Section 8 of the Book of Household Management. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Kalinda. The Book of Household Management by Isabella Beaton. Recipes. Chapter 6, Part 1. Fruit and Vegetable Soups. It will be seen, by reference to the following recipes, that an entirely original and most intelligible system has been pursued in explaining the preparation of each dish. We would recommend the young housekeeper cook, or whoever may be engaged in the important task of getting ready the dinner, or other meal, to follow precisely the order in which the recipes are given. Thus, let them first place on their table all the ingredients necessary, then the modus operandi, or mode of preparation, will be easily managed. By a careful reading, too, of the recipes, there will not be the slightest difficulty in arranging a repass for any number of persons, and an accurate notion will be gained of the time the cooling of each dish will occupy, of the periods at which it is seasonable, as also of its average cost. The addition of the natural history and the description of the various properties of the edible articles in common use in every family, will be serviceable both in a practical and an educational point of view. Speaking specially of the recipes for soups, it may be added that by the employment of the best medium or common stock, the quality of the soups and their cost may be proportionately increased or lessened. Stocks for all kinds of soups Rich strong stock 104.  Cut up the beef and veal in pieces about 3 inches square and lay them on the ham. Set it on the stove and draw it down and stir frequently. When the meat is equally browned, put in the beef and veal bones, the poultry trimmings, and pour in the cold water. Skim well and occasionally add a little cold water to stop its boiling until it becomes quite clear. Then put in all the other ingredients and simmer very slowly for 5 hours. Do not let it come to a brisk boil that the stock be not wasted and that its color may be preserved. Strain through a very fine hair sieve or tammy and it will be fit for use. Time 5 hours Average cost 1 shilling 3 pence per quart Medium stock 105 Ingredients 4 pounds of shin of beef or 4 pounds of knuckle of veal or 2 pounds of each Any bones, trimmings of poultry or fresh meat A half a pound of lean bacon or ham 2 ounces of butter 2 large onions each stuck with 3 cloves 1 turnip, 3 carrots, half a leek 1 head of celery 2 ounces of salt Half a teaspoon full of whole pepper 1 large blade of mace 1 small bunch of savory herbs 4 quarts and a half pint of cold water Mode Cut up the meat and bacon or ham into pieces about 3 inches square Rub the butter on the bottom of the stew pan Put in half a pint of water, the meat and all the other ingredients Cover the stew pan and place it on a sharp fire occasionally stirring its contents When the bottom of the pan becomes covered with a pale jelly-like substance Add 4 quarts of cold water and simmer very gently for 5 hours As we have said before, do not let it boil quickly Skim off every particle of grease while stood as doing and strain it through a fine hair sieve This is the basis of many of the soups afterwards mentioned and will be found quite strong enough for ordinary purposes Time, 5 and a half hours Average cost, 9 pence per quart Economical stock 106 Ingredients The liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled, say, 4 quarts Trimmings of fresh meter poultry, shank bones, etc. Roast beef bones, any pieces the larder may furnish Vegetables, spices, and the same seasoning as in the foregoing recipe Mode Let all the ingredients simmer gently for 6 hours taking care to skim carefully at first Strain it off and put by for use Time, 6 hours Average cost, 3 pence per quart White stock, to be used in the preparation of white soups 107 Ingredients 4 pounds of knuckle of veal Any poultry trimmings 4 slices of lean ham 1 carrot 2 onions 1 head of celery 12 white peppercorns 1 ounce of salt 1 blade of mace 1 ounce butter 4 quarts of water Mode Put up the veal and put it with the bones and trimmings of poultry and the ham into the stew pan which has been rubbed with butter Moisten with half a pint of water and simmer till the gravy begins to flow Then add the 4 quarts of water and the remainder of the ingredients Simmer for 5 hours After skimming and straining it carefully through a very fine hair sieve it will be ready for use Time, 5 and a half hours Average cost, 9 pence per quart When stronger stock is desired double the quantity of veal or put in an old fowl The liquor in which a young turkey has been boiled is an excellent addition to all white stock or soups Browning for stock 108 Ingredients 2 ounces of powdered sugar and half a pint of water Mode Place the sugar in a stew pan over a slow fire until it begins to melt keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until it becomes black Then add the water and let it dissolve Cork closely and use a few drops when required Note In France, burnt onions are made use of for the purpose of browning As a general rule the process of browning is to be discouraged as apt to impart a slightly unpleasant flavor to the stock and consequently all soups made from it To clarify stock 109 Ingredients The whites of 2 eggs half a pint of water 2 quarts of stock Mode Supposing that by some accident the soup is not quite clear and that its quantity is 2 quarts take the whites of 2 eggs carefully separated from their yolks whisk them well together with the water and add gradually the 2 quarts of boiling stock still whisking Place the soup on the fire and when boiling and well skimmed whisk the eggs with it until nearly boiling again Then draw it from the fire and let it settle until the whites of the eggs should become separated pass through a fine cloth and the soup should be clear Note The rule is that all clear soups should be of a light straw color and should not savor too strongly of the meat and that all white or brown thick soups should have no more consistency then will enable them to adhere slightly to the spoon when hot All puree should be somewhat thicker Almond soup 110 Ingredients 4 pounds of lean beef or veal half a scrag of mutton 1 ounce of vermicelli 4 blades of mace 6 cloves half a pound of sweet almonds the yolks of 6 eggs 1 gill of thick cream rather more than 2 quarts of water Mode Boil the beef or veal and the mutton gently in water that will cover them till the gravy is very strong and the meat very tender then strain off the gravy and set it on the fire with the specified quantities of vermicelli mace and cloves to 2 quarts let it boil till it has the flavor of the spices have ready the almonds blanched and pounded very fine the yolks of the eggs boiled hard mixing the almonds whilst pounding with a little of the soup lest the latter should grow oily pound them till they are a mere pulp and keep adding to them by degrees a little soup until they are thoroughly mixed together let the soup be cool when mixing and do it perfectly smooth strain it through a sieve set it on the fire stir frequently and serve hot just before taking it up add the cream time 3 hours average cost per quart 2 shillings 3 pence seasonable all the year sufficient for 8 persons illustration almond and blossom the almond tree this tree is indigenous to the northern parts of Asia and Africa but it is now cultivated in Europe especially in the south of France Italy and Spain it flowers in spring and produces its fruit in August although there are two kinds of almonds the sweet and the bitter they are considered as only varieties of the same species the best sweet almonds brought to England are called the Syrian or Jordan and come from Malaga the inferior qualities are brought from Valencia and Italy bitter almonds come principally from Magadori anciently the almond was much esteemed by the nations of the east Jacob included it among the presents which he designed for Joseph the Greeks called it the Greek or Thasian nut and the Romans believed that by eating half a dozen of them they were secured against drunkenness however deeply they might imbibe almonds however are considered as very indigestible the bitter contain two principles which produce two violent poisons prusic acid and a kind of volatile oil it is consequently dangerous to eat them in large quantities almonds pounded together with a little sugar and water however produce a milk similar to that which is yielded by animals their oil is used for making fine soap and their cake as a cosmetic apple soup 111 ingredients two pounds of good boiling apples three quarters teaspoonful of white pepper six cloves, cayenne or ginger to taste three quarts of medium stock mode peel and quarter the apples taking out their cores put them into the stock, stew them gently till tender rub the whole through a strainer, add the seasonings give it one boil up and serve time one hour average cost per quart, one shilling seasonable from September to December sufficient for ten persons illustration, apple and blossom the apple this useful fruit is mentioned in holy writ and Homer describes it as valuable in his time it was brought from the east by the Romans in the highest estimation indeed some of the citizens of the eternal city distinguished certain favorite apples by their names thus the manlands were called after manlias the claudians after claudias and the apians after apias others were designated after the country once they were brought as the cityans the epirodes and the Greeks the best varieties are native of Asia and have by grafting them upon others been introduced into Europe the crab found in our hedges the only variety indigenous to Britain therefore for the introduction of other kinds we are no doubt indebted to the Romans in the time of the Saxon Heptarchy both Devin and Somerset were distinguished as the apple country and there are still existing in Herefordshire some tree said to have been planted in the time of William the Conqueror from that time to this the varieties of this precious fruit have gone on increasing and are now said to number upwards of 1,500 it is peculiar to the temperate zone being found neither in Lapland nor within the tropics the best baking apples for early use are the coalfills the best for autumn are the rennits and pyrameins and the best for winter and spring are russets the best table or eating apples are the margarits for early use the kentish codlin and summer pyramid for summer and for autumn winter or spring the doubton, golden and other pippins as the ribstone with small russets as a food the apple cannot be considered to rank high as more than the half of it consists of water and the rest of its properties are not the most nourishing it is however a useful adjunct to other kinds of food and when cooked is esteemed as slightly laxative artichoke, Jerusalem soup a white soup 112, ingredients three slices of lean bacon or ham half ahead of celery one turnip, one onion three ounces of butter two chokes one pint of boiling milk or half a pint of boiling cream salt and cayenne to taste two lumps of sugar two and a half quarts of white stock mode put the bacon and vegetables which should be cut into thin slices into the stew pan with the butter braise these for a quarter of an hour keeping them well stirred wash and pair the artichokes and after cutting them into thin slices when these have gently stewed down to a smooth pulp put in the remainder of the stock stir it well adding the seasoning and when it has simmered for five minutes pass it through a strainer now pour it back into the stew pan let it again simmer five minutes taking care to skim it well and stir it to the boiling milk or cream serve with small snippets of bread fried in butter time one hour average cost per quart one shilling two pence seasonable from June to October sufficient for eight persons asparagus soup one one thirteen, ingredients five pounds of lean beef three slices of bacon half a pint of pale ale a few leaves of white beet, spinach one cabbage lettuce a little mint, sorrel and marjoram a pint