The Mac Observers' Mac Geek Hub episode 740, that's 740 to you and me, for Monday, December 17th, 2018. Welcome to the Mac Observers' Mac Geek Hub, the show that we put together every week.  Sponsors for this episode include Ops Genie, now from Atlassian at OpsGenie.com, Jamf now at Jamf.com and CashFly, and their new web content optimization solution at Mac.CashFly.com. We'll talk more about each of them a little bit later. For now, here in Durham, New Hampshire, I'm Dave Hamilton. And here in Fairville, Connecticut, this is John F. Braun. How are you doing today, Mr. John F. Braun? You know, I'm doing okay, Dave, but one of my machines here is not doing too well. Well, I don't know what's going on here. So I was noticing that on my MacBook Pro here, I have a one terabyte SSD and I was noticing that the amount of free space on it is getting into the tens of gigabytes, which makes me unhappy. So I was like, well, you know, what's going on here?   But then the system portion, Dave, on this machine, it's shown as 421 gigabytes. What? That's crazy. That ain't right. No, that ain't right. I'm with you on this. So I'm trying to figure out what the system is holding onto. And the thing is, I deleted some things that I decided I didn't need that were on the order of gigabytes of size and the free space would not go down. So I've seen that before, where the free space doesn't necessarily go away right away. There's some like, but if I go to the terminal and I type DF space dash H, all in lower case, DF is disc free. The dash H means show it to me in human readable form. I will see it change there. So okay, I'll look at that. But I also have a couple of pointers to some, you know, features that we offer on this show that you should all take advantage of if you'd like to. And so one is our chat room. And I think that's at macigab.com slash stream. That's correct. And our good friend, Brian Monroe says the system part may be your local time machine snapshots. And I've been exploring that is that that's what's happening here. Oh, I didn't think snapshots would hog so much space. And I looked at a list of mine and I don't have a lot of them. I think I have like 11. So I can't think that all of them would be taken up the space. I'm thinking I'm suffering from the, oh, your drive was converted from HFS to APFS. And there was a problem with that. And you're now suffering. So I'll have to ponder how to deal with that. And one thing I may do, Dave, may surprise you. But you know, here we have these forms. And you know, I may post the details of my woes here. And I think the forms are at macigab.com slash forms. Is that correct? Yeah, macigab.com slash forums. Yes, F-O-R-U-M-S. That's right. Yeah. Wow. And there's just a thriving active community there. So I may post the details and see if somebody can help me out. I may just restore from a backup because I multiple backup. So I have a CCC backup and I have a time machine backup. I'm curious why you think it's not time machine snapshots though. I think Brian's right on this. That's what shows up there. Well, the thing is I used and there's a command where you can look at number snapshots. Oh, yeah, yeah. I only have like 11. And when I view them, and from what I can tell, carbon copy cloner will let you view your snapshots, both your time machine and your carbon copy cloner snapshots. And from what it tells me, the size of them isn't, isn't monstrously huge. So I don't know. I could try to wax some snapshots. There is a way to do that manually. Yeah. Deceutile or TMutile. There's one terminal command where you can No, I think it's TMutile. So TMutile has a snapshot subcategory or command structure where you can say, okay, show them to me, get rid of them. Well, one way to do it is, and Brian and Roe just shared a knowledge-based article about it that talks about this. But in it, Apple says if you want to delete local snapshots manually, just turn off time machine and give it a few minutes to automatically delete them. When you turn time machine back on, it remembers your previous backup disks. So there you go. You know, we had a question about that. And I'm not sure if that article is describing APFS snapshots or local snapshots under H-P-F-HFS plus. Well, it's discussing time machine snapshots. Yes. No, I get that. Which use either, right? So you know what I'm going to do right now? Yeah. Since you suggested it, I'll turn off time machine and let's see what happens. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Just magically free it all up. Wouldn't that be nice? Are you doing this on the machine that's recording and that you're using for? Of course not. No, no, it's on the MacBook Pro. Oh, okay. All right, all right. Sweet. Good. Cool. Sweet. So anyways, that's how I'm doing. That's my latest technical challenge. And we'll see what happens if anybody has had this happen before. Let me know. That keeps it fun, man. That's why we do it. How could they let us know, Dave? You know, we're just going to cover this all at the beginning. Feedback at mackegab.com. And I will concur for this one time with my esteemed colleague here, is that it's feedback at mackegab.com. Feedback at mackegab.com is the right place to go if you want to send in your thoughts and tips and questions and any of that. Jamf, however, is the right place to go if you want to manage all of your iOS and macOS devices, all your Apple devices. Because our first sponsor, Jamf now allows you to set up an account for free that lets you manage up to three devices at a time for free. And that's at jamf.com slash mgg. Additional devices are just $2 start at just $2 a month per device. And it's really cool because, you know, it's easy to keep track of your own Mac and know how much free space you have on your own Mac because you're using it every day, right? But what happens when you have other devices that you manage for your employees, for your customers, your clients, even family members, right? You wouldn't necessarily know that the thing was running out of space until you get that phone call that says, hey, I'm out of space. Then it's an emergency, right?  You can protect all your devices. You can check to see what's out there. You can distribute Wi-Fi and email settings. You can deploy apps. You can enforce passcodes. You can protect your company data. You can even lock or wipe the devices needed from anywhere. Jamf now lets you do it all with no IT experience needed. So as I said, start securing your business today by managing your first three devices for free. And it's up to three. So if you take one off, then there's an open slot. Three slots are free. More than after that, it starts at just $2 a month per device. Go create your free account today at jamf.com.mgg. Jamf.com.mgg are thanks to Jamf for sponsoring this episode. And with that, John, I've got some quick tips for us. Rick is going to lead us down this path. He says, I discovered a neat trick today that I've never heard of before. It has to do with the trash.  Try it and see if it works. So I tried it, John. And for some reason it didn't work. I got a beep every time I tried it. Even if I deleted a file right away, it would still beep. But once I had something in the trash highlighted, I went to the Finder menu, the Finder's file menu, I should say. And in looking there, I see that there is an option. It was, for me, it was grayed out for whatever reason. And the option is put back. And next to it, what's there? Command delete. And so it's there. But for whatever reason on my Mac, when I was trying this before, it wouldn't work. But if it does work for you, then that's great. I'd love to figure out why it wasn't working for me. But there you go. What do you think, Mr. Braun? Yeah, pretty good, right? No, I was going to mention that part. Because yeah, when you have the trash open, that will show up in the file menu.  Well, yeah, the command actually changes, right? Because if you go to the file menu, it's moved to trash is what is there. And then once it's in the trash, it's put back. So the command actually changes depending on which window you're in. And it may have some UI or UX people shaking their fists because... Yeah, it kind of makes sense though. I mean, it's, you know... Yeah, well, kind of like contextual menus, they change. Yeah, they change. So they're making it contextual. It's like, why put that there if you can't use it? Yeah. On this machine too, I can't get it to do it. I don't know. I don't know what it is. Yeah, I know. Anyway, so there you go. That's what I got. But thank you, Rick, that's great. So Jason will bring us to the next one. And Jason says, I take a ton of screenshots every day for my job that need to be immediately shared with my team over Slack. Ever since upgrading to Mojave on my work machine, I've been infuriated by the lag of the new screenshot system that shows you a preview of the image in a pop-up window forcing you to click on the desktop and hit escape before it will show up on the desktop as a file. I have finally found a solution, he says. Please share this in the quick tips so that others may not have to experience the sorrow I had to go through. To turn off, and what he found was actually an article at Tech Review, which of course is run by Jim Tannis, or as we like to call him, MGG Jim. He's been helping out with us here at Mackie Cab for years and years and years, in fact. But, and I'll put a link to that, of course. He says to turn off Mojave screenshot previews from a Mac running Mojave, use the keyboard shortcut command shift 5 to open the new screenshot utility. From the toolbar of icons at the bottom of the screen, select options. Click once to uncheck show floating thumbnail. Close the screenshot utility interface and take a new screenshot. This time your screenshot image file will be immediately saved to the location you designated and you won't see the preview thumbnail again. With Mojave screenshot preview thumbnails disabled, you can still edit screenshots after the fact if needed. Just select the file on the finder, hit spacebar to open quick look, and click the icon in the quick look toolbar that looks like a circled