Welcome back folks. Dow. Dow is up 7, Nasdaq's down 28, S&Ps are off 7.5. Let's go over to our man, Mr. Basil Chapman, as we do each and every Tuesday at 20 past the first hour. Don't forget, folks, Basil does an outstanding show here every trading day, 12 to 1 Eastern Standard Time. Also has a great newsletter, the opening call. The way you get the opening call, you can go over to our website at TFNN and you are going to see it right under featured content. Open a call by our man, Mr. Basil Chapman. You hit that button and you hit subscribe. You can get the opening call for one month for $128. You can get it for six months for $5.95, which is a savings of $173. You can get it for a year for $995, which is a savings of $541. And the bottom line, they all come with a 30-day money-back guarantee. Everything to gain, nothing to lose, folks. Basil Chapman, what's going on? Hi, Tom. How are you? Welcome back. Thank you so much and thank you for doing the shows. I really appreciate it, man. My pleasure. Do you have a good time? Oh, I had a blast. There's no doubt, folks, when you just take a few days off, it makes such a difference, man. And you forget. I forget that it makes such a difference. Right. You notice when you get back, right? You really do. It takes a few days. It took me to Wednesday to really lay back. Really? Well, this is the first full week of no rain that I can recall, so I hope you had a really good time. Yeah, we did. We did. It was beautiful, man. It was beautiful. Very nice. So, what do we got here? We're looking at the Dow, as always, on the left side charts. The dating in the middle is the weekly and on the right is the monthly. And this little panel with these three timeframes tells us a lot because let me just do this to show new people to my work. In the Chapman Way methodology, we try to identify the lowest low bar. We count each higher peak. We alphabetize them. Peak A, then peak B higher. Peak C is higher than B and peak D is higher than C. Yeah. And it can go higher to E, F and G. But it's at D that other things can happen. I like to think of the market as just having three particular directional and moves, and it's just a straight line up or down. Or it's a cup formation, an arch formation where you go from the left side, come up and then you come back and retest it.  You come back to the high and you test that. And then there's a mix, which is just the same patterns again. I do it in red to say that if you break the left side low, you could go quite a bit lower. If you break the right side high and the green one, the inverted H, then you can go higher. So now we'll see how this is put into practice. I like your new colors there. Good. Yeah. So it just makes it easier to read. Yeah, no, it looks great. So now what we've got, we've got this huge cup. Remember we spoke about this back on the 22nd of April with subscribers. We went short the Dow. It went just slightly high and then it turned down at peak D. It ran down to the bottom of 24,701. On the third, we went long, took the short positions off. And just a slight position off we took on the way up. We were waiting for leg D. We're still in leg D, but this is where a lot of things can happen. As I said, the fourth highest peak is where we've got to be a little bit careful. But the mag D, the moving average convergence divergence, this particular tool, we call it indicator right here, has made an M shaped pattern and it's still very strong. And the stochastic's bounced all the way up to 97%. So that's very strong. And so that's suggesting to me that on the short term, unless there is a real bad new series of events that really pushes the market down, sustains the move down, there's pretty good support 200 to 400 points down if we do start down right here. And on the upside, I see the 27,500 is very strong resistance, but at 27,390, the high today was 27,398. That's kind of the area that's going to be very important in the near term. Then when you get to the weekly chart, you can see that the mag D strong stochastic is up at 95% for a weekly chart. That's very good. So that says as well that you've got a lot of support going to the 27,000 or even 26,000, 670s with the moving averages. So, so far I'm looking at this and I'm saying we could have a near term pullback, but I haven't got those, those ducks are not all in order. And a monthly chart at nine months down from the 22,018 high turns around, it runs up to a new all-time high in October of 2018, goes from 26,618 to 26,951. Then it has the big plunger to the December low of 21,012. To me, this is a brand new move and it's very good because it's got nine months to the left, nine months to the right. This is the ninth month. And it's in leg C, so so far this is good.  So that means if it does go to 27,500, it really has broken a lot of key resistance levels. So far, like it all, we've got, excuse me, we've got about a 21% gain in our, the long position that we have in the Dow. We've got very nice gains in some of the other indices. Most importantly, I've been talking about the IAI. So this is one that you can use more as a tool than anything else. We are long, but there's very little volume so you have to have a lot of confidence. And this is the broker dealer index. Yes. And it's gone and I've been talking for some time on my show and for subscribers to say that if the IAA, which was trading in the 63, 62 area, we're long from 60. It's at 65.91. And I said, if it gets to the 65s and then can treat the 63 area, 62, where it was a resistance, treated as support, that's going to start to tell me that yes, people are in fact going into stocks more than ever before. And this is my reading of it. And that means that the broker index is becoming more of an indicator for me, a positive indicator. And I like it just as a tool, even though, as I say, we are long. Sure. One can use it because it's giving a lot of information. We are long Schwab. And this had a nice break to the upside today at 41.61. It did. And you know what's amazing about Schwab, Basil, is that when they come out their numbers, folks, the numbers are fine. But the thing was a mind blow when I heard, they opened 400,000 accounts. I never knew that. And like they're already huge. It's like 400,000 accounts. It's like, oh my God. Half a million. So to me, this is saying that as the market moves, the Dow goes into, because they always talk about the Dow. Yes. And the fee was just 500. The Dow is the one that they talk about. As it goes to the 27,000s, a lot of people are going to say, you know, I've been listening to all this negative talk and everything. Don, the market's really just moved. This is a good sign. So I think that more and more people will become active in the market. Because this is the longest bull market I've ever known. I believe it's the longest one. It's the longest streak without, you know, yeah, a major pullback. That's for sure. But it's the longest one that I've ever not heard people talking about. Oh, I see what you're saying. Okay, cool. All right. So your own vacation. Did anybody, once they knew what you did, did anybody ask you for tips to tell you how great they're doing in the market? Didn't talk about the market? No, no. No. It's the quietest, stealth bull market I've ever known. So to me, that's also a very bullish sign looking out. Yeah. But in the meantime, just short of term, I think you've got to be a little bit careful here. Yeah. Folks, the way you get Basil's newsletter, come over to our website at TFNN. You're going to see right under featured content. You're going to see our man, Mr. Basil Chapman. You're going to see the opening call. You hit subscribe. You can get it for one month, six months, a year. Check it out. Everything to win, nothing to lose. Basil, you have a great one, safe one. Of course, we look forward to the program tomorrow. Thank you very much, Tom. Good to have you back. Thanks. Great to be back. Stay right there, folks. Come right back. Our phone number is<PHONE_NUMBER>. Come right back.


