it was a good Friday they called it so today let us get together and make this a good Friday excuse me thank you everyone we're coming back to join me today as we finish up our sony pvm 14 m2m du restoration we spent a lot of time yesterday on a live stream and just to catch you up briefly kind of on what we've done so far we have taken apart the CRT which you can see right here and in yesterday's stream we serviced the neckboard and then the power supply on the other side and we tested them both and they're working good they've been cleaned recapped and finally we pulled the main a board down here along with our input board and then we removed all the capacitors on the a board which was a total of 28 capacitors and they are right here in this dish all our capacitors so those capacitors have been removed the boards cleaned up and we are ready to install the new capacitors and here's the list right here of all our new capacitors that will be going in to our monitor and again as this one has been set a little bit customized compared to the normal printout once I get done with this kit and get it tested and quality quality controlled I'll update this list to say MDU for the patreon members over on discord so that's what we're going to be doing we're just going to get into this finishing steps in this restoration and we'll get our main board here all figured out and recapped I did kind of tease that Zez was going to be here my buddy Lewis from the cathode ray podcast however he he had something come up so he won't be able to join us today so it'll just be us breezing through this restoration and just to give you a couple notes again if you're joining in we were in working on this board and you can still see there's a lot of capacitors on here okay so we didn't we don't remove them all we have specifically removed the capacitors that control geometry in on our set here so if we look in closer that's this area there's four capacitors right here there's another five or six here some over in this area and then there's some sporadically scattered over in this zone we have about half of them removed for deflection same thing in this area over around this chip there was probably five or six in this whole zone right here that have been replaced and then finally all the ones back in this area we have removed all those and one of the things we did yesterday once we had our capacitors removed was we changed out those capacitors and then we tested them using a tester to test and see whether the capacitors were still good that we had removed and if you remember from our neck board we actually found one that was failed it was swollen and bulging and it was reading really high on our settings or I'm sorry on our ohms meter so what we'll do is we're gonna take a second and we're gonna get a reading of a capacitor here that's one of the more important ones this is the one that is from the red green and blue repair the line repair it's one of those and this is the other one and the interesting thing about these capacitors is Sony was actually concerned about these two and they're specifically 105 degrees Fahrenheit rated which is not like the majority of the caps are removed most of them are 85 degree rated but they knew that these were troublesome I think this was an important circuit to begin with so what we'll do is we'll start by switching over here and we're gonna test these capacitors and see if we can't get see if we can't get that reading on there and I want to say thanks to some people who've just shown up Belmont James Boone Alf and D and thank you all for showing up today good morning and I just need to do one thing real quick on my settings before we continue on I'm having a little bit of issues with my overhead camera and so I'm gonna need to scale that down to unfortunately 30 frames per second so hopefully that will remove the stuttering because I'm seeing some stuttering on my end and I don't want that to be I'd rather deal with lower frame rate so we're gonna test the capacitor with our little tester we showed off cheap tester we just plug it in here and we're gonna hit the button and let's see what the reading is this is a 4.7 micro farad 160 volt capacitor and we're all the way up to 13 ohms hey Tony good to see this morning thank you for coming but we're all the way up to 13 ohms on this capacitor and once you get over a like on a 4.7 micro farad capacitor once you get over about I want to say 7 ohms on this capacitor it's gonna be a bad cap or start to fail so this one is already starting to fail it didn't look like it was failing hey hey good to see you guys here so we've got this one here it's a 160 volt 4.7 micro farad capacitor hey Travis good to see you man JT suitor so anyway that one's bad let's test the other one this is only a one micro farad capacitor and it is a 160 volt also capacitor let's see what it reads all right so we're we're at 3.3 ohms on this one so it's still you know this would still have some life left on it but this one's definitely one that I would change out but look at it has no visible signs of failing it's just got a high high ohms reading all right so that's just an idea that doing this kind of work will prevent you some trouble down the road so let's get the soldering iron heated up right now and we're gonna get in here and get the capacitor kit ready to install and this is 28 total capacitors I've got them all separated in here in my little fishing tackle box which are super handy for keeping cap kits separated whichever way you want to do it and I really like these boxes okay so let me shut down all right so as I said we've got our capacitor kit here all pulled out and I had to order this custom from Mauser and you can do so for many of your parts suppliers that you like but what we're gonna do is we're gonna get in here and follow this guide and we're just gonna start installing the capacitors back in to our board see if we can get a little bit more overhead light in there for you and I'll zoom in at certain points so you can take a look at just this the workmanship that we're gonna be doing craftsmanship lovely Friday here in Virginia it is rainy and cooled a little bit the temperature is going down a little bit for this day and not cold or anything but it is in the 50s in the Fahrenheit's which is unfortunate because last couple days have been in the 80 degrees really warm and now we're looking at a holiday weekend where it's gonna be wet rainy and a little cooler so we're again replacing the capacitors up in this area so let's see what we're gonna start with let's start with our 200s so that's some caps right up here listed as 200 but that over to the side our songering iron is ready to go we'll get in here and install our first capacitor 207's over here by this red connection point so it's pretty easy to get to we'll go ahead and install the capacitor in there and that is a 25 volt 100 micro farad capacitor and just like the other boards you want to make sure that the capacitors inserted in the correct direction and I'm not going to solder these one at a time but I will do it in sections or groups so that's our 207 let's get 204 in here too which is a 50 volt 10 and that's a lovely red capacitor we'll sit this in here for 204 50 volt 10 bend those legs up get that ready to go we'll get another 50 volt 10 to go into 208 right next to that there's another 50 volt 10 I think that would be good place to start those three capacitors let's get those three done flip this over and I'll try to maybe get you a little bit better view if it's helpful see our our legs here for our components I'm going to tack one leg into place and then I'll tidy it up afterwards and this is a time when I would really like to have that tool that crimps the legs of components that'll be very nice spam spam phone call excuse me so I put my phone on mute when you own a business and you have a business phone number you would not believe how many spam calls you get because in the United States it's a it's illegal to call private numbers and try to advertise to them if they don't want to be if they're you know it's like an invasion of privacy but that doesn't it doesn't apply if you're a business entity so you can get as many junk mail calls and voicemail calls as you could imagine and this year I probably get every weekday I probably get seven or eight new junk calls and they're all just garbage they leave me voicemails too and I can't block the numbers I block the number they come back with a different number it's just a little frustrating anyway we're gonna about to tidy these legs up someone was asking the chat if they and I think this is what they're saying if not I apologize I think they're asking which one's superior the L series or the M series and from a technical perspective if there's not really one that's more superior to the other except for once you get into the higher L's which are the multi-format ones that they didn't work on or didn't make for the M series other than that like the L20L2 and the 20M2 I'd still consider personally I'd consider either one of those to be fine I do think that the M series is a lot more serviceable so if you have an issue there's a lot more documentation on how to fix it with that CRT as opposed to the L series which is what we're working on right now as an M series so I particularly wouldn't say I would only say that it's superior because it has a little bit more serviceability and it also has the extra component slash RGB input which you can add with it the slot option slot on the L series so it's not like it's a big deal but it is built in but I don't know if you guys pay attention to shank on Twitter he's made so many different custom custom cards that are the BKM 129X cards which is the card that goes in the L series PVMs he's made so many replacement custom cards for doing things like having goodness there was a Gameboy Advance one there's a Wii one and all kinds of crazy stuff so there's a lot of fun things you can do with those replacement cards especially the fact that there's an open source hack to them you can really get in there if you're creative and able to do what you want on those things alright let's take a second I'm just reviewing my work to make sure I did everything correctly legs on those a little long but I don't think that's gonna be any kind of an issue it's not like they're hugely long I like the solder joints so I'm gonna roll with it on those three we will mark those off our list grab a pin so we've got 204 done 207 and 208 206 is over here in this area and that's what we're gonna go to next this is probably what we'll do next so you can't really it's hard to go down the list and keep the numbers going because sometimes you'll get into them and they'll be sporadically in areas but if you do it according to blocks and then check off you'll you'll have all of them filled by the end of the list or the end of the job sorry alright let's move on so in this quadrant up here by this heatsink we're gonna have capacitors 522 507 595 and 206 those are our four that we're gonna be changing out next and right there in the center of the screen so I need to get a like start with the inside ones first 595 and 507 that's a 50 volt 220 capacitor which should be right here and then we need to get 507 25 100 right 25 volt 100 get a nice good 25 volt 100 this is a good one here we have 105 degree Rubicon we can sneak in there so we'll get that placed in that happy little hole down there okay I sure you hope everybody's doing wonderful today enjoying the calm soothing sounds of traditional jazz as we replace these capacitors on this lovely set so we've got our bottom capacitors in there the next one's 522 which is a very big capacitor we have this we're gonna upgrade from 16 volts to 25 and then we've got 5 what no I'm sorry 207 206 which is the 25 volt 100 we need another one of those to go above our master right here so we'll start we'll go ahead and insert this one the 206 get the legs pushed up against there now all that's good and I'm gonna get these three set and then I'll come in and I'll install the big one to finish thank you Belmont appreciate it yeah we're gonna get in here and now we're gonna solder these three capacitors that been to place and again these ones are of course directly related to the geometry and these are related to geometry specifically so there's some times where if you have problems on your screen it could be these exact capacitors these four in this block will cause specific issues as I explained earlier what I'm doing now is I'm gonna tack into place these legs and come back clean them up afterwards trim those legs and then reflow the solder so I'm just gonna get in here with the snips snip these legs and I need to come back just remember to get those legs that