pencil tip, which is of course the markup icon. So thank you for sharing that, and this certainly does make your life better. But Jason, I think I'm going to make your life even better, because I have to share screenshots and Slack all day long. And my workflow hasn't changed since I launched Mojave because, while Mojave adds functionality with command shift 5, it does not take away any prior functionality with command shift 3 or command shift 4. So what I do is I use the old functionality, but I add one more thing, and I can't for the life of me remember, because my hands just know how to do it. But I think it's command control, yeah, command control shift 4 or command control shift 3 directs the resulting screenshot to be put on the clipboard. And then you can just paste it right into Slack. I do this all the time. So I will do command control shift 4. That brings up the little target thing. I can float over a window. I can hit the spacebar and do just that window, which is super handy as well. And then when it's done, it's sitting on my clipboard, I go to Slack, I paste, I don't even have to deal with cleaning up my desktop because the screenshots never get saved as files. So that's another way to do it is just use the old functionality. Don't worry about Mojaves. And then you can leave Mojave's screenshot thumbnail thing there for when you want to do command shift 5 and have some more interaction on that. So that's how I've learned to live with the whole Mojave thing with screenshots. How about you, Mr. Braun? Eh, I'm okay with the way it is. Yeah, I mean, if you're looking for optimum throughput, then I agree that the preview, where if you do something, it'll then open it up and it's like, no, no, I don't want to do that. Hey, I don't want that. Yeah, exactly. Yeah. Yeah. It's pretty good. Pretty good stuff. I like, I actually like all my screenshot functionality. It keeps life good. All right. Moving on to Keith. Keith writes, he says, I don't know if this is new or not, but I've just found something that I think is pretty cool. That, my friend, is the best description of quick tips that I've ever heard because that's exactly why we have this segment. It says in iOS photos, if you open a picture you've previously edited, now this is iOS photos, open a picture you've previously edited, you can easily see the original by tapping edit, then simply tapping again on the picture. At this point in edit mode, it toggles between the original picture and the edited version. So there you go. That's the tip. I had no idea you could do that. I don't know that I ever even stumbled onto that. So that's pretty good. Thanks, Keith. Good stuff. What do you think, Mr. Braun? Anything on that? I don't edit photos because all the photos that I take are perfect. That's awesome. I'll have to crop them sometimes. But yeah. Good stuff. I like it. No, it's good. It's fun. All right. This is another one of those things, man. So, listener Dave, he says, he sent us a tip. And the tip is how to use the finder to convert a video track to an audio track directly. And the trick is you just right click on the video and then choose encode selected video files. And he's right. Except that option might not show up for you. And so the trick is going to system preferences, go to keyboard, click on shortcuts and go to services. And in here, you will see a long list of things that you can check. And one of those things is this encode. There's actually two of them. You can choose encode as selected video files and also encode selected audio files. But there's a ton of other things out here. And it's totally worth going through this list to see if there's something that perhaps you might want to use. Apple can put things in here, obviously with the operating system. But your third party apps can also populate this list. So you can trigger things from your favorite apps if they support them. And, you know, and it just shows up there. So I always forget about this stuff. There's a ton of them for BB Edit and OpenPGP from third party stuff. And yeah, it's good. Drive Genius Secure Race shows up there on this. Uninstall with CleanMyMac 10. Like just so many different things. And I forget that they're there. So you mentioned contextual menus, John. And, you know, here's here's yet another use form. So pretty good. Yeah, it's pretty good. I like this is what I like. I like these kinds of tips. I like them. Any thoughts on this, John, before we move on to what I think is the last quick tip for the day? Nope. No, I should look into it. Well, I do frequently because a lot of, as you pointed out, I think, you know, a lot of apps. Yeah. But things in services. And often when you click on the right type of file, like a graphic file, anything that's a graphic program will throw up the services that it offers. Exactly. Yeah, like I'll do that, like, you know, with graphic converter, I'll use it to launch a slideshow. I'll click on a folder and say, well, do a slideshow. And it's like, sure. Right. Right. Yeah, see, I always forget about that. Yeah, man. That's good. The tips just keep flowing. All right. One last one. This one comes from our previously mentioned forums where Google pics, I think, is the name of this user says, are you aware of an old Mac application's repository? I have a DVD CD duplicate slash duplicator slash printer from 2005 sold by disc makers that they no longer support. My boot drive and my G5 died and my backup was corrupt. I'm hoping to find a version of describe robotics version for 5.3. Do you have any idea where to find it? And I don't know if that particular piece of software is there, but Brian Monroe, who you mentioned in the chat room, is also, of course, in the forums. And he found the site called MacintoshRepository.org. And this site is for exactly this, all this old software that's just not around, not available, not supported anymore. These people have all this stuff, as they call it, a platinum sanctuary for old software of the classic macOS era. So there you go.  It's good, right, John? Okay. It's like that endless room and Raiders of Lost Ark at the end. It is like the endless room. That's right. It's right here. Yes, that's right. All right. I want to talk about our second sponsor, which is Ops Genie, now from Atlassian. You know, I say it all the time, but things happen, right? Incidents are inevitable. The whole point of this show, the whole reason we exist is because we all have problems with our computers. It's just how it goes. Yes, they save us time, but they aren't perfect, right? And so what it comes down to is when your company has an incident, it matters how you respond, right? When something goes wrong, you need to make sure the right people know immediately that there's a problem and that someone is working on it, right? Or if someone's not, you need to know that too, and then you check in and you start working on it. This is what Ops Genie now by Atlassian does, right? Because it makes sure that everyone that needs them gets alerts immediately as soon as an incident occurs. It gives your team the power to respond quickly and efficiently, right, to these unplanned issues, and it makes sure that it notifies the right people through a smart combination of scheduling and escalation paths that take into account things like time zones. So if you're the main point of contact, but the expectation is that you would be asleep or otherwise unavailable, well, sure, let you know just in case you happen to be around, but also then start cascading down the chain and make sure the right people that can work on it right away are informed and this is what it does. It knows about things like I said, like time zones and holidays and weekends and all that stuff. And because it's part of Atlassian now, it has deep flexibility with all sorts of things, including lots of them from Atlassian, of course, but Atlassian's an open company. So they support all sorts of stuff. So integrations include things like JIRA, Amazon CloudWatch, Datadog, New Relic and more. And of course, OpsGenie tracks all your activity and provides real insight that you can look at when things are solved to help make you better equipped for future incidents. It's awesome. We've tried this here. We've used it. We use it, I should say. And it really does. We've got an offshore team in Russia. I'm here on the East Coast and Adams on the West Coast. We had a problem and it started alerting people. And it was just like it did everything it said it was going to do. And it worked. And we got the problem solved. The best part was it all happened while I was asleep. I woke up, I saw the notifications, and I saw the all good. So that was good. So check it out. With OpsGenie, your next incident doesn't stand a chance. Visit OpsGenie.com to sign up. Get a free company account that you can have up to five team members on. That's OpsGenie.com. It's totally a free account. No credit card required or anything. Just go sign up at OpsGenie.com. And you'll never miss a critical alert again. Our thanks to OpsGenie and Atlassian for sponsoring this episode. All right, John. Listener Joe has a bit of a rant for us here. And then I have something to share about his rant, John. Shall I? Good. Go. Okay. Joe says, he says, I've started my migration away from about a dozen Amazon Echoes and have been playing with my HomePod now for about three weeks. Most everything is great and superior to the Echo. He says, I like the music. I like the automation. In fact, one thing I've never heard anyone mention is that the HomePod is superior to Echo for automation in that it never loses a connection to a device. Unlike his Alexa, sorry, A-Lady, almost doing it daily. He says, and voice commands are practically instantaneous versus the A-Lady taking five to 20 seconds. But the issue is that the personal request feature on the HomePod is lame, he says. One of the main things we use the Echo 4 was adding things to grocery and shopping lists. That functionality in a HomePod is highly restrictive. As long as I'm home and the iOS that set the HomePod up, it's great and it's easy to set up and use. But once my iOS device is gone, the feature is useless. Echoes are not tied to any specific device other than themselves and your Wi-Fi. HomePod is tied to your Wi-Fi and the iOS device that is used to set it up. Worse, he says. It only works if that iOS device is present and on the same Wi-Fi network that you set up the HomePod on. It's a pain if you try routers all the time, he says. So for the nine to 10 hours a day I'm at work, my wife can't use the personal request feature like add X to the shopping list. Dumb implementation, Joe says. I tried reconnecting the HomePod to my wife's iPhone only to be told she couldn't connect via the Home app because she was not the owner of that app set up.  