because of the sleeve scene here. I love the shorts version. Like I love it a lot. Like these are okay. They feel a little bit like been there done that, but that's something about this. I don't know. This romper is just giving me life right now. It's very similar to the jump suit that I just posted with like the same button placket, no waist seam, all that, but this one has the real sleeve and the collar. So it is a little bit different. Twill, denim, cotton blends, corduroy. Yeah. I can even see the shorts, like the romper version in like a faux leather. How cool would that be? Okay. Mrs. and Women's, A, B, and C, I don't know why they wrote that, 12. So a bunch of buttons and then a two ring, or I'm sorry, D ring, three pattern, three different size ranges. And then fabric requirements go up to, depending on the length of the version you're making and also the sleeve, it can be as much as four yards. So another kind of fabric hog. Bustline measurements are going to be pretty roomy, but the hip line measurements are kind of roomy too. Yeah, because I normally make a 20 in the hip and that would give me like a bunch, I don't know. Maybe it's like another one of those like semi fitted situations, fitted, but not, not oversized, whereas the bodice is soups oversized. People still saying soups? Okay, I think we're rounding out the end here.  So fun little craft stuff and costumes, which we do not review in the first impression video just because I don't know what I'm looking at. I don't know what I'm talking about, although I'll tell you that this girl's crotch is way too low in the blue. Not so bad, way too low. Okay, so yeah, that is it. That is, let's go to the look book, that is McCall's fall. What did you guys think? I actually quite enjoyed it. I thought that it was a good collection that appeals to the younger demographic that McCall's is clearly calling out to, but also those of us that are just young at heart. Like I could see lots of different ages, lots of different sizes, lots of different lifestyles wearing these patterns. This, I cannot forget this soon enough, like this needs to men in black be zapped from my mind, but some really good ones like this knit dress, the cape poncho thing, this even for a basic. Again, I could be convinced into this. They did really well with the knits, the loungewear, luxe loungewear for sure, a really, really exceptional jacket or coat. So a lot of good things happening here. Do we like that bag? I think I do. It's a little cottage core weird to have my, well my initials L and L always just looks so boring. I guess I could do it in a script anyways. I'm just babbling at this point. And these are all the costumes. Okay. Wow. Costume look book. Oh, then they threw in that script way back here. So yeah, I do think, I do think they'll do really well with this collection. It feels appropriate for the time in terms of like what people are doing. Something super fancy about it, but there are those kind of outfits that just in case something comes up, you're ready to go like this one. So that's what I think, but what do you think? Leave a comment in the comment section below this video. Let me know your thoughts on McCall's fall. But that is going to do it for me today, y'all. Thank you so much for watching and I will see you all very soon. Bye.


This will destroy the narcissist. This will hurt them. This will defeat them. When you ignore or reject the narcissist, it destroys them because they thrive off your attention and energy. It's like taking away their life support. They never thought that you would walk away from them. That's why they targeted you. But when you finally decided you've had enough, it destroys them. It destroys their delusional sense of significance and importance. And now they either have to make more of an effort with you or look for someone else, which is something they don't want to do. They don't want to put in extra effort. You're supposed to be easy for them to take advantage of. When you ignore or reject the narcissist, it destroys them because they never expected you to do that. But when you do, it bruises their ego. They wanted to be the ones to discard you so that they could play the victim, so that they could gain sympathy and support from other people and start a smear campaign against you. But when you discard them first, it ruins their plan. Now they don't have time to look for new supply. They don't have time to turn people against you. If you discard the narcissist first, they will never forget it. From that point on, any engagement you have with them will revolve around them trying to tear you down. When you try to hold the narcissist accountable for their actions, it destroys their delusional grandiose view of themselves. It causes a narcissist injury. Any boundaries, standards or expectations are like kryptonite to a narcissist. If you criticize anything they say or do, it will destroy them. They can't even take constructive criticism. They have to live in their fantasy world where they're perfect. But when you pop their fantasy bubble and pull them back into reality, it destroys them. The narcissist's false self cannot exist in reality because it isn't real. It's just something they've made up in their minds. And any time that you get them to reflect on anything to do with reality, it destroys them. When you finally move on with your life, when you're no longer thinking about them, when you begin focusing on yourself again, when it destroys the narcissist, they can see that you're doing better without them. And that is when they will pop up in your life again. They will try to hoover you because they can't stand to see you being happy without them. Misery loves company. They hate to suffer in silence.  And that's the only reason why they come back in an attempt to make you miserable just like them. They can't stand to see you moving on and being happy without them because they know that is something they will never get to experience. They will never be happy without you. But it's like they have this sixth sense. They just know when you're feeling better. They know when you're doing better without them. And that's when they'll come back. And try to bring you back down to their level again because seeing you moving on destroys them. The narcissist will never tell you how much it hurt when you ignored or rejected them. They will never tell you how much it hurts when you criticize them.  But just look at their behavior. Look at how they react to you.  How they come back as soon as they think that you've moved on and you're happy without them. That will tell you everything you need to know. That will tell you just how much this destroys them. But they will never tell you how it makes them feel. They will still try to move on with another source of supply. They will still be lucky for something that they're never going to find. The perfect man or woman. Someone to finally make them happy. Something to finally make them satisfied with their lives. But they will never find what they are looking for. What destroys a narcissist more than anything? It's no longer being significant or relevant to you. When you forget that they even exist, narcissists need attention. They need admiration and praise. And when you forget about them, it completely destroys them. It triggers them to reflect on how maybe they're not as important as they thought they were. And this is when they will do whatever they can to fight for their significance. They will fight to remain relevant in your life again. They will hoover you. They will try to get you to notice them. They will engage in attention-seeking behavior. Whatever it takes to be something significant or relevant to you. But once you've cut the energy that accords to them, they will know that it's too late. They will sense it. And then they'll disappear. They'll go quiet because they know that they don't belong in your life anymore. They know that they're not relevant. And there is nothing that destroys a narcissist more than that. Thank you for watching and I'll talk to you soon.