have no solder on them first then you come back after you do that one and touch up the solder on the leg that was your original anchor C595 there we go and if you missed our discussion yesterday about soldering did mention that I'm using a rosin core solder so that's what all that smoke is coming out is it's basically the evaporating rosin and since it's rosin core it's got you know flux basically in the middle of the core so as it heats the flux comes out hits the board that's what you see it's not actually like lead or anything that's evaporating it's flux fumes from the rosin core on this really nice solder and that's why you see that residue leftover that we'll need to clean up once we're finished so let's flip this over we're ready ready see this one got a little bent so we'll fix it we'll try to straighten that out a little bit but now we can install the big fatty 5 2 take a look at this big fat capacitor install it to and we will just and is that we need to push the negative end up a little bit closer that one trimmed up fixed up and get this tacked into place I think we're doing much better than our pace for yesterday and that is a good thing took a long time yesterday to kind of get rolling through those two boards which is fine but once you get in your groove to get get soldering then you get in a roll and you just it's much nicer actually have more capacitors to change than on those other boards we're pretty much only changing a couple like the neckboard only had two and eight on the power supply and if we look here we've already changed and installed one two three seven so we've already installed seven we're only 25 minutes into the stream so that's really a much better pace it's just gonna do again a quality control check on all the capacitors we've gone through so far we did change out 206 over here with a 25 volt 100 that's correct and then it was 507 with a 25 volt 100 which is right under there 507 correct then we had 522 which is written over here done that's the big fatty boom boom and then the 220 50 volt where is it right down here 595 that's all the way at the bottom of the list but there we go seven down 21 to go folks so hang in there with me or hey if you're like chilling at the office doing yard work I don't know anything enjoy in your life just relax and have a cozy little solder session for your background entertainment and here we go we're gonna move on to could either move on to the inside and go this direction or we can go around this direction to our chip I'll say that it's easier to go around this side so let's just finish up this section and then we may have to climax over here with this zone and back up here so it's like a whole loop around the flyback and then come back up and we'll go around to this side so if we get done with these our next one over here is next to this connection see 596 down there right here so we need to get c596 that's a 25 volt 100 capacitor so insert it and I know it's out on an island almost on its own but why don't we go ahead and stick in these two right here now this is an interesting thing so since there was the problem with these two capacitors that I showed you Sony actually recommends you upgrade these parts and change them out from what you have now this one I have differing opinions whether we need to go with the 2.2 microfarad or 160 but really it doesn't matter so we're gonna go by this guide again this is has updated parts in it so that's what's written out here to the side that's beyond if you go look at the Sony manual that's printed it's gonna show you these standard ones that come on the board but like we need to change this 572 which is one of the bad ones from that 4.7 160 to a 10 uf 250 and then if we look down here it was a 160 uf but it's recommended that we change it to a 2.2 so we're gonna go ahead and do it and just see how that all works out I've done this before and it just can't it's been a while since I've actually done the upgrade parts you can replace them with the parts that are in the board and most the time you'll have a normal good experience because you're replacing it still with new parts and it's following the spec sheets but this one is a little bit of an upgrade kit if I told if I wanted to show you look at the size difference this is a Nishi Khan this is a Nishi Khan and this is I don't know who makes this I can't remember but either way the size difference these two capacitors this one is the one on the right hand side is the new capacitor and this one's the old capacity that we've moved just look at the size difference so we're gonna go with that for C 584 so that's on the outside of our heat sink and the one that goes on the inside of the heat sink is gonna be also a capacitor upgrade as I said 250 volt 10 micro farads so here we've got a nice one and we'll go with it this one's obviously bigger now since we have a larger whoops sliding on me a larger area over here we can just slide that down in there that's nicely it's like that and take advantage of that large space and install a nice big cap blipper over we're gonna tack in three more of these things there we go got my soldering iron at 750 degrees Fahrenheit and that's what I keep it at most jobs just trying to tack this legs in here straighten them all out get them all ready ah thank you Tony appreciate the super chat getting things kicked off today with the super chats Tony Escobar love watching this work incredibly elegant well thank you Tony I appreciate that that's the one thing I really do like about well not one thing that's one of the many things it's that's enjoyable about soldering and doing this kind of work you're not under pressure most the time to you know be in a big rush because this kind of craftsmanship and and work and it really requires a good attention to detail so you know if this is something that you consider to do for a hobby or you do right now for a hobby or even part-time maybe for I don't know make some extra money whatever the case may be don't rush yourself and just remember that someday if you if you do this long enough for example myself I've been doing this kind of work pretty regularly for five or six years you start to consider what's gonna happen if down the road someone else looks inside and sees my work are they gonna say my goodness you know you've had a terrible person look at this before and I didn't really want that to happen I've been inside plenty of devices where I've seen bad workmanship and like people leaving all kinds of messes inside and you know burning things that guy I've even seen people use the wrong types of solder where they'll use solder intended for plumbing and you come back and you look at their work and the PCB has completely corroded because it's the wrong type of solder to use and it was you know just ruining things and it's something that has been a problem for years I mean Voltar has highlighted this forever because devices like this you don't you know you don't have to a lot of people don't have to show the inside and actually what they're doing so there's a lot of people that don't want to take the time to do the wreck the best that they can and then or they get rushed for time they don't want to take again the extra steps to do the proper cleaning and then you or they take shortcuts or you know get happy with things like glue and then it gets it's trouble for the rest of us who are actually trying to do a good job because then you know we kind of get lumped in a category with people who do for work sometimes so but it's like any field you know Josh this one asked if this one's mine or a client's this particular one belongs to me as of right now and that's why I'm doing like the upgraded kit because I want to do I want to do a more recent one of these it's been like I said a while since I've actually done this upgrade kit and I want to see how it works I want to do some testing but eventually I will sell this one and the main reason is and it will be so I mean I only sell really to be honest with you guys I only sell on the patreon mostly like so good people can just get send me a message if they're looking for something and I try to find them but I'll list this on there offer it to a couple people and see if they want it because I've got a 14 m2 that's actually being delivered this afternoon hopefully it will make it and not be destroyed but because I've gone from having a run of having a lot of them arrive in good condition but lately I've had two or three that have just shown up broken so hopefully that won't happen it's never knows UPS there's a good chance it won't survive but that way I can clear out room I needed to clear shelf space to bring in that 14 m2 so I'll get this m2 you done and see what we'll do with it I'd like to sit and take some extra time and catch up with Keith Rainey again and run through like the color stuff possibly on this chassis and this monitor so that would be a lot of fun to actually work through that so let's go in now and kind of check off what we've done I don't know that let's see we've done 584 572 and then 596 so we can go now to the next zone which is right next to that there's actually it's it's this the way I like to work through these boards because it's you can work through it step by step now we're over here in this area there's two under this finger and one over here hello people Felipe thank you for joining this morning so we've got C 585 over here 588 and 590 over here now five let's see one of these is an upgrade part also that is this 590 right here we're going from a 2.2 micro farad just up to a hundred volt version so let's let's slip that one in that's 590 so that's here of 90 and then 588 is just a 10 micro farad 50 volt which we've already replaced a few of and we should be able to find one of those pretty easily right here 50 volt 10 lovely red cap that's 590 legs pushed out a little more 585 is a little bit of a bigger one which one is it it is a this is another one there's an upgrade part my also so we had a 250 volt 4.7 originally and then we are moving up for 10 micro farad 250 volt 585 right here we're upgrading hey super guys CRT how's it going man happy Friday to you too thank you for the amazing super chat super guy has one of the best CRT collections you'll see on the internet so when you have a second you should definitely go check out his channel and his really cool CRTs I'm a 6 vibe thanks for joining I'm looking forward to working on a couple CRTs just looking at some really cool ones that I think are rare that he has and he's always nice enough to offer them to send to me he sent me the two smallest ones I've covered which were very much liked on the channel so I thoroughly enjoy having the opportunity of working with very cool people and collectors like that that want to let me take a look at their stuff so we're going with our next block of three 588 590 and 585 two of these are the upgrade parts as I spoke about earlier just going here and pack these legs in first off and once they're set well in here and there we go straight out those negative leads on the caps there's a little bit caught under there so as we've proven even though so this this monitor ran for I think two to three hours yesterday it didn't have a single issue but it's never been serviced in 2001 but it's never again never been serviced and we've already found a couple of capacitors that were bad in it that were in pretty crucial areas so what that tells me is that there's a lot of times where nobody would really know there's a lot of things that when you own one of these if you don't like you could work perfectly or just have some tiny little issue that maybe you don't even notice and could be a bad capacitor very possible or could show no symptoms at all and have a couple of bad caps and still function pretty well but eventually you'd figure that enough caps will fail that a direct issue will occur and that's usually when I get a call but the wise would go in and arrange to either do what I'm doing now or have this done to their CRT that way you know it can give you some peace of mind to know that these crucial caps are all fresh because these capacitors they should be fine for 10 to 15 years no matter really the usage hey thanks Belmont I appreciate the five dollars super chat it's awesome thank you man I really appreciate you being here at all the streams it's been a lot of fun I know I've been like crazy on the schedule of the streams but I've been trying to let other people that normally can't catch them I've been you know as my schedule allows trying to branch out so everybody can kind of catch a stream it if they don't normally get to dependent on where they are in the world because I know a lot of people view from all over the place alright so here we go we're going to QC