of asparagus tops cut small the crust of one french roll turning to taste, two quarts of water put the beef cut in pieces and rolled in flour into a stew pan with the bacon at the bottom cover it close and set it on a slow fire, stirring it now and then until the gravy is drawn put in the water and ale and season to taste with pepper and salt and let it stew gently for two hours then strain the liquor and take off the fat and add the white beet, spinach, cabbage lettuce and mint, sorrel and sweet marjoram pounded let these boil up in the liquor then put in the asparagus tops cut small and allow them to boil till all is tender serve hot with the french roll in the dish time, all together three hours average cost per quart one shilling nine pence seasonable from May to August sufficient for eight persons two one fourteen, ingredients one and a half pints of split peas a teacup full of gravy four young onions one lettuce cut small half a head of celery half a pint of asparagus cut small half a pint of cream three quarts of water color the soup with spinach juice boiled the peas and rub them through a sieve add the gravy and then stew by themselves the celery, onions, lettuce and asparagus with the water after this stew all together and add the coloring and cream and serve time these two and a half hours, vegetables one hour all together four hours average cost per quart, one shilling illustration asparagus asparagus the ancients called all the sprouts of young vegetables asparagus whence the name which is now limited to a particular species embracing artichoke, aliceander asparagus, cardoon, rampion and sea kale they are originally mostly wild sea coast plants and in this state asparagus may still be found in the northern as well as southern shores of Britain it is often vulgarly called in London sparrow grass and in its cultivated form hardly bears any resemblance to the original plant immense quantities of it are raised for the London market at Mortlake and Deptford but it belongs rather to the classes of luxurious than necessary food it is light and easily digested but it is not very nutritious baked soup 115 1 pound of any kind of meat any trimmings or odd pieces 2 onions, 2 carrots 2 ounces of rice 1 pint of split peas pepper and salt to taste 4 quarts of water cut the meat and vegetables in slices add to them the rice and peas seasoned with pepper and salt put the whole in a jar fill up with water cover very closely and bake for 4 hours time 4 hours average cost 2.5 pence per quart seasonable at any time sufficient for 10 or 12 persons note, this will be found a very cheap and wholesome soup and will be convenient in those cases where baking is more easily performed than boiling barley soup 116, ingredients 2 pounds of shin of beef 1 quarter pound of pearl barley a large bunch of parsley 4 onions, 6 potatoes salt and pepper, 4 quarts of water mode put in all the ingredients and simmer gently for 3 hours time 3 hours average cost 2.5 pence per quart seasonable all the year but more suitable for winter illustration, barley barley this in the order of cereal grasses is in Britain the next plant to wheat in point of value and exhibits several species and varieties from what country it comes originally is not known but it was cultivated in the earliest ages of antiquity as the Egyptians were afflicted with the loss of it in the ear in the time of Moses it was a favorite grain with the Athenians but it was esteemed as an ignominious food by the Romans notwithstanding this however it was much used by them as it was in former times by the English and still is in the border countries in Cornwall and also in Wales in other parts of England it is used mostly for malting purposes it is less nutritive than wheat and in 100 parts has of starch 79, gluten 6 saccharin matter 7, husk 8 it is however a lighter and less stimulating food than wheat which renders a decoction of it well adapted for invalids whose digestion is weak bread soup, economical 117, ingredients 1 pound of bread crusts 2 ounces butter 1 stalk boiled the bread crusts in the stock with the butter beef the whole with a spoon and keep it boiling till the bread and stock are well mixed season with a little salt time, half an hour average cost per quart 4 pence seasonable at any time sufficient for 4 persons note, this is a cheap recipe and will be found useful where extreme economy is an object illustration, quern brining mill bread the origin of bread is involved in the obscurity of distant ages the Greeks attributed it's invention to Pan but before they themselves had an existence it was no doubt in use among the primitive nations of mankind the Chaldeans and the Egyptians were acquainted with it and Sarah the companion of Abraham mixed flour and water together needed it and covered it with ashes on the hearth the scriptures inform us that leavened bread was known to the Israelites it is not known when the art of fermenting it was discovered it is said that the Romans learned it during their wars with Perseus king of Macedon and that it was an introduced to the imperial city about 200 years before the birth of Christ with them it no doubt found it's way into Britain but after their departure from the island it probably ceased to be used we know that King Alfred allowed the unfermented cakes to burn in the nethered's cottage and that even in the 16th century unfermented cakes needed by the women were the only kind of bread known to the inhabitants of Norway and Sweden the Italians of this day consumed the greater portion of their flour in the form of palenta or soft pudding from celli and macaroni and in the remote districts of Scotland much unfermented bread is still used we give a cut of the corn grinding mill which towards the end of the last century was in use in that country and which is thus described by Dr. Johnson in his journey to the Hebrides it consists of two stones about a foot and a half in diameter the lower is a little convex to which the concavity of the upper must be fitted in the middle of the upper stone is a round hole and on one side is a long handle the grinder sheds the corn gradually into the hole with one hand and works the handle round with the other the corn slides down the convexity of the lower stone and by the motion of the upper is ground in its passage such a primitive piece of machinery it may safely be said has entirely disappeared from this country in other parts of this work we shall have opportunities of speaking of bread and bread making which from its great and general use in the nourishment of mankind has emphatically been called the staff of life the necessity therefore of having it both pure and good is of the first importance cabbage soup 118 ingredients one large cabbage three carrots, two onions four or five slices of lean bacon salt and pepper to taste the stock scald the cabbage, exit it up and drain it line the stew pan with bacon put in the cabbage, carrots and onions moisten with skimmings from the stock and simmer very gently till this cabbage is tender add the stock stew softly for half an hour and carefully skim off every particle of fat season and serve time, one and a half hours average cost, one shilling per quart seasonable in winter sufficient for eight persons illustration, cabbage seeding the cabbage it is remarkable that although there is no country in the world now more plentifully supplied with fruits and vegetables than Great Britain yet the greater number of these had no existence in it before the time of Henry VIII Anderson, writing under the date of 1548 says the English cultivated scarcely any vegetables before the last two centuries at the commencement of the reign of Henry VIII neither salad, nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes nor any other comestibles of a like nature were grown in any part of the kingdom they came from Holland and Flanders the original of all the cabbage tribe is the wild plant sea coalwort which is to be found wasting whatever sweetness it may have on the desert air on many of the cliffs of the south coast of England in this state it scarcely weighs more than half an ounce but in a cultivated state to what dimensions can it be made to grow sadly the whole of the tribe is esteemed among the moderns by the ancients they were held in yet higher estimation the Egyptians adored and raised altars to them and the Greeks and Romans ascribed many of the most exalted virtues to them Cato affirmed that the cabbage cured all diseases and declared that it was to its use that the Romans were unable to live in health and without the assistance of physicians for 600 years it was introduced by that people into Germany, Gaul, and no doubt Britain although in this last it may have been suffered a dissuitude for some centuries the whole tribe is in general wholesome and nutritive and forms a valuable adjunct to animal food soup a la canta twis an excellent soup very beneficial for the voice 119 ingredients 3 ounces of sago half a pint of cream the yolks of three eggs one lump of sugar and seasoning to taste one bay leaf if liked two quarts of medium stock number 105 1. Mode having washed the sago in boiling water let it be gradually added to the nearly boiling stock simmer for half an hour when it should be well dissolved beat up the yolks of the eggs add to them the boiling cream stir these quickly in the soup and serve immediately do not let the soup boil or the eggs will curdle time 40 minutes average cost one shilling six pence per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for eight persons note, this is a soup the principal ingredients of which sago and eggs have always been deemed very beneficial to the chest and throat in various quantities and in different preparations these have been partaken of by the principal singers of the day including the celebrated Swedish nightingale Jenny Lind and as they have always avowed with considerable advantage to the voice in singing carrot soup 1 120 ingredients four quarts of liquor in which a leg of mutton or beef has been boiled a few beef bones six large carrots, two large onions one turnip, seasoning of salt and pepper to taste cayenne mode put the liquor, bones, onions, turnip, pepper and salt into a stew pan and simmer for three hours scrape and cut the carrots thin strain the soup on them and stew them till soft enough to pulp through a hair sieve or coarse cloth then boil the pulp with the soup which should be of the consistency of pea soup add cayenne pulp only the red part of the carrot and make this soup the day before it is wanted time four and a half hours, average cost per quart one and a half pence seasonable from October to March sufficient for ten persons two 121 ingredients two pounds of carrots, three ounces of butter seasoning to taste of salt and cayenne two quarts of stock or gravy soup mode scrape and cut out all specks from the carrots wash and wipe them dry and then reduce them into quarter inch slices put the butter into a large stew pan and when it is melted add two pounds of the sliced carrots and let them stew gently for an hour without browning add to them the soup and allow them to simmer till tender save for nearly an hour press them through a strainer with the soup and add salt and cayenne if required boil the whole gently for five minutes skim well and serve as hot as possible time one and a quarter hours, average cost per quart one shilling one pence illustration tazza and carrot leaves the carrot there is a wild carrot which grows in England but it is white and small and not much esteemed the garden carrot in general use was introduced in the reign of Queen Elizabeth and it was at first so highly esteemed that the ladies wore leaves of it in their headdresses it is of great value in the culinary art especially for soups and stews it can be used also for beer instead of malt and in distillation it yields a large quantity of spirit the carrot is proportionably valuable as it has more of the red than the yellow part there is a large red variety much used by the farmers for coloring butter as a garden