In recent years, the number of people interested in keeping amphibians and reptiles in captivity has grown rapidly. All too often, these same people have little knowledge of the proper care needed for their captives, nor do they know where to turn in order to learn the needs of their animals. Pet stores generally do not have the expertise to give out proper information on the identification and care of amphibians or reptiles. The booklets they sell on the subject are too general and too vague. It is the intent of the authors of this special issue to offer the proper information needed to successfully keep amphibians and reptiles in captivity. We are by no means the experts on the subject, nor do we claim to cover all the facts. However, we do hope that enough information is furnished to answer most of the common questions asked by people. The bibliography has a list of books which go into more detail on amphibians and reptiles, their identification, and natural history, range, and care in captivity. Room did not permit the inclusion of amphibian diseases, thus the bibliography will be of help there. Due to the decline in the majority of crocodilians in the world, the authors do not condone their being kept in captivity by amateur herpetologists. We also contend that venomous reptiles as well do not belong in a private collection. A note of thanks goes to the authors listed in the bibliography, for without their works this special issue would have been extremely difficult, Tom R. Johnson, Robert N. Bader, Donald J. Coxwell, and of introduction. Section 2 of Amphibians and Reptiles in Captivity by Tom R. Johnson, Robert N. Bader, and Donald J. Coxwell. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Salamanders Order Codata Background Salamanders have been on earth a very long time. As a matter of fact, the first land vertebrate animal was a type of salamander that evolved from air-breathing freshwater fish, around 300 million years ago, late Devonian period. Today they range in size from a few inches to over five feet long. The giant salamander of China and Japan reach nearly five feet in length. Salamanders require a moist environment of various degrees, from slightly moist, as with a newteft stage, to a completely aquatic existence, as with the mud puppy, hellbender, or adult newt. Nearly all salamanders require water for breeding and egg laying, but there are some varieties which lay their eggs on land, under logs or in leaf litter. There are approximately 280 species of salamanders in the world, North America, Europe, and Asia, sharing the majority of species. Missouri is the home of some two dozen species and subspecies. Selection of species to be kept. It would be erroneous to say that all species of salamanders can be successfully kept in captivity, because, as with other groups of animals, there are types which are hardy in captivity, and there are types which are extremely delicate. It is recommended that only the more hardy species be considered for keeping in the home. As far as local species are concerned, the various small salamanders, genus ambastoma, the tiger spotted in small mouse salamanders, seem to do well in captivity. They may live a long time, up to 10 or 12 years for some. They are large, hence will eat food that is more available, and they do not require a special temperature range. The central newt, no tough thalamus, variety Louisiana nensis, which is locally common, or the red spotted newt, envy viridescence, which is sold in pet stores are rather hardy, if kept properly. The mud puppy and hellbender may do well, but they require considerably more space, and should be given a few flat rocks to hide under. The smaller salamanders of Missouri are on the whole delicate and require cool temperatures. The best one to try to keep for a while in captivity is the slimy salamander, plethidone G glutinosis. The rest of the smaller salamanders, genus plethidone and urecia, are usually difficult to maintain. If you do secure some of these, it is recommended that they be kept a short time for observation, and then released in the same area where they were taken. Remember, several species of Missouri salamanders are protected by the Missouri Conservation Department. If you plan to collect your own specimens, be sure to follow all laws of the conservation department. No animal can be collected in a state or national park or taken from any cave. Housing your captive salamanders. 1. Terrestrial Land Species The first consideration for keeping terrestrial forms is proper moisture. The home terrarium with deep soil and rooted plants is very good for many salamanders, but it affords too many hiding places and you may never see your specimens. A 1-2 inch layer of soil, a third black dirt, a third peat moss, a third fine sand, works very well for most land salamanders, mole salamanders, slimy salamanders, and the California Newt.  A 5 or 10 gallon aquarium would be about the right size for keeping several salamanders. Painting the sides and back with black or dark brown paint will furnish them with added security. Never crowd too many salamanders into a small aquarium. In the wild you seldom see more than one or two individuals in any one hiding place. The soil mixture should be changed every two to three weeks because it will tend to sour from your captive's excrement. As far as lighting your vivarium, it is not necessary for the salamanders. They are all nocturnal and shy away from any direct light. Thus too much light can be harmful and can also cause the vivarium to heat up. The proper temperature for most land living salamanders is from 65 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Whatever size aquarium you intend to use to house your salamander, be very sure it has a tight screen lid. An all glass lid should not be used because it prevents circulation of air and allows the humidity to build up to nearly 100%. The soil mixture on the bottom of the vivarium should be slightly damp, not wet or soggy. For best results, a gradient of moisture from nearly dry to damp will furnish your salamanders with an environment in which they can choose their own dampness. 2. Aquatic Species Aquatic salamanders do well in an aquarium with a thin layer of gravel on the bottom, a few rocks and a few plants. Once again, a 5 or 10 gallon aquarium would be the right size, but be sure that the top is tight. Aquatic salamanders can also climb out. The water should be changed as often as necessary to keep it clear and odor-free. Use spring water or aged tap water to ensure that they are not exposed to any chlorine. The use of an aquarium filter will help keep the salamanders clean. The water temperature should be kept at between 65 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. If you wish to illuminate the aquarium, use a fluorescent lamp, not an incandescent lamp. Never expose your salamanders to long periods of light or very harsh light. 4. Food and Feeding The universal food item that can be fed to most of the salamanders discussed above is the earthworm. Worms are the natural food for many of them. They can be stored alive, they can be collected easily, or purchased at a bait-chop. They supply most of the nutritional needs for salamanders, and they come in various sizes. For large salamanders, the worms can be fed to them whole. Or for smaller species, the worms can be chopped into small pieces and offered to the salamander on the end of a thin wire. Of course, insects of all sorts can be offered to salamanders. You can collect them yourself or purchase crickets or male worms at a bait-chop or pet-chop. You may even try feeding small pieces of liver, beef, or even canned dog food, as well as small strips of raw fish. Salamanders, like other amphibians, will do well if fed three times per week. Dusting the food with calcium phosphorus powder will help to keep your specimens healthy. Salamanders feed on live, moving animals, thus they usually eat best if stimulated by movement. The food can be held with long forceps or on a thin wire, and waved in front of the salamander. Food not eaten should be removed at once. Salamanders are rather delicate animals, and they do best if they are handled as little as possible. With proper care and attention, salamanders can be very interesting and attractive animals in captivity. TRJ End of Section 2 Section 3 of Amphibians and Reptiles in Captivity by Tom R. Johnson, Robert N. Bader, and Donald J. Cockswell. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Toads and Frogs Order a Nura Background The toads and frogs evolved from salamanders some 180 million years ago, Triassic period. They have changed little since they developed the large, jumping-type legs, and have become very successful. Today there are over 2,600 species of toads and frogs, and they live in a variety of environments. With proper care, most toads and frogs do quite well in captivity. Knowing their natural history can help to furnish the keeper with the information necessary to keep these amphibians in good health. Selection of Species to be Kept The selection of the proper Anurian toads and frogs for you to keep depends partially on where your interests lie. If you are interested in toads, then the common species in your area may be selected. Missouri common toads include the American and the Fowlers toad. The very large marine toad, Bufo marinas. It's a species that is quite hardy in captivity, and are not expensive to purchase. Spadefoot toads, genus Skephiopis, are rather difficult to collect, except during their breeding season, and they are extremely shy and rather difficult to keep. They do not make a very good study animal, because they tend to spend a great deal of time buried at the bottom of their bivarium. The tree frogs generally do well in captivity, but only the larger species should be considered. The very small varieties should be delicate, and require very small insects to feed on. The gray tree frog, Hyla versicolor, and green tree frog, Hyla cineria, both are found in Missouri, as well as the barking tree frog and Cuban tree frog, Florida species, are easily kept, provided they are given a variety of live insects to eat. The majority of true frogs, genus Rana, can be kept with little trouble, but, as with all animals, they should be kept as clean as possible. The leopard frog, Rana pipiens, blaria, and eutracularia, will do well, so also will the green and bullfrog, Rana clematans, and Rana ketaspiana. Because they are bred in captivity, the clawed frog, Xenopus, of Africa, is available in many pet stores at reasonable prices. These completely aquatic frogs can do quite well in captivity. Another tropical frog, species that is often sold in pet stores, is the South American horned frog, Cerratophorus, which will eat both crickets and baby mice. Choosing other species not listed in this section, will have to be done at the discretion of the person keeping them. You may choose a species that is either too fragile, as with very small toads or tree frogs, or if exotic species are what you're interested in, their price may be the deciding factor. Some Central American frogs can be expensive. No matter what type of toad or frog you intend to keep, remember that they require live food and should never be kept in crowded conditions. Thus keep in mind that insects are difficult to secure in the winter, and the more specimens you have, the greater the problem will be to feed them. It is recommended that only one or two toads or frogs be kept at one time. Get to know the animals, learn from them, and then move on to other species. Release native species in a suitable area, but never release non-native species into a new area. Give them to a zoo or biology teacher. One last reminder. Always wash your hands after having handled your captives. The skin secretions can be very irritating to the eyes. Housing your captive toad or frog. As with salamanders, the toads and frogs can be put into two categories. One aquatic and two terrestrial, living on land. Both types of amphibians can be successfully kept in aquaria. One aquatic and semi-aquatic toads and frogs. The truly aquatic toads and frogs that are often kept in captivity by amateur herpetologists are the South American Suriname toad, Pippa Pippa, and the African collod frog, Xenopus lavis. Both forms can be kept in a 10 gallon aquarium with gravel on the bottom, a few rocks, and some aquatic plants. A secure top should always cover the top of the aquarium. The water should be filtered, and a temperature 70 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit will do nicely for these species. The water level of the aquarium can be from 6 to 10 inches. Many of the true frogs, genus