check what was just changed out so I'll zoom you down here and we can look at it together we've got this capacitor right here 585 the upgraded cap so we check that one off our list we can check off these two 588 and 590 because we've got the 50 volt 10 on the 590 and I'm sorry 590 is the outside one the inside one that's the upgrade part yep we got them right okay let's mark those off hey godfather Nick good to see you too now we can move on to our whole next block and section and as you go through here and you're checking stuff it's a good idea to just verify that all these components are in good health visibly so for example I'll go in here and check just to make sure that none of these see how these resistor legs they do stand up I don't want them to like touch any metal or be touching another component and possibly somehow short concrete season concrete season for Belmont and we'll get off a little bit topic here as I go in and I move on to our next section Belmont you're in the car you're in the concrete business this may surprise you actually have a degree in concrete that's the specialty that my engineering degree was in just concrete concrete industry management and I spent before I was an insurance I spent the years working in ready mix plants all over the place man I worked for a company called BASF chemicals which is a pretty big company and I was a sales representative and I got to go to I actually lived in Portland Oregon okay flat work yeah that's cool yeah so I was ad mix like a chemical that would be inserted into the concrete that would make it do something pretty exotic increase the strength make it easier to finish things like that I was with you know we would come up with a lot of the chemical compounds and admixtures not me personally this was amazing you know lab full-on lab people but we would go I mean I worked on bridges out in the West I worked on one of the biggest jobs I ever worked on was on the Columbia River in between the it was on the border of the Washington Washington State and Oregon because I lived in Portland at the time and they were pouring thousands of yards of concrete at a dam it was a spillway they were creating and it was like a 50 million dollar it probably turned out to be a hundred million dollar job when it was done to make a spillway for the salmon just the salmon to swim through because they were getting chopped up in the turbines of the dam and they couldn't have that so they had a huge project and they were pouring concrete that was outside they mixed the concrete on site and then we had a chemical that would hold it together so it wouldn't separate underwater so you it would be like it would become water tight it would still be liquid but it would become watertight and the reason was water tight is you could actually place that concrete underwater it was a special expensive concrete and you could place this concrete underwater and when you did it wouldn't wash out no water would get into it and make it in worst shape so they had underwater divers with the old-school airline and like metal helmets real old-school divers they were in there for eight hour shifts underwater placing concrete we're going over in this area sorry for that tangent for a second I just thought and I would give you a little story time we got cap 534 which is a 250-22 it's a big one 534 250 volt 22 get those legs pushed down and then we have we're gonna go ahead and hit up these three over here 509 is a that's the big one 506 is the one we're looking for 50 volt 0.47 so we've got right here let's sit down there since legs got a little twisted and now we're ready for the big one big man here 100 volt 47 micro farad but I'll be honest with you working in concrete wow that was tough a lot of the jobs were in the middle of the night and hours away and lots and lots and lots of hours I spent when I had that job it was one of the jobs you know you don't get paid hourly of course because your salaried employee she would spend 70 hours a week with road time because organ is a big state we service the best majority of it you'd have jobs that were four or five hours away from each other within the state pretty easily sometimes even further alright this is our block of four caps everything's in the correct direction give it the flip and we'll solder it oh my goodness hey and cat and hey Stan welcome back that's pretty amazing so these watch and she I'm not sure they're watching it on a Phillips CRT that's awesome the lips CRT's I do have one Phillips Magnavux CRT up in my garage it's a flat screen one of those later models I haven't got to use it yet but I do I'm excited to I like those little things you know call me crazy but again 13 inch CRT's I love 13 inch CRT it's like my dirty secret of what I like to collect our 13 inch CRT's 13 inches is just the perfect size because you don't really have any trouble moving them on your own she gets like 20 inches and stuff it I mean you can move a 20 inch on your own but it just starts to get to get old it's a gets all it gets old moving big CRT's the older you get it gets very old and unfun young man's game moving those big 27 and 34 32 and 36 inch tubes goodness yeah actually going back while I'm tacking in these four capacitors going back to concrete I worked there for a little while and then I finally I'll be honest with the office politics is funny that's what actually got me kind of outed at that job I didn't I didn't know how to really play the political game this is when I was fresh out of college that was my first job and I know it may sound goofy to some people but a large company there's a lot of politics going on so eventually I got blamed for some really weird stuff just like other people's ineptitude with their projects and since I was basically the new guy they eventually asked me to basically resign after a couple years and instead I just went I quickly found another job and I moved back to Tennessee where I had grown up for my teenage years and when I went to I took another job but that was with a company called old castle and what we made there was we had it was called a precast structure business so we would make things at our factory mix our own concrete and then we would produce items to order and then ship them out people come pick them up so it wasn't like we'd go to different jobs it was all a factory environment industry environment and things were shipped or picked up taking other places also made a lot of concrete pipe I was in charge of quality control that was my that was my when I took that job so I went from the sales position at BASF and then I took the job with old castle and this was right prior to the first like economic crash of 2008-09 the housing crash and everything I mean things were looking bad right then so right after I took that job I had like half a dozen people working under me in the quality control department and by the time I was let go because eventually a couple years down the road I got let go eventually just because of cutbacks like the factory went from having a 500 employees to like 40 during this time period and this was after I had to actually take a mandatory like 25% pay cut also so it was terrible it was a bad time to be in the business and honestly that's one of the reasons I got into insurance at that time was because the concrete business was such was in such dire straits so we're gonna change out these two hey get somebody else I'm sorry I don't know what your name is but we do another visitor from China it's awesome thank you we do we do we can to try to maintain these machines right so we're looking at 512 and 592 but we were talking about quality control so let me just go ahead and do my quality control check where I've got my capacitors here and here and then here and here and we're all good on 509 513 513 should be a 50 volt 10 or good there 509 is the big one 506 is a 50 volt 0.47 that's correct and then this one is the 534 a big one too all good we're getting we're getting there we have one two three four five six looks like we have about 11 capacitors to go there's still some times where I go back and think what what life would have been like if I'd have stayed in the concrete business but it just wasn't wasn't meant to be or at least not for now I I do however remember a lot of things from that time period that and that phase of my life it's like weird phases where I was in certain industries for 10 years and then got to spit out to other things the life of an American worker all right 512 under here is a 50 volt 0.47 and one of those right here and then 592 is a 250 volt 4.7 so it should be right here that's a little bit of an upgrade that was a 160 volt 250 volt will be a little bit of an upgrade which is fine never wrong I mean it's never a problem really to go up on voltage with components it's not generally making a difference as far as performance it's just a little bit maybe a little bit more wear resistant here we go hey Stephen good to see you today Stephen is a longtime watcher follower supporter of the channel so it's nice to see people have been hanging around and following the work for years thank you Stephen and it looks like one of the jazz tunes man it's got some got some words on it sorry I didn't screen all the music let's skip that one go to the next tune I just you know I was going for a certain vibe so I checked out about the first 15 seconds of each one of these songs before I came on live and thought I thought people kind of enjoyed the vibe of the stream yesterday and I thought why not continue on with it there's a lot of things that feel high strong and stressful why not come here and just relax and you know have it a place to chill out not have to worry about things just enjoy the ambiance because after this I'll have to be getting ready after I get done with all this stuff I'll have to start getting my house ready for for the holiday Sunday getting all my food and did all my landscaping already for the season thankfully that all went well but now I got inside work to do and answer a quick message here from the misses right let's move on now we've got those two done right here five five nine two five twelve we're here right now in this area these are good so we can mark those off our list 512 we're getting down to the nitty-gritty band here we got we get to swing around this side of our chassis and now we're gonna get into this zone and then finish up over in this zone so we're getting there the home stretch I mean we've only got nine eight or nine capacitors to go next up let's get this one down here five four one no we've got some trouble ones to get to so let's do five two nine five two three five four one five four one is a 50 volt 4.7 so we'll get that one down in there pushed up hey Jeff manager thank you for the five dollar super chat I appreciate it a lot and says he's enjoying the stream got the vibrate thank you yeah I think I think we finally found our good vibes on the streams I've been trying to find out you know what would be a good consistent flavor for these streams and it seems like this this will do well this type of a vibe so we're looking at 523 and 529 and those are what I'm seeing those are both 50 volt 1 micro farad so we got two of those here and again according to the notes one of these 529 which is the one back here by this transformer and this big capacitor right in between there that's an upgrade we're gonna do an upgrade part used to be a point four seven micro farad capacitor now this is the one where as you can tell my fat fingers really have a hard time getting that down in there and the one or two times that it comes in handy to have pliers or even just some whoop that's the tricky part about the weasers is there a little bit trickier to use we'll try to get I'm gonna move this a little bit out of the stream I think I'm getting my fingers down there actually this time yeah oh yeah so get that pushed down in there push those aside and we will solder in after we get this other five 50 volt one micro farad cap over on this end which is 523 so be a nice little section of three those three red capacitors right there flip this over side a little bit you're looking right here are our capacitor legs so we'll get our soldering iron out tech that leg into place sometimes I like to straighten the legs out so put a little bit more heat back on that for a second straighten that leg out and then finally we go straight at that leg that leg I'm gonna come back over here and put some heat on this leg and try to get it straight down so there we go yes I'm excited to see I mean this is a lot of changes in the cap kit as far as like upgrade parts or suggested changes from sunny bulletins and save on Pat so it's gonna be an it's gonna be an interesting thing to see all this happen of