Chapter 24. An Unpleasant Adventure When Sunday comes, Ginny and I always wear our best clothes, neither sewing, studying, nor doing any work. But we read Bible stories, learn verses, look at pictures, and keep the big music box going a good share of the time. Sometimes if it is bright and warm, I take the two children out for a ride, and Ginny likes to call upon her grandmother. The long front porch of the hotel has been opened again, the sides having been taken off, and the ice and snow cut away from the steps, so the little ones often play upon the porch and the sun for an hour or two. There are now a number of little puppies to be fed and brought up, some of them of pure Eskimo breed, and Charlie likes to frolic with them by the hour. They are very cunning, especially when Molly puts a little harness, which she has made upon each one, making them pull the sticks of wood she fastens behind in order to teach them to haul a load. Molly is frequently gone for two days hunting, and if she does not find what she looks for the first day, she sleeps upon her sled a few hours rolled in her furs, then rises and mushes on again. Far and near she is known and respected, and the name of Molly in this country is the synonym of all that is brave, true, and womanly, hunting and trapping being for an Eskimo woman some of the most legitimate of pursuits. The name of Angashiak, which means a leader of women in her native tongue, was given her by her parents as those who know her acknowledge. In severe contrast to the character of Molly is Polly, who has developed an insane jealousy of me on the children's account and who never loses an opportunity to annoy and insult me, much to my surprise. One day she will hide my books, pour soup over my dress in the kitchen, slam the door in my face, and make jeering remarks in Eskimo, causing the native boys to giggle.  However, there is another and principal reason for her ill treatment of me, which is far reaching, for Polly and Sim are cronies, and the girl does what he tells her to do, and that is to torment me as much as possible. For these reasons and others, I decided some time ago to carry my meals into the living room on a tray when I give the children theirs, especially when Molly is away. And the rough element does not feel the restraint of her presence at table. There are no other white women in the house, unless perhaps one comes in from the trail with the men for a day. And these are, as a rule, not the kind of women to inspire the respect of anyone. So I spread Charlie's and my food upon a small table, and Ginny's on her own tray, for after each little outing, she is strapped and weighted down in bed as before. And we would be very happy if it were not for Polly, Sim, and a few other tufts in the hotel and vicinity. Each day I manage, when Ginny is busy with Apoc's baby, Oh Duck Dock, the deaf girl, grandmother, and her other numerous Eskimo friends, to slip away and run out for a little fresh air and into the mission for a few minutes. Then I sit down at the organ for a while or hear of those coming and going on the trails, perhaps climbing the hill behind the mission for more exercise, before going back to Ginny. The first week in April has been pleasant and sunny for the most of the time. But last night, the eighth of the month, the thermometer, with a high wind, fell to 30 degrees below zero, and froze ice two inches thick in my room upstairs. Mr. L and B have returned from their Koyuk trip, having staked one creek upon which they found colors, and which they were informed by natives was a gold-bearing creek. Their supply of grub would not allow them to remain longer. They have staked a claim for me with the others. Number fourteen above discovery is mine, but they do not give out the name of the creek until they have been up there and staked another stream near the first one. When I get my papers recorded, I shall feel quite proud of this, my best claim, perhaps, so far. And I am thankful and quite happy. Except for the disagreeable features of hotel life, which I am always hoping will be soon changed. So long, however, as the deadly liquor is sold in almost every store and cabin, the cause of disturbances will remain, and men's active brains, continually fired with poison as they are, will concoct schemes diabolical enough to shame a Mephistopheles. Today, after due deliberation regarding the matter, I asked B, on the aside, if he would lend me a revolver. He gave me a quick and searching look. Do you want it loaded? He asked. Yes, please, and I will call after supper for it, said I in a low tone while going out the door. Early this morning, putting on my furs and carrying a small shoebox under my arm, I ran over to the mission. In the hall I was met by B, to whom I handed the box. He took it quietly and went directly to his room, reappearing in a moment and handing it back to me, saying significantly as he did so, three doses of that are better than one, if any are needed. Which remark I understood without further explanation? I have brought the box to my room and have placed it under the head of my cot upon the floor, where, in case of emergency, it may be of service. It is not a pretty plaything and will not be used as such by me, but I shall feel safer to know it is near at hand. Little did I know when I selected my room the day Molly brought me upstairs, that on the other side of the board partition slept the man who had killed another in the early winter.  And I have heard the mutterings and threats of these wretches for a number of weeks. I have been exceedingly sorry for a month past to see the preparations my friends, the Swedish women in the mission, are making to go to Nome. And now they expect to start tomorrow. They must be in town to put everything in readiness for the opening of the star when the first steamers arrive from the outside. The weather is bright and pretty cold today, making the trails good, but in a thaw they are bad and are now liable to break up at any time. Quite a party will go to Nome, Mr. L, M, and others, and they will travel with dogs. I dread to see my Swedish friends, the only white women in this camp with whom I can be friendly, leave Cinec, for I shall then be more alone than ever. If this tiresome ice in the bay would only move out so the boats could get in, we should have others. But there's no telling when that will be. Many are now betting on the breaking up of the ice, and all hope it will be very soon. May 2nd. My Swedish friends left very early today for Nome, and only Miss L from the home is there, sweeping out the place. But B and the visiting preacher will go with her to the home today, closing the hospitable doors of the mission for a time. This evening they held a meeting for the natives in camp, and I attended. But it seemed like a funeral without the friends now mushing on the Nome trail. A woman has come to live at Mellies and is a study in beaver coat, dyed brown hair, which should be gray according to her age, and with, it is reported, a bank account of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars after having lived in Alaska nearly five years. She has called a good stampeter, has a pleasant smiling face, but is usually designated notorious. May 10th. Molly went out early with Mookie, her dog team and guns, to escort Aggie Tuck, Alice, and Poonie Chara, with their mother who is Molly's aunt, to their new hunting camp in the mountains. At seven in the evening, Molly returned with wet feet. Tomorrow she will take a net and some other things they have forgotten. They have gone to take their annual spring vacation and hunt gray squirrels for a month, living in a hut in the meantime. The weather is warm and spring-like. May 13th. The captain has been obliged to go to Nome on business, weak and ill though he is, and has been for months. It did not seem to me that he could live through the winter, and he is far too weak to take this long trip over the trail, but he says he is obliged to go and will return at the earliest possible moment. He has taken Fred, the Russian boy, and a team of nine dogs, leaving after supper and intending to travel night and day as we now have no darkness. The dissipated men around camp, idle and drunken most of the time, with nothing to occupy their attention after the long, tedious winter, still spend their hours in gossiping, swearing, drinking, and gambling, knowing no day and no night, but making both hideous to those around them. As a destroyer of man's self-respect, independence, and dignity, there is nothing to compare with the accursed liquor. There are numbers of instances in camp proving the truth of this statement. There is the English clergyman's tall and handsome son, well educated, musical, and of agreeable manners, fitted to grace the best society. But liquor is to blame for his present condition, which is about as low as man can sink. It is ten in the evening, and I am in my little room upstairs, the only white woman in the camp except Mellie and two like her. Downstairs in the bar room the men are singing, first coon songs, and then church hymns, with all the drunken energy they can muster. The crash of broken glass, angry oaths, and the slamming of doors reaches my ears so frequently as to cause little surprise. The French cooks in the kitchen adding their share to the disturbance.  Mollie and the wicked little Eskimo servant being the only women besides myself in the house. The noise and confusion increases downstairs, and I shall sleep little tonight. I will look at my revolver and see that its contents have not been removed. May fifteenth.  At midnight, Sim, Mellie, and several others left for a dance at White Mountain. But it was two o'clock in the morning before the house was quiet. While I lay perfectly still and trying to sleep, a man's stealthy footstep passed my door. He walked in his stocking feet. Bare floors and walls echo the slightest sound, and my ears are keen. Was it a friend? Or foe? What was this object? My heart beat with a heavy thud, but I remembered the loaded revolver under my bed and thanked God for it. After a long time I slipped a fitful uneasy sleep for an hour, and dressed myself as usual at half past six o'clock, feeling badly for want of needed sleep. Afterwards I washed, dressed, and fed the children, amusing and entertaining them in my accustomed way. Aggie Tuck's house being closed, little Charlie is kept here all the time, Holly looking after him nights. A saloon keeper named Fitz, villainous in reality as well as in looks, is hanging around continually, wearing the blackest of looks at everyone, having been in trouble nearly all winter, and closing out his saloon a few weeks ago. A big Dutchman, burly as a blacksmith and well-soaked and whiskey, lounges about in blue denim and skull cap, winking his bleared eyes at Polly, and swearing soundly at his native wife when she steps inside the doors to look after him. All went well for a while today after Molly's leaving, Ginny coaxing to be carried to her grandmother's for a visit, to which I consented, until Charlie and I sat down to supper, which I had spread as is my habit in the living room. During the day, I had turned matters well over in mind, and decided, with Molly's advice, to sleep in her bed alongside of Ginny's cot, and to have grandmother stay with us, locking the doors of the rooms as they should be. To my consternation, when I chanced to look for the keys in the doors, there were none, showing plainly that they had been removed. This looked like a trap. There was nothing to do, much as I disliked it, but to ask for the keys, as I would never spend the night in the house without them. Soon afterward the steward entered, and I very calmly and politely asked for the door keys of the two rooms, saying that I would spend the night with Ginny. With cool insolence, he replied that he would lock them himself. Again, the trap. I made no reply. I saw that he had been drinking, that he was not himself, and that it was useless to argue with him. After waiting for an answer and getting none, the man went out carelessly, leaving the door ajar behind him. At that moment the supper bell rang, and he, with others, sat down to the table. She wants the keys to the door, she says. Drawed the man I had spoken with regarding them. What did you tell her? demanded one of the Ruffians. I told her I would lock the doors myself, said the fellow. What does she want of the keys? Who is she afraid of? Must be you, bub. Taint me, said one.  