Thank you guys so much for joining us if it's your first time or rejoining us if you just took a little break from the winter series we're excited to be back here for the spring horse grazing management series with NDSU extension. My name is Mary Keena on the livestock environmental management specialist at the Carrington Research Extension Center, and you'll be hearing from me next week and in a couple weeks. Today we have with us Kevin Cervic who is our range specialist for NDSU extension he's also the director of the Central Grasslands Research Extension Center. So Kevin's going to go over horse grazing management with us today. We also have Rachel Wald. She's our egg and natural resource extension agent in McHenry County and Paige Brummond who is our egg and natural resource extension agent in Ward County. So those two are going to supplement some of the things that Kevin's talking about with some more boots on the ground kind of action that you can take. And with that, we will get rolling I'm going to turn it over to Kevin and, and we'll go ahead. This is Mary and it's it is nice to be back on this equine series. It's a bit of, I want to say it's been a nice day here at Central Grasslands which were near street or North Dakota, because we had a quarter inch of rain this morning. And so that in itself is a celebration of the day so we're going to talk about grazing management as it relates to horses and the truth is, it doesn't matter what species you're grazing grazing management is an encompassing concept that fits whether it's horses or cattle or sheep or whatever the difference is you know that horses tend to graze a little bit differently. But we'll kind of cover some concepts here and, and we'll get into some different topic areas as well. Some of the topics we've covered today is obviously a little bit of grazing management but we'll also cover some of the key species that you may find on your on your pastures and you know when it comes to horses we almost typically see common types of grasses in these horse pastures and so we'll talk about some of those grasses to give you a feel for nutritional quality palatability and how they may fit into your grazing program that we're going to hit some topics on management that relates to fertilizing will hit some toxic plants. Just so you get a feel for if you have these in your areas to look for and what to do in case you do have them. If you're looking to see down the pasture will talk about some seed mixes, where you can get that seed from. And then we'll end on this side of the story on on on that that how to manage those grasslands once you see them. Alright, so let's talk about types of grasses. Next, and we'll end with what kind of cover these we talked a little bit ago on fertilizing potential toxic plants or where to plant these grasses. Next, Rachel. So I'm going to start with probably the most common grass that we see in a lot of our pastures in North Dakota, especially horse pastures is smooth broamgrass. Some of you may actually have metal broamgrass in your mixes. The bro grasses are my favorite mixes to put in for horses because horses really like broamgrass, it stays palatable for them much of the season. So it's high quality.  And so it's commonly you'll see these pastures. It's also a common grass that we'll see in our ditches so if you're putting up ditch haze this also fits very well. Next. And this is just a picture of a mature broamgrass to your right and so make those of you to see these blowing in the wind in the ditches and your pastures it's a very broad headed plant. When it gets to this phase it tends to be a little less less palatable and lower in quality and so if you are putting a pay at these stages, especially if you have a lactating mare, or you have some sure horses that you're actually using quite a bit. You may need to supplement some protein with these feeds. Next. Another one we see common throughout North Dakota is Kentucky bluegrass this is true whether you're North Dakota South Dakota Minnesota, whether it was planted in a mix, or it's invaded your broamgrass fields. It's now become common in most of our pastures. It's a much lower growing plant, but it is very palatable horses really do like bluegrass, especially when it's green and lush and in the immature stage. In the ecology business we tend to look at this grass as an invader, because it tends to invade our native prairies, but in terms of horses this is a really good feed for horses. Like broamgrass when it becomes mature, it becomes a little less palatable and also loses the quality and so protein tends to be an issue when this grass starts to mature out. Next. Another thing I'm going to talk about is Crestia wheatgrass and this is more of a grass we see in the western Dakotas, eastern Montana, eastern Wyoming, very common in horse pastures, when I call West River. It does well in the drier climate so if you're in a precip zone of 14 inches or less we tend to go with the Crested over the broams. When horses do like it, when it's in the immature stage, they do not like it when it's in the stage we see in this picture here, it starts to head out. And so in this phase we tend to see a lot of it put up for hay versus grazing and almost always is used in cattle feed. And so we call it a wolf plant at this stage and it's just because it has a poor palatability for horses. Next. What I have here is quack grass and I did lump intermediate wheatgrass in this mix we'll call them the wheat grasses on the average horses. Like wheatgrass but they don't really, you know, prefer it over a bromagross or over a bluegrass. Most of our wheat grasses are typically seen in hay mixes. Especially if you do a CRP mix or you're doing a CD mix for horses, you'll see the intermediate wheatgrass and slender wheatgrass put in this mix. Where you have invaded pastures if you have a bromagross field or a bluegrass field, that's a little bit salty. They tend to get invaded with quack grass, which I have in this picture here is quack grass. Horses absolutely love quack grass in this phase, and it's a very good high quality feed. When it enters out, it tends to become less palatable, and you'll get some issues in the next slide, Rachel. You'll see the picture here of quack where it can get a little bit coarse. So the last one we really have and you'll see this more in the western half of the Dakotas is native pasture. When we get east, most of our pastures have been seeded for horses. So if you're in eastern Dakotas, Minnesota, Iowa, you almost always will see a seeded pasture. This is an eastern part of the state, so we'll see native pasture used for horses. It's a very good, high quality feed. It provides year-round grazing because of the mixes of species in an integrated grass mix, and they're also very palatable. They tend to be a little bit lower in production compared to what I call an introduced or improved species like a metal brome or an intermediate wheatgrass, but they tend to retain quality better later in the season. So you can put these in about any different soil type and get your mixes to fit very well. Next slide, please. The nice thing about native range is it is actually the most aesthetic value. Whenever you see the pictures of horses, you're riding a horse across rangelands, it's always a very scenic area. And one of our speakers today, Paige, has some beautiful country up north of Mina where she gets a chance to ride, and she's actually on rangeland. So it gives you an aesthetic value that you can use to enjoy your horse on rangelands besides just a feed base. So next. So one of the management scenarios you can do to improve the tonnage of your forges on those pastures is fertilizing. And so whether you have a crested or a brome field or even an orchard grass field. If you call it from Iowa and you got a Timothy field, they will always be deficient of fertility. Once they get to be about three to five years of age. And so we highly recommend fertilizing these stands to one, keep them healthy and vigorous, but to also increase the tonnage on these stands this is a picture of a typical bluegrass stand that's fertilized in the top, unfertilized in the bottom. And you can see there's quite a difference and there's not like greenness, but you'll see a difference in color. You'll see a difference in quality when you fertilize these fields, they tend to be higher in quality as well. Next slide. And so this is actually a bromagra field taken in South Dakota, you can see the strips, the test strip on the right is fertilized. The control is not fertilized. So you can see how it grows much more aggressively after a fertilizer program, you get a greener color. And so on the average, we tend to produce about 50% more biomass when you fertilize versus not fertilize. And if you haven't fertilized in over five years or more, you can tend to double your production by the second year of fertilizing. So it's just a great practice to increase your quality and tonnage on that hay field or on that grazing field. Next. So when we look at fertilizing, these are some examples, Rod, put fertilizer down this. Brome, crested wheatgrass, intermediate wheatgrass, Timothy, orchard grass, any pasture that's been seeded will not have that symbiotic relationship as we say with the soil microbes and lack what's called a fast nutrient soil flow. Do not fertilize native pastures. Native pastures do not become deficient of nitrogen because of the microbial populations with the native pastures. If you fertilize native pastures, they will change and shift to mainly in our country of bluegrass pasture. So only on these improved pastures. So, and so you can see where the benefit will be in terms of production and quality. Next. So what, what to fertilize with and you can go next Rachel so the most common fertilizer will use is nitrogen. If you go to a sales person and they and you tell me what about fertilizer for your pasture, they're going to try and sell you nitrogen phosphorus and potassium. The only one that actually adds tonnage or production is nitrogen. And so it is the only one that I ever recommend on domestic pastures. If you're in K, you won't be able to pay for it in terms of tonnage, but you might pay for it in terms of different mineral contents within the grasses. But for me, nitrogen is your limiting factor in the western half of the Dakotas, even in the Montana Wyoming we do about 40 to 60 pounds per acre of actual nitrogen. And after you do it back to back years we do it every other year in the eastern Dakotas and in Minnesota and Iowa, we go about 60 to 80 pounds of nitrogen that's actual nitrogen. Every for the first two years and once you get into a program it's every other year. Next. And so when do you fertilize, we are really reaching probably what I call the end time of fertilizing in the northern plains so late April to mid May is preferred and if you give if I gave you the option I would tell you to fertilize as early as possible. So you can do it during cooler climates, and when the moisture is there to give that benefit. The most common fertilizer we use is urea. It is straight nitrogen so it's 46% nitrogen so 100 pounds of urea will have 46 pounds of nitrogen.  