vegetable it is what is called the orange carrot it is the most cultivated as a fattening food for cattle it is excellent but for man it is indigestible on account of its fibrous matter of 1,000 parts 95 consists of sugar and 3 of starch the accompanying cut represents a pretty winter ornament obtained by placing a cut from the top of a carrot root in a shallow vessel of water when the young leaves spring forth with a charming freshness and fullness celery soup 122, ingredients 1 teaspoon full of salt nutmeg to taste 1 lump of sugar 1.5 pint of strong stock 1 pint of cream and 2 quarts of boiling water cut the celery into small pieces throw it into the water seasoned with the nutmeg salt and sugar boil it till sufficiently tender pass it through a sieve add the stock and simmer it for half an hour now put in the cream bring it to the boiling point and serve immediately time 1 hour average cost 1 shilling per quart seasonable from September to March sufficient for 10 persons note this soup can be made brown instead of white by omitting the cream and coloring it a little when celery cannot be procured half a dracum of the seed finely pounded will give a flavor to the soup if put in a quarter of an hour before it is done a little of the essence of celery will answer the same purpose celery this plant is indigenous to Britain and in its wild state grows by the side of ditches and along some parts of the sea coast in this state it is called smallage and to some extent is a dangerous narcotic by cultivation however it has been brought to the fine flavor which the garden plant possesses in the vicinity of Manchester it is raised to an enormous size when our natural observation is assisted by the accurate results ascertained by the light of science how infinitely does it enhance our delight in contemplating the products of nature to know for example that the endless variety of color which we see in plants is developed only by the rays of the sun is to know a truism sublime by its very comprehensiveness the cause of the whiteness of celery is nothing more than the want of light in its vegetation and in order that this effect may be produced the plant is almost wholly covered with earth the tops of the leaves alone being suffered to appear above the ground chantilly soup ingredients one quart of young green peas a small bunch of parsley two young onions two quarts of medium stock number 105 boiled the peas till quite tender with the parsley and onions then rub them through a sieve and pour the stock to them do not let it boil after the peas are added or you will spoil the color serve very hot time half an hour seasonable from June to the end of August sufficient for eight persons note cold peas pounded in a mortar with a little stock added to them make a very good soup and a haste parsley among the Greeks in the classic ages a crown of parsley was awarded both in the Nomean and Isthmian games and the voluptuous anachron pronounces this beautiful herb the emblem of joy and festivity it has an elegant leaf possibly used in the culinary art when it was introduced to Britain is not known there are several varieties the plain leafed and the curled leafed celery parsley, hamburger parsley and purslane the curled is the best and from the form of its leaf has a beautiful appearance on a dish as a garnish its flavor is to many very agreeable in soups and although to rabbits hairs and sheep it is a luxury to parrots it is a poison the celery parsley is used as a celery and the hamburg is cultivated only for its roots which are used as parsnips or carrots to eat with meat the purslane is a native of South America and is not now much in use chestnut, Spanish soup 124 ingredients three-quarter pounds of Spanish chestnuts one-quarter pint of cream seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne and mace one-quarter stock number 105 mode take the outer rind from the chestnuts put them in cold water as soon as this becomes too hot for the fingers to remain take out the chestnuts peel them quickly and immerse them in cold water and wipe and weigh them now cover them with good stock and stew them gently for rather more than three-quarters of an hour or until they break when touched with a fork then drain, pound and rub them through a fine sieve reversed add sufficient stock, mace, cayenne and salt and stir it often until it boils and put in the cream the stock in which the chestnuts are boiled can be used for the soup when it's sweetness is not objected to or it may in part be added to it and the rule is that three-quarter pounds of chestnuts should be given to each quart of soup time, rather than one hour average cost per quart one shilling six pence seasonable from October to February sufficient for four persons illustration chestnut the chestnut is said by some to have originally come from Sardis in Lydia and by others from Castania a city of Thessaly from which it takes its name by the ancients it was much used as a food and is still common in France and Italy to which countries it is by some considered indigenous in the southern part of the European continent it is eaten both raw and roasted the tree was introduced into Britain by the Romans but it only flourishes in the warmer parts of the island the fruit rarely arriving at maturity in the southern part of the island it attains a great age as well as an immense size as a food it is the least oily and most foreignaceous of all the nuts and therefore the easiest of digestion the tree called the horse chestnut is very different although its fruit very much resembles that of the other its nuts, though eaten by horses and some other animals are unsuitable for human food coconut soup 125 six ounces of rice flour half a teaspoon full of mace seasoning to taste of cayenne and salt one quarter of a pint of boiling cream three quarts of medium stock number 105 mode take the dark rind from the coconut and grate it down small on a clean grater weigh it and allow for each quart of stock two ounces of the coconut simmer it gently for one hour in the stock which should then be strained closely from it and thickened for table time two and a quarter hours average cost per quart one shilling three pence seasonable in autumn sufficient for ten persons illustration coconut palm illustration nut and blossom the coconut this is the fruit of one of the palms then which it is questionable if there is any other species of tree marking in itself so abundantly the goodness of provenance in making provision for the wants of men it grows wild in the indian seas and in the eastern parts of asia and thence it has been introduced into every part of the tropical regions to the natives of those climates its bark supplies the material for creating their dwellings its leaves the means of roofing them and the leaf stocks a kind of gauze for covering their windows or protecting the baby in the cradle it is also made into lanterns masks to screen the face from the heat of the sun baskets wicker work and even a kind of paper for writing on combs, brooms, torches, ropes, matting and sailcloth are made of its fibers with these two beds are made and cushions stuffed ores are supplied by the leaves drinking cups, spoons, and other domestic utensils by the shells of the nuts milk by its juice of which also a kind of honey and sugar are prepared when fermented it furnishes the means of intoxication and when the fibers are burned their ashes supply an alkali for making soap the buds of the tree bear striking resemblance to cabbage when boiled but when they are cropped the tree dries in a fresh state the kernel is eaten raw and its juice is a most agreeable and refreshing beverage when the nut is imported to this country its fruit is, in general, comparatively dry and is considered indigestible the tree is one of the least productive of the palm tribe soup a la crecy 126 ingredients four carrots sliced onions one cut lettuce and chervil two ounces butter one pint of lentils the crumbs of two french rolls half a teacup full of rice two quarts of medium stock number 105 mode put the vegetables with the butter in the stew pan and let them simmer five minutes then add the lentils and one pint of the stock and stew gently for half an hour now fill it up with the remainder of the stock let it boil another hour and put in the crumb of the rolls when well soaked rub all through with a tammy have ready the rice boiled or the soup over this and serve time one and three quarters hours average cost one shilling two pence per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for eight persons illustration the lentil the lentil this belongs to the legumius or pulse kind of vegetables which rank next to the corn plants in their nutritive properties the lentil is a variety of the bean tribe but in England is not used as human food although considered the best of all kinds for pigeons on the continent it is cultivated for soups as well as for other preparations for the table and among the presents which David received from Shobi as recounted in the scriptures were beans, lentils, and parched pulse among the Egyptians it was extensively used and among the Greeks the Stoics had a maxim which declared that a wise man acts always with reason and prepares his own lentils among the Romans it was not much esteemed and from them the English may have inherited a prejudice against it on account it is said of its rendering men indolent it takes its name from lentis slow and according to Pliny produces mildness and moderation of temper cucumber soup French recipe 127 ingredients one large cucumber, a piece of butter the size of a walnut chervil and sorrel cut in large pieces salt and pepper to taste the yolks of two eggs one gill of cream one quart of medium stock number five mode pair the cucumber, quarter it, and take out the seeds cut it in thin slices put these on a plate with a little salt to draw the water from them drain and put them in your stew pan with the butter when they are warmed through without being browned pour the stock on them add the sorrel, chervil, and seasoning and boil for 40 minutes mix the well beaten yolks of the eggs with the cream which add at the moment of serving time one hour average cost, one shilling two pence per quart seasonable from June to September sufficient for four persons the cucumber the antiquity of this fruit is very great in the sacred writings we find that the people of Israel regretted it while subjourning in the desert and at the present time the cucumber and other fruits of its class form a large portion of the food of the Egyptian people by the eastern nations generally as well as by the Greeks and Romans it was greatly esteemed like the melon it was originally brought from Asia by the Romans and in the 14th century it was common in England although in the time of the wars of the roses it seems no longer to have been cultivated it is a cold food and of difficult digestion when eaten raw as a preserved sweet-meat however it is esteemed one of the most agreeable egg soup 128 ingredients a tablespoon full of flour four eggs two small blades of finely pounded mace two quarts of stock number 105 mode beat up the flour smoothly in a teaspoon full of cold stock and put in the eggs throw them into boiling stock stirring all the time simmer for one quarter of an hour season and serve with a french roll fried snippets of bread time half an hour average cost eleven pence per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for eight persons soup à la flemande flemish one 129 ingredients one turnip one small carrot one half head of celery six green onions shred very fine one lettuce cut small chervil one quarter pint of asparagus cut small one quarter pint of peas two ounces butter the yolks of four eggs half a pint of cream salt to taste one lump of sugar two quarts of stock number 105 mode put the vegetables in the butter just stew gently for an hour with a teacup full of stock then add the remainder of the stock and simmer for another hour now beat the yolks of the eggs well mix with the cream previously boiled and strain