course if then if there's an issue I'm gonna go back and like scratch my head as to what could be causing it and then sometimes I get concerned making so many changes if something happens then what do you recommend you don't recommend making the changes usually going back to just the standard but let's hope I've got faith that everything's gonna be good the one thing you gotta do those take your time again on this this part of the board because there's so many components and just a single cap can have numerous traces there's that one there's that one there's one more 529 over here by the transformer there we go all right these are moving along nicely about an hour in and we have been just moving very nicely as far as our pacing and those are our three capacitors everything looks good one 50 volt 4.7 and those are the two 50 volt ones so we go in here on our list 523 and 529 and 541 and leaves 586 and then the five other capacitors that are additions and these five capacitors I've added are all believe those are all in this area yeah on the heat sink curves in this area there there's there's five more in here that I'd normally haven't had as part of my kit before these are ones that I've hijacked from save on pats cap kit list so we'll see just how that all goes got a 50 volt 100 was this one 16 volt 1000 so it might be short one capacitor where is the 586 25 another it's okay all right good so we're gonna go in here now we're gonna get this one next to the heat sink over here this is a 50 volt 100 and we are going to a 105 degree high quality replacement on this one and most I mean really everyone but this one specifically was an 85 degree capacitor we're gonna upgrade that since it's next that heat sink hopefully give a little bit more durability then we can move down here and hit up 574 which to check the backside some of these aren't marked correctly 570 which is our bigger 16 volt 1000 micro farad capacitor that one sit down in there another high quality replacement we'll have these three left so that's we got one more in between there that will sneak in here it's this one right here I'm not sure what the number is it's hard to see from that side looks like 564 is the number 564 right in there stuff 50 volt 10 and looks like we're moving from red to black but that's okay still another good high quality replacement same specifications in there just different color different brand now straighten this out come back in here and get the soldering take a sip of my H2O so you got to keep hydrated you know gotta keep hydration levels up so you can maintain it high level of concentration high level of concentration needed to be a peak performer no matter the task that leg straightened out there are two negative ends those look at this straightened out finally take in said now yes getting the very white vibes in here now trim these legs up man it is so nice to be this close to having these finished I can't believe we're about to be done let's hope that everything's right nasty this this one I'm about to solder it connects to a couple of this trace connects to a couple different places so you got to be mindful of that and that's why I did the other leg first to tack down so five six four now that's the one that I showed yesterday on stream that the leg of the component is just right in the middle of all these pieces that one had capacitors and surface mount resistors all right all right there three okay Andy that's a good question there's people have different opinions on caps which caps to use do you actually worry about your replacement caps and the truth is pretty much all but there's like 15 brands of high quality capacitor companies there's not just one you know so I'm less concerned with sticking with the brand as trying to get the capacitor right and make sure that it's a good high quality capacitor and that's why you'll see I mean these are sometimes the cheapest capacitors and that's worth electronics they are really top quality they perform well they stand out being read but other than that I love these capacitors and those are the cheapest ones I use anything else other than that that you've noticed is you know the black ones are generally Rubicon Nishikon and then there's like in and I can't remember what IC stands for but in intro chemicon or something like that any brand that's that's sold on like Mauser or Digikey honestly those are usually really good brands the ones you want to stay away from is eBay because they sell like Chong X and and these just really poor quality capacitors we got 586 right so let's let's first off check off the list I got the 50 volt 100 of 579 570 and 564 570 579 564 good that leaves a big one and then the other two are simply 50 volt 10 microfrids so here's another one that's on the cheaper end it's probably about the same price as worth and it's black but it's also a great great capacitor that's Lelon so don't get too carried away with thinking there's a big difference in the brands because the biggest issue that made me really you know get away from being so married to one brand or two brands of capacitors was the the parts shortages that we had been experiencing the last two plus years I'm gonna install these and then we'll come back and install the very last cap by itself but these are C 581 and 577 they're both 50 volt 10 but that the parts shortages of the last couple years have made it really difficult to just be married to Nishikon and Rubicon caps because some of those would go out of stock on certain values and and wouldn't be restocked for goodness some of them listed like till now so now we're getting stock 2023 but back when it was 2021 and you said man I just want to get this one cap and it says it won't be ready till 2023 well you can tell that you can't you can't just rely on waiting for years to be able to just waiting for production to come back just to get a specific brand that would be kind of silly so that's what made me branch off more and more and try look at data sheets reputations there they're all you know you're not going to get a deal selling on Mauser usually unless you have or digi key unless you have met some pretty high standards as far as business capabilities so I tend to trust the fact that they're all being sold on that website to as another confirmation that these parts are quality this is another one that's right in the danger zone I'd call it, it's like so many little parts and I like to get you know a uniform looking solder joint in there which is not always capable of doing that okay two more down yeah yeah this is actually a medical PVM so people are talking to chat about how somebody's actually seen one still in use in the medical facility that's interesting the last time I saw a CRT or PVM attached to a device it was in a vet hospital like smaller vet clinic for dogs and cats and that was three or four years ago last cap on the kit is a 25 volt 1000 microfarad capacitor here 586 to check off 577581 leaves 586 on the list I'll check it off because there's no other caps in the kit we will tack in get this one done right and then we can go in and start cleaning let's probably wash it where safety glasses that leg of that capacitor can't fly and back at me let's tack in finish cleaning up C586 here there we go beautiful all right so took roughly an hour and 20 minutes on stream here to install this capacitor kit on this aboard and that's all in this area right in the center of the screen now so I'm just gonna go through and make sure that all these capacitors are pointing the right direction just another check even if you check things two or three times it's never a bad thing you you would be so much better off to catch a mistake you've done prior to turning it on it's just a great thing to get in the habit of everything's looking really good here really good okay also check those resistors as I'd mentioned other components make sure they're not sticking down against something you can use these ESD tools and straighten those things up and do a quality check on just whatever you want I mean this is a perfect time to look at things and make sure that nothing looks out of place or incorrect good time make sure all your cards are seated everything looks good clusters even look fine crystals are good I just like to have these inductors make sure they're not touching anything we'll make sure you clear up the areas around your connections where you're gonna have to go plug in things reassemble and everything's looking really good excellent okay I'm very happy with my things look and now hey Tony's a surgeon Tony Escobar says a surgeon he got his first CRT from his office that's awesome is mounted on the wall at my office you got the retro gaming bug during the COVID break lockdown but possibly what you take it that's the greatest one and that's that's such a like a lottery thing like you learn about retro gaming and you're like oh my gosh there's actually like one of the best CRTs in the world right there and I never really thought about it till now here we go now we're gonna get in and we're gonna clean this up and then we're gonna put the tray back on it a little plastic tray and I clean this chassis usually vertically so this should work out for a good view but I need to get some some stuff and put it under there I'm putting a piece of cardboard under this just so it'll catch what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna actually spray isopropyl alcohol in the back of here and clean each around each post that we've serviced and brush and then that can over down here but I should also have a couple paper towels let me grab those real quick cleaning materials prepared here and we're ready to get to cleaning just gonna rearrange some things I shouldn't need anymore so we'll get them out of the way things like snips out of those tools we won't need anymore because now we're just on the cleaning phase so let's get a nice spot there to catch a lot of that and we will get to work and what I also like to do is I like to use this so have some q-tips over here but I like to use this little dish and then I will spray that isopropyl into this container and then I get to use my secret brush to scrub around these components that's this secret little brush here a crappy old minions kids brush ESD safe all plastic just dip that guy right in that isopropyl alcohol and we're gonna start up here from the top end and work our way down hopefully you don't have to worry about this end that we didn't recap at all but just like the other boards we're gonna run into leftover residue from Sony and the factory that's gonna get sticky and oozy from us cleaning our work so the trick is to come down here wipe off the seat as I wipe this off down here this spot will turn more and more yellow you don't want to just take and dip it right back in here you're gonna contaminate all the alcohol in there and then like you'll just be rubbing yellowed nasty alcohol with lucks in it just back and forth on the board that you just cleaned because each time that yellow will come off there more and more so be mindful of that it's another time to really check out the integrity of the work we just completed like how does this solder look how do these points that we soldered how do they look just put my own rule there but you can't you don't have to worry about it as much as after you start getting the areas cleaned you can just go straight back into it kind of once you get all that lucks off but it's just a good way to compare what you've actually done to like the soldering points right next to it I like to try to make my work where it's like well you can tell somebody's been here because like this solder shiny it's shinier than the dull solder that the old solder you can tell somebody's been here but that's all I want you to do I don't want you to say oh I can tell somebody's been here because that looks like trash like they've reworked it and it just doesn't look good I'd rather it to be like did somebody work here before work on this yes okay probably because it looks like these parts have been changed and as you can see down here we're also getting just some runoff on the board where the alcohols running down the board and it's just taking a lot of this blucks with it right off the board down to the base and what that's gonna do is leave a sticky trail on this board and that's why you get stuck cleaning basically the whole board but these are some of the jobs that nobody really wants to concentrate on or the stuff where you got to clean you know but take pride in your work make it look wonderful nothing there's there's really not too many things there's our things that are better but not too much feels better than the accomplishment of finishing a job like this knowing you've done it right and knowing that