So thank you very much for the opportunity. It's a great honour and a privilege being asked to address you during the opening session of your conference, of what we'll know that be a very exciting and fruitful conference. And a lot of important issues have already been raised by your opening speakers today. I hope that through my presentation, I will be able to contribute to your future success, particularly at a time of great transformational changes that have taken place within the CGR. COVID-19 and the one CGR change agenda have already created a considerable amount of anxiety and fear of the unknown. And this is absolutely understandable. So it is very important that we react to this and that we do this in a productive and considered way. Change and uncertainty also provide opportunities for future success. I decided my talk today to facilitate such success. Given that I only have 15 minutes, I want to jump right into it and skip a lot of the preliminary issues. I want to talk to you today about how we can create a culture of high performance under those environments. I want to share with you some strategies that we might be able to use in order to make a boundary organisation such as the CGR even more successful. So what is it that actually drives success within the CGR? I could think of hundreds of initiatives over the last 49 years that would demonstrate that. But what all of those initiatives have in common is that they all created what is called social capital. Social capital is really the cornerstone of real innovation and creating social capital requires high performance. And I can think of four key conditions that need to be satisfied for such high performance to occur. Firstly, the organisational culture needs to support the basic needs of his people. Secondly, the scientific knowledge that the organisation generates needs to match the problem domain. And Alexander actually touched on that in his opening remarks. Thirdly, the work needs to compel action. So something needs to follow directly as a consequence of that work. And fourthly, the scientific knowledge needs to be evidently of very high quality. Now let me skip through those quickly. The first one, the organisational culture needs to support the basic needs of his people. And I want to remind you of Maslow's hierarchy of needs. Most of you would have heard about that. And what I'm really talking about here is the top end of that pyramid. Obviously physiological needs, safety, emotional needs need to be met for people to be functional. But in order to perform at their best and do the best science possible, they also need to need esteem and they need self-actualisation. Under esteem, we have respect, we have status, we have recognition, strength, freedom. And under self-actualisation, we have the desire to become the best that one can be. And that requires effort on the individual as well as on the organisation. And as we are going through that transformational change within the CG, I would appeal to everybody who is there and helps to shape that future that they keep that in mind because we need to work together, we need the partnerships that Alexander has already referred to. The second point is matching the scientific knowledge with the nature of the problem. LMB and CERVITS have defined a three-level category, a simple model that allows you to look at the different types of science that we can do. And traditionally, the CG has been very good at level one science. Level one technologies that have a very clear and deterministic cause and effect that are strongly disciplinary based, that provide solutions to very clearly defined goals and where the decision-making is about the control of the system, where it solves well-defined problems with obvious outcomes. However, there are many issues that we as scientists need to work on that are not quite as clearly defined, not quite as simple. So as the systems become more complex, we move to a level two where cause and effect becomes a bit more blurred. A lot of the properties are emergent. The research goals are a lot more interdisciplinary, and we are dealing with systems to create options for addressing often contended goals. The decision-making becomes more adaptive, and we need to find ways to manage reasonably well-understood situations. What gets really complicated is when we move to level three. And at level three problems are characterized by often unforeseeable shifts with no clearly definable boundaries. The research goals have become very transdisciplinary, and it's often much more about designing governance systems that are capable of consensus on ill-defined and contended goals in support of a common vision. The decision-making is much more about consensus-seeking and developing robust institutional responses that anticipate future conditions despite persistent deep uncertainty. Let me give you a few concrete examples. Under level one, we could imagine a problem like improving border use efficiency on farms through the introduction of a high-yielding, more efficient variety. Very much sort of the bread-and-butter stuff that the CG's been doing for a long time been doing very well. Under level two, we could imagine that we want to optimize the use of limited water resources across an enterprise of farming operations. And here it becomes already clear that we are actually dealing with something that is a little bit more morphe where the actual structure of the farm becomes critically important, but also where the skills of the operators become important in terms of which optimization pathway you might want to take. It gets really problematic when we move up to level three. And here we could think of introducing irrigation on a large scale as a transformational technology that