Section 17 of the Family Kitchen Gardener. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Dana Allen. The Family Kitchen Gardener by Robert Buist. Section 17. Allmund, Amygdala's Communist. Allmundier, French, Mandelbaum, German. This fruit is a native of China and other eastern countries. In the south of Europe it is cultivated to a great extent for export, and several thousand tons are annually brought to this country. It could, however, be very readily cultivated in the latitudes and soils of Virginia and North Carolina. It is one of the fruits mentioned in the history of the Israelites and was held in great esteem by the ancients. The tree is very similar to the peach in growth, blossom, and fruit. The flower, however, is much larger and more ornamental. The kernel, which is the only valuable part of the fruit, enters largely into confectionery of every kind. The toilet, too, is furnished with oils of various names extracted from it, such as Milk of Roses, Macassar Oil, Russia Oil, Calidor, etc. There are several varieties of the fruit, but all known as bitter and sweet almonds. Sultane is a thin-shelled sweet almond nut about an inch in length, firm, oval, shell-light-colored, tender and very porous, kernel rich and sweet. Jordan or thick-shelled. Size of the former, shell-light-colored, smooth and porous, kernel rich and very sweet. Amygdalis amara is the bitter almond. Fruit very similar to the others, shell-hard, kernel bitter, used for condiments and by wine-bibbers to allay the fumes of wine. Propagation and culture. The almond is propagated by the kernel or seed when the object is to obtain new varieties in the same manner as the peach. It can be perpetuated by budding and is most permanent when grown upon the plum stock, but in a dry sandy soil they will do best on their own stock. As a general rule, soil that grows the peach will soothe the almond. See Article Peach. Gathering of the fruit. The fruit should be allowed to remain on the tree until the rind opens and becomes quite brown and the kernels firm and solid when it may be gathered and gradually dried till the shell becomes hard after which it may be stored away for use. Apple. Pirous mains. Palm. French. Opfel. German. Of all the fruits cultivated in this country, the apple is undoubtedly the most valuable. It is the fruit of the peasant and the president of the rich and the poor and is suited to 346,500 square miles of the United States. At what period it became known is involved in obscurity. It is a native of several countries and peculiarly so of this and the delightful odor of the wild crab of Virginia when in bloom is gratefully remembered by every traveler who passes that region in March and April. The tree is naturally long-lived. History asserts that it has been known to live over a thousand years, though we would rather ascribe it to one fourth of that period. There is no climate in the world where the apple is brought to such perfection as in this. It can be had in perfection throughout the year, forming always an agreeable and luxurious addition to the food of man. The fruit when ripe is laxative and when boiled or roasted it has been found serviceable in cases of weakness and indigestion as also in putrid and malignant fevers. The constitution of the apple is adapted to every kind of soil. There are known to be about 800 varieties in cultivation, three-fourths of which are not worth attention, and of the remaining fourth the following list contains all that are really excellent. We introduce to the notice of our readers such varieties only as have been tested and can be relied upon for a crop, compromising a succession from the earliest to the latest. Every person will understand our expressions of large, medium, small, round, flat, oval, and long when applied to the apple, its size, and character being so familiar to civilized man. Some are apples, early harvest, princes harvest, yellow harvest, etc. This is the best early American apple at present known, being a healthy growing tree and a great bearer. Fruit of a pale yellow color, round form, medium size, skin waxy, smooth with faint pale dots. Flesh tender and very juicy of a sprightly crisp flavor. Ripe in early July fit for either dessert or cooking. Striped harvest, a beautiful American variety of excellent growth and very productive, takes the market well. Fruit under medium size of a pale yellow color, striped with red, profusely so next to the sun, round form. Flesh very juicy and tender of a superior flavor, a dessert fruit ripe in July. Seven's favorite, an American fruit of great beauty, a constant bearer and of free growth. Fruit flat, greenish-yellow, highly colored with bright red medium size. Flesh crisp, juicy of a yellow-white color, ripe from the middle to the end of July. Bow or large yellow bow is perhaps the finest looking fruit brought to our market, for which purpose we expressly notice it. We think it too large for the table and it is not fit for the kitchen. Fruit large, oval of a pale greenish-yellow. Flesh pure white, tender, sweet and crisp. Ripe in July and August. Early red margaret or red juniating, an American sort of excellent qualities. Fruit medium size of an oval form, pale green color, freely striped with dark red. Flesh yellow-white of a very agreeable flavor, fit for the dessert or kitchen. Ripe in August. Summer pear-main or autumn pear-main of some. This is the very best fruit in its season and has long been known in this vicinity. Tree of slender growth but well-formed, a regular bearer. Fruit long oval, medium size of a russety-yellow color, shaded with green and red. Flesh firm, brownish-yellow, crisp, juicy and high flavored, suitable for the dessert or kitchen. Ripe in August and early September. Maiden's blush, supposed to be an American variety. Exceedingly beautiful, a great bearer of good habit. Fruit medium size, flat, color pale yellow with a bright red cheek, or if grown in the shade, tinted with blush. Flesh white, tender, with a pleasant flavor, in use from August to October and fit for either the table or kitchen. Hawthorndon, a very popular scotch apple, a great and early bearer, fairly maintaining its character in this country. It is of dwarf growth and spreading form. Fruit very similar in size and shape to the former, though not so highly colored. Flesh pure white, juicy and mild flavored, suitable for either the table or cooking. Ripe from August to October. Fall apples, Rambo or red seat no further, is one of our most valuable varieties for the market, table or kitchen and is a native of this vicinity. Fruit about medium size, flat with a smooth yellow white skin, marbled and speckled with rough red spots. Flesh yellowish white, rich and sprightly, in use from September to November. Fall pippin or Holland pippin of some. Whoever has visited Philadelphia Market in September and October has seen this apple, fruit large, round, of a fine smooth greenish yellow color with an occasional blush. Flesh white, mellow, spicy, rich and tender. Very popular for either the dessert or kitchen. White seat no further, a very popular variety. Trees of free growth and good bearing. Fruit round, rather tapering towards the eye of a yellowish white color. Skin smooth with russety spots. Flesh yellow, rich, juicy and tender. A table fruit of great excellence, in use from September to November. Bellflower, or yellow bellflower of some, is everywhere esteemed for its many good qualities. It is one of the most prolific bearers and, being a native, well adapted for general culture. Fruit very large of a conical form. Color creamy yellow with a few brown spots. Flesh tender, juicy, crisp with a sprightly flavor, having a large core. Fit for the table or kitchen. In use from September to December. Autumn pear main or winter pear main. This variety is not excelled by any of our fall or winter fruits. Wood of slender growth, but producing great crops. Fruit oblong, medium size of a yellowish color, stained and modeled with a brownish red. Flesh pale lemon yellow, tender with an agreeable aromatic flavor. Fit for dessert or cooking, ripe in October to January. Winter apples. Cumberland spice, or white bellflower of some, is a general favorite, producing great crops. Fruit oblong, large size, tapering towards the eye. Of a yellowish white color, marked with a few reddish brown dots, having a large core. Flesh white, very juicy, tender with a delicately agreeable flavor. In use from October to February. Bullocked pippin or sheep nose. This is a productive variety, universally cultivated for its luscious flavor. Fruit conical, of a yellow russety color, foot stock long. Flesh yellow, very tender, mild, rich and juicy. An American sort, in eating from October to January. It is called by eastern growers, golden russet. Confounding it with the well-known old apple of that name, to which it has no affinity. Wine apple or haze apple. Well known in this vicinity as a superb winter fruit, of large size, of a round flattened form. Skin yellow, nearly covered with bright red. Flesh yellowish white, crisp and juicy, with a vines and pleasant flavor. A table and kitchen fruit, in use from October to January. Rhode Island greening. A favorite fruit, extensively cultivated and produces immense crops in almost every variety of soil. Fruit large, round, very regular form, with a smooth dark green skin. Flesh yellow, close, sprightly, with a slightly aromatic flavor. In use for the kitchen or table from October to January. Roman stem. A great favorite in New Jersey, where it is very productive, forming a very handsome, round-headed tree. Fruit round, medium size, of a pale yellow color, with a few reddish specks. Flesh delicate, with a rich, juicy, agreeable flavor. Ripe from November to March, and fit for either the table or cooking. Jessupus spitsenberg. There is perhaps not a fruit in the whole catalog more beautiful to look upon than this variety, and it is second to none in quality. Fruit large, partially oblong, skin smooth of a yellowish green, and nearly covered with brilliant red. Flesh yellow, crisp and juicy, of a rich flavor, with a large core. Ripe in November to January. Monmouth Pippin. I have not seen an apple for many years that so much riveted my attention as this at the exhibition of the New Jersey Horticultural Society in 1846. The tree is of excellent habit and a good bearer. Fruit over medium size, roundish, flat, smooth, rustic green skin, marked with dots of brown. Flesh firm, yellow-white, crisp, juicy, and high flavored, in use from November to March, fit for the dessert or the kitchen. Baldwin. A celebrated apple of the eastern states, where the tree is reputed to be a great bearer, and cultivated extensively for the market, sending us a supply every season. Fruit round, rather conical, of a yellow ground, covered with crimson and red, having a few russet spots and streaks, flesh yellow, crisp, and of a peculiarly rich flavor, ripe from November to February, an excellent table fruit. Newton Pippin. There are two varieties of this prince of fruits, the yellow and the green, differing in color, very much alike in form, though the yellow appears to be a little flatter than the green. Fruit medium size, round, obscurely ribbed towards the eye. Of a dull yellow green, with a brownish blush on one side, slightly covered with brown dots, flesh firm. Yellowish white, very crisp, juicy, having an exceedingly peculiar rich flavor. For eating or cooking, it has as yet no equal. In use from November to May, retaining all its aroma till the last. A native of Long Island, where the original tree, I believe, still exists. It requires a rich, loamy soil. Lady Apple. A very popular variety, introduced from France, and is generally cultivated as a leading winter fruit, which it produces in clusters. The tree is of an elegant, upright, strong growth. Fruit small, regularly round, though rather flattened, color bright yellow with a lively dark red cheek. Flesh white, tender, juicy, and crisp. A valuable market variety, in use from December to April. Tuxbury winter blush. A handsome American fruit, not equaled for long keeping by any other sort. A great bearer and of good growth. Fruit of medium size, round, flat form, skin smooth, yellow with a bright red