it'll be good for a long time you don't have to worry about coming back in here and doing this again just gonna continue on cleaning because along this edge there's a lot of built-up solder from the factory I want to get the majority of that off with this smaller brush here's some caps in the zone that we installed that coming off there that you're not gonna hurt the boards by getting this alcohol on it so no worries there there we go it used to be a print time when people actually took good you know we're concerned with how their products performed and like how they lasted but fortunately nowadays companies are more concerned with getting you to throw out the device they just sold you so you can buy the next one they don't really want you to have things that last a long time so we lose in that process we lose a lot of what made these devices so great to begin with and that was the fact that they were hearty and strong devices that that were built well that weren't gonna fall apart and weren't designed to fall apart like planned obsolescence or anything like that just a scourge on the economy as a whole and as our we try to you know get things more this week it's a it's it's stymies technological breakthrough creativity I feel like okay that's ranting let's go ahead now I'm gonna do a little dab here like that and then I'll show you what we have left here we've got look at all that they came off there all that nasty sticky flux and there's still some more on this board so what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna move up to a little bit bigger of a brush we've taken the small brush kind of gotten all the big stuff off the way using a new cleaner brush that's a little bit bigger than I can go through here and do broader strokes kind of but also it's meant to more do a secondary clean up than the primary one oh there we go tipsy turvy tipsy turvy so keep doing that for a little bit and then then I need to like dry it a little bit now if you go in here and let me show you what happens if you take your air blower and you blow dry this clean you're gonna end up with this amazing like mess now let me show you what I mean I'm just gonna do it so you can see it but okay I apologize for that loud obnoxious noise there for a second but I wanted to show you you could see how it looks clean at one second but then when you wipe it all off you get this this white powdery dust that's left over from the evaporated you can see it right here there's a good contrast about how this is the untouched portion of the board where we didn't do any repairs and didn't really clean over here we have all kinds of alcohol and other residues and so what I like to do let's go back here with a brush and first I'll brush off with this soft brush and try to brush off some of that and you see how that you know basically if you keep doing that that will come off and clean that board up even more and if you want sometimes you get into a board that's real dirty may need to clean it up a little more there's other brushes you can use I have like this crazy brush right here which again is an ESD safe brush it's wood and just hair and you can gently do this you because you don't I mean you don't want it hopefully you don't have a loose part on the board but because that would be pretty devastating but it should be a hardy enough the board should be able to withstand what I'm doing and it does I mean I've done this dozens and dozens of times but this is a good way to knock off that loose dust and really make this board shine just it's usually what I do is do that and then you come back after you hit it with that all that you come back usually dry it off or blow it off again and then nothing you see nothing came back there's a little bit of dust over in this area she could do that and there we go looks amazing so that's that's how I try to be most efficient I don't like to waste a bunch of the alcohol even though it's cheap you know I want to try to not create as much waste as I as I can just because it's costly to manage and buy more stuff so that's what we'll do I'll take a second to also kind of wipe off the top area again just around the edges and things on this board I'm gonna zoom out here for a second and get the trash up and we'll just kind of dust everything off again and as we're doing that it's another chance to just check things make sure things look right doesn't nothing looks out of place strange or anything everything looks ready to get back together have a party here in a second reunite this chassis with the rest of its boards in the tube and it should be good give it one last blow there we go but my screws in this I do need a couple of these screws from the screw kit so we'll get those screws installed get them ready get this need this brush anymore get these out of the way now we get ready to put things back together first off we're gonna put the chassis back in there to see maybe a couple spots in here to make sure that it's nothing such just again residue see you can sit here and look for hours and find dirty stuff on a board like this and just want to reclaim it and reclaim it and reclaim it but unless you have pretty much an ultrasonic cleaner or 10 hours dedicated to cleaning then that's you got to stop somewhere can't just worry about it you're not eating off the chassis you're just getting it set up to work again alright everything's out of the way we got to reinstall four screws on this board so we've got Phillips head screws we do three along the board and then one at the flyback so we'll save the flyback for last these are just to secure the board into here like so it doesn't shift around don't want to over tighten it just tight enough to where you can feel that you can't physically screw it anymore don't over tighten this this will split your board if you do good I just get this last one over here on the side it's a little trickier it's under the card but you can slip in there and do it like that okay make sure that card's good that card's so good inserted last screw goes in here at the flyback so I'm gonna get in this way try to guide it in that way and that's this one goes in here oh it's a little trickier to get to definitely can't fit my fingers down there we'll try this and out of there I don't really like to use that one in these tight spots because it's magnetic wants to stick to everything so it's easy to start the screw hey great that's in that's in my friend and so we can zoom out and here we go now I'm gonna brush it off one more time while it's in here let's see some stuff we're gonna make sure it's nice and clean I'm ready to go need checking everything looks good okay now we can reinstall this just as our input board input board's pretty straightforward 99 out of 100 times this input board doesn't need anything more than just a little bit of a cleaning generally nothing goes wrong with this and it gets rusted or something so first thing I want to do is connect these points right there and we've got all those other connections we get out of the way so this is gonna come in connect to there these actually do connect to our board so we've got this will connect to this card here there leave this connects down here to this connection point then we can slip this on here get that in and we have the whole chassis set up now so that we can turn around and install it in the tube behind us set it's the all camera and we're gonna reinstall this chassis into our tube so this is it turn around do the exact opposite of what I did when this was coming off so trickiest parts just get in there make it sure to give yourself enough room to connect everything be a little tricky sometimes because you don't want to be forceful you want to you don't want to rip cables you might disconnect something at the you're gonna be too forceful you know you don't miss the connection all right we're getting there I promise should be able to push it all the way in there so that sits against the there's there's lips or like a shelf in there and it slides right in under the shelf once you get the board in there correctly make sure no cables are pinched there we go for that and we'll go ahead and screw these ground plates this ground plate in this other screw back in so that the ground plates there we have one more screw just one more and then we can get things ready to test you get two more things to connect looks like one of them we definitely don't want to forget but I have heard nightmares of some people forgetting to do it and that's connect the flyback that would be a tragedy wouldn't it all right skin thing set here I turn this around the other and I'm gonna clean this cap out a little bit it's pretty nasty this dirt some dust in it and normally I would go in here and add some of this we arrange this yeah sorry everybody I know I'm just taking my time on this part so if we look here at the the camera turned around we look at the anode cap specifically my tripod here okay normally I would add some dielectric grease to this but there's already a bunch up here so I'm just gonna move it around no point net me adding any extra that's definitely plenty plenty plenty plenty and then I'll just slip this cap in here push the prongs together get that in there my voltage to a neck board connect and then I can go around here and check and make sure that everything is connected I'll do that before I turn it on okay I visually verified everything is connected as it should be so there's really only one thing to do one thing left to do that's just do that right there that way so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna test composite video just to start with and I've got my cable here and I've got a power cable here plug it up search protectors turned off there's no way any power is going into any devices yet but what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna power my power into the monitor and the waveform vector monitor and then that way we know our signal now this will show us that the signal coming through is good so we know we're getting a signal and if it's working properly then it should so show that signal obviously on our screen up top as long as we're on input a oh goodness hold on to your butts we're about to do it just last check I want to make sure this is not turned on turn that on I'm gonna turn this light out this light out anymore and now we'll get the camera set up a little lower and I see that the Super Nintendo is turned on which is good I don't know I can't really get that back up anymore that's right so first off we're gonna turn on the waveform monitor and we're gonna let it come online then I can let's hear the startup mom maybe we will yeah so I see that my I've got the vector scope on just playback so for example it's not on vector scope mode it's on playback mode so you can see this is the 240p test suite in monochrome down here and I guess we should go ahead and do it it's really is nerve-racking let's see you know what happened to my darn waveform monitor the backlight went out on it on both these screens so now I've definitely got to repair this unit too all right here we go make sure everything's set to like a standard level nothing's cranked all the way up oh I don't know if you heard it I hear I hear the CRT coming online I hear it I believe I believe all the believers out there we have we have success looks like whoo look at that screen baby there we go we turn the brightness brightness down is to touch for you contrast to but this is just part of the process we basically have to let this thing run for a good half an hour before we can really get into it and adjust it I mean it seems a good so now that it's let me give you some tips now that now that it's back online it's up and running we don't want to really get into the adjustments just yet we don't want to just jump in and start making adjustments because these caps are so fresh this is their first time of being energized you know finally got that first jolt in them and now now we need to give them some time to use that voltage get some electricity flowed into them so I like to let it run for an hour or so and before I would even consider really making any adjustments sometimes I'll let it run for six to eight hours before I make any adjustments just because I want to have those things broken in this so yeah this is it let's get in here and again this is composite video and why would I care about composite video the funny thing is about these monitors hey thanks Jeff manager with another five dollars for the win I appreciate it so we can take and check let's let's go to the SM PTE color bars here which is the standard color bars if I hit it again it goes to a hundred percent brightness I'm sorry if the focus goes in and out here I'll do a little bit of a different