Good afternoon everyone. I'm here to tell you about a personal project that I built over the past few months, which is essentially my own smart glasses. Now most of this talk will be based from the point of view from a software developer because that's in general what I am. But what I also want to show you is that I was capable of building this using simple hardware that's available right off the shelf. Well first off I just want to have a very quick introduction as to what smart glasses are. Now the most well-known ones are the Google Glass. These are essentially just glasses which essentially act as a small display right here, which can show you a heads-up display which might give you something that looks a little bit like this. A very quick show of hands. Who here has ever tried smart glasses, something like a Google Glass? Just a couple of hands. For me the first time when I got into smart glasses was when I was working for a small startup company in Holland called GemVision. They offer a solution where remote workers are able to showcase what they're seeing to people at the headquarters. And then from the headquarters they're capable of communicating with a remote worker and give them instructions on what to do. And something is crashing of course, I'm sorry. Let me just very quickly see if I can get this to work again. Yep, there we go. So essentially when you're wearing smart glasses it looks a little bit like this. You can just look around and you have a small heads-up display here in the upper right or below. Now the first thing that you may think is that this is something that will get annoying really quick and that the display itself will be in the way all the time. But the fact of the matter is that it's just a little bit outside of your peripheral vision. So for me it's very easy to just look past the screen and then whenever I want to look up any information I just in this case have to look down and get the information that I need. So what we're working on at GEMVision is... Well, out there. It's infom... Alright, I'm just going to try to do this as quickly as possible or just back and forth. So at GEMVision when people were wearing the glasses their camera was being streamed to another web application using WebRTC. So then via microphones someone at the headquarters could give them instructions on what to do or they could draw in the feed itself. So for example to give them instructions like in this case look at this television over here. The smart glasses that they were using were called the VUZIX M300 which runs on Android and personally I didn't do any work on the smart glasses themselves. I only worked on the web application but I really wanted to give this a try because in my opinion I think smart glasses are going to be a thing of the future. Not in this form but once they get a little bit more like normal glasses people will want to use them. And because these glasses were working on Android I was hoping that I could build something using Cordova.  The smart glasses that they had over there were reserved for their clients so they really just didn't want me prototyping or playing around with them in case they would break. Well that would basically mean that it would cost a lot of money for the company and for the startup that's the last thing you would want. And I would admit this kind of bumped me out a bit because I just really wanted to play around with this but if I wanted to have my own smart glasses I would have to pay at least 1,000 euros which for me is just a little bit too much to pay for something that I just want to prototype with. But then last year I suddenly started thinking I was wondering could I build something like this myself. So I essentially just decided you know what screw it I am going to do it myself. And for this I essentially needed three particular pieces of hardware. Now the recipe that I have for it the first one is you want a view find. Now the view find is the heads up display that I'm wearing here right now. It's nothing what it essentially is nothing more than a second display. You can hook it up to anything like a computer or a camera or a mobile and it will essentially act as a second display either mirroring the output or if I connect it up to my laptop it will basically act as a second screen. The initial approach I wanted to take was to basically build some web applications and then stream it from my mobile to the glasses but the issue I had here was that it wasn't really ideal because the screen would have to be on at all times. And I also wouldn't be able to touch it if I would want to put it away. So I realized that I needed another component and for that I wanted to step over to a Raspberry Pi. Now I assume most people here have played around with a Raspberry Pi or heard of it with your fans. Yeah expected as much. So yeah Raspberry Pi it's just a really cheap computer running on Raspbian just sort of a lineage like environment and at the moment I just have attached to my glasses right here on my left. It's incredibly small like almost the size of a credit card size these days and they're just really powerful that they also have Bluetooth and Wi-Fi, blah blah blah. And finally to get the whole thing up and running I needed nothing more than a simple power bank because the Raspberry Pi itself can run via a mini USB connector and it runs at very low power so when I have it hooked up to a power bank I've used it for at least an hour or so. And when you put all of those together you essentially I was able to get my own smart glasses running but then I ran into one particular big problem and that is that the view find doesn't have any input. It's cheap at the moment because it doesn't add that much functionality so it doesn't have any input. Most other smart glasses like the view find have a touchpad or something that you can use to interact with the apps but the view find doesn't. So for that I started building on a personal platform which I have called Rubai. Now what is Rubai? First off I would say a bit of an assistive name for a project but it's something I came up with in the middle of the night. But what it's actually meant to be is a platform for wearables for glasses like these in which the focus remains on prototyping because I really don't think that by myself I'll be able to build something which is really ready for production. And given that I'm a web developer it's also something that I really wanted to work entirely with web technology just like with HTML and JavaScript. The first part of the Rubai platform is just a display app which is running right here. It's working more than a single page application written in View.js. It has a couple of apps written in it like a camera and Google Maps. When the Raspberry Pi boots it essentially just opens Chrome in kiosk mode in full screen mode so that all that I'll be able to see here is the display is to view the display app and every app that I've built so far is essentially just a page in View.js. So if I want to open the camera app it just goes to the camera page and the view root handles the rest. But then the next problem approach which was essentially input like how should I be able to actually be able to communicate with the Raspberry Pi here and go to the camera page or the Google Maps page. And for that I just came up I tried a couple of things. I can do it via the Gamepad API. Did it fall down or something? Yeah, yeah, yeah. Testing one, two, three. Alright, cool. I really ended up noticing. What I've written was what I've created is a simple remote web application which I can open from my mobile which essentially just works as a remote control and what it basically just does is it keeps sending messages back and forth and a socket IO which is easy library to send real-time messages back and forth. And the best way to showcase just how this works I've prepared a little demo to show how the camera works. Now the View Find also doesn't come with the camera itself so what I've done here is I've bought a USB endoscope which is just a small camera which is essentially meant to get too easy to hard to reach places and using nothing more than simple rubber bands I've attached it to the View Find itself and then just to show how it works here in the upper right it's just a Rubik platform that you would normally have and then here is the mobile app and I can just press Camera and then it opens an application which uses the USB camera to get it which would normally be the endoscope but it's now using the webcam from my laptop and when I press Take Photo here it just sends a message to the display that hey, I want to take a picture from I want to take a picture and then it just creates a Base64 string which it sends back to the mobile and then I can just press Save Image As to store it locally on my device some other apps that I've built with it are the first one is for me actually the most important one which is just a simple browser and in general I use so I can just open any page here most of the time I use this to serve the presentation notes for my talks itself on a side note this has also been sort of my holy grail when it comes to the smart glasses because I often give talk and I just want to be able to see my notes and I want to have them projected right here I'm using it at the moment and this is something that I've been playing around with for about two to three years now and the first prototype, well they need it there is improvement now some other apps that I've written is YouTube so I can watch any type of YouTube videos here which is excellent when you're walking the dog but also when I want to get from point A to point B I've built Google Maps using the Google Maps API and the Image API to display the map here and this one may be a little bit freaky but personally I'm really terrible with faces and names so using face API I'm actually able to do some sort of facial recognition so that whenever I look at someone and it's unable to actually recognize the person and it gets added to the list here and then I can just tap on them and then I can insert their name so this way the next time when I walk up to someone I know that oh it's Anton or hey it's Irene so and for me that could be a great help for the record I haven't tried this in an actual environment yet what I've shown you so far mostly is something that I mostly just hack together using Angular and Vue and personally I just wasn't really happy with the whole concept because every time when I wanted to add a new app I would have to add a page to the remote control which was written in Angular and then something in Vue how they communicated back and forth was just a little bit of a mess so I just started to rewrite the whole thing in which the focus was to create something which would just be a low barrier approach to wearables and with that I mean just to offer a platform to developers to give them an idea on how they can just build simple apps for smart glasses it's something that could technically might be ready for production but I would say the biggest issue here is that the form factor would also need to be improved and I have absolutely no experience with that the biggest thing is that I want the whole project to be web based and framework agnostic essentially meaning that I want the developers to be able to build their very own apps using whatever tools they personally want to use to show that you essentially could build an app using either Vue or Angular, JQuery or vanilla JavaScript, TypeScript, whatever you want and I just wanted to streamline then how the remote would work via the mobile and to demonstrate this I would like to walk you guys through a simple example on how I can now build a Ruby app in the new platform