It's the genial dispenser of booze here beside me she's afraid of. I'll cedar her after supper, you bet, shouted an official voice at which I shuttered. A general hubbub now ensued. Among others I could distinguish the word Black Snake Whip, but I had heard enough. I was planning as I listened.  Sully is going to Grandma's. Throwing a light wrap over my head I ran out of the front door and around the west end of the house, careful not to pass the dining room windows where the men would see me, and hastened to Grandmother's cabin, knowing that I should there find Jenny. Grandmother lived alone except for Oduck Dock, the deaf girl, and they must give me shelter for the night. Here I found Jenny quite happy with her deaf friend sitting on the edge of the bed beside her while her grandmother was busy with her work. In a few words I explained to the old woman the situation, and I was made welcome, Jenny being pleased to remain in the cabin all night. I knew Polly would put Charlie to bed when the time came, and the boy was safe enough where he was. I did not believe the gang would disturb me in Grandmother's cabin, but I feared they would loot my room in my absence. Here Jenny could assist me. I now asked her to have Oduck Dock go out for the native named Koki and bring him to me, which she did, the deaf girl understanding by the motion of the child's lips what was being said. Oduck Dock then drew on her parky and went out. Koki, said I when the native had entered the room a few minutes later and closed the door behind him, would you go to my room, number three in the hotel, and get some things for me? Yes, was the laconic reply of the man. Here is the key of the door. Between the mattresses of the bed you will find two books, and in the shoebox on the floor there is a revolver. Bring them to me under your parky so no one shall see what you have.  You won't forget. All right, I know forget. And Koki grinned and went out. He did not forget. In about twenty minutes he returned, bringing the keys, revolver, and diaries which I had kept hidden for fear the lawless fellows might find and destroy them. I now felt much relieved. I did not think the gang would come to the cabin, but in case they did, there was the revolver. And Grandmother's two doors had locks, which if not the very strongest, were better than none, and I fastened them immediately after Koki's departure. May 18th. The night I slept in Grandmother's cabin with Jenny passed quietly for us. I slept in my clothes and mucklucks, an old quilt and fur parky on some boards being my bed. Though Grandmother finally gave me a double blanket for covering when I asked for it. It was long past midnight before we slept. The child was restless and urged her grandmother to tell her Eskimo stories. Oh, Duck-Duck slept heavily, unconscious of all around her. My own senses were on the alert. I listened intently to catch every sound. But we were too far away from the hotel to hear the carousel that I well knew was there in progress. The mushers from the dance were hourly expected home, and would then add their part to the midnight orgies. The low droning of the old Eskimo woman, telling her tales of the Inuits, of the polar bear, the seal and the walrus, of the birds, their habits and nestlings. This was the only sound I heard. After a time the other slept and I went to the window and looked out. At my right only a stone's throw away was the mission. Its windows and doors all fastened and its occupants gone. I felt a heart-sinking sensation as I thought of the friends who were there lately. Across the way was the old school house, and which were the musician, his partner and the deaf man, who had been bitten by the mad dog. They were within calling distance, and for that I felt thankful. I had dreaded the night in the cabin for fear that I should suffer for fresh air. But seeing a broken pane of glass into which some cloth had been stuffed, I removed the ladder and allowed the pure air to enter. Of course the place was synod with seal oil, but Grandmother's cabin was comparatively tidy and clean. Next morning, when we knew that breakfast was over, we went in a body to the hotel, Grandmother carrying Ginny on her back, according to Eskimo Custom. Some of the men were still sleeping off their dissipation of the night before. Nothing was said about our remaining away, and the Eskimo women spent the day with us. Others also came, called quietly in to see Ginny, and remained to the meals I was glad to give them for their company. When six o'clock arrived, and still we saw nothing of Molly, I felt anxious. If she did not return, it meant another night in the native hut for us. Eight, nine, ten o'clock. Thank God, she had come at last. I could have hugged her for joy. She had nearly one hundred ptarmigan, enough to last till the captain came home and would not leave us again alone. Later, the captain returned from Nome, having made the trip of eighty-five miles and back by dog team in four days and nights, a very quick trip indeed. The tufts have subsided and are on their good behavior for the present, at least, fearing what the captain will say and do when their last doings are reported. But I understand that most of them are mortally offended at my remaining at Grandmother's, as no one takes offense so easily as a rogue when his honesty is doubted. End of Chapter 24 Chapter 25 of A Woman Who Went to Alaska by May Kellogg Sullivan This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. This recording by Karen Cummins. Chapter 25 Stones and Dynamite The last week of May has finally come, and with it, real spring weather. The children play out in the sand heap on the south side of the house for hours together, enjoying the warm sunshine and pleasant air. The little girl clothed from head to foot in furs. Never has a springtime been so welcome to me, perhaps because in striking contrast to the long cold winter through which we have just passed. From the hillside behind the mission, the snow is slowly disappearing. First from the most exposed spots and rocks, the gullies keeping their drifts and ice longer. Mosses are everywhere, peeping cheerfully up at me in all their tents of gorgeous green, some that I found recently being tipped with the daintiest of little red cups. This, with other treasures, I brought in my basket to Jenny when I returned from my daily walk upon the hill, and together we studied them closely under the magnifying glass. To examine the treasures brought in by Molly, however, we needed no glass. They are sandpipers, ptarmigan, squirrels, and occasionally a wild goose, shot perhaps in the act of flying over the hunter's head, as these birds are now often seen and heard going north. In the evening I see from my window the neighboring Eskimo children playing with their sleds, and sometimes they light a bonfire, shouting and chattering in their own unique way. All mushers now travel at night when the trail is frozen, as it is too soft in the daytime, and the glare from the sun often causes snow blindness. Then too, there is water on the ice in places, which we are glad to see, and pools of the same are standing around the mission and schoolhouse. I can no longer go out in my mucklucks, but must wear my long rubber boots and short skirts. Today I went out for an hour, walking to Cinec Creek over the tundra, from which the snow has almost disappeared, and returned by the hilltop path. The tundra was beautiful with mosses, birds were singing, and the rushing and roaring of the creek waters fairly made my head swim. They were such unusual sounds. The water was cutting a channel in the sands where it empties into the bay. Here it was flowing over the ice, helping to loosen the edge, and allow it to drift out to sea. There is little change in the manners and dispositions of the rough men in camp. There are the same things with which to contend day after day. The same annoyances and trials to endure, with new ones in addition quite frequently. June has come at last, and all the world should be happy. But alas, there is always some worm in the bud to do the blasting. This morning, about three o'clock, I was awakened by the sound of drunken voices outside my window, followed by stones hurled against the side of the house. Quickly rising, I cautiously peeped out from behind the curtain, but was not surprised at what I saw. There, about a hundred feet away, were four men, all well known to me as members of the gang, and all in the most advanced stages of intoxication. On the step of a neighboring cabin sat the murderer, Ford, hugging in a maudlin way a big black bottle. On the ground in the dirt, there rolled two young men, the Englishmen underneath, and big bub over him. Sim, the leader, had aimed four stones at my window, but missed it, and felt the need of more stimulant, so he took the bottle from Ford, carried it to the lumber pile a few feet away, sat down, put it to his lips, and drank heavily. Again, and again, he tipped up the bottle while he drank, but finally threw it away empty. Then, with much exertion, he stooped to pick up a stone. He was aiming at my window. I dodged into a corner, but the box washstand stood partly in my way. Would he hit his mark? I did not believe it. He was too drunk. Came the stone against the house. I waited. Another followed. In the meantime, the other men had paid no attention to him as Ford was watching the two tumblers, the lumber pile being between them and Sim, and the three started for the front door around the south side of the house. Sim followed them. I now hoped he would forget his stone throwing. When they were all out of sight, I breathed more freely. Surely now the trouble was over, I thought, and I threw off my fur coat which I had hastily pulled on over my wrapper, crept into bed and covered my head with the blankets. I now thought quickly. Even if Sim should forget to throw more stones, would he not soon come upstairs and perhaps give me more trouble? Would it not be better to dress myself and be prepared for any emergency? I was hurriedly deliberating upon the matter. My head still covered with the blankets. When there was a loud crash and shivered glass covered the floor and the bed clothes. Instantly throwing the ladder back, I looked around me. I could see no stone, and I had heard none fall upon the floor, but it must be there somewhere. I now stepped carefully out of bed in order to avoid the glass. My feet already in knit wool slippers with thick warm soles. And again looked out. There was no one to be seen. Sim had done his dastardly work and gone indoors. With this in it, my teeth shattered, and I felt cold. I must keep my nerve, however, and I did so, dressing myself carefully even to my stout shoes which I laced up in front and tied. Then I drew on my fur coat and sat down to wait. Below the four men were poking around in the kitchen, trying to find something to eat or drink. It was not long before I heard them coming upstairs and all tumbled into the next room which was occupied by Ford. If they came to molest me further, there was yet one way of escape which I would try before using my revolver. The weapon I did not want to use unless driven to it. There was the staging outside my window which had never been removed since the house was built the year before. I could very easily step out upon it and walk to the end of the house, but then I must either jump or remain for there was no ladder. This staging was perhaps twenty feet from the ground and the ladder frozen. To slide down a post would tear my hands fearfully. I had not long to wait. To go peaceably to bed seemed to be the last thing these men thought of and one picked up a gun which for hunting purposes every man in the house kept close at hand. I say now, bub, put up that gun. This ain't no place for shooting. Drawed a thick sleepy voice which I recognized instantly. Such a gab. Who's hurting you? answered bub, the biggest of the four and one of the ugliest when intoxicated. Mrs. Sullivan's in the next room. You wouldn't shoot her, would you? asked Sim sneeringly in a loud tone where he could stand up under great quantities of liquor.  