Rana, can be kept in a semi-aquatic condition. That is a few inches of water on one end of the aquarium and some type of land area on the other end. In this way the frog can either be in the water or out, whatever it wishes. One way to set up this situation would be to use a 10 gallon aquarium with a little gravel on the bottom, and a few large flat rocks for the frogs to climb onto can be put in. A screen top must be put on the top to keep the frogs inside. If both frogs, Rana Kettisbiana, are to be kept, a 15 or 20 gallon aquarium would be needed. With this set up the water should be changed at least twice per week. To give the amphibians a sense of security, the back and sides of the aquarium should be painted a dark brown or black, paint the outside glass. Try to avoid any bright lights over your toads or frogs aquarium. Two, terrestrial and arboreal species. All of our native toads are adapted to life on land. In captivity they will do well if given a few inches of soil, a third black dirt, a third peat moss, and a third fine sand. A few pieces of bark to hide under and a small shallow dish of water. A 5 to 10 gallon aquarium will do. The sides and back should be painted a dark brown or black and a screen top will be needed to keep them inside. The soil mixture should be replaced every few weeks for proper sanitation. If the soil mixture becomes too wet it should be replaced. Besides most toads, the South American horned frog, Serotophorus, the African burrowing frog, Pixycephalus, and the spayed foot toads, Skephippus, can be kept in this type of vibarium. However, if you notice at the bottom of the toads or frogs hind feet are becoming raw from too much digging, it may be best to keep them on wet paper towels rather than on any soil. Tree frogs. A typical terrarium Serotophorus will work very well for most tree frogs. But even though you may have the most beautiful terrarium plants, the tree frogs will spend most of their time sticking to the upper corners of the aquarium. Besides plants a few small branches and a shallow water dish are also required. Spraying the terrarium once a day will do the tree frogs and the plants some good. The temperature for most tree frogs or terrestrial toads and frogs can range from 68 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. However, tropical species should not fall below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Food and Feeding. Becoming familiar with the natural history of your captive amphibian will help you determine what they can be fed. Giving your toad or frog a variety of live insects is a good practice. For the totally aquatic species, earthworms, minnows, goldfish, shrimp, and even small tadpoles are all eaten by them. If these are not available, try small pieces of raw fish, liver, or beef. Toads and large frogs will eat mice, the size depending on the size of the toad or frog. Feeding your animals by just dumping in a number of crickets, worms, or flies is a very poor management practice. For one thing, if you have several toads or frogs in one aquarium, the stronger, more alert animal will probably eat more than the others, and one or two will be underfed. Also, if you add live crickets to a well-planted terrarium, many of the plants will be eaten by the crickets before they are eaten up themselves. It is thus strongly recommended that all your toads and frogs be fed by hand, using a thin wire or long pair of forceps. Place the cricketer worm on the end of the wire and move it in front of the amphibian. In this way, you can be sure all are getting the proper amount of food, and this is also a good way to feed such things as liver or pieces of raw beef. As a general rule, all your toads and frogs will do well if fed on a regular basis of two to three times per week. It is good practice to dust the worms or insects once a week with a calcium phosphorus powder. This will supply your specimens with the much needed minerals. Tadpoles. It happens so often that people have seen tadpoles, toad and frog larvae, in ponds or puddles, well out in the country, and have taken them home, only to find out they have no idea how to care for them. The development of these amphibians can be a real learning experience for children, and with proper care your tadpoles can mature to small toads or frogs. Overcrowding and lack of proper food are two mistakes made most often by people who try to keep tadpoles. One half to one dozen is more than enough to try to keep. Put them in a shallow pan with one to three inches of water in it. The larger the tadpoles, the deeper the water should be. Insert an air stone to keep the water in motion. No rocks or gravel are needed, but some live aquatic plants can be put in with them. Keep them clean. Never allow the water to stand dirty for more than a few hours. Be sure that the clean water is free from chlorine. To feed your tadpoles it is essential to give them a variety, and to furnish them with both plant and animal foods. Their staple diet should be boiled lettuce, rabbit chow, and cooked liver. Give them small amounts of food at one time. You can feed them three to four times a day. When you see the water is becoming dirty, change it. You may want to try and feed them a tropical fish food called molly flake food, or you might try some hard-boiled egg. Keep the water temperature at 70 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the tadpoles begin to lose their tails, grow front legs, and take in air at the surface, they are beginning to turn into a toad or frog. At this stage they should not be disturbed. When they no longer have any tail and stay out of the water, they can be fed a variety of small insects or small pieces of earthworm. Section 4 of Amphibians and Reptiles and Captivity by Tom R. Johnson, Robert N. Bader, and Donald J. Coxwell. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Turtles and Tortoises, Order Jelonia. Overview Large numbers of hatchling and adult turtles are sold or traded each year in the United States. Unfortunately, from the point of view of the turtles themselves, the majority of them are condemned to death by unintentional maltreatment and few managed to survive a year. The species most often abused is the red-eared slider, chrysalis scripta elegans. Next most common are the map turtles, graptomy, and third in abundance are the painted turtles, chrysalis picta. All are water turtles and require much the same care and captivity, since the red-eared slider is the most common of all, the general account that follows is based upon the slider group of turtles. This is the largest group of native turtles, including some 16 different kinds. All live in ponds and lakes and may be given about the same care and captivity. Comparisons with other groups follow the general account, save the tortoises, or dry land turtles, which will be discussed in more detail after the aquatic turtle account. Aquatic species, description and diet. Water turtles, such as the red-eared slider, vary in color and usually have webbed feet for swimming. These turtles are generally carnivorous, meat eaters, and their primary diet consists of chopped raw beef, horse meat, fish, worms, and also aquatic greens. Some water turtles will eat bits of green leafy vegetables such as fresh greens, lettuce, endive, and spinach. All turtles are different, however, and a variety of foods should be offered to determine their likes and dislikes. Food supplements should also be used. Some of these are cod liver oil, liquid multiple vitamins, and powdered calcium or bone meal. These may be added directly to their food. Box, wood, and Mullenberg's turtles, or other semi-aquatic species, do well in captivity when a basin of shallow water is provided for soaking. Diamondbacks need brackish or slightly salty water. These also generally eat vegetable matter as well as meat. All weather care. As these turtles are generally kept indoors, an aquarium is the best means of maintaining them. Temperatures may be controlled by the use of a heater, thermostat, and thermometer. The best temperature will range between 72 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. A filter and pump may be used to keep the water clean. It is advisable to feed the turtles in a separate container as foods foul the water quickly. The aquarium and accessories should be kept clean and scrubbed periodically. Water turtles may be kept out of water for some time, if necessary, with no ill effects. However, they cannot eat out of the water. These turtles must also have sunlight in order to grow and maintain a hard shell and sound bones. They should be allowed to sun at least twice a week, always with a shade of some type over a portion of the container, so they will not become overheated. The aquarium itself should be arranged so that the turtles can leave the water at will and dry themselves periodically. A cluster of smooth, flat rocks in the middle, or at one end of the aquarium, will permit them to do so. Dry land species. Description and diet. Tortoise is the term generally used in referring to dry land turtles. They seldom swim or enter the water. Carapace and plastron, upper and lower shell, range from light tan to dark brown in color. The skin is rough, appearing, and the legs are scaled and elephant-like, with no webbing of the feet. Food consists of vegetables, fruits, grass cuttings, dandelions, petals from various garden flowers, bits of raw meat that is finely chopped, and canned dog food. Foods such as carrots, string beans, and corn are valuable in the diet and should be ground or scraped. Many of the tortoises are fond of earthworms, so they should also be offered. Food supplements such as cod liver oil, liquid multiple vitamins, powdered calcium, and bone meal should also be added to the food periodically. Box, wood, and Mullenberg's turtles, as well as other semi-aquatic species, will do well in captivity if a shallow water dish is provided. These species will generally eat meat as well as vegetable matter. Cold weather care. In the fall, around late October or early November, your tortoise will want to hibernate. It will probably dig its burrow out of doors, given it is in the correct environment. If the conditions outside are not proper for your tortoise to burrow, he may be placed in a box in a cool dry area where a constant temperature can be maintained, such as a garage. Cover him with a layer or two of old shredding newspapers. He is now ready to be stored for the winter. If your tortoise is to spend the winter in the house, be sure to keep food and water available. House temperatures do not permit a tortoise to hibernate properly, and starvation is possible if he is not allowed to eat when he stirs about during the winter. Hot weather care. Hibernation ends sometime in spring, usually in March. The tortoise may be a little sluggish at first, but as the weather becomes warmer, interest in appetite improve. Water, food, and shelter from the sun must always be available, and a night shelter is advised. Illness and treatments. Most turtle owners are familiar with the basic care requirements of their pets. However, there are a few common ailments that may require prompt treatment. The simple remedies here have been found to be successful in many cases. Respiratory ailments. Turtles and tortoises are usually susceptible to colds and pneumonia. Bubbling of the nose and mouth and gasping are symptoms of this. Isolation from the other turtles in a heated box or aquarium is mandatory. A heat lamp may be used several times a day, but always with a shaded corner into which the turtle can crawl when he gets too hot. Cold remedy salves can also be rubbed on the turtle's nose to help relieve congestion. The turtle should be kept warm and isolated until all traces of his cold have disappeared. Injection of an antibiotic serum into the leg or forelimb once a day is sometimes successful, as well as antibiotic pills given orally. But consult a veterinarian or society member before attempting this, as some drugs are dangerous for turtles. If caught in its early stages pneumonia can be overcome. The turtle in question should be isolated and kept warm, and the following medicine should be administered with an eyedropper. Dissolve together, half an ounce of water, one tablet, chloro-tetracycline, four to five drops, liquid vitamins. Administer daily for two days and then skip a day. Repeat. This formula has proven itself quite effective after five or six days. Cracked shell. Immediately place the injured turtle in a clean, paper towel lined box and bring indoors so that ants and flies do not torment him. If shell is bleeding, gently wash it with a mild solution of boric acid and pat dry. This may have to be