the example itself is just that I want to be able to show a simple to-do list here the items that I still need to do I want to be able to add new items or remove them now to start building this type of app first there's just an app directory that has all the different apps that are available on the platform and the name that you give to the directory sort of uses an internal identifier you have to add a configuration file containing an iron icon and a name now an iron icon is just referenced to an ID iron icons library which is sort of familiar to font awesome this is mostly just a temporary solution and I really want to use developers just to be able to use their own icons and whatever name you give them is how they will show up on the apps page next you want to add just a simple index.html file which is what will be served which the display will show if the user collects an app so in this particular case I've now just created a very simple page with a red background and the next time when the user clicks on the to-do list this is what they'll see right here so the to-do app would have been opened at this point now next what we want to do is actually add some functionality so that we can actually communicate here via the remote controls and for that I've written a simple helper class in which you can just pass along a list of input form inputs which in this example what I first just want to do is I want to give people the opportunity to add an item so I'm giving it two items a text input and a button and so when this array is sent from the display to the remote controls then on the remote controls you'll see something like this now and here also for the button I've also indicated that if the user would click the button on their mobile the display app, this function will be called so if the user has filled something in and they press add item then the app here will get an event for that and then you can just add the item itself to a list so this will ensure that the to-do items will appear right here on the viewfinder now what you want to do next also is to allow the user to be able to remove any to-do items after they finish them and essentially it's practically doing the same thing as I did before with the add items so if you... did it fall again? sorry for that and the... so when there are any items in the to-do list then I'll just add a divider along with the title saying remove items and then for each item that I have I'll add a button with the name of the text the idea that if you press the button it will then remove it from the to-do list again so in this particular example I'm now sending the following information to the display itself so above first again the two items which allow you to add something but after that I also add a button for each list on the... an item for... I will add a button from each item that is currently in the to-do list and so then on the remote control you will get something that looks like this so the user can easily just press a button to indicate that hey I've done this particular task and removing items is again nothing more than just updating the array and sending a new updated list to the remote control and for me the most thing that I'm happy about here is that this particular example I was able to put together in about 20 minutes and that in the end has always been for me the main priority for this project that I just want to be able to create useful tools to try out my own things with smart glasses and that's essentially in the end also what this whole entire project has been about personally it's also just been a really fun way to just step aside my usual flow of HTML and JavaScript and just try out some new stuff so that's one of the things that I'm just really happy about and what I'm just mostly amazed about is that I'm capable of doing this with just a simple hardware that's available right off the shelf well to round off thank you for them for giving me this platform to speak I also want to do a very quick shout out to my parents who are currently watching live hi mom hi dad and with that thank you very much what is the total cost of the project like how much did you spend of the all hardware let's see the few so the question is how much the hardware is right yeah the few finish about 100 euros and then the Raspberry Pi is around 20 30 euros or so pardon there's a Google board for Raspberry Pi which you can use for speech recognition and you can integrate it like and just make Google Glass like from scratch what's it called how can I look it up thanks I think to use some kind of 3D printed casing because the project is cool but it looks a little bit kind of a mess it does no I completely agree so did you try because you can order a custom made yeah so the question is whether I've actually tried out something anything with a 3D printed case or like I said at the moment it's been in the back of my mind I have some friends who have printers and I do want to sit with them at some point and see if we can actually create something better looking than this but yeah then you also need to have the battery and everything implemented so I think that's going to be the challenge there just a quick remark if Trevor also is watching there are people from across the world who are interested in the project and who do have 3D printing skill and design to indeed combine the case and everything so thanks for your presentation just a quick one when do you think the hardware is going to be able to catch up with the software so the question is when will the hardware reduce in size enough but it will just be in someone's glasses they will be available at an opticians so the question is when the hardware will be available for the glass itself and yeah and then I'm just afraid that I'm just not much of a hardware person and I'm really not following that enough at the moment to give a proper answer I know that there is, at the very least there are the glasses out there called the fuchsic blades which look remarkably like normal glasses and project them and project the text actually on the glasses itself but those are also like really expensive at the moment so quick remark on the next person thinks of the question for this you have for example the face by north about $600 more or less and they look roughly like your glasses the branch are a bit thicker but not so much they do have a small display I think the interaction is really limited but this you can buy not at a normal optician they have like two shops in the US one in Toronto or North America one in Toronto one in Brooklyn but they are going to ship a version 2 anywhere in the world will they be on Ruben's platform still to be discussed but this is the kind of order basically the geekiest you look the more powerful in terms of features but then the more normal they look the less features like depth sensing since you're still thinking I just saw that which is as clownish as it gets it's a better appeal that I nearly stepped on to keep the mic so please when you leave the room if you see cans and everything please do pick it up it's a volunteer based event if you don't pick it up then we don't actually come to the ULB next time because we're not welcome anymore so please do pick up whatever it doesn't have to be yours this is not my banana I'm going to throw it somewhere so next, yeah, thank you Have you experienced with using a small camera as an eye tracker for buttons or voice? Not in particular Are there any keep variants? Well, I don't have anything in specific in mind but as you have attached a small outward facing camera perhaps there could be a smaller one facing your own iris and perhaps do some kind of tracking for a look up to the right for okay and left and something like that I like the idea of basically using an eye tracker to control the user interface but already the endoscope that I'm using at the moment I already bought it off a very sketchy website and it has a very low quality so I don't think it would even be able to recognize you but I do really like the idea something to keep in mind So we have time for a couple of more questions with an idea Dr. Steven Hawkins used to be able to type with his just a comment that you could also use muscular features to do some control It's not really interesting There is a project also at MIT at the media lab using I think the what those muscles are called but you have just a whisper you don't actually say anything and in terms of richness of interaction it is quite good in terms of input it works pretty well and I think it's open source A couple more still I'd use suggestions questions doubts My feedback is I don't mind feedback Have you thought of using computer vision for recognizing hand gestures using the small camera that's already built into the device Pardon Using hand gestures as a form of control you have the camera already on your device so we can try to do something with OpenCV to recognize certain hand gestures and using those hand gestures to control the device Right, so the idea is essentially that with the camera that I can put in here it's able to track my hand here and then I could swipe back and forth Is that correct? That's actually also a really cool idea I'm really glad that you guys are giving me the ideas So thanks for that You've got Bluetooth If you've got Bluetooth on the Raspberry Pi you could use a wireless mouse to move the pointer and have an on-screen keyboard on the So yeah, using the Bluetooth API as a tracker that's also one of the things that I've been playing around with mostly just using the GamePad API but the biggest issue where I ran across there is essentially that I would then have to create a whole interface here and when I started out with the project that was just a little bit too much work like I would have to create a virtual keyboard and everything but it is one of the things that I am interested in trying out in the future If you can point the camera into your eye you can also use a pupil movement tracker eye movement tracker I think that's one of the ideas that were suggested earlier Yeah, that's also cool Thank you so much That's it for today Thank you so much for your attention


