Hi, I'm Ken Patterson, and the June What's Neat starts right now. The What's Neat show is sponsored by Caboose, sharing our passion for trains since 1938. This is What's Neat for June 2020. I'm your host, Ken Patterson, and this month we've got a great show, as always. First the show starts out with George Bugatuck from Soundtracks, showing us how he likes to put weight in HO scale locomotives just to add that much more pulling power to your models. And then, James Regere. He has created the most magnificent segment this month for us, where he's done all the editing himself. Good job, James. But what he shows us this month is an SD60M locomotive. This was a model, a ready to roll model, from Athern Trains, where he completely rebuilds the motor. I mean, the locomotive completely rebuilds everything. The lighting, the super details, all and about on the shell. He repowers it. He weights it. He does so many different things to this model. That's an absolutely fantastic segment to watch on What's Neat. Now, we've got a lot of shows coming up this summer, a lot of neat material, starting with scenery. I've never done actually a scenery segment on the show involving trees. And there are so many different ways to make trees, from the long, tall pine trees that we make from dowel rods to the simple sagebrush trees that we use from armatures or even just sticks in the yard to wire trees. Wire trees, which look so realistic, especially when you copy them from prototype photos. And of course, the wonderful super trees that you get from Scenic Express that turn out to be really nice when they scenic out a hill. We've also got a segment coming up on how to lay Garden Railroad Roadbed. That's a great mystery to a lot of people, but out in your garden, there's nothing more better than to have a train running around with a fountain or other entertainment on the patio. And I'm going to show you this summer how to lay cement roadbed for a permanent roadbed with no wobbling and no derailments. Also we're starting a project layout this summer, which will be an end scale. End scale is something that we don't do a lot of on the show, but I'm looking forward to building a layout that's manageable, something that would fit on a dining room table and easily be stored away. So with that, enjoy the rest of this month's June 2020 What's Neat. Hey guys, George here. And for this segment of What's Neat, we're going to show you a neat little way that you can use to add weight into your model after you've removed some weight for adding speakers. Now first off, what we're going to do is we're going to use this Athern SD40T-2.  Well now that a lot of manufacturers have been adding more and more detail to the models, one of the things they've done is they've added a plastic casing as the fuel tank and then that way you can add detail to allow much more detail on your model. Now one of the benefits of this is that these hollow sides of the fuel tank allow us to add a little bit of weight to get some attraction. So first we're going to take this model and there's a screw located right here on the bottom. So we're going to go ahead and remove that screw and take that and set that aside. Now we're simply going to pull the fuel tank out. Now underneath the bottom of the model here, you're going to see that it's the square flat side, but on the inside of the fuel tank you're going to notice that there's some space on the sides. So what we're going to do is we're simply going to take some Elmer's glue. We're going to put a little bit of Elmer's glue here on the inside. Now we're going to take our standard ledge shot. You can get this at any Sporting Goods store or Sporting Goods mega store like Best Pro Shops or anything like that. And we're just simply going to fill the side of this in and the glue is going to help hold the BBs in place. And you can maneuver this around and ultimately what you're going to want to do is you can add weight, but the biggest thing you want to pay attention to is you want to make sure that you don't go over this ridge right here along the side of the fuel tank because that's where the weight inside of here sets into the fuel tank. So you don't want to go above that. So when you're managing your ledge shot in here, just make sure to press down a little bit on each piece to make sure that it falls into place. So now that looks pretty good. So now we have a line of BBs or ledge shot in one side of the fuel tank here. And it's nice and flat and even. So now, of course, we can set it like this and let it dry. Now, once we're done with that, we can flip it over, do the other side and fill it in. Now, once those are both dry, you can take a product from A-Line Protopower West called multiple lead and you can go in and really fill in a little bit more if you just want that little extra bit of weight. Now, once you're done, of course, now you just simply put the fuel tank up on the