Today we install auto bed leveling on the Ender 3 V2. My name's Jim and this is The Edge of Tech. What's up everybody? Like I said, today we're going to walk through the process of installing this TH3D EasyABL Auto Bed Leveling System on the Ender 3 V2. It's actually not that bad. I'm going to walk you step by step through the process. We're going to go through everything from getting the firmware to loading the firmware to installing the probe and configuring the probe and then in the end we run a test print. Now I really like my Ender 3 V2 and I've done other videos and you can find those right here on the Ender 3 V2 but I haven't done an auto bed leveling video and it's time to do that today. Let's go. I'm proud to say this video is sponsored by THANGS. THANGS is the fastest growing 3D community with over 2 million available models already. THANGS is a super responsive website and you can find a ton of really cool models on THANGS. Actually, if you go up to the search bar and type in Minijim, the Edge of Tech Minijim will pop up. You can download that and print it right at home yourself. Thank you so much THANGS for your sponsorship. Click the link in the description below. It'll take you straight to THANGS and you can check them out from there. So what we want to do first is jump into Firmware.TH3DStudio.com which actually brings us to this page and if we scroll down we see the Unified 2 firmware. A little bit further down we find Creality and then we can look for what printer we're going to use. In our case we're going to do the Ender 3 V2 so we're going to click on this one right here. This will be all the instruction we're going to go through today but we're going to try to make it a little bit faster and easier on the video here. So the first thing we want to do is download the Unified firmware which is right here. So I'm just going to click it and it's going to download in the background. Something we talked about before and I want to bring up again you have to upgrade the screen first. It says that right here as well. So we're going to go through that and then upgrade the board. I'm going to show you how to put your SD card in and get it formatted for the firmware update for the screen and then we're going to use a second SD card for the firmware for the board itself. So it's going to tell you that you always want to update the screen first. Also something you need to have is VS Code installed and there's an installation guide right here and it walks you through everything you need to know. VS Code is the program you're going to open the configuration in and then it'll compile the firmware from there. So VS Code needs to be installed that's right here. It's super simple. Also it's down below in the instructions below. It'll tell you how to do that as well. For this video I'm going to assume that you guys have VS Code or before you go any further jump into that installation guide. The link will be in the description of the video and we'll make it happen. Then what we want to do is open up our area where we just downloaded the firmware. I've already downloaded a couple times doing this video. We're going to open up that firmware and right away you'll see something called LCD Firmware and this is for the Ender 3v2. We're going to click into it. Right away you'll see this LCD update. Right click and extract all. That'll say you know where do you want to extract it. If you leave that default it'll extract it right to this folder. Hit that extract button and you'll get this folder here. Now this specific folder the dwin underscore set folder has to be put on a specially formatted SD card and we're going to do that right now. So you want to take a micro SD card that came with the printer is fine and pop it into the computer. Now what we're going to do is we're going to delete the contents of this SD card. If you have anything on there that you want to save this is your time to save it off now. We have to format this card and it's going to lose everything so if you need to save everything off you want to do that right now. In this case there's just a firmware and I'm not worried about it so we're going to keep rocking. I'm going to go down here to where that volume is. In this case it says it's new volume F. I'm going to right click and format. We format it with an allocation unit size of 4096 bytes. It's very important that you do that. I've tried it other ways with hit or miss results and if I do it 4096 I have the best results. Fat 32 4096 bytes. We'll do a quick format and just hit start. There you go. Once it's done it'll pop itself back up. We'll hit okay and we can close this. So now what we need to do is this is our dwind underscore set folder. We're going to right click the whole folder. We're going to copy it. We're going to go into that volume we just created and we're going to paste it. At this point your screen firmware SD card is good to go. We want to right click on that and eject and now you're good to go with your screen firmware SD card and we're going to jump onto that in just a minute. What we need to do is open our VS program here and open our firmware. So we go to file open a whole folder then you want to go to wherever you're downloaded your firmware and it's in downloads in my case. We're going to double click. We're going to go to firmware and this is everything so I'm going to go back one. So you just want to go to downloads open up your firmware click on and highlight the folder called firmware. You don't have to go any further than that and just hit select folder. What that's going to do is put it here in the left side. If you open up that left side and you come down here to Marlin and open that up you'll find something called configuration.h. Now in configuration.h this is where we actually configure our firmware. So when you first open this up everything will be just like this kind of green color. What we need to do is figure out which printer we're going to use the firmware for and then go ahead and compile the firmware for that board. In my case I have the Ender 3 v2 and I have a 422 board. I'm going to click right here. We're going to go backwards and uncomment those two wax out. So when you uncomment something out you're just deleting the two wax like this. You're just going to delete them out like that. You'll see it works. This will turn into like a pink and a blue color there. So in our case I have the Ender 3 version 422 board. The best way to find out which board you have is to actually just open up the case and look at the board directly. I know mine is a 422 board because I've done that in the past. I don't remember if I showed that in the rest of this video but I do know that you need to figure that out before you go any further. If you have a newer one it's probably a 427 board but you want to make sure open up the control board look inside at your board and just make sure it says 422 or 427 on the board. Once you get this far uncomment that out and in this case we're going to add that easy ABL to ours. So I'm going to scroll down here a little bit further and you'll find right here easy ABL probe mounts. I'm going to go down to the Ender 3 V2 OEM and just uncomment that out as well. Now if you do not have an easy ABL then leave that commented in and you don't have to do anything else all we're going to do is compile. If you do have an easy ABL you want to uncomment this out like this and then all you have to do is come down here to the checkbox hit that button and it'll start compiling your firmware. Depending on the speed of your computer this can take maybe five six ten minutes. It really depends on how fast your computer is. I don't have too bad of a computer this only usually takes a couple minutes for me. So once it's done you'll see right down here at the bottom of the screen that it was a success and we need to go find that firmware to put it on an SD card. To find the firmware we just compiled go up to the left side here you can minimize that Marlin folder there and you want to drop down the PIO folder right here. You want to click into builds and then you'll see this one right here which is STM32 whatever. You want to right click that and reveal in explore.  You want to double click on it and chances are if this is the first time you've done this you'll only have one but we're looking for a dot bin firmware. The one we just did is actually this one right here.  So you want to right click this bin folder here make sure it's the correct one if you have multiple hit copy. You want to plug in a new SD card and paste it right onto the card and that's just like I showed you with the other one with the exception of you don't have to format it in 4,096 bytes it can be anything actually you could do the screen and then pop the SD card back in and put this firmware on it and then to do the board if you really wanted to if you only have one SD card but all you have to do is copy put this actual bin folder right directly on that SD card and then eject your SD card and pull it out and that's it. Now what we do is go from here to the printer and we're going to show you how to get started on installing the screen and the board firmware on the printer. Let's do it. Now it's time to upgrade the firmware on the screen we have to do that first. So with the printer unplugged and off we're going to pop up the screen and we're going to flip it around like this. We're going to pull the little cable out just like that and we need to take these four bolts out right here. So once we got it flipped over we got the cable out we're going to grab our Allen wrench and we're going to take these out. Now I'm using the TH3D tool kit that they sell it is on sale now for like 12.99 at the time of this but you can use the Allen wrench that came with the kit as well. This is just a 2.5 bit I believe. Once you get it off and your bolts are out go ahead and pop off that back you might have to take a small flathead and and pop up one side but it will come out. So what we're going to do next is take a SD card and it goes in this slot right here. I'm going to zoom in and show you that when we put it in there but there's just a metal piece right here that's where your SD card goes and it's going to slide in right here. So once you have the back off grab your SD card and it's going to go in this slot like we talked about you push it until it springs just like that it locks in and now what we need to do is plug it into the printer. Once your SD card is in you want to plug in your cable your ribbon cable right here then you want