cheek. Flesh yellowish white, juicy, and well flavored. In use from January to July. Cider apples. Wine sap is a great bearer, grows freely, though rather straggling, and is extensively grown in the sandy soils of New Jersey. Fruit medium size, roundish, yellow, almost entirely covered with dull red. Flesh yellow, firm, crisp, juicy, and high flavored. A winter fruit. Harrison. A handsome growing tree of New Jersey. Of the very highest character as a cider apple, producing large crops. Fruit medium size, round oval, yellow with rough black specks. Flesh yellow, rich flavor, ripe in November. Haglokrab. A celebrated fruit for early use, either for cider or the kitchen. It is a strong grower and an abundant bearer. Fruit medium size, flat, greenish yellow, streaked with red. Flesh soft, juicy with a rich flavor, ripe in August and September. Siberian crab. This variety is cultivated exclusively for preserving. Being very small, with a clear waxy skin, either yellow or red. There being two varieties. The red makes a very ornamental tree when loaded with its brilliant fruit. Being like so many pendant garnets. Culture. The best soil for the apple is that of a loamy friable nature. Avoiding sand and clay. In either of which this tree is short lived. The finest trees and orchards are planted on a deep sandy loam. Either on a dry bottom or having a good descent for carrying off the water. It is not our purpose to go into an elaborate detail of the management of an orchard. That would only confuse and mystify. Our aim is to state only what is essential and to do it with brevity and precision. There is no country that possesses greater advantages of climate for fruit culture than the United States. Yet, as we have stated, we see fine young trees left to the mercy of the elements without any support. We see no disposition to arrange or form the head. No hand to thin out the crops. All, all is left to nature. Even the soil has no annual or tri-annual material given to keep it in a state to yield a regular and continued crop. The trees, in consequence, get distorted. The limbs broken down with their harvests to their lazy lords and then commences the bosom of destruction. To annihilate their existence with saw and axe to cut off their broken branches. Disease takes hold of the tree, and it comes to a premature old age having not lived half its days. Such has been the fate of many an orchard, and such is the treatment most frequently pursued in the present day. The first object of attention in planting an orchard ought to be to have the ground well-plowed, deep, even trench-plowed. Manure heavily, put on a potato or corn crop the year previous to planting out, and cultivate it freely the whole season. The soil will then be in order to receive the trees. Plant them from 40 to 50 feet apart, giving the tree at once a strong support to prevent its being tossed with the winds. Tie between the tree and the stake some soft material which will keep the bark from being chafed. Experience teaches that all young orchards should be cultivated and cropped with any kind of grain or root crops accepting grass or hay. After the trees have come into a good bearing state, grass is not at all objectionable, but as soon as the trees show any indication of a meager and stunted growth, the ground should be well-enriched in the vicinity of their roots. We see no reason why fruit trees should not occupy the space allowed for brush and saplings around the fields and about the fences. It cannot be the cost, for that is a mere trifle. Every farmer may at least grow apart and should have a few reserve trees by him every year. It's merely because it is customary to allow these weeds of the forest to grow in place of luscious fruit. Pruning. This object is generally considered a labor instead of a pleasant pastime. We can never admit that it is necessary to use an axe and a saw to prune a tree, more especially a fruit tree, that treatment belongs to the dark ages. A strong pruning, knife, good hands with a judicious head are the accompaniments of the orchardists. Cut off all cross branches, shorten those that stretch out beyond the general outline of the tree, thin out all super abundant wood to allow the permanent branches and shoots to be from 6 to 12 inches apart. It will rarely be necessary to cut off a shoot of 1 inch in diameter. Insects. We are not aware of any destructive enemy to the apple tree that cannot be kept under by a moderate share of vigilance. The borer, a white fleshy grub that commits its depredations just at the surface of the ground perforating every part of the stem is the greatest enemy. Heaping around the tree during the month of May, about 8 inches of coal ashes, lime, or sand will greatly prevent it. These heaps must be spread down again in October or November. It is said that by putting a peck of hot lime about the stem of a tree that is affected by this grub, it will be entirely restored. Naturalists say that this insect, sapatida baviltida, remains 2 or 3 years in the tree and comes out in a butterfly form in June, flying about at night and depositing its eggs on the tree close to the surface of the ground. Caterpillars may be kept under, and in fact it is the only way to do it, by destroying their nests in the early morning or about noon. If they are allowed to progress, they will soon cover an orchard, while when taken in time they are very readily destroyed. Gathering the fruit. Handpicking is undoubtedly the best way of collecting the fruit, and whether for family use or the market, the superior quality and appearance of such will command a price that will more than cover the expense. Early fruits should be handled very carefully. Winter fruits may remain on the tree till the approach of frost, when they should be collected, and those for sale put into good barrels at once, to be conveyed to market when required. Those intended for family use should be placed in a dry shed for 2 weeks, and then carefully wiped with a cloth, and put away in a dry cellar free from frost. Those that are required to keep till May and June should be packed in dry sand, or some other material, to exclude them from the air. The apricot. Prunus armonaica. Abricoliet, French, apricosinbaum, German. The apricot is one of the most beautiful of fruits, and has been cultivated for about 1800 years. It is a native of China and Japan, growing in great abundance on the dry mountains of those countries. Some travelers also mention of its being found in Egypt. The fruit is much esteemed for making marmalades, jellies, and preserves. In its plain state it is considered wholesome and strengthening. In Europe it attains to very great perfection, though with us it never appears to grow to that size we have so frequently seen it there. A more park apricot, 12 inches in circumference, is a very imposing fruit, compared with the nut-like productions usually seen in our markets. It ripens at a very desirable period of the season, between the period of the late cherries and early peaches. We introduce the following as the best sorts. Breida. A small fruit, about 4 inches in circumference, very abundant, round form, deep brown-orange color, with a few blush spots towards the sun. Flesh deep orange, separating from the stone, flavor good, kernel sweet, which is a distinguishing character in this variety. Hemskirk. Fruit medium size, 2 inches diameter, of a round form, color bright orange. Flesh dark orange, flavor very juicy and rich. Tree of vigorous growth and an abundant bearer. Moorpark. It is admitted that this variety is the best of the family and is universally cultivated. I have seen a tree of this sort that covered a wall 16 feet high and 100 feet long. Its growth in this climate is not so free as the former, but it is a great bearer and always produces a crop. Size, the largest from 2 to 4 inches in diameter, color pale yellow, form round oval, flesh bright orange, separating freely from the stone, flavor very rich. Growth strong, eyes close, foliage large, delights in a deep sandy loam. Ripe about the middle of July. The whole of this class of fruits ripen in this month with us, but if picked before being fully ripe and put into an ice house, they will be in eating 2 weeks longer. Peach apricot, or apricot pèche, of the French. There is very little difference between this variety and the former. Indeed it is so trifling that very few could detect it. It possesses the same characters and ripens at the same time, but the wood has not the eyes so closely set on it, nor is the foliage so heart shaped. One grand essential to the production of fine apricots is to thin out the fruit well, not allowing it to remain within 2 or 3 inches of each other. There are about 10 other varieties of the apricot, but all inferior, so far as has been tested by us, to those now described. Culture. This tree rarely succeeds well in this country unless protected by a wall or fence. Not that it does not grow as a standard, like other fruit trees, but in that position it rarely matures a crop except in city gardens, the early spring frosts destroying the blossoms. It should be placed on an east, west, or north aspect, avoiding a south. It requires good, rich, sandy, loamy soil. The curculio appears to be particularly fond of the fruit. Pruning may be entirely dispensed with after the tree is formed, merely keeping the branches within bounds and training the shoots in any required direction. As a standard, in city gardens, it is both useful and ornamental, being the first tree in bloom of the season, having a large, shining green foliage and generally producing a good crop. Propagation. It is too frequently budded on the peach stalk by nurserymen. On such, it is short-lived, not constitutionally so, but the stalk on which it depends for life fails in a few years unless the borer be prevented from attacking it. The best, and indeed, the only stalk that should be used is the plum, on which it should be budded in July or August, and on it will grow half a century. Very good fruit can be raised by planting the stones in the same manner as the peach. End of Section 17, Recording by Dana Allen For more information or to volunteer, please visit Liebervox.org Recording by Ray Smith The Family Kitchen Gardener By Robert Buest Section 18 Cherry Siracis Variation Threser French Kirscherbaum German Some species of the cherry is native to every temperate climate. History records its culture before the Christian era. It is the earliest of our stone fruit and comes into use about the 8th or 20th of June according to the season. The tree is of great diversity of habit, size, and shape. The fruit too possesses every variety of flavor, from the most heart to honey sweet. In cookery and distillation, it is compounded into endless forms. In ancient and modern times, it is peculiarly a wayside tree. An avenue of cherry trees characterizes the dwellings of the great in the 16th century. The medicinal properties of the fruit are rather vague, although it is considered wholesome. Its gum is supposed to be nearly equal to the gum arabic of commerce. The wood is extensively used in domestic cat network. There are nearly a hundred varieties whose qualities may be embraced in half a dozen sorts. Bigger Rope Color pale yellow with red cheek and one fully ripe of a bright amber. Large size irregularly heart shaped, flesh firm adhering to the stone, rich and high flavored. Stock about 2 inches long, growth strong and upright. A great bearer hangs long on the tree. Ripe about the 14th of July. Black Tartarine or Black Circation Fruit very large irregularly heart shaped, of a shining black color one fully ripe. Stock an inch and a half long. Flash dark purple, very rich and juicy, stone quite small. Ripe from the 20th to the end of June, the finest black cherry that has grown. A handsome tree, of rapid growth and large foliage. Carnation, color bright shining waxy marbled red. Fine round form, stock short and stout. Flash tender one fully ripe, of a rich subarctic flavor. One of the best looking varieties. Ripe about the 1st of July and hangs long on the tree. A good bearer, tree low hanging and round headed. Elton, color pale waxy yellow, cheek next to the sun of a shining pale red malted or streaked. The very largest sized