through a hair sieve take the soup off the fire add the butter into it and keep stirring it well bring it to a boil but do not leave off stirring or the eggs will curdle season with salt and add the sugar time 24 hours average cost one shilling nine pence per quart seasonable from May to August sufficient for eight persons chervil although the roots of this plant are poisonous its leaves are tender and are used in salad in antiquity it made a relishing dish chervil, wine, and gravy it is a native of various parts of Europe and the species cultivated in the gardens of Paris has beautifully frizzled leaves two 130 ingredients five onions, five heads of celery ten moderate sized potatoes three ounces butter half a pint of water, half a pint of cream two quarts of stock number 105 mode slice the onions, celery, and potatoes and put them with the butter and water in a pan and simmer for an hour then fill up the stew pan with stock and boil gently till the potatoes are done which will be about an hour rub all through a tammy and add the cream previously boiled do not let it boil after the cream is put in time two and a half hours average cost one shilling four pence per quart seasonable from September to May sufficient for eight persons note this soup can be made with water instead of stock soup a la julienne illustration, strips of vegetable 131 ingredients half a pint of carrots, half a pint of turnips half a pint of onions two or three leeks half a head of celery one lettuce, a little sorrel and chervil if liked two ounces of butter two quarts of stock number 105 mode cut the vegetables into strips of about 1 inch long and be particular they are all the same size or some will be hard whilst the others will be done to a pulp cut the lettuce, sorrel and chervil into large pieces fry the carrots in the butter and pour the stock boiling to them when this is done add all the other vegetables and herbs and stew gently for an hour at least skim off all the fat pour the soup over thin slices of bread cut round about the size of a shilling and serve time one and a half hours average cost one shilling three pence per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for eight persons note in summer green peas, asparagus tops french beans etc can be added when the vegetables are very strong instead of frying them in butter at first they should be blanched and afterwards simmered in the stock sorrel this is one of the spinacious plants which take their name from spinach which is the chief among them it is little used in english cookery but a great deal in french in which it is employed for soups, sauces and salads in english meadows it is usually left to grow wild but in france where it is cultivated it's flavor is greatly improved kale bros a scotch recipe 132 ingredients half an ox head or cow heel a teacup full of toasted oatmeal salt to taste two handfuls of greens three quarts of water put it aside or cow heel and boil it till oil floats on the top of the liquor then boil the greens shred in it put the oatmeal with a little salt into a basin and mix with it quickly a teacup full of the fat broth it should not run into one doughy mass but form knots stir it into the whole give one boil and serve very hot time four hours average cost eight pence per quart seasonable all the year but more suitable in winter sufficient for ten persons end of section eight recording by kalinda in raymond new hampshire on november fourteenth two thousand seven section nine of the book of household management this is a libra vox recording all libra vox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit libravox.org recording by kalinda the book of household management by isabella beaten recipes chapter six part two leek soup one one hundred thirty three ingredients a sheep's head three quarts of water twelve leeks cut small pepper and salt to taste oatmeal to thicken mode prepare the head either by skinning or cleaning the skin very nicely split it in two take out the brains and put it into boiling water add the leeks and seasoning and simmer very gently for four hours mix smoothly with cold water as much oatmeal as will make the soup tolerably thick pour it into the soup continue stirring till the whole is blended and well done and serve time four and a half hours average cost four pence per quart seasonable in winter sufficient for ten persons two commonly called kaka leaky one thirty four a cappin or large fowl sometimes an old cock from which the recipe takes its name is used which should be trust as for boiling two or three bunches of fine leeks five quarts of stock number one oh five pepper and salt to taste mode well wash the leeks and if old scald them in boiling water for a few minutes taking off the roots and part of the heads and cut them into lengths of about an inch put the fowl into the stock first one half of the leeks and allow it to simmer gently in half an hour add the remaining leeks and then it may simmer for three or four hours longer it should be carefully skimmed and can be seasoned to taste in serving take out the fowl and carve it neatly placing the pieces in a terrine and pouring over them the soup which should be very thick of leeks a puree of leeks the French would call it time four hours average cost depends per quart or with stock number one oh six one shilling seasonable in winter sufficient for ten persons note without the fowl the above which would then be merely called a leek soup is very good and also economical caca leeky was largely consumed at the Burns Centenary Festival at the crystal palace Sydenham in 1859 illustration leeks the leek in the case of the cucumber this vegetable was bewailed by the Israelites in their journey through the desert it is one of the Aleatius tribe which consists of the onion, garlic, chive shallot, and leek these as articles of food are perhaps more widely diffused over the face of the earth than any other genus of edible plants it is the national badge of the Welsh and tradition ascribes to St. David in its introduction to that part of Britain the origin of the wearing of the leek in this day among that people is thus given in beaten dictionary of universal information it probably originated from the custom of S'mortha or the friendly aid practiced among farmers in some districts of south Wales all the neighbors of a small farmer were wont to appoint a day when they attended to plow his land and the like and at such time it was the custom for each to bring his portion of leeks with him for making the broth or soup others derive the origin of the custom from the battle of Cressy the plant, when grown in Wales and Scotland is sharper than it is in England and its flavor is preferred by many to that of the onion in broth it is very wholesome and to prevent its tainting the breath should be well boiled macaroni soup 135 ingredients 3 ounces of macaroni, a piece of butter the size of a walnut salt to taste 105 mode throw the macaroni and butter into boiling water with a pinch of salt and simmer for half an hour when it is tender drain and cut it into thin rings or lengths and drop it into the boiling stock stew gently for 15 minutes and serve grated parmesan cheese with it time 3 quarters of an hour, average cost 1 chilling per quart seasonable all the year illustration macaroni macaroni this is the favorite food of Italy where especially among the Neapolitan it may be regarded as the staff of life the crowd of London says Mr. Forsythe is a double line in quick motion it is the crowd of business the crowd of Naples consists in a general tide rolling up and down and in the middle of this tide a hundred eddies of men you are stopped by a carpenter's bench or a carpenter's stalls and you dash among the pots of a macaroni stall this article of food is nothing more than a thick paste made of the best wheat and flour with a small quantity of water when it has been well worked it is put into a hollow cylindrical vessel pierced with holes of the size of tobacco pipes at the bottom through these holes the mass is forced by a powerful screw bearing on a piece of wood made exactly to fit the inside of the cylinder whilst issuing from the holes placed by a fire placed below the cylinder and is at the same time drawn away and hung over rods placed about the room in order to dry in a few days it is fit for use as it is both wholesome and nutritious it ought to be much more used by all classes in England than it is it generally accompanies parmesan cheese to the tables of the rich but is also used for thickening soups and making puddings soup megre ingredients six ounces butter six onions sliced four heads of celery two lettuces two handfuls of spinach three pieces of bread crust two blades of mace salt and pepper to taste the yolks of two eggs three teaspoonfuls of vinegar two quarts of water milk the butter in a stew pan and put in the onions to stew gently then add the celery, spinach, lettuces and parsley cut small stir the ingredients well for ten minutes now put in the water, bread, seasoning and mace boil gently for one and a half hours and at the moment of serving beat in the yolks of the eggs and the vinegar but do not let it boil or the eggs will curdle time two hours, average cost six pence per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for eight persons illustration lettuce the lettuce this is one of the aceterias vegetables which comprise a large class chiefly used as pickles, salads and other condiments the lettuce has in all antiquity been distinguished as a kitchen garden plant it was without preparation, eaten by the Hebrews with the pascal lamb the Greeks delighted in it and the Romans in the time of Domitian had it prepared with eggs and served in the first course of their tables, merely to excite their appetites its botanical name is lactuca, so called from the milky juice it exudes when its stalks are cut it possesses a narcotic virtue noticed by ancient physicians and even in our day a lettuce supper is deemed conducive to repose it's proper character however is that of a cooling summer vegetable not very nutritive but serving as a corrective or diluent of animal food milk soup a nice dish for children two quarts of milk one salt spoonful of salt one teaspoon full of powdered cinnamon three teaspoons full of pounded sugar or more if liked four thin slices of bread the yolks of six eggs mode boil the milk with the salt, cinnamon and sugar lay the bread in a deep dish pour over it a little of the milk and keep it hot over the stove without burning the eggs add them to the milk and stir it over the fire till it thickens do not let it curdle pour it upon the bread and serve time three quarters of an hour average costs eight pence per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for ten children onion soup one thirty-eight ingredients six large onions, two ounces of butter salt and pepper to taste quarter pint of cream five mode chop the onions, put them in the butter stir them occasionally but do not let them brown when tender put the stock to them and season strain the soup and add the boiling cream time one and a half hours average cost one shilling per quart seasonable in winter sufficient for four persons cheap onion soup one thirty-nine ingredients onions, three ounces of butter a tablespoon full of rice flour salt and pepper to taste one teaspoon full of powdered sugar thickening of butter and flour two quarts of water mode cut the onions small, put them in the stew pan with the butter and fry them well mix the rice flour smoothly with the water add the onions, seasoning and sugar and simmer till tender thicken with butter and flour and serve time two hours average cost four pence per quart seasonable in winter sufficient for eight persons illustration, onion the onion like the cabbage this plant was erected into an object of worship by the idolatrous Egyptians two thousand years before the Christian era and it still forms a favorite food in the country of these peoples as well as in other parts of Africa when it was first introduced to England has not been ascertained