He says, I realize that their likely justification is security and privacy, but I say Balderdash. Apple was just lazy or have lost their mojo. Well, he continues. It seems to me that HomePod could be tied to Apple TV and they're both tied to the same physical location in Wi-Fi or the more obvious answer, let anyone you have let into your family sharing be able to interact with personal requests. He says, if you trust them with your credit card, you should be okay trusting them by reading an iMessage by mistake. And some people might disagree. He says, okay. So he says, I did send a feedback request to Apple about this. So what he highlights here, though, whether you agree with them or disagree with them, what he highlights here is the fundamental difference between HomePod and Siri and every other voice assistant platform or at least, you know, Amazon's platform and Google's assistant platform because Alexa, sorry. I'm sorry to everybody. The A lady and the G lady don't talk directly to your devices, right? They talk to the online services that then talk down to your devices. So that's why there's a little bit of lag there because that has to leave your network and come back to your network. HomeKit talks directly to your devices. And so that happens, as he said, almost instantaneously. But that also explains why your grocery list can be manipulated independently by the A lady or the G lady because they're just talking to a service. It doesn't matter what other devices are in the house. It's just linked to that service, whatever you happen to use. You could use Amazon's list service or we use our groceries at home, but it doesn't matter, right? It's just all that. And it is sort of a process. I don't want to say it's a pain, but when you get a new smart home device or something, you have to launch the Alexa, the A lady app and then go through and find the skill and add the skill and log in to the account. And really what it's doing is no different than you launching, like say for your... If you've got a TP-Link switch, right? I've got one of these. I can launch the TP-Link Casa app KSA and tap the button in the app to turn the switch on and off. It goes via TP-Link servers. It turns off the switch, turns on the switch. When I asked the A lady to turn on that switch by name, it does the same thing. It talks to TP-Link servers, which then tell the switch what's going on. So that's why... That's the fundamental difference. And your entire rant is really based on the experiential impact of that difference. But that's just how it is. It also is the reason that A... One of the reasons, it's not the only reason, but it's one of the reasons that A lady and G lady are able to interface with so many things because all people need to do is open up an API and say, yeah, sure, come on in. Doesn't matter. You know, you're good to go. And I've over trivialized that. That's that opening up an API isn't necessarily the simplest thing in the world. But chances are app developers have already done it so that their apps can do it. It's just like, all right, let's figure out a way to let the A lady interface in. And then it's good to go. So that is the difference. Yeah. But yeah, it's frustrating kind of living in both worlds because in one sense, A lady and G lady are so flexible, but there's benefits to the other side of this too. Thoughts on this, John, before we jump to the next topic, which really isn't the next topic, but anyway. I'm pretty much on the A lady bandwagon exclusively. And what I will notice as you point out, so with flexibility comes a potential lack in performance. And every now and then, like, well, you've seen this, you've been in my place. So I have a Wink2 hub and I have some bulbs in the room that you usually, or we hang out in and you sleep in. And sometimes when I tell A lady to do something with the lights, it may take, it's never taken like eons, but sometimes a second or two, or like one comes on and the other doesn't, and then eventually it does. And that's because network licensee would be, both because it's in the cloud, but then also the Wink services in the cloud as well. So it kind of has to do with a double cloud dip. And if any of those are experiencing issues, then yeah, things are not going to be instantaneous. Now, not everything is like this. Like the Hue bulbs have their own hub, and the Hue app can either talk via the cloud to the hub if you enable that and you don't have to, or it can just talk directly to the hub. And with that, of course, you Hue also works directly with HomeKit and you get that same direct interaction. So it's not an all or one, but in terms of the A lady integration, that goes via the cloud. Well, like I said, same with Wink. Wink is a cloud-based thing. I mean, the benefit is that I can access it from anywhere and it's got a little tunnel into my network for the Wink hub.  And last night I was watching some stuff on Netflix and every now and then she thinks she hears something that's telling her to do something. I almost always now, you know, we got the Tivo, but I have to go back and I'm like, what did you think you heard that made you think you should wake up and respond to it? Some of them are really bizarre. It's like, what did you hear? Yeah. Sometimes I can hear it.  Yeah. Yeah. All right. Well, along these lines here now, Patrick has something that I completely missed when it happened. And I'm not sure I would have even thought about this if I'd seen it. So he says about a month ago, Google did an update to their Google Assistant app to support Siri shortcuts. Since I have a few smart light bulbs and plugs in my house, all that are not HomeKit compatible, that's okay. You can now use Siri to control devices that are compatible with Google Assistant. Assuming you have the latest version of that app installed on your iOS device and that you have already connected your devices to Google Assistant on your iOS device, go into settings, and then go to the Assistant app preference, tap on Siri and search. You should see an option called shortcuts. If you don't see that option, that means you've never opened the Google Assistant app and have not issued a command. Once you issue a command such as, hey, G-Lady, what's the weather? Then that option should show up. Under that option, you will see some suggested shortcuts and recent shortcuts. If you don't see the shortcut that you want, you need to go back to the Google Assistant app and issue that command. Once you do that, it should show up in your recent shortcuts in the settings. You'll have to create two separate shortcuts, one for turning on and one for turning off, and Patrick has created a tutorial for us on YouTube, and so I will link to that right here on the show notes, and I'll drop it in the chat room for anybody listening at mackekeb.com slash stream. Yeah, and Brian Monroe is pointing out that you can use ift with Siri and do something very, very similar. Now you can have the best of both worlds if you want, because you get the Siri functionality with your iOS device that's with you, and you get to control things that aren't necessarily HomeKit compatible, which is cool. It's pretty good, huh, John? Absolutely. Have you done any of this? Yep. No. Oh, okay. The way you said absolutely, it sounded like maybe you had some, maybe there was more to that, so that's why I asked. Yeah, yeah. Not at this point. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah, well, you know, hey, once we, when we go to this upcoming show, I may add more facets to my environment. We'll see. Cool, cool. Yeah. That's pretty crazy, man. My life, like I'm really, I'm using a lot of smart home stuff now in a very natural way. It's pretty good. It's all pretty good. Pretty stoked about it all. Yeah, I'm good. My latest additions were smart bulbs. I think I told you that. And those I think are actually pretty cool because now they're somewhat affordable, like in the tens of dollars. Yeah. But they integrate with the smart home hubs or environments pretty well. I just thought was kind of a neat idea is that the bulb itself has the radio and the, well, probably not intelligence, but it has a radio in it. It's got, yeah, yeah. And you're doing yours with the Wink bulbs. Okay. I've got all my bulbs are Wi-Fi bulbs, and that actually works out great because then you just, just Wi-Fi, right? It's good to go. Yeah, these are, as far as I know, yeah, all the bulbs I have are Z-Wave and Wink Hub. So it's, yeah, so it's similar, using a wireless protocol to do stuff. Cool. But yeah, I like being able to operate my lights and operate my thermostats and talk to them by these means. I agree. It's the future. No, the thermostat thing is very handy, being able to use your phone to set the schedule and all of that stuff is great. And if you're out and you want to change something, no big deal, just do it. That's good. The thing I actually showed my family was just that a family thing, as most people are, because it's the season of whatever you want it to be. I showed them and I actually showed them with the phone. So I don't know how I missed this, but you can now address A-Lady directly from the iOS app. I don't think that was always the case. Not in the... It's been that way for a while, but you're right. Initially, that was not there. You had to run... There was a third-party app called Astro that you could run to do that. But I showed them. I'm like, hey, check out the smart home stuff. And I'm like, what's the temperature downstairs? Because I defined an area called downstairs. It's like, the average temperature downstairs. I mean, isn't that cool? It's worth spending some time as you get more and more of these devices. I have gotten more and more of these devices. I found that it started getting really confusing. I've got three devices. Well, I guess maybe just two devices in the living room that sense the temperature. One is my NetAppMo weather station. And then the other is an Ecobee sensor there. And it's like, okay, I need to go in and you can. You can go into the Alexa app. Sorry. You go to the devices and then you can rename things or put things in rooms. And it's actually, I found it very worthwhile to have spent whatever 10 minutes and go through that and really get it right so that I'm using the names and terms that are natural for me. And when I ask for the temperature in my living room, I want it from my Ecobee, not from my weather station. And so I've just renamed the weather station to not be just living room. I think it's living room NetAppMo or something like that. So that when I say what's temperature in the living room, I know that where I'm getting it from. And again, this is like, I mean, I guess it's not round version one of smart home. We'll call it version two of smart home. The home's not really smart. The home trains you how to interact with it, right, for the most part. It's not intuiting what you want to know.  