Minä olen pitänyt sanoa, että se on todella ympäristöryhmä, josta Eurooppaa, josta ekonomi on todella ympäristöryhmä, ja asioita on järjestävä. Seuraavuus tarvitaan seuraavuus. Mutta jos on yksi ihmisiä, jotka on todella ympäristöryhmä, se on Aris. Onko sinun ympäristöryhmä todella ympäristöryhmä, josta se on ympäristöryhmä. Ympäristöryhmä on ympäristöryhmä. Se on ympäristöryhmä. Minä katsotaan myös enemmän, kuin eri. Ympäristöryhmä on ympäristöryhmä, mutta Eurooppaa-ekonomia on ympäristöryhmä. Se on ympäristöryhmä. Nyt on mukavaa, mutta persoja on seuraavuus. Ympäristöryhmä, on seuraavuus. Sitä on tärkeä, että ypäristöryhmä on erittäin kohtuutettu, ei oo ramisteltä aina. Se on erittäin kohtu. Eli etenkin haluan alkaa. More than enough columnists and analysts who do that. In fact, I came here to discuss with you what is right about Europe and how we can solve our shared problems. Let's not focus on what we have done wrong in the past, but on what we can do right in the future. As the new European Commission is preparing to take office, Europe is engaged in the lively debate about the future. The future direction of Europe's economic policy. Some say we need more flexibility to make space for bigger public investments. Others say we should not repeat past mistakes instead focus on improving the competitiveness of our economies. I think Ireland and Finland have a shared commitment. That is to promote structural reform, innovation, open markets, free trade and fiscal prudence. In short, improved economic competitiveness. The EU countries collectively and individually are faced with a stark choice, reform or decline. We cannot sustain the current level of prosperity and public services with solutions of the past. That is simply not an option. The only way forward is reform. We need reform at the EU level, but most of all we need it at the national level. In short, we must reinvent our economies. The Irish, you certainly know that and I don't need to convince you. I want to share with you Finland's agenda for reinventing Europe's economy. But before I do that, I must address one common misperception in the current debate. Some people see competitiveness as a challenge to Europe's welfare model. They fear that reforms aimed at making our economies more dynamic will undermine the welfare society we built over the post-war decades. This is simply not true. In Finland we see economic competitiveness as the only way of preserving and improving our Nordic model. In an open economy such as ours, competitiveness and generous welfare society go hand in. The two are friends, not enemies. It's no coincidence that the Nordic countries rank high both in competitiveness and in social justice. The German foundation Wörthesmann Stiftung just recently published its new index comparing the social justice of all 28 EU countries. The top three countries were Sweden, Finland and Denmark. All strong believers in competitiveness. Finland certainly has its own issues. We have unemployment and social exclusion. Our economy has been badly hit by the global crisis and global shift also in our manufacturing. Some of our big reforms are proceeding painfully slow. My friends, what should we do then? I will present four points that I consider to be essential for reinventing Europe's economies. These points require action at the national level, European and global level. My first point is let's do our housework. Each and every EU member state must get serious about structural reform. No one else can do it for them. Not Brussels and certainly not other member states. Some EU states are more advanced than others. Take Ireland for example. But we all have more work to do. In Finland we are reorganizing our health and social services. We are about to raise the minimum retirement age by two years to 65. We are streamlining the public sector by cutting local government services. We are creating incentives for unemployed people to accept a job. And at the same time we are investing in education and research to create something new. This is very much work in progress. Moving forward Finland needs greater public investment in education, training and innovation. We need to get more people into the labour market. We need more productivity gains from ICT and digitalization. We need more competition and less regulation and so on. This kind of reforms are often painful and politically very unpopular. It boils down to political leadership. Jean-Claude Juncker once famously said, we all know what to do. We just don't know how to get re-elected after we've done it. I have nothing but respect for the next president of the European Commission. But I respectfully disagree on this statement. European leaders do win elections even after introducing difficult economic reforms. Chancellor Merkel got re-elected in Germany. President Anastas Jaades won the European election in Cyprus. And without interfering too much with Irish politics. Let me just say that your T-Shock and a Kenny seems to be doing quite well in opinion polls. Now my friends, let me move on to my second point. Let's use our common European instruments to boost innovative digital and green economy. Digital technology is transforming our societies and economies. Europe has enormous potential to benefit from the transformation, but first we need to catch up. Europe has lost its leadership in information technology. Europe was the global leader in telecommunications. Finland's Nokia being one shining example. But the world around us changed faster than we did. We had no internal market, no common European standard for the digital economy. The United States is now the leader in digital economy. This is actually quite remarkable. It's not so long ago that we finns with our fancy mobile phones were making jokes about Americans and their old-fashioned pages. You remember these little peepers? Well, we are not laughing anymore. No, we take our iPhones, Google, what we want to know and tweet what we want to say. So Europe may have lost a set, but still I think we haven't lost a match. Digitalisation is now transforming manufacturing and industrial processes. Europe can take a key role in that and win back some of the competitive edge we have lost to the emerging economies. Take, for example, the Internet of Everything, which connects machines and industrial processes with countless new applications and smart solutions. It will improve resource efficiency and productivity of manufacturing and hence improve Europe's competitiveness. E-solution changed the way we provide healthcare and other public services and while doing so they will generate new economic activity. And let me take another key area and that is green growth, enabled by cleaner technologies. Just last week our leaders met at the United Nations in New York to reaffirm our commitment to curb climate change. We should see climate change not only as a threat, but also as a driver to create new demand for clean technologies. Europeans have the knowledge and expertise to take lead in that. We have a head start with energy technology because we have taken climate change seriously. We just need to give our businesses the freedom and incentives to grow. Green growth takes many forms. Take advanced biofuels as one example. And here I mean second and third generation biofuels made of waste and byproducts of industrial processes, not food crops. Bussies in parts of California runs on European biofuels. The Finnish airline Finner just last week operated a test flight from Helsinki to New York using biofuels partly manufactured from cooking oil recycled from restaurants. It also came back. Increasing the use of advanced biofuels across Europe will cut emissions, create jobs and improve Europe's energy independence. For that to happen we need EU level incentives and policies to encourage investments in sustainable renewable energy sources. Europe should not waste its waste. We have much waste I think in every member state. My third point then let us embrace open markets. We cannot and should not shy away from competition because openness is the key to Europe's economic future. We have to work with the markets not against them. Globalization means intense competition, that's true, we all know that. And Europe has not been doing particularly well in recent years. But globalization will move ahead with or without us. Europe alone cannot change the nature of modern global economy. Looking ahead it is essential that Europe is strong and dynamic and will thrive in this global economy. New technologies and global value chains are changing the dynamic back in Europe's favor. The advantage is shifting away from emerging countries with cheap labor to countries with higher skills and innovation. When one part is made here, the other part there and the product is assembled somewhere else. The greatest value often comes from the creative process. Automatization and robotics are making manufacturing less dependent on human labor. Europe with its advanced societies, skilled people and stable solutions, stable institutions will thrive in this new environment. If we really want to see growth in Europe and I think my goodness we do, we must get serious about completing the internal market. After all these years we still don't have one. There still are barriers where none should exist. We should be making sure there is a genuine digital single market, a well-developed market in services and capital markets and the realization of the European energy market. We need market access also beyond Europe. Trade and investment agreements with the United States and other key partners are an enormous opportunity to generate growth and jobs. Finland is a strong supporter of the TTIP agreement. We see it as a billion euro opportunity Europe simply cannot afford to miss. The European Commission estimates it would create hundreds of thousands of jobs in Europe. We see the great opportunity also for Finnish businesses, big and also for small. This brings me to my fourth point. Let's make Europe an attractive place to do business and make investments. After all it's our businesses that generate growth and create jobs, not the public sector. Ireland is probably an exception but it's not always easy to run a business in Europe. I know it because that is what I did for over ten years as an entrepreneur before I came to politics. One issue is the quality of legislation and the weight of red tape. Finland has been active in the debate about better European legislation. For us it's not just about cancelling EU regulation more than that is about the quality of the legislation. We cannot have a functioning internal market without EU legislation and standards. In most cases one piece of European legislation is better than 28 different national laws. But the EU should not regulate everything and when it does it should always keep businesses in mind. I think the Junkka Commission has got this message and will take it now seriously. Appointing a vice president for better regulation is a most welcome step. In fact the Finnish government proposed that already last year. I'm happy that he heard this, our little wish. One essential way to create new jobs is to boost our small and medium sized enterprises. According to the Commission, small and medium sized enterprises provide two thirds of Europe's private sector jobs. In many ways SMEs are the backbone of our economy. But in many European countries smaller business struggle to get financing for the viable investments. A great deal has been achieved to stabilize the Eurozone financial markets. We have a banking union that EU has launched a program to ease access to finance for SMEs. But I think we still have to do something more. Dear friends, I have covered my simply four point agenda for reinventing Europe's economy. Being in Ireland I would be surprised if there was something you don't agree with me. So I look forward to hearing your reactions. But before I stop I wanted to raise one final point. To change our economies for the better we must not only make that change happen. We must also believe in it. If we Europeans don't believe in ourselves who then will. I think it's time Europe regained its self-confidence. I say this because economy is also a matter, always a matter of expectations and confidence. Europe has a great deal to be proud of. European integration has delivered stability and well-being to European citizens on a scale never seen before in the continent's history. We have managed to combine free market economy with social and environmental responsibility. Our schools, healthcare systems and other public services are next to none. The pressure from this historic economic crisis has made us think in new innovative ways and implement reforms that otherwise would have not happened. Our economies are getting stronger after a very, very difficult period. We are already seeing that here in Ireland and elsewhere. With a bold reform agenda Europe can prosper economically and maintain a generous welfare system. Europe can regain the upper hand in new technologies and industries if we invest in innovation and unleashes the potential of open markets. As I said, Europe has a great deal to be proud of and I believe Europe will emerge from the economic crisis stronger than before. Thank you for your attention.