but it has long been in use and esteemed as a favorite seasoning plant to various dishes in warmer climates it is much milder in its flavor and such as are grown in Spain and Portugal are comparatively speaking very large and are often eat both in a boiled and roasted state the Strasburg is the most esteemed and although all the species have highly nutritive properties they impart such a disagreeable odor to the breath that they are often rejected even when they are liked chewing a little raw parsley this odor pan kale 140 ingredients two pounds of cabbage or Savoy greens a quarter pound of butter or dripping salt and pepper to taste oatmeal for thickening two quarts of water mode chop the cabbage very fine thicken the water with oatmeal put in the cabbage and butter or dripping season and simmer for one and a half hours it can be made sooner by blanching in a cooker that a joint has been boiled in and then further thicken with bread or pounded biscuit time one and a half hours average cost one and a half pence per quart seasonable all the year but more suitable in winter sufficient for eight persons the Savoy this is a close-hearted wrinkle-leaved cabbage sweet and tender especially the middle leaves and in season from November to spring the yellow species bears hard weather and the parsley, whilst the dwarf kind are improved and rendered more tender by frost parsnips soup 141 ingredients one pound of sliced parsnips two ounces of butter salt and cayenne to taste one quart of stock number 106 mode put the parsnips into the stew pan with the butter which has been previously melted and simmer them till quite tender then add nearly a pint of stock Pass all through a fine strainer and put to it the remainder of the stock. Season, boil, and serve immediately. Time, two hours. Average cost, six pence per quart. Seasonable from October to April. Sufficient for four persons. The parsnip. This is a biennial plant, with a root like a carrot, which, in nutritive and saccharine matter, it nearly equals. It is a native of Britain, and in its wild state may be found parts growing by the road sides. It is also to be found generally distributed over Europe, and in Catholic countries is mostly used with salt fish in lent. In Scotland it forms an excellent dish when beat up with butter and potatoes. It is also excellent when fried. In Ireland it is found to yield, in conjunction with a hop, a pleasant beverage, and it contains as much spirit as the carrot and makes an excellent wine. Its proportion of nutritive matter is 99 parts in 1000, 9 being mucilage and 90 sugar. Pea soup, green. 142. Ingredients. Three pints of green peas. One quarter pound of butter. Two or three thin slices of ham. Six onions sliced. Four shredded lettuces. The crumb of two French rolls. Two handfuls of spinach. One lump of sugar. Two quarts of common stock. Mode. Put the butter, ham, one quarter of the peas, onions and lettuces to a pint of stock, and simmer for an hour. Then add the remainder of the stock with the crumb of the French rolls and boil for another hour. Now boil the spinach and squeeze it very dry. Rub the soup through a sieve and the spinach with it to color it. Have ready a pint of young peas boiled. Add them to the soup. Put in the sugar. Give one boil and serve. If necessary, add salt. Time. Two and a half hours. Average cost. One chilling nine pence per quart. Seasonable from June to the end of August. Sufficient for ten persons. Note. It will be well to add if the peas are not quite young, a little sugar. Where economy is essential, water may be used instead of stock for this soup. Boiling in it likewise the peashells, but use a double quantity of vegetables. Winter pea soup. Yellow. 143. Ingredients. One quart of split peas. Two pounds of shin of beef. Trimmings of meat or poultry. A slice of bacon. Two large carrots. Two turnips. Five large onions. One head of celery. Seasoning to taste. Two quarts of soft water. Any bones left from roast meat. Two quarts of common stock or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled. Mode. Put the peas to soak overnight in soft water and float off such as rise to the top. Boil them in the water till tender enough to pulp. Then add the ingredients mentioned above and simmer for two hours, stirring it occasionally. Pass the whole through a sieve, skim well, season, and serve with toasted bread cut in dice. Time. Four hours. Average cost. Six pence per quart. Seasonable all the year round, but more suitable for cold weather. Sufficient for 12 persons. Illustration. Pea. The pea. It is supposed that the common gray pea, found wild in Greece and other parts of the Levant, is the original of the common garden pea. And of all the domestic varieties belonging to it, the gray or field pea, called bicelli by the French, is less subject to run into varieties than the garden kinds and is considered by some, perhaps on that account, to be the wild plant, retaining still a large proportion of its original habit. From the tendency of all other varieties to run away and become different to what they originally were, it is very difficult to determine the races to which they belong. The pea was well known to the Romans and probably was introduced to Britain at an early period, when we find peas mentioned by Lidegate, a poet of the 15th century, as being hawked in London. They seem, however, for a considerable time to have fallen out of use, for in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Fuller tells us that they were brought from Holland and were accounted fit dainties for ladies. They came so far and cost so dear. There are some varieties of peas which have no lining in their pods, which are eaten cooked in the same way as kidney beans. They are called sugar peas, and the best variety is the large-cooked sugar, which is also very good, used in the common way, as a culinary vegetable. There is also a white sort, which readily splits when subjected to the action of millstones set wide apart, so as not to grind them. These are used largely for soups and especially for sea stores. From the quantity of farinaceous and saccharine matter contained in the pea, it is highly nutritious as an article of food. Pea soup inexpensive 144. Ingredients ¼ pound of onions ¼ pound of carrots 2 ounces of celery ¾ pounds of split peas A little mint, shred fine coarse-brown sugar Salt and pepper to taste ¼ quarts of water or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled. Fried the vegetables for 10 minutes in a little butter or dripping, previously cutting them up in small pieces. Pour the water on them, and when boiling, add the peas. Let them simmer for nearly 3 hours, or until the peas are thoroughly done. Add the sugar, seasoning, and mint. Boil for ¼ of an hour and serve. 3½ hours Average cost ¼ pence per quart Seasonable in winter, sufficient for 12 persons. Potato soup 1. 145. Ingredients 4 pounds of mealy potatoes boiled or steamed very dry. Pepper and salt to taste 2 quarts of stock number 105. Mode When the potatoes are boiled, mash them smoothly that no lumps remain until the boiling stock. Pass it through a sieve, season, and simmer for 5 minutes. Skim well and serve with fried bread. 1½ hour Average cost ¼ pence per quart Seasonable from September to March, sufficient for 8 persons. 2. 146. Ingredients 1 pound of shin of beef 1 pound of potatoes 1 onion, ½ a pint of peas 2 ounces of rice Pepper and salt to taste 3 quarts of water Mode Cut the beef into thin slices, chop the potatoes and onion, and put them in a stew pan with the water, peas, and rice. Stew gently till the gravy is drawn from the meat, strain it off, take out the beef and pulp the other ingredients through a coarse sieve. Put the pulp back in the soup, cut up the celery in it, and simmer till this is tender. Season and serve with fried bread cut into it. Time 3 hours Average cost ¼ pence per quart Seasonable from September to March, sufficient for 12 persons. 3. Very economical 147. Ingredients 4 middle-sized potatoes well paired A thick slice of bread 6 leeks peeled and cut into thin slices as far as the white extends upward from the roots A teacup full of rice A teaspoon full of salt and ½ that of pepper A glass of water Mode The water must be completely boiling before anything is put into it. Then add the whole of the ingredients at once with the exception of the rice, the salt, and the pepper. Cover and let these come to a brisk boil. Put in the others and let the whole boil slowly for an hour or till all the ingredients are thoroughly done and there are several juices extracted and mixed. Time 2 ½ hours Average cost 3 pence per quart sufficient for 8 persons Seasonable in winter Illustration Potatoes Humboldt doubted whether this root was a native of South America but it has been found growing wild both in Chile and Buenos Aires. It was first brought to Spain from the neighbourhood of Quito in the early part of the 16th century first to England from Virginia in 1586 and first planted by Sir Walter Rowley on his estate of Ugal in Ireland. Thence it was brought and planted in Lancashire in England and was at first recommended to be eaten as a delicate dish and not as common food. This was in 1587. Nutritious properties Of a thousand parts of the potato Sir H. Davie found about a fourth nutritive say 200 musselage or starch 20 sugar and 30 gluten Prince of Whales soup 148 ingredients 12 turnips 1 lump of sugar 2 spoonfuls of strong veal stock Salt and white pepper to taste 2 quarts of very bright stock 105 Mode Peel the turnips and with a cutter cut them in balls as round as possible but very small Put them in the stock which must be very bright and simmer till tender Add the veal stock in seasoning Have little pieces of bread cut round them with stock Put them into a terrine and pour the soup over without shaking for fear of crumbling the bread which would spoil the appearance of the soup and make it look thick. Time, 2 hours Seasonable in the winter, sufficient for 8 persons. The Prince of Whales This soup was invented by a philanthropic friend of the Edetris to be distributed among the poor of a considerable village when the Prince of Whales attained his majority on the 9th November, 1859 Accompanying this fact, the following notice which appears in Beaton's dictionary of universal information may appropriately be introduced promising that British princes attain their majority in their 18th year whilst mortals of ordinary rank do not arrive at that period till their 21st. Albert Edward, Prince of Whales and heir to the British throne merits a place in this work on account of the high responsibilities which he is in all probability destined to fulfill as sovereign of the British Empire. On the 10th of November, 1858 he was gazetted as having been invested with the rank of a colonel in the army. Speaking of this circumstance the time said, the significance of this event is that it marks the period when the heir to the British throne is about to take rank among men and to enter formally upon a career which every loyal subject of the queen will pray may be a long and happy one for his own sake and for the sake of the vast Empire which in the course of nature he will one day be called to govern. The best wish that we can offer for the young princes that in his own path he may ever keep before him the bright example of his royal mother and show himself worthy of her name. There are few in these realms who will not give a fervent response to these sentiments, be November 9, 1841 Potage printagnier or spring soup 149 ingredients half a pint of green peas if in season a little chervil two shredded lettuces two onions, a very small bunch of parsley two ounces of butter the yolks are three eggs one pint of water, seasoning to taste two quarts of stock number 105 mode put in a very clean stew pan the chervil, lettuces, onions, parsley and butter to one pint of water and let them simmer till tender Season with salt and pepper when done, strain off the vegetables and put two thirds of the liquor they were boiled into the stock beat up the yolks of