underside, tightly screw it in place. And now you've got that extra weight added. So I hope this tip has helped you. And you can use this with not just Athern models, but other brands of manufactured models that are out there that use the plastic fuel tanks. So have fun and enjoy. And I hope this has helped. I'm James Regear. And for this segment of What's Neat, we're going to talk about a recent project that I did with an Athern ready to run GP60M, in which I rebuilt it from the trucks up, adding details, adding weight, and adding a new motor, as well as TCS wow sound and 21 LEDs. I was about 10 when the first GP60Ms arrived on the Santa Fe in 1990. A family friend who worked for the Santa Fe out of Hutchinson, Kansas, passed on company newsletters and posters to us. One poster in particular had a row of four GP60Ms, resplendent in super fleet warp on a paint parked side by side on tracks with light gray ballast underneath a sky of the sort of deep blue that one only finds in the Southwest. I was smitten. I convinced my dad to take me on an hour drive to Augusta, Kansas, to observe those beasts and their natural habitat on the Transcon. When visiting my grandparents in Newton, I would frequently walk down to the tracks camera in hand, especially when I thought I heard there at the time distinctive K3LA horn. They never looked better than they were pulling passenger equipment, especially the executive cars, as they did a Topeka railroad days in 1995, where I caught them returning from a fan excursion. Out of the box, the Athern GP60Ms capture the flagship appeal of the prototype very well. The colors are a good match to prototype silver and red, and the lines are crisp. All of the many warning labels, safety advisory signs, and ownership statements are sharp enough that one can read them under magnification. The model has see-through cue fans, which are a better fit to prototype than some of the other offerings out there. It has brass horns, wire grab irons, and durable acetate plastic handrails. The locomotive is DCC ready, with the option of either a six pin plug or a seven pin harness to accommodate the decoder very easily. Either option would require moving the dummy plug from the seven pin harness. However, this was not a premium model, so there are quite a few details that were left to the modeler. I thought a cabin terrier, windshield wipers, and mirrors would add life to it. And many models seem to be coming with lift rings these days. Looking at the fuel tank, I thought it could do with some filler caps, sight glasses, and plumbing, especially because of the high visibility of its silver paint, I thought the underbody could use filters and a bell. I wanted to replace nearly two-dimensional molded air tanks with three-dimensional detail parts. The pilot's demanded cut levers, hoses, and a couple of grab irons, in addition to the plow that was on the front of the unit, to begin with. Of course, no LED project of mine would be complete without adding a whole lot of LEDs. Now, this is definitely more than some of the projects that I've done, considering all the restructuring we're going to be doing. So let's go through a parts list before we go much further. Feel free to pause the video, write things down if you need to. The first step of this project is dismantling the locomotive. The shell was held to the chassis by the couplers. I removed the coupler screws and pulled the coupler boxes out through the openings in the pilots. The shell pulls right off to reveal the inside's locomotive. The locomotive was built with a motherboard with options to add DCC, either via 6-planned plug or via 9-pin JST harness. For a decoder such as the TCS Wow 101 we are using for this project, installation could be as simple as removing the dummy plug from the JST harness and replacing it with the decoder. We are doing much more with this locomotive, however, so we're going to proceed by taking the wire clips off the motherboard and dismantling the chassis completely. Setting aside the chassis for a moment, we can work on the locomotive shell. I use a pair of tweezer nose pliers to pull out the headlights by the wires. I set the wires aside for later use, cutting them off of the bulbs. Because the micro bulbs were glued in place, the process of pulling them out may break them, leaving remnants inside the headlight housing. Simply push those out with a screwdriver or other similarly sized object. Now the next step is to remove all the handrails from the locomotive, and for this step I use tweezer's pliers and an exacto knife very gently as a pry tool. The side handrails came free without much difficulty, but the handrails and stanchions on the pilots were another question. Now some breakage did occur, but that's not too big of a deal because these handrails actually come together fairly nicely later on with super glue. As I discovered, the anti-climbers were separately molded