done several times before bleeding stops. Put his box in a warm quiet spot in the house and leave him completely alone, except for offering a shallow bowl of drinking water from time to time. If he survives the first twenty-four hours he will probably pull through. The lungs are under the carapace and if the broken shell has penetrated the lung area there is practically nothing that could be done for the turtle. If the wound is bad or jagged it may be filled with Canadian balsam after bleeding has stopped and then securely tape with electrician's tape. The tape may be left on for several months if necessary, but it should be checked every six weeks or so to make sure infection has not set in. Once the turtle has started eating and resumed his normal routine he is probably well on the road to recovery. Soft shell and swollen eyes. This is almost always due to an improper diet and lack of direct sunlight. Add vitamins and ground bone meal to the food. Offer raw, lean, chopped meat and see that the turtle is placed in direct sunlight for several hours each day. When turtles are placed in direct sun they must have a shaded area into which they can retreat when the temperature goes too high. Soil and eyes may also be bathed in the dilute solution of boric acid to relieve swelling and puffiness. Fungus. This appears as white spots, lumps or flakes on the skin or shell. Addition of plain table salt to the aquarium water will often cure the condition. Fungus on the shell may be helped by painting the area with 5% iodine or 2% gentian violet solution. Always keep the turtle out of water for a period of two to four hours after applying either iodine or gentian violet, so as not to wash the medication from the shell or skin. If the fungus continues after several treatments, allow a week or so before experimenting with another medication as many times the combination of medications can be detrimental to the turtle. Parasites. Parasites may be suspected if the turtle suffers a great loss of weight or a loss of appetite without apparent cause or if he has a ravenous appetite. Parasites may be evident in the stools but are not always readily seen. If suspected have a veterinarian diagnose and treat his condition. In addition shots of vitamins can be administered periodically for maintaining good health. If however the turtle is on the proper diet, shots such as these may not be needed. Conclusion. Many different kinds of turtles make satisfactory additions for your collection. Actually every one of our native turtles, at least one small in size, can be acceptable. Liger examples of some species however are sometimes unpleasant and even positively dangerous as members of your collection. Below is a list of those turtles that should be avoided by the amateur herpetologist. Adults. Common snapping turtles. Alligator snapping turtles. Soft shell turtles. Very large sliders. Musk turtles. Mud turtles. The larger species or large adults of some species tend to become aggressive and dangerous as they grow older and many times a finger is mistaken for a morsel of food. Avoid the aforementioned turtles if your interest in these hard-shelled friends is new. These are some turtles of course that can be handled without fear of biting or scratching. Any of the smaller species of sliders can make acceptable additions to your collection. Below is a list of those turtles that are and may be handled and studied by the amateur. Young. Common snapping turtle. Soft shelled turtles. Sliders. Musk turtles. Mud turtles. Diamondback terrapin. Although young turtles make safe additions to your collection, land turtles of all kinds are best, seldom if ever bite, feed readily and survive a long time in captivity. They include Eastern, Florida, Three-Towed and Ornate box turtles and the red-footed tortoise. None of these are commonly available from commercial dealers, however. End of Section 4. Section 5 of Amphibians and Reptiles in Captivity by Tom R. Johnson, Robert N. Bader and Donald J. Coxwell. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Lizards. Order Squamara. Suborder Lacertilia. Keeping lizards as pets can be a very challenging task because it has been found that many species will not thrive in captivity. When looking for a lizard to buy or catch, keep in mind some of the basic requirements the animals should have while you are choosing a lizard. The lizard should be alert and active. Check its mouth for signs of sores, bad teeth or gums, or other indications of mouth rot. Check the eyes for discharges. Make sure the eyes are not sunken into the head. Observe it walking to ensure there is no damage to the limbs. Do not accept a lizard that has a discharge from the nose. This could be a symptom of a respiratory infection. Lizards vary a great deal in their dietary requirements. Therefore, it is very important that you are very sure of the animal's identification before you purchase or collect it. You cannot always rely on the pet store dealer for an accurate identification. If the lizard is one that you have caught, then you can refer to a field guide for a positive identification. Some lizards are strictly insect-eaters. Others eat only fruits and vegetables. Some will only eat meat. A few lizards will only eat eggs. And then there are some that will eat nearly anything. Most insectivores will only eat live insects. If it is hard to get live insects, you may be able to get the lizard to accept dead food by offering it on the end of a thin wire. By moving the insect, the lizard will think it is alive and often will grasp the food. Insectivores require a large amount of food and the food should be varied. Don't feed all mealworms or all crickets, but try to offer a variety of insects. The vegetarians or herbivores need to be fed a mixed variety of fruits and vegetables. Often color will induce a lizard to eat, so always include some apple or tomato to the diet if the lizard doesn't seem interested in food. The meat-eaters are often the easiest to induce to eat. Can dog food is usually used as a basic, but whole mice are much more of a balanced diet. Sometimes it is necessary to skin the mouse in order to get the lizard to eat it. Whatever dietary requirements your lizards have, their food should be supplemented with a vitamin and mineral powder. Steamed bone meal is often used. Just sprinkle a small amount on the food and then mix it in so the lizards will take it in with their food. Although the size of the cage is usually not critical for lizards, cage props may be essential in order to ensure that the animal thrives. If the lizard is a borrower in the wild, then it is often necessary that it be able to borrow in captivity. If the animal is normally arboreal, then you must have a branch for it to climb on. Because of this, it is important that you know what species of lizard you have, then learn as much as possible about its habits and habitat. Besides cage decorations, always have clean drinking water in the cage. Many species of lizards do not drink from a water dish. They obtain their water from dew drops, or raindrops, that they lap with their tongues. It is advisable to spray the lizard's cage daily with a fine mist of warm water. An important requirement for lizards is sunlight. Often a lizard seems to be eating and doing well in captivity, but suddenly dies. This may be due to a lack of sunlight. In many instances, the animal may not eat it all. If direct sunlight is not available, it can be substituted by the use of a vitalite bulb. This bulb, which looks like a fluorescent bulb, can be purchased from a large plant store or directly from the manufacturer. Lizards often have a more precise temperature requirement than other reptiles. A daytime temperature range of 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit and dropping to 80 degrees Fahrenheit at night is usually best for the tropical species. Many of the North American desert species also require a high daytime temperature. Adexthegous and monitors can be kept at slightly lower temperatures, usually from 72 to 76 degrees Fahrenheit. As with snakes, the temperature in the lizard's cage can be controlled with a light bulb. The size of the cage will determine the size of the bulb needed. As previously stated, temperature can be critical and many lizards will die if not kept warm enough. Never guess at the cage temperature. Always have a small thermometer in the cage and check it often. Keeping lizards healthy can be a challenging but also frustrating experience. There is very little information available on lizard diseases. These reptiles are susceptible to many of the diseases that snakes get, and often the symptoms are the same. Lizards can get mouth rot, respiratory infections, parasites, both internal and external, eye infections, and other common reptile diseases. One disease that is common in lizards is the impaction of the intestines. This is common in insect eaters that are being fed only mealworms. Often the impaction is not noticed until after the animal dies. If the lizard is alone, keep track of its food intake and fecal output. If an extended period goes by and the lizard is not making fecal matter, then there could be a physical blockage in the intestine. Put a little mineral oil up the cloaca. This will help to loosen the blockage. The best cure is preventative procedures. Feed a variety of insects if possible, but don't feed all mealworms. The other diseases that lizards are susceptible to can be treated by using the same medications used for snakes. Dosages, of course, must be less, for we are usually dealing with a much smaller animal. Good husbandry, along with preventative medicine, are the best ways to keep your lizard healthy. Keep the cage clean, feed a proper diet, supply sunlight or artificial light, and most important, know the lizard's requirements and natural history. The following is a list of lizards that usually can be kept successfully in captivity. Green iguana. A lizard from Central and South America, mostly herbivorous, is arboreal and can grow to six feet. Tegu, a large carnivore from South America, feeds on mouse, not tame. Monitors, large carnivores from the old world, most do well. Glass lizards, insectivores from North America, will eat dog food till breaks off easily. Tokegeko, will eat any small animal or insect, make good pets. Amoebas, same as Tegu. Most lizards from Missouri should be kept during the summer, then released in early fall where they were collected. Lizards that do not make good pets are horned lizards and knolls, collared lizards and fence lizards. As with all animals, there are exceptions to the rule. An iguana may refuse to eat, or a collared lizard may do well for years. Each reptile within a species may act differently from how the whole species may act in captivity. Knowing the lizard's habitat and habits, will be the deciding factor in keeping the animal alive and healthy in captivity. End of Section 5 Section 6 of Amphibians and Reptiles in Captivity by Tom R. Johnson, Robert N. Bader, and Donald J. Cockswell. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Snakes. Orda scumata, suborder sopentis. There are many species of snakes throughout the world, over 2,700 species. Some of these make very good pets, while others never seem to thrive in captivity. Because of the many varieties of snakes, the care of them can vary quite a bit. There are a few basic needs that all snakes, regardless of the species, require in order to do well in captivity. All snakes are carnivorous.  