to spin the screen around so you see it like that and we're going to turn on the printer. So when we turn it on it should go from black to orange and once we should see orange here in a second all right there's blue blue is good there's orange. Okay so after about 30 seconds of orange I want to give it a minute but after the 30 seconds of orange you can turn your printer back off and then go to the next step. So it's been about one minute I'm going to flip the printer off it'll turn off I need to take the SD card out so we'll press the button and eject it and pull that SD card out and then before I put anything back together I'm going to spin the screen around one more time and just fire the printer back on to make sure it all worked so I'll turn the printer back on and on the screen now we have TH3D Marlin that's how you know this works it'll have that TH3D and the Marlin splash screen so now our screen is ready so before we upgrade the printer turn the printer off flip the screen back over take the ribbon cable out and install your back panel back on with those four screws then put your ribbon cable back on slide the screen back on the mount like it came off and then we'll move on to upgrading the printer. Now to update the machine firmware we just take our SD card and we stick it in we got the SD card in I turned the TH3D printer on and now we should see it go from black to the splash screen here and then once it's complete as you see there we go it'll go to the main screen once it all loads up so you want to scroll over to control scroll down to info then look at the firmware line here that says TH3D Unified Firmware 2.27 now in this case at the time of the filming this is the newest one 2.27 in your case it could be much newer I know Tim's working on a new release now so that'll change shortly but right now it's 2.27 we are good to go so what we need to do now after we load a new firmware is restore the eProm and we can do that from the control panel I believe by going to control scroll down to restore defaults and hit that button now that should have reset your eProm just like that you hear the button and we should be good to go now if not I'm going to put in the description below the Marlin commands if you want to hook it up to a computer and use Octoprint or anything like that to connect I'll give you the Marlin commands to reset your eProm from there as well but in this case I went to restore defaults hit that button and we should be golden and that's it that's all we have to do to do the firmware on the Ender 3v2 including the screen all right to get started installing the EasyABL on the Ender 3v2 what we need to do is start with these parts now this here is the EasyABL it comes with zip ties a little screwdriver I actually printed the mount here but you can order one from them that looks like this one right here but I actually wanted to go blue today so I printed this one in an HP PLA also it comes with a box and some wire and for this build I'm actually going to go the super easy way and I actually bought the power plug for it now you can use the included wire and wire this right to your power supply and that's a pretty easy thing to do but in this case I'm actually going to show you the easiest thing to do and that's just use this power adapter once we get it plugged in it makes it very simple the only downside to it is that you need this extra power plugged in at all times with your printer other than that it makes this install very very easy you don't even have to open the control board to do it let's get this going we're going to start by installing our mount so to get this started what we want to do is get this bolt out right here now this is the bolt that holds the wheel on so what we need to do is grab and yes I started loosening it already but we need to grab the back of this with a pliers then we need to take that out so I'm going to use this here squeeze the back of it and I already broke it loose so I'm going to use the long side of my allen wrench and we're going to take this screw out now it's very important that you be careful with this and watch now it's very important that you be careful with this geez okay so once you have the back grabbed with your pliers unscrew the front and be very careful because once it gets to the end your bolt is going to fall out like that so I take the bolt or take my nut and I'm going to put it down by the table and then I'm going to grab my bolt and pull it out just like this now there is a spacer back here that's hard to see there is a spacer back here that you need to remember to put back in as well to put it all back together grab your bracket and push your bolt through there we're going to push it through the hole just a little bit we're going to take the spacer that came out of the back and push that in then the wheel push the wheel in then your lock nut and we're going to start the lock nut here once we get that started I'm going to grab it with the pliers like we did before and I'm going to use the long side of my allen wrench to get it tightened here you might need to keep that down and I'm just going to tighten this in but you don't want to make you want to make sure it's not too tight so this flops around but you also don't want your wheel too tight as well so once you get it on there just check your wheel make sure you're not overly tight that's perfect it works now if you push this up it probably will move up that means I probably could go a little bit tighter so I'm going to I'm going to grab the long side I'm using the long side because I don't want to over tighten so I'm going to clamp that down there I'm going to hold this in place there we go so now let's check not too tight and this is much better it's not moving that's what we want to see now it's time to put our easy abl on what we need to do is take off this bottom nut here like that and then we need to actually screw this way up because it needs to go a good distance to the bottom here it should only it should be about two millimeters above your nozzle if I remember right what we want to do is screw it way up so we can stick it through like this and it's probably even going to come farther than that so I'm going to leave it about right there I like to go a little bit further up here and then adjust it down if I have to we are pretty close right there we'll give it a couple more threads just because so I'm going to take this nut and thread it on just enough for the bottom of the easy abl to be out but I don't want to go too far on I'm going to leave it just like that now what we need to do is just run the cabling now what we have is this loop here of cable I'm untwisting the cable ties and taking them off quick and now it's time to start installing our cable here so the first thing we want to do is create a loop and we want to create this loop here so this never gets snagged and it says that right in the manual but you want to create this loop here so it never strains this area up here once you get your loop created then use your first zip tie and I like to go around the cabling not around the boat and tube there and I'm just going to zip tie it to the cabling now you could splice into the cable management here if you really want to I'm not going to do that but you can if you want to so once we have our nice little loop here and we got our first cable tie on here then we just want to run this back and down the side of the cable management here so it's nicely cable tied and it doesn't get in the way so I'm going to put probably two or three more zip ties and just run it along this cable management here along the back and I'll be right back now we have our zip ties along here I did not zip tie around the boat and tube that was the one that was already there but you can see the ones I did are sticking out I'm going to grab my flush cutters and just cut these off so they're nice and flush and look nice and they don't cut anybody they don't get hung up on anything once all those are cut off and look good we're going to move on to the control box hey everybody if you're getting value out of the video today please do me a favor hit that like button right now I really appreciate it and it really helps the video get pushed further throughout the community on YouTube thanks again and now back to it so I'm on the side of the printer now this is our ZN stop right here I'm just going to unplug that right here and I'm going to grab our allen wrench and we are going to take the ZN stop off we will no longer need the ZN stop now I'm going to using the allen wrench that came with the kit once it's loose I'm just going to spin it off with both of those screws now there is t-nuts and we're going to use the t-nuts going forward so don't forget to get the t-nut out there we go now once you have your ZN stop off right here you want to take the bolts out and the t-nuts and set your ZN stop aside take the control box next and open it up and this is our ZN stop wire and that's going to plug directly into the control box down there super easy so you're going to plug that in carefully and push it in so it's nice and tight in there then you're going to route that out the side and this is going to tell you about where you can mount this now you can mount it forward if you want I'm going to mount mine about right there I think that'll be perfect and nicely mounted on the side of the machine so to mount it you can see there's three holes right here pick the hole that suits you I'm going to do it in the top one so it's nice and flush like this grab the mounting hardware that came from your ZN stop and you might have to thread it in but that's okay so thread it into the case there do that for the front and the back and then we're going to use the t-nuts that it came with to lock it into the side rail right here so let me get this threaded let me get the t-nuts on and I'll be right back so I got them threaded I got the t-nuts on like this I'm going to turn them both kind of sideways there and I'm going to pop them into the extrusion where I want them now you can mount this anywhere you want remember this cable has to be able to come out like this because there's a cover that goes on here so you make sure the cable comes out of the little hole there but I'm going to go about right there I'm going to use my allen wrench and just spin it in so those t-nuts lock in and then I'm going to do that for both sides lock these things in with the t-nuts once it's locked in I'll go on to the next step now we have it mounted here our ZN stop is right here and