heart shaped, stock one and a half to two inches long. Flash one fully ripe tender, juicy and of the very best flavor. Ripe about the 20th of June. Tree of strong growth and regular form, foliage large. Kentish, there are several varieties that go under this name such as May Cherry, Early Richmond, Flemish of South. There is also Lake Kentish or Pie Cherry, very common. The sort we now allude to is Early Kentish or Early Richmond. It generally produces a fruit and pears of a fine dark red color one ripe. Stock about an inch long adhering to the stone. Flash juicy of a rather sharp acid flavor. Ripe from the 15th to the 25th of June. A low spreading tree in very general cultivation. Late Duke, color dark red. Large size of a heart shaped rather rounding. Flash amber colored rich and juicy. Dough in large oval. Ripe end of July. Does well in light soils. An excellent late variety either for the dessert or the kitchen. May Duke, every lover of this fruit is heard of the May Duke Cherry. Which for fine flavor, prolific bearing and early ripeness stands alone. When fully ripe it is the Cherry and should be in every garden or orchard. Color very dark red, round form. Flash very juicy rich and melting. Stone small, great bearer. Tree rigor really formed. Wood short and full of spurs. Ripe about the 8th of June. This variety is invariably pulled before it is ripe. Morello, the latest of all the cherries. It hung on the tree with us last year until the 24th of August. They are so tart that neither burrs nor bipeds partake. Fruit round, color very dark or quite black when fully ripe. Flash very dark, more juicy than any other variety and has not an equal for it. It is used from the middle of July to the middle of August. Tree of medium growth, round and pendulous form. Common morello is smaller and inferior variety. White big row, white heart and ox heart of some. It is not our purpose to decide what fruits belong to these names. Whereof so many writers disagree. Our object is to call attention to the variety that ripens about the 15th of June just between the Mayduke and the Elton. We call it a faded under the former name. Fruit heart shaped of a pale yellowish white color with marbled red on the side towards the sun. Flash when fully ripe tender and luscious, stone large. Tree regularly formed and a great bearer when fully established. These constitute the best of the cherries and such as produce their fruit throughout the season. I am aware of the very high character born by some of the new sort which we have not tested. Nor have they been fully tried by others. To enter into a detail of such would frustrate our object in directing attention only to the best known for family use or the market. Culture. A light sandy loam in an open exposure is the best soil for the cherry. Though we have them bearing fruit in both wet and dry soils yet the finest orchard are known to be on a rich sandy loam over a gravely bottom. We prefer planting this tree early in spring. They will require to be 25 feet apart. The pruning is of the simplest form many of the kind rarely requiring in the knife. While others such as the bigger row need to have the long rampant shoots that stretch beyond the boundary of the tree shortened every September till they are formed. Propagation. This is done both by budding and grafting. The former is the most general practice for nursery men who so early in August large quantities of the common black cherry about one inch deep which vegetate freely in spring and after two years growth are fit to be budded. This is done on August 1st even the 1st of September according to the weather. Transplant the stalks one year before they are worked. They thus make more fibrous roots and when required to be moved again will grow with great certainty. The cherry is brought to our markets in the most slovenly state in large tubs and frequently pulled from the stems. A mere compound of half bruised half rotten half ripe fruit and of course it brings much less than its real value. Cherries should be pulled with care having the stems all attached to the fruit and handled as little as possible. If for the table pick them a few hours before they are wanted and put them in a cool place. If for the market then put them in shallow vessels to prevent bruising as much as possible. They will bring double the price of fruit in the ordinary state. Current. Rhybes Rube Room. Grosselli Agrappa. Duet Rao. French. Johannesburg. German. The red and black current of the gardens are considered native to the northern parts of Europe. The black is evidently inherent of a cool climate where it rarely produces its fruit in perfection. The berries falling before being ripe. There are several varieties current native of North America but very different inhabitant characters for those cultivated. There are a few or no medicinal values attached to the fruit. Current wine is a beverage that was known to our fathers but has been superseded by the more expensive and fashionable port in Madeira. The fruit has a pleasant cooling acid flavor relished by most individuals when ripe. From it there is a very excellent jelly made and indispensable condiment to many fashionable dishes of the day. The green fruit is also used for tarts but for that purpose is much inferior to rhubarb or gooseberries. Rhybes nigra or the black current is a very rich fruit produced in bunches of from 3 to 5 inches long that requires a moist cool situation shaded from the noon day sun.  The fruit is made into jelly or jam and much used in consumptive complaints. The red current is a very familiar fruit susceptible to great improvement by culture where the best care in generally gets none. There are several varieties of it at least it is grown under the variety of names. I have cultivated new red, night's early red, red grape and lastly maize Victoria neither of which excelled the old red Dutch that I have cultivated 25 years ago. Red currents and raspberries make the finest jelly. Champagne. This is a variety evidently between the red and white of a pink color. White Dutch. The white current is preferred for the table it being more sweet and palatable than any of the other sorts. It grows like the tube proceeding and requires the same treatment. Propagation and culture. The best mode of increasing the plant is by selecting cuttings of good strong young wood about a foot long. The eyes from the lower part of the shoot for about 8 inches must be cut out previous to planting which will prevent suckers from being thrown up from the roots. Plant them in early spring as the ground can be prepared or late in the autumn just before the ground is closed with the frost. The partially shaded situation is most suitable though they will do in any rich moist ground. In two years they will make fine plants when they must be removed to where they are intended to remain for fruiting. Suckers and layers should never be used. Their afterculture is merely to train up the plant to one stem about a foot high then allow it to spread and ramify uniformly but never admit it to sucker from the root. Pruning. Thin out the shoots to allow all to stand free and clear of each other then shorten back the young wood from about 3 to 6 inches of the preceding year's growth. This makes the bushes spur as gardeners term it and on these spurs the fruit is produced. The plant must be yearly supplied with manure along the roots digging the ground carefully each spring and fall. By this treatment the fruit will be like bunches of grapes and form a great contrast to the meager affairs they are generally seen in the markets. Even in our best gardens their culture is very imperfectly attended to. Producing fruit all skin and seeds and giving a very faint idea of the richness and perfection to which it can attain. Plant them 8 feet apart and if well treated they will last 20 years. Fig. Ficus caraca. Figuro French. Faganbaum German. The fig is one of the fruits first mentioned in history. Its cultivation appears to have been co-evolved with that of the apple and the grape. It has been admitted through all ages as an article of food and some nations have even so exceedingly fond of the food that its exportation is forbidden. If history is to be relied on we are retrograding in the culture and improvement of the fig. Flinny the Roman naturalist is said to have accurately described about 30 sorts. It was extensively used in all ceremonies and is presented to appease anger. Asia is its native country and we read of specimens of the fruit having been brought from the land of Kenan. It is cultivated to an immense extent in the south of Europe and dried and exported. Many thousand tons reach this country that may have been grown with great facility along our east coast from North Carolina to Florida. It is not hard enough to stand our winners without protection but south of Virginia it might be made an article of profit independent of its helpful influence on the constitution. There are supposed to be about 40 varieties though we might very readily class them into the white black and brown. Black Asia about 2 inches long and 2 inches in diameter rather flat toward the apex. Dark purple color flesh red of excellent flavor and very productive. They all ripen in July August and September and again a small crop in April and May. Brown turkey in general culture size smaller than the former color brown a great bearer flesh pale red. White Marsalis white Celestial fruit pale yellowish white round form medium size flesh rose white very high flavored a great bearer. Propagation the fig is increased by cuttings and layers of the preceding year's wood which root readily most sandy soil. Cuttings of about a foot in length planted anytime from November to February in a shaded moist soil will root first season when they may be planted in a situation appropriate to them. Layers are made by taking a branch of two or three feet long making an incision in it nearly halfway through the shoot entering the ninth half an inch below an eye and drawing it toward the point of the shoot about two inches which will form what gardeners call a tongue on the lower extremity of which is the eye. Then this portion gently placing it under the ground about four inches where it will form roots in a few months. Early the following spring these layers may be taken off and planted where they are required. Culture the fig is not very particular in regard to soil. We have seen it covered in an extent of 40 feet by 20 in all kinds of soil from sand to clay but the first fruit is obtained from trees grown on a sandy lonely soil with dry bottom. On very rich soils it grows too much to wood on very poor soils the fruit ripens prematurely. Fig orchards should be planted about 20 feet apart and cultivated between the trees till they nearly cover the ground. Never speak of your figs blooming they never flower to the eye and the mode of fruit defying is rather speculation even in the present day. There is something very singular in the fruit defication of the fig. It has no visible flower for the fruit rises immediately in the joints of the tree in the form of little buds with perforation at the end but not opening or showing anything like petals or the ordinary parts of fruit defication. As the fig enlarges the flower comes to maturity and concealment and in eastern countries the fruit is improved by a singular operation called a caprification. This is performed by suspending by thread above the cultivated fig branches to the wild fig which are full of species of synapse. When the insect has become winged it quits the wild fig and penetrates the cultivated ones for the purpose of laying its eggs and thus it appears both to ensure the fruitification by dispersing the pollen and afterwards the hasten ripening by puncturing the pulp and causing the change to the nutrients juices. In France this operation is imitated by inserting straws dipped in olive oil. Library of Entertainment Knowledge Pruning The more you prune the less the crop is proverbial in fruit culture. All that is required is to shorten any irregular or overgrown shoot and cut out dead wood of which more or less will show itself every few years. Filbert Coralus Avalina Noisette French Nespom German The common hazelnut will