This food may vary from termites to rabbits, with all types of animals in between. This sometimes includes other snakes. Snakes require clean drinking water, a clean cage to live in, and an all-around healthy environment. The above requirements are easy to meet, but they must not be treated lightly. After the basics are met, there are other requirements that each individual species may need. A common problem with keeping snakes is they often will not eat. Sometimes the reason is simply that they are not satisfied with their environment. Snakes that are arboreal will need a limb in their cage. If they don't have something to climb on, they may refuse to eat. Tropical snakes require a higher cage temperature than what is normal room temperature. This can be accomplished by putting a heat lamp above the cage. Always monitor the temperature with a thermometer and try to maintain it around 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Certain species of snakes spend a great deal of time borrowing, and unless they can borrow in their cage, they may not eat. Many of the more nervous species of snakes, like the racers, require a hiding box so that they will feel secure. The hiding box is often a good idea for any snake that may refuse to eat if all other conditions are favorable. Food preference can be an important factor, even with snakes of the same species. Snakes from aquatic habitats generally eat only fish and amphibians. Non-constricting snakes, racers and coachwhip snakes, generally do not eat large rodents or birds, but limit their diet to amphibians, baby rodents, bird eggs, lizards, and even small snakes. The constrictors are usually entirely rodent and bird feeders. There are, of course, exceptions, and some snakes, like the large, non-constricting Eastern indigo, drymarcon, cares, cupiri, which will eat nearly anything from toads and frogs to adult rats. Just as species of snakes vary in their diet, so do individuals within a species. Fortunately, this is not very common. There are cases of a particular snake eating only a specific food animal. If a rat snake is not eating mice, it might be induced to feed on a different type of rodent or a bird. Many snakes in the wild are nocturnal, and sometimes a particular snake will only eat a fed-at-night with all the lights out. Always feed the rodent eaters dead food. Often this will cause a problem with newly collected animals, but with a little time, your snake will usually learn to accept dead food. The reason for feeding dead food animals is to protect the snake from getting a serious bite from a rat or mouse, if the snake is feeding on insects, fish, or amphibians, the food can simply be placed in the cage with the snake. If there is more than one snake in the cage, you should observe the feeding so as to ensure that one snake does not swallow the other snake along with its meal. If one or both snakes are nervous feeders, they should be separated during the feeding procedure. Occasionally one will come across a snake that will absolutely refuse to eat under any type of condition. Even though snakes can go for months without food, eventually a snake will starve to death. If a snake doesn't eat, it is most advisable to try to release it in an area where it is native to. Ideally it should be released where it was collected. If the snake is not native to your area, you may have to force feed the snake as a last resort. It is usually best to try to force a small food animal into the snake. Always use a blunt, rounded rod, and be very careful not to injure the gums or mouth of the snake. Snakes can be sustained for long periods of time by force feeding, but this procedure will only forestall death for a short time in many cases. Once your snake proves to be a feeder, your next major concern is health. Snakes like all other animals are susceptible to many types of diseases. Many of these diseases can be prevented with good husbandry practices. A common ailment is mouse rot or kinkermouse. This is a bacterial infection of the mouth and gums that generally starts from an injury to the snake's mouth. The first symptoms are sores in the mouth, especially along the edges of the gums. As the disease progresses, a white, cheesy-like substance is formed in the mouth and under the lips. The more advanced the infection, the more substance is formed. Although the actual mouse rot might not kill the snake, the animal will often refuse food and is also very susceptible to secondary infections, which could be fatal. Treatment in the early stages is very simple and can be very successful. Many different drugs can be used, most of which have a sulfur base. Solmet is a common medication that is often used.  Also, add some medication to the drinking water. More advanced cases would need to be treated with antibiotic injections. Dosage depends on the size of the snake and the concentration of the medication. Respiratory infections are a major concern to anyone keeping snakes. They generally catch colds from being kept in drafts or at low temperatures for an extended length of time. The species of snake will determine its temperature requirements. A native North American snake will have a higher tolerance for cooler temperatures than a snake from the tropics. The first symptom of a respiratory infection to look for would be bubbles in the mouth.  Untreated, a cold can develop into pneumonia and cause death. Treatment is easy and effective if given soon enough. First, keep the snake warm. A temperature between 80 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit is recommended. The snake will need injections of an antibiotic, such as tetracycline or chloramocytin. The size of the snake will determine the dosage. The injections are usually given at daily intervals for several days. If you are in an area where there is a veterinarian that can treat exotic animals, he should be consulted before any treatment is used. There are several other physiological diseases that snakes are susceptible to, but the above mentioned are the most common. Knowing your snake and observing it daily will be a good way to keep track of its health. Any unusual activity could be an indication of an illness. Refusing to eat, regurgitation after eating, inactivity for long periods of time, or even difficulty in shedding its skin are all signs that something may be wrong with your reptile. Keeping good records on the snake will be very beneficial in determining if the snake is acting normal or not. Write down when and what the snake eats, when it sheds, you may want to measure the skin each shedding to see if the snake has grown, when there is a stool, and if the animal regurgitates. The above are some of the basic routine procedures that should be kept track of in order for you to better determine the health of your snake. The second major health problem you may have to deal with is parasites, both internal and external. There are many types of internal parasites which snakes are susceptible to. Only proper diagnosis of the type of parasite will determine the right medication for treatment. Determining the type of parasite involved is done by fecal analysis. If a snake is eating and losing weight, or if it regurgitates a day or so after eating, then there is a reason to suspect worms. Warming of snakes is a very simple procedure, but it must not be done unless you are using the proper medication. Most warming medications are in liquid form and they can be squirted down the snake's throat or injected into a food animal. Any snake that is suspected of having parasites or any new snake in your collection should have a fecal analysis done by a veterinarian. External parasites are of two types, mites and ticks. Ticks are usually encountered on newly purchased or captured specimens. Removal is done by pulling them off with a pair of forceps. Try to get all of the tick out from under the skin. Mites can be a serious problem and once they appear in a collection, they may show up again and again, even after it was thought that they had all been eradicated.  They are often seen in the water dish even before they are seen on the snake. Control is very simple. The no pest strip is very effective in controlling mites. It is generally recommended to attach a piece of the strip on the inside top of the cage. Since the vapor fumes are heavier than air, they will float to the bottom of the cage. The water dish should thus be taken out of the cage, but everything else, including the snake, should be left in the cage. Allow the strip to remain in the cage for two days. Remove the strip, thoroughly disinfect the cage, the strip will have killed all the adult mites but not the eggs. It is most important to replace the strip in about two weeks, then repeat the cleaning procedure. The no pest strip will also help to control ticks and flies. Housing requirements are not as critical for snakes as they may be for other amphibians and reptiles. Some collectors build their own cages, others use store-bought cages. This author prefers glass aquarium-type cages with screen tops. The aquarium-type is easy to clean. It is often recommended to darken three sides of the aquarium in order to give the snake a sense of security. Cage bedding is up to the keeper. Natural rock or sand may look good, but are much harder to keep clean. It is recommended that newspaper be used on the bottom of your aquarium or wooden snake cage. The amount of space required by your snake is rather small. Snake spends so much time coiled up in one corner or on a tree branch that the large snake cage is of little value. A cage the size of a 10 gallon aquarium will be large enough for all but the large pythons or boas over five feet. Remember to keep the snake's native habitat in mind if you're going to decorate the cage. A snake cage should not be kept wet or damp. Even water snakes need only a dish of water for drinking. What snake makes the best pet is a hard question to answer. The following list will give you an idea of some of the species commonly kept as pets. Rat snakes genus Elafi Rodent eaters from eastern and southern U.S. average size up to four feet are prone to bite when first caught but usually tamed down. The red rat snake Elafi G. Gutata is one of the most beautiful of North American snakes. King snakes and milk snakes genus lamb propeltus usually eat small rodents lizards and small snakes. Disposition same as rat snakes. Bull snake pitu office melanolucous sei'ai A large constrictor and the largest snake native to Missouri will eat adult rats mice and baby chicks usually do well in captivity. Water snakes genus Natrix will eat minnows frogs tadpoles and sometimes mice. They will bite when captured and will at times continue to bite after being in captivity for a long time. Hog nose snake genus heterodon a smaller variety averages two to two and a half feet feeds only on toads but nearly always eats in captivity. Boa constrictor boa constrictor one of the most commonly kept snakes being a tropical snake it must be kept warm 80 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit will eat rodents and birds. Burmese python python malaris bivatus which may reach 20 to 24 feet long is often kept as a pet by the amateur snake collector. They require the same temperature and food as the boa constrictor. Reticulated python python reticulatus same as the Burmese python but will grow longer. Large specimens will eat rabbits. African rock python python sebae same in general needs as the Burmese python will grow slightly longer and may not tame as easily as some other species. Large specimens will eat rabbits. Ball python python regius another species from Africa but averages three to four feet in length usually a good feeder on rodents but at times may only eat birds requires the same needs as other tropical species. The following is a list of snakes that may have a few drawbacks as pets or are not recommended to keep in captivity. Racers and coach whips colobur and mastocophus very nervous seldom eat in captivity. Ringneck brown and other small burrowing snakes. These secretive species often will not eat in captivity and require animal foods which may be difficult to secure. Ribbon garter and green snakes because they may be hard to feed in winter it is best to keep only during the summer months. Eastern indigo snake drymarcon corres cupari this species is protected in the state of Florida and is becoming rare over all its range. Cook's treboa Corralis and Nidrus cookieeye this species as well as other treboas often have a bad disposition and may feed only on birds. Emerald treboa Corralis canina not only does this species prefer birds to eat they also seem to require a very high humidity. Most tropical snakes do not do well in captivity this may be due to the fact that they are taken out of their natural environment and it is next to impossible to duplicate the climatic conditions that they are used to. Although the above lists are far from complete it is hoped that they will give the reader some basic idea on how to select the snakes for his small home collection. Once again it should be emphasized that within a particular species of snake there may be some differences in individual personalities. It is possible to get a black rat snake that doesn't eat or a racer genus coluber that does not bite and eats well in captivity. A person should learn from their own experiences and also from the experiences of others both professional and amateur. The keeping of snakes can be a very rewarding and enjoyable experience but it must be remembered that it is also a responsibility. You are responsible for the care and well-being of an animal. You must learn as much as possible about the requirements of a particular snake before you decide to keep it as a pet. R and B End of section six and end of amphibians and reptiles in captivity by Tom R. Johnson, Robert N. Bader, and Donald J. Coxwell.