parts secured to the frame with glue. In the case of my locomotive, the front anti-climber separated from the rest of the body, which made accessing the ditch light housings actually easier. Using a very sharp exacto knife blade with the tip still intact, I gently worked out the lenses. Once the lenses were removed, I used a 1.16 inch drill bit to remount the headlight casing, making sure that there was no debris. I extended the cavity as far backwards as I could without breaching the rear wall of the ditch light housing. Then, locating the mounting pins for the ditch light housing on the anti-climber, I used the number 78 drill bit to drill up into the center of the pin and into the ditch light housing cavity to create a channel for the ditch light LED wiring. Setting aside the anti-climber and ditch light assembly, the next major step is to remove the cab from the rest of the body. The cab is a separately molded part mounted to the rest of the shell with a pin on the front and a clasp on the back. There's a little bit of adhesive used to hold the shell on, so using an exacto chisel blade, I worked my way around the separation lines, careful to break the glue bonds, while not nicking the plastic. After removing the cab, I set to work on the number boards. Having worked on a few Genesis locomotives, I thought the GP60M would be similarly configured with an actual number plate on top of the number board housing. After several attempts to pry the number plate loose, however, it became clear that the number boards were simply a molded part of the locomotive cab with the number stamped on. So using a number 68 drill, I drilled each corner of each number board through to the cab. I then used a sharp number 4 exacto blade to score between each hole, finally placing the blade inside each hole and providing gentle pressure to cut through and connect them. Using this method, I was able to create smooth matching rectangular openings for the number boards. I cleaned up the edges of the number board housings with a file, and then I cleaned up the bores in the headlight housing with a 1.16 inch bit, and then I set the cab aside. Returning to the trucks and gear towers, I set about dismantling them to give them an upgrade. The trucks on this locomotive were throwback from the blue box design, which fed current from the rail on the conductor's side directly into the frame. It fed the power from the rail on the engineer's side into a metal hook that was connected via clip and wire to the motherboard. Using my tweezers like a hammer claw, I pried the side frames off the trucks. I unclipped the plate at the bottom of the trucks releasing the wheel sets. Removing an additional clasp on the top of the trucks, I was able to open them up and remove the gears. Once the gears were removed, I used my rotary tool with a cutting disc to cut off the hook. I cleaned up the cut with a file after it was complete. The next step on the trucks was to attach wires to either side of the gear tower. Using Kessler 186 no clean flux, I prepared to solder wires to the forward most grommet. I found a larger wedge solder head combined with a higher temperature on my Weller WES D51 was the best combination for this job. Taking one of the wires saved from the headlights, I soldered it into the inside of the rivet, securing it. As an additional precaution, I used Gorilla superglue gel to secure the insulation of the wire to the leading edge of the metal plate. After giving the assembly time to cure, I swabbed it clean and applied Tamiya XF1 flat black paint to better obscure the metal truck tower sides and brass rivets. After giving the paint on the gear tower sides time to dry, I carefully cleaned the inner surfaces with a paper towel to make sure no metal shards remain before replacing the gears and reassembling. I coat the metal plate on top of the truck towers with silicone paint, which insulates them from the frame after reassembly. I repeat the same steps on the other truck and gear tower. With the truck assembled in its new configuration, let's compare it with the old one side by side. Using wired pickup for both rails should be more reliable than the contact pickup used by the original. While the step of isolating the frame from the trucks with silicone paint has all but eliminated any risk of shorts between coupled locomotives. The truck is somewhat lower profile without the hook and it now requires only one bay on the frame for the gear tower. The other bay can be given over to added weight, an important factor as we attempt to bring the locomotives overall weight up from its original 12 ounces from the factory to 60 ounces or more. Moving to the long hood, let's set about drilling holes for the courtesy lights. We'll start by using a number 63 drill to bore a hole for a courtesy light along the walk way on the conductor's side just behind the step. Once the hole is through, I countersink it inside