never be an article of profit to the American gardener or husbandment yet we introduce the subject for some who cultivate for pleasure, variety, and amusement. It is a curious fact that all good things come from the east so does those writers on the Filbert. It comes from Pontus. Thousands grow wild on the braze of Scotland and millions are over the whole United States from Maine to Texas. Cultivation has greatly improved the size but we doubt of the flavor being more delicious. In its wild state is large sized shrub with grey colored bark and roundish heart shaped leaves. The male catkin flowers appear on the preceding years shoots in autumn and wait all winter for the expansion of the female flowers in spring. The varieties and quality are all very similar though considerably different in appearance. The red, white, costford and frizz are sufficient for cultivation. Propagation By layers as directed for figs, by suckers which spring up freely from the roots or by seed that may be purchased at the fruit stores in any of our cities. Culture They like a heavy moist loam and will grow where partially shaded. Plant them 8 to 10 feet apart. Prune is directed for currents merely to check the super abundance growth through them into spur buds for fruiting. End of Section 18 Recorded by Ray Smith, Phoenix, Arizona. Section 19 of the Family Kitchen Gardener This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Jennifer W. The Family Kitchen Gardener by Robert Boyst. Section 19 Gooseberry Ribies Grossellaria Grosse Amacro, French. Stockbestrau, German. This fruit, so extensively cultivated in Britain and also in some parts of this country, is not at all adapted to a southern climate. It is only occasionally that a crop is attained here, even with the best of care. It requires a cool climate or some local cause to attain the perfection for which it is so justly celebrated. It is the native of this country and Europe. We have seen it wild on the Allegheny Mountains and before we see it perfect in culture we must reproduce from our native sorts. It is highly esteemed in culinary purposes for tarts and preserves, and when fully ripe is laxative and considered a very wholesome dessert fruit. The finest crops we have seen in this country were grown in the vicinity of Montreal and the lakes and near Pittsburgh between Allegheny and Monogahela Rivers, over which the smoke of that city of iron continually rolls during June, July and August, which entirely prevents the mildew, the only enemy to the culture of this fruit in this quarter. There are a thousand varieties of it, which may be detailed in reds, whites, yellows and greens, all fancifully named according to the ideas of the growers. They ripen from the middle to the end of July. Propagation. The method is precisely as detailed for currents, both in culture and pruning. In warm seasons, just after rain, some sorts are frequently attacked with mildew, which baffles our skill to prevent, though we may retard its progress by showering them with sulfur water. The cure, however, is nearly as bad as the disease. Mildew makes its appearance about the middle of June in the form of brownish white spots on the fruit. As soon as observed, the berries may at once be pulled for the kitchen or market, for they never get over it, and the longer they hang, the worse they become. It is not soil that is the cause, for we have had them some seasons all destroyed, while last year the same plants and the same ground were as fine as they could be in size, form and flavor. It is an atmospheric disease, and only that. The fruit is in size from half an inch to two inches in diameter. The medium-sized are the best flavored. The very largest have been known to weigh an ounce and a half, but they are uniformly of inferior quality. For flavor, none excel the following. Reds. Red Warrington. Champagne. Roaring Lion. Rough Red. Red Jam. Lancashire Lad. Whites. Queen of Sheba. White Eagle. Venus. White Smith. White Sulfur. Hedgehog. Yellows. Golden Yellow. Early Sulfur. Yellow Ball. Golden Hero. Ashton Yellow. Viper. Greens. Gregory's Perfection. Green Ocean. Green Laurel. Green Gage. Jolly Angler. Green Gas Coin. Grape. Variants. Vinga. French. Weintrauben. Germaning. The culture of the vine is spoken of in the remotest ages. The antediluvians were no doubt perfectly familiar with its growth and manufacture into an intoxicating drink. Providence with a bountiful hand distributes copiously over the earth those fruits which are for the comfort and luxury of man who frequently converts these blessings into a curse, manufacturing with his own hands an engine for his destruction. The practice of not allowing vines to mature till their fourth year was inculcated by Moses who lectured on the subject to the Israelites. The Egyptians ascribed the manufacturer of wine to Osiris and the Grecians to Bacchus whom for the discovery they elevated to the rank of a deity. Pliny described the wine to Osiris and the Greeks to Bacchus whom for the discovery they elevated to the rank of a deity. Pliny describes many kinds of grapes one shaped like a finger which appears to be lost. They had a vine at that period near Rome that annually produced about three barrels of pear juice. In those days young men under thirty and women all their lifetime were forbidden to drink wine. How would these regulations suit the moderns? Plato loved wine. He said nothing more excellent or valuable than wine was ever granted by God to man.  He was tried and acquitted of murder but history does not say whether it was by his gold or a justification in the circumstances that he obtained his freedom. Cato records that the custom of kinfolk kissing women when they meet was to know by their breath if they had been drinking wine. There is no fruit so wholesome none so generally palatable none that can be so universally cultivated and none so remunerating as the grape. Its rapidity of growth, productiveness, long life and simplicity of culture may enable every farmer at least to live literally under his own vine. But there is not a farmer or planter from New York to New Orleans but may cultivate with a very small outlay an abundance of this fruit. I never see long naked post-rail fences but am reminded of the neglect of this fruit. Not that it does not deserve the very best of ground, the most studied culture, but here is a waste of land and the very support that would produce thousands of tons of this inestimable fruit. The extent of its culture in Ohio and other states is rapidly increasing. Ann Longworth, Asquire of Cincinnati, a zealous horticulturist, has one hundred acres under culture which he rents out to Swiss and German vine-dressers who therefrom have an excellent living and make him a bountiful return. The fruit is manufactured into wine and sold from seventy-five cents to a dollar fifty per gallon and the produce of that vicinity is about six hundred barrels. This is merely a drop in the bucket compared with the immense import of the past year. Footnote One After deducting the export, there remains for home consumption five million one hundred and five thousand one hundred and sixty-six gallons at a cost of one million one hundred and thirty-one thousand thirty-eight dollars. For this purpose, their standard grape is the Kataba and other native grapes of which the following are the best. If our own advice could prevail, we would plant only Isabella and Kataba or improve varieties therefrom. Bland or Powell. Color pale red, fruit round, bunch is short, with two or three shoulders when well grown. Flesh pulpy with a half-sweet sub-acid flavor and a little of the peculiar musky tinge characteristic of the fox grape. Foliage pale green underneath and more rounding than any of the following sorts. Kataba. One of the best native grapes. Bunch is rather regularly formed with a few shoulders. Fruit round of a bright red or coppery color when ripe. Flesh pulpy rather juicy and sweet when fully ripe with a musky flavor. Foliage pale green with white down underneath and more reflects than that of the Isabella which it very much resembles. This variety is most esteemed for wine and when fully ripe in my estimation is the best of our native grapes for the table. Though I cannot go so far as to say it is luscious and high-flavored. Elsingboro. Elsingboro. Elsingboro. This grape is native of the sandy soils of New Jersey where it is considered the best of the American grapes. Bunch is small, compact and shouldered, berry small, jet black, round with a thin skin. Flesh without pulp, sweet and well-flavored. Foliage coarse, deeply five-lobed, wood slender, very hardy. Isabella. This variety is hardier than any of the former and may be cultivated as far north as the St. Lawrence. Bunch is long, tapering with very few shoulders. Berry's oval jet black with a fine bloom. Skin thick. Flesh a little pulpy, very sweet with a little touch of the musky flavor. Ripe about the end of September but improves by hanging on the vines till frost. I have repeatedly handed ripe fruit of this grape with that of the Black Hamburg to individuals entirely unacquainted with the flavor of grapes, and they have generally pronounced the Isabella the best and sweetest grape. Foliage large, three-lobed, with a white down underneath. Wood very strong of a brownish-red color. Ohio. Or the Cigar box grape. This variety was brought in to notice by Mr. Longworth of Cincinnati. Its history is rather obscure, though there is no doubt of it being a native. It approaches nearer the Elzingbird than any other we cultivate, but it is not so hardy of that sort. Bunch is long, compact, and tapering with one or two shoulders. Berry's small, round, and jet black with a thin skin. Flesh sweet and well-flavored. The seeds large. Wood strong, shorter-jointed than either the Isabella or Cataba, and requires to be laid in thin, or the fruit rots off before ripening. The plant is rather tender for us, being severely injured with me last winter. All our native grapes ripen from the 1st of September to the 1st of October, but I have found the flavor greatly improved by hanging on the vine as long as possible, keeping clear of frost. There are a few bunches that will weigh one pound. Propagation of the native grape is a very simple process. They will all grow assuredly from layers of the preceding year's wood, or even the wood of the current year. All that is required is merely to bend a chute to the ground, make a hole four inches deep, and place the bend in the chute of it. Covered up firmly with earth, give it frequent waterings and dry weather. In the month of November, it will be fit to cut from the parent to the plant in the vineyard, or any other required locality. When it is planted out, cut it down to about two eyes from the ground. Allow one of those only to grow the following season. It is also propagated by cuttings very generally, though there are some sorts rather shy to root by this method. We also grow them from eyes as directed for foreign vines. Grafting can also be accomplished on the vine. Allow the stalk to grow till it has made a leaf or two, and then take a scion that has been retarded in a cool place, and prepare it either for whip or wedge grafting. By cuttings, shoots of the last season's wood cut into lengths of about a foot long of many of the sorts, and planted into any rich, light soil nearly their whole depth will root in one season, and by care and pruning they will grow into fine plants in two years, when they should be planted out where they are intended to remain. Soil. The native vine will grow in any kind of soil, except that of a wet or clayy nature, and on any exposure and situation except low valleys, where in some season it mildews and drops its fruit. The best soil is a rich and friable loam, under which there is a stony, sandy, or gravelly bottom. They do not require excessively rich soils, but they stand in need of semi-annual dressings with manures or rich composts, and if this is withheld they will deteriorate in quality and quantity. The soil must be properly ameliorated and enriched before planting, and if trenched with a spade or plow, the benefit derived will amply repay the cost. For vineyards plant them six feet apart and eight feet from row to row. Train them