All right everybody hello and welcome in this afternoon. Let me drop down some of that background music for a second. So welcome in today to this special edition of Retro Tech. I thought that the dogs would be finished but apparently Brutus would like to get an extra drink before we get started so if you hear any slurping in the background it's certainly him and so what we've got going on today is we're going to restore this Sony PVM and this is a 14M to MDU and thanks again everybody for being in today and I will be monitoring the chat for anybody who's live so again we're gonna get in here we're gonna restore this and to do that is gonna require us to take it apart and then we're actually going to service the circuit boards and that means we'll be replacing a bunch of capacitors and if you look down in the corner of your screen I'll switch over to another camera view for a second but these are well this is my handmade list of a specific capacitor kit for this monitor so I have a G board kit right here and then a C board kit and unfortunately these are not you know generic for every single M series there are a few variations between the M series monitors so you that's why you'll see a lot of these items scratched out and then changed up a little bit but this is the main board list and this main a board is a pretty tricky one to get out and the kit actually has 28 capacitors on the main board which that's the big chunk of the work because on this particular build out we've only got two caps on our C board which is our neck board and then eight caps on our G board so let's switch back to our main camera view here with everything on the screen so I went ahead and spent some time this morning creating this cap kit actually got all the capacitors in a fishing box here you can see in this lower hand corner picture that's one of the tricks to keeping parts separated is to store them in these fishing box kits and then you can separate your caps and it makes a little easier as you're going and installing those caps you'll know where they're coming from and so that's all ready I've got my tools all here ready so hopefully we can get through this as you can tell right now the CRT is running I have it in composite video mode to start off with here today and we have vigilante which is a game for the PC engine slash TurboGrafx 16 just a side scroller beat them up and it is one of the games that actually has a little bit of a video to run so I was letting it run and the reason I have it in composite is that way I can also show off the vector scope down there and then the waveform monitor and what I was initially doing was going through here and check in some color calibrations on the monitor and surprisingly the TurboGrafx if you have a good one and you have a good attachment that is a it's a external attachment you can add to the back of it called the spark plug if you're lucky enough to be able to get one of those it puts out a really clean composite video signal so that's reason I'm testing with it and all this today but we're going to in a second take this all apart and maybe before we do that I'll show you that what I'm doing today as far as like the actual restoration this is all like preventative maintenance to help it down the road to be able to live a long life and be used and not have any issues so we're not going to do a full like replace every single capacitor on this CRT because there's almost 500 capacitors in this and a lot of them are not going to improve our quality of video and a lot of them will last 50 years just because they're not going to get hot and so we're not going to replace all of them like I said we have the full kit here that this is the you know nine times out of ten these are the capacitors that will give you issues as you use one of these over time so we're going to do these cap kits on it and then let's just look at our 240p test suite real quickly so we can get a baseline for how this looks as it does now and if you look at our color bars the scmp color bars that turn that brightness up a little bit and so our color bars look pretty good and I know you can't see it that great on your screen but I can tell that the signal that's coming in from the TurboGrafx it's sent through this wave 4 monitor and the vector scope and that's all within a really good tolerance especially for one of the older consoles so that's just shows you that it's in really good shape it doesn't actually have any problems right now this CRT but I do need to get it recapped and that way I will feel better about it it'll be ready to go and possibly be you know sold to a patreon member so what we're going to do next is we'll start tearing this thing down and I'm going to power it off and I want to give a shout out to delusionals arcade thanks for joining me today delusional good to see again good to see Belmont got some other people here Alejandro Diaz welcome Gracia Finale welcome everybody thank you for coming again so I'm going to turn this CRT off turn the vector scope off and I've got this on a spinneroony make sure we don't knock that console off take the console get it out of the way and settle that to the side and now we've temporarily removed all our trip hazards let me get this line back up in our screen we want it and there's I've got it on like a spinning thing contraption here so you can get an easier view of things on this monitor now we'll go through a couple of important points as we start off here the first thing we're going to do is we're going to remove this shell if we just look at the back really quickly I've gone through this monitor in depth and other videos but just some ideas what we're working with today this one's from January of 2001 probably can't see that on the screen but that's that says definitely the 14 M2MDU model the thing that makes these the most desirable amongst these M series is the fact that you get two inputs down here one for component and RGB and component and RGB but that is unique to this monitor where a lot of the M series only have one line so you can't actually at least with this one you have two lines so you can set one for component and one for RGB and makes life a little bit easier there this is not like a VGA connector so don't get excited if you see this and then this is a remote control so you can plug an external remote in and then there's actually some DC 8 volt power out to power a device but again these are all communication devices with the actual um CRT it's not something that you know this is not an input down here but these are the two big inputs as far as RGB and component and then you have a line which is composite video and a line B that is S video and to disassemble this shell it is super easy and all we have to do is remove four black screws on the back here and I just pointed them out with my Sharpie but if you'll get close and look at the shell you'll actually notice little arrows on the back here so that makes it a lot easier to get those out so you have those four on the back and then we have three chrome screws to remove on each side so I'm just going to go ahead and get started by removing these screws it's always nice to have some kind of tray or something to catch your screws in so you don't just lose them but these are usually the moments that get edited out of the restoration videos we're actually just unscrewing stuff so this could take a minute or two if you don't know much about this PVM and you just happen to be catching this stream this is an analog only CRT so technically it's only going to show 480i content however 480i inputs will show 240p naturally which is the progressive low-end analog video input that everybody loves so you only get those two display modes this is that 240p and 480i but the good thing is this is a multi-regional monitor so it can do PAL, NTSC, even CKM if it's if it's in the form of composite video so that all can be read and shown on this monitor on its own it auto switches for that a GVM uh I believe I have solar service I can't remember whether it's GVM or GDM but is the GVM sorry I was looking at a question from PO17 asking if I had ever serviced a GVM does that look just like a PVM like exactly like a PVM for the most part I've not done one of those if that's it I think it's the GDM I'm thinking of that are like the PC CRTs which I have done a few of those but no one's brought a GVM in all right we're down to our last screw on the back here like sometimes people get tempted oh tempted to remove the rivets on the back of the shell and that's these black small rivets right here there's a total of six of those also please don't do that you really don't want to do that they do 480p the GVMs okay yeah I thought they looked all the same I haven't actually had anybody bring one in that's interesting I'd like to see one or get one but I don't know if that's something that wasn't as available in the United States maybe because it's not something that really has come across my uh desk very often so I want to say thanks you know a lot of people I realized from looking at the chat that you guys have been here for a bunch of the streams lately I really do appreciate you coming in and hanging out this has been a little bit of a new direction for my channel I went like three and a half years without streaming anything and then now I've gone and streamed more than making videos but I thought that um this could be a little bit more helpful I could see some technique in action a little bit more detailed you know you always see something happen live it's a little bit more exciting so now I've taken all those screws out and I've just slipped the shell back a little bit so it just slides back and then off just slide it back like that okay and then let me show you just a couple of other interesting things here on the main camera these are the rivets I was telling you about right here right in this area this one so you can actually split this in half and it will release from the uh cage that will release this plastic area from the metal shielding shell so you can do that but again I don't recommend you doing that all right get this guy out of the way and this particular M series was one that I did highlight it was one of a set of two that I had purchased goodness it's been a while um that I had purchased I've had a video on the channel so I'll make sure you link to that when I show you the re-upload so the first board we're going to service is this one right here in this cage and again I have everything unplugged but we don't have to worry about discharging it to service this board we don't have to worry about discharging the crt so we're going to pull this board first what you have here is our power supply on the side and it's always on the same side as your button on these style of pvms so if you have a 50 series etc they'll look like this or any of the m's and there's two screws up here that hold our power supply into place there we go so all you have to do then is well first off if we look at the back here this is another board we're going to service our neck board first let's disconnect this right here which is a cable holder on the back and it's got this ferrite core on it so let's remove that open that up and then there's another one lower down here we also need to open up another cable holder just so that it will be open now they're right here where my finger is let me spin that around a little more right there is a screw to this shielding this is this is a screw to the shield shielding for a ground cable and this needs to be disconnected okay so i got to get that out of the way and then that should be all the screws we need to worry about so this is an interesting question we had to come up from caesar caeno he was asking if this is an hr tube and so the interesting thing sony did was they actually considered the 600 line an hr tube for a while until they came up with the 800 line tube and pvms then they went up to 800 lines being the actual hr standard so once you have the 20 m4u introduced and then the l series that became the new hr standard if you go buy an old 1954 q it'll say hr on it though and this one does not say hr but sometimes you'll see medical monitors that's because it's an m series but if it was like the 1953 or i'm sorry 1353 it would actually say hr it would say hr tube in it so um that was just something sony did later on was add that better tube to the pvms to just lift that up and slide that out of the way like this and then we're going to disconnect these points up here first is a degausser and then that's just the switch for the front that engages the power right there and then this up here is where all your power gets converted from i'm sorry that's off the camera a little bit so i was just good disconnecting these cables right up here and then we're going to disconnect up here and this is where the voltage comes out of this crt and or out of this power supply and goes off into the monitor to help it do its different stuff then we have our last part to unplug which is our power plug and then i'm going to actually really unstable kind of on there because it's now super front heavy i'm gonna remove the spinner while we're taking out all the boards i don't topple the crt in the middle of