it's going to go there's a little groove that that's going to sit in really nicely now the next thing I want to do is plug in my easy ABL cord that comes with it and that really just plugs in just like that now this is good to go here I'm not going to put the cover on and I'm going to show you why in a little bit here but don't put the cover on yet the only thing we have to do now is power this thing up now you can use like I mentioned earlier this wire right here you can run it from here down into this hole and straight to your power supply and it'll run it perfectly in this case I wanted to show an even easier way so I'm going to use this power supply here all we're going to do when we're ready is plug it into the top we're going to plug this into the wall and that's it at this point we can move on to adjusting the easy ABL so as you notice I actually grabbed the wrong mount I printed this blue one I wanted to use and I accidentally put the black one on in the heat of the moment filming this video so I'm probably going to swap that out but we don't have to do that right now now what we want to do is lower our gantry uh so we're going to do that now we're just going to do this and lower the gantry down I'm going to push my bed back and kind of move this over here to the center like that and I'm going to come pretty close now I'm going to take a wrench that came with a creality kit and I'm going to set it right down like this and then I'm going to lower the gantry down just so the nozzle just touches the bed so it's going to be hard to see the nozzle underneath there but the wrench is going to be underneath the easy abl just like that and I'm just going to slowly bring this down just until the nozzle touches the bed right there so that's where we want our easy abl to sit now this needs to sit flush on here so I actually need to come down a little bit on our mount so I'm just going to loosen that up and let it sit just like that and I'm going to make it sure it's sitting kind of flat so once it is flat on the wrench like this that should be about right now let's bring this up and we're going to tighten this bottom one in so it doesn't move anymore we really got to bring that up quite far so when I'm in here like that I'm going to bring this ring up all the way to about the bottom until I can hold it with two hands here so then what you want to do is make sure you're sitting flush and you want to make sure it's straight and flush down here you can't be crooked or anything like that it needs to be perfectly straight up and down then you want to bring your bottom nut up to about right there about three threads over then screw your top nut down so it's about right there so the top nut is up against our mount here then I'm going to hold and I'm going to screw this bottom one in and tighten them kind of hard to see so if you did this right there'll be it'll be sitting flush on this wrench there'll be no wiggle room here I mean I can lift it up physically if I really pull on it but no one's going to be pulling on that while the machine's working and that'll be about perfect right there now I'm going to spin mine just a little to keep that loop intact up the top there just like that so we have our sensor just touching and we're going to go on to the next step now what we're going to do is take our power adapter plug it into the easy abl and then I'm going to plug it into my power just like that now the little light came on here and I know that there's power to the easy abl so I'm going to fire the machine on here I'm going to raise this up a little bit I'm going to turn the machine on now the machine's on and I'm going to put my wrench underneath the nozzle like that I'm going to go to prepare disable stepper and we're going to slowly bring the nozzle down until it hits that wrench very very very slightly so just touches the wrench now we need to adjust our easy abl there's a red light on right now and there's a little screw hole right in the side here if I put my little screwdriver that came with it in there and I'm going to unscrew it until it turns green so the red light went off in this case there's no green light so the red light went off and I'm going to slightly screw it now screw it now just a little bit until the light comes on then I'm going to back it off just a hair and just just enough where that light comes on and this is very very small turns I mean like just barely turning it all right so I'm confident that I've now set the easy abl you see the red light is on now here and that's going to trigger at about four millimeters above the bed oh I was wrong there's actually a green light on this side I apologize I didn't see that but I thought there was a green light that then I was standing on this side and didn't see it so there's actually a green light right here which is kind of hard to see from this camera angle and a red light here so now if I pull our wrench out and I bring this down you'll see it trigger there and stop triggering here so we should be calibrated right about there the next thing we need to do is bring this up and make sure it's going to home correctly so I'm going to bring this up quite a bit here and we'll be right back now we got everything up off the bed just in case we don't want to crash anywhere we need to auto home and make sure that this triggers the correct direction so I'm going to go to prepare auto home and it's going to raise a little it's going to go to the side it's going to stop and then what I'm going to do is just put my finger here and it's not stopping so that is not a good sign I'm going to shut the printer off and I'm going to show you how we fix that okay so it turns out I just had a loose wire in this case if I go to prepare auto home you'll see everything move it'll come towards us then it'll go away and if you stick your finger under it'll stop just like that that's what you want to see now if it is backwards if it is doing this so if you go to auto home it auto homes like this and it homes and it doesn't stop like that there's a little black switch that you have to flip and let me show you that now so if it's not triggering or if it's going up it's triggering backwards flip that little black switch in my case I just had my Z wasn't pushed in all the way but if it's not triggering flip that switch and you should be good now we're going to auto home again and make sure and then we're on to the next step so here we go we'll go to prepare auto home it'll do its thing we just want to make sure we're triggering on that Z you don't want it to crash so that's perfect now I'm going to let it go all the way down and just make sure everything's good we know it's not going to crash into the bed which is great and then right after this we're going to set our Z offset and then we're done perfect now that we know we're good there I'm going to take my case and put the cover on it so make sure your wire is down in that little opening lock it closed and you're good to go then we have these cables to worry about what you want to do is raise your gantry all the way up when we're ready make sure that this can reach everything and then I'm just going to take some cable ties and tie that up but I want to make sure when we're done I can raise this all the way up and it's going to reach we don't want this being too tight and being pulled so we'll do that at the end not a big deal I'm just going to tell you to do it now like I said grab a couple zip ties raise your gantry all the way up and just make sure you zip tie this when the gantry is all the way up so this is as far as it needs to stretch so the next thing we need to do is set the Z offset and to do that I'm going to try to show you the screen and then you can kind of see the printer here in the side view but what we want to do is go to prepare here which is the second box scroll down to auto home and let the printer auto home itself real quick so this only takes a couple seconds here it's pretty fast and it is already auto home right there then if we go back here and then go to prepare move and right here under move z it's kind of hard to see but that says 5.0 what we need to do is click on that and bring it back down to zero so move Z should be zero where it's highlighted right here then hit the button and the printer will drop down to that point now we're going to go back then we're going to go set to the Z offset right here so I'm going to throw a piece of paper under here so you guys can see that and what we're going to do is just dial this down till the paper starts grabbing on the hot end here and dialing it down will be turning it counterclockwise like this and it should be somewhere right around two millimeters so two millimeters for me is just a little bit high 2.05 2.07 is grabbing pretty nicely right there 2.10 is too much and so you can really see just how much of a fine tune you can do on this so I'm going to do 2.06 which is right there I think that's a really nice grab actually I think I'm going to set on 2.08 right there so then you're going to hit the button once you hit the button it'll lock in your Z offset of negative 2.08 in my case it's nice grab on that paper you want to go to back control and then scroll down to store settings it should make a beep sound just like that then let's go back let's go prepare auto home again let the printer home itself and it's home itself then we're going to go up here to move one more time go to move Z and it set it five again 5.0 but now if we take our paper and we put it underneath here and we click on move and we bring that back down to zero we should oh we got to hit the button now you should be right where you were when we left off at that negative 2.08 so that'll tell us when the move Z is at zero and this is grabbing your paper now your Z offset is now set you're ready to print all right so the last thing I want to do is show you how it should react when you have the easy ABL on it does the bed leveling and then once it's going I want to show you that live Z adjust so I actually sliced a test for this bed and it came from the TH3D firmware files I'm just going to print it and we're going to let it go here if everything is right it should do a home and then it should probe the bed and once it starts printing we'll be back okay so it's going to come down now it's going to do a purge line and then it's going to start the outside so it's purging now you can see a little bit of filament was on there like that and once it starts on the menu here you have a tune button so if you press tune you scroll