to trellises or poles made of red seed or wood or white oak. Eight feet in height for field culture will be sufficient, but for city gardens, where borders of rich soils are prepared for them, they will grow to any height, even to the roof of a five-story dwelling, and there produce excessive crops. Trellises for training may be made of any shape or form, but those that are upright are preferable. Pruning. On the proper execution of this operation greatly depends the prosperity and fruitfulness of the vine. There is frequently so great a mystery thrown around these simple attentions that the timid are afraid to even touch the vine with a knife, while others, whose boldness goes farther than their knowledge, cut right and left with considerable dexterity, feeling satisfied if they show that the wood is at least cut off. To cut the shoots from three to ten eyes of the preceding year's wood, according to its strength, is a good general rule. To put our ideas in tangible form, we will begin with a young plant. As above stated, cut it within two eyes from the ground, from which allow one shoot to grow for the first season, and now call it a plant one year old. If the soil is in good order, it will be fifteen feet long. In November, or before February, cut that shoot to about two feet from the ground and allow three shoots to grow. They will each attain fifteen to twenty feet. It is now two years old. About the same period of the season lay the two lowest of these shoots horizontally and cut them to about twenty inches from the main stem. The most upright cut at about two feet from the stem and allow the plant to make fruits this the third year. Six bunches will be quite enough. The plant being now formed and having made in the fourth season a quantity of branches all covered with fruit, it is advisable to take only one bunch off each and never take more than two. Leading branches will be required for the future plant. These may extend to fill up any given space, but all others must be topped two eyes beyond the fruit. That is, leave on two leaves near the extremity of the shoot than the bunches hang. This topping should be performed early in June, and when they make fresh shoots, top them again and again. The leading shoots must also be topped as soon as they are at their required length. Where vines are needed to cover high arbors or reach the top of dwellings, the shoots in the first and second year may be left from six to ten feet long. Summer pruning is generally very injudiciously performed. The vines are allowed to grow in every form till July or August when they are thinned out and deprived of a great deal of young wood and foliage. At the very time the plants require to have it. Go over the vines in May and deprive them of all the branches that crowd each other. Six inches to twelve apart is proper distance to lay in young wood. Rub off all others using only the finger and thumb in the operation. Tie in the shoots as they advance and top them as soon as they have made two eyes growth beyond the fruit, except the leader is as above intimated. There is nothing in the above that is not perfectly simple and may be put in practice by any farmer along every fence trail. Foreign Grape. This is the viltas vinifera of the botanists, a fruit of the east, where it luxuriates in perfusion being the food and drink of many of the inhabitants of these countries. In these climates it grows without limit, and even under the dry, genial sons of France and the countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea, it attains great perfection. This climate, however, is inimical to its growth, and after bearing a few years it suddenly dies off. Its perfection can only be attained under glass, but with that as a cover and a knowledge of the cause and effect of the disease to which it is subject, will amply repay the attention paid to its culture. For such a purpose we introduce the following varieties. Black Frontinguine. A very rich flavored grape with a peculiar musky flavor, bunches rather small, long and compact berries medium size, thin skin covered with a violet bloom, a good bearer, bunches about one pound in weight. Black Hamburg is the best of all grapes, taking into consideration its combined qualities of productiveness, large size, and fine flavor. Bunches rather tapering with two or three shoulders, making what is called a well-shouldered bunch. Berries large, sometimes four inches in circumference, rather round of a jet black color, but very, very much under different treatment. In a warm, moist, or dry atmosphere, ripening from a pale red to its proper color, skin rather thick. Flesh rich, juicy, and melting. It is a very large bunch, weighing three pounds. Black Prince. If the black Hamburg has a rival, it is in this grape. In this vicinity, growers generally prefer it. Bunches tapering and well-shouldered, berries large of a fine black, not so closely set upon the bunch as the Hamburg. Flesh melting, juicy, and high-flavored. A great bearer, and always colors well.  Wood strong. Charge Herding. A black grape from the south of France, introduced by me four years ago. Bunches long and tapering, berries medium size, colored jet black with a violet bloom. Fresh melting, very juicy, spicy, and sprightly. Flavored succinct from any other grape. A great bearer, either in pots or in the ground. Bunches from a pound to a pound and a half. Chassez-la Golden. White Chassez-la. Royal Muscatine. White Muscatine. Chassez-la de Fontainebleau. With many other names, all belong to two varieties of the grape, very much assimilated, and in which there is great confusion. Bunches long and tapering with one or two shoulders. Berries medium size of a white, changing to bright, transparent golden color when fully exposed to the sun. Flesh tender, melting, rich in sugary. A prolific bearer. We have seen a vine in a pot with twenty-nine bunches of fruit on it. Descartes Superb. A new grape imported by me three years ago, and promises to be the finest white grape we have in culture for size and bearing with an excellent flavor. Bunches large, well-shouldered. Berries perfectly round, three to four inches in circumference and three to four inches in diameter. Flesh and flavor very similar to Hamburg. A strong grower. Muscat of Alexandria. Bunches large as broad as they are long. Berries oval of a fine yellowish white color. Flesh firm with a rich, sweet, musky flavor peculiar to this variety. Few seeds. Requires to be fully transparent before being cut. In fact, it's not ripe until it begins to shovel. Many growers cut it before maturing.  A very strong grower. Muscat blanc catif or early white muscat. A very early sort with well-formed bunches. Berries perfectly round of a yellow white color. Flesh very rich, juicy, spicy and high flavored. A great bearer. Large bunches will weigh a pound and a half. Red fontignon or grizzly fontignon. Bunches large in tapering. Berries perfectly round of a copper or red color. Flesh rich, spicy, juicy and excellent. The best of the grapes. When once tasted, if perfectly ripe, it will not be forgotten. The fruit should hang on the vine till it begins to shrivel.  Wests, St. Peter's or Black Lombardi. Bunches very long, 15 inches of well-grown. Berries round of a dull red color. Closely set, flesh juicy and melting. Will hang on the vine till frost for this is valuable. Foliage very much lobed. Very large branches. Will weigh two and a half to three pounds. A strong grower and great bearer. White fontignon. In character and flavor like the red color of a waxy white with fine powdery bloom on the fruit. White sweet water. Very early. Bunches rather small as is the fruit. Berries round of a pale green transparent. Flesh thin, sugary and sweet. A very distinct sort. Large bunches will weigh one pound. Erections. We here admit that the above described grapes cannot be grown in the open air with any degree of success. We therefore propose to give a simple detail for a cheap and permanent structure for their protection. There are few gardens of any pretensions that have not glass sash for hotbeds, pits, et cetera during winter. By way of economy and to suit those who are parsimonious in rural affairs, we propose erecting a building to suit those sashes which generally remain unemployed during the season from April to November, the very time that the grape vines require their aid. Admit that the sashes of these frames are six feet long and those of the pit are seven feet. These, according to figure twenty-five, will cover a grapevry nine feet high at the back, ten feet wide, and seven feet high in front, allowing two feet for a low front wall or plank. This grapevry may be of any length and can be placed against any wall, building or good permanent fence at very little cost, and from it heavy crops of grapes may be obtained every year. In the winter season the vines are to be laid down after being pruned in any convenient position and protected by hay, straw or boards. In April the vines can be tied up and the sashes put on them whenever they can be spared from the frames and pits. For the admission of air a portion of the sash can be movable and fixed with springs or hooks and staples. Soil. There is very little difference of opinion in regard to the nature of soil, genial to the growth and maturity of the grape. All agree that it should be light and porous on a dry bottom. The great grape growing countries are that of nature and the vineyards are all planted on rising ground or declivities. The various modes of accomplishing this is frequently very ludicrous. A great pit is prepared three to four feet deep filled with one or two feet of stones, bricks and other rough material over which is put a mixture of awful bones, lime and other rich manures with a small portion of good virgin earth. In such receptacles the roots very soon rot, the vines become weak and finally after a few years of meager existence they die as might have been expected. If we could make a choice of locality or even no choice the most appropriate place on ground level would be to plant the vines on the surface or in other words make the vine border above the ground. It would then always be dry and sweet and if too dry water might be given when required. Soils for the growth of this plant must be dry without excessive moisture at any season. The excrementious matter discharged from the roots of the vine is very great and if this be given out in cold retentive soils they soon become diseased and a pale and languid vegetation ensues. If therefore the bottom is not naturally dry make it so by draining. Having obtained a dry bottom by rough materials of any description cover it to the desired height with fresh turf from a rich pasture with a well decomposed manure at least one year old interspersing it with a few bones of any description oyster shells, road scrappings from the turned pike or any other enriching material that undergoes slow decomposition.  