the screen we won't need to see the front we can leave it on the back okay yeah uh it's definitely a trick that you know sony came up with a better crt later on so they they changed it to uh say the hr was better all right so again we've got our board out now if i switch around and go to our overhead view it should be a little bit better so here is the power supply and i'm going to zoom back a little bit hope it handle that a little bit okay sorry cool okay so this is our power supply and to get inside of it we need to remove the shielding plate here and then we can get in and look at the capacitors that are in the kit and so this is just you've got a screw here here a tray back over here with all our screws in it and then a final screw right here now just lift this see how this this is kind of on a hinge up here flips in that you lift it up and away until you get to about there and then you just pull it up and out not got any contraption to it it's literally just like you slip it down in there it hinges up you got to hinge it up though and then pull it straight out like that and that's our shielding plate and our power supply and here's the power supply but we need to still get this out of this plastic piece right here and to do that we have these push tabs where my thumb is and if we hold it upside down like this and we just pull these tabs in the board will slip out from under the tabs they'll release the board it's just one at a time there's four tabs in total and then this and slips out and there we have our bracket that holds our power supply in place so that's out of the way and now this is our power supply now this board is a single layer board so it's not like the a board it doesn't have components on both sides just components on the one side which is this side and well we're not concerned with every capacitor on this board these large filter capacitors are not really an issue we're not going to be worried about them now for live streaming I will discharge these capacitors because people will probably have a fit but none of these capacitors are going to be holding enough charge to really cause any damage but we can go through here and just use our little ended just our screwdriver and we'll make sure to ground all these points together and that way we can discharge all these caps that are the bigger ones and that's it there's really only about five big caps so there's the caps now the ones we're going to be interested in are more or less the smaller ones that are around these big filter caps and they're in here next to the the heat sinks also and so one of them for sure is this 632 right here this smaller one right here any of these smaller ones like 640 any of those 633 is that on the list no 633 is not on the list okay and the ones that we're avoiding are these those five so there's a couple more small ones over here and that's on our list right there 636 630 and you can also verify that your ps values on the psu cap kit matches the actual caps that you're pulling off the board that would be smart unless you've done it a hundred times like I have now these three are also going to go so there's only a total of eight on this board we're changing out three there three here and two over here so all those are marked and it should be pretty straight forward simple we're going to remove these eight capacitors now and we're going to do that by using the FR 301 HACCO desoldering tool and I just need to let this warm up for a second and while that warms up I might go in here and you know just if I need to put some fresh solder in that's always a good idea if you ever oops okay so we still on yes okay so we may let's see we're not going to hopefully need any solder on this there's a lot of extra solder on these points that we're going to be removing so we're just wait for this desoldering tool to warm up let me go back to our overhead cam and we'll get ready to remove these caps now I'll use the same tray right here to catch my caps that I'm removing and we'll see if they are looks like my tool that's preheated and is ready to go and I'm using the smallest tip that I have I'm not sure the exact size of that but it's the smaller tip on the HACCO FR 301 and I have it all the way down to one one on the setting here so pretty much the lowest as possible so I'm going to start over here in this quadrant and we'll remove these let's start with this one up here this is c640 so I'm not actually touching the board when I'm doing this I'm only trying to touch the actual legs of the capacitor and the solder and once it starts to flow I wiggle the cap with my other finger and that's how I get it out it's usually the way I do it so what we've got here is a 50 volt 10 micro farad capacitor and that is c640 so you could also come back and check it against your list and yes c640 is supposed to be a 50 volt 10 capacitor so that's one down seven to go just go for the one right next to it this one's a little bit larger but it's the same practice and that way when you wiggle the leg you know you get all the solder around it and it doesn't reattach to the board like you know it's kind of broken free and there's no solder holding it so it comes out much easier this is a 160 volt 47 micro farads which is correct according to our list here again and one more over in this zone which is next to the larger capacitor and 639 another 50 volt 10 capacitor so just try to heat that up got that one loose okay 639 or 6 yeah 3 9 this should definitely be a 50 volt 10 so let's see yep 50 volt 10 all right so far so good that's this this quadrant right here and then we'll come over to the edge this is next to our other heat sinks and we'll get this 630 right up here at the top edge get it out whoop you ever hear that hear that sound in your sleep you know you've done enough cap jobs and you start to hear the old desoldering pump action in your seat all right let's see here this one is another 50 volt 10 it's 630 50 volt 10 so matches our list 630 50 volt 10 that's great on track here everything's good now one more over here the 636 let's get it out and see what it is double check it against our guide whoops this one's a little bit more stubborn you guys not wanting to break free so easily let's get the other leg first and that one's good I see it it's broken free it's just solder didn't want to come out okay 636 is a 50 volt 47 micro farad that's correct according to our cheat sheet over here that leaves us with the last zone of three which is right in the middle of this section right here and so we'll get these three capacitors out starting with 619 for all those Ray Mysterio fans out there all right this is a little bit of a bigger one I think it's way more free it feels free and I'm going to just use my pliers to pull that 2,000 got it here it is a 50 volt 220 BM asked if this live stream is going to be uploaded yes once we're done streaming today this is going to go straight up onto the live section of RetroTech on YouTube and then you'll be able to go in there and watch the playback anytime you want now just note that it does take about a day for the episode to fully upload it takes a day for all the like live chat playback to show up and things like chapters to be able well for me to get time to add chapters and also there will be subtitles all right next is 618 618 right next to 619 small one again if they're in here get you a nice pair of pliers they're in here and these tight are to reach places just pull them out like that and this one is again let's see 618 should be a 50 volt 10 again our favorite 50 volt 10 so that's good and we have one more one more capacitor c616 which is a 47 micro farad 35 volt capacitor now we have that capacitor out it is 35 volts 47 micro farads now would you guys like me to take a second to test these capacitors with a capacitor tester I can do that and let's see you know ideally something would be reading bad but there's a plenty good chance that these caps will all read good no and some of them may have two shorter legs for me to get into the tester for example this guy this is a capacitor this this little tool is fun right here that I'm about to show you it's cheap it's on amazon and you just should be able to get two legs in I think it has to be a cross from each other that's the problem you gotta have legs long enough to lock it into holder and then you just press the button and let's see what this says no known part or damaged part interesting well maybe just maybe I doubt it though I doubt this capacitor would have been bad if it would have been bad it wouldn't have worked I just think the legs are too short for me to get a good contact in there we'll try one more time no we're not getting a good reading on that one I do have another tool it's a little bit further away let's try one of these with the longer legs the longer legs and we'll see here we'll see if it shows up as what it's supposed to be let's just stick the capacitor down in there make sure it's hold on to well this is funny all right let's try and go the other way then I should be able to get some kind of a reading on these but I was pretty sure that you had to go the other direction yeah see oh look at that I finally picked one up so here we have is our 47 sorry if you can't see that maybe I'll turn that light out for a second but this is a it's hard to see on there 47 microfarad capacitor and we have an esr of 1.5 ohms so still obviously maybe a little bit of life in there and let's try this maybe a bigger one I don't know if I can get these legs down in there and just short stumpy little legs unfortunately they're not gonna cooperate with me oh maybe maybe there we go let's try one more nope well these small caps have larger legs so I know it's kind of like a pain in the neck but this is a good tool to help you troubleshoot if you look at this one this one is a 50 what's it supposed to be so it's supposed to be 47 uf and the esr is 2.9 ohms man that's like you can get this tester on amazon bellmont if you send me a message on something i'll send you a direct link to it on some other form of social media but this this capacitor has a 2.9 ohm reading so it's much higher on the esr three ohms so that means it's in worse shape so that's a good one to a good example of one that's like really you know getting up there in ohms let's just do one more for the heck of it there are testers that can also let you do this in circuit and here's another one this is 10 micro farad we're up to um almost three ohms again now this is lower micro farad so that's not as bad usually you can have higher esr meeting or meter reading sorry all right cesar thank you for the five dollar super chat i have a capacitor tester i have a bulging capacitor that reads 89 ohms obviously it's bad but is the it is bad but is the correct value how can i figure out the correct value is it uh if 89 ohms do you so you can't read the value of the capacitor on the side of the um i wouldn't worry about the ohms just like there's a tolerance level for ohms you just need to get a capacitor that you can replace that one with so if you cannot get um if you can't get the capacitor to give you a reading on any tool i don't know what you do you need to get either the service manual that will have the exact rating for the capacitor in that spot like i have written here this is on the back of the service menu or you need to have a testers like this or something else where you can test the component and hopefully it'll tell you a digital reading like it did here even though the ohms are high it'll tell you what the value of the capacitor is uh the other way would be to read on the side but if you can't read the side then you're kind of you know up a creek without a paddle i guess we could say all right so um we're going to switch back here to the overhead cam i don't know why i just switched that camera real quickly but we'll do that cut the lights back on and uh i am trying to see about one little issue it looks like i might be having with my um streaming setup here let's hope not but we'll see this is all a new test setup so we're going to do next is we're going to get ready to install capacitors back into this and like before we do that we're going to clean this board a little bit i've gotten another couple of handy tools here nothing too crazy now somebody did ask about kind of grounding stuff and i wasn't even sure exactly what they were meaning before the stream started but just just so you know i do have a grounding strap thing that you can put around your wrist like this or heck i mean sometimes sees mine actually goes all the way to my wall but sometimes i put it around my ankle so i have like an ankle bracelet because i don't which is what i'm going to do right now i promise look at this i uh i like to do it like this because that leaves my hands free and i'm not worried about it but that literally goes to a ground for the main house and into the ground and that's how i keep myself grounded that's how i keep myself grounded so i don't introduce static electricity and zap apart here i've got some esd brushes and basically i'm going to start by just doing a one over brush on the whole board all the components and even the big capacitors i've left in there and the transformers