Well, sometimes it does. Like for example, so to your point, the Wink app has a sensors category and anything that has anything that senses things. So it actually shows the three thermostats and it shows the temperature and it shows them as three temperature sensors because that's part of what they do. But if you also had NetAppMo and that happened to be downstairs, you would now have two devices, one from Wink, one from NetAppMo and the A-Lady can see both of them. You know what I mean? And so it's- Well, then you got to make the name unique enough so she doesn't get confused. And that's what I'm saying. And I have to do that with some things. Yeah, as you go into the A-Lady app and do it there and it works out. Yeah, it's good. But also the app itself. So for example, at least the Wink app, when you add a thermostat, it's like, hey, by the way, okay, you can schedule stuff, but do you want to set a high and low point? Like if the temperature, so I have it right now and I think the default is like, the temperature gets below 40. Do you want me to tell you that? And it's like, yeah, probably because that's kind of cold. Right. Oh yeah. I have mindset to tell me if it gets below 55. I don't want to play with anything. Much below that. Oh, okay. Yeah, I think. And then high temp too. But it's nice is that the, depending on the environment, that's something you may want to look for. It's like, do you want to know if your heat's out and you're going to have frozen pipes? Right. Probably. Right. Yeah, set the threshold. To me, 40 is reasonable because actually, I mean, I usually keep my thermostat. Yeah, but you have 55 degrees. I'm going to tell you why I've chosen something above 50. And it's because your thermostat is probably on an interior wall of your house, right? So your temperature sensor is way in. In order for it to get to be 40 there, it's probably going to be, you know, on the outside walls of your house, 10 degrees colder. And that's why you like, you know what I'm saying? Like, yeah. So anyway, there you go. There you go. All right. Let's, where are we here? Let's move on to, let's go to Eric. This is another fun one. So Eric says, in the last episode, 739, you discussed the Dark Reader browser extension for browsing in dark mode. Thanks to you, I am now enjoying that extension along with a few others. Honey, HTTPS everywhere and one password. What are your thoughts on the security versus convenience aspects of browser extensions and can extensions view and capture passwords and other sensitive information from browser windows? And if you have the time, what are your most valued browser extensions? All right. So, you know, I hadn't thought about this, right? But certainly some browser extensions, like one password, definitely can see your passwords.  You say yes. It knew. That's it. It knew, right? And my guess is that if some browser extensions can see your user names and passwords, then all could, in theory, we just have to trust them not to misuse that information. They can see the whole DOM, I think. They can see what site you're on. How can you possibly know the capabilities of the extensions? So, you may ask yourself, first off, how can I work this? But second, how do you know these capabilities? And I noticed this the other day. I don't think you can. Well, yes, you can. All right. Well, I looked in Safari. I'm going to hit with some serious mojo here. So if you go to the extensions portion. Yeah, I looked in Safari preferences extensions and it's all very grand. It's not granular at all. Well, what I see here, so for example, I click on last pass. And so it shows me last pass. And then it says permissions for last pass, which page contents can read sensitive information. So it's showing. Yeah, but that's the same for all of the extensions I have. Like web of trust, which should only need to see, and I don't use web of trust anymore, but I happen to have it installed. It's just not active. But it says the same thing. Web permissions for WOT. Web page contents can read sensitive information from web pages, including passwords. So everybody actually, I look at all my extensions and they all have the same message. They're all the same. At least they have a message. Correct. OK. Yeah. So it says that all of them can see everything pretty much. Which they can because they can see the whole DOM, right? So they know what site you're on and they see what you type into it. It's all there. So you got to just trust them. DOM. DOM. Do you mean document object model? I do. Yes. Sorry, I spend a lot of time with web pages. I haven't heard that in a while. Yeah. Yeah. So they tell you what they do, but it's all the same. And I think, yeah, because I don't see any difference. No, I just use the arrow keys to go up and down through extensions and only the top half of that page changes. The permissions are the same for everything. So, yeah, you really do need to trust those extensions. Don't install them willy-nilly. The only two that I use, and I did turn some off on my machine downstairs, but the only two that I use are OnePassword and Honey. As I mentioned as I was going through it, I noticed I had Web of Trust loaded. And evidently, I had it loaded up here too. I turned that off. And I had one called Amazon Assistant. And I'm not exactly sure what it does. So I turned it off. Yeah, it'll give you like notifications. I've noticed that they bug you to install it. I think it'll give you notifications for like orders and stuff like that. So I think it's mostly to send you notifications about things they think is important. And notifications are different though. This says in the description, it says, shop smarter online by knowing Amazon's best offer on products you are browsing, getting deal notifications. So there you go. And saving items to your lists or registry from any site. Please click the link above to install, et cetera. Yeah. So anyway, I turned that one off. So I use Honey because it actually is handy to find deals. But I may, you know, I wish I could like, I don't know. I wish there was a way I could like only turn it on when I want it on because that would be better. I would like that, especially knowing what we know now. Can you right click on it? No, you can't disable it from the toolbar. Okay. No, no, it's an all or nothing kind of thing. So yeah. And Brian Monroe just shared a link about Amazon Assistant, the title of which is Amazon Assistant knows all about you. So yeah, maybe, maybe I'll leave that off. But it's true, right? Every plugin knows all about you. So bear that in mind. So are you done with your list? I'm done with my list. Yeah. I'll give you my list. Let's see. I'm looking at the two machines. It's a little different. So one last pass and you have one. Hang on one second. That's cool. All right. We're back in business. I had that weird thing where my audio, it's probably my issue with using a 12-year-old mixer or something, but all back in business. So if you wouldn't mind for my benefit, what are the ones you use? So here's the extensions I'll use. So last pass to counter. So I guess you said you have one, one password. Sorry. Hang on. I think they're okay. All right. One more time. Let's see if this thing wants to continue behaving for me. All right, John. So you use last pass and? I think you mentioned honey. So I got that as well. I think you also mentioned WOT. Do you say you use that or no? Okay. Let's see if this works one last time before I start doing edits on the show. Nope. Nope. I don't think so. I don't think it wants to come back. One more time, John. Hey, how you doing? So last pass and honey you use? What else? Did you mention WOT? I did. I turned it. I mentioned turning it off. Okay. And the last one that I have, which I find kind of interesting, is called ghostory. So you use that?  And I'm like, really? So I activated it. It went to this website and sure enough, it didn't have any trackers or analytics. So ghostory lets you know who's watching what you're doing. And it's not good or bad. It's just it's informational. Sure. Yeah, of course. Our site does it. Lots of sites do it. Right. Um, I would argue mostly to your benefit, they're like, oh, what are you looking at? Oh, well, if you're looking at that, then maybe you want to look at this too. So, uh, but some people may be concerned about their privacy and they don't want things tracking them. So, you know, then this also has an ad blocker in it. Is that right? You know, it's weird because I got the legacy version and then they had a newer one that I looked at when I looked in the extension gallery and I installed it and actually I find it did, it actually didn't work properly and that it wasn't showing me. The normal operation is that when you go to a website, it gives you a little bubble in the lower right hand corner of the webpage and it shows you all the various services that are tracking or analyzing what you're doing. The new one has two components. One is the UI and one is supposed to be the blocking component, but I couldn't get it to work. So I went back to the older one. So it does have an ad blocker? Okay, yeah, okay. Well, yeah, and then it has categories.  