down to Z offset or baby step it should say 2.08 and that's the baby step or the Z offset we gave it already now if you look at your print and just see how it's going you can move it up or down and this looks like it's pretty good so far but you can move it up or down by clicking that and turning clockwise here we'll move it up turning counterclockwise we'll move it down and you can maybe dial in your Z offset a little better while it's printing now don't forget if you do make a change you have to click the button to actually make that change so if you turn it up or turn it down you have to click the button before the printer will actually move in a second here we're going to do one more loop and then we're going to do a squares and we're going to see how that goes i'm probably going to put this in time lapse mode again so we can speed it up a little bit but in a second you're going to see the squares being printed and then we'll check the squares out in the end but this is a very important step just to dial in your Z offset make sure your baby stepping is good and don't forget you can do this on any print that you start so in my case this was already a level bed i had this leveled before but you always want to make sure your bed is level no matter what if you're using abl or not if you want to you could do solid mounts is which and that's what i'm going to be swapping this to so then you put them in you screw your wheels up and you don't have to worry about leveling your bed again but in this case i have wheels i made sure we're leveled before we started something else to throw in there so right now it's going to do the th3d logo in the center it's going to go around and do some outsides and then fill them in we're going to jump in the time lapse and we'll be back when it's done all right as you can see it printed the logo in the center and four test squares here along with the two outlines of the skirt and i think it went well i think i probably need to adjust it a little bit in the center here it's a little bit tight it's dragging right here but and maybe a hair right here which tells me maybe my bed's not level to start with but those solid mounts will definitely help with this again you need to level your bed normally before you start any of this and make sure you have good tension on your spring so it won't change then the probe will be much better and more accurate otherwise grab some solid mounts throw them under there and then you won't have to level anymore but in this case this is definitely not bad it's all here it looks pretty nice mostly through here maybe a little dragging through the center which tells me this is probably raised a little bit in the center here uh other than that test print looks great and that's it we are completely done installing the easy a bl on the ender 3 v2 and testing it with a test pattern well that's it we've successfully installed the th3d easy a bl and new firmware on this ender 3 v2 it actually wasn't too bad in reality it probably only takes maybe 20 minutes to 30 minutes it's not bad at all especially if you use the fast way we use today what i mean by that is there's two ways to wire your easy a bl there's a direct wire kit which they give you the wires for and you can wire it straight to your power supply that is normally how i do it but for this video i actually use the power adapter using this power adapter you don't have to open the control panel you don't have to open any wires you don't have to cut any wires all you do is plug your zn stop into it you plug your sensor into it and you plug this into it and into an outlet and that's it there's no opening anything else and this is the simplest method of installing the easy a bl now the only downfall i found with this is that you have two plugs now to power up you need this one plugged in to the control box and then you need your power plugged into the wall as well for the printer now when you unplug or you turn off your printer you're probably going to want to unplug this as well maybe just throw it on a power strip flip the toggle on your power strip and call it a day the next thing i want to bring up is the starting g code the starting g code will need to be changed when you put any auto bed leveling on a printer in the description below you'll find a link and you can go there and you can find the starting and ending g code for the ender three v2 that i use with my a bl also i reached out to tim and he said i could use this test pattern so i sliced it for you guys in prusa slicer and specifically for the ender three v2 if you're going to use it for that like this video is intended check out the same link in the description and you can find an already sliced g code file all you have to do is throw it on your sd card pop it in your printer and hit print and it'll give you this print that we did on the video today at this point let me know in the description below do you guys use a bl do you want to use a bl have you ever installed a bl let me know below do you use an easy a bl or bl touch that'd be interesting too i'll be watching the comments i'm always curious what you guys are using and if you've installed it as well overall i really like the easy a bl i have it on a few machines you've probably seen a couple videos in the past where we've installed it as well i personally like it better than the bl touch that's my personal preference but i really think it performs well it installs very easy like you saw today and i just think it's a very very good product and it supports a small business if you're looking for an easy a bl there'll be a link in the description below where you can go and find the kit you can find the solid bed mounts if you want to throw those on there and also there'll be a discount code t e o t five that runs until august of 2021 that you can throw in in your cart and get five percent discount and it helps the channel out too because that's an affiliate code so check that all out it's in the description below i really hope you guys learned something today and as always keep printing


Hey everybody it's Brian and welcome to the 112th tutorial with Qt and C++ and GUI programming. Be sure to visit my website www.voidromes.com for the source code to this and all the other tutorials. I shouldn't say all. I'm missing some and you know I had a server crash if you've been following along you know the story. So if you're following along in this or any of the tutorials and you notice the source is missing off my site please zip it up and send it to me and I'll post it for everybody else to use. Alright man that's a mouthful. I'm going to quit saying all that. If you've been following along you know this is the third tutorial in a four part series. Yeah we've built Zlib. We've built QAzip. If you haven't done either of those steps watch the other videos. You have an original folder which has files which we're going to be working with in this tutorial and a Libs folder and I want to populate that. Alright we populated it in previous tutorials but I just want to make sure everybody's on the same page here. So you're going to need your, if you're on not windows, libz.a, libz.so and libz.so.one. Throw those in the Libs folder. If you're on Windows your life is a little bit easier because you could just go in and grab the actual DLL and the .lib and .def and throw those in your Libs folder here. Now why is there a difference between DLL and SO? Everybody's probably going to ask me, well, ask Bill Gates. I don't know. To be brutally honest it's just a naming convention. They are just libraries. They do almost exactly the same thing just as the different code base. Alright so now that you've got your library set up we've compiled QAzip. We've compiled Zlib. Let's actually go in here and look at this stuff. Let's give QAzip another build just to make sure it builds. Now we want to grab out of our build directory all of the SOs or if you're on Windows you're going to see a DLL and a .a and maybe like a .def, you're going to grab that also. Throw those also in the Libs folder because what we're going to be doing in this tutorial is using that library, I should say these libraries, the libz and the QAzip. If you're on Windows those are going to say .dll's. We're going to be using those in this tutorial to actually compress and decompress and have some fun with zip files. Alright so let's go file, new file of project, alright I want to put this in zipvids and we're just going to call this, let's call it zip1, let's call it myzip1 and just put your stuff wherever you usually put it. I always can't go when I say that, I'm sorry, very immature but alright now right out of the box we just have a very basic command line app, it compiles, it runs, it doesn't do anything special. So what we need to do here is we need to actually link to that QAzip in Libz. One thing you should know right off the bat here is you're going to need those libraries whether they're SOs or DLLs you're going to need those in the same directory, whoops, in the same directory as your program or you're going to want to put them in somewhere where the operating system can find them in the path variable typically that would be like USR slash lib or it would be in C Windows system 32 or C Windows slash system somewhere in the path variable where it will find up. The easiest way is just put it in the same directory as your program. Now just because you put them in there doesn't mean it can actually use them yet. That's what we're doing in this tutorial. So crack open the project file, we're going to do a little bit of coding here. We're going to set some variables and we're going to say QUazipCoder, help if I can spell code and you're going to want the actual path to that and we're going to say ZlibCoder, grab this QAZip, QAZip, you're going to want to grab the path to this guy and then for good measure we're also grabbing the path to Zlib. So we've got our two variables in there and to be brutally honest you don't really need this you could just do your Libs folder, we're going to say Unix and then we're going to have a Win32, get rid of that output window there so we can see what we're doing here. Let's say Libs plus equal and we're just going to grab this ZlibCoder, sometimes I need like background music or something like maybe circus music, anyways you get what I'm saying here. Alright now one thing you should notice that this actually right here doesn't need to be that. It could and probably should be our Libs folder here because what we're doing really is we're linking to