and everything there's not much debris or dust on here i also like to inspect everything else as i'm doing this like looking at for example all these you know resistors you want to make sure that none of the legs are grounding out or touching a component and you just want to make sure everything looks fine you can also check for bad solder on these boards and that's usually not a problem so that's the first thing to do is just get that loose debris out of the way you can also use a smaller brush to get in between those hard to reach nooks and crannies you know like if you need to get in here and really get some of these components clean not saying that you would on this device or this particular board but something like our aboard is probably going to be a lot dirtier so we'll do that the last thing we'll do is we'll get some q tips some standard q tips and then i've got some unfortunately my store was out of 99 percent so i have 91 isopropyl alcohol here and i'll just take the top off dip my dip my q tip down in there and then i'll come over here and clean the tops of the pads where my components were removed make sure those are nice and clean all the places where i remove those capacitors just rub them oh that's not the right spot that's over here rub them you may get some leftover flux residue from the last time the caps were installed at the original factory uh that's really it but it's always good practice to get in here clean all these things we got these last spots over in the middle here okay that's all eight of our capacitor holes right there yep house arrest now this is an absolutely fabulous tool um to help you clean out especially if you don't have access to a high powered um like a high powered air compressor i have one upstairs but it's obviously difficult to use that downstairs this is a good for inside it also does a great job of dusting through like computers anything it's rechargeable and uh it does a great job when blown dust out of these boards can get in there it's esd safe too so it's not going to damage anything the same thing i'm going to do on the backside now i'm going to dip the opposite side of that q-tip and i'll come in here and clean on the spots where i removed those capacitors and scrub them in there a little nicely make sure you get up all eight of these points also inspect the integrity of everything and i'd like to make sure you know if possible i did no harm to the board obviously um sometimes you get the situations where there's nothing you can do about it some boards just age poorly or have a lot of stress on them and have weakened points so you might be stuck repairing something if you're not too careful or if you're not careful enough i'm sorry uh but one of the things about taking your time is just to try to make sure that do the work correctly first time okay so that's those two over there and then these three right here and then there's another section of pastors up in this area that needs to be cleaned those two out of the way you can see where sony and their factory also you know they didn't do the perfect job of cleaning these boards after they installed parts because you'll notice leftover flux residue on a lot of portions of the board but just look how much stuff came off there just a bunch of nasty stuff right there just all that is so my health has been really good thanks for asking kody dragon i appreciate it i've been doing really well so i'm happy about that too and uh we're gonna set our cleaning stuff aside for a moment and now we can get things ready to install the capacitor kit in the gboard so we don't need our cleaning stuff right now we might need to keep it handy and we should get our other capacitors ready and that's in this kit over here also got my soldering iron i'm gonna turn my desoldering gun off for a moment and talk about some stuff here that i use first off this is the kester rosin solder i use rosin core here's the stats on it 0.8 millimeter diameter and i don't know why it's doesn't it says 30 for 3.3 percent some kind of lead or something i don't know 44 i'm not i'm not too sure on that label um but this is what you want you know this kester is a good brand and you want to make sure it's the right diameter so let's get ready to hopefully install some new capacitors here's our capacitor kit we'll look at it real quick and uh we have i have separated this out into a certain way i said i used this or there's about 40 caps in here and we are looking at these these eight on this row are the ones that go to our gboard and i wish i'd gotten this tool in that friend of ours friend of mine posted on twitter uh about a week ago and i retweeted it that bends the capacitor legs so that they stay and fit nicely inside the board on their own um because that can be kind of tricky we'll move this so you can see the capacitors still appear and our kit over here on the right hand side of the screen and we'll get started um let me make sure i've got my snips here and those are good other things situated out of the way and our first capacitor 616 so let's see what we've got here we're going to do these in the zones how it's split out here here so let's start with this edge up top which is two capacitors that's 630 and 636 and that's up up here 630 and 636 let me swing that around so you can see it that way 636 is a 4750 630 is a 50 volt 10 these are the 50 volt 10s over here what i remember is correct yes so we'll put a 50 volt 10 and 630 and you want to make sure to match the long leg which is your positive leg of your capacitor with your positive marking on your board so there's a positive marking and then the negative is marked with a solid circle on the board so i'll just sit that in there for right now and then i will move on to the next capacitor which is again 636 a 47 micro farad 50 volt capacitor which is not that one it's going to be one of these two right here the thicker of these two yep here it is 50 volt 47 micro farad same thing as before that longer leg on the capacitor is the positive lead so i just push that through there and i'll bend those legs out real quickly and you can see how they sit like this and then we'll we'll try to get them started into place and let's see um what happens when i do something hang on i need to unplug an item there we go let's see all right cool yeah i think i was draining my power's outlet with one too many things if i have everything hooked up including the stream so thankfully my soldering iron is coming on now and what i'm using is the HACCO FX951 another ESD safe soldering iron it's one of my favorite tools no just looking at this amazing tip on here really fine tip there love this thing so what i'm going to do is i'm going to come in here and tack in to place these capacitors now this is the kind of job we don't really need to add any flux if you're if you are uncomfortable doing this then you can definitely add some flux but all that's going to do is kind of increase your cleanup time now this is set to 750 degrees fahrenheit so i'll just come in here and tack this into place just one of these legs to begin with do that and uh with the way out the reason i'm doing it like this is i'm just tacking it in and then i'm going to come back in a second and finish the the whole point up here differently so i want to make sure that i can get those capacitor legs straightened so they're just kind of held in place right now that's obviously not our final solder that we're going to put on there so just snip those sets of legs out of the way now this is something you want to make sure to do do not go back and solder the same leg you tacked in to hold this into place with first you need to tack in the leg opposite of that because if you heat up the one you just heat heat it up you'll your part will fall through you'll have to redo it it's a little bit trickier once you cut this ends off there's the one capacitor and we'll take a closer look at it here in a second there's capacitor number two and i'm doing this far away i do have a big noisy fan that i could be running but hopefully we can get away with not having to worry about that on this particular job just heat those up make sure that solder is good and float on those components that's our first two components let's make sure that everything looks good so i'm looking inspecting i'm going to show you here we'll come back and clean all these points at the end but this is 630 those nice good clean solder points on there and then over here 636 and then if we look over on the other side capacitors you don't have to be perfectly lined up with the base of anything but you want to be pretty uniform with the other components so there we go great excellent so two down six to go do these next six a little bit quicker but at the same time i always love to go back and make sure that everything is done correctly so we'll check 636 off our list and 630 and we'll move on to our next capacitor cluster which i will choose to be this one above a large filter cap up here there's three caps that go where my finger is right in here so we'll thread those through first one right here one right here one right here uh we'll thread those three and then we'll tack them into place and install them i do believe this 160 by 47 is one of them yes it's c632 looking for that positive marking and we're going to stick our longer leg through that hole and then we're gonna line up our negative end of our capacitor so there's that one next we have 639 which is another 50 volt 10 639 50 volt 10 it's over here right next to our big filter capacitor and gotta make sure that we line them up again and get the right orientation on this capacitor we're gonna make sure we point it the right way it's the quickest way to damage something is to insert and install one of these capacitors in the wrong way you know like backwards and it's also something i've seen that's happened i've seen people do it and uh it not cause an issue till hundreds of hours later but when it finally catches up it causes a real serious issue and i'm not even joking i have seen people install caps opposite of what they're supposed to be and pvms so the last one here is another stupid double checking 50 volt 10 640 is a 50 volt 10 micro farad lining this up positive to negative uh yes this is master safer as if this is a camers nexus mod mat and answers yes i have a collection of their mod mats they're amazing and um if they weren't so good i'd try to make some of my own uh but they make some amazing mod mats and i just got i noticed that they make a like soldering mat now it's brand new and i love the mat that i have here that i use for soldering uh but that what is specific for mod work and and like a solder setup so i don't know i might have to get that one too i've got this one here on this um and then this is like their medium large and then i have the ultra large one over on another work bench that's in another section of our shop here and that one's phenomenal because it it's esd safe and it covers this entire large rolling bench that i have all right well that one in the place we got all these tacked in again i like to this last one i'm going to bend back upward okay we can cut these legs and finish the installation on these three caps but that's you you don't really underestimate or you can't underestimate how good it feels to work with the right tools and good tools it just adds a whole another level of confidence to your um to your ability when you're sitting here working on on equipment and hardware like this if you have good high quality tools and also that they're performing up to task and they're cleaned and serviced if they're in that kind of a shape it really can make the whole hardware repair and modification experience enjoyable a lot a lot more fun you know get some happy little solder down here get right into those deep crevices of that 160 volt capacitor oh lovely lovely all right we're sitting here 640 now getting in the zone 640 632 639 i don't really like the way that 639 is looking get a little bit oof got a little hot there see if you get it a little bit too hot then capacitor will slip down we don't want that all right not too bad here at least we'll come back and clean that up but let's make sure that all of our caps are in here going the right direction everything looks to be good right in there those are three new capacitors there we go all right our last little section is our probably trickiest section of this board and that is uh this center area right next to our main transformer which is this yellow piece i will tell you something interesting about this as i go let me recheck and make sure that all the capacitors they installed are correct that one's correct 640 is a 50 volt 10 and so is 639 leaving us just these so that's all good this right here is a very tricky part so this can actually vibrate and cause a lot of noise in pvms it's not always the case but sometimes people get a pvm that's extra noisy and it sounds like again higher whining bigger higher whining than even the flyback and it can be transformers like this and the crt will have smaller ones on the a board and other boards so if you do have a wine on this part the best thing to do is try to find a salvage one save on pat will