view or a touch too because that seems to help so what I actually want to do is I'm gonna turn this over the vector scope so it looks like this pattern which then I can get in here and whoops that's so see this is this is the vector scope down here that I'm enlarging right now this right here and I know it looks like like a crazy hourglass almost like a three part hourglass that's a good that's what it should look like for the most part that just proves that the signal coming out of the Super Nintendo is a good composite video signal that's what you want it to look like and then you have our waveform monitor down here which is it's not set to the right size I'll expand or I'll expand it a little bit and where we need to bring it up just a touch that and then we want to expand that so we can actually see it on the screen be something like that and that just shows us a good pattern of step down pattern of the colors on here so this just looks that's all the reason I'm showing you this is so that we verified that we have a pretty darn good stable composite video signal I have other ones like from a Genesis 2 and this will just this thing will spin and this doesn't look as good and it's not a good composite signal but why do I want that good composite signal well I want to try a run in the auto color calibration on the CRT real quick so to do that you need to inject good color bars like this this is the pattern and all you have to do is real simple we're gonna go in here menu and now my there we go we're gonna go in here to preset oh look here's the preset adjustments where we can set something for that where is the actual interesting I might have to ask Keith Rainey to come on because I thought she should just when I did it in the L series it was just under maybe it's in there config I doubt it let's see I'll chroma setup I'm sorry so I was looking through all this stuff go to configuration config we're gonna do chroma setup hit enter chroma and we're gonna go down here to auto adjust you're gonna hit enter see what it says this is auto adjust signal NTSC which is what we have select bar signal set position and then set all the things to regular and we can hit enter and hopefully it'll do it see how it's it says progress completed so that's it that's the auto chroma setup so it's it's gone in there and just auto corrected the chroma coloring on the screen okay that's all you have to do but if you have a bad if you have bad color bars coming from a bad signal this will say failed or aborted and then you'll be out of luck and that's it for like the basic standard little setting on there let's get out of this and show you just some stuff on the screen I do have the brightness turned down a good bit in the contrast and that is for the camera so oh this is a good one super Castlevania is a good one to show you a lot of colors a lot of different things on the screen if it works there we go so what do you think is a pretty good restoration I mean it did take two hours to do this board so I mean yeah four hours just to do this section and that's not including the preparation work off screen this is a great little project I say but it is a you know it's like a full day if you go in and you do this because now you're going to wait let this thing run and then you'll have to come in and pull up the 240p test suite and run different calibration checks and then calibrate the monitor for geometry and colors things even a little bit more it needs to be color or calibrated for like gray scale and then also brightness and contrast so that's another couple of hours so you could see how this job of a restoration on one of these can turn into something that's a whole day even if you conclude the time that you would spend cleaning this if a problem arises you're talking about even more time so there's still a couple of hours of things to do but what I'm going to do now is I'm going to go I'm going to take a quick break about five or ten minutes I'm going to leave the stream running I'm going to switch over to the other camera stream of your running I'll leave this set going with everything like you see and I will come back and join you in a minute I'll put a note here in the chat also if anybody shows up but I will come back and hang out with you guys for a little bit we'll have a quick chat and talk about just anything that you guys are into but thanks just give me a one minute or five to ten minute break all right coming back to you live here again and thank you for the break hope some people stayed in there and got to check out the CRT for me so we just let it run for a little bit here and then I actually will as it runs I'm going to get it set up to run through and check out some calibrations with you we'll check out some geometry calibrations and as we get ready for that I'm going to need to set up some different things on the CRT because I don't really want to while you can start with these color balancing from this composite video signal you really don't want to obviously use the composite video signal if you have to for unless you have to I'm sorry for things like geometry you want to use a better pattern just a regular and you want to use RGB or component but we're going to use RGB so I'm going to change things over to RGB let me show you a couple of interesting things that I have here that I'll be using to help with my measurements first off I have this old measuring tape and it is soft and plastic and the reason I bring this up is because this can go against a tube a curved tube and we can use it to use it to make physical use it to make physical measurements and get numbers so that we can make sure our aspect ratio is correct for the most part that's the most important thing uh at least to me so we can use this now on this smaller tube that's 14 inches we can also use this which this is a flexible ruler and it's not very big it goes up to five inches but that's plenty for a 14 inch screen we should be able to do just about everything we need with this so we can use this to assist also hey yeah so if you look if you've arrived in the break it's okay we're about to look at some calibrations on this set that we just got done restoring as far as like the hardware is considered so again everybody's been here knows but we've gone through now and we've restored three boards the power supply and the neck board were done in yesterday's stream and then today's stream we started off um recapping the main a-board and that's our deflection cap kit in that third one we did find some bad caps some that red bad some that looked bad and prior to me doing this cap kit the set was working fine so let's get now i'm going to go over here grab some gear and i'm going to plug this and we're going to get set up to rgb i won't need the waveform monitor for this because i can't use it on rgb anyway so i'm going to get that set up and give me a brief moment here and just watch things as they happen let's see if i'm able to kind of spin this thing around while it's running so i can show you the the adapter it's hopped a little curb there all right so this is the back of the EVM i'm going to disconnect this i just want to get some of these cables out of the way i won't need that and then we'll disconnect composite video so that we don't have to worry about that anymore get these cables out of the way leave us with just our power now i'm going to plug up my scart adapter which gives me you know of course scart on one end b and c on the other we'll use line a and let's connect in the red green and blue there and then the sink there and i always tell people the trick with these crts is they are mono speakers but you can take and pick both your left and right audio for stereo plug that in to the end and out on that port right there and it will actually send the stereo speaker into them or stereo signal into the mono speaker now i do have a couple of scart cables that are scart to super nintendo and this is an old one from retro access so hopefully it still works i've got a couple here just in case one doesn't work hopefully that won't be an issue but you just plug this in back in super nintendo that has been modified whole tires kit and here we go let's spin it back around and then we need to switch over to our line a component rgb i'm sorry we're in rgb there we go glorious and beautiful rgb just just take a gander at this and see if see if it's worth everything that everyone is all crazy about because i think it is i'll take a sip of my coffee here and get ready for the next part of our journey today getting out of focus there so i'll leave my arm here it'll just stay in focus a little bit we're just out of focus all right so as you can tell things are looking really really good really sharp this is again a 600 line tube looks just fabulous okay so let's get in here i'm not sure that there's a better camera angle than just this let me pull myself down here we'll turn turn this camera off momentarily pull myself over inside here and i'm gonna try and walk you guys through a bit of the calibration process here for our um let me make sure i move my camera so it's a little bit more stable it's there we go we're going to run through some of the calibration again on our set now because it's been running i want to say probably 30 minutes maybe a little less but we can do that in the time frame we have here now i will warn you that whichever one of these 240p test suites or oh no let me try some lighting tricks to help a little bit that less light will help on the screen here which is more important get rid of that moray any no it's even worse that way so um whatever device you're using to calibrate with that signal will vary from another device so i'm using a super nintendo right now but if i plugged in if i calibrated according to the super nintendo and i'm plugging a sega genesis there's going to be a shift thankfully it's not usually a shift more than something vertical or horizontal but there will be a shift between those consoles any console really so we're going in and going here and we're going to just do some quick adjustment and look at our monoscope pattern that Keith Rainey's made let me tone down the brightness a little bit on there and turn it a little bit so you get a better idea of what i'm looking at now first off the most important thing to me is getting the screen center and then getting the aspect the overall aspect ratio of the set correct and also i don't want it to tilt any and you could tell from screen tilt based on the tops and bottoms of that grid we just saw but what i like to look at again is like a quick judge here on what we're even starting with let's look at that side is just a touch under three and a half inches okay that's wider than it is long okay so that means our aspect ratio right off the bat is off take it with this like three and a quarter three in we're about an eighth of an inch off but we need to get into our service menu by pressing menu because an inner the first thing i'm going to do is go on to setting number six 60 n or 60 def 60 hertz deflection vertical size okay we need that to be bigger press it once 165 is what's that now twice what does that bring it up to not enough yet still so do two more still two more three more we are almost there but still a little bit small that looks about good almost yes there we have it so this this size is on the side are now matching so that means our aspect ratio no matter what else is going on our aspect ratio is correctly kind of done on the center of this screen let's see what that translates on the edge pardon me so get in here and we'll measure the size of this outer and seven seven and seven that's great so seven and seven that means the outer edge it has the correct aspect ratio so that's all good now let's let me tell you something i want to show you what this looked like when we started i think i could do that pretty easily um you'll be able to see it remember how this looks right now because what it was originally it said 176 look at that 165 is what it was when we turned it on and we need to go these buttons are a little sticky they need to be cleaned there to give proper aspect ratio so when it was in before we even started our calibrations if we'd have just played mario they'd have like he'd have looked a little bit shorter and fatter we would have not been flattering to mario now from this point let's pull up the screw rest of the screen go back to this pattern and take it down a little bit and again one way we can judge our screen to see if it's tilting any is just see if this is leaning any either either ones is this showing are you seeing more of this square down here more characters in there than this side thankfully this yoke has been set excellently by the factory so all four of these corners