And these need about a quarter inch of moisture to get them to dissolve and put into the soil. Once in the soil, you start to see the activity from that benefit. Next. So we're going to talk about the timing so if you do fertilize. Now let's say we get into mid manor fertilizer and it's above 70 degrees. It will volatilize out. So you want to reduce that impact of volatilization so try and do it when it's cooler climates. Thanks. Next. So, let's talk about weeds and it's rarely, I get a chance to go into a horse pasture where there's not some weeds in those pastures and so one of the more common ones you'll see throughout the Dakotas in Minnesota is horseweed and this is an annual weed that we'll see and annuals tend to be a problem when you overgraze your pastures. Next. This is a common, I think give you the flower here but this is dandelion. We see dandelion common in a lot of our horse pastures, especially in the eastern half of the Dakotas into Minnesota. On the average I don't worry about it until it becomes a visually, you know, a quarter of the stand and then I'm going to look at a herbicide treatment to control the dandelions. Next. So this is a very young Canada thistle and I'll give the next picture to Rachel. Canada thistle is common in a lot of our horse pastures. Another one you'll see is absent wormwood. Whenever you see noxious weeds like these coming in. That tells me that the pasture's probably been a history of overgrazing so that niche is now there in the soil profile to capture those seeds and to get some invasion from these weeds. Next. I'm going to talk about toxic weeds and I'm going to focus primarily on the trees today. Next. And so I did a story on toxic toxicity in horses on tree and trees about three months ago, and probably the most common one we see are the maple trees, whether it's a box elder tree and actual maple, the leaves are toxic to horses. They have to consume a fair amount of it to have issues, but it takes about a three pounds of ingestion per thousand pounds of weight can be deadly in horses. So if you do have trees that border your fences or border your pastures and something you need to think about when these trees are when these leaves are to fall off the leaves, or if you're getting too many in there and other horses consuming it. On the average they will not eat many leaves if there's plenty of grass in those pastures. You tend to see severe anemia, depression and increased breathing with maple toxicity. In my career I've seen two of this happen where the horses actually died from maple tree toxicity. Next slide. And so another one we'll see, especially if you have trees within your area like a tree grow is choke cherries. We all like to go get choke cherries and make some choke cherry jam, but choke cherries can be very toxic to horses and in fact they're toxic to almost all classes of livestock, especially when the leaves are stressed or wilted. The bark can be somewhat toxic, but it's primarily the leaves. And what you have here is cyanide toxicity, which is very deadly to any animal as well as humans. Next slide. So this is a picture of the flowers of choke cherry. Next. And then some of the symptoms you'll look at with death. For death usually occurs as flared nostrils. So you'll see them, they'll be breathing hard. Almost like if you're familiar with heaves and horses, you'll see similar that flaring of the nostrils with choke cherry toxicity. So they're labored in breathing lack of coordination and then trembling and agitation. So this is something to look for and you need to get them off these, if these are problems. Other toxic plants that we'll see that are not palatable to horses, but you'll hear instance where horses become sick from these plants. So horse tail. Rachel will show horse tail first. And then we'll look at probably one that gets the most talk about is local weed. Next. Oh, there's no pictures. So local weed is one that get it. It's one of the broadleafs that horses tend to you have individuals that will pick it out.  And so everything looks big to them. So they tend to tend to run around and they're going to local. So it's a common one you will see milk weeds are very common in the northern plains. And you'll see horses pick on the leaves on this one, but normally they won't eat it. If you're in the western Dakotas, even in the Minnesota we have oak trees, both the acorns and the leaves can be toxic late in the season. If the grass is not short, you typically will not have a problem. And then poison hemlock and ragwarts are also can be common very deadly, but oftentimes you rarely ever consumed next. And so we also have nitrate accumulators. And these are basically plants that have nitrates in them that have horses consume it can have an effect on nitrate toxicity levels. Horses tend to not die from nitrate toxicity, but they'll run a very high fever.  I've seen nitrate toxicity in horses a couple times. They almost always run a high fever. Death can follow, but it is pretty rare. And so common plants that you'll see is Kosha Russian thistle in lamb's quarter. These are common in pastures that tend to be overgrazed. And you can see the story I'm coming with here. Keep your pastures healthy. And usually annuals and toxic plants are not an issue. If you start to get areas of overgrazing, these annuals will come in. And then you have the issues. Next. So the last thing I want to talk about, and obviously it'll be here for questions, but is you're looking to seed a new pasture, or let's say you have a pasture that's got some bare ground in it and you want to oversee that pasture. There are some options you can look at. Where do you get seed? You know, for me, in North Dakota in particular, I usually call my local dealer. I'll call into the local town if I'm living near New Rockford, I'll call my dealer in New Rockford, or I could call anywhere you want that sells seed and they'll find most of these seeds for you. There's also larger seed companies in the Dakotas. South Dakota, my example here is just Agassi seed, but there's a number of companies that have access to my seed. So let's go to the next slide. And we'll talk about what I call are my favorite mixes for horses. Probably my favorite grass, especially in North Dakota, is metal brome grass. And especially metal brome with a little bit of alfalfa in that stand, which then keeps the nitrogen flowing in that plant, is a very nice quality feed for horses, whether you graze it or hey it. As we get into the South part of the state, into Minnesota, you'll see orchard grass also commonly used. I don't recommend orchard grass in most North Dakota because it winter kills out. But if you're in South Dakota or Minnesota, especially Southern half, orchard grass can replace metal brome. The beauty of both those species is they regrow really well. So in a grazing system where you rotate, you can get good grazing use, get regrowth and come back and graze that plant. My second choice is the intermediate wheat grasses or pavescent wheat grass mixes. They're not quite as palatable as the metal brome, but they do very well in our climate, even in our drier climates. And they put it right. When you get to that boot stage, they also make really good hay. The trick is you got to get it up before you go to seed or the quality or the palatability really drops. And that's true if you're grazing it as well. And the last one, if you're in the Western Dakotas and into Montana, you know, across your wheat grass, alfalfa mix is a really good option for horses. And I do like alfalfa because for the most part, horses don't blow. But if you had about 10 to 20% of the stand alfalfa and like any of the other animals, they almost always pick the grass over the alfalfa when they're grazing. It gives you a way to keep nitrogen flowing in that system. And so it's a nice mix for horses. Next. And so the best time to see these mixes is right now. If you need to do any kind of seeding early April to late May is that window of opportunity. I like to put my seed in right about now or end of April, early May. I know this year has been pretty dry. So timing will be more critical and hitting the range when you put it in. So you can time that with the future rain events to do that. The second best time period is a dormant seeding or we call it dormant seeding. And that's mid October to early November. You basically want to seed it, but you don't want to germinate in the fall. And you want to germinate the following spring. That's why it's called a dormant seeding. It's very successful and almost as good as the spring seedings. It's just a matter of when you can get it in. Next. And so let's talk about this overseeding. And even I have done this in my pastures is I've overseeded when I get my pastures are about 25 years of age. So I'm seeing some age issue with my grasses. So I'm going to go in there on the bare spots and broadcast it in and then I'll drag it in. If you get drilled in, it's even better. But it's an option you can do to kind of get more production out of it. If over grazing is your primary reason, you're going to have to still drop back on that grazing pressure, especially if you want to seed it and get some growth before you put the horses in. If you need about, you know, I would say about four months of growth for that grass, get enough root structure so it can withstand the grazing pressure. And putting on your pastures, I like to seed a like species. So if you have a brome grass field seed with brome, you have a crested field seed with crested, you don't want to seed a brome in the crested, because the horses are going to always pick the brome and the crested will get seeded, so seed what's in that mix. And the preferred technique is drilling it in versus broadcasting. If you do have access to broadcast and you can drag it in, that is another option, especially when it comes to over seeding. Next slide. That's the end of my talk. And so I think we're going to turn it over to, I believe it's not in terms of it's Rachel or Paige, but I'll be on for the rest of the session and we can take any questions at the end. A lot of what Kevin talked about actually coincides with grazing strategies and grazing ideas. So with the season that we have this year, we're actually not, you know, we're looking more into the limiting term out time or rotational grazing instead of continuous grazing because of the fact that there's no short on moisture that the ability of those blocks or those pastures to come back after some pretty hard continuous grazing is going to be a lot harder because we don't have the moisture to bring back those grasses. We also noticed just a slight discussion on this because we're going to talk about drought next week, but we did also notice that there are some delay in these grasses as well. So we really want to watch that before we turn out to pasture. And again, we'll talk more on that next week. But this is a good picture to show so that you know you have a sacrifice area with water or shelter, a place that you can feed your grains or supplement or dry hay and then hopefully be able to rotate them through the pasture so that you can, you're able to keep pressure off of one area more than