sell some of these so you can look him up find them or to go through and you can try to reflow solder on that part and hopefully maybe that'll help a little bit with the vibration but you can also try to cover it in epoxy if you're really wild and that may help but that doesn't always work so just a note if you do have noises it can be those parts the transformers the last three capacitors is a 10 uf 50 which is 618 and then we have 616 which is the 616 35 volt 47 micro farad capacitor that's the other small one and then there's one more I don't even need to look right just use my hands a 220 micro farad 50 volt capacitor right there against the heat sink get all those in place and sorry I was out of screen there for a second I'll bend these legs make sure that the caps are nice and secure in there and there we go you can see them right in this area of your screen the legs if you look closely and I'm going to go ahead and tack in the legs right here maybe we'll try to zoom in a little bit get a little closer to that that'll be a little bit better better than uh I don't know that I like that light glaring back do that add some different light okay let's try some side light here oh we're gonna get up this point right here and then finally 616 over here straighten all these legs out they look good I'm through here snip on the tip only the tip snip that tip there's the rabbi here we go 619 616 and 618 we're soldering in that second leg three flow the solder on the other side clean my clean my tip there a little bit fresh solder about all three of those points there we go we have you can see that better that kind of looks really good it doesn't you didn't need really extra solder flux on there I mean not solder I'm sorry flux and don't want to use too much solder nice make it nice and as easy as it can be that should be all the work we need to do on the board for like that we'll need to come now and do the same thing we did a little while ago clean it again so we're going to get in here now and clean the board in the same manner as you saw me do this earlier we're gonna get a little bit of alcohol and just rub it on these places right here and get that extra flux that comes off the rosin core solder like it'll shoot out flux as it heats up and we don't want to really leave that you could leave that here and probably not have any issues but it just looks gross nobody one of the things I find to be severely annoying is when I go in and service a piece of equipment that was obviously serviced by somebody and they just didn't do like this step right here and so it's all nasty and this solder will just look worse and worse and worse over time if you leave it there I mean I'm sorry again I'm not talking about the solder itself I'm talking about that flux residue so that's those three and then we'll flip around clean off these two up here right up in the power zone here sometimes you'll notice look at that see if I clean over here where another part was installed from the factory look how much just look how much stuff is just on the board naturally kind of gross but what are you gonna do next one down here rub around it too let's end that q-tip let's get another fresh one okay we've got one more area to clean up that's over here we've got the big capacitor that we installed 632 and then two more over here here sometimes this this residue will kind of get hardened and you can come back once you've dried it off and you may even have to clean it additionally by scraping off around the around the the solder points you'll you'll need to sometimes come in here and clean it even more so hopefully that won't be the case by guarantee that will be the case before this whole job is done today and then they're finally number three right here and get our alcohol out of the way zoom out a little bit i'm gonna come in here and just hit this with some air okay there we have what looks to be pretty plain board so i'll just come through here and take this esd brush do a good scrape over those zones again that i worked on and now you can see what takes so long to do these crts i mean we're we're already into this dream an hour and i've only gotten the first board out in pretty much service and you know i just want to make sure that everything is correct we will check the capacitors again in our last area make sure everything looks right they're all facing the same correct direction 619 is that 618 is a 50 volt 10 and that is a volt 10 and then 616 is the 35 volt yes that's right okay so it's always good to go in and double triple check all your work especially if you're the only one looking at it you might make a mistake you only get one chance sometimes to do this the right way all right everything's cleaned up in here and just take one last look at this board everything looks good all the soldering looks really good get in here zoom in to some of the points that we changed these capacitors on so you can have a final look at them we didn't have any kind of issues with our board and any kind of damage all that was avoided so that's a really positive thing now we're just going to slip this whole thing back into its plastic shell if i can find it let me see what i've done with the plastic shielding now interesting can't be too far away from me get everything set up and then you forget where you set something here's my two pieces starting with this board and sticking it back in the frame like that let me add a little bit more light maybe zoom out a little more where you guys and i'll put this back in and i'll show you how this goes and you're going to want to have see it's gonna go this way because this connection right here needs to fit where the fuses are see sit this right here slide it in like that see it slides into these three slots right here and then you just snap all that all those posts right down and then you have it set in here right caesar you can usually use this tool to get out this hako fr 301 you can use it with larger tips to help get out snap in capacitors again you need a larger hold tip but you can't do it that way or you can use solder wick and try it the old-fashioned way so that's it let me close up our cap kit since we're done with the first of three boards and then we just need to reinstall some screws over here and hopefully not have any issues right the good thing is we have pretty easy way to make sure that we did the right thing and that is to just turn around and hook this up into the pvm again and give it a test and then we'll move on to the neck board if if everything is good on on the power supply and you might say well you know why not service all these separately the good thing about servicing a board at a time a single board at a time if you have an issue if it was working fine before you service that specific board then all of a sudden after servicing a board if it like for example if it started showing an issue after I did this I'd know that it was something I did or something happened while I was restoring this power supply could have put in a part incorrectly or something could have happened like it could have knocked a component loose or caused a bridge with just a loose piece of material between two points so it's always good to get in here and check again make sure everything's good I'm going to blow it out just one more time we're going to get ready to install it all right let's go over here to our all cameras all cameras reporting for duty and we'll get this power supply right back where it came from now I'm not going to bolt it back in and all that but what I can do is connect everything back to where it was and then we'll power it on and I'm not concerned about maybe letting it run too long or anything we're just going to do a quick power test I probably won't even put a video signal into it we'll just run it for a second we do want to make sure everything's plugged in we'll leave our ground disconnected for a second because again I'm not going to worry about that after so what we can also do is we don't have to there's there's an extra set of hooks on the side of this EVM shell case for the power supply it's right here it's two hooks here and there's two hooks here which are the normal hooks you set it on when you're installing it properly we'll for test mode we can set it on these other hooks and it'll kind of hang off the side like this but nothing's risk of being damaged doing this but it gives us see how it gives us a little bit more freedom room to work around it while it's open but we'll get it right around here like this see how that kind of just hangs on there everything's connected and we're going to need to just plug in the crt let's see see what happens so let's hope for the rest best take a second here put in our power and see what happens I don't want to make that it should be good to go knock on some wood hopefully everything went good turn the power on down here okay you can hear the digows are coming on once I hit power on let's turn this overhead light out and then check yeah see there we go our screen's coming back so we'll just leave it here for a second I think everything is good we just finished up servicing our primary power supply which is one of the three major boards on this monitor again I want to say thank you to anybody if you have any questions to this point I'll take a second and before we move on to the next board I'll be glad to answer anything take a quick breather things seem to be going pretty good on the pacing of our video I think we're going a little bit slower and I thought we might but that's okay better again to be safe and sorry then to make a mistake so just let me move some of my gear around here a little bit and we'll get things out of the way so that we can get ready for the next board and this neck board should be pretty much nothing it's it's it's according to there's a possibility for it to have let's see it's a possibility to have five capacitors but I believe it only has two according to the manual so we should be able to do that pretty quickly and look at some other things on that neck board but for the most part that should be it so everything looks good on the chat switch over here to all camera we're going to power this guy back down and put the power and then we're going to move on to the neck board and we will let's get some background music going again sorry I don't have a super long playlist but I have some you know something to set the mood get you relaxed and calm now there's a little bit of a process to get this neck board off I want to make sure that I get you in a good viewpoint so you can see it let me let me pull our bottom camera out of the way a little bit stick with you here mover microphone over this way so this is our neck board okay and to get the neck board out it's going to require us to remove some cable connections like this is where our color goes in and main commands we got that the other side we got our high voltage connection point on the opposite side there's a little ground connection right here we'll get that out of the way ooh finally it's gonna be a little tricky sometimes I do have a little bit of epoxy and caulk in here that I'm just going to try to clip through with my clippers I'm just going to try to break it loose a little bit well maybe something a little better than that it's so old I may be able to forcefully pull it backwards I'm trying to evenly pull it so that it will did get somewhat snipped out let's try the other side so hopefully that'll be enough yeah it's just got some old caulk right in there holding it yes see there we go that's what I'm talking about that white crusty stuff right there again this is a board we can service and we don't have to worry about the anode cap right yet okay we don't have to worry about discharging anything yet it's not something we've had to really do yet uh but here is the seaboard so it comes out of here here's the two connection points there's a major connection point here for high voltage color and commands come in here and then that's where it connects to the crt tube some potentiometers here for some important adjustments in our ground connection right here a little ground connection right there all right let's take a look switch over let's see let me zoom down in here our seaboard wow so as I said we shouldn't have a lot of capacitors on here we've got two like I had thought c713 and c705 so it should have a 25 volt 100 right here which is 16 volt 100 so that's one I've upgraded and then this is a 250 volt 4.7 513 that is but check this out oh we got to test this capacitor this one's actually bulging can you see it that's really cool so it's it's bulging so hopefully it's like a bad reading uh and we'll see here let me uh plug in my desoldering tool and we're gonna get ready yeah p017 this one cap is bulging for sure look at that let me try to get in there a little closer let it focus oh yeah that one's for sure bulging it's hard to say it's not like a huge bulge that you can see really well but it's definitely bulging we're gonna get give it a little test let it warm up and then we can remove these two capacitors we know that these are the right capacitors there's only two of them but I'll mark them anyway and then I'm definitely after we pull