So, yeah, that was not something in the initial version. And again, because I couldn't get the new version that's broken up into two parts to work, I went back to the old one. Got it, got it.  Yeah, you know about this. I mean, it's a tool that potentially could block our content, your content. Right, right. Yeah, I've always had a problem with ad blockers and that way it's like, you know, the price for visiting the website is allowing us to show you the ads that we wish to show you. And I totally get that some people don't want to see those and that's fine. Just don't visit the website. But to visit the website and selectively choose not to see the ads, I don't know, just doesn't sit right. I mean, all I say is that, and I've never considered using one. The thing is, if I go to a site where it throws up so many ads, typically like web versions of things. But sometimes not, like some of these, you know, clickbait articles or clickbait ads is that once you go to the page, it's like, and this is why I got ghostry, there would literally be some pages that would have like over a hundred trackers on them. And to me. So just don't visit those sites. Well, the thing is, it also slows down the performance of the, I mean, there's a point where, okay, I understand you want to present ads and make money. But if it interferes with my seeing what the heck on the page I want to see, I can't see, then bye-bye. And yeah. Right, just bye-bye. Yeah, exactly. Yeah, yeah. Of course. 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That's m-a-c.c-a-c-h-e-f-l-y.com. And our thanks to Cashfly not only for sponsoring the show but for providing all the bandwidth to get the show from us to you. All right, John. Lots of new computers being purchased now that Apple has done a refresh on two very desirable segments of the Mac line, the Air and the Mini. And in the forums, we had listener Al Medin write in and ask or post and ask, what device would you suggest in order to attach a newer tech Voyager S3 external drive as well as an OWC Mini stack simultaneously to my MacBook Pro? Both are USB 3.1 Gen 1. And that's actually incorrect. One of them is USB 3.0. But that's okay. All ports on the MacBook Pro are available to use. This is, I've got two USB up to five gigabits, firewire and Thunderbolt 2. And he says, he or she says, the scenario is when I have both external drives plugged in, one to run, I'm amazing for my iOS backups and the other to run time machine. Once completed, I want one keystroke command to eject both drives. So there was some discussion about making sure everything goes USB 3.0 just to get the best throughput and the most headroom on these. And I would go with a Thunderbolt 2 dock that gives you USB 3.0, right? The port on the Voyager S3 and Mini stack are both standard USB B ports. The Voyager is a USB 3.0. The Mini stack is a USB 3.1 Gen 1. But it doesn't matter. It ports, the port shape is USB B. So having USB A ports on your dock is what you want because very easy to get a USB 3.0 or 3.1 A to B cable. And you're good to go. In fact, your devices probably came with them. You're using OWC stuff. NewerTech is OWC is, and of course, OWC branded stuff is also theirs. So, you know, wouldn't be a bad thing to look at OWC's dock. That's the one I use down on the Mac downstairs in my office, the Thunderbolt 2 dock. The CalDigit dock would work probably just as well. It's got USB 3.0 ports on it too.    What do you think, Mr. Braun? I'm not there yet, but I agree with the USB 3.0 and the Thunderbolt aspects of what was said. And that gets something that hooks into the, yeah, the dock I think is probably the best solution. Yeah. I mean, they've got two USB ports on the Mac. You certainly could use those and forego the expense of a dock. And maybe that's okay, right? Maybe you're fine with that. That would be another option. But the dock does make life way easier. So, there you go. I'm just not hip to all this yet. Because, all right, so the latest machines have USB-C ports. USB-C. Correct. Well, sort of. I mean, the mini- USB-C Thunderbolt, right? Yeah, they'll do Thunderbolt. This is where it gets confusing to me. So like they're Thunderbolt ports, but they're USB-C ports. It's like, well, which? Nope, they're USB-C ports, right? USB-C describes the shape of the connector. The letters describe the shape, right? So B, A, that's the shape. Correct. And I understand that, A, B, and C. Yep. And then, of course, there's mini-B and all that other crazy stuff. But then you have the transmission protocols that can go over it. And that's where you get, in USB's terms, the numbers, right? USB-2, USB-3, USB-3.1 Gen 1, all of that crazy stuff. Thunderbolt does not have a connector. Thunderbolt is just a transmission protocol. And so, yes, the ports, like on the port on the MacBook is just USB-C. It is not Thunderbolt capable. But on the new MacBook Air, yes, Thunderbolt 3 on the new Mac mini. That has like gobs and gobs of ports. I think it's got four USB-A ports, two USB-C ports, Ethernet. You could get that thing and never even think about USB-C on that or Thunderbolt if you didn't want to. You've got lots of ports just right out of the box. So, yeah. Yeah, it's pretty crazy. But, yep. Yep. So, yes, indeed. Any other thoughts on that before we move on? I'm still not looking forward to it. You're still not looking forward to what? Though I looked the other day, so the thing is, both of my machines here have Thunderbolt ports. And there are. OWC does make a drive enclosure with a Thunderbolt connector. Like it has a little lightning bolt on it, so it will plug directly in. And I guess, in theory, provide either 10, 20, or I guess 30, or however many gigabits per second now throughput. Right. But I didn't find a lot of them. No, there aren't. I mean, you would only want that if you truly needed the bandwidth for that one device, right? Because otherwise, you're paying the Thunderbolt tax for no good reason. Right. Right. For a single drive, it doesn't make sense. Correct. Because, I mean, the capabilities, if it took to an array, maybe? Yeah. No.  Just a bunch of this. Just a bunch of that. Thank you. That would like make sense, because you want to have lots of bandwidth being able to go to it. And so, as long as your disks are fast enough and the JBod can handle it, then, yeah, Thunderbolt would make sense on that. But, you know, USB is pretty fast, so it too could make sense for that. But, yeah. Yeah, otherwise, yeah, it would be rare to have a single device on just Thunderbolt. So, yeah. Yeah. And, you know, the dongles and stuff, I'm actually, I'm kind of excited about it with this new air that I've got, because it gives me so much flexibility. And even on my old air, right, I used a Thunderbolt connector to get Ethernet, and I used a Thunderbolt connector to get USB3. So, I was already kind of doing this, and it's really nice to be able to have power delivery through that same port. I get that people, we don't like change, right? But I'm actually kind of excited about this change. It's so much flexibility with it. So, that's, you know, there you go. So, yeah, I look at it. We will do a, after Christmas, we'll do a segment on different docks and connectors and all sorts of things for us USB-C people. So, we'll go through that, and Thunderbolt 3 people. Yeah, well, I'm sure our friends at ODBC, among other companies at CES, are going to have all sorts of fantastic new things to show us. Yeah, well, and then we'll have that, that's right. Yep, that's right. Very cool. But we'll talk just after Christmas about stuff that you can get now, and then, of course, after CES, we'll add to the vaporware piles. So, yeah, it's good. Let's see, where are we here? Good, good. You want to take us to Conrad, John? Conrad's got a good one. Sweet. Yeah, let me get Conrad up here. Where are you, Conrad? There's Conrad. All right, Conrad. So, Conrad says, greetings. Greetings to you. Long time listener, first time writer. I'm writing you from Northern Wisconsin. You know, Packer County. Oops, I just got caught. Cheeseheads up there, isn't that what they call them? I don't know that they like to be called that, but sure, yeah. I think they do. I see them wear hats on their head with a big slice of cheese. All right, fair. Anyways, I'm using Charter Spectrum as my ISP. We have 100 megabit down and 15 megabit up. I'm using an airport Xtreme. It is the latest one with the latest firmware, et cetera, sixth generation. For my router, I'm using their Charter Spectrum cable modem. It is an Ares TM-1602, which is a DOCSIS-3 modem. My house has ranched out one level, so no problems on the bandwidth, reaching from one end to the other. The airport is sitting about in the middle of the house anyways. I have an iMac in the basement, but that is hardwired, along with two Apple TVs, which both are hardwired. So, they are out of the wireless mix. Just iPhones, iPads, and my MacBook Pro, one wireless. I was recently upgraded to the new Ultra, as Charter calls it. I now have 400 megabits down and about 25 up. Awesome. My question is, they gave me a new router with this package, no extra charge, just part of the package. I have no clue if it is better than my current airport Xtreme or not. No brand name on it, just Spectrum. Bottom line, should I swap it out or just keep everything as it is? I've attached the user manual. If you could take a look to see if I should use it or just keep trucking along with my Xtreme. And he attached a document which says on it, RAC2V1K-router.pdf. That's a good place to start digging. Okay, it's funny because I looked at this manual. And if this is provided by his ISP, all I can say, no, we're going to bring it