are in the right position so we have no tilting going on and i don't even see much um like convergence problems at all everything looks super tight on this so that's a real positive of 14 inch that's been set properly so now though we have it and since we're setting it to the standard of a super nintendo i want to center this image a little bit better than what it is right now so i need to go to a different setting right and before well let's finish our vertical sorry before i confuse you and go to horizontal vertical setting vertical center the best thing for me to look at again are the corners and the tops and bottom edges is this showing just about the same as this is if not then i need to go down a little bit it looks like i'm showing a little bit more on the bottom than the top so i do need to go down until pretty much trying to match the dot patterns that looks pretty close so there we go we did need to make a little bit of a vertical adjustment right there okay so that's vertical center again it's going to say in or deflection vertical center doesn't say 60 this time now if we obviously have an issue where our screen is a little bit too far to this side see how we don't see any white line on this edge but we do see white line and not only do i see white line on this edge i see black from beyond the image so i should be able to use video phase vertical again it says this what it says nor 60 def video phase let's go back to our calibration screen so let's see what happens it's on 144 yeah as i expand that and go higher it goes further that way so i need to come back and go lower than 144 quite a bit lower and there we have it see it now we can see almost equal distances on each side and it does look like we're a little bit cramped in the middle like it's pushing in here almost like a waistband effect do you see it it's literally like a waistband effect here let me move this where we're almost pushing in at the center we should be able to change that but we need to go to a higher setting let's see if we can fix that any sexy sexy baby number 13 sexy as i expand that sexy see how it expands that waistband out right in the middle doesn't really involve anything else it was on 150 so i think we still need to go goodness i don't know that looks better to me that 165 yeah it looked did look like a little bit of an hourglass now look it's gonna look a little bit of like an hourglass naturally it's kind of the way i want it to be but we don't really want to be pushing in that far i mean it's 15 it was 15 low it's 15 too low so let's get that let's loosen that belt up a little bit now with this set you get to change let me show you on another input there should be the the meaningful settings to you for your regular deflection is going to be these numbers 17 and below now some of these settings are not going to pertain to you if you're in region depending what region you're in it'll say 50 for pal or it'll say 60 for ntsc mostly you're 60 hertz and then it'll give you just blanket ones that are for both okay so that's where um you want to stay anything over that you get into color and sub settings and other stuff it's not really pertaining to your deflection so um you know i might consider a couple things here now like if you're looking at this the aspect ratio is perfect but personally you know i don't i don't really care too much if this is like a tiny bit squiggly on the edge like i could sit here and nitpick uh the crap out of this and try to you know work it and straighten it out and maybe get it a little bit better and then leave that line there or or cannot really worry about it because i'm not going to be looking at it all the time anyway but the majority of the inner sanctuary of our screen is beautiful so we're pretty fortunate we don't have to make a lot of adjustment here what i will do though is i'm going to expand this image so that we're using up the entire real estate of our tube and once we use up that real estate you can do this someone mentioned the chat shadow a zero zero mentioned that we could do this using the over scan settings and those settings in the menu which we can um so let's uh let's consider that what if we did that so anyway first off let's go back to what i was talking about on the way i want this to look i want to expand this a little bit so i can use up as much of this screen as possible and then i want to also maintain as i expand that horizontally i'm going to have to expand it vertically so i'm going to lose vertical image if i over scan it a little bit but i'm going to use as much my tube and it's going to look super crisp it's going to look super clean and the aspect ratio is going to be good but i have i can't just expand this horizontally again and not expand it vertically to where you're not going to see like the top three quarters of these lines they're going to go out of the image they're going to be up here in the image off screen because i want to expand and i want to maintain that aspect ratio aspect ratio is an important thing when you're using it so so let's do that now so we need to go in here and go to horizontal size and that's going to be on both 50 and 60 hertz doesn't matter okay so we go there and the first thing i need to do is expand this incrementally so we're 118 to start you can see i really have to push it to get it over there all the way it's on 143 now and then that actually showed me that i'm a little bit off on my centerness so i need to push it a little bit these buttons definitely need a little bit of deoxid i know so something like that look i've used up all the vertical edge and uh but to balance that out now i need to expand it vertically because the vertical edge over here on the horizons is all the way to the edge so now i need to expand this to where the sides again match and you can just use the same tactic we did before so now we've got to get the over we've expanded the whole image one one bar on our peon three so we got to go over here to vertical size and we got to go up a little bit more let's try 181 that's pretty close 183 all right so now now we've set that up but look at what it's done it's caused us to lose a lot of that image you saw in this corner same thing up here but we've used all the rest uh all of our real estate here and so now we're gonna have a much bigger image now the one thing i can tell you is that the pin amp looks a little bit off on this just from looking at it and pin amp is right here let's try that it's 137 right now we go up we'll get down or it's hard for me to see from that angle that looks a little bit better to me like we're flattening that edge out and uh just looks a lot better to me so i'm gonna hit now if you're walking through this stuff and you want to save your settings hit degauss once it'll say right hit it again you'll get an asterix above that now it's saved that data okay so that's what um that's what that screen looks like but if again if i went and i pulled this screen up on a different console this whole image could shift to the right and down you know because it's going to have a different blanking and vertical blanking and horizontal blanking setting than the image for the super nintendo so you can't just set this you can set all the good goodies about aspect ratio it'll stay but you may have to shift it vertically or horizontally just the phase and the center depending on what you're using or just deal with the fact that you might have a little bit of image loss so what i like to do is go back here and we'll pull up super castlevania again and let's just let it run through and i don't know whether we'll be able to really tell any major anything majorly looking different but the uh the sets you know that's a pretty pretty good calibration just to do really quickly um there really wasn't a lot of problems with this set to begin with so we'll just let it run i don't know if anybody has any other questions uh i'll probably try to hang out for another 10 minutes and if anybody has any questions i'll get to them i'll be glad to we'll let it run for a minute and just uh maybe we can switch out the game speaking of mario let's let's pull good old mario up for for the new mario movie so um this i probably won't i mean i know i won't have any other streams coming before before this weekend or anything this is going to do it and then next week louis and i will get together for an episode of the cathode ray podcast early in the week and i can maybe hopefully sucker him into doing a live show maybe right after we do our recorded episode uh either way i'll do another i'll try to get together with somebody next next weekend maybe friday evening again if i can um so a week from today to do a live stream i put out a poll today or yesterday on twitter as well as youtube about what i will do next and it looks like the results that poll are everybody wants to see an rgb modification again so i don't mind doing it i put it there as one of the options and there's no surprise to me that uh people want to see that so i have a sony kv that i talked about in the last one similar to that um similar to the uh kv i showed off in the last stream i'm gonna actually do an episode i try to keep it 15 minutes to 20 minutes tight episode about how to rgb mod that one james had a question does a 20 m2 mdu use the same caps you used for the 14 yes but you may run into a situation um where you have an additional cap or something it's really hard to tell there's a couple of different board modifications and the boards it's not really a big difference but but some of them do have one or two more capacitors so the list may look a little different or you might find another cap but for the most part that should be pretty much well on the same marco asked what about fixing linearity warping and that's going to be done in the calibration suite also and that'll be done with the linearity settings if you have that first off you need to have your yoke set properly so it's got to be really good and then from there there usually are a couple of linearity settings like in this monitor i go back into that service menu go back marco will go back here and look at the 240p test suite again and if i pull up that uh the reason i like this older thing is it actually has a linearity i could put this tube in under scan mode and and check the and still make linearity adjustments waltz and understand but the good thing is i can see all the circles and the most important thing for linearity is to make sure that these circles are like the same size and they're round and they're not oblong in any any direction and just like the other tests we did you and patterns you can measure you know the size of these circles and make sure they match you need to expand it one way or the other you can use those you can use your horizontal and vertical settings but you can also use these settings in this monitor so this like has a number 14 it says vertical linearity what else have we got 15 vertical bow but vertical bow vertical angle the some of these will have depending on the model you might have more linearity settings one additional one two additional ones but this as you can see will help fix warping like if i go and i expand this it should make that like see how these became oblong and as i move it down it moves the other end down and if i back out of that hit gong it should take it back to the setting it was before no it didn't okay anyway get that back up to the setting it's pretty good so it really depends on the set that's a difficult thing some of the some of the guys or some of the i'm sorry some of the sets don't have any vertical linearity settings so it's it's really just all dependent on what your set actually has so that's one way to check it uh then you can turn that under scan all back to that screen let's see if anybody has any other questions you having weird inputs on the sink if you're 1401 that you've modified i don't know um i would go back and make sure that there's nothing that like the shielding on the cables is good and stuff on anything that you installed in it i don't know i've never done that modification i did have i was planning on doing an end series modification but the end series monitor that was supposed to be working is actually broken oh yeah james i've been watching uh he's bringing up uh kory and chris from retro gaming quarterly for their podcast yeah they do have a good podcast and i actually i know kory really well i just know how it is too when you try to schedule these things and probably come a time when we'll do something together there's a lot of people that that aren't on regularly you know like i always i want to also have people on that are people that are in the scene that don't maybe they do things on their own a lot or they're not um they're not