this thing so we can copy that and you can just change it if you want to. It really depends on your style, I like linking to the individual directories, some people like linking all into one folder, it doesn't really matter a whole lot. Alright now we need to actually include some source files here. Include path plus equal and we're going to grab this guy and then we're going to say headers plus equal, sorry my cat just made some weird grunty noise I couldn't figure out what the heck he was doing. Start at H. Now you're not going to really in a production environment want to include wild car because what we're saying here is headers are plus equal to this folder QAZip because we're using that variable and then we're doing slash start at H so all the headers are going to get included and we can prove that if we just hit save and it will evaluate it and then suddenly ta-da all the headers for the QAZip are included now you're not going to want to do that in a production environment because if some coworker drops a header file in there that you don't want your project it's going to automatically get included and you could spend days trying to figure out what just happened it's also a very big security threat because well you know same thing I could just inject code into your program just by adding a file but because I don't want to sit here for an hour adding files we're just going to do this give it a good save okay so if you follow along so far we've made two variables the QAZip coder and Zlib coder and the paths are going to change depending on your system we have a declaration here declaration G's a branch here where we're saying if we're on Unix grab this library if we're on Windows grab that library all right so what we're going to want to do at this point is actually just give it a good build make sure everything builds fine if it doesn't build at this point you're going to have to figure out why and this is always the nerve racking part of working with code I just breathe the use either huge sigh of relief right there if you get like a undefined reference to check your library paths many many times you won't have the library in the right path especially windows is very fickle about that that's why I said just make sure it's in the same directory as your program here you see how we've got all this stuff out here if your libraries are in the same directory it should be able to link to them just fine all right now we are going to actually write some code no if we run this nothing happens you know we've just got a standard little little window where nothing really happens so we're going to start writing some code we want to do a few things here first we are going to set up some strings we'll say q string wow I cannot type and through the magic of copy and paste I'm going to save a little bit of time here and we're going to call this somebody once asked me Brian is English your second language no I'm just a horrible speller I can write code all day long but don't ask me to write a thesis oh my gosh all right so what we need to do here is we're going to set up some variables of what we're going to be working with so let's actually go back here I'm going to just save some time by copying and pasting oh what should we name this test dot zip new dur and then single file we're just going to say original dur plus slash drunk dot jpg it's actually kind of a funny picture I found you'll see it later made me chuckle all right so we've got that zip file original dur new dur and single file and we are going to write some code to compress a directory and I'm going to be writing a sizable amount of code here so I may actually split this into multiple videos I'm not sure yet list the contents of a zip file and decompress an archive to a directory and decompress a single file whoops all right now before we can do any of that we're going to have to add some includes here all right so let's just say if you're wondering what jl compresses it's part of the qa zip it is this guy right here and what he's done is this jl compress is actually much easier to work with than working with the individual files I mean qa zip has a a ton of functionality built right into it but it's can be kind of a bear to work with if you don't really know what you're doing so we're just going to stick with something easy for this tutorial and we've got the headers right here so we don't even really need qa zip open anymore we can actually close that all right so first things first we're going to set up our functions here I love copy and paste so what we're doing here is we're setting up a compressed directory where we're going to say a zip file and a directory decompress where we're going to say zip file and directory and we're going to compress files which is a zip file in a q string list called files sorry I was trying to juggle between you guys and my notes here it wasn't going too well then we're going to decompress files and with this we're also going to need an extra one q string the directory that we're going to do and then we need to list the contents here all right I feel like I'm going to sneeze at any minute don't you hate that feeling like when your nose starts tickling and you're like oh come on let's actually include q file here all right so first things first we're going to compress a directory so we're going to take an entire directory and compress it down into one zip archive here so we're going to say if jail compress compressor and you can see how it's very easy to work with they just want a compressed file and then a directory so we're going to say zip file directory and we're just adding a little bit of logic here I can hear my cat whining always breaks my heart it sounds like a child crying could not create all right so what we're really doing here is we're just saying compress the directory we're saying zip file and directory we're calling jail compress handing at the name of the file we want to create the directory we want to compress so let's actually do that right now go down here zip file and we want to compress original dir so what we're doing here is let me bring up my file structure here we're going to create a file called test zip and we're going to take this folder original and compress it down so let's give this a good run see what happens and it says created test as it so let's actually go out there there it is right there test does it and you see it's got our files in there and they're compressed so what we're going to do now is list the contents of that sorry kitty come on go go bye bye q file file and we're going to say zip file oops and we would want to check that the existence of it go away cat sorry guys cat was messing with me so if the file doesn't exist we just want to exit out of there otherwise what we want to do is we want to get file list and then just list it out we're just going to use the for each macro there so let's actually take this and let's say zip file so we're going to compress the directory and then list the contents let's run this guy created and there's the contents our three files so as you can see this is actually pretty easy to work with here i'm going to comment these out because we don't want to mess up our other ones but we're going to decompress the archive to a directory and then decompress a single file here whoop did we miss one yeah we did miss one we missed uh compressing a single file all right so let's do this back up and do a compress a single file here so we're going to say jail you guys did compressed files and we're just going to give it the file name for the file and then we need to give it a list of files now we're just handing it a q string list so we can quite literally just add one item to that q string list if we want and i'm going to through the magic of copy and paste here so let's actually add it right here sorry about that i'm going to make a new q string list and we're going to insert into there the single file variable there we go so if we run this now you see how it created the zip file we can go out there and there's only one file in there now instead of all of them because we only added the one now right now we're going to work on decompressing i'm trying to kind of fly through this because the uh the recorder i use gets a little finicky if these videos start going past 20 30 minutes so we're going to decompress the entire directory here we're going to say q string list list equal you guessed it jl compress and we're going to extract files i'm sorry extract dir because we're doing entire directory here we're going to give it the name of the zip file and then the name of the directory we want to extract to and then we're just going to do a for each q string item in list we're just going to list out that we extracted them right so we'll decompress this guy what are these warnings here oh unused parameter don't care about that give it the name of the zip file and then give it the name of the new directory because we're going to make an entirely new directory here so what we're going to do now is extract this guy to a folder called new dir or i'm sorry yeah new dir right here so i'm going to take that whole content and extract it and you can see we extracted drunk dodgy peg let's go see if that's actually true here there should be there it is new dir and you can see oh alcohol the granddaddy of regret look at her face she's just like oh dude and he's just laughing that's what friends are for a uh this gentleman boy what a lovely night he's going to have an even better morning to a all right now we're just going to finish this whole thing up we're going to decompress a single file here come on kitty go bye bye kitty sorry guys this cat's just like fall over me right now we're going to extract files and notice this takes the compressed file the q string list and then the directory so as you can see i mean once you've gotten to this point you can very easily just work with this library and it's just dirt simple i mean it's ridiculously simple to work with so we're going to decompress files and let's actually do the beauty of copy and paste here give it a directory and we want to extract drunk dot jpeg let's actually compress the entire directory again so what we're going to do for this last example here is we're going to compress the entire directory so we have more than one file list the contents and then extract a single file so let's actually get rid of new dirt get rid of test and then run this and if all goes well zip does not have a current file oh we made a boo boo so you can see we created we got three files but does not have current file uh i'll bet you anything it's because we have yep capital D lowercase d if we change that lesson learned extracted so we have created we've listed we've extracted if we go out sure enough that files there um case some of you are wondering kind of in this on a positive note what these other files are meanwhile in oregon guy chasing a fish across the road and very clever top secret bottom secret all right well that's all um i hope you found this series educational entertaining um there is one more video i'm going to do where instead of using the actual qua zip library we're going to actually use his code embedded into our program so we don't have to juggle around two libraries just one that's all thanks for watching i hope you found this educational entertaining