these I'm definitely gonna put them into our tester and we're gonna read hopefully a bad cap here let's just go ahead remove our first cap over here 705 and we'll get over here on the positive leg come on Sutter get up there and flow for me there we go 705 c705 16 volt 100 so that's great perfect I'm almost through it in the trash bin but again we want to keep it aside so we can test test it because this is if you go and get a cap kit online from save on pet he doesn't usually include the cap kit that we've done so far which includes both the neck board and the power supply that we just finished so this is extra on top of that right here we are big fatty bulge bulge let's let's see oh great news it's got some long legs on it and uh ZZ top was right she's got legs and she knows how to use them let's uh let's use those legs now I got kids I drive them to school every morning which I consider a blessing you know they could have to take the bus but they don't thankfully in the mornings and uh I take them to school and they always joke I try to tell them about like classic rock bands you know and like educate them on them ZZ tops one of those bands that we talk about look at this thing whoo 55,044 nanofarads it's supposed to be 4.7 so it's not like it's fifth I mean that's not a not even a spec for that but if you look at the esr it's on planet 12 22 uh we got 22 for the 24 ohms super high definitely ready to pop there yeah I had to joke with them you know they've uh they don't really know how to I try to get them to figure out like the way the bands sound you know distinct sounds of the bands so you can tell when the band comes on you know it's like Elvis or uh who's another one I've been all the Beatles put those on when they come on the radio I try to ask them who they are Bon Jovi every Bon Jovi song sounds about the same so you can tell them hey what is this and eventually it's like oh they just guessed Bon Jovi and they're right and same thing with a lot of those other artists they a lot of their stuff sounds the same all right so we can get in here now and change out these two capacitors and because let's face it if I just let my kids pick my seven-year-old daughter will pick like Miley Cyrus to listen to all day and uh I just can't do it can't do it Hannah Montana you know call me old fashioned but I can't uh I can't listen to the twerk princess I can't listen to my seven-year-old daughter sing the twerk princess's tunes not feel a little bit uh worried there you know what I mean maybe it's just the old fashioned daddy-o and me anyway hey from Russia with love thank you thank you for watching wherever you may be in the world I do appreciate you tuning in right now I'm going to move on to installing the two new capacitors and to make sure that I can do this properly I'm going to turn off my HACCO FR301 oh yeah I almost I'm pushing that power I'm pushing that power to the max because I just saw a flash on my monitor oh man I know right Andy brought up said he's used to I used to think how cringy boy bands were and now I'll find myself in the grocery store like humming it when it comes on for background music and enjoying it and I'm just laughing like look at me I used to think this was terrible oh man today's music's got nothing on anything old you got to basically go backwards and then when you get tired of like the 80s and the 70s then you even got to go back further and go to the 60s and 50s it's just like you got to go backwards for music most of the time it's just modern stuff unfortunately at least mainstream modern music is nothing nothing fun let's install these two capacitors now just to give you an idea so we saw that our bad capacitor which was a 250 volt 4.7 micro farad capacitor and this is a 250 volt 4.7 micro farad capacitor from I see it's just a good company it's got long legs very long legs because it's never been installed let's test it and see what kind of reading we get on a brand new capacitor I'm gonna have to trim just a bit off this one leg because it won't fit down in there together but we'll see if this one reads any better worse hopefully it's better it's again the last one just read 24 ohms and all right so here look at this we've actually got a say we're right in spec this should be 47 well it's 465 so that's definitely good and then our esr is down to 6.2 ohms it's still a little higher uh because it's a bigger voltage or I'm sorry bigger voltage but smaller capacitance only 4.7 micro farads so that's that's a big difference that's how you tell which one's bad which one's good now somebody was saying Stan said you were a big Judas Priest fan uh I tell you man that Rob Halford he put he put on a hell of a show whenever I saw him man it must have been oh gosh I want to say 15 years ago 20 years ago maybe at this place in Nashville Tennessee actually outside of Nashville it's called starwood amphitheater it was an outdoor stadium and they had they would come out and have just these amazing summer of rock concerts and the radio station the radio station in Nashville would give like certain days you could go and you could get $10 tickets to any show for the entire summer so one day the last summer that my friends and I were in high school we went down to there and bought tickets for the whole season for $10 a show and one of them I believe it was I want to say Osfest the headliner was Black Sabbath so it was a reunion Black Sabbath tour and I want to say like Slayer was there but Judas Priest was there and this show was in the heat of the summer in the southeast in Nashville Tennessee and it was easily 90 over 90 degrees and also super humid that's the thing about the southeast in America it's super humid during the summer months so here you have this heat index of like 110 degrees and Rob Halfords out on stage in outdoor staging in full on leather garb I mean he's got a leather outfit leather pants boots and a full on leather trench coat leather gloves and I mean just up there kicking ass and it was the most amazing thing I couldn't believe it he like didn't break a sweat they must have had like four dudes on there hiding under the stage with fans pointed at him just to keep him cooled off because I was sweating just watching him and drinking drinking underage services which you're not supposed to do but what can you say but I've just distinctly remember probably them being one of the big surprises of the show you always go to those big shows and you're like who's going to surprise me in this show and Judas Priest was the one like out of all the bands at that Ozfest that year I can't remember who else would have been there I think those were the big three but it was definitely one of those all-day ordeals but that was the lovely late 1990s and early early 2000s you know like a year 2000 that would have been about that time period and sadly after not long after that that whole outdoor concert was shut down and they converted it into homes like mid-level suburban neighborhood homes and so the starwood amphitheater experience was completely done and gone after that and again you just don't also get to go to concerts for ten dollars anymore you don't get to go see anybody good for ten dollars you know there's there's way too much money involved anymore and even in a situation where you have I mean these were lawn seats so it's not you know it's open it's open seating it's on a big lawn and you're out beyond the amphitheater almost where like there is a seating area you're beyond that all right now we've got our important things installed our capacitors our two capacitors right here just make sure that they are oriented the correct direction and again we're going to make sure all our parts are not touching each other no legs are touching each other no one other thing I like to do on these neck boards just for peace of mind as I remove this it's always breaks so don't worry about it the legs off this stupid plastic shell they always break and this thing is just garbage at this point happens nine times out of ten but it just covers this potentiometer which adjusts your horizontal convergence static convergence I like to go through here and I like to reflow solder on these points now it does increase increase the cleanup and the time to do it but there's some points on here especially like going into the tube where it's nice to make sure that your solder is good and that you don't have any cold solder joints developed over the next 20 years because if they do you'll have an issue so don't be afraid to sit in here and reflow solder and you could go and honestly sometimes I would depend on the monitor I'll reflow solder on the entire neck boards especially if it shows any signs of wearing out because there's not a lot of solder on some of these points you'll notice really right away like that specifically that connector to the neck of the tube you could go through here and do all the little ICs you could do those and what if you had now if you had a color problem you're missing a color there could be an instance for one of these has gone bad on these heat sinks because there's one for each color red green and blue so when those go bad you'll lose a color so if you're missing a color that's something to check out that's as much soldering as I'm going to do on this board right now just that connection to the neck and then now we need to go back and do it again got to go back and clean the board clean the board clean the spots we just touched or touched up the solder to we'll let those cool down for a second we'll go over here and start with our new capacitors that we've installed it's nice come over here and do the same on 713 she's in this nice purple alcohol getting the thing clean up one of the bands I'll tell you that I've also I've had a more appreciation for as of late it's not I mean it's nothing groundbreaking or anything it's but it is a classic band that I'm sad I'll never really get to see live and that is Rush really really been going back and enjoying especially while I'm working listening to a lot of Rush's music especially not all just you know I'm not talking about like Tom Sawyer and you know the mainline hits of course Limelight's a pretty awesome song if you even if you get into the lyrics it's pretty amazing of a song but there's other ones that are just just great great all-around songs they got some incredible incredibly well put together and I think it's is it the drummer he's the one who passed away a couple years ago from cancer and they won't go on tour without him yeah Neil the Holly's really that's awesome yeah it's uh I you know I I did go see somebody that was surprising I went and saw Willie Nelson last year and that was a fun experience but that guy's in his 90s and he was still put on a whole show um that was last summer here in Virginia I went to see Willie it was pretty funny they had you know he had all this marijuana memorabilia and like his stoner's tent and um it was the funniest part was everybody or majority of the people at the concert were the age of my parents but it smelled like um you know they were all down they were definitely down hitting the uh hitting those left-handed cigarettes left and right but he put on a great show he had like his kids on there and his kids were like 50 you know he's like he had his whole is Willie Nelson in the family it's still saying he couldn't really stand up he uh he sat down the whole time which is fine I sat down most of the time too uh but it was a sold-out show people came from all over to see him it was a very packed show so get another Q-tip here because there's a lot of a lot of solder flux still on here I want to make sure I get as much of that as possible um off this board yeah it's fun to talk about music and I definitely noticed even in my own self how there were things I thought were of course great when I was younger that I realized aren't so great and other things that I thought were just bad uh when I was younger and I hadn't and the truth was I had no real uh appropriate palette for taste I didn't really you know my taste spectrum would have been immature and just not not as good as they are today so you know thankfully thankfully there's such a vast library of music out there that really um even when you get bored of something you can go and find something else it's almost like retro gaming you know get bored of one console you can move on to another it's much much nicer now that we have easy access to so much stuff all right I'm just doing a quick inspection of things stuff looks good give it a little blow off there we go still see the problem is is you start you start cleaning these boards and again since you went to the when it was in the factory they use uh this solder blocks material on the entire board and leave it there just look at this I'll just rub this board it's it's like sticky on my finger you start cleaning something and then it's frustrating because let's look how dirty the board is by itself it'd be nice to have an ultrasonic cleaner to do this but unfortunately I don't have that because if you had that you could just pop it in there and it would be crystal clear I have to go through and do it the old-fashioned way here but that's okay that's the way everybody can do it