the eggs with the other third, give it a toss over the fire and at the moment of serving, add this with the vegetables which you strained off to the soup time, three quarters of an hour average cost, one chilling per quart seasonable from May to October sufficient for eight persons rice soup, one 150 ingredients four ounces of patina rice salt, cayenne and mace two quarts of white stock mode throw the rice into boiling water and let it remain five minutes then pour it into a sieve and allow it to drain well now add it to the stock boiling and allow it to stew till it is quite tender season to taste, serve quickly time, one hour average cost, one chilling three pence per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for eight persons illustration, ears of rice rice rice this is a plant of Indian origin and has formed the principal food of the Indian and Chinese people from the most remote antiquity both pliny and diascorities class it with the cereals though gallon places it among the vegetables be this as it may, however it was imported to Greece from India about 286 years before Christ and by the ancients it was esteemed both nutritious and fattening there are three kinds of rice the hill rice, the patina and the carolina of the United States of these only the two latter are imported to this country and the carolina is considered the best as it is the dearest the nourishing properties of rice are greatly inferior to those of wheat but it is both a light and wholesome food in combination with other foods its nutritive qualities are greatly increased but from its having little stimulating power it is apt when taken in large quantities alone it is my long on the stomach 2 151, ingredients 6 ounces of rice the yolks of 4 eggs half a pint of cream rather more than 2 quarts of stock number 105 mode boil the rice in the stock and rub half of it through a tammy put the stock in the stew pan add all the rice and simmer gently for 5 minutes beat the yolks of the eggs mix them with the cream strain through a hair sieve take the soup off the fire add the eggs and cream stirring frequently heat it gradually stirring all the time but do not let it boil or the eggs will curdle time 2 hours average cost 1 shilling 4 pence per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for 8 persons sago soup 152 ingredients 5 ounces of sago mode wash the sago in boiling water and add it by degrees to the boiling stock and simmer till the sago is entirely dissolved and forms a sort of jelly time nearly an hour average cost 10 pence per quart sufficient for 8 persons seasonable all the year note the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up with a little cream previously boiled and added at the moment of serving much improves the soup sago palm sago the perinaceous food of this name constitutes the pith of the sago tree the sagas farinephora of Linnaeus which grows spontaneously in the east Indies and in the archipelago of the Indian Ocean there it forms the principal perinaceous diet of the inhabitants in order to procure it the tree is felled and sawn in pieces the pith is then taken out and put in receptacles of cold water where it is stirred until the water separates from the filaments and sinks to the bottom where it is suffered to remain until the water is poured off when it is taken out and spread on wicker frames to dry to give it the ground granular form in which we find it come to this country it is passed through a colander then rubbed into little balls and dried the tree is not fit for felling until it has attained a growth of 7 years when a single trunk will yield 600 pounds weight and as an acre of ground will grow 430 of these trees the large return of flower is the result the best quality has a slightly reddish hue and easily dissolves to a jelly in hot water as a restorative diet it is much used semolina soup 153 ingredients 5 ounces of semolina 2 quarts of boiling stock 105 or 106 mode drop the semolina into the boiling stock and keep stirring to prevent it's burning for half an hour and serve time 1 half hour average cost 10 pence per quart or 4 pence season will all the year sufficient for 8 persons semolina this is the heart of the grano duro wheat of Italy which is imported for the purpose of making the best for macelli it has a coarse appearance and may be purchased at the Italian warehouses it is also called suji and semoletta which is another name for a finer sort soup alla sulferino sardinian recipe 154 ingredients 4 eggs, half a pint of cream 2 ounces of fresh butter salt and pepper to taste a little flour to thicken 2 quarts of bouillon 105 mode, beat the eggs put them into a stew pan and add the cream, butter and seasoning stir in as much flour for the consistency of dough make it into balls either round or egg shaped and fry them in butter put them in the terrain and pour the boiling bouillon over them time 1 hour average cost 1 shilling 3 pence per quart season will all the year sufficient for 8 persons note this recipe was communicated to the by an English gentleman who was present at the battle of sulferino on June 24th, 1859 and who was requested by some of victor and manual's troops on the day before the battle to partake a portion of their potage he willingly enough consented and found that these clever campaigners had made a most palatable dish from very easily procured materials in sending the recipe for insertion in this work he has however anglicized and somewhat he thinks improved it spinach soup french recipe 155 ingredients spinach as when boiled will have fill of vegetable dish 2 quarts of very clear medium stock number 105 mode make the cooked spinach into balls the size of an egg and slip them into the soup terrain this is a very elegant soup the green of the spinach forming a pretty contrast to the brown gravy time 1 hour average cost 1 shilling per quart seasonable from October to June illustration spinach spinach this plant was unknown by the ancients although it was cultivated in the monastic gardens of the continent in the middle of the 14th century some say that it was originally brought from Spain but there is a wild species growing in England and cultivated in Lincolnshire in preference to the other there are 3 varieties in use the round leafed, the triangular leafed and flander spinach known by its large leaves they all form a useful ingredient in soup but the leaves are sometimes boiled alone mashed and eaten as greens tapioca soup 156 ingredients 5 ounces of tapioca 2 quarts of stock number 105 or 106 mode put the tapioca into cold stock and bring it gradually to a boil simmer gently till tender and serve time rather more than 1 hour average cost 1 shilling or 6 pence per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for 8 persons tapioca this excellent, farinaceous food is the produce of the pith of the cassava tree and is made in the East Indies and also in Brazil it is by washing procured as a starch from the tree then dried either in the sun or on plates of hot iron and afterwards broken into grains in which form it is imported into this country its nutritive properties are large and as a food for persons of delicate digestion or for children it is in great estimation no emalaceous substance says Dr. Christensen is so much relished by infants about the time of weaning and in them it is less apt to become sour during digestion than any other farinaceous food even arrowroot not accepted turnip soup 157 ingredients 3 ounces of butter 9 good-sized turnips 4 onions 2 quarts of stock number 106 seasoning to taste mode melt the butter in the stew pan but do not let it boil wash and drain and slice the turnips and onions very thin put them in butter with a teacup full of stock and stew very gently for an hour then add the remainder of the stock and simmer another hour rub it through a tammy put it back into the stew pan but do not let it boil serve very hot for a time 2.5 hours average cost 8 pence per quart seasonable from October to March sufficient for 8 persons note by adding a little cream this soup will be much improved illustration turnip the turnip although turnips grow wild in England they are not the original of the cultivated vegetable made use of in this country in ancient times they were grown for cattle by the Romans and in Germany and the low countries from time immemorial been raised for the same purpose in their cultivated state they are generally supposed to have been introduced to England from Hanover in the time of George I but this has been doubted as George II caused a description of the Norfolk system to be sent to his Hanoverian subjects for their enlightenment in the art of turnip culture as a culinary vegetable it is excellent whether eaten alone mashed or mixed with soups and stews its nutritious matter however only 42 parts in 1000 vegetable marrow soup 158 ingredients 4 young vegetable marrows or more if very small 1 half pint of cream salt and white pepper to taste 2 quarts of white stock number 107 mode pair and slice the marrows and put them in the stock boiling when done almost to a mash press them through a sieve and at the moment of serving add the boiling cream 1 hour average cost 1 shilling 2 pence per quart seasonable in summer sufficient for 8 persons illustration vegetable marrow the vegetable marrow this is a variety of the gourd family brought from Persia by an East India ship and only recently introduced to Britain it is already cultivated to a considerable extent and by many is highly esteemed when fried with butter it is however dressed in different ways the vegetable marrow is boiled and besides made into pies vegetable soup 1 159 ingredients 7 ounces of carrot 10 ounces of parsnip 10 ounces of potato cut into thin slices 1 and 1 quarter ounces of butter 5 teaspoonfuls of flour a teaspoonful of made mustard salt and pepper to taste the yolks of two eggs rather more than 2 quarts of water mode stir them often and if the water boils away too quickly add more as there should be 2 quarts of soup when done mix up in a basin the butter and flour, mustard, salt and pepper with a teacup full of cold water stir in the soup and boil 10 minutes have ready the yolks of the eggs in the pour on, stir well and serve time 3 hours average cost 4 pence per quart seasonable in winter sufficient for 8 persons 2 ingredients equal quantities of onions, carrots, turnips 1 quarter pound of butter a crust of toasted bread 1 head of celery, a faggot of herbs salt and pepper to taste 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar 2 quarts of common stock or boiling water allow 3 quarter pounds of vegetables to 2 quarts of stock, number 105 mode cut up the onions, carrots and turnips wash and drain them well and put them in the stew pan with the butter and powdered sugar toss the whole over a sharp fire for 10 minutes but do not let them brown or you will spoil the flavor of the soup when done, pour the stock or boiling water on them add the bread, celery, herbs and seasoning stew for 3 hours skim well and strain it off when ready to serve add a little sliced carrot, celery and turnip and flavor with a spoonful of harvey sauce or a little ketchup time 3.5 hours average cost 6 pence per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for 8 persons 3. good and cheap, made without meat 161. ingredients 6 potatoes, 4 turnips or 2 if very large 2 carrots, 2 onions if obtainable, 2 mushrooms 1 head of celery 1 large slice of bread 1 small teaspoonful of salt 1 quarter teaspoonful of ground black pepper 2 teaspoonfuls of harvey sauce 6 quarts of water mode peel the vegetables and cut them up into small pieces toast the bread rather brown and put all into a stew pan with the water and seasoning simmer gently for 3 hours or until all is reduced to a pulp and pass it through a sieve in the same way as pea soup which it should resemble in consistency but it should be a dark brown color warm it up again when required put in the harvey sauce and if necessary add to the flavoring time 3 hours or rather more average cost 1 pence per quart seasonable at any time