Hey, what's up, folks? Welcome back to another episode of 3D Hangouts. My name is Nueva Ruiz. I'm a designer here at Adafruit. Joining me every week is my brother Pedro. Good morning, everybody. I'm Pedro's creative tech here at Adafruit, and every week we're here to share three printed projects featuring electronics from Adafruit. That's right. This is where we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects. We are hanging out in the Discord chat room if anyone would like to join us during the show, comments, banter, all the good stuff, questions. You can join us by using the invite link, a-d-a-f-r-u-dot-i-t-slash-discord. Or over at discord.gg-slash-adafruit. We're hanging out in all of the chats, including YouTube, LinkedIn, Facebook, Twitch. Good morning to everybody hanging out. Quick shout-outs to everybody hanging out. Over on Discord, we have Mathis. We have Mr. Certainly Bruce. We've got Lit City, DIY, Liz hanging out, Handy Callaway, Jim Hendrickson over on the YouTube. We have Nassan, Rolls, and a couple people hanging out in the Twitch and LinkedIn. Good morning to everybody hanging out on Facebook. Yes, yes. We are streaming on all of the channels. Yeah. Shout-out Restream. I'll go through the housekeeping stuff in the morning, and then we'll get into this week's project. It's a deep dive into the Midi Fighter project. Oh yeah, it's another long one all about Midi. Yeah, so let's see. First up, check out Adafruit.com slash free. Your order supports everybody and the team, Lady Aida herself, and we have some deals going on. If you want to check those out, go to Adafruit.com slash free. Every order gets a free black surgical mask right now, and then orders that kind of have different tiers will get different freebies. I will skip those because that takes a little bit of time, so be sure to check out Adafruit.com slash free. 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Shows a lot of circuit Python stuff, maker business and that's just some of them. So if you're interested in that, check out Adafruitdaily.com and subscribe to the categories that you like. All right. I think I'm ready to start. All right. So we're taking a look at the learn guide that's in review. We're so close near the final stages of publishing. It's so close. I can feel it. Shout out to Ann Borrella who does a lot of the copy edits and guide reviews. Once it's done with Ann, then it moves on to Lamar and then we can publish it. So here's kind of a preview. I'll do that demo later of the learn guide. So the home page talks about the parts that you'll need. It's quite a bit. Yeah. So please sign up to get notified when the parts are available. The Raspberry Pi Pico, we don't have any control over the stock and it's kind of up in the air when we can get those back in stock, hopefully soon. And some other stuff as well like the LED driver and the OLED display. We have the buttons in stock. That's nice. There's some ancillary things like cables, the five-way navigation switch, panel mounted USB cables and we also have some sets of screws and some, what would you call them, sets of screws, some kits, something like that and assortment of screws. Speaking of screws, I have them all listed here. There's a good handful of them like any build that has things that need to be panel mounted. There's a good hand of screws and I have them broken out in a list that has categories. So like the handle and the cable, the OLED, the PCB mount probably has the most of them. So yeah. Is that, is that good? Yeah. Is our audio okay? Yeah, is our audio okay? Yeah. Okay, excited. I can't hear any of it. All right. That's the home page, parts list. There's a prerequisite guides as well. Folks are new to the Raspberry Pi Pico or new to the LED driver which is also a GPIO expander. You can check out these three guides. They're dedicated for those products. If you want to go more deep into those products, you can check out the individual guides for them. So the OLED has its own guide. The LED driver and the Pico has their own guides with lots of sample code and stuff. Yeah. Okay. Should I back up and talk about the project or does everybody know about the project already? No, there's new people coming in. So go ahead and do the elevator pitch spiel. I should try it. Why? You should build this awesome MIDI fighter with the Raspberry Pi Pico $4 microcontroller. Cool. So this is a MIDI device. It's using arcade buttons and the Raspberry Pi Pico. The Raspberry Pi Pico has tons of GPIO. They power the LEDs. We're using a GPIO expander because we've kind of used all the pins on the Pico. The main feature about this thing is that you can change and update the MIDI notes on the fly. So there's this five-way joystick and this little OLED display shows these little circles that represent the buttons. And so you can use the five-way joystick to select one of the buttons. Let's take this top one here. 47, these numbers correspond to the MIDI number, the MIDI note. You can pull up a chart to see what the MIDI notes are assigned to a MIDI number. But you can use the joystick to update the MIDI note and you can know what button you're changing because it's blinking. So that's really sweet. Now, there's some flicker. You could probably notice that. It's because it's a webcam in RL. You don't see that. That's just a byproduct of a refresh rate of the display. That's an older display. That's a gray scale. Cool. So you can hit, enter sort of the select. So the joystick has a four-way up, down, left, right, right, up, down, left, right. And then to select, you just push in and then that's the note I'm changing. So this is kind of the edit mode. And then you want to make sure to get out of edit mode by clicking in the center again. And then that saves that. I got some tom-toms. Sweet. So it's a MIDI device. You can plug it into any DAW or capable MIDI, another MIDI device. If you want to control a different MIDI device, you can do that. So it doesn't actually make the sounds. What's making the sounds is this little iPhone here. I have this adapter here that takes the audio out and routes it into this little mixer that's coming through the Wirecast setup. But yeah, any MIDI capable software will work, like Ableton, Reason, Logic, et cetera. GarageBand on the iPhone. I really like this kit. It sounds so good. It's kind of got that live feel to it. Sweet. So let's talk about the case. 3D printed case. It has all the things. It's a snap-fit case. So it's easy to kind of open it up. It's got these little grabber things. Here's all the wires. Lovely colorful wires. There's the LED driver right there. It's mounted to this super crazy PCB mount. We went ahead and designed a custom PCB for the five-way navigation switch. But we could 3D print it as well, which is what you could do. We have a file for folks that you can do that. But if you want to send this off to Oshpark or mill it yourself, we got a board file, an Eagle file, which should be able to upload to services like Oshpark. The OLED display is really awesome. It's a grayscale OLED display. It has these Stem-AQT connectors on it, which make it super easy to plug into other devices. So you got your two I2C devices. You got the LED driver and the OLED display. And then you can daisy-chain those into the Pico. Yeah. Right. So we got this panel-mounted USB cable. Like it's mounted to this over here. And let's go. I opened it up and I can still play it. All the grounds are wired up and shared. And this is all documented with lovely photos in the LRN guide. Yeah. So it's a bit of a 3-piece setup. You got the cover here and then you have this frame. And then this also comes out. You can see here these are how the snap fits are working. We got two sets on each side here. One, two, six on that. And I figured I'd leave these grills here open so that you can kind of see through it. And also it reduces some print time. And it looks kind of fancy. And this little metal here thing is just to support it so it's not so flexible. I want to add an extra window here just so you can see more of it. Yeah. So let me kind of put it back together. Kind of lunchbox style. The handle is a 3D printed in place piece. So these hinges are all assembled already for you. And then you can use some screws and hex nuts to mount it to the side of the frame. There's a bit of an angle here. You see the way it's angled. That allows you to use the, as a kickstand, the handle as a kickstand. So I'm just going to go ahead and put this back together. It's pretty chunky, like the thickness of it, which works well for all the buttons as they are not low profile. They're kind of like the standard big old buttons. But if you have a low profile, then, well, you can fit some snacks inside and have yourself a lunchbox. Which is cool when you fit a Capri Sun with some Cheez-Its or whatever snacks you like. But yeah, I really like it as an elevated thing. Print it in whatever color. This is acrylic, but we can also 3D print this little window here. Or if you don't want one, just don't put one there. I had it in another room, but yeah, you can laser cut. We got files to either laser cut this or CNC mail it. You can use the CAD file that we have in the Learn Guide. This is a little rubber nub that's in, I think, silicone. It's really nice. I could have 3D printed one, but I really like silicone. And it's something you could purchase. So I figured let's just use that. Yeah, forgot to mention, this is the collab project with Liz Clark. Give her a shout out. She's in the chat room, I think. We, this is a really fun project to work on. And all of our music projects are in collab with Liz at this point, so it's really awesome. She did such a fantastic job on this GUI. It is such a cool way to kind of get this sort of feature working. And