with about 20 turns of a number 52 or 116 inch drill bit. This should provide a countersink deep enough to nest an 0402 warm white LED so that it's flush with the side of the locomotive. When countersinking, one must always take care not to go all the way through the wall, however. Moving to the rear end of the shell, find the courtesy lights toward the bottom. They should be two slots. I used a number 76 drill bit, carefully found the ends of the courtesy light slots and drilled into each end of those slots. Then I used a fresh number 4 X-Acto blade as a wedge to connect the holes and to make actual slots to them that went all the way through the locomotive shell. I carefully widened and carved the slots to the right width and made sure that they were uniform rectangles. Then I used my number 52 drill bit to countersink the two courtesy light openings on the inside of the locomotive. The last step of this process was to paint the countersink since rounding areas of the shell black. A toothpick will do an adequate job for this part. The main idea is to make sure that the shell around the courtesy lights does not glow. Once the courtesy light housings were taken care of, it was time to work on detailing the rest of the locomotive shell. An in-depth photo album, the ATSF 135 posted on qstation.org by Eric Goodman provided all the answers for detail placement. I started by placing and drilling lift ring holes on the top of the locomotive with a number 78 bit. I laid a line of masking tape across the dustbin cover and drilled a hole on each side toward the front. I carefully removed the fans from the shell pushing up on the pins from the bottom to avoid breaking them. I then laid out the masking tape in a grid to help determine where the lift rings would need to go. Moving down on the shell, I laid masking tape across the free-flowing air duct to put two holes for a grab iron that would run across the duct near the top. Using my exacto knife blade, I carefully scored and cut off the molded on air tanks on the bottom of the shell, and those I replaced with air tanks from Canon and company, since the three-dimensional tanks looked better from various angles. A little Tamiya XF-16 flat aluminum and those tanks were finished. Finally, I drilled two holes immediately underneath the anti-climber to accommodate the wires from the ditch lights. Moving to the cab, I carefully drilled two holes above each windshield and one above each rear cab window to accommodate windshield wipers. I removed the windshields by carefully prying with my exacto knife chisel blade. Then, using a scrap styrene, I set about making backings for the number board pockets. I used a pair of wire snips for the task, cutting blanks that were slightly larger than the opening, and then honing them and trimming to accommodate the contours of the cab. I found a stainless steel carpenter's protractor helpful for this task. I set the styrene in place with plastruct bondine. After the bondine had set, I covered any areas of daylight with Tamiya putty. When the putty had set, I painted the inside of the number board box black. Back on the hood, I then began installing lift rings into the holes I had drilled. The rings are photo etched stainless steel from KV models, and I find that cutting them off the sprue over a magnet actually helps reduce part loss significantly, because they collect on the magnet. I used a non-magnetic curved jeweler's tweezers for applying the rings to the body, for stepping their ends in gorilla super glue, then inserting them into number 78 holes. I returned to work on detailing the frame of the locomotive, adding fuel filler tubes, sight glasses, and some plumbing. For the most part, I used a kit from Canon and company, but I chose to bend some brass rods to substitute for the plastic plumbing, since brass is much more durable. A splash of silver paint and some red highlights, and this detail job is complete. With this, it was time to have fun and get a little bit crazy. From the factory, the model weighed in about 12 ounces, well below my preference of 16. And the Kato HM5 motor and flywheel set were nearly one ounce lighter than the athern. Now the two bays that the truck modification left open were an obvious option for adding weight, and it turned out the weights I used were the right width for the gap, but the number of segments to use was a little bit challenging. In order for both ends of the weight to rest in the frame, I would have to use more than one segment. However, I could not be wider than the truck mount spanner, because the shell would still have to fit over it. I measured the width of the gap with the caliper and transferred it to a chopper, gambling that the steel blade would be able to handle a lead weight, since lead is relatively soft metal versus the steel. And I chopped two weights the same length for the front and back of the frame. In order to accommodate the