the other. So this is just kind of a good idea for grazing strategies so again that rotational grazing meaning that you'll go from pasture one to pasture two to pasture three to pasture four throughout the season. turnout time to your critters maybe keeping them in at night after they've had a little bit of supplemental grain or possibly a little bit extra hay to make sure that they're not putting too much pressure on that pasture. So with the rotational grazing you want to take into thought the number of paddocks that you have available to you and how many days with how many horses you're going to be putting in there. So those are some things we really want you to look at especially with the situation that we're in this year. Grass is going to be a hot commodity this year so if you're able or you have any or you're able to graze on this is one thing to really watch to make sure that you do not overgraze those paddocks or or different locks that you have set up for your horses. This is just kind of a rule of thumb so if you have two paddocks in the spring you turn out to one that's that's appropriately the appropriate height for grazing then you're you're looking at maybe 14 days of grazing with 14 days of rest so and then it changes throughout the summer because in the spring you're going to have your full season grasses that are that are coming up and that's what your horses are going to graze on. In the summer you're getting your warm seasons or your later for a year later cool into your warm season grasses and then in the fall it is your warm-saving grasses too so making sure that these are able to come back for fall grazing or you know keeping that pasture available so that fall grazing is a possibility for you. So it all just depends on how many how many pastures you have available how many horses are going to be going into that so this is all part of what what you'll need to watch for rotational grazing this summer. I'm going to just lightly touch on some of the weed management for pastures Kevin did talk about you know how a lot of a lot of pastures that are overgrazed you're going to see more weeds in them and this is this is something that that is really needs to be watched as well as it's weed management is basically whole pasture management so starting with whole pasture management is going to help with any weeds that you get and then there's there's several ways to control them the three main ways that we're going to talk about is is cultural chemical or mechanical so there's not not a ton of cultural methods but chemical or spraying is is one of them and then mechanical is the other so mowing them down instead of spraying them could be an option for you especially if you have smaller pastures or maybe don't want to spray because you're not able to if they're the horses are in there we don't recommend spraying while any animals are in there and then also calling the label on any chemical that you utilize on the first thing you want to do to make sure that you get proper control of any weeds is to ID those weeds so knowing what you're you're up against knowing what you're handling is going to help in a go a long way when you're talking about possibly either chemical control or mechanical control because then you know you know when the best time to mow is when the seed head comes um when the best time to spray is and when you're going to get the best control for it so those are the things that we really want um want to look at because when you have kind of an overall control or overall um management of your pasture your grass is going to grow well enough to outcompete those weeds so making sure that you're taking care of the weeds that you have so that your grass can you know help you with the control of those weeds in the future so making sure you know weed management starts with pasture management and then Kevin also talked about uh fertilizing your pastures we did want to mention a little bit there is a possibility of you know you can do some soil testing on that pasture to see how much nitrogen you may want to put down um and then he also mentioned you know you don't usually want to put down any phosphorus for potassium but when you're doing soil testing we then can see how much is there which is good like he said for the nutrients in the plant or the the minerals in the plant so that's good to know as well um pH and organic matter is also good to know especially if you're needing to oversee on anything you're able to know kind of what seeds would be able to be put down um with the pH levels that you have there usually when you soil test you go to a depth of six inches um and you don't want to just test in one spot you want to you want to test the whole field and you can collect samples kind of in a zigzag pattern using a spade um and adding you know six inches of dirt into the into a bucket mixing it all up and then putting it into a bag um like there is on the right hand side I do have one right here too um and we do send that off to the NDSU soils lab so that's that's normally what you get back is the nitrogen phosphorus potassium pH and organic matter um usually you can can do soil testing about every three years so it's not an every year sort of thing um and Kevin had mentioned to you know you're not going to fertilize every year once you get into it it's going to be either every other year or every two years or every every third year sorry um so you just want to make sure that that's kind of kind of how you're going if you do have um different areas of a pasture so a high area and maybe a low area I would suggest soil sampling those separately so your low area and your high area would be two different samples so you'd end up putting in um two different areas so that you know you know kind of what's going into both of those and next I'm going to actually turn it over to Paige. All right so let's talk about when to initiate and see grazing a lot of people decide when to turn out just based on the calendar and that's not the best method as it's going to vary year to year depending upon the weather conditions and then also what part of the state you're at and what species you have in your pasture. One of the recommended ways to determine when to start grazing is by leaf growth stage is the most accurate for most of our species and and the majority of them you know as a general rule of thumb we're going to say three to three and a half leaf stages when you want to start so this picture on the left we have one full leaf two full leaf three full leaf so this picture on the left is a three leaf stage the one on the right is that three and a half leaves three full leaves and then this fourth one is just about halfway um out so that would be the recommendation that you can use in your own pastures. Some people really like to go by height of the pasture as well and that doesn't consider species differences so there are some recommendations that you'll find out there from different um universities and grazing management publications that'll say you know start when grazing when the grass is six to eight inches tall. If you're in an area where you have a majority of grass species in your pasture that don't ever get that tall even in a high moisture year that's not going to work for you um so you really kind of need to know what what species you're dealing with but if you're going by the the height method and that's a lot of our cool season grasses that follow um those recommendations in in some publications you want to stop when the majority of grasses are about four inches tall. That's also an issue too when we hear people say take half and leave half and that is a good recommendation but we want to think of that by the volume of the plant or the weight of the plant and not just the height because again some of our grass species don't get very tall but they may have a lot of leaves at the base of the plant so the idea is is that you're taking half of the plant and leaving half. We do have more information on that in another publication. So the detriment of grazing too early is that you're going to reduce plant bigger it reduces the amount of plant leaf surface or leaf tissue area that's needed for photosynthesis and growth so you're going to end up with weaker plants thinner stands lower total forage production and increased risk of those disease pressures or weed pressure along with disease and potentially some insects. So that all comes back to what Rachel's talking about for grazing management grazing too early and overgrazing a result in these issues and it can take several years to regain productivity.  So here's a visual for overgrazing when we say take half and leave half let's look at what that could mean so if we remove 50 percent of the volume of the leaf the percent of growth growth stoppage is two to four percent so just a small amount but as we increase removing 70 percent of the volume of the leaves you stop or reduce that root growth by almost 80 percent and if we remove 80 percent of the leaf volume you completely stop root growth. Okay so that's some of the underground things so sometimes we just look at what's growing above ground and what's happening with the forage production that way we have to keep in mind that their root growth is also very important for your plant figure. Next thing we're going to talk about is transitioning your horses to spring grasses we have an issue with some horses and sometimes we forget that this can be an issue when they go from eating a dry forage that is maybe a little bit lower in non-structural carb rate, carbohydrate production and we suddenly turn them out onto a lush green grass pasture like we have in the picture here that sudden change can cause hindgut destruction meaning that normally the nutrients that are absorbed in the small intestine get bypassed into the cecum and can cause some issues in horses primarily they'll start with symptoms that are similar to colic maybe some diarrhea and gas and if we don't manage that or back them off of this new change in diet and higher levels of our non-structural carbohydrates it can continue to cause issues to drop the pH and result in some laminitis problems so the key thing to remember here is to adapt your horses to spring grass slowly so say right now if they're on a full hay diet in a dry lot while you're letting your pasture grow and reach the appropriate stage before you turn them out when the grass is ready to graze start by letting them graze that 15 to 30 minutes a day at a time and increase that each day until they're grazing and out on grass for more than four hours a day at that time you're usually safe to consider or safe to let them graze the entire time or stay out on pasture the entire time that allows the microbes to adapt you want to monitor your horses closely if they have any of the symptoms that we talked about remove them from grass and certainly consult with your veterinarian if the symptoms are severe here's a couple methods for managing higher risk horses so our insulin resistant horses horses that have been diagnosed with cushions or horses that are obese can use grazing mussels try to avoid grazing in sunny afternoons you can consider turning them out just