it's all written in Circuit Python, which makes it really editable and customizable. We can plug this into any computer and the code and the library show up, unlike an Arduino sort of board. If you plug in your Arduino, it doesn't know what the code is. But when you plug in a Circuit Python, you get your code and new libraries and your assets and whatever else. Like we could have used a different font. This is a built-in font that we really like, but you could use fonts and bitmaps and all sort of fun stuff. We'll take a deep dive into the code walkthrough so you can get a close look at all the awesome features. Yeah. Hey, you can really tell that you can actually play music because of the user experience on the way that the buttons all work and navigation is all intuitive. So yeah, big shout-outs for that. And she's also in the chat room posting about some of her design process like the 3D printed button holder. So get on the Discord if you want to see some of that chat or ask any questions. Sweet. Cool. And then I am posting the link to the STL files. People already want to print this out. So if you want to get access before the guide is released, I'll put the links to all those in all of the chats. You can start printing all these right away. Sorry about that. I just had to fix that. I love audio. Oh, wonderful, wonderful. All right, so we did a demo. We talked about some features. Let's go ahead and dive into the builds and see how much we can get through. So yeah, like Peter said, hopefully we'll have this released very soon. If you're watching this in the future, it's been out. So that's great. So the first one, we want to set up our Raspberry Pi Pico with Circuit Python. It's really easy to do so. We have a full page here that walks you through step by step how to do it. I'll just kind of say it real quick. You can get your Raspberry Pi into the boot loader mode by holding down the boot select button and plugging it into your computer with a USB cable that can do data. You want to be careful with those USB cables. There's a lot of USB cables that are charged only. They're not going to do data. And hey, we have a nice note about that. Make sure you have a USB cable that is good for data sync. That just seems to be like the 99.9% problem that we have with folks that are trying to install Circuit Python or do any type of programming on the microcontroller. Get yourself a USB cable that has data. I guess it'd be like the first warning. Like before we even start the project, there seems to be a lot of people who aren't musicians but want to build this. That's to be their first project. So definitely we'll have to make sure that is a nice big red box around it. Yeah, but once you're in the boot loader mode, the Raspberry Pi Pico shows up as a USB drive. And then you're going to download this UF2 file, which we have a link to, right? Right there, the big green button. You download that. And let's go ahead and take a look at the website. So this is circuitpython.org. If you click on the downloads button up here, these are all the boards, not just from A to F, but also from the community that can install Circuit Python. So tons and tons of hardware. We even have some other fun musical devices like the Neotrallas. Yeah, lots of fun gaming things too as well. So there's so much Circuit Python support for boards and it's just an endless... Why would you use anything else? Why would you folks? Why, yeah. All right, so there's the Raspberry Pi Pico and then there's this button here that says download UF2 now. And check it out, we have the latest beta. It's always nice to kind of update your Circuit Python so you can get the latest stuff, optimizations and all the things that get added. So that's the page that really walks you through it. And then we also have this super extra Nuke UF2. Something goes really wrong with your Raspberry Pi Pico because we've had it happen. There's an extra UF2 that you can use, but that's like, again, it's a Nuke, but yeah. All right, the next thing is getting the code. Really, actually the next thing is to getting the libraries. So because your microcontroller is a microcontroller, it doesn't have a lot of storage. So to get the libraries, you really want to pick the libraries that are dedicated and necessary for this project and this is a list of them. So in the previous page, we walk you through installing the library bundle, which if you go to where I was, the CircuitPython.org, click on libraries. This big bundle here will download every single library for CircuitPython, which is awesome, but you only want to install the ones that are necessary for this project and that's these right here in the bullet list. The bus device, display shapes, text, MIDI library, and the register library. And also some extra ones here, SimpleIO, the SSD1327, which is the driver for the OLED, and the AW9523, which is the LED driver that's driving the LEDs. But yeah, so then this is the full code. It is available on GitHub. Check out these, you can download the zip project here, the code file itself, or check it out on GitHub. If you want to contribute, you can do a pull request, I think, and yeah, but there is the code already live on GitHub page if you want to post that link. I have it in there, so you can post that. So folks want to get it right away, get your board installed and go to town on it. Liz has it all commented. Super easy to come in here and read the comments. If you're new to programming or a beginner programmer like I am, the comments really help a lot to decipher what's going on. Yeah, and then at the bottom here, we have a nice screenshot that gives you an idea of what your circuit Python USB drives should look like. So you got your code file. There's some hidden things here, I think in Windows or Linux. But here's the library folder. You want to drop all of those libraries inside of a lib folder, and that's where your libraries live. If they're not in the lib folder, the program won't know that you have libraries. So just stuff them in there and this gives you a good visual as to kind of review, hey, does your circuit Python drive look like this? It should. Onto the code walkthrough. This one really breaks down all the segments. So the first bit is importing the libraries. Here we have all the libraries listed, setting up MIDI and the I squared C. Bus is all set up through here. The display setup is all set up as well. It says so the circles and the text, rather the circles and the rectangles are all drawn with the display shapes library, which is really cool. So there's no bitmaps for these shapes. They're just kind of drawn in code, which is really awesome. It's nice and optimized and loads really fast. So yeah.  The MIDI note labels here. These can be updated if you want to change the kind of default MIDI notes. It goes from 60 all the way to 75. But you can change those here because these are the labels in the circles themselves. And then we'll look at the MIDI notes in the later down. The secondary menu is focusing on the edit mode where you're editing.  There you go. Big splashes the name of that one. This one walks through the pins, assigning the pins for the LEDs. If you want to change them, you can, but they're chronological. So it goes from 0 to 15. Total 16. Yeah. And then here are the note pins. So your arcade buttons. They're also chronological. We're just skipping GP-15 because that's dedicated for the boot select button, I suppose, or maybe something else. But just don't use that button. And don't use GP-15. So just skip that and the rest are listed there for you. Yeah. The five-way navigation switch. Depending on the way you're orienting the switch, it'll change like up is down and down is up. So you could change these if you'd like, but the guide will walk you through. Is there like a notch or some sort of marking on the switch? There is, but depending on the supplier, maybe that notch doesn't necessarily mean it's ground. So I have a schematic that we'll take a look at. Yeah, state machines. There's a couple states here. The GUI setup. The MIDI notes. This is a good one to highlight here. So if you do want to change the stock MIDI assigned numbers, notes, you can change them in this area of the code. It starts with 60 and through 75. If you do change those, just make sure you also change up here. The labels for the actual GUI. So you just want to make sure those are updated. Yeah. But the whole point is to be able to change them on the fly, right? So, yeah. There's some switch to bouncing so that we don't forever, you know, mistake an input. So that's what the switch to bouncing is there for. Here's the actual MIDI input stuff. Very nice. If you have more, you can change the range number here from 16 to whatever you have. If you can tie multiple GPIOs together, GPIO expanders. And then there's some more stuff about the GUI navigation. Scrolling up, down, left, right, X and Y positions. So definitely take a moment to walk through the whole thing. There's so much. It's awesome. Every little piece is broken out for folks. So if you're new or novice, you can take a look and get all the info. Next up, circuit diagram. So once you have all the code uploaded to your GPIO, it's time to start wiring up some stuff. So we put together this circuit diagram. There's a lot of wired connections. So we figured it'd be nice to color code them and to kind of break them out. So that way you can kind of decipher them because they're color coded. Using every palette. Every palette of the color. Yeah, lots of rainbow color. So sweet. Yeah, and we suggest soldering from the back, the bottom of the PCB. That's really nice because you got labels on the bottom. The labels are not up on top. They're actually on the bottom of the PCB and they help you figure