clip for the gear tower and to give the truck its full turning radius, I made sure that I tapered off the weight closest to the truck mount. Now I also grooved out an accommodation for the U-joint, which actually hangs down fairly low from the rest of the shaft. Comparing the chassis of the GP60M to that of Akado GP35, which I am much more used to working with, I found a couple more places where I could potentially add weights vertically, which I also secured with superglue, making sure that they were going straight up, because again we have to fit the shell over the weights. I also wanted to replace the original athern motor with a Akado HM5. For simplicity, the motor I chose came with flywheels and motor mounts. Now the spacing on the mounts on the Akado motor matches the mounting holes in the athern frame very well, and a test fit revealed that a flywheel was at the right height for a good shaft alignment with the truck tower. Although the spacing between the mounting and holes matched, there was so much empty space underneath the motor, and it's saddle that was begging to be filled with weight. Multiple lead weights from A-line seemed to be a good answer for this problem. The weights are putty-like in form, and one can form them like clay to fit any space. I first formed them into a rough shape, then inserted the motor and tamped the weight into a more precise fit with a screwdriver. Not only this add weight to the locomotive, but the weights actually served as a firmer foundation for the motor itself. Of course lead is a harmful substance, so I was sure to coat all of the weights with silicone paint after the glue had cured in order to seal them. With the frame drying, I started making final preparations for adding LEDs. Measuring the depth of the headlight holes compared with the ditch light housings, I decided if I blocked the headlights off at the back with siren, I could create headlight housings that would be roughly the same size. The potential benefit of this would be I could achieve brighter headlights, since there would be no light loss from shrink tubing, and the amount of clear acrylic for the lens, which also absorbs light, would be minimal. In order to accommodate the wires, I had to drill number 78 holes through the back of each headlight. I used a Molotov chrome pen to coat the insides of the number board housings, the ditch lights, the headlights, and the courtesy lights. Molotov chrome paint gives a realistic and highly reflective surface that helps concentrate and intensify light sources, while at the same time providing another layer to help prevent that dreaded shell glow. I also drilled number 78 holes at the top of the steps immediately underneath the walkway overhangs to accommodate wires for the step lights. In order to route the ditch lights up into the shell, I drilled two additional holes into the front of the shell just behind the hole where the cab mounting pins will rest. With that, it was time to start assembling LEDs. Assembly of the LEDs was fairly standard procedure.  I soldered blue magnet wire for the anode, green for the cathode. I tried to follow the precaution of giving myself a little more wire than I thought I needed, and made sure to coat each assembly with silicone paint before installation. I did the ditch light LEDs first, since the procedure for them was a little bit different. Whenever possible, if I'm working with a headlight housing, I like to have the wires exit out the back because straight lines are relatively easy to string. In the case of the ditch lights, I chose to route the wire into the chamber through a number 78 hole I drilled into the mounting pins. This meant that installing an assembled LED would require routing it 90 degrees into a tiny hole in the back of a narrow housing. Impossible. I had to first string the wire through the channel and into the back of the assembly, where I could reach in with a fine set of tweezers and pull the leads out of the front with enough lead of both wires to solder the LED. Once the silicone paint had cured on the assembly, I could pull the LEDs back into their housing. I then secured the anti-climber LED assembly to the front of the locomotive shell with gorilla glue. I strung the wires back through the pilot and up through the walkway into what would be covered by the locomotive's white nose. The rest of the LEDs were somewhat simpler. I could assemble the LEDs as usual, twist the wires for added durability before installing. I did the cab first, feeding the wires into the number 78 holes in the back of the headlight housings, then pulling them out of the other end with my tweezers until the LEDs were snug in place. I twisted and soldered the light-colored wires together, adding a one kilo ohm resistor to the blue anode. Once the ditch light and front headlight LEDs were in place, I set about making lenses. I cut a manageable length of Plastruct 116th inch acrylic