This 10th year of Daily Tech News show is made possible by you the listener, thanks to all of you including James C. Smith, Miranda Janell, and Justin Zellers. Coming up on DTNS, Anthropic wants to make its AI abide by constitutions, and Google I.O. is here. Turns out Google is an AI company. They spent two hours telling us, but they also make foldable phones now too. This is the Daily Tech News for Wednesday, May 10th, 2023 in Los Angeles. I'm Tom Merritt. And from Studio Rebit, I'm Sarah Lane. From Studio Colorado, I'm Shannon Morse. And that's the producer Amos back there behind the scenes. Let's start today. Pay no attention to the man behind the scenes. He might pipe up later. You don't know. Let's start with the quickins. Roku announced the $99 Roku Home Monitoring System SE, which includes a keypad, a hub with a siren, a motion sensor, and two window or door sensors. Users can monitor the systems themselves through the Roku app or set-top box, or sign in, sign up, rather, for paid monitoring through the company Noonlight. Roku developed the system in partnership with Wise. The company also now lets you automatically download recordings from Roku cameras to their apps as part of its smart home subscription. $99, that's enough for one piece. Kind of a lot, yeah. Well, no, it's nothing compared to, it's like one piece. I mean, a lot for not that much money. Yeah, yeah, I know, exactly. Uber began rolling out the ability to book flights in its app, who really wants to be the travel app. So if you're in the UK, some UK users will be able to do this in partnership with the travel agency Hopper. Users will be able to select and pay for seats directly in the app, with Uber taking a small commission on the sales. A broader UK rollout is expected in the coming weeks. According to its Q1 earnings, Roblox grew its active daily users 22% on the year to $66 million, while engagement hours were up 23% on the year, with the largest growth in international users and those in the 17-24 age segment. However, the company missed analyst earnings estimates, with its net loss up 67% on the year. Ooh, but Roblox is the future of the metaverse still, in my opinion. Earlier this month, the Indian tech site Punica Web reported WhatsApp users on Android were triggering microphone permissions on devices, even when the app wasn't being used, and this was seen across different phones, Pixel, Samsung, etc. Twitter engineer Fohed Dabiri subsequently showed similar findings from the Android privacy dashboard. WhatsApp's Twitter account said it contacted Dabiri and said it believes the issue is with Android's privacy dashboard and has asked Google to investigate. MediaTek announced a new high-end mobile system on a chip, the Dimensity 9200+, offering the same cores as the Dimensity 9200, but with boosted clocks up 5-11% on its various CPU cores, with a claimed 17% boost in GPU performance. It also uses TSMC's latest 4nm process, which could allow for longer battery life. Phones using the new SoC will arrive later this month. All right, so we have lots of IO stuff to talk about, but want to note this one first. What do we got? Yeah, okay. So Tuesday, AI company Anthropic, which makes the chatbot, Claude, announced its constitutional AI training approach. The idea behind that is to develop a method for making a chatbot respond acceptably, while not having to resort to labor-intensive human training for the unsatisfying blocking of certain answers that famously began on chatGPT with its as an AI language model, dot, dot, dot, which always means, well, you're not really getting an answer, right, Shannon? That's right. So Anthropic has developed a constitution. It's a set of principles the model must adhere to as it generates responses. Keep in mind that Anthropic says its aim is to demonstrate the method, not to try to dictate what should be in the constitution. So if you don't like Anthropic's examples, theoretically different companies or even countries could create their own. So why do they do this at all? Well, blocking responses seems obviously unsatisfying. It just feels like the bot is not working. It's got a bug. And the other common method of keeping a chatbot on course is called reinforcement learning from human feedback or RLHF. That's where people's rate responses to help provide feedback to the model. That's one of the methods open AI uses and it requires a lot of time and a lot of labor. Anthropic's constitutional AI trains the model on a list of initial principles from the beginning to help reduce the need for the other methods. Anthropic's demonstration principles were drawn from multiple documents, including the UN Declaration of Human Rights, portions of Apple's terms of service, trust and safety best practices from other companies like DeepMind and Anthropic's own research lab principles. Yeah, so if you're like, wait a minute, the UN Declaration of Human Rights and Apple's TOS, that seems odd. The UN Declaration, they're pulling stuff like support, life, liberty and personal security, encourage freedom and equality, discourage, torture, cruelty, racism, sexism, etc. The Apple TOS adds issues that are more recent, like choosing the least personal, private or confidential responses. In fact, one drawn from Apple's TOS says to quote, avoid implying that AI systems have or care about personal identity and its persistence. There are other pieces in their example constitution from other sources like don't help a user commit a crime, to choose the least harmful response to non-Western audiences, so they're trying to counteract some bias. The model, however, evaluates every step of its responses by the principles from the constitution, and then that feedback is used to select the more harmless output. This is not that different from how large language models set a temperature to choose responses that make it sound more natural. Anthropic plans to gather feedback about how this works at scale, use that to improve its constitution, and in fact it admitted that its model became a little judgmental and annoying in early tests, became one of those nags that are always after you, so they added parameters to encourage the model to be proportionate when applying its principles. Anthropic says, and this is the quote that I think is important to remember, from our perspective, our long-term goal isn't trying to get our system to represent a specific ideology, but rather to be able to follow a given set of principles. We expect that over time there will be larger social processes developed for the creation of AI constitutions. So it's going to be hard to see if they can escape from people criticizing their constitution because they don't agree with the way it was laid out, and keep people to focus on the fact that they just had to test something and they want to make this work. They want to make this example work. This seems like a really smart approach. Now I would love to see these examples of it being judgmental and annoying because I feel like those would be kind of funny to look at. But this seems like a very cautionary and smart approach to how those kind of conversations and those kind of outputs should work. It seems like this would be a lot more human-oriented and it might even be easier to put the correct inputs into this as opposed to BARD or chat GPT. I don't know if like is the right word. I'm fascinated by the word that kept getting pushed here as constitutional. That's the name. Yeah, so anthropic saying, here's how we're building this. Here's how you as, for example, a company that has a certain ethos or a country that has a certain set of laws could use what we've built to make it your own. And that kind of sounds like a lot of different sorts of quote unquote constitutions to me. So for better or for worse, I think it's smart that the idea is here is why this model can you can kind of make it your own based on where you are and what you're using it for. But we should all know how you're using it and why. It reminds me of what they're doing with Mastodon and Blue Sky, where they're trying to make the protocol available for people to have different filters and moderate in different ways. This is anthropic saying, what if we did that for the AI? A lot of people are concerned about what it says. What if you can choose your filter? You can modify a constitution. So I think it's an interesting area of exploration. Now, I know a lot of you have AI news fatigue. Wild West Dan is saying it in our chat room right now. So let's talk products, Sarah. Let's do it. Okay. So at Google IO this morning, boy, did the company talk about a lot of things. Let's start with some of the hardware that we've been anticipating first. Pixel fold, foldable 120 Hertz, 7.6 inch main screen has 5.8 inch exterior screen when it's folded. It's running a tensor G2 chip has 128 gigabytes of RAM and sells for $1800 available now for pre-order shipping in June. Shannon, something tells me you pre-ordered. Yeah, maybe. So what, you know, the, the, this was anticipated the, the pixel fold, you know, a lot, a lot of leaks, a lot of spec leaks have come out at this point. At the same time, was there anything during Google's official keynote that stood out to you? Quite a bit for the pixel fold specifically. In fact, there's a lot of things that I feel like they, they took into their first generation pixel fold that Samsung, for example, didn't ever implement into their original generations of their Z fold. Like I have one right here, one of the things, and it's just this random thing. When you unfold it, it lays flat, because the bumper for the lenses is flat on the back of the phone. And that's something that's kind of annoying with other folds that I have used, but the pixel fold is