Extreme caution has to be used in administering bone dust, slaughterhouse offal and other rich manures especially if the vines are to be planted in the same season. The surface of the soil should have a descent to carry off rains and snows. Never crop vine borders nor tread much upon them. Have a trellis walk laid on the soil for the daily operations of training, tying, pruning, etc. Stir up the surface of the border once a year with the fork and give it a dressing of manure. From these remarks it must not be inferred that the vines will not grow unless in richly prepared soil. They will grow well in poor dry sandy soils and they have annually a good portion of rich vegetable or animal matter dung in them every autumn and the covering of manure during winter, the rains passing through which will strengthen the soil and enable it to give great growths and good crops. Propagation. This is frequently done by layers of which we have given a hint under the culture of native grapes also by cutting of last year's wood. The method of growing fine plants is by the single eye. This is the favorite mode of propagating plants for fruiting. Early in February or March we cut the shoots of the preceding year's wood into eyes, leaving about an inch on each side of the eye. Plant these with their eyes up or most into pots and place them under glass either in cold or hot frames prepared for the purpose or in the window of a warm room where they will be carefully watered. These eyes may easily be made to grow 10 or 12 feet the first season by constant repotting and watering with liquid manure. Plants grown by this method are decidedly the best rooted, forming more capillary fibers, consequently more nutritious support to the vine is absorbed. They form shorter joints and are capable of producing a greater quantity of fruit. We have seen a plant in the Black Hamburg only 18 months from the eye have nine bunches weighing about eight pounds. Transplanting If grape vines have been cultivated in pots, they may be transplanted at any period of the year, though we give preference to the months of October, November, March, or April. Admitting the ground is fully prepared, dig out a place for the reception of the roots 18 inches deep and as wide as the roots require to lay them at their full length without bending or twisting in any manner. If any of them are broken or diseased, cut them off. Keep the roots near the surface. Distributing among them fine earth give each three or four gallons of water allow it to subside when filled up with water and press it down gently with the foot. In such a house as we have figured one plant to each sash will be enough. The back of the house may be planted with figs which should be covered up in winter in the same manner as the vines. It is absolutely necessary for the health of the vine that it should be planted where the sun will fully shine upon it during some hours of the day. We have often observed small vines planted in front of the house where they are entirely shaded from the sun and had to struggle for weeks or months before they reached the full light and air. In such a case it is preferable to grow the plants and pots till they are the required height. The first season's growth should be confined to one stem only, carefully cutting off all lateral shoots within two eyes of the main stem. Winter pruning. This subject is extensively treated on by all riders on the vine in the horticulture of Great Britain and those who have undertaken the subject in this country appear to adopt their words. It may do in some soils and latitudes, but when put in practice here many of the eyes intended for fruiting the coming season start to growth. The error we will take the liberty to point out in the preceding paragraph is to advise the first season's growth to be confined to one stem.  These shoots are to be trained as far as they will grow. The riders say, top them when one third or at farthest halfway up the rafter. If this is done in our climate and the vines are in strong health one half of the eyes below the stoppings and once ruining the vine for one year. Our climate elaborates the juices of the plants so fully that a stoppage of its growth has two results either destroying the roots or causing a greater reproduction of wood which in this case is a decided injury. The next winter cut the weakest shoot to about one eye from the previous year's wood and the strongest lay in two or three feet of the past season's growth. This portion will have 10 or 12 eyes all of which will break and produce fruit. Take only one bunch from each eye the other shoot allow to grow its full length without the fruit during the season. The next winter cut back the strong shoot that has produced the large crop to within two eyes of the old wood and allow one shoot to grow there from. The strong shoot is said to be laid in or cut back two to three feet long for fruiting one shoot to be trained with fruit for the next year's crop. There may be on the vine four shoots or the number required one half of which lay in to fruit every year and cut back the other half for fruiting the following season. This is termed the long cane system and the one we recommend. Spear system of pruning which is exceedingly simple in detail in practice and the largest crops of grapes we have ever seen were from vines trained on this mode. It is as follows allow one shoot to extend from the plant the whole height of the house. If everything is in good order this shoot will be at least three inches round. If under there is a deficiency cut it back and give it another year's growth. If over it the vines are too strong cut this shoot to about four feet of the old wood from the sides of the stem young shoots or spurs push forth which bear fruit. Take only one bunch from each and stop the growth two eyes above the bunches. At each winter pruning these spurs are cut back leaving two or three eyes to each. These again send out other spurs. Take one bunch from each and so continue from year to year and you will have fruit in great abundance though not so fine as on the former method. Footnote Since the above was prepared for the press we have had an interview with one of the best grape growers under glass in the country whose grapeery last year we saw fruit of the finest quality in regard to color size and flavor. He adopts both methods of pruning but greatly prefers the cane training as being the most simple the vine having only one or two wounds made on it the fruit swelling faster coloring better and maturing two weeks before that of the spur pruning where the comparison was fair being without fire heat. He also syringes the vines freely till the fruit is about the size of peas and never afterward. He never saw red spider on his vines and very rarely mildew. Observe that all our remarks apply to grape houses without artificial heat. End of footnote Many err in this system in taking two bunches of fruit from each eye instead of one only. Winter pruning should always be done as soon as the leaves have fallen otherwise the vine is deprived of matter which would have been stored up in the remaining parts. The wood of the present year to one eye as is usually recommended but leave a long spur of three eyes. The eye or bud nearest the old stem is frequently blind and even if it does show fruit it is not so fine as the eyes farther up the chute but be careful to retain the best and rub off the remainder at the earliest stage of growth always encouraging the base bud chute to be retained for the next season's operation. Summer pruning must be strictly adhered to stopping every chute two leaves above the bunch after which laterals or new chutes will soon be produced. These stop again every two weeks and concentrate the energy of the plant on the swelling of the fruit. Thinning the fruit this portion of culture is too frequently neglected. As soon as the berries are the size of small peas cut out about one third of them with a pair of sharp pointed scissors. This will allow the others to swell more freely. Again, before they begin to color if they appear crowded thin out the smallest. This will not reduce the weight of the bunch unless the thinning is carried too extreme. Never touch the fruit after it begins to color. Handling destroys the fine bloom on the fruit which is a point of beauty. Tying up the shoulders does not improve the fruit nor add to the effect. Routine of culture under glass without fire heat As soon as the frosty nights are over clean all the woodwork by washing or whitewashing. Lift up the vines from where they have been laid all winter and wash them with strong soap suds or soft soap and tobacco water rubbing off all the loose bark and cleaning them thoroughly after which tie them up into places appropriate for them. Every morning after they begin to grow give them a syringing with water about an hour after sunrise when the sashes are on the house. If the sashes are not on they do not require it so frequently. About the end of April or the first of May the sashes must necessarily be put on to protect the blossom encourage the growth and prevent injury in cold nights. When the fruit has set the vines may be syringed every afternoon about four o'clock having previously shut up the house not to be opened again until the sun has fairly tempered the atmosphere which will generally be from nine to ten o'clock if the house fronts south when air must be given by the top sashes not allowing the thermometer to go higher than from 90 to 110 degrees. During the warm cloudy days of July and August mildew is sure to appear and has frequently accompanied great destruction before it is discovered. It is readily known by a yellow sticky transparency on the leaf or a greasy soft feel to lay hold of it. The best cure is to give copious syringes of water twice a day giving plenty of air to the house from ten to three o'clock in the sunshine. If it is far gone pour four gallons of boiling water over five pounds of flour or sulfur, stir it well and after allowing it to settle mix a fourth of this water with mien which is used for syringing which will entirely kill all mildew. Never leave the doors open for any length of time. It causes cold drafts of air through the vines. See syringing as soon as the fruit begins to color give water to the roots every week whilst they are in growing state till the fruit has fully swelled. The hints we have thrown out on the culture of this truly luscious fruit will, we think, enable anyone to grow it at least to a small degree of perfection and with a mediocrity of caution and observation good and regular crops may be obtained for either pleasure or profit. End of section 19 Section 20 of the Family Kitchen Gardener. This is a LibriVox recording all LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org The Family Kitchen Gardener by Robert Boost Section 20 Nectarine Armadeles variety Junion French Nectarfischer German I have never considered this fruit to as any other production than a garden variety of the peach from which it is only extinguished by the smoothness of the skin. Many Harley bought descriptions of it have extolled as being finer flavored than the peach if so it has not been our good fortune to have tasted such. On the contrary we consider it an inferior variety of that fruit and of an inferior flavor. Neither will the nectarine ever be so universally cultivated being generally of a smaller size and the smoothness of its skin is favorable to the attacks of the curculio which destroys them in quantities every season stinging the fruit even worse than the plum. And until we can entirely extirpate these animals it will be a scarce fruit in this vicinity. The following five sorts from about 20 will form a select collection. Boston, an American variety by Mr. Lewis of Boston and bought into notice by S.G.R. Perkins, a squire color bright yellow with red cheek a sweet and pleasant flavor large size freestone. Downton, fruit of a greenish white color with a dark red cheek fresh very rich melting and juicy large size and the very best quality freestone. New white is of a creamy white color medium size flesh white rich melting and rather juicy a freestone. Pitmaster orange, fruit medium size of a bright golden yellow color with a red cheek flesh deep yellow melting rich and sweet fine flavor freestone. Red Roman one of the oldest and most celebrated varieties fruit large verly yellowy greenish color with a dull red cheek specked with brown flesh firm pale yellow juicy rich and very highly flavored equal to the Downton but is a cling stone. Violet harteve fruit very similar to the former with a greenish white flesh of freestone. They all ripened from the 1st of August to the 1st of September. Cultivation the soil and culture suitable for the peach perfectly agrees with the nectarine. It is also buttered in the same manner and if practical should always be obtained O.D. the plum stock. Peach Armadullis Persica Persia French Fischbaum German It is to be supposed that every inhabitant of the United States is familiar with the peach. In both flavor and appearance it is legitimately a fruit of this country. They were foreigner and native of Persia where it has been known from the earliest ages. History says it was first sent by the king of Persia into Egypt with the view of poisoning the inhabitants with whom he was then at war. And strange to say most of the ancient risers described this fruit as possessing adulterious qualities. The leaves of the tree however contain prusic acid. In the days of Virgil the fruit has been considered