stuff out. I don't know what else to say. But yeah, normally we put this together with fritzing. I put this together in Photoshop, but you can use Adafruit's library if you want to create some really nice wiring diagrams. Fritzing is a free piece of software. That can do wiring diagrams, PCBs. You name it. So check it out. Open source. And then for accessibility purposes, we break out and list out all the connections here. So all the buttons and switches, LEDs, they're all kind of telling you what GP numbers, GPIO numbers to use. Yes, yes. All right. On to the 3D printing. So where you can download stuff. I have a Fusion 360 Share link, which allows you to preview the CAD design in the browser. You can navigate around it and see all the different parts that are modeled in it. The CAD source features the original timeline. It's a parametric model designed in Fusion 360. It uses user parameters, which allows you to quickly adjust things like the spacing of the buttons, the diameter of the holes, the wall thickness, the sizes of the snaps, all sorts of fun stuff that I think folks will want to customize if it's not quite fitting or they want a thicker build or something, you have complete control over that. Let's see. The step files, if you are wanting to use a different CAD package like Rhino or what's the other one? Solidworks. OpenScan. I don't think OpenScan can do step. Whatever 3D modeler that can open step file, it's sort of a more open format than Fusion 360 because you can only open it in Fusion 360, right? But if folks just want to download the STLs, I have those as a zip file so folks can download that. So three different ways to get the CAD files. When it comes to that little window, it's really like meant to be personalized. So if you want to add your own text to it or create your own or put some decals on it, make it yours is kind of the thing there. I played around with different colors of acrylic, different things to etch or engrave into it. So I have two available. So one that has like the MIDI logo on it and then one that's just like a blank window. So hopefully that's good enough. It gets installed by press fitting it into the cutout. You want to do this right after you've printed the thing. So in order of operations, you definitely want to install your stuff first here. It just press fits in. It should have a tight fit. If it doesn't, if it's too loose, you're going to want to add some super glue or some hot glue to hold it in place. Yeah. Because tolerances are tough to get. I'll print something on my print on the Ultimaker. It's got nice and tight tolerances. I'll print it on the cruelty and it's loose. I'll reprint an exact same file that was still on the printer and it's completely different somehow. Somehow. How did this change? It's the exact same file. I didn't change anything. Yeah. It's the world of tolerances. So the next thing is to secure the 3D printed handle to the frame with these hex nuts and these M3 screws. Before doing so though, this photo here kind of is a visual indicator. Like what's the right orientation? Because it's kind of symmetrical. You can install it the wrong way. You know what I'm saying?  So it's actually elevated.  So there's that. Using these hex nuts to secure it down, they are lock nuts, right? They have that nylon insert so they're not going to unfasten themselves. Yeah. And then once that handle is installed in the frame, it's easy to snap fit the bottom cover. And I also have a layer by layer here on how I designed the printed place handle kind of from scratch from start to finish in this tutorial. It's about a half hour long. So if you want to get some insights into how to use Fusion 360, this is a good one if you're first timer and if you're interested in learning. So I got that there for you. All right. Next up onto the PCB mount assembly. So I'll kind of run through these a little bit quicker because there's a lot but they are definitely thorough. List of screws for this PCB mount. This one uses all the sizes M3, M25, and M2. Sorry. If I was designing all the boards, I'd make them all M3, but I'm not. So we have to use them all. All M3, M25, and M2. So this just walks you through installing them and making sure that they're in the right orientations. Cool. Wiring up the five-way navigation switch is sort of the first thing I want folks to do. So we have a download link here for the PCB files. Figure out how you want to go about it. Do you want to just print the PCB? That's totally fine. You want to mill it. You can do that or you can send it off to a service like Oshpart to have a nice silk screen and through-hole plating, which is what I have here. Here's a photo of, like, installing the five-way switch into the PCB. Those little legs that are exposed, that's where you want to solder your wires to. And we have a little screenshot here of the schematics. So you can click on the large this. So if you want to make that larger, just click on it. You can get a better... This is just ripped from the data sheet of the switch, but you can see here one is A and then four is common and then pin six over here is the center switch. Yeah, so you can use this to kind of reference because it's a little bit difficult with the printed PCB to know what pin is what. So that's why I have that there and you can also download the schematic. As a PDF, you want to enlarge it. So that's what I have here. I figure that'd be nice for folks. What do you have the PCB? You got silk screen. You got labels right on it. So that makes it really easy. Let me back up a little bit. I recommend using... We have this ribbon wire that is silicone, right? Silicone covered. So it's super heat resistant. I really recommend using all silicone wires here because there's a lot of close range soldering and like there's times where like you get pretty close to another adjacent wire and like if it's just regular PDC coated wire, you're going to melt it. Yeah, even that heat will melt it. Even just looking at it with your eyes will melt the wire. So I really suggest using this ribbon cable. We have it late in the other thing. But I also wanted to call a shout out to this lovely photo and this wire spool carousel. So we have all the colors of wire here and you can use... This is 30 gauge wire. It's pretty thin. It's good for switches. It's not going to pass a lot of current but we're just doing switches here. So the 30 gauge wire, you can pick all the different colors. And I recommend getting it in a spool. We also sell them as like these little like rolls of them like two meter long. But I say don't do that. Get this spool. Do yourself a favor. Get the spool. Maybe print this little caddy as well. That's fun. I like my wires. Okay, okay. All right. So that's a little bit different. So let me let me go back to the wires because there is the 10 wire. So if you type in 10 wire, this is my go to wire when it comes to any type of thing that needs more than three wires. I go to this. This has 10 wires that are all bundled together in a ribbon and they are silicone cover. So that means they're super flexible and reliable. You can peel them apart like cheese string, which is nice. So that's what I suggest using for the five way. There's six wires in this thing in the navigation switch. That's that's one way to keep your your wiring bundled and neat is to use that 10 wire ribbon cable. Wonderful. All right. So we solder that up to the Pico in the back there. Next up would do the the stem of cables. So we have some stable cables. You'll want to cut off the male header pins on that one and just like kind of tin them up. That way you can sort into the back of the Pico. That's what we got there. Installing the buttons is next up. I have a little bit of an issue here with the learn guide. So I'm going to go into edit mode if I can. Yeah, but this is the photos here. Installing the panel and panel mounting buttons all 16 of them. They all come with a hex nut that's plastic and has like a little bit of a grip on it so that it can be tightly secured to to the top cover. And then this right here gives you a good visual indicator of how the buttons are ordered and by adding these little number labels to them. So because we are working on it from the bottom side, it's reversed. So it goes from the top right to left and then the next row skips down and then right to left and then that's how we're doing it. So when you flip it over, it's actually going from left to right. So yeah, you have to just be very cautious of what button number. So I think this photo will help folks. And the circuit diagram is this way too. So you can use both to make sure that you're soldering the right number to the right pin. Okay. All right. The wiring grounds don't think it's its own page because there's probably the most amount of time I spent building it was wiring up the grounds. Took me a day because of building, but I recommend like creating a bunch of short wires 70 millimeters long, 32 of them, 32 of the but 32 of the grounds. And then the next thing I suggest is like adding a little bit of solder to all the terminals on the buttons. Be careful, you know, you can melt them. I know I did at least one or two buttons and melted. They still work.  