to delve into the genesis of Zionism, a movement that has significantly shaped the course of modern history. The birth of Zionism dates back to the late 19th century, amid the social, political, and economic turmoil of Europe. It was a time when Jewish communities across the continent faced escalating antisemitism and a growing sense of alienation. This atmosphere of intolerance and hostility sparked the desire for a Jewish homeland, a safe haven where Jews could live free from persecution. Enter Theodore Herzl, an Austro-Hungarian journalist and playwright. Herzl is widely recognized as the founder of modern political Zionism. His vision was inspired by the harsh reality of the Dreyfus Affair in France, a notorious case of antisemitism that shocked the world. Herzl was deeply moved by the plight of Captain Alfred Dreyfus, a Jewish officer wrongfully accused of treason, solely because of his faith. This incident reinforced Herzl's belief in the urgent need for a Jewish state. Herzl's dream was rooted in more than just a desire for safety. He envisioned a state that would not only provide refuge for Jews, but also serve as a beacon of enlightenment and progress. His ideas were outlined in his book, Der Judenstadt, or The Jewish State, published in 1896. Theodore Herzl's vision ignited a flame that resonated with Jews worldwide. His ideas, however, were not without opposition. Some viewed Zionism as a radical departure from traditional Jewish values, while others saw it as a necessary response to an increasingly hostile world. Zionism's birth was a complex interplay of historical, political, and social factors. It was a movement born out of necessity, fueled by the passion for freedom and driven by the dream of a homeland where Jews could live without fear. This dream was to have profound implications, shaping the course of history in ways that Herzl himself could hardly have imagined. Thus, Zionism was born out of a desperate need for a safe haven, a place where Jews could live free from persecution. This marked the beginning of a journey, a journey that would lead to the creation of a nation and the unfolding of a narrative that continues to shape our world today. The path to Zionism's realization was paved with significant milestones, one of which was the Balfour Declaration. This key document emerged in November of 1917 at the height of the First World War. Arthur James Balfour, the British Foreign Secretary at the time, penned a letter to Lord Rothschild, a leading figure in the British Jewish community. The letter, eventually known as the Balfour Declaration, expressed the British government's support for the establishment of a national home for the Jewish people in Palestine. This was a breakthrough for the Zionist movement, for it was the first time a major world power had publicly endorsed their cause. The Balfour Declaration didn't just provide a symbolic boost, it had tangible implications. It paved the way for the British mandate of Palestine, under which the groundwork for a Jewish state was laid. It also ignited conversations around the world about the legitimacy and feasibility of a Jewish homeland. The Balfour Declaration marked a turning point, cementing the Zionist dream into the annals of global politics. In 1948, the Zionist dream was realized with the creation of Israel, but not without controversy. The establishment of the state of Israel was a culmination of years of struggle, hope, and a desperate need for a safe haven for the Jewish people. In the aftermath of World War II, the world was left horrified by the atrocities of the Holocaust. Six million Jews were systematically murdered by the Nazis, and the survivors were left displaced and traumatized. The need for a Jewish homeland had never been more apparent. During this time, the British mandate for Palestine was crumbling under the weight of increasing Jewish immigration and the escalating conflict between Jews and Arabs. The United Nations, a newly formed international body, stepped in to address the crisis. In November 1947, the UN General Assembly passed Resolution 181, recommending the partition of Palestine into separate Jewish and Arab states. Jerusalem, due to its religious significance, was to be placed under international administration. The Jewish agency, led by David Ben-Gurion, accepted the partition plan. However, the Arab League and Palestinian Arabs vehemently rejected it. This led to a period of civil war, followed by the 1948 Arab-Israeli War, which erupted following Israel's Declaration of Independence in May 1948. Despite being outnumbered, the newly formed Israeli Defense Forces managed to hold their ground, and even expanded their territory. The war ended in 1949 with armistice agreements between Israel and neighboring Egypt, Lebanon, Jordan, and Syria. The state of Israel was a reality. However, the birth of Israel was accompanied by a massive displacement of people. Jews from Arab and Muslim countries migrated to Israel, while hundreds of thousands of Palestinian Arabs fled or were expelled from their homes. This displacement, known as the Nakba or the catastrophe in Arabic, is a contentious issue that fuels the conflict to this day. The creation of Israel not only affirmed the Zionist vision, but also ignited a series of conflicts that continue to this day. The story of Israel's creation is a tale of triumph and tragedy, a testament to the resilience of the Jewish people, and a reminder of the complexities of the Middle East conflict. Fast forward to the present day, and Zionism remains a contentious issue. In today's landscape, the perception of Zionism varies greatly. There are those who view it as an inspiring liberation movement, while others see it as a form of colonialism, or even racism. This disparity of views has led to heated debates and in some cases, deep divisions, not only in the Middle East, but also across the globe. In Israel, Zionism has significantly shaped the political scene. Many of the country's political parties identify as Zionist, though they interpret and apply the ideology in different ways. For some, Zionism is about preserving and promoting Jewish culture, history, and identity. For others, it's about ensuring Israel's security and sovereignty in a region where it often feels under threat. What's undeniable is that Zionism has been a key factor in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. The establishment of Israel as a Jewish state in a land also claimed by Palestinians has led