In a harsh whisper from bub. I was now thankful that I was dressed. I waited no longer. Opening the door I ran downstairs to Molly and the captain knocking loudly upon their door. Hang those brutes! exclaimed the captain angrily when I had finished telling him what had happened. What is the matter with them anyway? Whiskey, said I, they are all as drunk as pirates. Show me your room and window, demanded the captain who by this time had gotten into some of his clothing and stepped into the living room where I was. I then led the way upstairs and threw open my door. What a sight! Broken glass covered the floor in bed, the cool morning air pouring in through the broken pane of which there was little left in the sash. That was enough for the captain. He made straight for the next room where all was now perfectly still, only Ford remaining in it, the others having had sense enough to sneak off to their own places after hearing me run downstairs to report. Seizing my blankets I closed and locked the door and made my way downstairs to Molly. Above we could hear the captain's voice in angry altercation with the men. They denying everything of course, even the stone throwing, with the window as evidence against them. It was half past four and I had slept little. There was no fire in the house and I was cold, so throwing down a few skins in a corner of the sewing room with my blankets upon them I covered myself to get warm. At last the house was once more quiet and I slept for an hour, only to meet black and angry looks from the men all day, accompanied by threats and curses, though I said nothing to them. I picked up the stone from my reindeer rug where it had fallen after shattering the window pane and it lay only two feet from my head. It was about the size of an egg. Of course it is impossible for me to leave Chinook as the winter trails are broken up. The ice has not left the bay and no steamers can enter, so we are practically prisoners. Oh, how I long to get away from this terrible place. Never since I came to Chinook have I given these men one cross word and yet they hate me with a bitter jealous hatred such as I have never before seen. Some weeks ago I penned a slip of paper into my Bible upon which I have written the address of my parents in case anything should happen to me. Oh, to be once more safe at home with them. God grant that I may be before many months shall have passed.  Little Ginny lies and plays on the warm dry sand, though of course she does not stand on her feet nor walk. Other small Eskimos come to play with them, for Charlie is always on hand for a play spell on the sand and I doze and read under my umbrella in the meantime with an eye always upon them. They make sand pies, native egg glues, and many imaginary things and places but more than any other thing is my mind upon the coming of the steamers when I hope to get away. Molly came in last night from a seal hunt upon the ice and she with the three native boys secured a white seal and ate others but did not bring all with them. There is a great deal of water on the ice at this time and none but natives like to travel upon it. Ducks and geese are flying northward and flocks above our heads and we feast daily upon them. They are very large and tasty and the cook knows well how to serve them. We now see a line of blue water out beyond the ice and even distinguish white breakers in the distance. Today I took a field glass and climbing the hill behind the mission to look as far out as possible strain my eyes to see a steamer. As I stood upon the point to get a better view the whole world around seemed waking from a long, long sleep. At my left was Cheenick Creek pouring its rushing waters out over the bay ice with a cheerful rapid roaring. Farther away south stretched the derby cape into blue water which looked like indigo surmounted by long rolling breakers with combs of white all being fully 14 miles away to the northwest of the sandspit upon which Cheenick is built and which cuts Galovan Bay almost in two. The fish river is also emptying itself as is Kichawit Creek and other smaller streams. Overall the welcome sunshine is flooded warming the buds and roots on the hillside and making all beautiful. June 17th this is Bunker Hill Day in New England and the men have been celebrating on their own account setting off a 50 pounds box of dynamite in the neighborhood to frighten the women I suppose. The shock was terrific breaking windows lampshades and jarring bottles and other articles off the shelves. Jenny was dreadfully frightened and screamed for a few minutes while the living room soon filled with men inquiring the cause of the explosion. By and by a man came in saying that another box of giant powder would be set off but with that the marshal left the room with a determined face and we heard no more dynamiting. The men, as usual, were intoxicated. I have just had a pleasant little outing at the home going with Molly who invited me to go with her. She was going out seal hunting on the ice would leave me at the home for a short visit and pick me up on her return. Aggie Tuck and Grandmother would take good care of Jenny for so short a time and I needed the change so I ran up to my room, threw some things hastily into a small bag to take with me, locked my trunk. I had long ago put a package consisting of papers and diaries into the safe and the kind storekeepers care. Dressed myself in my shortest skirts and longest rubber boots and we started. The weather was too warm for furs and sunshine or while running behind a sled so I wore a thick jacket, black straw hat with thick veil and kid gloves. We left the hotel about half past seven o'clock in the evening but with the sun still high and warm Molly had her small sled and three dogs with Mookie and Poonie Chara in their guns. The other sled was a large one and to it were hitched seven good dogs accompanied by Ittuk and Koki. Upon the sleds were furs, guns, bags and fishing tackle. Along shore there was considerable water on the ice and a few spots the ladder had disappeared and we could see the sandy beach but farther east the ice was firmer and Molly who made for the best looking places led the way, eye running closely in her footsteps. Behind us came the men and teams the calls of the Eskimos to their dogs sounding musically on the quiet evening air. Molly and I were now leaping over water-filled cracks or lanes in the ice. She having assured me that after getting away from the shore it would be better traveling and we could ride on the sleds when we were tired but I felt considerable pride in keeping up with her and soon grew very warm from the stiff exercise, unaccustomed as I was while she was well used to it. After we had left the shore some distance behind us we halted for the sleds to come up. Molly seating herself upon the small one, I waiting for the other a little later. There I ran at the handlebars for a time but at last I threw myself upon the sled among the furs and pulled a parkie over me. We were now in the water a foot deep most of the time the dogs picking their way along over the narrowest water lanes it took and Koki shouting to them to ghee and haw and with Eskimo calls and whip snapping urging them on continually soon we left the smaller sled behind. Molly, Mookie and Poonie making the air ring with laughter and Eskimo songs. As we started out from home the sun shone brightly upon us but as we left the land at our backs and made our way farther out upon the bay the sun dropped lower and lower the sky became a mass of crimson and yellow and the whole world seemed modestly blushing. Along the east shore the rolling hills lay almost bare of snow the brown tundra appearing softly and most artistically colored to the north the mountains were still tipped with snow as was also the promontory Cape Darby at the extreme southeast point this was spotted and streaked with white its rocky cliff black and shadow by contrast. Our eyes eagerly scanned the horizon for steamers and a schooner had been reported off Darby loaded with fresh fruits and vegetables but we could not see it. By and by we were past most of the water lanes and the ice was better. At half past nine o'clock in the evening the sky was exceedingly grand and a song of gratitude welled up in my heart for this was another world from the one we had just left and I no longer wondered at Molly's love of hunting in the fresh air under the beautiful skies and with her freedom to travel wherever she liked with her I felt perfectly safe no harm could come to me when Molly led the way and my confidence in the native men was equally strong or were they not as familiar with ice and water as with land I soon saw that we were headed toward the island though I did not know why and by this time Molly was far ahead also that we were being followed by a dog team from Chinook which puzzled me for I had not heard that others were going out hunting for seal or starting for the home which was my destination when we reached the north end of the small island Molly ran up the path like a deer I following as did the natives leaving the dogs to rest upon the ice from a hole in the rocks Koki now hauled his kayak or small skin boat where he had left it from a former trip and dragging it down upon the ice he lashed it upon the small sled to be carried still farther the dog team which I had seen following in the distance had now come up with us and I heard one man say to the other there's Mrs Sullivan but I did not recognize the voice when they came nearer we found it to be two men from camp who were going out to the schooners to buy fruit and vegetables and they wanted to get a dog belonging to them which Molly had borrowed and had hitched into her team a change of dogs was then made and we started Molly and I on her big sled the other two following we now skirted the rocky cliffs and found the ice hummacky between great deep cracks where the water was no longer white but dark and forbidding sometimes Koki suddenly started the dogs to one side to avoid dark looking holes in the ice the dogs leaping over seams which quickly lay beneath us as the four and hinder parts of our sled bridged the crevasse of ugly water now the sled swayed from side to side as the dogs made sudden curves or dashes then a big hummock of ice and snow had to be crossed and one end of the sled went up while the other went down I was holding on to the side rails with both hands and knowing that the sled was a good strong one I had no fear of its breaking but my feet were cold in my rubber boots and I had drawn some furs over me Molly is not a great talker she seldom explains anything and one only has to wait and see the outcome of her movements and this I did when she suddenly with it took left the sleds and climbed the rocks of the island again on the south side then I saw them gathering sticks and small driftwood and knew that they would make a fire upon the ice at midnight while preparing to hunt for seals coming to a rough place with high piled ice between great ugly seams over which the sagacious dogs dragged the sleds always in a straight line not slant wise I climbed out and Molly and it took came with their driftwood which they threw upon the sled the two men making for the schooner forging ahead in the direction of Cape Darby it took and Mookie now