up on the other machine here because I just noticed something about getting the right context here so I can open the manual from email. Okay, so... Everything all right? Yes. No, so I'm just looking at text on the bottom here. So the manual that they sent him, so it has that title. But the thing that concerns me is that what's on the bottom of the page of each page of the manual is it says downloaded from www.manualslib.com. Okay. And I'm like... I've gotten some manuals from there. Maybe that's where he got it from. Perhaps, but my concern is that, I mean, if his ISP is providing a manual that's downloaded from www.manualslib.com, it's like, dude, really? Well, did it have the right information in it? I mean, I'm really curious. As far as I can tell, it does, but... So my response to them was as follows. So, Conrad, I did a bit of digging and this new unit looks to be manufactured by a company called ASCII. Okay. And the cable modems are rarely manufactured by the ISP. If anything, they're co-branded. For example, the co-modem that he mentioned, the Aeros TM-1602, I have one and it says cable vision on it. Or, yeah. So the thing is that cable companies buy it from somebody else and they may co-brand it. Or like in his case, it sounds like they did it. So he says it says Spectrum on it. I'm like, yay. But it's not made by Spectrum. Who is it made by? How can you figure this out? I think was your question to me, Dave. And the thing is, it took no more than doing a simple Google search. So when I searched for the title in the manual, so if you do this, let me bring this up there. So if you search for RAC2V1K, you're going to get hit. So I don't know where that number came from, but the thing is, Dave, if you look, if you do a Google search with that term, what you'll see is that probably the fifth or sixth match is a web page at this company called ASCII, A-S-K-E-Y. So Google did all the magic. I didn't. But the thing is, when I clicked on the link to the page at ASCII, it's also called an RT4230W. The reason I believe that they're the same unit is that if you look at the graphic on the ASCII page, which I would say would be the place that you want to get the information about this, versus the image in this manual, which I believe has questionable origin, they look exactly the same. So I'm like, oh, yeah, that's what this is. Okay. And then he's like, could I use this versus my current setup? So the thing is, his current setup, so he has the same cable motor that I do, which is DOCSIS3, and I think it's capable up to, I don't know if I can do, but it certainly has enough oomph to handle your 400 service that you've been given, or 200 service, I think you said. Right, yeah, I think he went to 250 down, yeah, yeah, yeah. Or he says he now has 400 down and 25 up, that's right, yeah. Right, so the thing is, should he go from having a separate cable modem in an airport, or should he put this in place? And I would say, based on the information that I've seen about the wireless capabilities. So if you go to the ASCII page, they say right at the top here, hey, you know, this thing's great, it's an ASCII 802.11c, but it's a 4x4. And when I used our friend MacTracker, took the capabilities of Apple's product, it's only a 3x3. So they're both capable, but I would say one, and I made this decision that actually, my parents ISP did the same thing, they're like, hey, you should upgrade your crummy DOCSIS 2 modem to a DOCSIS 3 and an integrated thing from us. And I'm like, yeah, you know what? That probably makes sense. So in my humble opinion, putting everything, installing the new router is the way to go because it can give you slightly better performance. And you have everything in one place. The only thing you'd be missing, now I don't know if he has, did he say at a time cap? I mean, if he's not using it as a time capsule, if it's just a router, then I would say, put that aside for something. No, he just has an airport extreme, so there's no time capsule. And the cable modem, yeah. All right, so this would replace your cable modem and your airport. So this is an all-in-one unit as far as I can see. No, he said they gave him a cable modem and then gave him a router. The thing you're describing, this RA-C2V1K, it's just a router. It's not a cable modem. It's a separate device. But he's asking. No, I see what you're saying. You're right. Okay, so he's asking should he... Yeah, whatever would plug into this instead of his airport. Correct. And yeah, what we found in our tests is that these 4x4 routers, and you've got a test because this one is a complete unknown to us, right? But in general, 4x4 routers, where they've got 4 antennas per radio, generally, because those antennas can be tuned and tweaked by the router itself, you generally wind up getting better connections and therefore better performance because even if your device only has two antennas, it gets to pick the best two from the router, not just the two that are there or two of the three. It gets to pick two of the four. And it really does make a difference in all the tests that we've done here with various different routers. The 4x4 ones go further and faster generally speaking than the others. So yeah, no, I think that's good. Thanks, man. That's great. Okay. It wasn't clear to me if this... No, I guess it can't. I guess it is not a cable modem. No, no, that's just a router. That's what he said. Yeah, yeah. All right. While we're on the subject of cable modems, Tom writes in and he says, it looks like we'll be switching from AT&T Fiber to Spectrum Cable Internet soon, lower price and higher download speed. Fiber, he says, has better upload, but uploading has never been an issue for us. We're in Louisville, Kentucky. As an aside, I'll note, where you will care about uploads is online backups and things like photos where you're sharing to iCloud and that sort of thing. But just bearing that in mind, Tom continues, what is the best modem to use with cable internet and Eero mesh Wi-Fi? I have a 1.5 story home and use one Eero on the first floor and another on the second floor with great coverage. I've got an iMac, two iPads, two iPhones, two Apple Watches and one Apple TV. It says I've used a Zoom modem in the past when we lived in Virginia, but Zoom doesn't seem to have kept up with technology. Wirecutter recommends the Netgear CM600. Good recommendation in your experience. Is there anything better? So the short answer is that any cable modem that supports your ISP speeds will likely work just fine. That said, we like to get a little geekier here, right? So first and foremost, I kind of wanted to clear up a little confusion. Zoom is still very much making cable modems. They are sold as Motorola cable modems, but under the Motorola brand, but they are most definitely Zoom modems. And Zoom is making some of the best hardware in the business these days. They tend to over engineer the components and ensure things like extra headroom, and on the signals and do a little, something extra with the signal processing. So I've used them and I highly recommend the Zoom stuff. Now, depending on which way you want to go with this, there's two Motorola modems that I recommend if you want to stick with the Zoom-made stuff. The first would be the Motorola 7420.  I used one of these for a very long time and was very, very happy with it. If you want to step up to DOCSIS 3.1, the Motorola MB8600 would be the Zoom modem, the Zoom-made modem to do that with. You don't need DOCSIS 3.1 because you're not buying DOCSIS 3.1 service. DOCSIS 3.1 modems also have all of the DOCSIS 3.0 tech in them and they support both, but you'd be paying about double to get DOCSIS 3.1. The only benefit that you mandates that DOCSIS 3.1 modems solve the long-standing problem of a very bad queuing algorithm that's been in every cable modem since the existence. DOCSIS 3.1 modems, regardless of what mode they're up, can no longer use this crappy queuing algorithm. And what that means for you and me is we don't get buffer bloat when we are sending our online backups up and all of that stuff. The queuing algorithm really deals with that. So if you want your cable modem to solve that problem, which is the thing that causes that problem in the first place, then think about getting a 3.1 modem. However, you said you have Eero. Eero mitigates this with what they call smart queue management. We called it WANport QOS for years here. Eero calls it smart queue management. That's their WANport QOS. And it deals with this by not overloading the cable modem and not letting it hit and deal with that crappy queuing algorithm. So with your Eero, I would say you probably don't need a 3.1 modem, although these days it might be arguably, do you want that? Maybe for future compatibility. But I'd go with the Motorola 7420 or the Nettgear CM600. They're both fine modems. You had mentioned Zoom, so I went that route. But there's nothing wrong with the Nettgear CM600 either. So there you go. Any thoughts on this, John? I'm all set right now. Okay, same. I love looking at the status page of mine. So with the TM-1602, is it that I have here? They have an option. Apparently, you have to license it from the maker. But I see 24 downstream channels. And the speeds that I get, I get maximum speeds. And then I'll run a speed test on a Wi-Fi device that I will see, 200 or 180, 190. But it's like, yeah. Yeah, you should. I mean, your Wi-Fi with Eero should probably go, you've got pretty good coverage there. I mean, your Wi-Fi should go, I would say, 4 to 500 megabits a second. Well, yeah, if I had service at that level, but I don't. Right, right. But that's what I'm saying is, your Wi-Fi is not the bottleneck there. You're just the profile from your cable company is. Your cable modem is not the bottleneck either. It's just, it's set to go. Well, it is in that it's programmed by your cable company to run slower than it could, as all of ours are. That's just how it works. Yeah. Yep. Yep. Coolio. All right. Let's see where we are here. We've got some cool stuff found. Let's do that. We've got some good stuff here. Greg from Last Show chimed in. We were talking about Dark