to decades of tension, violence, and failed peace negotiations. Zionism's call for a Jewish homeland has been met with resistance by Palestinians who see the same land as their rightful home. It's important to note, however, that this conflict is not simply a clash between Zionism and Palestinian nationalism. It's a complex web of historical, political, and religious issues, with Zionism being just one thread in the tapestry. The Israeli-Palestinian conflict is not just about land and borders, but also about identity, justice, and the right to self-determination. In recent years, calls for a two-state solution where both Israelis and Palestinians can have their own independent nations have dominated the discourse. But the road to such a solution is fraught with obstacles, and the vision of Zionism as a peaceful Jewish homeland coexisting alongside a Palestinian state remains elusive. Zionism, once a dream of a homeland, now sits at the heart of one of the world's most complex conflicts. It's a reminder that dreams, however noble or inspiring, can sometimes become contentious when they intersect with the dreams of others. Zionism's role in the ongoing Israeli-Palestinian conflict is multifaceted and deeply rooted in history. This political ideology, born in the late 19th century, has been a driving force in the formation of the modern state of Israel and continues to influence the region's dynamics. Israel's establishment in 1948 was seen by Zionists as the fulfillment of a historic promise, the return to a Jewish homeland after millennia of diaspora. However, this event also marked the beginning of a complex conflict with the indigenous Palestinian population, leading to a series of wars, intifadas, and ongoing struggles. The Zionist perspective has significantly shaped Israel's policies toward settlements. The idea of a Jewish homeland is often used to justify the expansion of Jewish settlements in the West Bank and East Jerusalem, areas that are considered by international law as occupied territories. These settlements have been a major point of contention, as they have not only changed the region's demographics, but also complicated the peace process by fragmenting the potential territory of a future Palestinian state. Borders have also been a critical issue in the conflict. The Zionist vision of a Jewish state from the Jordan River to the Mediterranean Sea contrasts with the Palestinian aspiration for a sovereign state within the pre-1967 borders, including the West Bank, Gaza Strip, and East Jerusalem. Statehood is another aspect where Zionism plays a significant role. The Zionist goal of a Jewish state has been realized with the establishment of Israel. However, the Palestinian claim for statehood has been hindered by the ongoing conflict and the lack of an agreed upon resolution. Zionism, therefore, is not just a historical concept, but a living ideology that continues to influence the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. Its impact is seen in the ongoing disputes over settlements, borders, and statehood, as well as in the broader question of identity and belonging in a land claimed by two peoples. Zionism, a powerful force in shaping the region, continues to fuel the flames of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. Looking back, we see a journey from a dream to a state, from an ideology to a cause of conflict. Starting as a vision for a safe homeland for Jewish people, Zionism transformed into a political movement, eventually culminating in the creation of the state of Israel. The Balfour Declaration played a pivotal role, endorsing the establishment of a national home for Jewish people in Palestine. But the dream came with its share of complexities. The creation of Israel ignited decades of conflict with Zionism at the heart, as land, rights, and national identities are contested fiercely. Today, Zionism continues to be a significant player in the ongoing strife, influencing geopolitical relationships and fueling debates about justice, peace, and the right to self-determination. As we continue to witness the unfolding of history, the role of Zionism in shaping the future remains a thought-provoking question. The narrative of Zionism is not just about the past, but also about the paths we choose for the future.


The student-teacher relationship has been central to learning since Socrates and Plato. These early Greek philosophers sought to challenge their students' thinking on a range of life experiences. What is true happiness? Should people care more about doing the right thing or doing things right? To what extent do you shape your own destiny and how much is down to fate? There are no right answers to questions like these. This means that the questioner and the respondent often need to engage in extensive exchanges, where they ask each other questions in order to develop clear understandings of the topic they are discussing. Unfortunately, in many classrooms, teacher and student exchanges are often limited to teachers seeking the correct response to a no-one-answer question, to which students respond often with minimal elaboration. Finally, the teacher provides feedback in the form of a brief evaluation such as, that's right. These types of exchanges are commonly referred to as IRE. This very common form of interaction tends to be used in classrooms, where the teacher controls the channels of communication while the students remain as passive recipients of the information transmitted. In recent times, many teachers have shifted away from this model in response to research on student-centred classrooms. The benefits students derive from being actively involved in their own learning, where they learn to ask questions, challenge ideas, and make suggestions in an environment that is supportive of these endeavours, has been extensively researched and is very well documented. Philosophy for Children is an example of an approach that challenges and disrupts traditional classroom talk dynamics. P4C has been employed with great success at a number of schools and across a variety of age groups. Philosophy for Children, inquiry-based learning, offers a way to open up children's learning through inquiry and the exploration of ideas. Children learn that their ideas have value, and that the ideas of other children have value too. Through Philosophy for Children, they realise that they don't always have to be right, but they gain the confidence to ask questions and learn through discussion.