made ready to go with me to the home a half mile away to the east where they were also to get some bread this important item having been forgotten in the hurry of departure from Chenick in the meantime Molly not to lose a moment of time as is her method had gotten out her fishing tackle and was already fishing for Tom Cod threw a hole in the ice fitting her beyaqua goodbye we started for the home it took politely taking my little bag and Mookie leaping lightly over the rocks toward the mainland along the shore of the island I was fearful of cutting my boots on the jagged rocks and rubble thickly strewn over the sands and had to proceed cautiously for a time but it took perceiving my difficulty led to a smoother path and we were soon on the mainland and upon the soft tundra when it was only a few minutes walk to the home it was eleven o'clock in the evening and we found the missionaries just returned from a trip to the schooner where they had secured fresh potatoes and onions the smell and taste of an onion was never so good to me before and the potatoes were the first we had seen in six months I had been in the home in the early spring for a day and now as then met with a warm welcome from the missionaries they now had doubled the number of native children they had in Chenwick and their houses large and commodious though unfinished I was assigned the velvet couch upon which I had spent a good many nights and the two natives returned to Mali after securing some bread from Miss E for their lunches next day we visited and I rested considerably finding again how good it was to be in a safe and quiet place with no fear of stone throwers or giant powder about half past 10 o'clock in the evening just after the sun had set we started on our return trip Mali having arrived with her dog teams and natives the sunset sky was exceedingly beautiful but beneath our feet we had only very bad ice and water near the island great ice cakes were floating interspersed with dark seams and lanes wider than we had before seen sometimes I rode on one of the sleds or walked ran or leaped over the waterholes to keep up with the rest until too tired and heated when I threw myself upon a sled again but as we proceeded we found firmer ice and less water Mali and I had both to ride upon one sled now for it took had lashed the kayak upon the little one and they were one dog short as an animal had run away while they were eating supper at the home finally pitting the dogs upon the large sled who seemed to have a heavy load although only one seal as they had met with little success in hunting I motioned to it to wait for me which he did it took I called as I came nearer let me ride in the kayak will you you ride in kayak ask the man in surprise yes let me get in I will hold on tight and as he made no objection I climbed upon the boat crept into the hole made for that purpose and sat down all right it took I am ready I said the man laughed cracked his whip and the dog started I had not before realized that I would be sitting so high up and that at each dip in a crack or depression of the ice when the sled runner ran a little higher than the other I should stand a grand chance of being spilled into the water but my feet were so cold in my rubber boots that I was thinking to get them under cover would be agreeable and though it took probably well knew what the outcome of my ride would be he very patiently agreed to allow me to try it we had not gone far when our dogs made a sudden dash or turn the right hand runner slipped lengthwise into a seam and over we went sled kayak woman and all upon the ice in a sorry heap the dogs halted instantly and it took who had been running on the left hand side of them came back at my call oh it took come here and help me I cannot get out of the kayak I cried lustily I will not get into it again and I rubbed my wrist upon which the skin had been slightly bruised and he assisted me to my feet the native laughed kayak no good writing feet better run he said that's so it took but my feet are very cold get to warm quick you running was his reply and we started on again when five or six miles from chinic the water became more troublesome and our progress was slow we were wading through holes leaping over seams and treading through slush and water it was colder than the night before a thin skin of ice was forming but not firm enough to hold one up I was cold and cuddled into the sled with Molly but the two natives running alongside were continually sitting upon the rail to get a short ride instead of walking thus loading the sled too heavily upon one side and we were soon all tumbled into water a foot deep as I went over I threw out my arm to save myself and my sleeve was soaked through in an instant Koki and Mookie thought it great fun and laughed and shouted in glee but to me it was a little too serious my clothes were wet through on my right side and I was now obliged to run whether I wanted to do so or not for we were fully a mile from home my gloves and handkerchief were soaked with water and I threw them away thrusting my hands into my jacket pockets and running to keep up with the others we were now wading and leaping across frequent lanes and were more in the water than upon the ice the sharp eyes of the natives had discerned the shoreline well bordered by open water and they were wondering how they would get across finally we could get no farther and were a hundred feet from the beach dogs can swim said Molly sententiously as was her habit how will you and I get on shore Molly I asked anxiously it took big man he carry you maybe answered Molly roguishly with a twinkle but I continued seriously how deep is the water anyway Koki seeing that he had been wading in to find out him not much deep we walk all right bout up here and the native placed his hand halfway between his knee and thigh to show the depth then walking a little farther down towards the hotel he seemed to find a better place and called for all to follow which we did the men waited across to the shore stepping upon stones which now and then at this point were embedded in the sand Molly boldly following their example all wore high-skinned boots coming far above their knees and water tight but my rubber boots had never been put to a test like this only coming a little above my knees where the soft tops were confined by a drawstring and this water was very cold as I had good reason to know however there was nothing to do but go on first watching the others and then plunging boldly in I drew my boot tops higher fasten the string securely picked up my short skirts and wound them closely about me but not in a manner to impede my progress and stepped in by this time the dogs and men were upon the sands and making for home only a few rods away but I took my time walking slowly in order that the water should not slop over the tops of my boots and we finally reached the beach and the house safely end of chapter 25 chapter 26 of a woman who went to Alaska by May Kellogg Sullivan this LibriVox recording is in the public domain this recording by Karen Cummins chapter 26 goodbye to Golovin Bay on the morning of the 26th of June I awoke to find that the ice had drifted out to sea in the night eight days after Molly and I had taken our 12 miles trip across the bay in return then came hard rain and wind that for several days blew the ice back into the bay first to one side and then to the other so that the steamers waiting to come in could not do so for fear of the drifting flows by the 30th of June schooners were coming into the bay with passengers and freight and the coast steamers Elmore and Dora had begun to make regular trips to and from gnome with them came males from the outside with newspapers and tidings of friends in the states then our fingers trembled at opening our letters until we found that all our dear ones were well and we heartily thank the lord there were other white women in camp by this time and many strangers at the hotel among others officials and those in authority since the stone-throwing episode the marshal had been doing duty as watchmen sleeping during the day and guarding the house nights the heavy iron bracelets in his inner coat pocket weighing scarcely more than the loaded revolver in his belt our little sick girl being obliged now to keep her bed continually with no more playing in the sand and sunshine although her cough had left her was still the same sweet patient child she had been through all her illness and my whole time was given to her before one of the sunny south windows of the living room we placed her cot each morning and here she received her numerous friends both eskimo and white and their names were legion they came from the east west north and south all sorry to know of her illness and bringing presents with them sometimes it was a little live bird or squirrel a delicious salmon trout or wild fowl for her supper sometimes it was candy nuts or fresh fruit from gnome and with everything she was well pleased and joyous friends soon came in from the outside bringing city dolls dressed in ribbons and laces there were tiny dishes chairs tables a hundred things dear to a little girl's heart and all pleased her immensely but all were laid quickly aside for a basket of wild flowers or mosses for a fish bird animal or baby showing plainly her taste for the things of nature and preference to art her love for her birthplace with its hills streams and ocean is a sincere one and young as she is and having seen the great city by the golden gate with many of its wonders she is happiest in chenic here lives her dear old grandmother her cousins and aunts not to mention the little calico capped baby belonging to apoc for which she has a whole heart full of love and the sight of which is better to her than medicine during the month of july we eagerly watched the incoming steamers and welcomed all newcomers who landed in chenic many were simply passing through on their way up fish river to the mines and praise of the land of the ofer gold was sung on all sides a few remained for the summer here men built boats and rode away to kachowik and new clerk carrying supplies for hunting or prospecting the captain's vegetable garden in the sand was growing rapidly and was watched with eager eyes by everyone we ate lettuce and radishes picked fresh from the garden beds where they had been sown by the captain's own hands and we found eggy tuck and molly to be quite famous cooks nothing so delicious as their salads for the french cook said long ago gone the hotel management being changed and molly had a nice little kitchen of her own and with fresh salmon trout wildfowl fresh meats and vegetables we made up for many months of winter dieting all this time i longed to get away i was going each day to the hilltop to watch for the steamers which would bring the letters for which i waited affairs connected with my gold claims were with much anxiety and trouble arranged as well as possible and when i boarded the steamer i would carry with me at least three deeds to as many claims with a fair prospect of others but i could not decide to remain another winner i was determined to go to st michael up the yukanda Dawson and outside and laid my plans accordingly letters from my father and brother and Dawson had been received and my heart ached when i thought of leaving the little sick girl and charlie the latter now grown willful but still so bright and pretty i wanted to take both with me but no i could not the little girl's work was not ended here is a wonderful mission and she is surely about to fulfill it born as she was in a rough mining camp at the foot of the baron hills she was given the eskimo name of yukuk meaning a little hill and she like an oasis in a desert place is left here to cheer love and help others many times i have seen evidence of the sweet and gentle influences going out from the life of little yukkuk as she lies upon her cot of pain a tall brown miner enters the living room