normally on as much as guys like me and i mean kory he's on a couple times a week you can see him on either his new podcast with chris and also the my life in gaming stream so i'm not i mean i would i love talking to them and good friends and i would definitely of course love to have them on uh but as far as like this is this is a new streaming thing so maybe i will ask them uh as opposed to like gilmin on the podcast but i definitely want to have more uh people come on you know i've got a lot of friends that you guys probably know and know their channels and i'd like them to come on and they said they would so we'll we'll do it you have all right primes gave me a question i have a third 1943 md the power up bong is very loud i wouldn't be concerned about that bong that's a good degausser that's all that is a good strong degausser you know give you that uh make it make your we knees weak you know that makes the ground shake i wouldn't be i wouldn't be upset about that one at all uh i the the thankfully the 43 and 40 series are really well built pvms just keep an eye on any geometry issues waviness in the screens i mean you'll eventually come to a point where you'll have to get that recapped because it's older uh but those tend to last very long all right philly pay thank you for the nine dollar nine nine cents super chat i really appreciate it thanks for the stream steve how are you liking streaming live so far i've actually been enjoying it uh but i'll be honest with you it is a little bit different of a stressful thing um because a lot of people that are in the same you know level or industry whatever you want to call it creator level that i am we're always nervous about trying different things and a lot of people have negative feelings about streaming as far as like how it would impact the numbers on their actual channel and i don't know what to say to that except it's probably true um me doing a lot of streams probably isn't gonna be a healthy thing for me to try to grow this if i was concerned with like numbers and stuff and only concerned with growing youtube subscribers and views then live streaming on the main channel like this would not be a smart thing apparently but at the same time i don't want to have to at this point uh change things up start a different channel really i don't mind doing it on this channel my whole goal is different from becoming some like youtube phenomenons you know watched person i want more or less for people to be able to work on these things learn more about these uh monitors i feel like there's a big there's a big benefit to doing it live where i can interact with everybody um and then the good thing about doing it live is it's kind of done and then it's done but the i just the problem is it's like ebay or ebay sorry youtube isn't really going to go then after the fact and push those streams as something for somebody to come back in and watch much later on i mean i have a couple of hundred people that will but it's not like as far as like the numbers as far as algorithmically it's probably not a great thing but i'm not as concerned with that and i feel like it's more of a help to the community as long as people are willing to watch them and enjoy them then and i'll uh i'll be content with doing them i set up this whole lab uh and i'm finding out where it's kind of like i'm stretching it to the limits on things uh because again like i had to i had to tone down one of the cameras today because it was starting to lock up and i know that this system is limited my computer so i had to tune one camera down like 30 from 60 frames to 30 frames uh then i have another issue where if i power up too many things like something will cut out of power thankfully the first thing that cuts out of power is my monitor that i'm monitoring the stream with so it'll just cut itself off and then it'll cut itself off as like a warning so then i have to go here and i have to make sure that all these devices nothing not everything is turned on because i'm maximizing my amps for this outlet and it's all safe and like i've got it all grounded and these incredible uh like protective equipment so nothing gets damaged at the same time i'm trying to figure out what exactly works yeah thanks travis i appreciate that uh that's what i kind of hope and i think that the more i do this it'll get better i think that i'll probably stick with this kind of theme of the jazzy music for a while relaxed chilled out uh yeah i know i do need another circuit but i don't want to do that i'm actually just renting my house that i'm in right now and i've been considering buying it but then at the same time i don't know that that's really what i want to do at this point uh because again if i was going to do something else and i had a different approach maybe i'd invest my money in a shop that had a better power set up or something you know uh thankfully the the see it's that's one of the tricky things is you try to find background music for videos and i don't really like a lot of it a lot of the jet i mean i pay extra for this website and some of the music on there's pretty good but for the most part it's like okay it's not great but this seems to be a good a good little genre that you're gonna have a variety to and you're not gonna um you know like it's not it's not something that everybody listens to all the time so if it's a little generic it's fine and i really like it too so thanks everybody for the compliments on the music and the stream uh today's three hours flew by yesterday felt like a little bit of a marathon but today's three hours went a lot faster and i really can't believe we've gone through now in the last two days i've done six hours of streaming so i definitely appreciate guys that i mean i've seen some of you here anybody who's been here so long um okay david r did ask about the 14 m2 similar to this model could i use the same cap kit used for this one i believe sorry that is getting way out of focus right there i believe that the cap kit for the m2 is slightly different than this one but it's not like overly different i need to put down like a little gizmo for the camera to focus on i wonder if it will do that like i wonder if it'll just focus on that thing and not jump around so much but it's all a test of things like on the stream uh i got a new camera right here that that i've been trying to use on film in the crt but you know it's so hard to get especially on live stuff to get like the focus to go right the lighting right like as i as i make the lighting right on the crt my facial lighting goes down it doesn't look as good uh and then so i've but the good thing is like i can click a bunch of lights here so i've been pretty preemptive in my thought pattern i'm really loving the way like this camera or this arm is working i'm loving the way the desktop camera mount is working i might need to get a more powerful pc eventually and put it in here or like take the editing pc and swap it for this one and that way i'll have a whole lot more powerful machine back here uh the main facial camera here is a sony a 5100 just a solid old camera do i like to play the original nest nest yes i do i uh see i'm losing that focus again i just don't have or i do have a nest yeah i have the nest over here let's see if we get that to like look any better i don't know if i can get that to zoom in like on the live not jump like it looks pretty good for a second um but yeah i do like the original nes of course all this stuff i like anything um you know retro it's just this is a this is an easier setup for me one that i use a lot is the super nintendo and uh the sega yeah the problem is it's like i don't these are like auto cameras you know so i would have to do that and i'd be sitting around here manually focusing these things so but you're probably right that's what i need to do the weird thing is is like this runs in external uh i'm really learning about it but let's see maybe we can play with it a little bit and uh it says it's in use let's try maybe i can try the to do some adjustments on it and we'll see if there's any settings color space color range see um the issue with this particular camera is let me check one more screen i may be able to turn it off once autofocus there we go okay let's try that maybe we can get it to turn off and i probably should have done that a long time ago but yeah see now it's probably gonna it's probably gonna look pretty good if it doesn't auto focus okay but it has trouble because the light bounces off the screen you know and it's just like the light from me on this side bounces off the screen it's not the easiest way to set up and then as the screen changes the the camera wants to shift its focus to something else just like anything that's why when you do the shots of this in the full dark you do it in the dark you turn the lights down on the crt and uh and that's how you shoot it or like the ways that john lenterman talked about in our interview oh do i have a little sound in there okay so yeah okay master safer thank you for the ten dollar super chat i really appreciate it this is thank you for the chill vibes and safer and shared wisdom as always steve oh you're welcome i appreciate it thank you yeah well that's right felipe whenever it like moves and stuff and see it's still even with autofocus off now it's it's got itself off focus it's still gonna do some for the focusing but yeah it doesn't it doesn't like the fact that everything's moving all the images are changing it's very difficult even you saw i just deactivated that and it didn't really helps a little bit but then it just starts going crazy again so i don't really know i'm trying i'm trying this one might be better now the 5100 maybe better to switch over through the capture card this that's what i'm using for it and it's like see it's just yeah but the the main point here is is more about the actual like servicing on the crt not so much watching like i say you can go watch digital foundry and john he's an expert on film and crt's he can uh he could do tutorials for days on that and and show everybody all the good secrets so so you have asked or jeff asked about uh the kv 1203 i'm not sure i remember that specific one uh 1204 fixing and i'm not sure what what exactly you were referring to is fixing it up like that you maybe see look at this now it's just like it gets out of focus wow it's fun with cameras right i wonder if there's any way no it doesn't like it at all it's like it's got to be focusing on something else besides it's got to pick something but it's it's always going to want to focus on something else on the crt as opposed to like something in front of it i don't know how to keep it preoccupied even you know no matter how close you get to it as long as the screen's changing a lot like it is it's going to have a difficult time it looks good like now and as soon as it goes into a transition it'll look bad i didn't see about that particular one i don't remember i'm sorry that that particular kv12 as i said the next uh the next big video that i'm gonna do i'm gonna i'll be doing live streams before then but i'm going to um i'm going to do a uh yeah i'm gonna do a video on rgb modding it'll be a 13 inch um yeah it's the filming crt setup it's it's like um you can get it set up good but then you're spending an hour setting it up and then my environment is a little bit difficult look like it seems like right now it's going it's going pretty good but see you can still when it transitions you can still see me my reflection and then now i've made it mess up and forget what it was doing ah rca true flat that's cool season salt i have a magnivox i think it is i was talking about it earlier philips magnivox true flat or something similar to that and i've got its 13 inches it's upstairs i'm i'm excited to mess with it a little bit it was a gift from bob retro rgb so yeah we're losing focus all right everybody look i really really appreciate you joining me this afternoon and uh i hope you all learned something or had some fun got to chill out this afternoon and enjoy our relaxing time together and thank you again if you want if you came to the stream late and you want to know what happened you can go back to the beginning it's been three hours and this is the whole block thankfully everything went successfully um if i get an opportunity i'll put out a notice and i'll do another stream and hopefully i can bring on keith rainy and we can go through and do some more calibration adjustments because i think this would be a good set after it being recapped and ready i think that'd be a good idea um to do that with him uh on on stream so thanks again everybody for showing up i really appreciate it have a wonderful holiday weekend and i will see you all next time on the next