I shouldn't have switched, I should have just kept the pressure. I didn't know I was gonna be on that side though. Oh! Happy Double Sunday! Woohoo!  Oh my god! Ha ha ha ha! How's it going everybody? Datodoi here with another round of Dragon Ball FighterZ Rank Matches and today we are playing a family team for the Sun Goku family. So we got Gohan, base Goku and Bardock. Admittedly we could have chosen any Goku, but I feel like base Goku fits the the hair aesthetic a little more. Yoncha dude, good. Also this is a Pride Triple Rank we're messing with, so this might not be the best time for a theme team, but you know we gotta bust him out when we can. Aw, I wanted the side switch so bad! Oh, nicely done dude. Yeah, he can't kill, he doesn't have too much bar here. I adjust the 1, can he do anything with that? Nice, that's a punish. How big of a punish can he get? Leg loops coming out. Okay. Wow! Is that the setup? Okay, I jumped. I jumped. I don't know why. Jumping was not very smart there, but I did it. What was that? Yeah, I think I'm just going to switch him out. I don't really have much I could go for here. Oh, jumped out of the way of that. Oh, key blasts too slow. For Force Palm I guess. Whatever the Gohan players call it. Ah, no blocks! I'm not good enough. I'm not really comboing off of that. Okay, good enough. Is that low for, is that low enough for a kill? It has to be dude. I should have let, I should have, it's like it wasn't enough. Aw, I thought we had that. Get down. I don't want to see you. Don't talk to me. Back dash. I jumped, I jumped. 6 and the deadliest mixup tool in Goku Black's arsenal.  Let him go, let him go! Man child is gone. If you think about it, that was just a really fast way to get base Goku to level 20. Hey, I'm always looking on the brighter side of things, baby. I meant to vanish.  But we ain't dealing with a nice guy, dude. This is a savage. We got a real savage in the building the night, ladies and gents. I can't believe Gohan died like that. That was so bad on my part. Let's improve that. Oh, the cross up and damn, Gohan got the range. My dude crossed me up from like 6 miles away. Dude, too far, too far. I don't know why I'm guard canceling. It's really not the best option here. Unless he really over commits. I'm just trying to switch up his momentum. I don't want him to have everybody out. No! Alright, well, I can't get much off of here, but I do want sliding. No, I didn't mean to lead with the jumping light. He could kill here if he wants to, and he probably does want to. He messes up. My Sanko. I'll take it. I'm glad I got hit by that beam. Bardock privilege. No down heavy comes out. Really? I couldn't get... I thought I had my smash property. I was trying to... Wow, he's not killing me. Low. Okay, I didn't expect the low. I thought of anything else but the low. Alright, we're trying our best, dude. Oh, dude! My man swiped me. I'll take it. The single hit beam. It's supposed to be downwards. Another super dash. I didn't expect it. Base Goku. That was kind of wild, dude. Okay, Base Goku. I see you, dude. I see you, dog. Ah, he got me. He got my number on that one. He got my number big time on that one. Okay, Bardock level 3. Almost full health with sparking though. I could have done so much more. I could have gotten a nice level 3 sliding. Instead, we're probably going to get hard knocked down. Yeah, welcome to the... Welcome to the hard knocked down life. How does he try to read my sparking? Because I feel like it's pretty obvious. I should have just sparked. That wasn't an answer to sparking, I don't think. Nice, EX just socked him one. We can still win this. We can still win this. How do we win this, though, is the question. Really? You just did that? Sliding? Yeah, I'm trying to... I'm popping up. Super Dash. He can't kill. Or maybe he can. Wait. Wait, how much damage? Maybe we can win? Got a level 3 hard knocked down. This is the clutch, baby. You got to leave it to the OG Son Goku. Low. Oh, let's get it. You thought you weren't going to catch the legwork. That's crazy that you thought that. Let's go, Bardock. Bardock with the hard carry, that match. Actually, base Goku did a little... Okay. Oh, another cross up. How many times we crossing up tonight? Oh, God, I was going to be upset. Healy, dude. I should never start super dashing that early. I should at least hold it for a little while. We go down. I thought it was going to... Nice, nice, nice. Nice, nice. No, that low was so quick. That low was crazy fast. Drop it, drop it. Ah, leg loops. Leg loops in the corner. What can you do? Except for getting knocked down. No, I couldn't get the reflect for the 6M. Ah, we're going for a ride. We won't die, but we will get seriously hurt. Dude, I can't believe that 2S was that fast. All right, all right. Nice. Didn't get the confirm off of it, so I'm grateful for that. Okay, finally we can switch this. Actually, let's... No, you know what? If he wants to play Gohan so bad, he can play Gohan.  Just reflect those, dude. I got to be able to reflect those. Anything else, I'm just getting eaten alive. Block, it's so risky. Reflecting Super Dashes is like the next level of gameplay for me. Consistently. Ah, nice. We got eaten alive this game. Spearball into, what, Gohan? Yep, I can respect it. I can't respect... I don't want to respect... Oh, just out-neutral. Really, out-neutral again. I didn't even get the... I didn't even get the Super Dash of the Space. Drop it. Miss it. Damn it. Okay, 2-1. This guy's up. This Pride Trooper. I just need to... Do we just go in?  I think we actually have to go smarter. And that sounds crazy coming from me, because I don't even know if that's an option, honestly.  This guy clicks buttons. Maybe I got to click some buttons. When I'm in the corner like that, I'm not clicking buttons. That's... Tripped me up. Gliding? That was... I don't know if that was optimal. Come on, Dragon Ball! What, again? Again? Dragon Ball, what is the problem, dude? Like, seriously? Geez, 3 in a row? All right, attempt number 4. Not even a joke. Let's... No, no, no, that's the wrong team. If you're gonna destroy the game, at least let me pick the right team. I think we tricked the game. We're in, boys. All right, we are back. We actually made it into another game with another Super Saiyan Rose, without the game crashing. So, I've already... I've already won, in a sense. I've won, dude. Now it's just a matter of proving it to the world, D.P. Okay, I blocked that. Oh, I tried. I was gonna get fancy. No, it's me low. That's a lot of damage. Ooh, he drops it, though. I tried a 2M. I tried a slide. Okay, so we should probably get Gohan out of here really soon. Or at least into a position where he can... Oh, dude. Go with the 2M. I mean, 5M. No, if you're playing Gohan, try not to poke with the 5L. Because a lot of my characters have pretty long, reaching 5Ls. Not Gohan. Not when I play him. Ooh, decent lag there. He just flew away. He was like, I'm out of here, dude. Right across me up. Backdash. Too small. I'll take that. And we're just gonna go all the way. Back it up. Let's go. Alright, well, I'm gonna spark. Why not? Why not get Zamasu out and try to... Is he gonna air level 3? Nah. Dammit. That was my one big plan, was I was gonna get him to block that. We can just tech out. No, we can't. A lot of Zamasus recently have been learning that. I'm not a fan. I liked it better when that was a rare thing. I tried jumping. I tried jumping, it got caught by a full 2M for that. That's a lot of damage. I worked very hard against...  I shouldn't have switched. I should have just kept the pressure. I didn't know I was gonna be on that side, though. Oh, come on, he dropped out. Oh, my God. Double Sunday, baby. I hope you have a good weekend. Yeah, I've been blocking the entire time. So, I wanted to see if he would... Wow, I didn't even see him. Yo, that was crazy. Actually, Zamasu's assist was too big. I did not even see Goku Black. My eyes were too slow for that. Alright, Bardock, you've put in a pretty decent amount of work. Let's go. Bardock. Bardock is the coolest character in the game. Take this with you. Saiyan Spirit for you. Alright, Bardock, let's get this win. Let's stagger it out and just see what we can do. Let's play Grounded Neutral. Okay, I staggered too much. I should go with the full block stream at least once in a little while. Did I deserve to block that? Probably to... Or not get caught by that, I mean. Level 3, that should kill it. Wrap it up, Bardock. I think we gotta go one more. Just because it's kind of rude to win and leave. Especially like that, we got super lucky. Let's give them one more match. Win or lose, we gotta go though. I'm not even joking at the game crash four times. Alright, we actually did make it. Alright, one more match. Too much. Happy Double Sunday. Oh man. How many times can you get Double Sunday? I probably could have done so much more too. Happy Double Sunday, baby. Happy Double Sunday, baby. I messed it up. Reset! You can count it as a reset. I messed up though. I should have just went down and did it again. Ah, nice. Ooh, nice slide. 5 frames, 6 frames. What's happening to the connection? 7 frames. 3 bars is gonna call Goku Black out here. I don't mind. He had a little bit of blue health. Lot of damage though. Am I dead? Oh no, I'm not dead. Give me cell. I tried it. I tried it. I tried it. I got a little too big. I got a little too big for my bridges. I've rated up on him. Super Dash. Okay, nice. Connection is losing. I think it might actually just be the game. Ah, that was never gonna work. Got me. Okay. What's the combo? Decent combo. Level 3. He escapes with some blue health. We are just right back where we started. Oh, the light god. Really? I should have gone out into Goku. Oh, the Bardock jab. Give it to him. Oh my goodness. We are getting so lucky this set. It's actually crazy. Bardock is so privileged. That Bardock's light is so good. Well, I'm gonna go ahead and call it there. Hopefully you guys enjoyed it. If you did, make sure to leave me a like down below. And hey, let me know if that Dragon Ball Fighter is crashing thing happens to you down below as well. Also, while you're down there, make sure you leave a like and subscribe to the channel. And, of course, we have some more videos. So, click on those if any of them catch your eye as well. I have been Datsudoya. Thank you for watching this video. And I will see you in the next one.