rod and put it in the chuck of my drill. I then used the drill to grind it against the taper file to create a convex lens, which I honed using progressively finer sandpaper, ending at about 2000 grit. I cut off the rod almost immediately behind the lens and sanded the back edge smooth and inserted it into the front of the headlight and ditch light casings. While the ultra short lens has graded intensifying light with minimal loss, it also provides very little material to get a grip on, which can be a nuisance for sanding or for mounting. The number board housings took three LEDs each, with the wires fed through three number 78 holes in the back panel. The procedure was very much the same as for the headlights, in which I pushed the wires through, pulled them out the back, and then twisted and soldered light-colored wires together. Though in this case, instead of a one kilo ohm resistor, I used a 20 kilo ohm resistor on the blue anode wire for a much dimmer LED glow. I have taken to using high levels of resistance for dimming instead of the decoder's pulse width modulation, partially because it does not provide a blinking effect on video, but also because it seems to provide a nicer warm white. Once I completed the work on the number board lights, I used silicone paint to paste the wires and shrink tubing to the ceiling of the cap, sending the wire leads out the back. When the silicone had cured, I painted the ceiling with a deck tan that roughly matched the color of the Kato cab interior that I'd selected for this model. I highlighted some of the details of the cab interior with paint before I fed it into the cab, securing it with micro crystal clear. Once the cab interior was in, I made the cab back to the frame and proceeded with wire routing. I twisted and soldered the blue wires from the headlights and ditch lights together to become a function common and routed them along with the green wires along the underside of the cab interior and up the back. I twisted and soldered the blue wire from the number board to the function common and routed the function common and three function wires toward the dynamic brake opening. I cut five quarter inch pieces of 0.8 millimeter shrink tubing and I lined them up side by side and super glued them to the underside of the exhaust. Working in the rear of the locomotive, I cut styrene to use as sound baffles to place underneath the radiator and dynamic brake fans. I then installed the rear headlights following the same procedure as for the front. I put one LED into each courtesy light housing with the face toward the exterior securing them with micro crystal clear. I routed the wires to the locomotive ceiling. I then proceeded the step lights where I inserted the LED wires into the holes I had drilled at the top of the steps and pulled them snug making sure that the lights were facing down. I secured them with a dot of micro crystal clear. Because the hole mounts were working so well to secure the step lights, I wanted to do something similar with the ground lights. I drilled two additional holes in the locomotive shell underneath the cab and just behind the jack points. I threaded the wires for the ground light LEDs through these holes and then secured the ground light LEDs to the side of the locomotive just in front of the jack points. Starting on the engineer side, I routed the wires from the front step lights backwards to meet the ground lights where I twisted and soldered light colors attempting to stagger the joints so that any exposed wires would not contact each other. I coated the joints with silicone paint which I also used to secure the wires to the underside of the walkway. After soldering the rear step light into the chain, I repeated the same step on the other side of the locomotive and then I routed the wires up into the shell where I joined the two sides of the locomotive together along with the courtesy lights that we had previously done. I then affixed a 10 kilo ohm resistor to the blue anode wire which would give them a bit brighter tone than the number boards but still would not give them bright enough tone to be confused with headlights. I affixed a quarter inch piece of 0.8 millimeter shrink tubing just behind the dynamic brake opening and then I twisted and soldered the two blue wires coming from the rear of the locomotive to form a function common that I transferred to the front of the locomotive along with the lead from the rear headlight. I used silicone paint to secure the two wires to the side of the locomotive for routing them up to the front. With the magnet wires routed and secured to the tops and sides of the locomotive, it was time to prepare the shell for mating to the frame. I made sure that all blue wires were mated together. I then soldered the magnet wires into colored 30 AWG pieces of wire each about two inches long. For the wires in front of the locomotive, I used green for the lead