sufficient for 16 persons note this recipe was forwarded to the editorist by a lady in the county of Durham by whom it was strongly recommended vermicelli soup 1 162 ingredients 1.5 pounds of bacon stuck with cloves 1.5 ounce of butter 1 small fowl trust for boiling 2 ounces of vermicelli 2 quarts of white stock number 107 mode put the stock, bacon, butter and fowl into the stew pan and stew for 3 quarters of an hour take the vermicelli add it to a little of the stock and set it on the fire till it is quite tender when the soup is ready take out the fowl and bacon and put the bacon on a dish skim the soup as clean as possible cover it with the vermicelli over the fowl cut some bread thin put it in the soup and serve time 2 hours average cost exclusive of the fowl and bacon 10 pence per quart seasonable in winter sufficient for 4 persons illustration vermicelli vermicelli this is a preparation of Italian origin and is made in the same way as macaroni only the yolks of eggs sugar, saffron and cheese are added to the paste 2 163 ingredients 1 quarter pound of vermicelli 2 quarts of clear gravy stock number 169 mode put the vermicelli in the soup boiling simmer very gently for half an hour and stir frequently time average cost seasonable all the year sufficient for 8 persons white soup 164 ingredients 1 quarter pound of sweet almonds 1 quarter pound of cold veal or poultry a thick slice of stale bread a piece of fresh lemon peel 1 blade of mace, pounded 3 quarter pounds of cream the yolks of 2 hard boiled eggs 2 quarts of white stock number 107 mode reduce the almonds in a mortar to a paste with a spoonful of water and add them to the meat which should be previously pounded with the bread beat all together and add the lemon peel very finely chopped and the mace pour the boiling stock on the whole and simmer for an hour rub the eggs in the cream, put in the soup bring to a boil and serve immediately time 1.5 hours average cost 1 shilling 6 pence per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for 8 persons note a more economical white soup may be made by using common veal stock and thickening with rice, flour and milk vermicelli should be served with it average cost 5 pence per quart useful soup for benevolent purposes 165 ingredients an ox cheek any pieces of trimming of beef which may be bought very cheaply say 4 pounds a few bones any pot liquor the larder may furnish 1 quarter peck of onions 6 leeks a large bunch of herbs half a pound of celery the outside pieces or green tops do very well 1.5 pound of carrots 1.5 pound of turnips 1.5 pound of coarse brown sugar 1.5 pound of beer 4 pounds of common rice or pearl barley 1.5 pound of salt 1 ounce of black pepper 1.5 pound of water cut up the meat in small pieces break the bones put them in a copper with the 10 gallons of water and stew for half an hour cut up the vegetables put them in with the sugar and beer and boil for 4 hours 2 hours before the soup is wanted add the rice and raspings and keep stirring till it is well mixed in the soup which simmer gently if the liquor reduces too much fill up with water 1.5 hours average cost 1.5 pence per quart note, the above recipe was used in the winter of 1858 by the editress who made each week in her copper 8 or 9 gallons of this soup for distribution among about a dozen families of the village near which she lives the cost as will be seen was not great but she has reason to believe that the soup was very much liked and gave to the members of those families a dish of warm comforting food in place of the cold meat and piece of bread which form with too many cottagers their usual meal when with a little more knowledge of the cooking art they might have for less expense a warm dish every day End of Section 9 Recording by Kalinda in Raymond, New Hampshire on November 18, 2007 LibriVox.org Recording by Katie Gibbany The Book of Household Management by Isabella Beaton Recipes, Chapter 6, Part 3 Meat, poultry, and game soups Brilla soup Ingredients 4 pounds of shin of beef 3 carrots 2 turnips A large sprig of thyme 2 onions 1 head of celery 4 quarts water Mode take the beef cut off all the meat from the bone in nice square pieces and boil the bone for 4 hours strain the liquor let it cool and take off the fat then put the pieces of meat in the cold liquor cut small the carrots turnips and celery chop the onions add them with the thyme and seasoning and simmer till the meat is tender color it with browning thyme, 6 hours average cost, 5 pence per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for 10 persons thyme this sweet herb was known to the Romans who made use of it in culinary preparations as well as in aromatic liqueurs there are two species of it growing wild in Britain but the garden thyme is a native of the south of Europe and is more delicate in its perfume than the others its young leaves give an agreeable flavor to soups and sauces they are also used in stuffings calf's head soup ingredients 1 half a calf's head 1 onion stuck with cloves a very small bunch of sweet herbs 2 blades of mace salt and white pepper to taste 6 ounces of rice flour 3 tablespoon bowls of ketchup 3 quarts of white stock 107 or pot liquor or water mowed rub the head with salt soak it for 6 hours and clean it thoroughly put it in the stew pan and cover it with the stock or pot liquor or water adding the onion and sweet herbs when well skimmed and boiled for 1 and a half hour take out the head and skim and strain the soup add the rice flour with the ketchup thicken the soup with it and simmer for 5 minutes now cut up the head into pieces about 2 inches long and simmer them in the soup till the meat and fat are quite tender season with white pepper and mace finely pounded and serve very hot when the calf's head is taken out of the soup cover it up or it will discolor thyme 2 and a half hours start with stock number 107 seasonable from May to October sufficient for 10 persons note, force meat balls can be added and the soup may be flavored with a little lemon juice or a glass of sherry or madera the bones from the head may be stewed down again with a few fresh vegetables and it will make a very good common stock giblet soup ingredients 2 pounds of goose or duck giblets 2 pounds of shin of beef a few bones 1 ox tail 2 mutton shanks 2 large onions 2 carrots 1 large faggot of herbs salt and pepper to taste 1 quarter pint of cream 1 ounce of butter mixed with a dessert spoon full of flour 3 quarts of water scald the giblets cut the gizzards in 8 pieces 2 pan with the beef bones, ox tail mutton shanks, onions, herbs pepper and salt add the 3 quarts of water and simmer till the giblets are tender taking care to skim well when the giblets are done take them out put them in your terrine strain the soup through a sieve add the cream and butter mixed with a dessert spoon full of flour boil it up a few minutes and pour it over the giblets start with port wine and a little mushroom ketchup instead of cream add salt to taste time 3 hours average cost 9 pence per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for 10 persons gravy soup ingredients 6 pounds of shin of beef a knuckle of veal weighing 5 pounds a few pieces or trimmings 2 slices of nicely flavored lean ham 1 quarter pound of butter 2 onions 2 carrots 1 turnip nearly ahead of celery 1 blade of mace 6 cloves a hunch of savoury herbs with endive seasoning of salt and pepper to taste 3 lumps of sugar 5 quarts of boiling soft water it can be flavored with ketchup lemmington sauce sea sauces slightly brown the meat and ham in the butter but do not let them burn when this is done pour to it the water and as the scum rises take it off when no more appears add all the other ingredients and let the soup simmer slowly by the fire for 6 hours without stirring it anymore from the bottom take it off and let it settle skim off all the fat you can and pass it through a tammy when perfectly cold you can remove all the fat and leave the sediment untouched which serves very nicely for thick gravies, hashes, etc time 7 hours average cost 1 chilling per quart seasonable all the year sufficient for 14 persons endive this plant belongs to the Aseterius tribe of vegetables and is supposed to have originally come from China and Japan but was not introduced to England till about the middle of the 16th century it is consumed in large quantities by the French and in London in the neighborhood of which it is grown in abundance it is greatly used as a winter salad as well as in soups and stews hair soup ingredients a hair fresh killed one pound of lean gravy beef a slice of ham one carrot two onions a faggot of savoury herbs one quarter ounce of whole black pepper a little browned flour one quarter pint of port wine the crumb of two French rolls salt and cayenne to taste three quarts of water mode skin and punch the hair saving the liver and as much blood as possible cut it in pieces and put it in a stew pan add the ingredients and simmer gently for eight hours this soup should be made the day before it is wanted strain through a sieve put the best parts of the hair in the soup and serve or two, proceed as above but instead of putting the joints of the hair in the soup pick the meat from the bones pound it in a mortar and add it with the crumb of two French rolls to the soup heat slowly but do not let it boil send it to table immediately time eight hours average cost one shelling nine pence per quart seasonable from September to February sufficient for ten persons the common hair this little animal is found throughout Europe and indeed in most of the northern parts of the world and as it is destitute of the natural weapons of defense Providence has endowed it with an extraordinary amount of the passion of fear as if to awaken the vigilance of this passion, too he has furnished it with long and tubular ears in order that it may catch the remotest sounds and with full prominent eyes which enable it to see at one and the same time both before and behind it the hair feeds in the evenings and sleeps in its form on the day and as it generally lies on the ground its feet both below and above are protected with a thick covering of hair its flesh though esteemed by the Romans was forbidden by the Druids and by the earlier Britons it is now though very dark and dry and devoid of fat much esteemed by Europeans on account of the peculiarity of its flavor in purchasing this animal both hairs and rabbits when old have their claws rugged and blunt their haunches thick and their ears dry and tough the ears of a young hair easily tear and it has a narrow cleft in the lip wilts its claws are both smooth and sharp Hessean soup ingredients half an ox's head one pint of split peas three carrots one head of celery one bunch of savory herbs pepper and salt to taste two blades of mace a little allspice four cloves the crumb of a French roll six quarts of water mode clean the head rub it with salt and water and soak it for five hours in warm water simmer it in the water till tender put it into a pan and let it cool take out the fat take out the head and add the vegetables cut up small and the peas which have been previously soaked simmer them without the meat till they are done enough to pulp through a sieve add the seasoning with pieces of the meat cut up give one boil and serve time four hours average cost six pence per quart seasonable in winter sufficient for sixteen persons note excellent hash or ragout can be made by cutting up the nicest parts of the head thickening and seasoning more highly a little of the soup and adding a glass of port wine and two tablespoonfuls of ketchup mock turtle one ingredients one half a calf's head one quarter pound of butter one quarter pound of lean ham two tablespoonfuls of minced parsley a little minced lemon thyme sweet marjoram basil two onions a few chopped mushrooms when obtainable two shallots two tablespoonfuls of flour one quarter bottle of madera or sherry four smooth balls cayenne salt and mace to taste the juice of one lemon and one sevile orange one dessert spoonful of pounded sugar three quarts of best