Johnny Dollar, what time is it anyway? About 1 a.m. A friend of yours, Mr. Ralston, mentioned your name to me yesterday. What, Ralston? He said you were here in New York for the weekend and mentioned your hotel. Look, Miss Carson isn't it? Yes, Carol Carson. Yeah, it's nice talking to you and all that, but it is rather late. Well, I realize- Carolina's insurance investigator. This is incurred during my investigation of the deadly doubt matter. The apartment I'm at read on E-67. Carol Carson was waiting for me at the door. She looked sort of dazed as she pointed to a body on the floor. Yes. This is his apartment.  Well, he's dead, all right. That's not what I meant. I meant I thought I was the one who killed him. I'm not sure. Oh? I guess I'm not making much sense. You're sort of funny. Lightheaded. Why don't you start at the beginning? All right. Came to see her tonight about 11 o'clock, I guess. He was a friend of yours? No. He sent for me. I had to come. Why are you telling me why? He insisted that I have a drink with him. Then I started to feel funny. How so? Busy. I had to get some air. You think there was something in the drink? There must have been. He didn't want me to leave. But I had to. What time was that? I think a little before, maybe. Go on. I wandered around the streets. I was in kind of a day. How long were you wandering around? It seemed like a long time. Then why? I came back here to the apartment. I had a terrible headache. I remember walking in the door and... well, that's all. That's all? What do you mean that's all? That's all I remember. I must have passed out. When I came to, I was lying on the floor. That gun wasn't in my hand. In front of me was what I called you. That's all you can tell me. I'm afraid so. Isn't much, is it? It sure isn't. Mr. Dollar, I can't believe I killed him. I couldn't have... Now look, Carolyn, you see you left this apartment a little before 1130. The police medical examiner will be able to tell the approximate time of death. If you weren't here at that time... That's just it, Mr. Dollar. I don't know how long I was on the streets. It seemed like a long time, but... Well, my head was spinning and everything was pretty hazy. You've got to remember where you went. Try to think. Coffee? You stopped somewhere for a cup of coffee? I think so. Where? Remember a neon sign on... on Third Avenue? No, you've got to do better than that. That's all I remember. Did you talk to anyone while you were walking around? I don't... I think a man. He was following me for quite a while. He told me his name. Yes, it was Tom. What do you look like? Curly hair. I remember that. Dark eyes. Oh, look. That description fits thousands of guys in New York. I know, Mr. Dollar. The whole story, I... doesn't sound very convincing, does it? I called Detective Lieutenant Mike Tobich of Homicide and he was there 10 minutes later. He was still questioning her when I left. I had him two $1 drinks for me while I thought about the whole deal. Of all the guys in New York, why did she have to pick on me? But yeah, I'd do what I could to help her. Because that story of hers, it sounded so phony. It just might be true. Johnny Dollar in a moment. Holy Johnny Dollar and the deadly doubt matters. $2.20, a telephone call to Pat McCracken at Universal Adjustment Bureau. Yeah, Everett Reed had been insured by one of Universal's member companies, so I got myself officially assigned to the case. Then I went to work checking out Carol Carson's story, what there was of it, and it wasn't much. All she'd remembered was wandering around the streets, getting a cup of coffee somewhere on 3rd Avenue and being followed by a guy named Tom. I started checking every joint on 3rd Avenue from 60th to 70th Streets. An hour and a half later, I hit pay dirt at Eddie's bar and grill. Yeah, yeah, I think I remember all right. Carson. Carol Carson. Her name don't be nothing, but from the description you give me, yeah. Sure, I remember now. I remember thinking she looked kind of funny when she walked in, like she was in days or something. All right, all right. Now, what time was it when she came in here? I don't know, two, three hours ago. That's not good enough. Was it 11? 11.30? Midnight? Well, what? Well, maybe around midnight, maybe. Was she on? Yeah. You sure about that? Well, of course I can remember. I kind of remember somebody in the door when I came in, but I didn't know if there was somebody with her or not. All right, what happened then? So she asked for a cup of coffee, so our poor didn't set him down in front of her, so she left. She what? Yeah, he got up and left. Still acting sort of funny. Let's see. How much of a time can you account for that? Huh? I mean, how long was she here in your place? Eh, no more than about one minute, Matt. Oh, great. The dollar-eighty campfair to police headquarters and Lieutenant Mike Tobitsch and homicide. Look, Johnny, you're not trying to tell me I should buy an alibi like Carol Carson's, are you? So it is pretty vague. Mike, vague enough to be true. At least she was telling the truth about going into that joint on 3rd Avenue for a cup of coffee. So she's covered for one minute out of two hours. Two hours? She said she went to Reed's apartment about eleven o'clock. Right. The medical examiner says time of Reed's death was between eleven thirty and twelve thirty. She called you at one o'clock, but if she can prove she was out of that apartment for that hour. She's only proved she was out of it for a minute, plus the time it took to get to 3rd Avenue and back. Say, five minutes each way.  But if we could find this guy named Tom, she says she was following her around. Maybe he could prove she was out of the apartment during the time of the murder. Oh, sure. That was a real helpful description she gave us. Curly hair and dark eyes. Look, Johnny, so you're taking a liking to her. That's too bad. But don't let it make her fool out of you. Mike, did Carol tell you why she went to Reed's apartment? No, no, she wouldn't talk about it. She also wouldn't explain a lump she has on the side of her head. A lump she has? Yeah, we think she got it fighting with Reed. What do you know about him? Bad boy. A big gambler. And the way we heard, he'd been winning pretty big lately. Maybe somebody he won from couldn't pay off. Except with a bullet. Yeah, maybe anything, Johnny. Prove it and I'll listen. Who did Reed run around with, you know? Usual crowd, Johnny. Jack Vistle at Outfit. Vistle, huh? Now, I've Reed won a lot of money from him. Like I say, Johnny, anything you can prove. Yeah, yeah. Come in. Tomatovic. That's right. I'm Larry Bowman. I want to know what's going on with Carol Carson. Oh, what's it to you, Mr. Bowman? She might hear us saying you've been a locked up. That's right. Suspicion of murder. Oh, that's ridiculous. She didn't kill anybody and you know it. Look, Mr. Bowman, if I knew it, she wouldn't be locked up, would she? Now maybe you can tell us why she went to this Everett Reed's apartment last night. I don't know why she went and I don't propose to ask her either. I trust the lieutenant. And if she went to see him, she had good reason.  You must have realized that just talking to her. The main thing that I realize is that my personal opinion is beside the point, Bowman. Look, the thing we need to know is if Carol was away from Reed's apartment almost an hour and a half like she seems to think she was walking around the streets. Didn't you say that sooner? I can prove she was. Oh, I was with her. Oh, honey, she didn't mention it. She was probably confused. You're sure you're not the one who was confused?  Where were you? On the street. What street? I don't remember. 68th Street, I think. That's not the street Carol says she was on. As I say, she was probably confused. Where'd she go? To a bar. Where'd you have to drink? Well, Carol too. Sure, why not? Oh, you're fighting a losing battle, Bowman. Carol says she had a cup of coffee on 3rd Avenue and that a guy named Tom was following her. I'll listen. You told us enough, Bowman. I can't blame you too much for trying, I guess, but it won't work. You weren't with Carol and you know it. I know she didn't kill her. You mean you hoped she didn't when it comes to knowing. You know every bit of evidence we got says she did. And we've got nothing that says she didn't. And the deadly doubt. Lieutenant Tobish, you can talk about evidence until he's blue in the face, Donald. Carol's not a killer. You prove that and Tobish will be the first to listen. But cooking up phony alibis for Carol is not going to help any.  But I can't just stand by and do nothing? Don't you have any other leads you can follow up? One, maybe. Well, what is it? Reed was at Gambler. Could be somebody was losing Big Joe. Oh, Carol's my fiance. I know she doesn't have that kind of money. Anyway, she doesn't gamble. I wasn't thinking about Carol. Who's that? Jack Vistle, for instance. We've found out Reed's been seen with Vistle several times lately. Well, you got a question about it? I may as well. After all, at this point we got nothing to lose.  Could be a real good reason, Vistle. Maybe you lost money to him, Gambler.  So maybe you lost more nights than you won. So maybe you owe Reed some money. Oh, that could be the motive.  Yeah, I owed Reed money. I owed him all the two bits. Now is that enough to bump him off? I started making the rounds along 3rd Avenue again. But I got nowhere. Nobody remembered seeing her and nobody remembered the guy named Tom. The one she told me had been following her. Two hours later I gave up. I was beat. I went back in my room and flopped on the bed. What? My name's Tom. Sure it does.  That's right. I'm her alibi. So I bust my neck trying to find you and it ends up with you finding me. Well, I've written the papers that look bad for Carol unless they found the guy who was with her. You didn't show up any too soon, believe me, brother. How long were you with her? Oh, I figure at least an hour. I kept following her and once in a while she'd stop and talk, but she seemed kind of dazed. Apparently it really puts something in a drink. Anyway, I finally gave up. I figured if it was that tough to get acquainted, what's the use of it? But you're willing to swear you were with her for an hour. Why, at least. I'm around 11.30 to after 12.30. That clears her. Brady can't figure the headquarters. Tom repeated the statement and Carol identified Tom as the man who'd been following her. So it looked like it was all over. I... I guess I'll never be able to thank you enough, Johnny. Well, if it hadn't been for you... Ah, well, let's just say I'm a stubborn type, Carol. Once I believed your story, I had to follow through on it. Oh, it's hard to realize I'm free. It's been like a bad dream. I'll bet Larry Bowman's glad it's over, too. Have you called him yet? No, I'll call him from my apartment. Johnny, all I can say is thanks again. I took a cab to her apartment. I started back into the building and then, out of the corner of my eye, I spotted another cab pulling away from the curb following Carol's. And it was Tom. I figured I'd better join that procession. I tagged along to Carol's apartment. Inside I could hear voices. The door was unlocked. Carol was in the process of handing over some money. Looks like I got here just in time to witness the payoff. So you bought yourself an alibi, Carol? No. I'll look dollar. You better stay out of it. Carol, I gotta hand it to you. You really had me fooled. Well, you don't understand, Johnny.  Cut yourself in on the pie. I'm willing to have a partner. What are you talking about? The last night when I followed Carol back to Reed's apartment, just as I was leaving, I spotted somebody coming down the fire escape. I followed him, found who he was, and where he lived. Then when the story came out in the papers, I realized I knew who the killer was. I figured I'd make some go out of it. But not as long as Carol was in jail. Johnny, just now when he wanted money to keep him from telling the police, I... Well, I didn't know what to do. I thought if I gave him what I had, it would keep him satisfied until I could figure out... Larry? Well, it was too late. Oh! He opened door. It struck Larry's arm, deflected his shot. Before he could shoot again, I nailed him. Johnny, are you all right? Yeah. Larry Bowman's the killer. I guess I was afraid of that right from the start. You see, Larry had been gambling with Reed and losing to him. I tried to make him stop, but he wouldn't. Finally, he lost more than he could pay. So you went to Reed's apartment to try and squirt, huh? Reed told me maybe something could be worked out. When he put something in my drink, I realized what he meant. That's why I got out. And Larry entered the apartment when you were away, killed Reed, slugged you when you came back, and planted a gun on you? I guess so. I wasn't sure until Tom told me he'd seen Larry climb down that fire escape. At first, I just couldn't believe that Larry would... Do you figure a thing like that, Johnny? How do you figure it? I didn't try to answer that one, because I didn't have an answer. I guess it just isn't any. I'd have made $13.40 since the nettles and transportation back to Hartford. Expense account total of $41 even.  Burst with Everett Reed and then trying to frame Carol. I guess that's the trouble of gambling. You push your luck too far. And sooner or later, you're bound to lose. You're as truly Johnny Dollars. We'll return in just a moment. To tell you about next week's story. Next week, a doting Dowager who sets me out on the wildest case I ever handled. Join us, won't you? You're as truly Johnny Dollars. KRMG is our newest affiliate station and serves nearly a million families in the Southwest. You're as truly Johnny Dollars starring Bob Bailey is produced and directed by Jack Johnstone. Today's story was written by Robert Stanley. Heard in the cast were Virginia Greg, Julius Matthews, Paul Duboff, James McAllion, Alan Reed and Frank Gerstle. Join us next week for another exciting story of yours truly Johnny Dollars. This is Dan Coverley speaking.