So the technique here is really to solder two wires at a time. I suggest using tweezers. You get finer control that way. So yeah, tweezers is a good tip. But you want to do two wires per ground and then just jumping each one. So in this photo series of how the first row looks, second row, the third row, we just keep adding, you keep adding another two wires to each ground pin. And we wire to town near the end. We jump to the LEDs. So the LEDs have their own pins and they're right outside of the grayish box. The little grayish box is the switch and the pins that are outside of that grayish box are the LEDs. And some of the LEDs have markings on them. Some of them don't. Just reference the circuit diagram and you can know, you know, what's the cathode and what's the anode, what's voltage and what's ground. Yeah, the switch kind of doesn't matter, right? But like, I like to keep it consistent. So just keep it the same. And then these photo shows how all the LEDs are kind of snaking back going from left to right, right to left, whichever way it is. So, yeah, there's some photos there, wiring up grounds, planning out the wires for the Fubiko, you know, the LEDs and the buttons. I suggest like kind of fitting the PCB like right next to that cutout window. That way you can gauge like, well, how long does this wire need to be? Now, how long does this wire need to be? So that's how I was able to determine, you know, all the, they're going to have different wire lengths. You could do them all the same and then like cut them down later. But I recommend doing one at a time, measuring it out, cutting it. Does it fit enough and giving it a little bit of extra slack? And one of the techniques I find to kind of organize my wires, because I have a lot of them, is to use heat shrink tubing, little pieces of them just to keep them bundled up together. This is where I'm using the color 30 gauge wire. This, I had it open, but not anymore. The stuff, this is where I'm using the colored wire because it helps me determine which row I'm in or which button number I'm in. So yeah, I'm using a couple of different colors here. So I recommend, you know, going row by row. So one through four is the first one I'll go through. You can see here in this photo how they're all different lengths, but they all kind of become the same length near that window area. Because that's where we're going to solder the wires to, to the, to the Pico right there. The next row, the preceding row. So all the rows here, and this is what it looks like near the end of it. Still, still keeping those heat shrink tubing's to keep some order there to the wires, to the chaos. All right. And then the LEDs, the LEDs, I kind of just said, I'm going to use all red wires that those helpful, I think same, same kind of process. They're all going to go around that area. So solder up. It's a lot easier to start up these wires because you're not soldering two wires at a time. It can be a little tricky when you're soldering two wires to one pin at a time. So this one's nice and straight forward. And then after all of the buttons have wires, and it's time to wire them up into the Pico. I got the Pico secured on this third helping hands. It's really nice way to keep your PCB elevated in a spot and you can kind of work around it. So that's what I used, but you could use a PCB device if it fits, right? Or, or something else to keep it in place. Yeah, it's definitely a good thing to use. So I start off with the first row buttons one through four. Here's the GP GPIO pins and they get signed to five through eight. Again, another warning, don't use pin 15. It needs to be avoided. It's the boot select button. And yeah, just be cautious of the labeling on the Raspberry Pi Pico because they kind of get squished around a little bit. So just be very cautious of that. Buttons nine through 12 and then 13 through 16. So those are all the buttons. Once those buttons are done, we kind of skip over to the OLED. The OLED is it has these extra pins on top of the display, which is nice. I get an extra ground pin here. And because our wires were all short, it it's just the right length to get started into the ground pin on the OLED display. So that's how I have that set up. And then this is where before we start installing it, we want to connect those stomach connectors to the OLED display. So that's what we're doing here right before we panel mount it to the top cover with these screws and hex nuts. So I walk through installing that. You just want to line up.  And you just want to finger tighten those until it's nice and flush with the top surface of the top cover. Cool. Next up, we're going to install the five-way switch. Before we do so, install that rubber knob. If you have it, you don't, it's fine to, but you want to install that before mounting it to these built-in standoffs. So the PCB, whether it's printed or a real PCB, you can use these two screws to secure it to these built-in standoffs. It's right below the OLED display. It's pretty close proximity. So that's how it's going in there. They're really short screws too because it's got kind of a small, short built-in standoffs. All right, then it's time to secure the Pico to the PCB mount. So I got these M2 screws. They're four millimeters long or four millimeters short. And those get installed through those M2 standoffs that we installed previously. That's why we want to set up the PCB mount kind of first and then set it aside and then focus on wiring. So once it's set up, you want to plug in that USB extension cable before securing the PCB mount to the top cover. Otherwise, it's almost, I don't want to say impossible, but it's very, very difficult to do after it's been mounted. So you want to do this before you mount it. And that's why it's important to follow the learning guide chronologically. All right, so four extra screws here will secure the PCB mount to the top cover itself.  So it looks like secured. And I have two photos here, the front and the back. So once that's set up, then we can start to wire up our LEDs. So now that our PCB is secured and our Pico is secured, let's go ahead and secure the LED driver, the AW9523. So that gets fitted over those M2-5 standoffs, four more screws. Those are the last bit of screws. Get those in there. And you know, I just soldered it with it in place secured. I find it fine. But if you find it's too close to the screws, you can, of course, solder your LED driver and then secure it. But yeah, I did it this way. And then I have some words here that tell you what pin goes where. There's a little note here. Be careful not to miss pin zero, right? It's on the other side of the board. I did it at first. I went like, oh, pin one is button one. Now it starts with zero and it's on the other side of the board. So it's a little weird, but hey, that note's there. And you can look at the photo to look at it. Yeah. 5 through 8, 9 through 12, 13 through 16. Here's another one. You want to be cautious. Pins 8 through 11 are on the other side. So it's kind of a little bit out of order, but that's just because I guess it made the routing simpler. And yeah, the last bit you want to do is plug in that stem of cable from the OLED display into the LED driver so that they're daisy chain. And yes, congratulations. You've completed the wiring at the end. This is what it looks like. I really like that everything is wired to the top cover and then you just connect it to the frame in the back cover. Cool. And then the last pages are like the final assembly, which is like, hey, panel mount that USB extension cable to the side. Choose your orientation. How do you like your USB?  Well, it's the micro end. So at least it's not the type 8 end, right? It's the micro end, micro B. So yeah, then just closing it up. And you're done. That's all amazing we made it, folks. The last page is jam out. I think this video is from last week, last week's thing. And it would show up here, but I'm in edit mode because I had some issues. That's a quick run through of the Learn Guide. Super thorough, lots of photos. And I need some water. Lots of great comments on this. There's some questions on having this be a stream deck key. And Liz points people to the Learn Guide that JP just made about the keyboards. You can map those keys to whatever macros you want. Yep, and we also have one as well that uses arcade buttons. You really can use whatever switch. Arcade buttons and tactical buttons. They're all Cherry MX buttons. They're all kind of the same, right? And we have the questions. Can you play two of these at the same time? Yeah, it's good. No, he's asking, can you play Street Fighter 2 with it? I think so. Yeah, just not a reservoir of high. It's just looking at whatever keys you map to the buttons. Yeah, it's making a USB-HID keyboard and assign whatever keys you want. People dig in the 10 wire silicone ribbon cables. Got Freddie saying that he had gotten rid of all of his PVC wires and replaced all of them with silicone. Sweet, best upgrade. And then some discussions on fritzing being eight bucks now. But yeah, that's right. It's a $8 sound, but it's it's totally worth it. Yeah, it's definitely worth it. Especially if you like things like that. Definitely support it. And then if you're pointing out that you can compile it for free. So you can still do that if you want to go that route. Some discussions on which 3D printer to get, if you want to get started with this project. To fit this, it's like a 200 by 220 is the size of the frame that you want to be able to fit onto the bed. And that's some conners saying that this would be really cool as a large master PCB. So you just like plug in. Oh, that is so sweet. Yes, that is definitely what I wanted to do. But wiring is nice too. I think I went through all of them. There might be some that I missed. I have all the links to all of the Fritz St. Objects, all of the code, the STL files for everything. And the rest of the guide should be posted sometime later this evening. And then shout outs from the bold engineer saying, thank you for the PromoPoto case that they were using on a project. Sweet. It speeds everything up. Glad it was helpful. Well, this was so much fun to do. I wish I could do this all the time. There will be more musical projects. I'd love to see folks build it. If you do build it, let me know. You can tag me