stock number 104 mode hold the head with the skin on remove the brain tie the head up in a cloth and let it boil for one hour then take the meat from the bones cut it into small square pieces and throw them into cold water now take the meat put it into a stew pan and cover with stock let it boil gently for an hour or rather more if not quite tender and set it on one side melt the butter in another stew pan cut small with herbs parsley onions shallots mushrooms and nearly a pint of stock let these simmer slowly for two hours and then dredge in as much flour as will dry up the butter fill up with the remainder of the stock add the wine let it stew gently for ten minutes rub it through a tammy and put it to the calf's head season with cayenne and if required a little salt add the juice of the orange and lemon and when liked one quarter teaspoon full of pounded mace and the sugar put in the four smooth balls simmer five minutes and serve very hot time four and a half hours average cost three shillings six pence per quart or two shillings six pence without wine or four smooth balls seasonable in winter sufficient for ten persons the head should be well stewed in the liquor it was first boiled in and will make good white stock flavored with vegetables etc two more economical ingredients a knuckle of veal weighing five or six pounds two cow heels two large onions stuck with cloves one bunch of sweet herbs three blades of mace salt to taste twelve peppercorns twenty four force meatballs a little lemon juice four quarts of water mode put all the ingredients except the force meatballs and lemon juice in an earthen jar and stew for six hours do not open it till cold when wanted for use skim off all the fat and strain carefully place it on the fire cut up the meat into inch and a half squares put it with the force meatballs and lemon juice into the soup and serve it can be flavored with a tablespoon full of anchovy or harvies sauce time six hours average cost one shilling four pence per quart seasonable in winter sufficient for ten persons the calf the flesh of this animal is called veal and when young that is under two months old yields a large quantity of soluble extract and is therefore much employed for soups and broths the Essex farmers have obtained a celebrity for fattening calves better than any others in England where they are plentifully supplied with milk a thing impossible to be done in the immediate neighborhood of London marjoram there are several species of this plant but that which is preferred for cookery is a native of Portugal and is called sweet or knotted marjoram when its leaves are dried they have an agreeable aromatic flavor and hence are used for soups, stuppings, etc basil this is a native of the East Indies and is highly aromatic having a perfume greatly resembling that of clothes it is not much employed in English cookery but is a favorite with French cooks by whom its leaves are used in soups and salads Malagatani soup ingredients whole spoonfuls of curry powder six onions one clove of garlic one ounce of pounded almonds a little lemon pickle or mango juice to taste one fowl or rabbit four slices of lean bacon two quarts of medium stock or if wanted very good best stock mode slice and fry the onions of a nice color line the stew pan with the bacon put in the fried onions the garlic and stock and simmer gently till the meat is tender skim very carefully and when the meat is done rub the curry powder to a smooth batter add it to the soup with the almonds which must be first pounded with a little of the stock put in seasoning and lemon pickle or mango juice to taste and serve boiled rice with it time two hours, average cost one shilling six pence per quart with stock number 105 seasonable in winter sufficient for eight persons note this soup can also be made with breast of veal or calf's head vegetable Malagatani is made with veal stock by boiling and pulping chopped vegetable marrow cucumbers onions and tomatoes and seasoning with curry powder and cayenne nice pieces of meat, good curry powder and strong stock are necessary to make this soup good coriander this plant which largely enters into the composition of curry powder with turmeric originally comes from the east but it has long been cultivated in England especially in Essex where it is reared for the use of the confectioners and drugists in private gardens it is cultivated for the sake of its tender leaves which are highly aromatic it is employed in soups and salads its seeds are used in large quantities for the purposes of distillation a good mutton soup ingredients a neck of mutton about five or six pounds three carrots, three turnips two onions a large bunch of sweet herbs including parsley, salt and pepper to taste a little sherry if liked three quarts of water mode put a pan before the fire and let them remain there the whole day stirring occasionally the next day put the hole into a stew pan and place it on a brisk fire when it commences to boil take the pan off the fire and put it on one side to simmer until the meat is done when ready for use take out the meat dish it up with carrots and turnips and send it to table strain the soup, let it cool skim off all the fat and thicken it with a tablespoon full or rather more of arrowroot flavor with a little sherry simmer for five minutes and serve time, fifteen hours average cost including the meat, one shelling three pence per quart seasonable at any time sufficient for eight persons the sheep this animal formed the principle riches of the patriarchs in the days of old and no doubt multiplied until its species were spread over the greater part of western Asia but at what period it was introduced to Britain is not known it is now found in almost every part of the globe although as a domestic animal it depends almost entirely upon man for its support its value however amply repays him for whatever care and kindness he may bestow upon it for like the ox there is scarcely a part of it that he cannot convert to some useful purpose the fleece which serves it for a covering is appropriated by man to serve the same end to himself whilst its skin is also applied to various purposes in civilized life its entrails are used as strings for musical instruments and its bones are cal-signed and employed as tests in the trade of the refiner its milk being thicker than that of the cow yields a greater quantity of butter and cheese its flesh is among the most wholesome and nutritive that can be eaten Thompson has beautifully described the appearance of the sheep when bound to undergo the operation of being shorn of its wool behold where bound and of its robe bereft by needy man that all-depending lord how meek, how patient the mild creature lies what softness in his melancholy face what dumb complaining innocence appears ox cheek soup ingredients an ox cheek two ounces of butter three or four slices of lean ham or bacon one parsnip three carrots, two onions three heads of celery three blades of mace four cloves a faggot of savory herbs one bay leaf a teaspoonful of salt half that of pepper half that of water mode lay the ham in the bottom of the stewpan with the butter break the bones of the cheek, wash it clean and put it on the ham cut the vegetables small add them to the other ingredients and set the whole over a slow fire for one quarter of an hour now put in the water and simmer gently till it is reduced to four quarts take out the fleshy parts of the cheek and strain the soup into a clean stewpan put in the flour put in a head of sliced celery and simmer till the celery is tender if not a good color use a little browning cut the meat into small square pieces pour the soup over and serve with the crust of a French roll in the terrine a glass of sherry much improves this soup time three to four hours average cost eight pence per quart seasonable in winter sufficient for twelve persons the ox of the quadrupedal animals the flesh of those that feed upon herbs is the most wholesome and nutritious for human food in the early ages the ox was used as a religious sacrifice and in the eyes of the Egyptians was deemed so sacred as to be worthy of exaltation to represent Taurus one of the twelve signs of the zodiac to this day the Hindus venerate the cow whose flesh is forbidden to be eaten and whose fat supposed to have been employed to grease the cartridges of the Indian army was one of the proximate causes of the great seapoy rebellion of 1857 there are no animals of greater use to man than the tribe to which the ox belongs there is hardly a part of them that does not enter into some of the arts and purposes of civilized life of their horns are made combs knife handles boxes, spoons and drinking cups they are also made into transparent plates for lanterns and invention ascribed in England to King Alfred glue is made from their grizzles, cartilages and portions of their hides their bones often form a substitute for ivory, their skins when calves are manufactured into vellum their blood is the basis of Prussian blue their sinews furnish fine and strong threads used by saddlers their hair enters into various manufacturers their tallow is made into candles their flesh is eaten and the utility of the milk and cream of the cow is well known ox tail soup ingredients two ox tails two slices of ham one ounce of butter two carrots, two turnips three onions one leek, one head of celery one bunch of savory herbs one bay leaf a tablespoon full of salt two tablespoons of ketchup one half glass of port wine three quarts of water mode cut up the tails separating them at the joints wash them and put them in a stew pan with the butter cut the vegetables in slices and add them with the peppercorns and herbs put in one half pint of water and stir it over a sharp fire till the juices are drawn fill up the stew pan with the water and when boiling add the salt skim well and simmer very gently for four hours or until the tails are tender take them out skim and strain the soup thicken with flour and flavor with the ketchup and port wine put back the tails simmer for five minutes and serve time four and a half hours average cost one shilling three pence per quart seasonable in winter 10 persons partridge soup ingredients two partridges three slices of lean ham two shred onions one head of celery one large carrot and one turnip cut into any fanciful shapes one small lump of sugar two ounces of butter salt and pepper to taste two quarts of stock number 105 add the butter and ham until quite tender then take out the legs, wings and breast and set them by keep the backs and other trimmings in the braise and add the onions and celery any remains of cold game can be put in and three pints of stock simmer slowly for one hour strain it and skim the fat off as clean as possible put in the pieces that were taken out give it one boil and skim again to have it quite clear now simmer the cut carrot and turnip in one pint of stock when quite tender put them to the partridges and serve time, two hours average cost, two shillings or one shilling six pence per quart seasonable from September to February sufficient for eight persons note, the meat of the partridges may be pounded with the crumb of a french roll and worked with the soup through a sieve serve with stewed celery cut in slices and put in the terrine the partridge this is a timorous bird being easily taken it became known to the greeks and romans whose tables it helped to furnish with food formerly the red was scarce in Italy but its place was supplied by the white which, at considerable expense was frequently procured from the alps the Athenians trained this bird for fighting and Severus used to lighten the cares of royalty by witnessing the spirit of its combats the greeks esteemed its leg most highly and rejected the other portions as unfashionable to be eaten the romans however ventured a little further and ate the breast whilst we consider the bird as wholly palatable it is an inhabitant of all the temperate countries of Europe but on account of the geniality of the climate it abounds most in the Ukraine