goes to the little bed by the window speaks softly and bending over the tiny girl kisses her then her big black eyes glance brightly into blue ones looking down from above full red lips part in a cordial smile while the one solitary dimple in the smooth round cheek pricks its way still deeper and small arms go up around his neck when the man turns his face wears a soft and tender expression as though he were looking at some beautiful sight far away and perhaps he is god grant that the sweet memory of that little child's kiss may be so lasting that all their lives he and others may be purer and better men when august came i sailed away the dora had entered the bay in the morning and found my trunk packed and waiting it was then only the work of a little time to make ready to leave to my good missionary friends i had already said goodbye and the captain and molly were kindly regretful with tears in my eyes but with real pain in my heart i bade jenny goodbye and stepped into the little boat which was to carry me to the dora farewell then to chinic the home of the north wind and blizzard farewell to the ice fields of gloven so tardy and leaving in summer and to kachowic and chinic whose clear rushing water so cheered us in springtime farewell to the moss-covered hills and paths thickly bordered with blossoms farewell to my white-faced friends and to the dark-skinned ones baokwa end of chapter 26 chapter 27 of a woman who went to Alaska by May Kellogg Sullivan this LibriVox recording is in the public domain this recording by Karen Cummins chapter 27 going outside do i sleep do i dream do i wonder in doubt are things what they seem or are visions about i was now actually on my way home it was not a dream for here i was on board the snug little ocean steamer dora belonging to the alaska commercial company and i was on my way to st michael and Dawson for ocean travel our steamer was a perfect one in all its appointments being staunch and reliable with accommodating officers after taking a last look at chinic i went to my state room only one stop was made before we reached st michael that being at port den bay a new mining camp where for some hours freight was unloaded in about 22 hours from the time we left chinic we were in st michael harbour climbing down upon a covered barge which took us ashore it was nearly two years since i had first landed at this dock then in a snowstorm now in the rain then with my brother now alone not at all like gnome is this quiet little hamlet of st michael by the sea neither saloons nor disorderly places are allowed upon the island what was formerly a canteen for soldiers was now a small but tidy restaurant where i ate a good dinner of beef steak with an appetite allowable in alaska upon the streets and about the barracks were many boys in blue while the hotel parlors swarmed at dinner time with officers and their wives and daughters all richly and fashionably attired at the parlor piano two ladies performed a duet while the silken skirts of others rustled in an aristocratic manner over the thick carpet and gentlemen in dress suits and gold laced uniforms gracefully posed and chatted for my own part a little homesick feeling had to be resolutely put down as i pulled on my old raincoat and with umbrella and handbag trudged out in the darkness and rain to look for my baggage i had already secured my transportation at the steamship office where at the hands of the kindly manager of the alaska commercial companies affairs in this country i had received the most courteous treatment i could desire with little delay i found my trunk and went on board the uconn steamer tc power some months before a consolidation of the three largest transportation companies in alaska had been affected including the alaska commercial company and i was now traveling with the latter under the name of the northern commercial company but i felt a security like that of being in charge of an old and trustworthy friend and was quite content i had a long journey before me we should reach dawson in 14 days unless we met with delays but a fast rising wind warned us that we might encounter something of the sort where we were and we did for two days and nights our steamer lay under the lee of the island not daring to venture out in the teeth of the gale which buffeted us straining creaking swaying first one way and then the other we lay waiting for the storm to abate no river steamer with stern wheel and of shallow draft could safely weather the rough sea for 60 miles to the uconn's mouth and we tried to be patient early on the morning of the third day we started and for 12 hours we plowed our way through the waters with bow now deep in the trough of the sea now lifted high in midair to be met the next moment by an uprising roller which with a boom and a jar sent a quiver through the whole vessel when at last the uconn was reached another obstacle appeared and we stuck fast on a sandbar soon two other steamers lay alongside waiting as did we for a high tide to float us by night we lay in a dead calm indians and canoes came with fish and curios to sell and we watched the lights of the other steamers when the high tide came we floated off the bar but the scene was one of dull monotony and it was not until the day following that we came into the hill country and i was permitted to again see the deer trees i loved so well not one of which i had seen since leaving california at anvic there came on board a little missionary teacher bound for philadelphia who had spent seven years with the natives in this episcopal mission without a vacation and her stories were interesting in the extreme our days were uneventful a broken stern wheel enforced rest upon stand bars frequent stops at wood yards with a few moments run upon shore in which to gather autumn leaves and get a sniff of the woods this was our life upon the yukon steamer for many days after a while the nights grew too dark for safe progress and the boat was tied up until daylight russian mission to nana rampart fort yukon and the flats were passed and the days wore tediously on we were literally worming our way upstream with low water and dark nights to contend with but a second summer was upon us with warm bright sunshine and the hills were brilliantly colored one morning we approached the towering roquette rock so named by lieutenant frederick schwatka in his explorations down the yukon years before and connected with which is an indian legend of some interest this immense rock so the story runs once formed a part of the western shore of the yukon and was one of a pair of towering cliffs of about the same size and with similar characteristics here the two huge cliffs lived for many geological periods in wedded bliss as man and wife until finally family dissensions invaded the rocky household and ended by the stony hearted husband kicking his wrangling wife into the distant plain and changing the course of the great river so that it flowed between them to emphasize the perpetual divorce the cliff in the rock are still known as the old man and the old woman the latter standing in isolation upon a low flat island with the muddy yukon flowing on both sides at this time of the year the days in alaska grow perceptibly shorter and we were not surprised to find dusky twilight at five in the afternoon and to notice the eerie loneliness of the dark sweet synod woods a few hours later when the steamer laid tied to the river's bank one night after dinner a number of passengers sat idly about in the saloon of our steamer many had grown tired of cards or had lost their money and finding themselves pitted against more lucky players had called a halt and looked for other occupation miners lounged about chatting of the gold mines their summer's work and experiences big curly and his little black eyed wife listened attentively for a time the old miner was a born storyteller and knew a good yarn when he heard it the boat was tied up for the night and all was quiet around us it was the time and place for a story at last big curly hitched his chair out farther from the wall and placed his feet comfortably upon the rungs then shifting his tobacco from one cheek to the other he asked if anyone present had heard the story of nelson and the ghost no one had heard it and after some coaxing this is the tale he told the ghost of 40 mile alaska has long smiled over old indian legends but yukon men are still puzzling over the nocturnal rambles of the ghost of a murdered man in the 40 mile district following the excitement of the discovery of bonanza bar and the sensational riches of franklin gulch came the murder of an old frenchman named lasal tenana indians committed the crime in 1886 they crossed the mountains to 40 mile and killed lasal in his cabinet the mouth of obrayan creek with axes and bludgeons the old frenchman's head was crushed beyond recognition three months later the snow lay thick upon the ground upon the branches of trees that persistently hung each added layer clinging tenaciously because there was no breath of wind to send it to the ground occasionally a dead twig waited too heavily by the increasing fall of snow broke suddenly and dropped noiselessly into a bed of feathery flakes thus joining its sleeping companions the leaves it was in january that two men might have been seen following their dog teams down a frozen stream emptying into 40 mile river they wish to reach the mouth of the creek before they halted for the night they had heard of a cabin in which they planned to spend the night although it was a deserted one and they were almost at the desired point the men were swedes they were strong and hearty fellows and although frost covered their clothing and hung in icicles about their faces they ran contentedly behind the dog teams in the semi-darkness as only the snowlight remained hello called out swanson finally to his companion is that the place do you think pointing to the dim shape of a log cabin a little ahead yes it is but we'll find out i'm nearly starved and must stop soon anyway said nelson decidedly it's no use for us to travel further tonight so i think was the reply as the dogs halted before the door and the men entered the cabin here they found a good-sized room containing one window there was evidently a room on the other side but with no connecting door the two cabins having been built together to save laying one wall this is good enough for me and much warmer than a tent we'll stay here till morning and take the dogs inside said kind-hearted nelson already unhitching the dogs from a sled swanson did the same the next moment their small store was carried into the cabin wood was collected and a cheery fire soon roared up the chimney after the men had eaten their supper and the dogs had been fed pipes were brought out and stretching themselves upon their first sleeping bags before the fire the miners smoked and chatted while resting their weary limbs suddenly in the midnight stillness they heard a strange noise in the other part of the cabin someone was moaning and crying for help there was no mistaking the sound and both men were wide awake and intently listening it was the cry of someone in distress the sounds grew more blood curdling nelson unable to restrain himself longer ran outside to investigate going to the window he looked inside the sight he beheld congealed his blood and fastened him to the spot as in a trance this was the image of a man surrounded by a cloud of white mis-like phosphorescent light a deep scar standing out like a bleeding gash down the side of the head then the forgotten story of the murdered lasal came to his mind and for several minutes he was chained to the spot by the terror of the spectacle the apparition was half lying upon the floor with arm uplifted as if warding off a blow from some deadly instrument finally in the desperation of his terror nelson called his partner to come to his assistance upon the approach of his companion he summoned enough courage to step to