making it a little bit more, more streamlined almost. Like a better design. And apparently they're not sacrificing the lenses either. It's still using those premium pixel lenses too. So that's definitely a plus for me as a content creator. There's a lot of ways that I can definitely see using this. I'm glad that they demoed it, demoed it actually folding on during the event. It was a live demo. It did not crack. It did not crease. So it looks really nice when he was using it on stage. I can't wait to use one in person. And I'm very excited to be able to use multitasking on here. That's one thing that sometimes I've been able to use quite well on my older Z folds, but I would like to see it implemented differently on the Google Pixel line, especially with Google Pixel's integrations with things like Bard and AI and all of the different workspace apps that I use. I think that that's going to be implemented very nicely, but of course I'm going to have to wait until I see it in person. I can't wait to see this in person too, because there was some reflection off that screen that implied there was a coating. So I want to see what that's about. And that sometimes you didn't see the crease. Sometimes you saw a little dip in there. So I want to know what that looks like in person. But they made a big deal how this is the thinnest foldable on the market, which isn't saying much when there's like three foldables on the market. But it did look nice. It looked very nicely designed. I'm with you there. You know, if I could nitpick at all, and I was pretty impressed with the show off overall. But yeah, when the Pixel Fold was folded and they were playing, it was a video of somebody skiing. It was like, and here's what we can do. Basically full screen, open it up, and now you've got the video that's nicer and full screen. Yeah, the continuity thing. That was impressive. Cool. But I felt like I could see the crease. Now that may not bother you. And again, yeah, it may have been the lighting overhead that just kind of showed it a little bit more than it ever would before. That's why I want to see it in person. Just a reflection. Yeah, it's incredibly cool. I just felt like, you know, it's that crease thing. Let's see if Google has solved it more than we've seen in the past. It seems like a pretty good deal, too, if you pre-ordered one from Google because it comes with the free Pixel Watch. Think about Pixel Watch away with everything, don't they? I'm okay with it, though. I love that little Pixel Watch. Mine's charging right now because the battery doesn't last very long. But that's my biggest con about it. So you can get one for like, that's a $400 savings if you get the LTE one, which is included in that deal. So that's a pretty good deal. Rounding out some hardware announcements. The Pixel 7a, that's a 6.1-inch Pixel phone with a 6.1-inch screen, face unlock, wireless charging available, and available Thursday for many of us tomorrow for $499. We also have the Pixel tablet. That's an 11-inch tablet that has a sensor G2 processor available for pre-order now arriving in June. Yay! Shannon, did you buy your pieces at all? How many of those did you buy? All of them, yes. My answer is yes. The Pixel 6a, I'm never a more budget line person since I do a lot of content creation, but I did order one so that I could review it and stress test it myself. I'm not too happy about the $50 increase in the price, but it does come with the upgraded specs. Do you want to spend $500 on an A-Series when you can get something for $100 more? That's more of their flagships. It kind of depends on what kind of margin you fall within. The Pixel tablet looks really cool. I'm very intrigued by that device. Given the price, it's $499, I'm a little concerned that the processing might be around the same as the Pixel 7, for example, which cannot. It's got a sensor G2 in it, though. It does, but I've tested all of the current Pixel phones and those always crash Adobe Rush whenever I'm editing 4K videos, and that's a concern of mine. Having something that could potentially edit 4K would be nice, but I know that's a very niche issue. Not everybody is going to experience that. However, if you're just using this for home usage around your household, pick it up from the charging stand and move it into your living room or something, it's going to be a very useful piece of technology that you can use to run your home or call people via Google Meet. The video quality looks really great on it. Hopefully it looks the same when we get it in person as well. The dock made all the difference for me. I was underwhelmed by this 11-inch Android tablet and them trying to tell me how great Android tablets were in the three others that exist comparing it to them. Then they put the speaker dock out and it became a smart display. I'm like, oh, a $500 smart display that you can then pull off and use it as a tablet and runs all the Android apps that does start to interest me more. I thought that was a really smart move to throw in that.  No, it's there with the $499 price. You can actually buy it separately for $130 if you want to use it with a different tablet, I guess. But yeah, I thought that was smart. And they have a case that is sold separately for around, I think it's $80. And that one comes with a little stand that you can kick out, like a little kick stand. Oh yeah, that was a cute little thing. Very cute. I feel like that would be very useful. And it fits in the dock with the case on, even with the case down. Yeah. It does. So it'll be fun to test out the magnets, see how it attaches to the stand and see how well it works because if it's not very durable, it might just fall off the stand. So that's going to be something I was thinking about while I was watching them talk about it. Well, for anybody who is thinking about buying a new piece of pixel hardware, Google did announce Pixel Colossus, Pixel Speech, Pixel Safe, Pixel Camera, and improvements to Google Photos. And they actually opened up the show with Magic Editor, which if you're familiar with Magic Eraser, which was already available on Pixel phones, Magic Editor allows you to do what Eraser does but a lot more and says it's AI focused. So for example, in the example they used, it was somebody who was in front of a waterfall and they were in the demo itself able to move the woman so that she was in a different position under the waterfall and the photo generated what had been moved. It looked pretty slick. So, you know, just keep that in mind. New feature, Magic Editor, good to know. Yeah, keep that in mind. Next time you see a perfect photo, maybe it was Magic Editor all along. Hey, that's fine. Like if my pictures look better, I don't care if it's like AI generated legs or something. Yeah, I mean, yeah, it's easier for me. Good stuff. As on the Android front, we have WhatsApp coming to Wear OS this summer. Find My is the way that you can find your devices. We'll work with Tile, Chipolo, and other manufacturers. Unknown Tracker Alerts, industry standards to work across all phones that's coming this summer basically allowing you to have a better idea if you're being tracked and to be able to handle your own trackers. Google did push our CS again. I saw some chatter online of people being like, it's Google messaging, but it's already Google messaging. So I guess it's just Google being like, this is the way to go. They're trying to get Apple to adopt our CS. Good luck. Exactly. This is the way. Magic Compose, it's coming to Google Messages. That's powered by Generative AI. Material U has new customization options for your lock screen. You can add a clock, emoji wallpaper, that sort of stuff.  You can add motion and 3D. That's coming to Pixel devices next month. And yeah, as far as updates to Android, Shannon, what stood out to you? Yeah, lots of cute little minor upgrades. I did announce the new FindMy working with a series of different Bluetooth trackers a few days ago, and that was a really big thing for me, especially to combat things like stalking that I know a lot of people have dealt with. So that was a, I'm very glad that they mentioned that. And I just love all the pretty things that they're doing with the lock screen. I'm very excited to make my lock screen look nicer. Yeah. The Magic Compose I thought was interesting because you can choose the style of your response, including Shakespearean. Interesting. Yeah. Or I'm in a bad mood. Yeah. I mean, that's not what they showed off, but that would be kind of fun. That would be fun. Folks, what do you want to hear us talk about on the show? One way to let us know is our subreddit. You can submit stories and vote on them. Go on over there at dailytechnewshow.reddit.com. AI was the rest of IO. We're going to talk about that now. So Google Search is a big product at Google. You might have heard that. They put more emphasis on how search can be good in their demo today. It can be about questions and answers, less emphasis on keywords, including something they called snapshot that uses generative AI to summarize the results at the top with links to sites corroborating the information. They did a lot of good work at showing you the sources of where the summary is coming from. They even were able to assuage the fears of merchants to say, like, oh, your shopping ads will still show up above that AI summary. And in fact, shopping, we can create a little guide that will include your shopping links within the AI summary. But Shannon, what they didn't really do is give us a lot of good reasons to continue to scroll down past that summary to the rest of the search results, which will still be down there. That's very, very true. You know, earlier when I was watching this, I was thinking about how useful this would be like for content creators because some of the search results that you would get would include things like YouTube shorts or full length YouTube videos. So if you have something in the video, it looks like it'll be able to find that for you and show you the video itself as well as regular text things too. So that sounded pretty intriguing to me as something that I could use for my business. But if people are scrolling down past the first page, like, what if you do get really bad search results depending on whatever your prompts are? Because now I'm going to start calling search queries prompts just like I do with AI. That's what they want you to do. Yeah. Well, and I think, you know, the whole thing that you could say is, well, OK, other chatbots have already, you know, it's not like Google's reinventing the let me ask a question and get an answer that sounds more like a human.  