overnight after they've been adapted to that spring grass even at the lowest non-structural carbohydrate levels in the early morning hours can still exceed the recommended intake for some of these at-risk horses so again you want to work with your veterinarian to come up with a good strategy and realize that all horses are at risk but some of our horses are even more at risk so that's all I have for you today I'm going to go ahead and turn the floor back over to Mary and she's going to finish out the webinar okay so are there questions this is the time when you guys can unmute and ask questions and we can actually Rachel if you want to send it back to just the gallery view then people can go ahead and unmute and ask some questions we did have some stuff rolling through the chat so while you're thinking your question Veronica had asked about horses being treated after eating red maple tree or other toxic plants and Kevin just went ahead and answered that if that is a potential to call your vet they can possibly treat with activated charcoal or mineral via stomach tube and so calling the vet in the case of emergency is always good other thoughts or questions okay Mindy says can we fertilize with manure that is one or two years old if so when's the best time to do that so I am going to see what Kevin has to say about this just from a grass standpoint even though I'm the manure person so I'm going to let Kevin take a shot at this and then I will follow up well I'll say you know spreading manure on tame grass pastures is a technique to add fertility and and Mary will tell the details on this but it does add nitrogen into the profile as well as p and k and so it is one of those that you can use and you can you can really spread fertilizer any any time but the best time and I'll let Mary cover that is you do get a benefit from that manure now Mary can tell you when and how much so yeah we we like to soil sample to tell us the how much and the when I would just say so Kevin had talked about you know using urea or using a nitrogen that's going to be really readily available manure is less readily available it takes a little more time especially a horse manure horse manure is very neutral in how the the nutrients are mineralized so it's not so there's like a liquid manure would have more of the properties of right now nitrogen whereas horse manure it just takes a little more time and so that is I I wouldn't recommend it if you're going to say we want to spread it right now and have beautiful green pastures probably going to go with Kevin's recommendation from earlier but if you're thinking I have all this manure and I want to spread it I compost it I want to spread it I want to spread it raw absolutely spread it it is for fertility just keeping in mind when you're going to do that and so probably I would recommend doing it in the fall so it has time to mineralize and then by spring we should see some benefits from that. Well a great question Paul up there I don't know the answer to this but maybe Paige does obviously horse manure can carry parasites is there a time period when that when you get less live parasites in terms of age of manure? Well this one back at Mary too and making sure that if you're applying manure that it's correctly composted and heated to the appropriate levels to interrupt the life cycle of those parasites. What was the follow-up question? I'm sorry. I don't know if you've had any specifics on you know what temperature the pile needs to reach in order to make sure that we're killing those parasites through all of its life stages. Okay yep so we want it between 130 and 150 is a really good good place to have that so we're going to be killing weed seeds pathogens all of that stuff between those temperatures we're still having some composting action happen under that 130 I mean if you stick your hand in there you're like wow this is pretty warm so there is some action happening but if you want that actual pathogen and weed seed kill we're going to want to make sure that we are under the are between the 130 and 150 we don't necessarily want to go over that either because that's where we then kind of kill everything we just kill the entire process and so that's more of what happens in stockpiling we have one really great heat cycle and then it stops so that is what I say there and it looks like Brooks has a question are there any forages that are better for a horse that has foundered? From a grass standpoint I think this is hard to manage because the nutritional values of grass has changed so quickly throughout the grazing season that I believe the recommendation for horses that have foundered or at high risk for foundering again is to manage their diet a little bit more closely with forages that have been tested so you know I would definitely work with the vet because it's going to depend on the risk level of that particular horse you do see some horses that have just a mild risk of foundering or mild laminated case that you know they can graze for a short period of time with a grazing muzzle and they're fulfilling their nutritional needs with a balanced dry forage on the other hours of the day so it's going to really be an individualized case and if anybody's wondering why Rachel is sharing this again I just asked her to this is a new reporting that we have to do and so if you want to scan that QR code or I put the link in the chat if you want to do that you're more than welcome to just some demographics age race ethnicity questions are there other questions relating to and so under management we're going to go into just a little bit next week we're going to touch on and then we're going to have an entire hour of it in two weeks and so certainly if you have questions and you didn't put them in the registration when you registered you can register again and type it in or you can just send it to me when I send you the the link for where we're putting this recording you can just send a question back if you have something specific you'd really like me to cover in the mineral talk and next week we're focusing on drought management which is a very pertinent and timely topic for the entire state of North Dakota this year yes and so that's where we'll learn more about feeding during the drought and grazing during the drought a little bit of dry lotting and winter management during drought and so all things that you're wondering about and again if you have questions specific to that that you may not have answered are asked you can send those to me too okay I think with that we will be done for the day so thanks guys for participating and we'll see you next week


Well, hello there. My name is Sandy Allnock.  I pre-launched the brushstroke florals class a few days ago. And at the time, I apologize because I didn't have the cards done. Well, guess what? I have the cards done. The videos will be uploaded later on today, the 23rd of April. I just ran out of time. I'm recording this very, very late at night on the 22nd. Nothing like last minute. I had a different plan for today's video, but I think it actually worked out better. I was going to show you how to paint some apple blossoms or cherry blossoms in this same kind of a brushstroke floral style. And I had the footage and everything was ready. And I was going to be doing a large one and then a couple of small ones and then making cards out of them. And the only footage I seemed to have retained is this Buddha board painting and then a large painting. And then I had done three small ones and the three small ones are the ones that disappeared. The footage just went by. I don't know what happened. But I did have all of the card making footage and lots and lots to talk about that I have learned over the last couple of days. So we're going to kind of adapt the plan a little bit and it's going to make it a shorter video than it was going to be. So that's good, right? Alright, let's get started painting. So in the brushstroke florals class, it's just one flower at a time. So this one is going to be a group of flowers on a branch. And it can be either apple blossom, cherry blossom, whatever you think it might be. But I'm going to use a piece of Sumi paper and it has a soft side and a not as soft side. They both paint about the same as far as I'm concerned, a little bit more definition maybe on one side than the other. But I've kind of painted on both sides. And here I'm just throwing some really watered down quinacridone rose, like just plain watercolor onto the paper to establish where I want my branches to hang down. And then using ink, I'm putting some lines in using a Chinese calligraphy brush set. And this is a brush set that I reviewed in my previous video, if you want to go see that. I also talked in that video about how I made my ink mixes, because I have one that's 100% black, one that's about 50% and one that's about 15 to 20%. Just so I have some variations in how much value I'm putting in there. You can paint on both sides of this. And you can also go back and forth between them with a caveat that I'll be sharing with you here in a few minutes, because I found out some things about the paper and the adhesive that I used to mount my pieces. But I'm just kind of painting in some heavier pink now, just with thicker mixture, more pigment, less water, so that I get stronger color.  Gave me a really nice look for this. When you turn it over, only some parts come through. So then I could kind of choose which branches I wanted to reaffirm that sort of thing. And it came out just kind of lovely. I did the same thing small, as I had said, the footage of painting that disappeared, but I have the rest. And I'm mounting it onto a heavier piece of paper because this sumi paper is really delicate. And if you're going to make cards with it like I am, it's going to be a problem. So I'm going to wet the back of the paper and notice how bleedy it's getting. You can notice it, especially in that little floaty bit of pink. That was my little signature in a square. Well, not really my signature because I can't paint that small. But nonetheless, you can see how much it's bleeding. It was very defined and it's not now. The other piece of paper is Nina cardstock. And I'd say probably try using something a little bit heavier. If you have some, you know, this is the 80 pound, maybe the 110 pound would work better. Because this did curl a little bit on me as I was working with it. But I'm putting nori paste on it with a brush. You don't want to use a dry brush with it. Use a damp brush. So I was wetting my brush a little bit. And then you want to paste this on here with the wet side going toward the glue. But the whole thing is really wet. The front of it is damp at the very least. But put it on there. And I highly recommend after going through this process, make sure your sumi paper is bigger than you need. And make sure you just have lots of room to work around it because you can trim that down later for a card. But look at the mess that that pink made. I'm going to have to add some extra blossoms and a little branch down there when it's dry. But wrap it in between a piece of folded wax paper and then you'll put it in a book overnight. You want to definitely leave