for the ditch lights, blue for the lead from the function common, white for the lead from the front headlights, yellow for the lead from the reverse headlights, and purple for the lead from the number boards. I secured and isolated each solder joint with 0.8 millimeter shrink tubing. Once it had shrunk, I threaded the wire through the shrink tubing that I mounted to the ceiling earlier. From the engineer's side, the order was green, blue, white, yellow, purple. Maintaining that order, I soldered the wires onto the female ends of a set of five sip pins. I soldered the lead from the courtesy and ground lights to a brown wire insulated with shrink tubing and fed it through the ceiling mounted shrink tube on the back of the locomotive. I soldered the brown wire onto the female end of a two sip pin set, two because I find that connective strength is better with more than one sip pin. The shell was now ready for mating to the chassis. On the chassis again, I prepared the motor for mounting, cutting off the copper straps and replacing them with the orange and gray wires for polarity, and gray is of course the negative and orange is positive, assuming the locomotive is moving forward. In mounting the motor, I discovered the heads of the screws I was wanting to use for the motor were a little bit too small for the athern motor mount holes, so I made washers out of styrene and threaded them through and that seemed to solve the problem. With the motor mounted, I quickly put in the trucks and the driveshafts. Today's install, I am using a TCSW-101 which uses a seven pin wire harness. The major advantage of using a seven pin wire harness decoder instead of a motherboard with 21 pin decoder configuration is that you can use the space a motherboard might have occupied to add more weight. I discovered I could use a seven segment, one and three quarter ounce strip of lead weight on top of the motor with the ends still above the flywheels. I removed the weight's adhesive backing because I did not want its thickness, and I wrapped it in electrical tape, both for isolation and for encasement. I cut two six zip pin sets and mounted them on the ends of the weight, nail ends facing toward the center. I connected the outer pins of the two sets with black wire. I soldered red and black wire leads to the front zip pin sets, and these would be going to the decoder. I secured the sets with another round of electrical tape and mounted the weight to the motor with double-sided foam tape. I soldered the pairs of zip pins to each truck wire and plugged them in. I then soldered the red, orange, gray and black wires of the seven pin decoder harness to the motor and truck power leads, being sure to cut out and set aside any excess wire. The final step was to attach the purple, yellow, white, blue and green wires from the harness onto the male ends of a five-zip pin set. The next step is to strap the decoder and keep alive to the weight assembly with captain tape, and then we'll get the speaker. Now I'm trying a speaker baffle I found on Thingiverse, modified in Blender and printed on my Dremel 3D printer. It has accommodations for 315 by 11 millimeter micro speakers. I fit the speakers into the baffle with the foil facing toward the inside of it, and then I wire them in series. I attach one purple wire from the decoder to each end of the assembly and secure the speaker assembly to the weights with captain tape so it will fire down through the rear truck well. The final step before reassembling the locomotive were some final details on the pilot. I drilled four number 78 holes across the top of each pilot to accommodate cut levers. I drilled number 63 holes into the pilot to accommodate MU hoses. I used 30 AWG single strand wire for this and the MU cable detail assembly from Details West. I made four i-loops for each pilot from Tichitrain's phosphor bronze wire and bent cut levers from the same. I also used that phosphor bronze wire to bend into grab irons for the free-flowing air duct, the rear pilot, and for the plow. I installed mirrors and windshield wipers, and finally for the number boards I measured the openings, used a computer graphics program to design them and printed them on regular paper. I glued them face down onto acetate plastic packing material, which I cut to size and installed into the openings with micro crystal clear. And with that I mounted the shell onto the chassis, reinstalling the couplers and handrails. The model was complete and ready for programming, testing, and running. Now she's got TCS wow sound under the hood along with 18 ounces of weight and she's raring to go with her 21 leds for your layout. That was this segment of What Sneat and I hope you enjoyed it. Hope you learned something and we'll see you next time. All of the model railroad products seen in this episode of What Sneat are available through Caboose in Lakewood, Colorado, or order online at mikeboose.com.