that's on a budget make sure we rub everything off one more time here everything looks good all right is too scooby thank you for the super chat I appreciate it thanks for sharing your tips tricks experience with those of us who may not have other ways to see it well thank you thank you everybody and thank you especially is too scooby that's really nice of you to say and that's one of the things I love about the opportunity I have here where I get to actually do this fun work and I get to show you what I do and also that you guys care and and they're actually you know there's actually somebody that wants to watch this it's it's an amazing thing to me to think about also so thank you and thank you for the super chat we're going to do it now let's go and get ready to install this and run a test again it's going to give it one last blow that's what she said oh man anyway let's connect it back in we're just going to slide it back in there evenly push this weight against the back of the tube but before I really do that I want to connect not so can worried about this ground connection I'll leave it unconnected I'm only concerned about the ones on the side which is high voltage and color commands from our primary a board so let's do that release the tension on these cables a little bit and slide this back on there you know watch these pins on the tube to make sure that everything lines up and you just kind of put even pressure push it all the way up against the tube back there so it can't go any further it's nice and even I don't really want to leave that ground cable floating there just because let's just reconnect it to be safe we don't want it to accidentally short out against something so there we have it board number two has been serviced everybody and we're going to test it out whoops there we go okay all right cool yeah all right we are going to plug in just electricity again and test to make sure that everything looks fine on the monitor flipping around here wheeler close and here we go knock on wood one more time power's going in I hear the tube coming on all right there you have it all right we'll let it run for a second but we seem to have done this next one well too so we have all of our capacitors changed on our C board and our G board and then now the only thing left is our A board which is the big board which goodness I'm not entirely sure that I will have time and this well I really want to finish this thing I just I have a hard deadline in about one hour so we'll see if we can make it if not we'll have to try to get through it in another stream but let's not think about that yet let's let it run for a second and hopefully everything will be good but just so we can see something on the screen maybe I'll try to get a signal put into it so we can make sure that we definitely have a picture but I have to clean out and give myself a little bit more space when we move on to the bigger board because that primary board has a lot more caps that have to be removed and installed see and that's it let's go ahead and put um let's let me see if I can't get the composite video back into the screen which I can we'll get it into the screen I'm going to let it run for a minute because I need to take a restroom break anyway and so that'll be a good opportunity I'll put it back on the screen and I'll go and take about a 10 minute break 5 10 minute break and I'll come back but before I do all that I'm going to hook this up and we'll look at look at some patterns but there really should not be any difference uh in the picture quality more than likely I don't know I mean there was that one capacitor that was bad but I don't believe that's gonna cause us to have any real problems so I've got I'm not going to hook up the waveform monitor I'm just going to go straight for our pc graphics and if I show you if you want to look here on overhead cam I'll show you this is the this is the spark plug unit so just clicks in the back there you can run RGB out of that device or you can use composite out of it so it's uh it's an interesting one but we're going to be using it for composite just because that's that's what I was using with the waveform monitor and that's what we can easily test here and let me get the um console connected it's plugged in let's go on a and then we'll plug this in behind it I do have some people asking of things I think about um I haven't been able to watch every second of the chat but some people were asking about maybe RGB modifications and stuff so good news is I ran a poll and it looks like the vast majority of people on that poll want to see me RGB mod a Sony so coming up on a real full episode we're going to do that we're not this is just livestream stuff but we'll do that in an upcoming episode we'll do an RGB modification over there let's get that menu out of the way and there we go look at that let's get something on the screen this is the old Everdrive for this it's not the new one with like the CD quality graphic games this is the old school and so not anything cool really there let's if anybody has any uh requests I'll first pull up our tester so we do have a 240p test suite in this one and again just have some good uh good test patterns in it again we're in composite right now so everything looks fine though uh if we pull up like the color bars there's nothing there's no issue you can it's starting to go in and out of focus which I apologize for it's having a hard time really focusing on anything specifically I try to get it to maybe key in down here but if we look at this one doesn't have the monoscope grids in it unfortunately but it does have the other video tests so we've got a scroll test and let's go this is the better resolution so it's not as the exact same as the other uh it's not the exact same as the other 240p test suite but it's still it's good you know it works great so well while this runs it's it's not a problem we're going to let it run for like five to ten minutes I'm going to put uh I'll put it back on our main camera here and I'll make a note in the chat and let everybody know but we're going to go and um I'll be take I'll take a short restroom break right now I'm gonna put this on something else um to run and it'll just run in the background uh but I don't know that maybe air air zonk is a good one because I think it's got a cool little video at least you can see some shots of the screen working and we'll come back I mean come back and yeah there we go so I'll let this run and we'll come back and uh in a minute and finish this up as long as I have the time and I will be right back everybody I'm going to take again a short restroom break thank you for your patience okay thank you everybody thank you for your patience and giving me a second there get stuff regrouped we're gonna get back in here now and actually get this main board out now and service it so I'm just gonna start disconnecting and turning off all the stuff first but I just want to make sure when you're doing this stuff that you are taking your time also to remember to be safe when you do this because obviously we're dealing with high voltage and things like that so we want to make sure that we don't make any mistakes so I've got that all powered down power supply off we're gonna get ready to take this crt apart now and we'll flip it around and I'm gonna show you I'm gonna show you what is hopefully the easiest way to get all this disconnected hopefully you'll see this and then if you're ever daring enough to have to or try to take your crt like a part you may have just figured me out Chris this place gamers is here my good friend and that's all we need is just some easy listening and a crt going and just let the kids walk in here and play it randomly but yeah we're about to actually take the main board out now finally we've gotten through and if you just are coming in now after the break the first two hours of the stream we went and we serviced our neck board right here and in our power supply right here and that's two of the primary important boards on this monitor so they've been serviced they've been tested you got to see them tested pretty thoroughly there for a second and now we got to move on to this main board okay so obviously now it's time to discharge that's why we got this nice speak easy music going here you know here's this last time you'll ever see Steve on a live stream probably not but that's a good thing all right so some things we need to be aware of we're gonna we're gonna pull this board it's the way it works is this main board down here it has to be pulled out like towards away from the crt similar to this board but we're pulling a big board now so it's a little bit more tricky and make sure everything's in the view here pull this guy out of the view a little bit and what I'm gonna try to do is I'm gonna try to leave as much of this up here as possible okay so I need to just disconnect some points I'm gonna show you I try to flip it around so you can see oh I like jazz of course well uh I mean sometimes I pop on the Kenny G and really groove you think I'm joking but I'm not I listened to a lot of great stuff you know like I said I used to think Kenny G was a joke and now I'm like blown away by his stuff anyway we're gonna unplug this one this one goes to our deflection yoke okay it goes from the main board to the deflection yoke got to unplug that one another cable we're gonna unplug is over here on this side well yeah no see so uh try to think of the best well let's let's just do it like that we've got to disconnect this cable on this side it goes up to the yoke or the neck board and it loops through on the side over here on the input board gotta disconnect that flip around to the other side and whoo sorry about that I've got to deal with some stuff right in this area and it's gonna be difficult for me to show you that part but there's like a ground junction right behind where my finger is lift up and so you can see this right here where my hand is the right view angle see this so I have to disconnect one of these one of these points goes to the main board down here down here oops sorry one of these points goes to the main board down here I have to disconnect that and then another one goes and travels on towards the tube I have to disconnect that one too I have to there's two points on here well sorry one point the one that's connected to the board that one can stay the long one we'll disconnect it here so we can pull that whole thing away from the input board now it's a little confusing sounding let me why not just pull this camera and move it around a little bit more since we're going to be disassembling most of this part of the video so make sure I get the right cable this one it's a middle one right here it's got to come out and then the other middle one's got to come out too yes I'm sorry everybody I am fully clothed you you may get to see some kneecap all right so see how that just lifts up and we got this out of the way we got that we want to just leave this free floating we're also going to disconnect this black and red connection right here it pulls apart pretty easily like that here we go we'll disconnect not that that can stay that can stay I'll disconnect our my hand is going in here and I'm about to disconnect this cable over at this end where it's in the main board but I can I can't scoot the main board back a little bit at this point I should be able to yes see slides that's how we'll get it out ultimately sliding it out slide it out Stevie just slide it on out of there all right now I've disconnected the neck board and then there's some front connections in the front that I have to get to but hey before I do that we've got to do we got to do the one second dealio here right I'm going to sit here I'm going to sit here I'm going to sit here and softly whisper as I take my right hand and calmly discharge this tube now folks if you're not a professional like me then you should definitely not do this especially not live streaming and especially not just sitting here you know if you've never done this this thankfully I've done this a hundred times last week so I can just do it like this you see I've got that calm look on my face and I've taken the ano cap off now here and what I can do at this point is discharge this ano cap and the tube still just just to be safe I don't want to not be safe so we'll connect to some metal on the frame here where should we go to let's just go straight to the the frame itself right there and then we'll just tap right here tap tap tap nothing tap here nothing so thankfully our sony has self-discharged and it always just like the vast majority of people in your lives it self-discharges and I have seen it one time not self-discharge I've seen one time where I've actually done that procedure and it sparked and it was a 20 inch pvm similar to this so it does happen but that's literally one time out of probably 500 of these I've done but now we have this cable free swing around here gets you a little bit different view need to get this off the ga board over here we'll leave that dangling get that out of the way anything else is out of the way now there are a couple of points oh that's a better view do you see folks do you see down in here right