a first rate excellence which very few will dispute. And the peaches of this country are equal to any in the world. With the purposes for which they are used everyone is familiar. They are cultivated in the states of New Jersey and Delaware by the tens of thousands of acres. One family alone employing a steamboat in the peach season to carry their fruit to the market. There are hundreds of varieties cultivated orchards of natural fruits without names. And other orchards of a more profitable character containing only a few very select sports known for their superior merits. The following 20 kinds we notice being such will we will not deny that there may be others equally as good in other parts of the country unknown to us. Albege or yellow rare ripe Colour bright yellow, red cheek round form, large size ripe early in August 3. Columbia, colour brownish yellow, striped red round form, large size ripe about the middle of September 3. Early mollicotton corfits, colour brownish yellow, red cheek, olive form, ripe 15th of August 3. Early York, colour of dark red, round form, medium size, excellent quality a great bearer, ripe 10th of August 3. Foxes seedly, colour greenish white, red cheek, round form, large size, ripe early in September. Favourite Reeves, colour yellowish red, round form, ripe early in September 3. George IV, colour greenish white, red cheek, round form, large size, ripe end of August 3. Grossmignon or Royal George with about 20 other names is a large round peach rather flattened. Colour greenish yellow, a mottled red cheek, flesh white, red at the stone. The first peach we become familiar with and have seen at 11.5 inches in circumference ripe in August 3. Imperial Derby, colour yellow brown with a dull red cheek, round form, ripe middle of September 3. Late Heath, colour white, fate red cheek oval form, ripe in October, cling Late Moroccan, Crawford's, colour dull yellow, dark red cheek, roundish form, ripe 12th to the 25th of September 3. Lagrange, colour greenish white, oval form, ripe 10th of September, free. Morris White, colour pure white, oval form, ripe early in September, free. Nomperal, Scots, dull yellow, red cheek, roundish form, ripe 15th of September, free. Old Mixon, free, colour dull red, over form, ripe early in September. Old Mixon, cling, colour dull red, round form, ripe early in September. Red Cheek, melanchoton, colour yellow, green, dull red cheek, olive form, ripe 18th of September, free. Red Rare, ripe, colour greenish white, dark red cheek, oval form, ripe end of August, free. Toddman's, red, colour dull red, over form, ripe end of September and 1st of October, cling. Tipper Canoe, colour bright yellow, with red cheek, over form, ripe 10th to the 20th of September, cling. Propagation, this is of the simplest character. It is usually performed by planting the stones or pits in November, about 2 inches deep, in rich, light or sandy soil. These nearly all vegetate in the spring and can be buttered following September or about the end of August. They are then headed down close to the bud, early in the spring. When they will make a growth of from free to 9 feet in first season, with lateral branches all up the stem. In some parts of Ohio, Kentucky and Mississippi, the stones are planted in November, but at the end of the following June, headed down in July, and make a growth of 4 to 6 feet or within one year of the stone being planted. These operations are all performed on the peat stone. The tree is consequently short-lived, but being so readily replaced, that is not generally considered of much consequence. However, we would prefer budding for our own use on the plum stock. The tree will live half a century thereon and will not be subject to the borer, which is a great enemy to the peat stock. Planting. If we wish to reap the fruit, we must prepare the soil. As the foundation is laid, so will the erection stand. Plow or dig your soil deep, manure well the year previously. Plant your trees 20 feet apart, which will take 100 to the acre. Our remarks on planting apples will apply here. Cultivate the ground with a light crop, giving manure every two years. Pruning. This is very indefinitely attended to in the peach. The trees are allowed to grow at random, long, straggling branches with the fruit at the extremity, bending them to the ground and never thinned out. The result is the first storm breaks half of the limbs and the fruit does not grow over half its size, ripening prematurely and commanding about one third the price of a full-grown well-ripened fruit. It is 20 years since we pruned peach trees in the same manner as we have described for current bushes, keeping the young wood thin and shortening every growth in the fall or winter pruning. The trees are thereby made more compact, not so liable to be broken and produce finer fruit. The beauty of the tree is improved and the sage lengthened. The borer or peach worm is very destructive to this tree. This insect, according to say, is a dark blue four-winged slender moth depositing its egg during the summer month around the tree, close to the surface of the ground. Ashes have been long used as a protective against this destroyer with very good effect. And recently, half a pack of air-slaked lime heaped around the tree during the month of May is considered as a perfect antidote, effectively securing the tree against its enemy. The lime has spread over the ground after the fall of the leaf, and a fresh supply given every year at the above period. There is a disease called the yellows, very prevalent in some orchards, which is attributed to a variety of causes. The main one we presume will be found in ungenual soil and overcropping of the trees. We say thin out the crop do not allow one fruit to be within 2 inches of its neighbour. Shorten the young growths of the tree by winter pruning and cut out others when they are too thick, thereby giving plenty of air to all parts of the tree. Maneure every other year and crop light. With such a routine of culture the yellows will be a stranger. Trees that produce a crop of fruit which is yearly carried off the ground must have some return by enriching the soil, either by soil or from the stable yard or rich composts of lime, mal, plaster, etc. Pear, Paris, communes, Paris, French, Bimbalm, German. The present period is a very exciting one on the culture of this fruit, which ranks in flavour next to the peach, but in point of healthiness and the general utility for the domestic purposes it will be second to the apple. It is equally disseminated with that fruit, but we doubt if its culture ever being so universal, it being more subject to diseases especially to blight. Some soils are entirely noxious to it, while others nourish it to an extreme old age. It is also longer in coming to a fruit-bearing state than the apple, though some of the recent kinds appear to produce fruit as early as three or fourth year from the bud, and frequently the second year from the graft. As a dessert or table fruit, it is preferable to the apple, and is also very important for cooking purposes. In some countries, pear is made from the fruit in the same manner that we do cider, for which purpose there are special productive varieties. Within the past twenty years, the immense multiplication of sorts renders it a very intricate task to select from the multitude a few well adapted for general food, because the variety that does best in some sections of the country nearly fails in others, and those that are described from the fruit as being the best in size and flavour, on trial proved to be the worst in productiveness. One of the most celebrated horticulturists of the age who does all his own thinking, writing to me from Boston, September 20th, 1846 said, there is in my view too much of a rage for new fruits, and the old superior varieties are neglected, of pears they have here near 200 varieties and possibly 20 of fair quality. I will however give an outline description of a few slightly transcending that limited number, and vouch for all of them being of the very best. Summer pears Madeleine Fruit pear shaped rather under the medium size with a long foot stalk, colour pale yellow green, flesh white very rich, juicy and highly favoured, a great bearer, ripe 20th of July, blood good, fruit rounding flat at the eye, medium size, colour yellow with a brown cheek, flesh yellowish white rich and sugary with a fine aromatic flavour, ripe the 1st of August, julienne fruit rather under medium size, over form, colour bright yellow, flesh buttery and suey, ripe early in August, fruit should be plucked a few days before ripe, Tyson, fruit medium size, pyramidal in form, colour dull greenish yellow, flesh white sweet melting and very juicy, with a most delightful flavour, ripe from the 15th to the 25th of August. I figure of this variety is given in Hovey's magazine for November 1846, but much too small for the general size of the fruit. The original tree now over 50 years of age stands in Jenkins Town, PA, and measures 6 feet in circumference at 3 feet from the ground, and is a notable specimen of a strong upright growth. The fruit has been sold in Philadelphia market for nearly 20 years, but until recently very little notice has been taken of it. We would like to taste the finer earlier pear than this. Moyer Mencing Fruit full, medium size of a roundish oval form, lemon colour with occasional bluchers and lines of russet, flesh buttery, melting and well-flavoured, in eating from the middle of July to the end of August, originated in the garden of J.B. Smith Square of this place. Washington, another American pear of first rate quality. Fruit medium size oval form of a pale straw colour covered with brown dots, flesh firm white, melting and juicy, ripe end of August and first of September. Downing's figure of this fruit in description is perfectly accurate, though there is plenty of evidence to show that this tree must have been known 40 years ago. I have seen grafted trees about 10 feet high and a stem 4 feet in circumference. Bartlett, fruit very large regular pyramidal form. Colour pale lemon yellow with a faint plush next to the skin. Fruit is very juicy, buttery and high-flavoured, ripe first of September. Autumn Pear, secal, fruit under medium size, colour of a brownish yellow with a plush next to the sun. Flash yellowish white, juicy rich and culinally high-flavoured. In rich loamy soil the fruit is medium-sized. A parent tree still lives about 3 miles from Philadelphia, ripe about the first of September. Butter, all white toyan with about 25 other names. Fruit over medium size, very regularly formed round oval. Colour greenish yellow with a plush cheek. Flash white, fine, buttery flavour juicy and rich. Ripe, 20th to the 25th of September varies much in different soils. Burr, the capimod fruit under medium size, regularly formed. Colour pale yellow with a dull red cheek. Flash buttery sweet melting and high-flavoured. Ripe in September or early October. Burr, basque fruit large, regularly pyramidal colour brownish yellow with a reddish brown cheek. Flash white, melting rich and highly perfumed flavour. Ripe from September to the end of October and noble fruit. Fondant d'autom fruit medium sized half oval, colour yellowish green slightly russeted. Flash very juicy, rich and delicious. Ripe in September. We have not seen this fruit, but give it place from the high character given it to it by MP Wilder Esquire. President of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society who is one of the best judges. Burr D'El. Fruit large of noble form. Colour pale yellow when fully ripe dotted with brown. Flash yellowish white, rich, sugary and high-flavoured. Ripe from September to the end of November. Murray Louise fruit fully medium sized colour greenish yellow with russeted cheek. Flash white, very battery rich and high-flavoured. Ripe from September to October we have had large crops of this fruit on trees only eight feet high. Duchess d'Angeline fruit very large long oval with an uneven surface. Ripe from October to October with a oval greenish yellow. Flash white, battery very rich and high-flavoured. Ripe in October and November and was frequently over one pound weight. Dix and American fruit large pyramidal form