Welcome to this video manuscript for the journal, Clinical Anatomy, titled Google Glass, Ultrasound and Palpatian, The Anatomy Teacher of the Future. My name is Dr. Brian Beninger. I'm a professor and the executive director of the Medical Anatomy Center at Count Northwest here in Lebanon, Oregon, which is part of Western University of Health Sciences. And on my left here is our volunteer patient, Alex Verzheimer. The objective of this study was to demonstrate the integration of glass, which I currently have on. Images generated from a novel ultrasound finger probe, which I'm currently wearing on my index finger, that is connected with a Fukuda Denshi ultrasound system, during palpatian to see if surface anatomy and both static and dynamic stereo structural anatomy could be identified and learned by a first year anatomy student. Viewers will know that the majority of anatomy courses taught today at medical and dental schools consist of didactic lectures, and if fortunate include human dissection lab. The didactic aspect often requires memorizing enormous numbers of tables and lists and words from PowerPoints and in the lab identifying a single structure with its intimate structures, often or abnormally moved away or removed, accompanied by a first order question. Surface and imaging anatomy is at best briefly taught and is not the predominant focus. However, upon completing the course, all of us know and realize that the students will be exposed to their patient's surface anatomy and often their imaging. Few will get to appreciate anatomy during surgical procedures. Therefore, there appears to be a need for technology to bring in the anatomy teacher of the future, at least from the point of view of highlighting surface and the imaging anatomy. As part of the lab experience, this research is investigating if the dissection experience could project into learning static and dynamic sterostructural anatomy as seen in ultrasound imaging, which I and others believe is the visual sethoscope into the human body. So before demonstrating the Novel Sonic Eye Finger Probe, I would like to do a comparison with the Classic Probe. In both instances, the image generated will come into the glass. In this particular one, what I would like to reveal and show people is that once you place the probe on, one of the problems is that there is gel here, and this is not a flat surface, it's a contour to the shoulder. And so I have to generate a type of tripod or a base with my hand here. If there's gel on here, sometimes that creates a slippery foot plate because you're trying to find the ideal position. One of the things we had talked about is once you find this position, you often will have the machine sitting here in a position such as this because you have to be able to get to it. And in order to get to it, what happens is I will then lean over both myself and the patient will be watching. Therefore, it comes across as if I'm actually treating the screen, I don't have the opportunity to view the patient without wearing the glass. With the glass, I can now do this, watch the patient, but the problem is that this is really quite, it moves a lot. It takes a lot of probe time to get really good at this. However, with the finger probe, one can actually place the finger probe on and get a base here. And besides the palpation, they can actually solid base so I can then turn and move and shut things off or create an image and save it or a video, etc. So that's one of the benefits of using the finger probe over the classic probe for the novice learner. This novel sonic eye finger probe allows for simultaneous feedback from one surface and palpation anatomy to stereo structural anatomy from the ultrasound image generated in the glass and three, observing the patient's reaction during physical movements. By coined and created the term and technique triple feedback, which essentially combines old school palpation and observation skills with modern technology to dynamically view the stereo structural anatomy deep to the region being palpated. This allows the examiner to recognize crepitus and other pathological signs associated with movement during imaging. One can ask the patient to move into internal and external rotations and here we can see the patient grimacing during external rotation while viewing the supraspinatus tendon. The triple feedback technique would teach surface, stereo structural and imaging anatomy as the anatomy teacher of the future while bringing the patient and the physician in contact with each other as well as diminishing wasted time associated with visits to healthcare facilities. Okay, in conclusion, this day revealed that students adopted quickly to the technology that I might add with enthusiasm and successfully identified structures stereoscopically both in a static and dynamic attitude demonstrating that regarding imaging and surface anatomy this could be the anatomy teacher of the future which would compliment the lab dissection experience. Thank you very much.


Hi you guys, welcome to another First Impression Friday where I review an entire collection of sewing patterns today, a long time coming. We are finally going to be looking at Allie Olsen's collection. Some of you that may have been sewing for a while might remember a website called Indy Sew where it was like a marketplace for all kinds of indie patterns. Indy pattern brands Allie was the brains behind that and I remember whenever she had to shut that down it was devastating because that was such a reliable resource for any and all Indy Sewing patterns. She always made samples so you could see what they looked like. She only added like the best of the best so you knew what you were ordering from them was going to like come together nicely but in closing down Indy Sew she was really able to kind of focus on her pattern designs which was kind of a relatively newer thing for her back then. She's got I don't know maybe 10, 12 patterns at this point but before we get into those I want to show you just how much of a resource her website is because she comes from that background of like you know being a resource for Sewist and so she kind of combined those two in a way. So first things first she's got this thing called fabric files. If you are trying to learn about fabrics this is a great place for you to go. That would not so much but she does have tips for sewing with bulky knit fabrics. I actually use some of these tips now consistently on my serger and then some information on fabric weight but then you get into like each type of fabric. So if you're curious about what French Terry is like you can go to this blog post and it's broken down into like kind of like a very scientific thorough breakdown of each fabric. So we've got the characteristics we've got how to sew with it we've got how to care for it how to buy it and what kind of garments you can make from French Terry. Now you can't obviously feel the French Terry which I know is so important for so many of you that are trying to learn how to sew or how to like learn about fabrication but this will get you very close maybe buy a sample from fabric.com and you know touch and feel it while you are reading through the blog. So she's got four pages of those all kinds of different fabrics and we talked about Allie a little bit she is a very like sustainably kind of conscious person which I love. This was a section that I thought was super interesting okay so she has this little getting back section where she says that they donate five percent of all net profits to the charity of their choice and she's very transparent about where they have donated. So that is all really nice and lovely right but once you get down into the nitty gritty of it you can see that in May and June of 2022 she had no profit at all so she was not able to donate anything and I think it is just so enlightening for a small business owner to indicate all the months where they were profitless. I think we assume that especially I don't know maybe but it's because it's Allie and she's been in business for so long and her aesthetic is so clean and polished you just assume she's like killing it right so it was so interesting to me to see that you know for two months she literally didn't make a penny.  