it overnight. It's going to take some time to dry. So let's do another one. This one also is done with the same ink that bled as in the previous one. And this one is it it's a diamine diamine ink like a fountain pen type of ink, a duochrome. It's got some shimmer to it. And it just bleeds like crazy. It's not waterproof. And it just made a mess. The same thing I've got the little signature block that's going to have to turn into a little flower cluster again, because it got really kind of mushy. I was hoping that the previous one was just accidental. But that was not the case. It was not accidental. So unfortunately, I had to adapt. So if your little signature block is something that's important to you, you might wait until after you finish the mounting process, just to make sure or else do it in a permanent ink that's not going to bleed with water. So I've got the Nori paste on my Nina cardstock again. I'll place this one, kind of flip it upside down so that the wet side goes down toward the glue. And you can see it's a little on the curled side. So trying to get it down just perfect is not great. So I always give myself a little more room just more room around your paper is easier to manage. This one is done in watercolor. It's done in Daniel Smith watercolor. And that worked a whole lot better. The paint has been put on both sides, both the front and the back. This little signature that you see in the corner is the one part to watch. That will tell you exactly what's going on here because I can paint right over that signature and nothing happened to it. It didn't bleed at all. And the flowers, I was a little nervous to make them bleed too much. But what I found is if I'm just a little less slathering of the water, when I go over the watercolor, then watercolor doesn't really do a lot of bleeding. If you start like putting a whole lot of water and then, you know, swishing the brush back and forth, you can lift that color. But if you're gentle with it, you should be okay.  But also if you're using a different brand, I don't know what's going to happen with every brand. So you'll have to test it out and see. But put some wax paper over it or deli paper or something smooth it all out nicely. It really sharpens up the artwork and just makes the whole thing look so much better to have it mounted on this. And then it's going to be easier to work with when you're actually making something from it. But here you can see my little square with the heart in it is just fine. Everything else got a little softer but not enough to be much of a problem.  This one is going to have to be reworked a little bit to turn my little blob into a flower. I just need a little branch going down to it. But everything else is kind of okay. It didn't matter a whole lot that those little blobs ended up a little softer. Didn't hurt anything. So I'll put those two both between wax paper and put them in a big heavy art history book. That's what my art history books are good for now. And I have this one that was on hot press watercolor paper. And it's done with the diamine, diamine inks, however you say that. I used a mat around it that is sized for a slimline card so I could kind of gauge where I wanted to do my trimming. And then could just whack at it. I decided to make it not as long as a slimline card. So I made it a little bit on the shorter side and started trying to figure out then what I was going to do with the rest of the card design. And I kind of got out a scrap of red. Wanted to have maybe an outline around it. So do a layer of red underneath of it. And then it was a matter of deciding do I want it on black card stock, do I want it on white card stock. And what I started discovering too was that my white card stocks don't all match my watercolor papers. If you've ever had that problem, I found that having the red divider in between the white of the watercolor paper and the white of the card stock, the card base, actually worked out better because they were separated. Like when they're right next to each other, if you're trying to do white on white and you're using watercolor paper, it sometimes looks like one is dingier than the other. But if you put another color in between some sort of layer, then it's not nearly as noticeable that they're not perfect. That open space could either house a sentiment or I could just leave it blank, put a sentiment on the inside. And I decided that the sentiment on the outside would be nice. I love the decaled edge on the outside of my scrap watercolor paper that was sitting on my table. So I just left that and tied some embroidery floss around it in a little bow. The next day, I was able to get out all of the things that were in the book. So not just the three that I'm going to show you, but the rest of the ones that went into the class stash. And it was a day. It was just a crazy day of card making and yeah, craziness. These each need a little bit of fixing, but the first step was going to be to figure out how to trim them. I wanted to get them to card size and this mask is a two-sized. So it could help me at least get these things arranged the way I want them, even though they'll have to be a little bit smaller if I'm going to use any layers on my cards. And when I determine layers, I just start layering card stock and I try to see which colors I have that would look nice.  There's innumerable ways to go and when you've got really small art paintings like art cards like this, I find that just a couple of beautiful layers underneath of them, even if they're really thin layers or thicker layers like this, they just make everything that much more beautiful. I got out some ribbon to put around it. I taped just a band around the card and taped it on the back and then on the front side, I didn't want it to just be a straight old piece of ribbon. So I got out some embroidery floss again. I was just in an embroidery floss mood, I guess, and tied a little knot around it and then made a bow out of it because that way it feels like it's a tied bow out of that larger pink ribbon, but without making a big old chunky one that's going to make it get eaten by the post office. So a little tiny piece of embroidery floss worked great and then I used dimensional adhesive under these panels to attach them to the card and then realized I hadn't done anything to fix the stuff that needed fixed. So I got out the inks, the same ink that I had painted the flowers in, but then I just made my little square and did a heart inside of it, my little quote unquote signature, but then I started working with the inks again to just connect the little blob that is now a flower and reaffirmed some of these lines too because it just felt like they weren't as beefy as I wanted them to be, so I could straighten them out, add a little bit of detail here and there, you could add more to the flowers at this point and what I did find was once this had been attached onto the backer board and I had done the whole nori paste thing, I could paint without getting nearly the bleeding that I had gotten when I was working with just the paper by itself, so if there's any tweaks that you want to do that you want to keep really sharp, this would be the time to take care of that. The rest of the time, you know, you may lose some of that when the paper gets wet when you're doing the mounting process. So I fixed my big tree as well, added a little more detail onto it and this one I decided to make most of the card a pink background and the card base is black, I rounded the corners, just added a couple of pearls and my signature block again because not every card needs a sentiment on the outside and I kind of even like one without a sentiment because it feels like you could kind of stick it on the mantle like it's a piece of artwork rather than a card, which is nice and then the embroidery thread made an appearance again for this card, I'm tying it around the front almost to hide the fact that my panel was cut too short so I have a little piece sticking out and I just put the twine around the edge where where it's sticking out and the painting portion is on dimensional adhesive so I've got some dimension there but since it's cut short now it has a bow on one side of it and I'm adhering it down with some clear glossy accents and adhesive so that'll hold it in place and then decided to add a small sentiment there just kind of hanging over the edge doing that on some dimensional adhesive so that is my little card so my beautiful deckled edge on this and I used a stronger red paper for this one whereas pinks for the other ones so that one came out pretty nice we've got this guy that has the the black on the bottom really echoes the black in the tree branch and I really liked the combination of it and the fact that I was able to hide my little blooper that got all bleedy that worked really nicely I do like to try to make sure I line the insides while I'm making cards because I can't tell you how many end up in a stash of cards that like I can't write because they're in a box and they don't have liners in them but I do love putting liners in cards that don't even need liners too because it just adds design-wise to them and it adds as well some beefiness to the cards so it feels more substantial and when it's an art card you know being more substantial is not a bad thing right because that means people will keep it because it feels like like it's got some oomph to it now I want to give you a little peek into the brushstroke flowers since those cards are now done and they came out really nice I was pretty pleased with the whole set of them lots of little tiny things that I tried with these cards to make them a little fancier than just a painting on a card so if you have one that maybe doesn't look perfect you want to embellish it or something I got some great ideas for how to do that in the design lesson we're going to talk about layering we'll talk about you know some alternate types of cards some alternate shapes that sort of thing ways to make a black and white card more interesting just lots of different ideas that have stemmed from my crazy day of card making a lot of it is like different ways to use ribbon and twine just because I love ribbon and twine and they just make me happy so that's always good like using stuff that makes you happy so I hope that this is a class that you might be interested in it's linked in the doobly-doo and I've also put it on both the wash and ink page as well as the watercolor page so it's findable now on the website because I had had it hidden since the class wasn't quite finished look at me I even did slimline cards that are the A-frame types instead of the side opening figured out how to do that so be sure to check out the class and I guess that's about it for me today hope you'll try some apple blossoms or cherry blossoms and I will see you in class if you decide to go that route take care and I'll see you in a couple of days with another video bye bye