Reader, which I bought, and I know many of you bought. But Greg chimed in and he says, thanks for the suggestion on Dark Reader, but before going over to the dark side, I found there is an option that John might want to consider. While looking at the suggested problem, a program, he says, I discovered another program for just 99 cents called Simple Screenshade, which also has good ratings. And what Simple Screenshade does is it changes the brightness of your screens to match each other, and I think also does things like throughout the day so that you get some brightness changes as things dim. In the evening hours. So there you go, John. Simple Screenshade. Maybe a cool stuff found for you. Thanks for that, Greg. Good stuff. Adam over at Maccast had a great recommendation for cool stuff found. Somebody who is, we were talking about, where you could go to find workflows, aka shortcuts for to use on iOS. And there is a site set up called sharecuts.app. And we'll put a link to it in the show notes. All kinds of things that you can do, shortcuts to disable Bluetooth and Wi-Fi, shortcuts to open an Instagram page and so far. I mean, it's just everything, right? And you can search through this. There's some great stuff there. It's maintained by Guillermo Rambo, who finds a lot of cool stuff in iOS. So we know that there's going to be good stuff there. So thanks, Adam over at Maccast. Good stuff. Let's see. Moving on. Any thoughts on these before I jump us to the next one, Mr. Braun? Continue. All right, sweet. Michael jumps us back one episode with a follow-up and says, on the December 3rd show, you talked about a problem a listener had with misbehaving Wi-Fi devices connected to a TP-Link router. He says three suggestions. Number one, poke around in the admin settings of the router and look at the list of attached devices. Not sure what to look for. He says, but just review everything. Number two, specifically look at the router log or logs. That might give some indication. Number three, make a second SSID. Every router can create at least two with one being a guest network. Some routers can create more than two. He did say that with some devices powered off, everything was fine. So maybe segregating some would help. Maybe. And then he hit on number four. And I buried the lead here because I think he might be onto it. He says, check the DHCP settings in terms of the IP address range and lease time. Taking devices off the network, solving the problem indicates that maybe he ran out of IP addresses and the router couldn't assign more. And so devices could connect but not do anything. And you usually can increase the size of the pool by simply changing the range. Sometimes you'll see it'll go, the range would be from say, if the router is on 192.168.1, the range might be from .2 to .100. Or maybe it's only from .50 to .100. Expand that range and maybe that solves the problem. So I liked that little tip. That was good, right? Good stuff. Yes, Mr. Braun? Yeah, I never had to worry about that. What do I see on my Eero? It says I have 18 devices. So I'm good. But if you have more than 18 devices, the default setting of your router may not be sufficient. Yeah. And yeah, I've seen that too. Yeah, you can expand it. The router expanded too much because you never know. Have they tested the device with the pool that big and will you violently crash your router? You shouldn't. But yeah, assuming that the company that made it actually tests their stuff. That's true. Yeah, fair. Fair. I've run into some, shall we say economy products that I could tell that they didn't necessarily have robust testing. All the best testing. Yeah, I'm with you on that. I have a cool stuff found and a PSA. So a CSF and a PSA tied into one. I recently realized that it had been far more than 10 years since we moved into our house. And in fact, we moved into our house weeks before Matt Geekab started. So we bought the house weeks before Matt Geekab started. I know that it's 13 years or a little more, which means that all our smoke detectors were more than 10 years old.  So that's my PSA. After 10 years, those things are not certified to work anymore. And ours had gotten a little flaky. They were working too well. It would be my argument. And you have any chefs in the house? Of course, we cook all the time. Yeah. And so I'm guessing that's the reason for the false positives. Correct. Correct. Oh, yeah. No, like anytime we broiled something in the oven, it would just it would the thing would start going off. So but it was time, right? So here's the thing. You can go on Amazon and for like 10 bucks or less buy a smoke detector. And I bought like the homeowner special of like six of them or something for like 50 bucks and put them all in. Except I bought two that were a little different. I bought two nest protects. And the reason was twofold. I decided that while I was fine having regular smoke detectors pretty much everywhere, I wanted to have some carbon monoxide detectors. So I decided the one in two locations in the house, one by the bedrooms, and then one sort of closer down to where the boiler is. I wanted to have CO detection in them. And that brought the price from about 10 bucks to 25 if I was just buying dumb protectors. And I thought and then there was a Black Friday deal or whatever it was. And so I think for 89 bucks or something, I bought two of these. Well, 89 each. I bought two of these nest protects. And I've been really happy with them. And I mean, so far they that no false positives, but I've tested it and it works. And I will get a notification on my phone if there's a problem. But honestly, other than the fact that it hopefully protects my family and all of that, my favorite day-to-day usage feature of these nest protects is its nightlight. It's got a motion sensor in it. And it lights this very dim, but very effective nightlight.  So that nightlight is killer on these things. It's great. The whole family, every one of them, every one of my family members chimed in after I put them in. It's like, you know, that nightlight's actually pretty cool. Then my daughter came home from school and she's like, that nightlight's pretty cool. Like, I know. It's crazy. So anyway, I just wanted to throw that into CSF as the nest protect. And we'll offer, though, that's a cool thing in any regard, Dave. Yes. Because I'm looking here because I can't find the exact product here, but when they had this whole nest, so I guess when the nest came out with their smoke slash detector, at first there were a lot of false positives. For whatever reason, it was a firmware bug or some weird thing. And I was like, you know what, let me look at mine. And the thing is that the general guidance, as you pointed out, but especially for ones, so I believe the nest ones will warn you after 10 years saying, well, you know, the radioactive element and that's what's in there. So don't be scared. It's not a lot. But I think for an ionizing smoke detector, it uses radioactive material to detect that something is burning or right? Well, there's two different types of smoke detectors now. There's that kind and then there's the other, there's two different types of filters. I stuck with those. Yes, exactly. Yep. But the thing is, I actually looked, so I have kind of high-tech ones in my house, not too high-tech, but they're kiddy. I mean, it's a common brand. Yeah. But the thing is, the general rule of thumb that you should use for a smoke detector, especially who has a radioactive element, is that 10 years is a useful lifetime. Now these had the date put in them. Right. And the thing is, after 10 years, I just bought some new ones. The ones I have are slightly high-tech and that they're networked in that you can wire them together. So if one goes off, they all go off, I think with the hope that, well, if you're not in the part of the house that's burning down, we'll let you know in another part of the house so you can get out and not die. But no, it was an interesting exercise to learn about the technology here and that, yes, they will, they don't last forever. No, they don't. Most 10 years. No, and it's like, it's super cheap to replace them. If they're high-tech like this, then they'll tell you, get a new one. Right, right. But they're super cheap to replace. Like I said, it took Lucas and I, less than an hour to do, I think, eight of them in the house. We did the two nests and all the other ones. And we had to rewire them because we bought different brands on the new ones. All right, I was out. I didn't hear you, now I'm back. I noticed that you weren't hearing me, but that's okay. We all were hearing you. It's all good. All right, well, it is time to wind up with the show here, my friend. It's all good. We already told you how to find us. If you are a premium listener, premium at macgeekab.com is the address to use. And that will get to us. We do check the premium stuff first. If you want to find out how to be a premium subscriber, go to macgeekab.com slash premium. And that will get you there. We mentioned our forums at macgeekab.com slash forums. Check us out there. It's a lot of great stuff happening in that community. It's like, I look in every day and it's like, whoa, so much going on. So it's good. I want to thank all our sponsors of course cash fly, as I mentioned, for providing all the bandwidth to get the show from us to you. At Lassian with Opsgenie at Opsgenie.com and Jamf at J-A-M-F dot com slash M-G-G. Of course, smile at smile software dot com slash podcast. Otherworld computing at mac sales dot com. Barebones software and their new merch store at barebones.com. Ring at ring dot com slash M-G-G. Eero at Eero dot com slash M-G-G. Couple of other new ones coming along. It's busy around here. You keep sending in your content. We love it. It's awesome. Thank you so much for listening. John, my friend, we will talk one more time before Christmas and then two more times before the New Year. I hope you have a good week. And I hope, I hope, that you don't get caught.