So with all of that said I want to start looking at the sewing patterns now you can see here she has them broken down into digital sewing patterns the ones that are available in paper which we are not going to cover and then the curvy sewing patterns which I think will be indicated as we go through here but if you only want to shop curvy you can just click this which I think is really nice and it's sort of a mental thing when you are a curvy person and you're trying to buy anything going seeing a pattern and you're like oh my god I love that pattern and then realizing they don't have it in your size is such a bummer so I love that she has this where you just click on this and you know what is available in your size and that's it. All right so starting off with her digital pattern collection so first up we have the Kila Tank and actually I want to point out something too I also really love how you have the like beautiful photography right which a lot of indie sewing pattern companies are known for but when you roll over the photo you get the line drawing which instantly gives you the technical details of the pattern you know exactly what you're getting yourself into before you even click on the listing I love that that is such an excellent detail. All right so she has digital sewing pattern sizes 0 to 30 BND cup or the paper pattern. The Kila Tank sewing pattern is a fitted tank top designed for stretchy knit fabrics a slight racer back design gives this top a sporty look Kila's deep scoop neckline and arm holes are finished with a bulk free binding method that mimics ready-to-wear techniques. The Kila Tank has several inches of negative ease making it a great basic layering tank top super fitted so your fabric is going to need to be stretchy. Kila can be tucked in to high waist pants or skirts because it's sewn in super stretchy fabric it's also great workout or pajama top for hot weather. Okay great all right pattern details which she's already gone over a lot of that so we've got the sizing these are the different files that you'll get it includes tiled coffee shop and a US coffee shop which that's interesting I've never I don't know that I've never seen that but that's not usual I wonder what the difference between the two is but no projector file. Paper pattern is this quarter inch seam allowances are included which is a little scant for a tank top but it certainly will help you with getting this sewn with very little fabric step-by-step instructions well suited for the beginner sewage who has some experience sewing with stretchy knit fabrics. The fabric knit fabrics with at least 60 percent stretch and good recovery are recommended using a knit fabric if using a knit fabric with less I think that must be like a typo okay cotton spandex and round spandex blend rib knit are ideal yeah for sure a rib knit five to nine ounces 100% cotton knit fabrics are not recommended due to poor recovery I love that she says that um I also think like just kind of super dreary well I guess I'm talking about like the bamboo rayons of it all like that's probably not what you're going to want to make this tank top out of all right let's look at some of the photos here we go so these are our line drawings you can see exactly what she explained this light racer bat going on here a deep scoop and a very skinny little strap and then here are maybe some of her tester makes or I don't know maybe she makes her own samples I could see her doing that too because these are all really beautiful pictures right great classic tank top but she has really sort of elevated it in a way and it feels very expensive looking that's what the paper patterns look like and then back to the beginning okay so this is our size chart and finish garment measurements for the b cup and the d cup so we are somewhere between for a size zero we've got 30 inches in well let's go full bus we've got 32 inches in the full bust up to 57 and a half 32 to 57 and a half in the full bust that feels I mean I know that the the size inclusive like truest of it all love to have a like up to 60 inches so she's very very very close to being like fully fully all inclusive where everybody can make this garment I think it gets tricky for them because when they go up the two sizes she would need for that I think it would require a fifth block and I think that those blocks are expensive to to create I don't I'm not entirely sure how that works maybe I you know what maybe I can reach out to some pattern designer friends and ask them how like what's stopping them from going to like size 400 for example you know what I mean okay finished like she said tons of negative ease so the full bust is 26 inches so that is a good six inches of negative ease so you definitely have to have a super stretchy fabric for that but your fabric requirements only go up to two yards depending on what size you're making so a great little stash buster here um and a cute little basic I love a basic no twist here but you know sometimes you the others like maybe your skirt has a twist a basic with a twist so you want to keep your top basic all right this is the Highlands wrap dress this definitely made its rounds um through the instagram sewing community a lot of people were making this and I saw some really really good versions of it no one really jumped out at me as being like you know this is atrocious so that's promising because I have seen that before where it's like consistently everyone who's posting I'm like does not everyone does not see does everyone not see the errors that I see in this pattern is it just me um so yeah this one seems to be pretty consistently good amongst all sizes and also abilities the Highlands wrap dress is a woven dress with a faced v neckline elasticized back waistband and waist ties both the midi and the maxi length feature a side slit that begins above the knee and is finished in a wide mitered hem all right included in this sewing pattern is the option for bicep length sleeves or a sleeveless bodice with armhole basings um as of last year both the b and d cup size ranges of this pattern have been combined into one product oh so she was selling them separately at first and now they're all in one I wonder if that was due to feedback or just logistics on her end I wonder what that was about um okay pattern details the sizing which we talked about tie we already went through that this one has a three eighths inch same allowance again interesting that she's not doing the traditional five eighths inches on like a somewhat fitted woven garment step by step instructions well suited for the intermediate sewist mid to light with woven fabrics with lots of drape are recommended rayon linen blends rayon shally tensile craze machine and georgia are all suitable substrates of opaque fabrics weighing three to seven ounces per square yard are recommended I love