Tucker was September 5, 2000, and it's important though to note that this day was a culmination of more than 40 years of hard work and dedication on the part of so many people in this city, starting with the decision by the school board to open a new elementary school in the west end of the city. It was a monumental decision given that it was the first new school to be built in Alexandria in more than 30 years, and so all eyes were going to be on this school. And long before I ever became involved, there was a multidisciplinary planning committee of citizens, parents, ACPS officials and leaders that worked diligently to design a school that was going to be a state-of-the-art building worthy of the students, the parents and the community that it was going to serve. I assumed the position of principal, which was an incredible honor for me. I was named in February of 1999, and I assumed that position on July 1 of 1999, 1999, so I spent a lot of time looking at materials we would need, looking at the students we were serving, looking at their achievement records, their needs, the parents, the community, all of those things, but nothing more important than looking at the staff that I was blessed to be able to hire. And so I knew these teachers were, and staff members were the ones that were going to really make the school work. And I will never forget the absolute joy that I felt when my office staff and I were able to come in and set up shop in the school in July of 2000. Two weeks later, the entire staff joined us. We had a week of team building and professional development and touring the school and getting ready. After the first meeting with faculty, before the first meeting we toured the school, and it was nothing but ooze and oz, and I can't believe this place is so beautiful and so wonderful. Then we met in the multi-purpose room, and my first item on the agenda were my opening remarks, and at this time we had all the teachers and the staff. Every cafeteria worker, custodians who were going to be a part of the school, and the topic of my remarks was heroes all around us. And that's when I told the staff the story of Samuel W. Tucker and his life and the challenges he faced and the challenges he overcame and the work he did, his perseverance to make sure that all children had opportunities to get a quality education. You could've heard a pen drop because nobody in that room had ever heard of Samuel W. Tucker before or knew what he stood for. And so they immediately, instinctively, embraced their collective responsibility to carry on Mr. Tucker's legacy through the hard work that we were going to do with the students who were going to be fortunate to attend this school, and we were committed to the fact that Samuel W. Tucker Elementary had to be the kind of school that Mr. Tucker would have envisioned and would have worked so hard to make happen. So that was the first interaction with Tucker and tying his legacy to this school. It was exhilarating, it was exciting, it was a little scary, and it was a lot of fun. We opened the school with about 540 students enrolled, most of whom had been in the prior years of their education bust across the city to attend Jefferson Houston. So they were so excited to have a school in their neighborhood that they could call their neighborhood school. But there was a steady stream of new enrollees by Thanksgiving. I think we were at 575 students. It was built for 600, and we were almost at capacity by Thanksgiving. But what impressed us all the most was the incredible ethnic, socioeconomic, racial, spiritual diversity of the student population. It was amazing, and as I have said many times in my career, our diversity was our greatest strength and also our greatest challenge if we were going to meet the needs of all the students we served. But a big poster, one of the first things we hung in the office was a big poster of children of all skin tones and ethnicities with the words, everyone belongs here. Everybody belongs here. And that's what the teachers and the staff set out to make a school where everybody was included and everybody belonged and everybody would achieve. So that sense of belonging and new beginnings permeated the atmosphere and the spirit of our teachers with that can-do attitude that we were going to make this a place where success was the only option for our students. So that's what I remember from opening day. The first time I ever even heard the name, Samuel Fabia Tucker, was on November 17, 1999 when the school board voted to name the school after him. And somebody handed me a copy of the application, the nomination that was submitted by the inner city civic association that the school be named for Mr. Tucker. And as soon as I read just that application, I knew that our school was named for a person that could be a real hero to our students and a legacy that we could try to continue on. So that was the first time I had ever heard his name. On November 18, I wrote a letter to the members of the inner city civic association introducing myself as the first principal of Samuel W. Tucker Elementary School and thanking them for giving my students such a name, such a name of a wonderful individual, a hero nationally and a hometown hero for Alexandria. I also made the commitment in that letter, and I have a copy of that letter, that every student who attended that school, I promised that they would all know about the life and the legacy of Samuel W. Tucker and the powerful examples of courage and perseverance and integrity and dedication that this man brings to the school. Honored knowing for a man day, and he would tell me more about Samuel W. Tucker, African American School Board member and chair in Virginia. And he was just very similar to Tucker in his integrity, in his perseverance, and in building coalitions with other members of the school board and finally being successful in racially integrating the schools in Alexandria. And it's no coincidence that Samuel W. Tucker Elementary School is located on Ferdinand Day Drive, so that he's another personal hero of mine. So you can imagine my surprise after never hearing about Samuel W. Tucker in school anywhere, that I opened my Washington Post magazine on Sunday, I think it was August, June 11th, excuse me, where there was a major article written by a gentleman named S.J. Ackerman called The Trials of S.W. Tucker. And it was a feature article on Samuel W. Tucker that taught me even more than I had ever known about the man and enriched my education about him. But what struck a chord with me in reading this article is my own personal connection because the library's sit-in was in August of 1939. My parents were married in August of 1939 and moved to Alexandria, Virginia and lived in the presidential garden's apartments, which are now, I think, presidential greens located in Chirolago neighborhood. So they were here at the same time this was happening in our hometown. I never heard anything from them about the Queen Street sit-in. I never heard anything about Mr. Tucker. I went to school from first grade to 12th grade in the Alexandria City of Public Schools. I didn't go to kindergarten because they didn't have kindergarten back then. But first through 12th grade and never was there a lesson. Never was I taught anything about this person who was such a major force in the city of Alexandria in the Commonwealth of Virginia. It just wasn't taught. And so I'm happy to report that Mr. Tucker's life is now a part of the ACPS elementary social studies curriculum. The librarian here even wrote a book about Samuel W. Tucker for children. And so he is now very much remembered. Of course, the dedication ceremony was planned. There was a dedication planning committee because everything gets to the planning committee. But again, this was community members and parents and school officials. And Fernande was a member of that planning, a dedication planning committee. And so was Lee Boy Steel, who I think at that time, I don't know, it would be the president of the inner city civic association. But every detail was covered. And of course, you had remarks by the mayor who was Kerry Donnelly at the time and by the chairman of the school board, Steve Camili and by Superintendent Berg. Most impressive about that ceremony for me were the children's performances. Because one of our students read a biography that he had researched of Samuel W. Tucker. Several students read short poems and essays that they had written about why Mr. Tucker was a hero to them. Songs like Lift Every Voice and Sing were performed, as well as I Am a Rainbow. We're all one under the sun. I really believe that Mr. Tucker would have been very pleased with this ceremony. At the very end of the ceremony, we unveiled the portrait of Samuel Tucker, which I think now hangs in the lobby. I believe that young people need real heroes in their lives. And I think too often in these days, young people confuse entertainers and celebrities and sports figures as heroes. Heroes are people that leave a legacy and are role models to emulate for their work to make the world a better place. I also believe that the students were given a true gift. When Samuel W. Tucker became the namesake of the school. Samuel W. Tucker was a man who endured countless acts of prejudice and injustice, but never gave in or gave up to it. He was, he never accepted the status quo. He instead used education and nonviolence to find peaceful ways to bring change to our world. He devoted his entire life, adult life, to ensuring equal rights for all people. And most importantly, he drew that first line in the sand in the right of individuals to have access to good books found in public libraries that were open to all citizens. So of course my students, our students, the school students had to know about Samuel W. Tucker. So teachers within the first three days of school were all known that the story of Tucker should be taught an age-appropriate rate to their students. And all over popped up students' self-portraits of Samuel W. Tucker that they did in art class or poems about Samuel W. Tucker. The whole school was displayed with information about Samuel W. Tucker from kindergarten to fifth grade. Every year, the first week of school, one of the first lessons was to remind or to teach new students, because we had quite a mobility rate about the man for whom their school was named and how he relates. And our mantra was every student in the school has got to learn to read, because Mr. Tucker gave you the access to those books. So I can't think of a more important lesson to teach our students.