here right there that's where we have to pull those cables from right there so let me see if I can get a better view down in there whoo this is a tough tough spot right here this is a tough spot okay excuse the the low light we'll try to get to focus on something we're trying to get these cables down here out by my fingers there's three sets of cables here right where my finger is I need to get those disconnected and then there's another set of three cables on the other side that we also have to disconnect and those are just pull up and they come out the other side does have ones with some like a hook on it there's but there's three on each side okay I think everything is good disconnect from the power supply all three floating okay now if you if you do decide to do all this servicing in just one go oh there's one more up here I'm sorry I forgot the tally light the tally light cable right there forgot to pull that didn't see it there we have it we'll board out and this is a good time if you want to clean in here to get back in there and clean all that area out if you need to I'm gonna zoom out a little bit and get ready to show you what this board is all about and what it looks like move some stuff around I'm gonna need to zoom out on the overhead view and go on over so we can get a better shot of this and you can get an idea of the a-board and how it looks it's pretty pretty complex it's the most complex and intimidating of all the boards in the m-series monitors and that's really just because of all the components on both sides a lot of components in here okay but we're not even ready to work on it just yet you see if I can get that a little bit better so you can see more of this end this is the more important end we have our fly back right in here first thing I want to do is I want to get this input board out of the way there's some tabs right here where my thumb is see that just pull that tab out a little bit lift up on that input board do it on each side there we go now we can disconnect these cables up top stan I do have a discord server but I have to keep it for patreons only patreon people I'm sorry there is one available to the patreon members if you're interested go check out the link in the description of this stream all right that's it that's it just get the input board often out of the way barely I think I've seen it once or twice has there ever been a problem with the input board and I have seen it but I have seen it happen but this is your input board you don't really normally have to do anything with this doesn't have to be serviced anymore than just cleaned no nine times out of ten so we just set that out of the way for right now and now we have the rest of our board there are four screws in here okay we have Phillips head screw here here over here on the right hand side or the other side two and then finally there's one screw where my pin is pointing down in here attaching the fly back to the plate so we need to remove all four of these screws and then the board will be out and ready to service it does come in handy to have a set of twi oh twires tweezers or pliers for example it makes it easier to grab some of these screws and sometimes you'll have capacitors that are in hard to reach areas so you'll have to remove them and insert new ones and you can't I mean I don't know about you guys I have big old fat sausage fingers that just can't uh can't fit in between a lot of these pieces and so I'm stuck a lot of times using tweezers and pliers there I am again trying to say tweezers twiers what is that okay so here's the deal with music I have a subscription to a company it's called Epidemic Sound and I'm allowed to play their music copyright you know free or it's not free I pay right I pay for it and uh that's the music you're here in the jazz mix is from that and if you'd like I could probably go pull up some other music here so we don't have to keep listening to the same 10 songs over and over again but whoa slippery fingers okay I've got this out of the plate it's similar to the piece of plastic you saw an hour ago on that power supply that's pretty much all there is to it you just want to remember that it does have some tabs up here on the sides where my finger is that hold the board in place one on each side and then it has places where the board slips down into that's pretty universal design so he kept that for a while sit that out of the way and then we can look at this main board now I tried to warn you this this monitor has tons of capacitors okay and not only capacitors but other parts all scattered throughout the entire board here yeah the music did stop Joshua I forgot to put the playlist on repeat but we can do that real quick here but anyway so this this board it's intimidating okay there we go because it's got so many parts on it it's got some of these chips cards probably about 200 capacitors electrolytic capacitors all in this side which is the main top side of the board but even more devastating to the novice is the bottom side of this board just look at it you have all kinds of tiny surface mount components right here all over this side of the board so this is a double sided board and to do this particular cap kit you will be forced to work within the confines of these small areas and you'll have to remove these capacitors so anyway just knocked against the knocked against the neck board so hopefully I didn't just do something to the tube didn't mean to do that I was putting that cap kit out of the way so these are all kinds of these monitors doing so much stuff it's hard to say the capacitors that we do have that we're concerned with are on this list right here thankfully I've done this so many times and I know where the capacitors are and I'm going to try to just buzz through this like a normal working day for me but this is the list of the capacitors and I accidentally crossed this one out but it should not be crossed out so I need to add it back and what is that one is a 2200 micro farad 25 volts okay so these are the ones that have to do with deflection and are the ones that we are concerned with so I need to let my desoldering tool heat up and we're just going to start and I'm going to roll into to remove in these capacitors and I'm not going to do much as far as there there will be some ones that I'll stop and I'll highlight and I'll probably start with those those are the most important ones the ones that actually have more to do with uh this specifically the deflection let me see if I can get this thing to come out anymore yeah okay so that's like these capacitors right up in here like these two these two right here next to this heat sink those cause the red green blue line issue with vertical blanking these two so they're very important to change out all around here this cluster of four has to do with deflection this one does this one does this one does there's three or four in this area that do but again we're not changing all of them we're going to change a lot of them but not all of them we're going to change 30 or no 20 uh sorry 28 of them 28 of them I think my desoldering tool is all set up we're going to go ahead and get started the first cluster will be like in here there's three of them that we need to get out of here and uh so I'm gonna kind of let me make sure I can get you guys a good view where you can at least see what I'm I'm see that I'm doing something and uh like I said I'm going to try to get these out and see 202 I believe that's on our list 204 206 207 207 is sideways right here where my thumb is right here definitely going to have smooth hand because some of these connection points they connect the top and the bottom of the board and the traces go different places so that's an issue and also some of them connect to two or three different points specifically so that's always an issue too it's very very tricky work on this specific board and it does take a while you know to get used to doing it on a board like this but this is this is the main board where you're going to have all the problems come from if you do have an issue it's more than likely this board this is where all your deflections being dealt with sometimes these things just don't want to break free you can't keep it on too long because you don't want to damage the board thanks for you see so I'm going to have to probably add a little bit of solder on to this other point here because it's gotten gotten aware if I stick it on there it'll probably burn the board unless I add some and I can use it like the FR 301 does solder with too especially if I'm not if I'm just using it to desolder something so I'll just usually put a dab of solder on the tip there get it on the part that I need to get rid of I have to 204 now we should have a big old blob of solder to remove so simply heat that up move that part around and I did it again all right this is a tricky one but don't worry it happens so you got to just get in here and we'll use turn the regular soldering iron on we'll have to reflow the solder on it with that and it might just pull it pull it out there you go see so now I've got it sticking straight up sometimes you just got to do that because it's it makes it hard when they're they're pressed against the board like the leg of the capacitor that you're trying to remove and this is another thing that you know is a testament to patience do you have the patience to do it and get it out of there it's a good one see all that time and we've only gotten two capacitors out 204 is out 207 is out 206 208 208 is over here 206 is in another area but 208 is right here next to these in this little cluster over here right in this section so we need to get this little cap out and we'll be we'll be done with this block see what you got to be careful of is sliding that tool and hitting one of those surface mount caps or like resistors and knocking it off that would be deadly make sure on the top side that I don't know here we go it's just like hanging on by a little thread we got 208 is out we have 50 volt 10 so the caps that were used in this monitor from sony are the vast majority of them are 85 degree caps Celsius so that means that they'll wear out quicker than their counterparts which would be 105 degrees Celsius so that's what I've switched all the capacitors to is the 105 degrees Celsius well right now I'm just trying to get some materials out of this clean this up a little bit make sure it's still sucking properly this um fr 301 clean out the filter that catches all the solder materials so back together it is it is like muscle memory you just like with any job if you do it long enough and are good at it stick to it you learn how to do it really quickly and efficiently I think I've got a little issue right here though looks like this spot right here needs to be desoldered because the solder it didn't clear out of the hole enough and I won't be able to stick a new capacitor in that hole till I get all the solder out there we go clean as a whistle so is there three three holes right here I don't know if you can turn that light out if you can see it um my finger is right here is our holes see our cap spinner move there there and there and that's uh that's that three cluster and now we're on to this cluster over here we move on to this cluster we'll have to do this one and these two these two this one that's them that's the biggest we're gonna try to run through and and try to pull a bunch of these at once um hopefully they almost stick if they do take a long you know if they sometimes you get into some boards and whatever the solder from it sticks a lot and you're stuck you know reflow and solder on every cap point just to suck it out which is a lot of time which is time consuming 522 there we go that's a good one to get out yep folks this is the excitement of a thursday evening afternoon pull in capacitor nothing better else to do all right that's the right one that's the right thanks Dan I appreciate that although I might be in a small pond there not a lot of channels probably dedicated to just CRTs mostly I do other things too you guys know that but most of it's themed around CRTs or retro stuff tech obviously retro tech right so okay sticking with the wiggle trick where once I get the solder molten a wiggle that part there we go that went out of the way oh nice museum with arcade machines that sounds cool okay that cap is out c595 now what's up with the other hole doesn't look very clear on one side but it does on that side sometimes you can stick the end of these and yeah it's cool sometimes you know a little piece of solder will get stuck in there or something you can clear it through with the good player good pair of tweezers now we're going to remove 507 right here right up next to this heat sink and it's a good example of why the capacitors in the deflection zone fail because they're on the high voltage areas and or not all of them but you know it's pretty close in proximity to the flyback most of them are but they're also really close to a lot of components that generate tons of heat that's why the ones especially right next to heat sinks are troubled and prone to failure i'm getting one here that's not wanting to get molten okay got her broken free let's see what we got here it's