that she's including this I think that's going to be so helpful for you guys that are shopping online not so much if you're doing it in person but um and then stretch uh fabric's not suitable and then you'll also need some elastic buttons interfacing and thread okay I remember a lot of people so I apologize about the dogs they have the zoomies right now it's like middle of the day like the afternoon and I don't know their breakfast is kicking in um so you might hear them in the background but okay so here's the line drawing again this is indicating all of the facings we've got a little buster here and this little tie which kind of ties in the waist but she also said it was elastic in the back um and I don't have a back illustration but you can see the facing um on the inside of the back of the garment so it's not lined um and then this long tie and then the slits and then the two different lengths and then two different sleeves as well okay so here are some makes let's take a look at this so um first things first it does seem to have at least on this woman the shoulder seam not so much right on top of her shoulder um so that would be something I would look at especially if you're making the sleeve version and then also this does seem a little high like like it's kind of you know creating all of these fabric pulls because her arm is like scrunching the fabric together so this could be scooped out a little bit for her and it also kind of rides up on her neck we'll see if that is consistent among everyone but this is really beautiful sort of you know middle of the road conservative not too little not too much especially for their full busted gals and you can see that bust art right here I love the position of it I love the angle of it all that looks great and then the little waist tie here it is in the back so yeah there's elastic in the back and then this lays over that I think which is interesting I bet there's a cool way to like hack that to where this almost becomes the elastic casing maybe yeah I don't know but also there's some darting here I can see I mean this looks really beautiful on her arm it's just not cut in as much on the front I think here it is from the side yeah this shoulder looks well I don't know that shoulder looks kind of okay all right here is the like mrs version and it really pretty like cotton here's the back of this one the sleeve looks fine enough room or ease in the sleeve cap that looks pretty good I mean there's gonna be a little bit of wrinkling here because this is all being gathered into this elastic waist and then again really beautiful on her with the maybe the single slit here's another possible tester make yeah we're gonna look at the ease in the bodice but this one's definitely a little bit more like blousey which I think she's probably having to pin this closed because I think I feel like this wants to fall down a little bit more here's another one it looks incredible on these apple shapes right I think that it looks really beautiful on her I love that yellow color too and the him however that is done the mitered him I guess it looks really really good executed very well there's the paper pattern all right and back to the top of the photos you can also see the facing here really well well all right so size charts we've got the two different size charts here we're gonna look at full bust goes again from 32 to 57 and a half so that's gonna be consistent throughout the hit measurement on this one is important too because it's kind of like a column silhouette so her body measurement chart is 35 inches to 59 and a half so again pretty pretty strong there in terms of being completely all inclusive finish garment measurements it looks like the bust has three and a half or three and three quarters inches of ease so that would be considered like a not loose fitting somewhat loose fitting is that what they call it it's not close fitting it's not loose fitting it's in the middle of those two things and then the hip measurement the hip finished or the hip ease sorry is four and a half inches so you can see it's a much more close fitting garment at the hip that would be considered close fitting she's also got your your bicep finished measurements so for reference I would probably be making the size I'm gonna make it based on my hip dang I'm probably be making the size 18 I think and my bicep is 14 inches so one and one eighths inch of ease for me um I might I like to ping that up maybe to two you certainly wouldn't be getting the amount of ease that this girl has that's that's probably like two inches of ease maybe um maybe two and a half so depending on how you like it to fit that sleeve I don't like mine to be super super fitted on the bicep I just you know the range of motion with it of it all and then fabric requirements let's just ignore the 45 inch wide fabric I just can't imagine you making it out of anything that's 45 inches so three and a half up to the larger sizes are four and three quarters or five and a quarter yeah it's a bit of a fabric hog because it does have that surplus bodice and where were the line drawings oh she doesn't show it to us without the sash I wonder if there's a seam here there probably isn't a seam here um you could add one and then that would you wouldn't need as much fabric and then the sash and the elastic in the back would kind of camouflage it a little bit yeah but for what I remember two people were talking about how the construction on the inside of this was really interesting like maybe there's a button over here I don't know but it is a true wrap though all right now we've got this cute little top called the eliotop um this is in sizes 12 to 30 I'm sorry 0 to 30 um the eliotop is a fitted knit top with faux wrap silhouette the neckline is finished with narrow elastic that allows the bodices to lay flush against the body of all of the knit neck band finishes I mean obviously a neck band like the little itty bitty band is probably the easiest but I found that when I did this I can't remember what pattern it was it was all one of my sew-alongs I think it was the most beautiful the most flattering and it does really allow that garment to lay super close to the body so love that detail the hem is finished with optional boulder of elastic so that it creates a smooth fit under pants or skirts um three sleeve lengths and uh three quarter inch seam allowances three I'm sorry three eighths inch seam allowances so why does this knit garment have three eighths but the other one has a quarter that's interesting um and then a three quarter inch hem intermediate sewist recommended fabric or mid-weight stable knit fabrics with lots of stretch and recovery cotton spandex is ideal it should have at least 50 four-way stretch and nine to 12 ounces per square yard lightweight knit fabrics are not recommended and then you'll need some elastic some elastic some elastic lots of elastic on this one all right let's take a look at the photos all right so it is very like you know ballerina leotard esque right and I imagine hacking this into a bodysuit would not be difficult at all just adding sort of like a bikini to the bottom but it is a deep bead but look how beautiful that is laying against her body like no gaping nothing stunning even on a full bust gorgeous the shoulder seam this is kind of a funky shoulder seam too it seems to be a little bit angled toward the back and again riding up on her neck so might be a little bit wide just double check those but look at her she's like dancing around and you can't see a thing love it that must