I have a little Thanksgiving card to share with you today with a whole bunch of really fun things on the table that I'll talk about how to color in addition to that fun turkey in the background. The stamp set is from Sunny Studios Stamps and it's got turkeys as well as cornucopia and pies and all kinds of yummy things to eat. And I've stamped them all, but in a way that wasn't as difficult as it looks. The cornucopia, I just had to mask out the bottom portion of it so I could stamp the fruits and vegetables kind of randomly in there. And I'm going to add enough color to it that it doesn't really matter that they're not masked out behind each other. They're just kind of fit into shapes like a puzzle. The cornucopia, I forgot to leave highlights on it. The brown that I chose just came out darker than expected. So I went back into it with a lighter color and just pushed out some highlights. And now that I'm adding a real dark shadow, you get the real contrast between the really darks and the really lights. My whole idea with this one was to make this really rich, dark kind of scene card. And I wanted to add enough dark colors inside the cornucopia and then really strong shadows on all these objects because they're stamped so loosely in there.  So look how dark the pear shadow is. It's as dark as what's going on inside of the cornucopia. I'm going to do the same thing with each one of these. Just add super, super dark shadows behind them so that you don't end up feeling like these things are floating in the air, which is where they were stamped. Like they were floating in the air, but adding really dark colors there. And even though it feels like a really dark area right now, as soon as I add the rest of the background, this whole foreground is going to feel lighter by comparison. That's just how color works. It's all in relation to what's next to it. To add the dark shadows onto the pumpkin, I'm actually using a blue color. It looks kind of greenish there, but it's a blue. And that's the opposite color on the color wheel. So it gives you a really nice dark color that you might not be able to get from a dark orange or a dark brown color on the pumpkin. Turkey is going to be a nice, rich, dark color, too, because I like my turkey's well done when it's ready to eat. So I'm going to add plenty of color there. And, you know, a little bit of texture made with the dark shadow and then blend over top of it with a mid-tone color and then get rid of that highlight just barely with the lightest color again to blend it in. But leaving some of that texture from the darkest color underneath. And then the plate is going to indicate some real strong light because I'm picturing that light being over the turkey's head, the live turkey, shall we say? And that means there's going to be a shadow off to the left in front of it. And then that plate can just be sort of a silvery gray. The pie is really a fun thing to color so that each of those lattices is going to need to recede or the lattice part, the crisscross part, is going to be higher up and then underneath recedes down. So I'm going to put shadows in the top kind of V shape and then start throwing some darker colors underneath each one of those, the outside edge, the little crimping, and then just fill in each one of the squares in between and then all of a sudden the lattices look like they're sitting on top. I did decide to knock back a little bit so that there was just a little highlight on the lattices rather than a lot because again this was going to be a very dark scene. I knew I was going to put a lot of color in that background so I needed all this to be rich or else I was going to have to go back into it and re-layer once I got that dark background on the wall behind it. And now I'm going to put a table in here and I did forget something while I was putting the table in because I wanted a table runner. I needed to have some kind of decoration. Couldn't just be a flat old brown table but since I had gone with a light enough brown to start with, that left me able to push some orange into it. So as long as you're going with a dark color into it then you can just kind of go right over top of that. The outside area of the table itself is going to get darker so the orange is going to start to look lighter by comparison as I add the dark color. So first is going to be a line of shadow right underneath of where that table runner is and then create some texture on the table with that dark brown and you know after I get all that that line work done then I'll dark in all of that.  Don't scrub over it too much so you don't lose all the lines but it gives a really nice wood texture that ends up having enough detail in it to look woody but not to be so detailed that it catches your eye. It still kind of disappears and look how bright that orange suddenly looks. It's just kind of interesting to see how colors in comparison to each other really change a lot. So now watch how the colors change the scene doesn't look so dark once I add this dark background. I'm starting with a really dark gray at the bottom here and I'm going to work my way up because I'm picturing I was almost going to draw a light bulb up there above the turkey's head or a candelabra or something and I decided that would be too complex so I just decided I would start working up my way up the card with dark colors at the bottom and then that arc would get lighter and lighter so I just kept jumping two colors lighter in the gray colors as I worked my way up and that just kind of made them get lighter and lighter. Using a warm gray gave it a warmer feel. You could use cooler grays but it felt like that would be too clinical of an atmosphere like he was in a I don't know turkey processing plant or something silvery so I wanted it to still feel like he was in a home like checking out his cousin who was now on the table and maybe being a little surprised by what he saw that his his cousin was on a plate now instead of I don't know what he might have thought was happening to his cousin when his cousin got taken into the house. Maybe he didn't know. I just wasn't sure. The color the gray color just gets lighter and lighter up there so it feels like there's some kind of light source. Now that meant that I was going to darken other things so I started adding dark on the left side on the table darkening that table runner and just I wanted to start pushing the light toward the turkey the live turkey so that everything else in this background would start to disappear and and just put all the attention right right where the light is shining on that turkey. So I started adding shadows underneath the plates and those sorts of things to make cast shadows. I needed to add something to the table runner so it felt like there was a reason for it there so I just did a little bit of doodling around the edge to give it a lacy border and did some crisscrossing with it with just doing some dots so that it would look like it's quilted and make it a little bit more handmade type of thing. You could do all kinds of different patterns on a table runner like this and I'm doing the same pattern over top of the dark areas as I am over the light but that started feeling like it was taking too much attention. I didn't want the table runner this skirt is not about the table runner so I pushed it another shade darker. I just made it you know more intense but a darker color and that came from time for the turkey and I was trying to figure out what it was going to do for him for the lighting. Originally I was thinking about it being really dark and just barely him coming out of the darkness like he just snuck into the house and was peeking in to see where his cousin was not knowing what he was about to see and I just kept adding color to it knowing that I can keep adding more I can keep darkening it and making him disappear more and more and more but trying to figure out where it makes the most sense for the lighting to be. I wanted enough on his tail feathers that you could tell he was definitely a turkey because as I lost detail on other things I was going to need some signals of what he was and I left some of the highlights on either side of his neck and a little bit on his shoulders so that he would end up looking turkey shaped a little bit. His hat was next and had to be cool grays because I had all this warm grays in the background and I wanted his hat to be very dark because it's supposed to be a black hat but I needed it to show up enough so very very gentle with the amount of darks that I added in and just started working my way slowly up there to do my blending without losing the highlights because I needed just a little bit of the pop of the highlight color. I used a multi-liner pen to make a mess of his face and his beak because I wanted his beak to be open like he was in shock and I did that with my white Signo pen and it just took a little bit of the orangey color and blocked out the beak. It gives me a little bit of the hint at the bottom shape of the beak without being too much. I kept trying to fix the eyes but that didn't quite work which is why I added googly's in the long run when I finished the card because googly's make everything better and then I added another layer of darks. Watch what happens here when I add these really dark colors. The shoulders and the neck totally pop out of this whereas before they were getting kind of mushy this really helped to define them. So there's my crazy card with its beautiful font.  Thanks so much for joining me today I will see you again very soon. All the links are in the doobly-doo if you need any of these stamp sets or anything and I'll see you later. Take care.


We may have to readjust how we're doing this. So this is improving and extending retrospective outcomes. So this is a beginner, is billed as a beginner session. So I'm going to be going over some things that many of you may already know about retrospectives. So do keep that in mind. I mean, that's what I'm going to do. How many here have only learned about retrospectives before or only learned about them through scrum training? How many of you have done additional looking at retrospectives on your own besides that? OK, that will help me a little bit. I might be able to move through some of this pretty quickly. That one? This is going to be fun. You're just going to be there doing that. Setting me up for the next thing. My name's Diana Larson. And along with Esther Derby, I wrote the first book about using retrospectives for agile. There actually was a book before us by a guy named Norm Kearth called Project Retrospectives, a handbook 14 reviews or project reviews. His book came out, it was written in the late 90s when people were still on four and five year projects with multi-hundreds of people or whatever. And so it was really intended as a way at the end of those projects to capture learning. So Esther and I noticed that there was some interest in retrospectives happening more frequently. And so in his retrospectives, the way he describes the retrospectives in his book, they're three days long. So we sort of knew that wasn't going to work in a two week sprint. So we said, how do these things need to be rejiggered so that it is useful on a more frequent cadence? So that's why we wrote the agile retrospectives book. For a long time, it was the only book. It's not anymore. There are a couple of two or three other books and some other resources that I'm going to point you to when we get to the end. Pat Kua has written a book that's actually not so much about the designing like this session is going to be or that our book is about. It's not so much about designing retrospectives or that, but more about the role of the facilitator. So if you're interested in improving.