not a bit fishy a bit fishy you know what that means means it's a little bit suspect there's that zone right there cleared out right out this heat sink you see that zone where my thumb is right there right there those four are now removed and again those are really key for deflection you got to get those out and i'll move on to the ones beside it c596 and these cap kits like this are something that i've developed for a lot of crt's i don't have them for every crt i mean mostly it's pro monitors and it's mostly sony stuff and it's something i'm evolving ever ever ever evolving is the capacitor kit lists for crt's over on the patreon discord so this kit that i have today is linked under the discord and you can go there and get this and print it off and run your own kit make your own kit that way i don't i do not actually sell capacitor kits at the moment i just think it's better for everybody to make them on their own if they know how to and if you can't do something that's good to learn if you're going to start doing this understanding the capacitors is important part of knowing what to do this is one of the two most important capacitors in the deflection block the 160 volt one microfarad capacitor it's in line for the vertical blanking so that's when that again that red green blue line problem happens that eventually shorts out the whole monitor and blows the fly back if you if you don't correct it or if the error if the error happens and you don't fix it in time you just let it go can really damage everything on the board it can blow out the hot which is this there's another capacitor it says a 164.7 so those are the two that caused the caused the failure those two right there out of all of them these two right here are the ones that caused the failure if they fail and then they'll blow out the hot which is over on this right there and blow that thing just blow it and then eventually it'll blow the fly back if you don't if you don't take care of it it just all happened at once and ruins the chassis because it's not easy getting a fly back so now we're going to move on to the caps next to that and get this one too over here these three have to go some of these have to go I think this one with the this one right here needs to go and so do you others beside that one but first let's go down here work on these let's see you're gonna be difficult I don't really like to turn the heat up any higher than honestly the first setting on this if you're just doing cap work because nothing's worse and then sticking this against the board and then burning the darn trace off whoops I mean absolutely nothing this guy's not gonna come out either I'm gonna take a look at the top it's not gonna it's just super tight it's super tight we go there we go thanks stan have a good night I'm gonna reflow starter be sure to check back in at the end of the stream tomorrow and see if we actually get this thing running I'm gonna put some extra in the 585 hole there and it's a beautifully cleaned hole hmm could either have that hole so clean all right I tell you man I'm moving at a snail's pace a snail's pace here but but that's just what happens when you get old you know and I'm about to be officially over the hill so I uh can't expect to be as fast as it was in the last decade man is staring down his mortality the only thing that keeps me really excited is to know that save on pat continues to do what I'm doing into his 90s so maybe there's something about this that keeps you young and keeps you living I don't know I just don't know oh I'm trying to get two for one do a two for one special here I think I did it loosen up a couple at a time and I'll flip this over and then I'll just pull them out make buyers here will yeah income like a couple of teeth good clean good clean excellent stuff so far so now we're going to move on to some other zones here and I definitely have to remove this one my thumb on it up here this big cap 586 this is where you get into the tricky stuff that's right up next to some of these other components and sometimes the solder gets hot and then cools real quickly there we go here's another one bigger one 25 volt 1000 micro farads where are we after that 581 is on the list 581 which is like right underneath that one it's a smaller one slipped my finger there but thankfully didn't this one's not being cooperative at all oh there we go it's broken free never mind okay so that one should be loose and ready to go 581 give me a tooth 581 there we go clean out of the hole and there's a couple more down in this cluster area that we need to remove 570 I see that one oh I some of these are just way up in here 70 is that a big one yeah that's a big one okay excuse me hmm this one's gonna take a little bit of finesse okay I got one leg loosened I have to reflow there was not very much solder on that right there to begin with give a little extra and this guy's gonna come out now don't try to get into there and end the leg of that straight a little bit so these capacitors can be just a pain to get in there and get loose but make sure that I'm not ripping the solder the board up because started to go and then it's there we go it's it's still going to be cleaned out again but it's just difficult sometimes difficult to get that out it's just wants to be cranky sometimes you know like down in this area some of them just do not want to get out of there usually it's the ends that are on these bigger ground plates they can take a lot more heat so they have a lot more room for that heat to spread and when it spreads you know it's spread out it's not as hot in one spot the one spot you need there you go nice cleaned up little spot there all right continuing on we are got number 570 and 581 and what's the other new one there's a 564 579 it's over here too somewhere 564 is like right up in here it's gonna be a tough one 564 that's 15 yeah see so this is like this one right here this one right here my fingers on that's the one that's got to come out next this one so all right there it looks like enough solder on it to pull it without adding more maybe we'll see but it's like wedged between a happy couple of surface more surface mount capacitors awesome oh yeah that's gonna need more solder tell you folks I mean I tell you what there's no no rest sometimes you gotta just got a hanger here again probably isn't so much that it needs to be reflowed the problem is is that the the legs of the capacitor are bent in a fashion that makes it so difficult to really use that to any effectiveness the desoldering tool so is it puff of smoke comes and hits you in the screen let's okay tough one is completely broken free oh good that's gracious and that's what they call test a test folks I highly skilled individual has to look at that's just crazy like how that's sandwiched in between all these little components right there around it all around it so let's get this surface mount capacitors and resistors right there and all takes is one small slip to mess those things up all right 579 where are you mister some of these um I will admit some of these are different there's this right there then the actual kit that I I got a couple these capacitors are new to the kit and so it's a little bit expanded that's why it's written in hand ink under the main kit I'm about to get to the point on this where I'm considering reflow in the solder ahead of time on just this the rest of this kit but but every time I say that I'll get one leg clean see the other leg just then the other leg does stuff on do it man so we're getting see that's the problem with this board compared to like the last board it's just a lot easier and this is getting a lot of the heat is getting removed from the board because it's right next to like a a big heat sink plate we'll break it loose like that and suck it all out suck it all out this cap all right so there we go I have 23 and five gotta get three of those three of these that are really close to the main like this video chip or something right here I'm not sure actually what kind of chip it is but it's got it's got a couple of important caps around it you'd think this stuff would want to get broken out of here but you know it's like 25 of being in one spot and you don't want to leave spot 23 is loose you get 541 down here well I've got it on this side it's one of these down here the second one it's this one right here maybe get it out that's the trick baby gotta get gonna get a little more of course heat on the bottom and it's always the negative we're getting too much heat on that and I have to switch over I feel the solder oops I think they just fell out did so I'll just suck the solder out there excellent so there goes that capacitor and I know I had another one in here that I had gotten to get the pliers for it that's a tricky one that's a tricky one right there perfect all right what was the other one in the 523 541 and a 529 I believe that's 549 I believe this one in here beside this transformers that's another transformer which I had mentioned earlier today 529 we're gonna go ahead and put some extra solder on this one because I don't think it's gonna just come right off the way it's looking 529 get your kids college plan the 529 let's let's get rid of 529 a bit tougher to break free do you think it would want to right want to break free it just fell out I think yep worse it's it's so do the job right and the first time and look it just falls right out okay down to close to the end here we are getting close to the end of the decap the only thing left are this cluster over here this cluster over here now and that's it the rest of them have been removed so go ahead now and start pulling these and then there'll be no more caps to remove in this whole set there's you know you'll always have the hot and you see this one right here the reason it's sticking again it's on the major ground loop so it's actually connected to its ground plate making it darn near impossible to just easily suck the solder out of it the heat gets so dissipated great though I mean it comes out nice and even after having to do the extra like step you're you're again better to take your time this is such a amazing board a bit if you think this one's bad you should check out you know like the that's maybe what I'll do next we'll try to work on like a l series monitor next it's a little bit more high tech like the l5 or something and see if we can't get it to get it to look good on camera again that's one of my favorites to work on even that's a pain in the neck I mean it's not easy such a cool crt though just a couple more caps here I'm trying to get them out as quick as possible and but not as quick as possible I guess so as quick and safely as doable I don't want to make any errors on the home stretch here do I look over here correctly I believe we're down to like two or three more capacitors that need to be removed which is just wonderful eights we've got oh come on got it out of there nothing nothing nothing just one more yes yes excellent so here we've got it we've got our cluster over here that's been removed now turn that light down and some better lighting so this cluster has been removed over here on this side some of them there's a couple over here that have been removed and then if we look over here this is the deflection area pretty much see you know we've got this one a couple over here these again are the red green blue line ones deflection ones deflection ones the three we've removed from here if deflection ones and then there's again like the eight or nine sporadic that we removed from in here and that's uh that's where we are for right now on the restorations we got all the caps out the cap kits ready so now we just need to install capacitors and it looks like I have come across my deadline for time this is a three hour stream today so just like there's not enough multi-format monitors in the world there's not enough time in the world ever so let me um let me check out one quick item and then we may just have to yeah we're going to guys I am going to have to call this a day for right now and look I promise you what I'm going to do is I'm going to leave all this alone and I might be able to come back later tonight and finish the stream up get the second half of this thing done because I'd really love to get an opportunity to talk to Keith Rainey again so we can actually get this like color calibration thing working out with this but I just didn't have enough time to get the caps installed so look for another one of this these kind of streams coming very soon and I'll either you know today tomorrow I'll come back I'll recap this board we'll put it back in the we'll put it back in the monitor here and we'll test it out and then we'll check out some of the adjustment stuff that has to happen to it but that's going to be it for now and part one is done so I thank you for watching if you happen to come in kind of late to the stream it looks like we kicked it over three hours today so you'll be able to come back and check this I'll have it listed as part one and it'll come up with a part two and we'll finish it up with some calibration and that'll be all thank you again everybody I appreciate all the super chats and everybody being here look for another