at Ekin or at Adafruit or at VideoPixel. Anyone of us will see it at BlitzCityDOI. You can tag her as well. Yeah, I'd love to see folks make it theirs. Add to it. Add some pots. And then there was some questions on what color PLA this is. Is the purple heat reactive PLA? It's not blue. It's actually really purple. It's just this web camera. Oh, wow. It's quite fun. Right? Have you looked at it? You're like, that's completely the wrong color. It is. Andy Callaway was calling it blue blooper. It looks more like that. That's probably more true. It is a color changing thing. So like it'll change the heat. It's funny when I'm like playing a lot. You can kind of see the heat resistance on it. Or heat. Let me actually find the Amazon link to that. When you print it, it's like pink. It kind of looks like this. That's what it looked like when it was... Wait, no. That was a different part. Sorry. Don't look at that. That's me breaking that piece, actually. That is the silky purple. Not as strong. Man, we only have 10 minutes left. Oh, let's go ahead and jump into this week's... What are we prototyping? Oh, prototype? Okay. We're just going to do the whole... We're going to extend it. Sorry, folks. So, yeah. That's just 10 minutes because we're going to eat and all that. Yes. So it's still working on the Guardian Egg robot from Age of Calamity. Yeah, Zelda, Age of Calamity. It's almost called The Breath of the Wild. So there is a super simple little shoulder-mountable robot. It's going to be pretty popular. So there is a little servo inside of here. That'll just move the head around.  Look inside. You can see it's the servo that we used on the fairy wings from a couple weeks ago. And everything will be fitted inside here. I'll have a new pixel ring inside to illuminate the eye. And then in case on the bottom here, snap fit lid has the little... It's bitsy inside here. We'll have the rest of the electronics and battery. I think I'll be able to fit it either inside of the lower cavity or inside of the lid part. And then the legs snap fit and they press fit with these little ball joints to have his little feet on there. So you can have this poseable and then I'm going to add the magnet on there so you can attach it to your shoulder or just have it as a desktop mountable little figurine type companion bot. So nice simple little robot here to... I haven't seen many of the Guardian egg robots. There's a couple of the one from Breath of the Wild. I've not seen many of the cute little egg robot one. I'll model this side of Fusion 360 with the sculpting tools inside there. So nice little way to get back into some organic modeling. So we'll have this out in the week after. So a nice little progress there on that. I got a bunch of the parts printing right now getting some tolerances and better snap fits for the itsy bitsy there, the USB on there. So you can plug into that. Of course it'll be all circuit pythons. You can load and modify this to add sound effects and whatever else you want to modify that with.  Yeah, let's do it. Excellent. All right. And then quickly jumping into the weeks community makes. Polly with a good goodie. It is this iris mechanical Venus box. So it's one of those little iris eyelid opening storage containers. So here is the time lapse of the main bases printing. The little lids weren't as interesting for printing using the rainbow silk here just so we can get a nice variation of the lids. And the tolerance on this. I think I had to lower it to like negative point to just to get everything to glide smoothly. So let's take a look and go over to the overhead. Here's what it looks like. Nice, simple, cool. Pretty complex in terms of modeling for this. Yeah.  This one was the only one I was able to get the print without too much trouble. That's why I went with this one. Yeah, it's a really good one by what was it? Tom West. Tom West. So it's a downloadable and figure worse. Yeah, that's what's pretty cool. You can see how the construction for the lids, all of those are modeled. I believe this was inspired by, it's like a remix I believe from one of the originals. Blanking out on his name. There's 15 remixes. So many. Sweet. Excellent. Yeah, very fun one. Good news of mechanical stuff. Yeah, good way to get your tolerances all in check and you're left with this very awesome little three-printable mechanical toy. Storage box. Yeah. Super cool. I like it. Nice. All right. We do have one last community to make. This came from Twitter. This is from John R. Kelly III shared this really cool build of a mute button. He uses a circuit python and a trinket and he shouted me out because he must have looked at the snap fit tutorial for Fusion 360. So that's awesome. And yeah, I like the use of decals. A couple of folks were asking like, how did you get the decals and stuff? So there's a nice thread here that talks about some of the details to make these nice decal graphics here for the buttons. And there's a nice switch there. And it's snap bits, which is a great way to get into a case so you don't have to use screws and sit there unscrewing everything. So that's super cool. And that's this week's community make. Thank you everybody for tagging us and stuff. Thanks for modifying and using all these lovely designs. Cool. All right. Well, we're going to say adios. It's almost that time. Yeah. If anyone has any other questions about anything, let us know. Let's see. Just general comments. Those likes the leg design. Jim Henry saying, if we scale this up 20, 30 X, it should be a really cool observatory dome shutter. Yeah. Yeah. We thought about adding lights to it or a camera, like making it a webcam. Yeah. That kid has a servo and would like open to reveal either a light and then we could fit this on like a panel. I did try that. Yeah. It makes some really cool effects. It does. It just blinds you. It adds some really cool effects. Like the, this could still come apart. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Right there. If you take that apart, you can see where the little, the rods slide up and down against that. It's a crazy design. I've seen other replacements where they have like teeth and stuff on there. Some support, right? No. No support. Just brim on the, the bottom. Right. Yeah. It's pretty thin. Yeah. The brim would definitely help. Oh yeah. How cool. That's going to be it for this show. Don't forget to stay tuned later tonight. Yes. A whole bunch of shows starting off with a show and tell hosted by John Park this week. Yes. We'll be hosting it next week. And then immediately after that eight PM full hour of ask an engineer with Lamar and Phil. We'll be going over all of the news going on in the maker community. We'll have all the cool new projects and products coming out at airfruit. You said it. All right. Tomorrow is JP's, whoops, JP has two shows. Tomorrow, tune in at four PM Eastern time for John Park workshop. You can check out John. Building some awesome stuff. And then on Fridays, deep dive with Scott at two PM Pacific time. Just like five PM Eastern time. And time is changing here in the States again. Unfortunately. Oh yeah. Spring forward. Lamar had a fantastic stream on Sunday all about mechanical keyboards and Cherry MX switches and lots of stuff and some secret stuff as well. So check that one out. It is already archived on the YouTube channel. You can check that out. But you see it live. You can tune in on Sundays at random hacker hours. Around nine or 10 PM Eastern standard time. Mondays are the circuit Python meeting every Monday at two PM. It is recorded live in the discord server. So folks can tune into that or check out in the archive. We also make this release this as a podcast and all the different podcast services. And again Mondays at two PM Eastern time for the liveness. And then Tuesday is John Park's product pick of the week. A nice in depth look at some new products that are added. Every Tuesday at four PM Eastern time. And then here we are on Wednesdays. It's full circle. It's over there. Had to reach. Well thank you guys so much for joining us. It's been super fun. We hope to see you tonight on the show Intel. But until then don't forget to make a great day. Bye folks. See you later tonight.


When I'm going to show you how to do a selective color change in Premiere Pro, all right What do we got here? This is the original footage is underneath here She's got blue hair and then I changed her hair to purple and I did it in about 60 seconds. How did I do it? Let me show you let's start from scratch Okay, first step grab your footage with the footage that you want to the color correct on to it And here we go we drag and drop in a timeline She's got blue hair, but we want to change it to something like purple the next step Here's you want to go up to your effect You want to go to your effects panel right here and then type in Lumetri color like I have done here Video effects color correction Lumetri color drag and drop that onto the footage. Okay, nothing has happened so far now Go to your effect controls panel and then you'll see a Lumetri color has been applied But there's still no effect go to your curves drop that down here as you'll see as I'm going down here And what we're looking for is hue versus hue and what we want to do is we want to isolate out that blue and then change it So when I hover over this line, you'll see the plus sign up here That means I applied a point and you'll see the points there and then I'm going to I basically want to cover all of the blue So I want to be able to change it so I've created two points now I'm going to create a third point right here near where the bluish color is and I'm just going to pull it down and Presto we've got her hair.  That's it guys Thanks for watching. Ten more stuff coming up. Stay tuned