Very true. But Google search is the way that people search. So the idea that Google's like, OK, if Sarah said, you know, cat, tree, the Washington DC river type thing, well, you might get a bunch of results that I might be able to click on my news tab or my video tab and sort of be like, OK, here's what I was kind of looking for. And I'm very used to doing that. And I think a lot of us are. And Google's saying, we know what you want. We're trying to make this in a more personable way, I guess. We're trying to give you the overview of what you wanted and you don't have to talk to us like that. What they want to do is have you just say what you want and they'll know what you mean rather than have to craft the search query, right? Right.  But also they're devaluing SEO because. Yeah. I think a lot of people are going to be pretty freaked out about that. Yeah, I think so too. Let's talk about Bard. Google Bard is out of the wait list now in 180 plus countries and territories. More coming soon. Google Bard now works in Japanese and Korean. They plan to support 40 languages soon. And they are tying it in with other tools. So they mentioned Instacart, Indeed, Khan Academy. We'll be tying into Bard. But the one that was really the demo pleaser was Firefly, Adobe Firefly, where you could have it go to Firefly to make an image. So you get a little multimodal without Bard having to be multimodal because Adobe Firefly is making the image for you and then giving it to Bard. Shannon, it felt like they just had to address Bard and the big news here was coming out of wait list. What did you think? I'm very interested, especially with using Adobe Firefly to generate images because those I feel like ethically I would much rather use that than any of the other AI image generation tools that are on the market right now. So for me, that sounds like something I would actually use, especially if I can create like my own stock images when I'm editing videos and add stock images into my videos. Like I can see very real life use cases for making my own creations. Yeah, I thought it was more compelling when they showed AI and you can output Google Bard into Gmail and Docs now too. But when they showed AI in context, they showed it where you could tell Gmail, write me a letter to someone and it would write the letter. That seemed like that's what Google is good at and that's what Google always wanted to do.  That's a good point. Yeah, it did feel like, I mean, and maybe I was reading a little too much into it, there was a little of like, hey, we know you weren't really all that impressed with Bard. Here's today why, here are all the reasons why you will be going forward. And honestly, listen, I use pretty much all Google products on a daily basis. Well, not every single one, but several of them. And for me to be able to incorporate Bard into stuff that maybe I don't do every day. I'm not creating a spreadsheet every day that has to have very specific parameters. But that stuff, those demos were really impressive to me. Yeah. Oh, sorry, go ahead. Oh, I was just going to mention, I'm kind of surprised that they took it out of weight listing today. I was expecting it to be weight listed for a bit longer. But I wonder if they did that to help it learn faster, have more queries generated. So maybe it will get better. I think just based on the other tools that everybody's playing around with and are getting so much press and buzz, it's like, let's just, for example, I'd never played with Bard until today, until it was like, okay, I'm off the weight list. Cool. Let's see. Let's have some time here. I've tested it compared to chat GPT, and I found it to be, to give me less informational responses whenever I was putting in prompts. So I tend to lead towards chat GPT for a lot of things that I was doing because Bard just wasn't doing it for me. I feel like Bard's a bit of a distraction for Google, because when they started talking about their actual engines, it was much more impressive to me. Palm II is the next engine. It is now powering Bard, supports more than 100 languages, can write code, has more reasoning and coding capabilities. They were really hammering what it could do to help developers. It's already powering 25 Google products. It's available to developers through an API and what caught my eye was Project Tailwind, which I have signed up on the weight list for. That uses docs from your Google Drive that you pointed at. You decide what it can look at, and then create sort of an AI-first notebook where you can say, hey, look at all my scripts and tell me which ones I've done, or summarize these notes and turn it into a letter that I can send to somebody. I thought Project Tailwind was probably one of the more promising and very Google-impressive things that I saw. I feel like I would use this as well, and one of the reasons is because I have searched through old notes, old docs, trying to find specific information from previous videos I've scripted, and it's so hard to do. So this could be extremely useful. The next model will be Gemini. It'll be multimodal. I think they said there was something like six different things it can do. They also talked about bringing it into Google Workspace. That's where you did the help me write that I mentioned earlier with Gmail. You could do help me write in docs to help you make a doc as well. If you've got Project Tailwind, then you can combine that with it knowing what's in your docs. There's the sidebar, which they kept calling sidekick that can show up in slides and sheets and docs where you can have it look at what you're writing and get some assistance from that. And it is now Duet AI. Their productivity apps are called Duet AI for Workspace. So that's all combined together. Preview experience in Workspace available if you want to try to sign up at google.com slash labs. That's all the enterprise-y stuff.  So you can imagine there's an immersive view in maps that lets you zoom in and kind of fly above your root and see it. There's some updates to Vertex AI, which is their Google Cloud AI product. If you're in the enterprise, they've got Imogen for Image Generations, Codi for Code Completion, and Chirp for Speech-to-Text that you can run yourself. Duet AI is coming to Google Cloud as well. So you can run it for your own instance. A3 virtual machines based on NVIDIA H100 GPUs, already powering Anthropic and mid-journeys cloud instances, could power yours as well. They had a whole lot to say about safety. They kept trying to reassure people that they've got good ethics. They had their technology and society had come out and talk about watermarking so that you can identify what's been made by their AI metadata so you can see the context where files came from.  Google Home or was touched on very briefly. Google Home app is coming out of public preview with its update May 11th. That adds matter support on the iOS version. A Wear OS 4 emulator and developer preview launch coming to consumers later this year.  Dark Web reporting coming to all Gmail accounts in the US. And Project Starline 3D video chat, according to Scott Stein over at CNET, has been shrunk from the size of a booth to the size of a large TV and is being tested at Salesforce and we work among others. So lots of stuff out of Google. Well, we are going to talk about some of the standouts because we could not possibly get through everything during DTNS in GDI. So stick around for that. But Shannon Morris, we could not have done today without you. Thank you so much for being with us, especially because I know you took one for the team and bought everything. Let folks know where they can keep up with your updates on the fun Pixel stuff that you will be reviewing. YouTube.com slash Shannon Morris and please watch my reviews when they come out so that I can pay myself back for all of these products that I just bought. It's not sponsored, so I would appreciate the views. Good stuff. Well, you're a good reviewer and we look forward to that. Also, we always look forward to new patrons and today we have a new patron to thank, George. Thank you for joining us. And George, back to us on Patreon. So big old thanks to you, George. Three cheers for George. Now, if you're like, man, I wish I could be like George, but I just don't have the money for that. You can still follow us on Patreon for free. Become a free patron, a brand new option. Go to patreon.com slash DTNS. Scroll down past the paid options and you will find Join Daily Tech News Show for free. You'll get monthly updates. You'll get Roger's column and you'll get the Friday Good Day Internet. That's all for free at patreon.com slash DTNS. As Sarah said, stick around. We're going to talk a little more about I.O. Because there was a lot. Patrons. But just a reminder, you can catch our show live Monday through Friday, 4 p.m. Eastern, 200 UTC. Find out more at dailytechnewshow.com slash live. We are back talking about ROG Alley with our ally, Scott Johnson. Talk to you then.


right here. I'm Susan Thompson, Human Resource Manager here. Hello, I'm Adam Thorne. Here's my resume. Great. Thanks. Have a seat. So tell me about yourself. Well, I'm a hard worker. I will do anything you need me to. I'm never late and I get along very well with co-workers. I have two years of experience working in a kitchen and I understand that good quality is very important to your company. I want to work here because I like your products and I would be very happy to work for this company. That's great. It says here that your kitchen experience was in a small cafe. Have you ever had experience working in a large commercial kitchen before? No, but I think it would be very interesting. I learned quickly. Okay. When you finish a task, how do you know what to do next? Well, I look around to see if anyone needs help. If no one needs help, then I find something to clean. Sometimes I ask the supervisor what I can do. Very good. Do you have any questions for me? Yes. What is the most important part of this job? Well, as you said before, quality is very important to our company. Employees must follow directions exactly for us to get the best product possible. I can do that. I believe in doing things the right way every time. Great. Well, it's been nice meeting you. We will make phone calls tomorrow and let you know if you get the job. It's been nice to meet you too. I really hope you call me. I would love to work here. We'll let you know tomorrow. Have a good afternoon.