be the same shirt on a different body and you can see the shoulder here looks pretty good could also be the angle but yeah it's deep guys it is a deep v so you were going to be showing showing your cleavage if you've got it she has hers kind of like pulled down under like cupping her bust whereas she has well I guess they're all doing the same thing it's interesting to me well I guess it depends on your bra or how close together your breasts are spaced because she doesn't have any cleavage and then we've got another one this is Allie we've got another one on her it's in this white very pretty I kind of really love the deep v this that feels like twisty enough for me you know what I mean like it's a basic t-shirt but this little db really does give it a little bit of sass and I would for sure convert it into a body suit I can't imagine that staying tucked in very well I'd love to know how long it actually is because I think most everybody had theirs tucked in right tucked tucked tucked tucked tucked tucked tucked tucked everybody hasn't tucked so I would love to see how long it is naturally all right finished and and body measurement so we've got the same body measurement chart right 32 inches up to 57 and a half the ease is roughly what is that three and a quarter inches of negative ease so not quite as like fitted as the first tank top which makes sense considering the fabric recommendations and this is where learning fabrication is so important because the first one you needed that 60 rip knit with ideal and it had those six inches of a negative ease this one is suggested like cotton blends cotton spandex blends and 50 stretch four-way and only has three and whatever about three inches of the negative ease or whatever you know what I'm saying so and you can see here too the bicep has a lot of negative ease as well compared to the woven that I um just talked about fabric requirements okay so we've got a up to two and three-quarter yards here um a bit I guess it depends on does it depend on the sleeve no it doesn't so whether you're making the short sleeve or the three-quarter sleeve it's all the same fabric requirements so yeah kind of a lot of fabric makes me think that maybe that top is pretty long um because again because it's cut you know these are all big chunks of fabric um so maybe it is pretty long all right next we have the quorum top and dress this is a cutie I love a raglan sleeve you guys know that by now this one again comes in sizes 0 to 30 the quorum top and dressing patterns a loose fitting raglan ideal for woven fabrics with drape this design features bust and shoulder darts for shaping bust and shoulder darts maybe on the top of the shoulder um sleeve coughs offer a clean finish and a curved dolphin hem provides visual interest view a features a high low hem while the hem of view b is even from front to back here are the pattern details we've got five eighths inch seam allowances on this one and a half inch hem a little baby hem um which I guess is probably ideal for that little dolphin hem as she called it um okay well suited for the beginner so is that's nice mid-weight woven fabrics with some drape are recommended rayon linen blends rayon shally I mean that's not a mid-weight woven but tencel crepe de sheen and georgia are all suitable substrates it should have said light to mid-weight maybe um opaque fabrics weighing three to seven ounces per square yard are recommended pattern is not suitable for stretch fabrics and then you'll need some coordinating thread um yeah I think for the top you can absolutely get away with lightweight um wovens for the dress you might want a little bit more heft and weight to it just to kind of like conceal you know lumps and bumps and things going on underneath but super cute detail again with the raglan and then you've got kind of like a neck band I guess and then the sleeve cuff and the bust darts and the curved hem here it is really cute this almost feels like bias binding though and a little bit closer on the sleeve than I would have imagined looking at the line drawing alone there it is from the back oh yeah see here's the sleeve dart really pretty although I don't know what happened here and why there's a little pucker maybe it's a little bit long and that's why she's getting that she's a little long on her and then of course they made this little sash thing here which I don't know that I would make or wear um there's the dolphin hem so here's the neckline now I'm thinking it's a band that's turned under and topstitched which is very easy to sew but you've got your shoulder dart your raglan sleeve and your bust dart all in one photo and then here's the sleeve of this when you can see how much ease she has in the mrs um that did not translate to the um plus sizes or the women's sizes but here it is from the side here's that dolphin hem really cute very easy to execute the way she has kind of constructed it cute I love it in this little linen here's a top version again you can see the ease in the bicep not nearly as much as it is in the um straight sizes but it's cute right here it is as a set sewn with some shorts from another pattern I mean the fabrication on this one is truly truly endless oh this is like the t-shirt version so it's long in the back I mean it's almost tunic style tunic length I wish you would have shown that um from far away and am I expected to believe that this girl has all of that tucked into these shorts I don't know about that the dress I was like yes yes dress get it get it and then all these tucked in tops I'm like sure just assuming they were like normal length but after seeing this I'm like whoa that is a lot of fabric to tuck into a high-waisted short so something to consider there also the dolphin hem if you're just going to tuck it in the dolphin hem is a lot of work um for no one to ever see it so maybe consider just chopping it all off if you're just going to tuck in your tops I mean yeah I guess technically you can see the comparison in the line drawings that this is the dress and it's knee length and then this is the top and it really is a tunic tell me she no I'm not buying it that she has all this fabric stuffed into these clothes fitting pants no way okay um all right cool and then um some ease for the bust is a good seven inches so it is a loose fitting bust the hips though when we get down to here we've only got four inches of these in the hips so again uh loose fitting in the top and then you know kind of his column and so it goes down to just a four inch kind of close fitting skirt and then the bicep here they obviously don't they don't provide body chart measurements for the biceps usually um but if you remember correctly I am a size 18 but yeah wait what is happening because oh are these the same no look at this okay so wait 12 the bicep on a size 12 in the straight sizes finished is 17 and 5 eighths the bicep on a size 12 in the d cup is 13 and a quarter so that's that's exactly what happened that's why I wonder if that was on purpose like if you're full or busted you like a closer fitting sleeve I don't know does anybody anybody have any speculation as to why there would be like a three to four inch difference between the size 12 straight and the size 12 extended or the I'm sorry the b cup versus the d cup size ranges that's that's interesting to me um okay fabric requirements um yeah three to three and a half yards of fashion fabric there is an off chance on some of these like gauzes and things that you could end up with a 45 inch wide fabric but it's only a half inch more