Then, the fourth problem, 5 kg of nitrogen is kept in a piston cylinder at 800 kilopascals and 127 degrees centigrade. We will draw this also, so there is a piston. Now, at this state, the piston rests on the stop. So, there is a stop here. The piston is resting on the stop. Now, heat is transferred slowly to the nitrogen until its temperature reaches 527 degrees centigrade. A pressure of 1500 kilopascals is required to lift the piston. So, the mass of the piston is such that a pressure of 1500 kilopascals is required to lift the piston. So, atmospheric pressure is 100 kilopascals they can they can assume it may not be required. So, determine the work and heat interactions considering that nitrogen is an ideal gas obeying P v equal to 297 T and C v for nitrogen is 743 joule per kg Kelvin. So, solution P 1 equal to 800 kilopascals. Okay, now T 1 equal to 127 degrees centigrade, T 2 equal to 527 degrees centigrade, mass of nitrogen is 5 kg. So, these are all the data given. Now, we can find V 1 the initial volume that is what using this. So, this will 5 into 297 into 127 plus 273 divided by 800 kilopascals. So, 800 into 10 to the power minus 3 say 10 to the power plus 3. So, that will be equal to 0.7425 meter cube that is V 1. So, now until pressure increases from 800 kilopascals to 1500 kilopascals the piston will not lift. Okay. So, during this volume remains a constant.  So, let us say that it be that this let this state where P just reaches 1500 kilopascals as state 2. Okay. So, the constant volume. So, V 2 will be equal to V 1 equal to 0.7425 and P. So, this is actually final pressure I will say this is final temperature T f. So, this P 2 will be equal to 1500 kilopascals. So, that is the state at which the piston will just lift after. So, till now what is the heat added we will see. So, this is the condition constant volume process. So, that means work 1 to 2 equal to 0. Okay. So, what is the temperature now? T 2 we can find now that using the state of equation of state that will be 1500 into 10 power 3 into 0.7425 meter cube divided by 5 into 297 that will be equal to 750 Kelvin T 2. Now, I can find delta U 1 to 2 equal to M C V delta T which is equal to 5 into 743 into 750 minus 127 plus 273. So, 750 in Kelvin. So, we have to keep the initial temperature also in Kelvin. So, this will be equal to delta 2 delta U will be got. So, now I want what is the Q for this Q 1 to 2 can be found as W 1 to 2 which is 0 plus delta U 1 to 2. So, delta U 1 to 2 will be equal to 5 into 743 into 750 minus. Okay. So, that is the value. Now, final temperature is is 527 degree centigrade. So, this means further heating is happening because now the temperature is only 750 Kelvin. So, this is what this is will be equal to 800 Kelvin. Okay. So, some 750 to 800 still heating is happening. So, but this time. So, we can say further heating has continued. So, now P remains constant at 1500 kilo Pascal because now it can be lifted. So, now it just get lifted and goes out. So, pressure will not change now volume will increase final temperature is known. So, we can say P 3 or the final pressure will be equal to P 2 equal to 1500 kilo Pascal that is known. Okay. So, now volume you have to find final volume. So, state 3 P 3 equal to 1500 kilo Pascal T 3 equal to 800 Kelvin. So, we can find V 3 V 3 equal to what 5 into 297 into 800 final temperature divided by 1500 into 10 power 3 which will be equal to 0.792 meter cube. Now, we will see that work done 2 to 3 will be equal to 1500 into the final volume minus V 2. V 2 is 0.7, 0.7425. So, that will be equal to 74.25 kilo joules. So, similarly delta U 2 to 3 can be found as 5 into 743 into 800 minus 750. Okay. Now, what is Q 2 to 3 will be equal to W 2 to 3 plus delta U 2 to 3 equal to 74.25 plus 5 into 743 into 800 minus 750. Okay. Now, this is Q 2. So, what is total Q equal to Q 1 to 2 plus Q 2 to 3 which is equal to 74.25 plus 5 into 743 into 800 minus 400. So, which is equal to 1560.25 kilo joules. So, you can understand that in this problem the initially pressure increases in order to float the piston. Once the pressure reaches that value of 1500 kilo Pascal where the piston gets floated then a constant pressure process occurs. Okay. Now, fifth problem here a piston cylinder device has 0.4 kg of air initially at 1500 kilo Pascal under temperature of 800 Kelvin. The cylinder has stopped such that its volume cannot increase below 0.04 meter cube. Now, air is gradually cooled to 300 Kelvin. To determine the final volume and pressure, work and heat interactions. Okay. Now, P 1 equal to 1500 kilo Pascal T 1 equal to 800 Kelvin. These are the two values. Now, what is M 0.4 kg? And again the equation of state P v equal to 287 T and a C v value is given. Okay. Now, what is the initial volume? Initial volume we can find now as we are using this. So, mass is 0.4 into 287 into T 1 is 800 Kelvin divided by pressure is 1500 into 10 power 3. So, that gives the initial volume as 0.061226 meter cube. That is the initial volume. Now, it says so we can draw the figure now. There is a stop here. The piston is initially here. So, the volume initially is 0.061226. Now, if you cool this, what happens? The piston descends down. The piston cannot descend down beyond the stop. So, finally, I can say the position of the piston will be as shown by the dashed line. It should be on the stop. In this situation, in this state, the volume will be 0.04. After that, the piston cannot descend down. Okay. So, initially when it descends down by cooling, it is a constant pressure process. Pressure remains constant as the volume changes from 0.061226 meter cube to 0.04. So, this in this state. So, this is state 2 and this is state 1. Okay. Now, state 1 volume is known. Volume of state 2 is 0.04 meter cube. That is also given because below this, the piston cannot descend down. So, when the volume decreases from 0.0612262.04, pressure remains constant. So, that means that I can say it is free to move a piston. Now, after that, what happens? The pressure will decrease, but volume will remain constant after that. So, let us see this first. So, as the air is cooled, its temperature decreases. Piston descends at constant pressure. Okay. Now, state 2 is fixed now. When the temperature state 2, when the piston is just sitting on its stops, then what is T2? T2 will be equal to 1500 into 10 power 3 into volume is 0.04 divided by 0.4 into 287. So, that will be equal to 522.65 Kelvin. So, you can see that the temperature has decreased from 800 to 522.65. Finally, the temperature has reached 300 Kelvin. So, further cooling happens. Further cooling happens under T final equal to T3 is given as 300 Kelvin. So, now, during this piston cannot descend down. So, V equal to constant. So, we can say V3 equal to V2 equal to 0.04 meter cube. From this, I can find the pressure. What is this? P3 equal to 0.4 into 287 into final temperature is 300 here divided by the volume 0.04. That will be 861,000 Pascals or 861 kilo Pascals. Now, you can see that the states are fixed. Now, as per the work interaction, it is there only when the volume is changing. That is in the first line. So, we can say W122 is P into delta V. Obviously, it is negative because volume is decreasing. So, that we can write as what? 1500 into 0.061226 minus 0.04. So, that value is the work. That will be minus 31.84 kilo Joules. In the second process, there is no work. So, W223 equal to 0. Similarly, I can directly calculate delta U from 3 to 1. Finally, that is the total change in this delta U. That is 0.4 into 717 into final temperature is 300. Initial temperature was 800. So, that is the total delta U. That will be equal to minus 143.4 kilo Joules. Now, what is Q? Q will be equal to delta U plus W. So, this is total Q. I can say total Q. What is this? Delta U is the total delta U. That is minus 143.4 plus the total work is minus 31.84 because for 2 to 3 it is 0. So, the total Q is minus 175.24 kilo Joules because heat is removed it should be negative. So, it is clear that in this problem first a constant volume process occurs where the volume decreases. Sorry, pressure process occurs where the volume decreases. Then volume remains constant and pressure further decreases. Temperature continuously decreases. Now, this sixth problem the rigid vessel of volume point, this is rigid vessel of volume 0.25 meter cube contains air initially at 100 kilopascals and 300 Kelvin. P1 equal to 100 kilopascals T1 equal to 300 Kelvin. A stirrer, a stirrer is driven by descending a mass. There is a mass connected to a pulley to a shaft and there is a stirrer. So, this mass is descended down. Slowly it is descended down. The mass is 20 kgs by descending a mass. I shown in the figure. So, when you pull it down slowly then this will turn the pulley and the shaft so that the stirrer also rotates. So, that is the work which is done from the surrounding or by the mass on the system taken as the air in the system. So, air is present in the system. Now, starting from the rest the mass descends through a distance of 15 meters in a time interval of 5 seconds. That means, what that is a it is not a constant speed descent. It is a so it is rest it is slowly traveling like the there is an acceleration here. There is an acceleration. How can how can it be calculated because it is given that 15 meters is covered in 5 seconds. So, initial velocity is 0. There is a final velocity so that there is an acceleration. And at this work of doing this descending of the mass, somebody has to there is a agent has to do this. You will make some work to be transferred to the air to the stirrer. So, that is the work transferred to the system. Now, during this time interval there is a heat loss occurring which is having a magnitude of 100 joules. So, heat loss occurs 100 joules. Determine the final temperature and pressure of the air in the vessel. Initial temperature and pressure is given. Take the value of G as 9.81 meter per second square and the air obeys P v equal to 2870 equation of state and the C v is also given. This is the problem. Now, so pressure volume and temperature are given. So, you can find the first you can find the for example, you can first find the velocity. So, given that initial velocity equal to 0 meter per second and the distance traveled by the mass s we can say is 15 meters. Then the time it takes to descent to the descent is 5 seconds. Okay. Now, from this information I can find the mass of the air. Mass of the air in the vessel will be equal to 100 kPa into the volume divided by 287 into initial temperature 300 which is equal to 0.29036 kg mass is formed. So, from this information I can say the final velocity v2 equal to v1 plus a into t. This is one equation I have. Okay. Similarly, another equation is s equal to initial velocity into time plus half acceleration into t square. Okay. Now, I can say this 15 equal to initial velocity is 0. So, 0 plus half a into phi square which implies the acceleration will be equal to 1.2 meter per second square. So, that means see I can pull the mass down at constant velocity also, but in this case it is not. So, it is having initial velocity 0, final velocity can calculate final velocity is what from the acceleration 0 plus 1.2 into 5 that is basically 6 meter per second. So, that is a kinetic energy change to understand for the mass. This is this is all for the mass mass. Correct. Here the mass of the block is equal to 20 kgs. So, we can see that there is a kinetic energy change, potential energy