the door at the other end of the cabin and try to open it it was held fast by some superhuman agency which allowed the door to be only partly opened swanson at the site of the ghostly visitor was not so badly overcome as his friend and having an inquisitive turn of mind wished to find if the apparition really existed he called out demanding to be told who was there but no answer came still the mysterious unearthly noises came through the cabin door no sowing of the wind could make such sounds had a tempest been blowing but a deathly stillness prevailed and no breath of air stirred then it was that swanson gathered all that was left of his fast disappearing courage and said in the name of the father son and holy spirit are you a demon man or ghost suddenly the door opened and in the uncertain misty light the apparition raised its hands to the stars as if in prayer then it grew dark and the ghostly visitor vanished as if the earth had engulfed it forever while turning this tail over in mind later i came to the conclusion which seems a reasonable one that some fortunate minor had in all probability hidden an amount of golden treasure in or about the cabin on the creek and wishing to keep others away had circulated the ghost story with good effect when eagle city was reached i telegraphed my brother to meet me at the steamer's dock in Dawson and my message was sent by one of uncle sam's boys in blue in charge of the office the town had grown considerably in the two years since i visited it and now boasted new government buildings officers quarters and a presbyterian church besides new stores and shops after cut a he and 40 mile came Dawson and we steamed up to the city's dock in the morning fog and were met by the usual multitude of people i having been 17 days out from galovan bay there among others waited my brother and his little son and my joy at meeting them was great landing it was only a walk of a few minutes to my kind old father and my brother's wife was not far away i was now practically at home for home is where our dear ones are and surroundings are matters of small moment three happy weeks followed i went everywhere and noted well the improvements in the camp since i last saw it it was now a cleaner town every way with better order good roads and bridges new government buildings post office and fine large school house new frame churches replaced the old log ones in most cases there was the governor's new palatial residence which would never be graced by the presence of its mistress as she and her babe had gone down to death a few weeks before in the island or disaster in lin canal and there was the same steady stream of gold from the wondrous clondike creeks which i was now determined to visit one bright warm day taking the hand of the small boy of the family my sister and i started for bonanza creek we were bound for the house of a friend who had invited us and we would remain overnight as the distance was five miles my kodak and three big red apples weighed little in our hands and we turned toward the clondike river in high spirits for a mile the road was bordered with log cabins on the hillside with the famous little river flowing on the other we crossed the fine ogle v bridge and soon found ourselves upon bonanza creek the stream which with the eldorado had given to the world perhaps the major part of golden clondike treasure up to this date following the trail by a shortcut we crossed shaky foot bridges rested upon logs along the trail and picked our way over boggy spots until our limbs were weary everywhere there were evidences of the industry of the miners but the claims and cabins looked deserted only in a few instances were men at work near the mouth of the creek many people were going to and from Dawson and bicycles and wagons were numerous when we reached our destination we had walked five miles in the hot sunshine and were hungry and warm but a warm welcome from Mr and Mrs M as well as a good dinner awaited us after resting a while we were shown around the premises three log cabins were being built in a row upon the hillside the one finished being already occupied by the M family tunnels were being made in the mountain by Mr M as well as other claim owners nearby and across the gulch mining operations were in full blast on the M claim preparations were being made for winter work and it was expected that a valuable dump would be taken out before spring for 300 feet one tunnel entered the mountain back of the cabins and we were invited to go into it putting on our warmest wraps with candles in hand we followed our guide the proprietor for some distance it was like walking in a refrigerator for the walls and floor of the tunnel were solidly frozen and sparkled with ice whether the bright specks we saw were always frost we did not inquire etiquette forbidding too much curiosity but from the satisfied nods and smiles we understood that it was a good claim though only recently purchased by Mr M a handful of pudgy gold nuggets being shown us which fairly made our eyes water because they did not belong to us here we lodged all night enjoying a graphophone entertainment in the evening the next morning my Kodak was brought out and before leaving for home i had several views to carry with me our walk back to Dawson was much easier than the one out to the claim from this on we made ready to leave Dawson for Seattle and were soon upon our way again i was forced to say goodbye to my father and brother though they would follow us a month later and together my sister and i stood with the little boy on the deck of the steamer waving our goodbyes we now traveled in luxury we occupied a large and elegant state room ate first-class meals and had nothing to do but enjoy ourselves to change from steamer to steam cars at Whitehorse which was now a good mining town was the work of an hour's time while a day's ride to Bennett and over to the White Pass to Skagway was a real pleasure we found the quiet little port of Skagway swarming with people rushing for the steamers and as if to give us variety we had considerable difficulty in finding our trunks in the customs house and in getting upon the steamer in the darkness of the late evening but at last it was all successfully accomplished and we took our last look at Skagway eleven days after leaving Dawson we reached our journey's end and landed in Seattle our homecoming being a source of delight to our dear waiting ones as well as to ourselves our safe arrival being another positive proof of the mercy and goodness of God end of a woman who went to Alaska by May Kellogg Sullivan this recording by Karen Cummins I invite you to visit my website at Karen Cummins.com


This is covering the spread part of the Fandall podcast network As you all know our guy ed fang is a guy of many talents and we're gonna utilize those talents not just today But for the coming weeks because Ed has World Cup numbers and talk about those for today break down What goes into that what they're saying right now? But also of course to our usual preview of this week's college football games week number 11 coming up We'll break down those big games that and get us read on the World Cup numbers as well This is covering the spread right here on the Fandall podcast network and number fire calm My name is Jim saw this. I am a senior writer and analyst for number fire calm joined here As mentioned by dr. Ed fang you can find him on Twitter at the power rank and check out his work at the power rank Dot com and Ed it is a big time a year for you. We got college football We got World Cup we got college basketball all going on along with the thing called the NFL So yeah, is he times I assume how you doing today? I'm doing pretty well. Yeah, it's always a little bit of catch up getting some college basketball code going but it is going so that's nice and members of the site you have predictions the spreads and this is a good time of year to bet college basketball and World Cup is coming up and kind of haven't touched it yet, but I still have 10 days 11 days. Yeah, so But we'll talk about some of the some of the more general stuff Since it's a nice thing that country performance tends to persist over time So we'll use that a lot for this work up Yeah, and we'll talk about what your numbers saying just kind of get an initial read on that And we'll be talking more about World Cup as the year goes along, too It's just because if we've got Ed we might as well use the full extent of his powers We'll be doing that on the show throughout this fall So it's all week 11 first in college football Then we'll go through some World Cup numbers after that But first a reminder to make sure you are subscribed to covering the spread wherever you get your podcast gave my first look at NFL week number 10 Based on what my numbers are saying yesterday here on the show We'll do a full breakdown tomorrow with a player prop preview on Friday as well get all those podcasts by Subscribing to covering the spread wherever you get your podcast and also you can get these podcasts over on the fan Dual YouTube page if you want a video version check us out over there Now is the perfect time to download fan dual America's number one sportsbook because right now new customers get a no sweat first bed up to $1,000 that's free beds back if your first bed doesn't win Trout features like same-game parlays play your way and bet on more than just the final score Wager on everything touchdowns the total yards to catches all in an app that's safe and secure And super easy to use so sign up today for your no sweat first bet Make every moment more this season with fan dual official sportsbook partner of the NFL must be 21 plus and president select states First online a real money wager only refund issued is non withdrawable free bet that expired 14 days Restrictions apply see terms that sportsbook dot fan dual comm gambling problem call 1-800 gambler or miss a fan dual comm slash RG in Arizona 1-800 next step or text next step to 533 42 In Connecticut 1-888-789-7777 or visit ccpg.org Such chat in Indiana 1-800 9 with it in Wyoming in Kansas 1-800-522-4700 in Kansas KS Gambling Health comm in Louisiana 1-877-770 stop in New York 1-877-8 hope and wire text open Why or in Tennessee call the red line at 1-888-997-89 So let's jump right in to the college football games here for a week number 11 to do a toxin world cup later on We'll start things off with LSU at Arkansas right now LSU a 3-point favorite total is 63 and a half and LSU Ed obviously got that huge win over Alabama big win there But they come back from that with a decently tough test here facing off with Arkansas as well So can LSU keep this run going and win again in a tough road spot? I Certainly think so. I think LSU has kind of been Underrated in some sense all year. We didn't really know what we were gonna get with Brian Kelly coming in and taking over this team And then it lose that opener to Florida State if you remember they got They had an extra point to tie the game at the very end and they got it blocked and lost in pretty dramatic fashion and Honestly right now. There are only other losses to Tennessee Which the score was pretty lopsided, but it was really a game where LSU kind of killed themselves in the first half They fumbled to kick off deep in their own territory give them 50 yard 58 our punt return and then fail to convert for fourth down. Sorry three for four downs in the first half So the game just got out of control The underlying metrics didn't suggest that LSU was a better team but it did suggest that it was better than the I believe the 40 to 13 score and You know it did take like a late touchdown late two-point conversion for them to beat Alabama in pretty dramatic fashion They did have a better success rate in that game overall. So my numbers actually a really good team Believe they are 10th and success rate adjusted for opponent on offense 14th on defense very strong team on both sides of the ball and You know