colour dull yellow dotted with russet. Flash rich, juicy sugary and melting, ripe in October. Urbanisus fruit medium size pyramidal form. Colour greyish yellow flesh yellowish white rich melting, very juicy and highly-flavoured. Ripe in October and November. Winter pears, Columbia and American fruit very large oval form colour pale greenish yellow. Flesh white, melting juicy and sweet aromatic flavour. Ripe November to December. Burda Arkenburg fruit above medium size oval form with an uneven surface. Flesh white, rich melting and luscious flavour. Ripe in November and December. Shermantel fruit large oval form with an irregular surface. Colour yellowish green with a brownish red cheek. Flesh melting, buttery sweet and luscious flavour. Ripe November to January. Glute morceau fruit large regular of a long oval form. Colour pale greenish yellow. Flesh white, smooth rich and sugary. Ripe December to January. Lawrence this peculiar variety originated on Long Island fruit above medium size rather oval. Colour pale yellowish green spotted with brown. Flesh yellowish white melting juicy very rich and sugary flavour. Downing on fruits. We have not seen this fruit but being informed by the Mrs Parsons of Flushing that some of the fruit begins to ripen in November while others continue to ripen until March. Passe Colmar with about 20 other names. Fruit of regular pear shaped colour yellowish green with a brownish russet. Flesh creamy white with a buttery rich juicy aromatic flavour. Ripe in December. Winter Nels fruit medium size roundish form. Flesh yellowish greenish yellow with a russety cheek. Flesh yellowish white smooth buttery are bounding in a rich aromatic juice. Ripe in December and January. Bur Easter fruit large oval form colour yellowish brownish green with a russety cheek. Flesh white smooth buttery juicy and very sweet. Ripe in January, February and March. Bur the rangs fruit above medium size with a long pyramidal shape. Colour rough dark green rather untempting. Flesh greenish white milking rich and juicy. Ripe in March, April and May. Propagation and Culture The pear like the apple is propagated by seeds budding or grafting. By the former process many new sorts have made their appearance in this country and Europe of a very superior quality within the past 20 years. Those from the United States are not surpassed in their season by any others and should always have the preference when plantations are made. Their constitution and productiveness being acclimatised. There is not likely any disappointment to arrive from barrenness or other defects. There has within a few years past there risen up amongst us some general pomological spirits that will bring in to note as many native sorts of this fruit that are present either obscure or entirely unknown. It can be grafted or budded with great success on its own stock and also on the quince and with partial success on the apple. Grafting early in spring and budding in July and August every pear tree of an inferior description should be headed down or cut back in the branches within a few feet of the stem in that and more productive sorts. The new kinds will produce fruit at once. The result would be instead of pears being worth 25 cents per bushel they would be at least worth 12 times that amount. Planting the pear is precisely as described for the apple though they will admit of being as close as 25 or 30 feet. The finest trees we know grow on a low mist soil 3 feet deep with a sandy gravelly bottom. The worst soil we have observed them on is composed of a sandy thin light nature with a cold or wet bottom. Pruning This tree in the first few years of its growth after being transplanted requires the aid of the knife in directing the formation of its head for when once formed it requires no further care and has to keep the interior of the head thinned out to allow a free circulation of air. Avoid making large amputations when pruning. The saw and the axe are dangerous implements in the hands of unskillful orchidists. Blight is the only disease in this country that attacks the pear. Its remedies are not yet fully tested and at present are very conflicting and unsatisfactory. The fact that in some situations they are more subject to others shows conclusively I think that it is a local and not an atmospheric disease. The insect blight appears in July and August and frequently has done much mischief before being detected. Hold limbs dying as it were instantly. Remedy Examine your trees frequently in those months and as soon as you detect any of the limbs with the leaves having the dripping appearance and then have it all together different from the other portions of the tree, cut it off close to the main limb and have it destroyed. The insect has girdled the pith and prevented the circulation of the sap, gathering the fruit. Rather more attention ought to be given to the collecting and keeping the fruit of the pear tree than is generally received. All summer fruit should be pulled a few days before maturity and put carefully away either in a fruit room or closet until it ripens. Autumn fruit should be gathered eight days before being ripened, put away in cotton, paper or other dry materials in the dark. They will thereby improve in colour and flavour and will be in use longer. Winter fruit should hang on the tree till frost, then be carefully pulled and put away for two weeks when they should be wiped with a cloth rolled up in cotton or paper, packed in boxes or barrels of dry sand and stored in a dry cellar or room, where they will not be severely frozen. Their flavour and colour is greatly improved by this method. In the winter seasons fruit should be brought into a warm apartment a few days before using keeping it invariably in the dark. For some species of the plum found in Asia, Europe and America, it is an ancient fruit held in high estimation by the Romans, who amused themselves as history says by grafting the plum onto the apple. We are not surprised that these are nother notions for current in the present age that black roses can be obtained by budding on black current bushes. When they grow, no doubt they will be black. It is not acknowledged to be a first class healthy fruit, though it is admitted they will not injure strong constitutions. When perfectly ripe, a few can be eaten to advantage as they tend to keep the system open. The bark of the wild plum is used as a substitute for Peruvian bark in cases of intermittent fever. The fruit is considered indispensable as a conserve. Nothing of the kind can equal green gauge jelly and preserve Washington plums. The following are indispensable for a good collection. Black as gauge, raised in the state of New York, fruit oval of medium size, culley yellow with white specks. Flesh yellow very rich and luscious, ripe about the 10th of September and will keep till October. A cling will not do for preserving. Columbia, a New York seedling, fruit very large avoid fine form, colour brownish purple with numerous specks. Flesh orange if perfectly ripe, rich in sugaring. Free, ripe about end of August, downing. Imperial gauge or flushing gauge, raised at Prince's nursery flushing. Fruit oval medium size, colour green tinge with yellow next to sun. Flesh yellowish green, rich, juicy and delicious, free ripe about the 24th of July. Green gauge or renais clorde the plum of plums, fruit rather undersized, colour greenish yellow. Flesh green very rich, juicy, melting and very luscious. A great bearer freestone, ripe about the 10th of August. Huling superb. A native of this country. Fruit very large, round oval, colour greenish yellow. Flesh same colour, firm, rich and well flavoured. A great bearer freestone. An excellent table or kitchen fruit, ripe 4th of August. Morocco. Fruit round, medium size, colour dark violet purple. Flesh yellow, juicy, sharp and well flavoured, ripe about the 24th of July. Nectarine or caladonian. Fruit very large, oval, colour purple with a fine bloom. Flesh yellow, rich and a sharp flavour. Ripe about the 8th of August. Orlians early. Fruit round, medium size, flesh greenish yellow, colour marbled red with a purple cheek. Sharp rich flavour, a freestone. A great bearer. Ripe about the 1st of August. Jefferson. An Albany ceiling and according to report we have not seen it one of the finest sorts. Fruit large, fine, oval form, colour gold yellow with a red cheek. Flesh deep orange, very rich, juicy and highly flavoured. Parts freely from the stone. Ripe about the 25th of August. Purple gauge. Fruit round, medium size, colour reddish crimson dotted. Flesh pale orange, rich, juicy and high flavoured. A freestone. Ripe about the 15th of September. Quetsch or German prune. Fruit very large, regularly oval, colour dark blue violet when fully ripe. The skin separates very redly from the flesh and makes a first rate dessert or kitchen fruit. Ripe about the 10th of September. Imperatrice. Fruit oval above medium size, colour deep purple covered with bloom. Flesh firm, rich and sugary adhering to the stone ripe about the 1st of October. Washington. Balmers. A New York ceiling fruit very large. Round oval colour dulled greenish yellow. Flesh yellow, firm sweet and luscious separating redly from the stone. Ripe about the 15th of August. Wine sour. Fruit medium size, round oval, colour purple. Flesh bright red exceedingly juicy. A great bearer and the best plum for cooking, ripe in September. He must be conceded that the character of the plum is in some measure choice, good or indifferent according to situation, climate and soil. Yet we contend that bad soil and situation would not entirely obliterate the good qualities of a choice fruit. Culture. The best foil for the plum is strong lourmy soil on a dry bottom. In such they grow well and produce fine crops. Plant them at 25 feet apart if in the orchard. But for a family use they should be planted on some paved yard or other situation where the fallen fruit will be carefully destroyed. If the general nature of the soil is sandy it will be benefited by a compost of very old manure and meadow-earth in equal proportions being incorporated with it where the trees are to be planted. Propagation is done with the greatest facility by planting the stones in the month of October about an inch deep. These vegetate the following season and can be transplanted into a convenient part of the garden in rows to rebut the second year in the month of July in a period of cloudy moist weather. They can also be grafted very early in spring by either whip or wedge grafting as recommended for the fruit, but it must be observed that stone fruit does not take so readily by grafting as budding. Useless varieties of the plum should be cut back as advised for the pear. They will then make vigorous shoots a portion of which can be saved and budded with choice varieties. When there is not much room in a variety of fruit wanted we strongly advise several sorts of fruit to be worked on one tree. By adopting this practice with all kinds of fruit trees a great variety obtained in a very small space. In favorable soils their growth is rapid. There is within 50 feet of where I write a tree 13 years from the stone that is budded with four sorts produces a large crop every season is now 30 feet high and 2 feet from the ground the stem measures 3 feet in circumference. Pruning is performed as directed for pears but large amputation should only be made in July or August or September. At that period the wounds will readily heal over. Insects the great and only foe of this tree is the cuculio or plum weevil. A preventive to us ravages has not been discovered. We observe trees planted in pavements or near to dwellings are not so subject to its attack as those in cultivated grounds or gardens. Some kinds are also more subject to it than others. With us the following are entirely destroyed by it. Coals golden drop, magnum borums, coax late red and bingum while the green gauge morocco, wine, sail, orleons and washington are not all but slightly injured. As a cure 15 or 20 pounds of salt or salt brine is strongly recommended by some. It is laid under the tree early in autumn. This is to destroy the insects which lie under the surface of the ground or winter. Repeated doses of this will destroy them. End of section 20