change, etcetera for the mass. Okay. Now, we have to understand this. What is the energy transferred to the we have we want to calculate what is the energy transferred to the stirrer. The energy transferred to the stirrer is the net energy change for this mass. Correct. So, what we have to do is for the block for the block of mass we can write delta E equal to delta U plus delta kinetic energy plus delta potential energy equal to Q minus W. Okay. Now, temperature of the block is constant. So, delta U will be equal to 0. Similarly, Q is equal to 0 for the block. There is no heat addition or heat rejection from this, because the block does not have any heat interaction with the surroundings. So, I can say Q is also 0. So, this goes this also goes. Okay. Now, from this I can find the W W. So, I can say W is a B output because this is W for the block. Okay. Now, what is W for the block will be equal to minus delta kinetic energy minus delta potential energy. Okay. So, that will be equal to minus mass of the block plus a point of M B V 2 square by 2 minus V 1 square by 2. This is the delta K E minus delta P E will be equal to M B G into H. So, we can write this as 0.5 into 20 into 0.5. So, 0.5 I put. No. So, this is not this 2 will not come. So, this is just 0.5 M B V 2 square minus V 1 square. Okay. So, now, this 6 into 6 minus 0 minus minus this M B here this will be 20. Why I am putting minus here? Minus or minus I have to put. Okay. So, this is sorry this minus 20 into 9.81 into minus 15. Why this minus comes? This is because the potential energy decreases. So, this will be equal to 2583 joules for the work. So, this is the work the block is transferring. Okay. Now, W R. So, R plus W block should be equal to 0 because the immediate surrounding okay see for the shaft which is connected to the stirrer the immediate surrounding is a block. So, block is actually doing the work. So, we can say this which implies W for the air will be equal to minus 2583 joules.  So, that is it. So, please understand that in this problem the kinetic energy is what is bringing in the energy basically and the potential energy decreases. Kinetic energy increases you can see that the final velocity is higher. Okay. So, now with this I estimate that total energy change for this and negative of that will be given to the block. That is the work involved in the block. This work is actually imported to the air. So, air receives a work of or energy in the form of work transfer equal to 2583 joules. Okay. Now, for the air we can say first law Q air minus W air equal to delta U air which is equal to M air C V into delta T, T2 minus T1. Okay. Now, what is Q air? Q air is given 100 kilo 100 joules of in the problem if you go back you can see that here 100 joules of heat is lost to the surrounding. So, Q is minus 100. Okay. Then we have to W air we know that value here. So, we can substitute this. So, Q air is minus 100 minus of minus 2583 you substitute for W equal to M air is 0.29036 which we have calculated into C V is given as 717 into, but I do not know T2. So, T1 is known. So, from this I can find the final temperature of the air as 311.9 Kelvin. So, that is the final temperature. So, we can see that the first law is used to find the state final state of the air because you know work transfer heat transfer etc from then I find the final state. Since volume is constant we can say P2 by P1 equal to T2 by T1 which implies P2 equal to 103.966 kilo Pascals. So, initial pressure was 100 kilo Pascals. So, you can see that the slight rise in the pressure slight rise in the temperature due to the small work which is transferred. So, this is the final pressure. Okay. This is the final pressure.


Good morning everybody. Welcome to my channel. It's Eva from Bohemian Crafting and today I'm coming to share with you new project. I've got a new product not project new product I've got here on my table. I'm making embellishments for my herbal journal and I wanted to have there something Something in vintage style So I have designed for myself These circles with numbers because I do love numbers and I forgot to put there, you know that that shade of vintage look I Did cut it out and I glued I'm gonna show you I did cut out those circles And here I've got one from book page and I'm gonna give it try Then I could exactly same size of circles from one dark card stock and from white card stock What I'm doing here. It's I'm just gluing the design Designed circle on one side and clear white circle on that opposite side. So it makes nice and strong Embellishment and then I'm putting just punching just hole for Jumping to hang it to my journal Just like this. It's nice and strong. So I'm gonna make one with this book page Because I want to show you something and I was wondering if I will use distress inks and Distress it but I wanted to have that that look of vintage, you know that the tea died or coffee died Look, but I know if I will put this to coffee or tea that color will like vanished and make it those shades And it will be terrible because I did print it out on in ink jet printer Patricia Vera Montes sent me this jar with her own Ingredients some mix of Stain and First I was thinking will I use it how I will use it and when I know that when I started to do those small Embellishments from actually white paper. I was thinking. Oh, that maybe will be that That maybe maybe will be the thing I will need for my small embellishments Which I'm making from kind of white paper or paper which was printed on in ink jet printer because This amazing substance. I'm not sure what is inside, but this amazing substance doesn't Make any changes on your print it doesn't vanish that print it doesn't make anything and here you can see When you put that kind of big layer So what I did yeah, and then once I had glued all this I just used my crocodile First for myself to make sure I don't know where I want it. I draw, you know Somehow where I think I will like the whole thing here. I used my crocodile and went with that three 16 of Inch I punch the hole in that circle. That was it All over they made here like this And as I said if I will put it to coffee or tea those colors will vanished I will have their shades of green and red and any kind of shades which I don't like Because it's printed on ink jet printer So I tried this and by the way, I used this Brush on on those circles yesterday and then I just wiped it to that, you know that tissue This antibacterial multi surface wipes those Wet wipes and it's nice. It doesn't get glued those Brush hairs. So what I did I just put the layer Of this substance on my tags on that on those That before you saw I put quite a large layer And what I like on this Substance, I'm not sure what is inside but what I like on the substance. I'm gonna move it a little bit And it needs few Seconds and you will see what the substance makes it itself.  I hope You will see that in the few seconds what this substance makes it makes like groups of Of spots or splashes itself. It's like grouping to small To small layers, which is totally amazing And it makes that tea died coffee died look And I really love that and you don't need too much Which is really wonderful. This jar will will be for a very very long time and I can use it on my inkjet inkjet prints Which if you ever try that they are those colors are not Stable if you want to coffee dye them tea dye them and as you can see This substance doesn't move anything from that print Which will be moving already if I will use any, you know water Water color at Like water based colors. It will get wet that That print and those colors will like vanished to that paper. They will make that disaster on my tags So I'm using this wonderful new product here I'm gonna need something to This one I'm gonna just Light it here. Hopefully you will see that All ready. It's like grouping. I'm not sure if you see that It's like make This maybe will be Better to see It's like grouping if you will If you will let it dry itself That substance will makes like spots here and there all around And it will make beautiful beautiful coffee died tea died look I will What is it? I want to see how it will looks that book page. So here I can show you Here you can see how beautiful spots it made And I've got somewhere one more where is that one here? And I will put quite a big layer of that substance. So if you will put there just Smaller layer Here it started already made It makes those kind of groups. Can you see that how how it moved itself? So it's wonderful substance First I was like will I use it if I can you know My pages big pages I cannot coffee died tea died So I will probably don't use it for big pages But for small embellishments from for embellishments from wide book pages for white printing This substance is totally amazing and I love that That it doesn't move my colors here. I made kind of Many brush strokes. So I'm gonna Wipe it one more time So this is stains I'm gonna close the jar And show you I will also put link To patricia vera montes patricia vera montes. This is stains by patty pocket pockets I will put link for patricia youtube channel down below And I will also have a look. I think I saw that on her on her etsy So I will have a look to her etsy. I believe she does this jar on her etsy So if you are interested to have something for small embellishments for pockets for you know that additional What do you make from White book pages white paper and you want to have it in a vintage style But you don't want to make you know coffee dying tea dying because it can be a long process And maybe you don't like it. So this one it's wonderful. It doesn't have any Any smell it's wonderful. It's not sticky like sometimes those Substances are especially this one and I didn't put that too much Especially this one and it will be everything. It will be tea died coffee died It will get a little bit darker. But as you can see it made itself those spots Those like groups of this substance and it will be wonderful. So This is my short sharing for today stains by petty pockets I highly recommend this one for small embellishment So this is my sharing. I hope you all are well. I hope you are taking care about yourself Thank you so much for visiting me today. Have a wonderful day and see you next time. Bye


Today I'm getting ready to show you how to make some of the best cauliflower you've ever had. Cut your cauliflower just like this. Now you have your large pieces of cauliflower, you can just break them just like that. In a mixing bowl, you want one cup of olive oil, three-fourths of a cup mozzarella cheese. Now you're going to need the dano's cheesene, that's the cream top we're going to use about a fourth of a cup. Now some dano's chipotle, that's the maroon top.  Now take the rest, that little bit of cheese, and we're just going to put it right on top. Go into our oven at 375 degrees. All right, it's been 35 minutes. They ended up looking amazing, but the reality is they might be a little too oily for me. That was a whole cup of oil in there. So how would you recommend I make these again without using a whole cup of olive oil? Yum yum, get you some. Hey, thanks Bob for the recipe. We'll see you next time. Keep sprinkling.