will alter not only the farming operations but the entire fabric of a rural community or of a region. Examples that we can think of at that level three are, for instance, the issues that we're dealing with with climate change. Now, the problem that we often create, and that is why we need to match our scientific knowledge with the nature of the problem, we're dealing with level three type issues, but we are trying to solve them using level one technologies. And once we have these sorts of level confusions, then the problems become often even more enhanced. And everybody gets dissatisfied because we're actually talking cross purposes. So when can science actually compel action? And that's the third point. We can think of that as two axes. On the x-axis, we have value consensus. On the y-axis, we have uncertainty. Now, ideally, we want to have high value consensus and low uncertainty. In those cases, science can be used to select the preferred options. There's clear agreement about what the options are, why action should be taken, and what the best cause of action is. And this is typically the space in which we operate when we have level one type problems and level one type technologies. There are quite a few examples for these sorts of things. On the other end of the extreme, we have low value consensus and high uncertainty. And under those situations, science is often used to justify divergent approaches. And more science can lead to an increased number of contented options and paralyze the decision-making process. It doesn't have to be like that, but it is often the case, particularly when they're not careful enough and think about the nature of the problem and the type of science that is actually needed to solve it. I don't have enough time to talk about the other two quadrants in that diagram, but I encourage you to have a look at the presentation afterwards. So let me get to the fourth point, ensuring high quality research. And a lot of you are probably familiar with the word that the ISPC and subsequently the ISDC has done with many of the scientists throughout the CGAR on developing that framework. I believe that some of you might have even participated in the workshops that we ran towards three years ago when we first started talking about it. This framework is now available for use right across the CGAR. And in fact, it's used for many other purposes as well because it lends itself to be adapted to a whole range of purposes. And there are really four lenses that characterize that quality of research for development. The first one is relevance. The second one, scientific credibility. The third one, legitimacy. And the fourth one, effectiveness. And I provided you with a web link where you can download some of those documents. But I quickly want to go through these four lenses. So relevance really refers to the importance, the significance and the usefulness of the research objectives and the processes and the findings to the problem context and to society. And that incorporates a strategic stakeholder engagement along the entire agricultural research for development continuum. It also demands that original and societally relevant research is well aligned to international, national and regional priorities. It does recognize the importance of public goods. And again, that's an issue that's already come up earlier today. Scientific credibility. Very important component. In the past, that was often the only component that people considered when they looked at research quality. Scientific credibility requires that the research findings are robust and that the sources of the knowledge be dependable and sound. It includes a very clear demonstration that the data used are accurate, that the methods used are fit for purpose and that findings are clearly presented and logically interpreted. Legitimacy recognizes the importance of good scientific practice such as peer review, for instance. It also means that we have to look very carefully at how we conduct the research process and ensure that it is absolutely transparent and that the people need to be involved in the process are appropriately involved in it. This touches then on the next point which is legitimacy. And legitimacy means that the research process must be fair and ethical and it must be perceived as such. And that encompasses the ethical and the fair representation of everybody involved as well as the consideration of the interests and perspectives of the intended users. It requires transparency, sound management of potential conflicts of interest, recognition of the responsibilities that go with public funding and a very genuine involvement of partners in the co-design and the recognition of the partner's contribution. And finally, we need the effectiveness. And effectiveness means that the research generates knowledge, products and or services that actually lead to innovations and provide the solutions. And it implies that the research is designed, implemented and positioned for use within a dynamic theory of change, that it has competent leadership including clear elements of capacity building as the research progresses and a supportive and enabling environment to translate knowledge into action and to help to generate the desired outcomes. I touched on quite a few principles that I believe are very important for the future success of the whole of the CG but particularly of a program like FDA that is by its very nature addressing a lot of the level three problems that I alluded to early on today. I hope that you can use some of those principles to your advantage and to create a very important scientific knowledge that we need in order to solve many of those problems that were already raised in the opening session today. Thank you very much.