Hello and welcome back to Game Day of Academy. I'm Professor Whittington. I'm the one who's in charge of this little academy It's all mine. Let me know you're here by dropping a comment down below It could be any type of comment You could tell me how nice I'm looking today or it could be an ask for help Or it could be one of the memes that I've heard so much about in the last video We set up the game over state so that when we're out of lives we can kind of reset the game It'll all it'll all happen But what we'll do in this one is find a better way of communicating that to the player So I'm going to add some game over text to our hood that will pop up when all the lives have gone So let's get stuck into that after I tell you about this video sponsor Today we've partnered up again with out-of-the-box plugins to provide the quality content you deserve This time they've come up with an incredible tool to help automate more I'm talking about the clean project and then jump plug-in designed to optimize the way you keep your project Organized and the best part is that you can get a demo for free by signing up for their newsletter with the link down in the description Now that we can make it so the player runs out of lives and there's a game over state What we're going to have to do next is communicate that to the player and we'll do that through our heads-up display So we'll go straight into our hood Into the designer and we're going to put a game over message in the middle of the screen when all the lives have gone So to get started with that I'm going to create a new text block and What I want to do is anchor that to the center of the screen And I'm going to set the position X and the position Y to zero But if you look it's still not quite in the center and the way that we're going to sort that out is this alignment So if we do zero point five and zero point five That then puts it 50% on both axes along the way of the alignment which ends up being centered That's what we want. So that's now going to stay in the center. So for the text We're going to want it to say game over and I'm going to put that all in caps because I want this to look kind of old-school So we'll do that I'm going to put a sad face in there and I want to size the The text block to the content to make sure the alignment stays where I want it So that's a good start. We've now got it saying game over but I don't think it's big enough so Let's get the the size of the text a little bit bigger and to do that We're going to drop down this font section underneath appearance and we here we can change the font If you've got other fonts installed you can change them What all I want to do here is change the size So I want to change the size to something like 60 nice and big make sure the player can't miss it What we need to do next is put a behavior on this to make it invisible most of the time and only become Visible when the player loses all their lives and for that we need to scroll down to behavior and You'll see there's a visibility section and we can bind some behavior to that So I'm going to click on bind and then go to create binding and then the return node is Interesting whether or not it's going to be visible hidden or whatever so we need to set that up But we're just going to leave this here for now Because before we can get the text to be shown or not shown we need something to trigger it So we're going to have to go back into the game mode Set up a game over variable and we're going to use that variable to then trigger whether or not the text shows So let's get the game mode open Here's my BO game mode Here's all the scripts I've got in here so far and the first thing I want to do is just create a new variable and It's going to be called game Over question mark is it game over and we'll save that and it's automatically coming as a boolean Which is what I want because this state is going to be either true or false And then what I'll do is compile this because I want the default state of this to be false And we can see that it currently is set to false So I'll leave it like that. We want this not to be the text the game over text We want it not to be on screen at the beginning of the game So anytime we start a new game. We want to make sure that this script is also set to false so here's our reset game script and The last thing I want to do now is after we've reset everything else. We're also going to set the game over to false So every time we start a new game. It's no longer game over Whenever it's game over we need to set the game over variable to true so what we're going to do is Get game over here and we're going to set it to true whenever game over happens and Then what we'll do is add a delay of five seconds So let's just set that to five Before it quits the game and we're going to change this quick game. I think in the next step to Just resetting the game so we don't have to exit the application But that should do it so game over should be the only thing that sets the game over to true Everything else should be setting it to false. So we'll compile that and that will mean that now From our heads up display we can use that game state to decide whether or not this should be visible or not So we already set this up previously so we can get to the game mode. So let's get the game mode and Then out of here. I want to get game over We need to know what that is and then that's going to become a condition on what to show So what we want to do is is game over equal to something? There we go So if game over is set to true then we want to return the visible and we're going to go Backwards a little bit on this one and out of here. We're going to create a select There it is and what this is going to do is it if this is set to true We are going to have this be visible So what we're going to do is plug the result of this into the index and That gives us basically is it true or false? So if it is false We want it to be hidden if it becomes true make it visible and that's all we're doing to set this particular bit of The heads up display up. So now we need to run out of lives and test if this is working So let's compile and save I'm going to play And now I'm going to lose some lives Okay, so I'm down to my last life. So now I've just released the ball when this ball comes back down My hope is that it will tell me it's game over which it is it'll wait five seconds, and then it will close the app Hey, and everything worked. So that brings us successfully to the end of another step. Well done for getting this far You're doing very well at this. You're making a game. Well done So in the next one what we're going to be doing according to my notes is setting up the reset game So what that will entail is just when we lose all our lives instead of quitting the app will be set It's a quick step, but it's one that we need to do. So I'll see you for that one I believe that quality education should be available to everybody and for that reason all of the classes at game dev Academy are completely free and we're supported by our very generous school governors over at patreon if you'd like to become a game Dev Academy governor and support our work as well as helping us to steer the channel in the right direction Then use the link in the description to be taken to the patreon page


In this video we introduce the various kinds of security attacks we see on the internet. We will identify which attacks exist and how these attacks relate. In particularly, we will explain the relationship between the following attacks. Traffic analysis, message disclosure, masquerade, message modification, replay, topology disclosure, unauthorized access, denial of service. Note that this video just identifies and relates these attacks. We have a series of separate videos in which we discuss each attack in detail. But before we identify the various kinds of attacks, it is important to first understand what is being attacked, thus what is the target of the attack and how the attack is performed. In principle, we can distinguish between two possible targets. First attacks that target the data flowing over the network. And second, attacks that target the systems connected to the network. These systems may belong to end users, such as PCs or laptops, but also be systems within the network, such as routers and switches. To answer the question how attacks are being performed, we may distinguish between passive attacks, in which the attacker just intercepts network traffic, or active attacks, in which the attacker injects or modifies network packets. Now that we know what is being attacked and how, we can organize the various kinds of attacks. Passive attacks on network data can be either the analysis of traffic patterns, thus finding out who communicates with whom, or the disclosure of message contents, thus reading the contents of traffic exchange over the network. Active attacks on network data include masquerade, the sending data using the identity of someone else, message modification, thus changing the contents of traffic exchange over the network, as well as replay, the sending a certain message multiple times. For attacks on end users or network systems, we distinguish between three kinds of attacks. The first is topology disclosure, such as scanning attacks to find details of the network or the connected systems. The second is unauthorized access, which starts with password attacks, for example phishing or by brute force guessing, and may end with the installation of backdoors. The third kind of attack is denial of service, in which attackers try to overload systems, services, or network links. In a number of subsequent videos, we will discuss these attacks in detail. Also note that we detailed analysis of attacks on network data is the focus of our Internet Security Protocols MOOC module, and that attacks on network systems is the focus of our Internet Security Attack and Defense MOOC module. Next to our videos, all the good sources of information are RC4949, which is a glossary of security terms as used by the ITF, Part 2 of the OSI basic reference model, which defines a security architecture for network systems, and CCITT recommendation X800, which is identical to the previous OSI security architecture, but which is freely available on the Internet.