than the 60 inch fabric so it's not like three yards and then six um which we do see from time to time so that's the core on top next we have the monarch jacket and so many of you who were listening to me gripe about wanting a bomber jacket that buttons up the front sent me this option however because I'm super difficult I wanted it to button up yes but I also wanted a set in sleeve and finding that combination is like I don't know unearthing like a dinosaur bone or something it's like impossible to find so if you know a pattern I'm just going to keep throwing it out there if you know a pattern that but the a a what is it called bomber jacket intended for knits that buttons up the front and has a set in sleeve not a raglan sleeve but a set in sleeve let me know at this point I'm willing to pay you in Starbucks copies like if you find one I'll send you a code for a Starbucks okay the monarch jacket sewing pattern is a boxing jacket designed for thick stable knits like pontine scuba this slightly cropped cardigan style jacket has wrist length raglan sleeves and a bomber inspired collar optional snaps provide closure of the center front it has several inches of positive ease through the bodice and is fitted through the lower sleeve the d cup versions pattern features bust art while the b cop does not perfect and then threes and seam allowances kind of again all over the place with that and well suited for the beginner sewist who has some experience sewing with stable knit fabrics so that seems awfully specific but we have stable knit fabrics with at least 20 stretch the collar should be sewn using a knit fabric with at least 40 stretch ribbing can be used for the collar if desired and ribbing is like a you can either buy it like in little strips that are intended for this application or you can buy it in like 22 inch tubes and cut it up yourself ribbing is a very specific thing it's not the same as rib knit you can use rib knit in place of ribbing but they're not the same ponti french terry double knit stretch fleece neoprene scuba are all suitable for the monarch jacket nine and 14 ounces per square yard is what is recommended you need thread lightweight interfacing and then some snaps let's take a look at these pictures it is a super cute design very well executed in terms of like proportions and just making it foxy but not overwhelming i like this little fuzzy version yeah we've kind of got the like americana collegiate vibe going here very on trend even still even though this pattern was released before the pandemic but this i think is a ponti knit so you can get that kind of like smooth sleek look but still stable and you can see here she's not using contrasting fabric the last one she didn't and this one she did not either and i don't think with the fuzzy one she did or maybe it was hard to tell um so it's not like you have to go out and buy something special for this if you don't want to this is two of the same fabric in different colors yeah so there you have it it is a really cute little jacket i wish they would have cropped it a little bit more for her seems a little bit long yeah it's cute i can see why it's been so popular i've seen a lot of these floating around the internet or at least like a lot of people who have bought them honestly i can't say that i know a lot of people who've sewn them up but maybe if you want to see even more photos i'm sure she has like an instagram hashtag for every single yeah monarch jacket on instagram you can click this and it'll open up every like instagram post that's ever mentioned the monarch jacket and then i you know what i've missed this on the other two on the other patterns we've looked at i wondered this is more like a styling post and this is specifically calling out kailey's maybe like what fabric she used in stuff or her experience sewing with it so even though this is a like pattern you know retail situation is very much like a blog too all right so full bust ease is roughly four inches the waistband circumference which isn't technically your hip goes up to 60 inches it's a little bit it's more like your high hip measurement whatever that would be and then fabric requirements go up to three and a quarter yards and only 54 to 60 inch wide fabrics on the d cup i think she probably talks about that here yeah and then if you're making a b cup you can use 45 inches but only up to a size 10 i don't i can't really think of many 45 inch fabrics that you would use like all those ones that she suggested all come 54 inches or wider okay so that was the monarch jacket this let me real quick i want to go see the quorum top blog post oh there weren't any okay oh wait just kidding here they are adding an elastic waist kind of like hack um find out what a linen quorum dress looks like worn boxy so i guess it's just like you know pictures of her wearing it and then how she created this set so that's a cute um idea for a post and then for the wrap knit t-shirt ish top fabric and supplies fitting most common pattern adjustments needed and then specifically calling out alexis's heliotop all right that seems really helpful the fitting one especially and then on the highlands we have how to sew oh yeah so this one she had a um like a sew along and i actually pulled up the her youtube channel so she doesn't have a ton of content and she actually hasn't posted anything in almost a year so this is not going to be one of those channels where you know like mine where you know you get videos all the time um but this is definitely kind of like a compliment to her blog so she's got a keyla tank tutorial i guess and then drafting a keyla tank that kind of swings out and then she's got this wrap dress series um and then also okay so the keyla tank comes with that bias binding which is difficult to sew so she's explaining how to do it with knit bands instead which i recommend for everyone i tried to do it with those bias little things and i could not it was a hot mess so i recommend the bands for everyone um okay and so then we have a tensile highlands blouse i guess that she cropped so kind of like a hack here and then how to shorten it so how to shorten it and then what that looks like and then this is the keyla which i think we're going to see that tutorial yeah video tutorials right those three that we saw and then she's got hacks how to make it into a long dress how to make it into a henley so a lot of ways to kind of juge that one up a little bit and make a bunch of different versions okay now that i know that exists i'll be sure to keep scrolling all right this is the nephi cardigan cozy outer layer with an easy fit long flowing cardigan has long sleeves and front neckline basings uh designed for knit fabrics with lots of drape it'll become your go-to cardigan for wearing around the house or while traveling on planes or long road trips um pairs beautifully with leggings or joggers and a simple tank so kind of like a layering situation three eighth inch seam allowances and intermediate sewist fabric would be fluid knit fabrics with substantial stretch rayon bamboo and tensile jersey with at least 50 stretch are ideal five ounces or more per square yard will work best and then coordinating thread i will say wear and look at the photos and the fabric is beautiful the way the fabric drapes the way i'm sure it feels it looks smooth and soft and everything these fabrics are a pain and then you know what to sew with they're a pain to cut and they're a pain to sew with so keep that in mind as we go through these um i think you could probably go up to