Arkansas is a team that kind of struggled. I mean, I don't know. What else you can say when you lose It was a 14 and a half point favorite to Liberty at home If you weren't gonna reach seven and a half wins because of how tough the SEC West is Yeah, that you know, that's certainly one thing but to not be able to be Liberty at home is Is not a good thing there. They had a lot of questions on defense coming into the year They brought a lot of transfers to kind of fill in some gaps for a defense. That was pretty good last year They're hundred and third when I look at adjusted success rate You know my model tends to be aggressive. I think it's kind of capturing what we're seeing with LSU and I have them by five and a half. I like LSU minus three here. I think they win this game There's so much motivation here. They just there's really not gonna be a letdown I don't think because yeah, they have to win here and they beat Texas A&M and their SEC West champs Which is which would be a huge huge accomplishment first year for Brian Kelly. So I think they win. I don't see why they can't cover three and Maybe maybe it even gets away. Maybe it even gets away from Arkansas at home Do you feel like the Threat of a letdown is what's keeping the market kind of tepid here. It's minus one fourteen and minus three So it's not like a full minus three there But like it does seem like it's a little bit they're hesitant to fully buy in do you think the letdown argument is what's doing that I Don't know. I personally think it's kind of dumb. Yeah given all that they have to play for I mean, they're what seventh in the college football playoff. Yeah, so they're probably not making it with two losses, but and And there's you know preponderance of undefeated teams now, right? So it's so it's unlikely although one of them probably most likely is not going to be undefeated and we'll get to that in a sec, but I Don't know. I just I don't I don't see a letdown, but maybe Yeah, we'll see how that one goes down But Ed does like LSU minus three on the road against Arkansas Let's go out to the pack 12 now and talk about Washington at Oregon Oregon is a 13 and a half point favorite total of 72 and a half massive massive total here And Oregon has been playing really good football really no stumbles even since that Georgia game It's a big number though. Washington's not a bad team So are your numbers saying organ is good enough to cover a beat a big number Given what they've done since that Georgia game No, I cannot get to 13 and a half in this game. Oregon's been good. It's still I'm still kind of Wrapping my head around the reality that bow nix is a competent quarterback and and receiver. Let's not forget pass catcher as well Yeah, um So, yeah, no, I mean he's been great. He's on you know, he's he's up on these Heisman. He's up on these Heisman odds pretty high and uh I don't know. I mean it was interesting It was kind of interesting to go back to the UCLA game where Oregon won Did not have a better success rate than UCLA But one thing that ended up really changing that game was a surprise onside kick So they were able to recover one in the middle of the game They go up two touchdowns and it was it was kind of over from there So I think that's pretty interesting from a strategic point of view What the new coach Dan Lanning is doing up there Um on the other side of the ball like Washington.  I've talked about Michael Penex. How I've always really liked him as a quarterback They're very high when I look at passing success rate. I think both these teams are top five And You know, both of these teams are not as good on the defensive side of the ball At some point this season I had a bet on Washington part of the reason I think we're talking about Washington UCLA and and at that point their defensive numbers look really good Yeah, and They've kind of fallen off a cliff since then, you know, we expected Washington's defense to be good It was it was a unit that was pretty good last year. They've they've fallen off a cliff They're 64th when I look at adjusted success rate. That's not good, but but Oregon's worse. So they're they're 66 So, uh, yeah, I would I would not bet the under in this game It seems like they're going to go up and down the field A couple mistakes can kind of tip it one way the other I mean, I think Washington I would definitely lean towards Washington here. I mean, I think you know, almost two touchdowns is a lot to cover and Yeah, should be a good fun game Do you feel strong enough in the 13 and a half to actually bet that or is it more so a lean for you given? You're not getting the 14 there. Yeah, I haven't bet it yet. Yeah, if it went to 14, I think it'd be a no-brainer Yeah, um But but I haven't bet it yet. So we'll we'll we'll keep it in the lean category for now Okay, so we'll keep it on that one. It is 13 and a half right now over at vandal sports book So keep tabs on that one. Uh the It is minus 112 on the 13 and a half. So as of right now, I'm guessing it's probably not going to get to 14 But if it were to get to 14, you know, saturday morning, we see a lot of movement there Maybe that's spot to buy in before right now. Uh, just a lean on Washington plus 13 and a half Let's go now to that game you alluded to before we got tcu bringing their undefeated record on the road to texas 7 and a half point friend Spread in texas' favorite here total is 64 and a half and it seems like this is a spot where Unsurprisingly, there's deviation between the college football playoff committee and the betting markets where the college football playoff committee be grudgingly I think Buying the tcu putting them inside the top four this week betting markets. Obviously Not doing that yet relative to a very good texas team so Can tcu overcome the markets expectations and cover against texas or It's a spot where the market has the things this thing clearly pegged Yeah, I mean I have this at 7.8 points. So i'm pretty much right on where the market Lies I I don't I do think texas wins this game and you know, it's it was interesting to kind of catch up on them They've lost three games, but they've all been within one score I mean everyone remembers the single point I believe was a point that they they lost to alabama at home You know, this is a good team that is eighth when I look at adjusted success rate and offense 17th on on defense Quinn Euras is back been back for four games really struggled against oklahoma state But otherwise has been uh, pretty good bjohn robinson the running basket in almost six yards of carry um You know seems like sarke's got a pretty good football team going on You know nothing against tcu, but you know, they're they're just not uh, quite in the same ballpark and Yeah, you know, I mean they've been kind of relying on explosive plays Uh, especially against west virginia in a game, which they had worse success rate than their appointment even though they won You know it it it wasn't a close game Except it wasn't a close game by the final score because they won by 10 But it was within three for for much of the fourth quarter. So uh competitive contest and and you're gonna get those on the road in conference, but The numbers have a lot more respect for texas. I think the market's right on the ball on this I think we'll see tcu go down for the first time and and follow in those college football playoff rankings I do find it very interesting that that fandals only book. I see right now at seven and a half. Most are at seven still like, um You can find uh, tcu plus seven at minus 105 So like you could buy that potentially and like but fandal has seven and a half it seems like they're trying to get action on tcu based on that and I find that very interesting that the that we're seeing this this uh, kind of reaction and we're seeing I would assume based on that a lack of reaction from the betting public to what the the committee said, which is appropriate I'm just kind of surprised that's been the case Yeah, it is interesting. You're not getting any tcu plus seven and a half for me.  I hope i'm not butchering. I think i might have gotten his name wrong anyways the quarterback And and they they've been they've been very different this year. Just just not the same team with with new coach uh, tony ellie and and um Yeah, I mean my number's really like pit minus three and a half there on the road Uh, I've talked about not being a really big fan of pit and i'm not it's just the opponent this week Um, so that's another that's another one where fan duals off. Maybe they want the action pit Yeah, minus three and a half. I really don't know obviously not a key number there between three and a half four and a half But another interesting game where we're fandals off off market and a very liquid market a point is still a lot Even if it's not a key number And it is it was armstrong both last year and this year. So uh, brennan, uh, so I think yeah sweet. I got that right Yes, no, you got it. You're good. Um, but yeah, I think that that one is also pretty interesting Again in a market like this being a point off Regardless of the key number is interesting and the point the half point here Given seven is a key number for tc. Texas also very interesting as well. Okay Where else is seeing value for week number 11 right now ed? Yeah, this was definitely where I was going to talk about that pit virginia game. So uh Jump the gun a little bit there. Um, I also did note, uh Like my numbers do like the over in the the texas tc tcu game. I think the market's at 64 and a half right now My number is almost at 68 Um You know tcu's defense is probably Is good, but probably the worst unit on the field and uh, there there should be a lot of points in in this one So, um, that's definitely another place that I potentially I see value Yeah, the pit one is a three and a half right now a fan dual sports book as you mentioned It is four and a half a lot of other places. Let me check to see Uh, where else you can get that? Um, yeah, it's it's three and a half at fan dual There is a there are some fours out there. So there's been some Moving on to a four, but uh, it's the lone three and a half I see so if you want to bet pit a fan dual is the place to do so That is minus 110 right now on the three and a half As you mentioned the total for the tcu texas game 64 and a half your numbers have that one up at 68 Okay, let's shift now and talk about the world cup because it is 10 11 days away from the first game here and We talked about your your world soccer numbers on the show before but that was A long time ago And we've had, you know, it's a football season. So different different listenership right now So I want to go through kind of the process you go through and setting things up for this For a world cup Where are you adding that process to get things ready for when the actual games kick off in 10 or 11 days? My world soccer rankings are are actually the most visited page on my site, which I still kind of find weird It picked up some good search engine juice and and yeah, but I mean, I mean the numbers are good. I think they're accurate So what I found in world soccer is that you look at a pretty large window of games I take about a five-year window of games and a lot of the research shows that Play for the national team tends to be pretty stationary over time um Sometimes you get variations so if I actually do run some numbers that look at You know over a decade worth of games and results and brazils at the top no matter how you do it and they should be the favorite and they are the betting favorite and I think you'd find it hard to find someone that would disagree with that but You know more recently like this belgium team is second in my world rankings and This is the golden generation for belgium Players like kevin de brunas is quite simply the best playmaking Player in the world right now a place for mancity Has been really good. Uh, their second, you know They're not second when you look at the betting markets I think partially is because they have a pretty old back line also Lukaku their their striker has not been playing for enter He hasn't been playing for his club. I mean, this is a guy that was absolutely brilliant last summer when they played in euros so It's a team that does have a lot of talent there. They they have performed They might not be quite up to that standard given some of the player changes and So, yeah, so I just look at game results. I just restrict the schedule, which is hugely important in World soccer even in europe where, you know, you can get a qualifying game against san marino Who is quite simply terrible? There's there's a there's a huge range of outcomes. This is not the nfl. You really do have to just reschedule And I just restrict the schedule. I get the rankings on the site at some point. I will have Win probabilities as well for the world cup brazil will be at the top And uh, it will it will go on down from there. You know, it's interesting I mean francis third can't can't disagree with that. They are always uber talented Are they going to show up like they did in 2018 and win at all? Right, uh, are they going are they going to bow out in the group stage like they have Sometimes or actually like they did the last time they won the world cup and then went to the world cup. Yeah, that might happen, too Um, the Netherlands is fourth. I think it's a little bit high for this team. Uh, the dutch are always, uh, a nation that plays The game the way it should be played But just don't really see the offensive attacking talent on that team to kind of justify that or to be the fourth And the buddy betting markets are would agree with that as well Uh, spain is fifth super talented team. I actually think this team is very underrated um kind of in the general public And, uh, the betting markets do like them um Six is italy they didn't make it Uh, portugal seventh probably a little overrated. Uh, still a very good soccer playing nation But we're not all those old But they do they do have some significant young players So anyways, uh, I could continue to go on but it's kind of a start to the resources. Um, you know, using analytics to to kind of have One different way of looking at these teams in the world cup I also think that there's going to be a ton of other ways. Obviously the betting markets are one Um, there's another way in which you can look at salaries of the players on the teams Um, which gives you you know, it's in soccer like salaries and performance are very tightly correlated Yeah, I know. I'd actually really love to see the plot of soccer Like when winning percentage versus salary and Soccer versus baseball because baseball it's all over the place. Right And I don't really know what that means, but um But yeah, anyways, there's a different way of looking at these clubs is you know, how much they get paid on their clubs And um, oh, yeah, we should talk about the us, right? Sure. Let's do it 121. Are you biting it?  I don't think argentina is particularly good. Oh argentina We should talk about a team that I think the markets have wrong. Yeah, argentina is the second favorite to win this world cup I think that's absolutely wrong. I think they're I think they're overrated because they beat brazil in the copa america final last summer Which was a complete fluke in which to do brazil completely dominated the game and and managed to lose one nothing All the headlines were that messy fondly wins a trophy and that's great. I'm really it's great that messy wine trophy You know best player of his generation. I mean, I guess there's arguments about that but um But this argentina team is not should not have the second highest odds to to win the world cup Yeah, they have right now That is second behind just brazil plus 550 for argentina. So we're not we're not buying that it sounds what you're saying I personally am not buying it. My numbers would not buy it as well um And you know, unless he's not really near his prime by any stretch I mean, he's not like he he did not carry argentina to that win I actually thought like he wasn't particularly good in that game um He got all the accolades of right rightfully. So it was a lifetime achievement award but He wasn't good in that game. Yeah, so I would strongly disagree with argentina as the second second favorite right now So we can't bet the us 120 to 1 to win. They're plus 550 to get out of their group Obviously, I'm guessing you have not run group numbers yet because that's further down the line um, we got england What's that plus 550 uh against england is minus 250 wales plus 550. I ran is 19 to 1 550 Yeah That's to win the group. Sorry to win the group. Oh to win the group. Sorry. I mean, yeah, I said that to win the group plus 550 right So united states should be better than wales the numbers say they are I think talent wise they are There's always the wild card um of garith bale The the player for wales who's been one of the you know, one of the pyramid players in the world over the past decade except he's old And you know, he's like a player that really relied on his athleticism so I mean, they should I mean, honestly if they if they beat wales in that opening game, they're they're probably through Yeah, um, they should be at a rand and then whatever happens against england happens against england Who we're not we're not as good as england as much as it pains me to say um So Yeah, I mean, I think like, you know, I mean a lot of that relies on that first game against wales I think we probably do get out of this group and You know, I think this is a talented team, but I do have my doubts whether they can put it together I think partially part of that is because they just played so terribly in the the last two friendlies About a month ago before the world cup but It was an awkward situation in which They decided to play these friendlies in europe So they didn't have to fly all their players back home to the united states And so you had these like really uninteresting games where there was no one and it was like a covet situation right there was no fans in the stadium And Yeah, they look terrible. Yeah, they're not terrible. Yeah, they actually have a lot of really good players But But yeah, I mean don't don't bet them plus 120 to win the world cup. They're not gonna win the world cup I wasn't planning on it. I mean if they get to the if they get to the quarter finals Yeah, that would be awesome. Yeah So they're minus 105 to get out of group B Yeah, that's not right. That seems about right. Yeah, wales is plus 105 So it almost exactly mirrors what you said where it's kind of just those two fighting for that second slot And they're pretty evenly matched for the usa being a bit better and coming down to that that initial match So usa minus 105 to get out of that group at vandal sports book right now I wanted to circle back before we wrap up to belgium because you mentioned that your numbers like them Concerned about lukaku not playing 23 to 1 though seems somewhat forgiving for a team that has some concerns But does grid out really well based on your numbers So is that long enough where again? This is not based on your numbers because you're not run them yet But would you consider biting on belgium at 23 to 1? Given that may be a lot of flexibility to count for the negatives you discussed That's a great question. I would I would need to dig a little bit more into the roster My numbers are certainly going to say there's like massive massive value Yeah on belgium at that price, but you know I think there's reasons to think that the Yeah, that that they're not going to do as well So I'm going to take a rain check on that question. I'll give back to you on that next week Well, there's more time to talk this so we're all good. Yeah Um, but but I do want to mention a dark horse So I had ryanel handlin of espn on my podcast this week. He's a soccer writer He just wrote a book called net gains, which is fantastic. It's about soccer. It's about analytics If you like either of those, I think you will really enjoy the book But he gave me a dark dark horse in in denmark Uh, a very talented team, uh, one that's completely flying under the radar In terms of the public at least their 10th when I look at my numbers This is a team that got I think all the way to the semifinals of euro last year um Yeah, just the team that is is really good could sneak up on people and um Yeah, that that's a team that I would I like them a little bit more than than saying belgium is going to be your favorite Just given the personnel situation with this belgium team Yeah, uh, denmark right now at fandal is 24 to 1 to win it all So, uh, the dark horse there could be kind of intriguing right in the belgium zone So, uh, we'll have to check back in next week to see what your preference is there But as I said more world cup discussion coming up here on the show because if we've got ed We got to take advantage of all of this knowledge. Uh, once again, uh, that is all that we have here for today But fun to to start talking about the world cup with you yet I think that this is gonna be a good little journey. Maybe I'll get some uh, some soccer bets down for the first time in my life Um, I believe I don't think I've ever actually bet it So if you can talk me into it, maybe we'll have some fun with that Yeah, that sounds really good. I'm I'm not sure I've made a soccer bet since the last world cup So I'm right there with you. Um with these games with the win-loss tie probabilities or the games it is, uh You know, those markets are going to be pretty sharp Yeah, I think it's going to be important to kind of I mean certainly over the next 11 days I'm going to be looking elsewhere to find value um But it's also important with those markets that you're keeping you are like self calculating hold Because it's a lot easier to hide the hold in a market where there are three offerings available three outcomes available Then it is with a minus 110 each side for, you know, winter loser in an NFL market So I think that's the other thing to like flag here is with those um With the draw being in there make sure you are being extra vigilant about the hold you're paying Because you can get It can get bad real fast if you're not paying attention to those markets in that way Yeah, yeah, for sure.  Yeah always. Oh, you should always You should always do that for sure. But I think especially here when it's A Market maybe not all of us are betting into always just kind of keep sure you're make sure you're being vigilant on that Because it can be it can get real nasty real fast if you're not paying attention Well, that is dr. Ed Feng you can find his work over the power rank calm He alluded to those those world soccer ranks you can find those the power rank calm You can find his college basketball stuff. He mentioned college football NFL Everything all in the same place at the power rank calm ed you mentioned your podcast Work people find that and anything else going to plug for this week Yeah, the the podcast is the football analytics show. Uh, we still stuck with football Although not the the usual american football this week Football analytics show Yeah, exactly So I talked with ryan O'Hanlon who who was fantastic He's a great writer. The book is really awesome. Talk to him about the book talk to him about the world cup and It will be up on wednesday night. Okay. I don't know if it's gonna be up by the time exactly this podcast is Dropped but uh, yeah, check that out and then yeah, we'll be doing a lot of football Both american and world Over the next couple weeks at my email newsletter. So check that out at the power rank calm All right, don't forget to follow ed on twitter as well at the power rank I am on twitter at jim sonnis j i m s a n n e s We are back once again tomorrow breaking down NFL week number 10 with ryan Williams will talk to all of you then this has been covering the spread right here on the fan dual podcast network