something a little bit more structured like maybe with the cotton blended in and be fine it's just going to be standing away from the body a little bit more um i don't think those fabrics are off limits uh just know that they're not going to drape like some of these that we're going to look at but here we have it i think this is the um set in sleeve which again is falling off her shoulder so that's interesting i don't know if it was a drop shoulder let's see um i can't really tell i don't think so i don't think it was intended to drop below the shoulder so i would want to run up to her and just hike that up right on top of her right on top of her shoulder um yeah this one even sits on the very very outer edge so we might have and i consistently have to check the shoulder widths on her patterns but this looks pretty stable right that doesn't look super drapey this might even be like a french cherry which would be super super comfortable this one very drapey maybe an ity or something living in that land oh actually i don't know maybe it is a rayon but you can see here how everything is finished so you are going to see your either your cover stitch or your top stitching i don't know why they did contrast thread but i guess maybe because this turquoise was not common not easy to be found oh get it girl she made it into a dress of course love that cute little idea and then here's one now does this thing have pockets i don't remember her mentioning pockets maybe that's one of that oops one of the hacks that she has wait what is happening oh okay we started adding this photo and then we're back to the beginning right yeah there's one drawing okay so so this is all getting oh wait because this only is in the no it says zero to 30 but you come down here and we've only got zero to 14 so okay was it in this thing nope that only has zero to 14 too so i don't really fully know what is going on with the full size range because it's just not included here also no blog posts so yeah not that you really need a ton of measurements for this because the it's just so loose fitting and just you know drapey and all that kind of stuff i mean look at these even on the size 14 finished garment measurements going up to 60 in the bust and 84 in the hips so i'm not sure how she's having you pick your size and maybe by the full the high bust i don't know um but certainly you're not going to have a ton of fitting issues other than in that shoulder area so that would be from like here like yeah your high bust up that's where i would double check everything and then of course check your bicep and the opening here you don't want that to be too big or too small either but everything else below the high bust is going to fit okay lastly we have the loan tree jacket this one is a bit of a beast but look how cute it is lots of great details um this comes in sizes extra small to four XL and we'll see what that translates to because it's the first time she's used alphanumeric sizing so the loan tree jacket and best sewing pattern is a lightweight outer layer for chilly weather view a features a full length two-piece sleeve with cuff two-piece sleeve okay um bb is the best with armhole facings both views include collar front and back facings so it's like a kind of like a grown on collar looking situation i don't know if there's a seam under here or not and then this one you have an option of adding a hood to either one of them but you get a collar it's like two layers you know what i mean um and optional hood patch pockets with snap or button closures pairs woke loss and g is very casual utilitarian look all right um generous half-inch seam allowances allow for optional seam finishes maining maybe like flat belt seams or even hong kong um intermediate sewist and mid-weight fabrics with body are recommended twill chino corduroy wax canvas seven to ten ounces per square yard if preferred lightweight fabrics like quilting cotton wall or lawn can be used for the facings and lining perfect though these are not required for fun contrast use plaid flannel for these pattern pieces mid-weight interfacing twill tape and cording snaps or buttons a zipper safety pin um metal eyelets and cord stops and locks so here she is again with the patch pocketing the little drawstring waist with the there's these are the like cord stops that i was just talking about um and then the stops are down here at the end i think maybe i got those backwards but um your zipper separating zipper and then facings or a sleeve and a hood or not okay so here is a version not as loose fitting as i thought and also a lot shorter than i thought based on the line drawings but this collar it isn't a grown on collar there is actually a seam here there it is the hood um here's another version on alley again very close fitting for a layering piece um yeah i don't know i might size up if i were going to make this to make it a little bit more like a i mean you could not wear a sweater under this couldn't wear a sweatshirt or anything like that you'd have to keep it to a t-shirt um that version's you know obviously very cute and just showing the versatility of it all but yeah she's post fitting and really barely even touches the hip in terms of length so this is not going to be one of your like full-on coats here is our size chart so we've got the bust supposedly has four inches of ease in it no i don't know that i believe that the hips supposedly have five inches of ease no i don't think so i don't know if i believe that or not do you see four inches of ease here and five inches i definitely don't see five inches of ease here um fabric requirements up to three and a quarter yards three and three quarters maybe but the size chart for oh that's a lot easier to read the size chart for the four xl or for the alphanumeric sizing is Jesus it's very sensitive um zero to 20 so that means a 32 inch bust up to 46 inch bust which is not the same wasn't her bust sizing on the numeric sizing 56 and 59 i think it was okay designed for five six and designed to be fitted through the shoulders and arm size and she is recommending to size up if you're in between sizes okay all right something to consider for sure back to the beginning on that and then we looked at these already and then no hacks or anything all right so that is Ali Olsen design i'm getting a very like northwestern you know seattle organ like you're hiking in the woods but it's kind of misty outside you know what i mean that's the kind of style i'm getting from this all very wearable but definitely a sense of earthiness and groundedness to everything right do you guys see that too certainly a lot of great basics that you can incorporate into your wardrobe this would probably if you made one of each of these um well there are no bottoms so that would be troublesome but um and then threw in a pair of shorts and pants you could have one of those capsule wardrobes and just keep swapping this stuff in and out um and never have to sew or buy anything ever again um so it's a good variety um good basics um and really an opportunity to buy some fabrics and let them kind of tell the story i'm dying to know what you guys think though as always leave a comment in the comment section below letting me know what you think of these patterns i have um here on the insulate last week's first impression friday which was the burda june collection so if you want to binge another episode of this uh just click that on the bottom right corner of your screen otherwise you guys that's going to do it for me today and i will see you all very soon bye