Section 29 of the Book of Household Management. Double and Squeak. Cold Meat Cookery. 616. Ingredients. A few thin slices of cold boiled beef, butter, cabbage, one sliced onion, pepper, and salt to taste. Mode. Fry the slices of beef gently in a little butter, taking care not to dry them up. Lay them on a flat dish and cover with fried greens. The greens may be prepared from cabbage sprouts or greens of voice. They should be boiled till tender, well-drained, minced, and placed till quite hot in a frying pan with butter, a sliced onion, and seasoning of pepper and salt. When the onion is done it is ready to serve. Time altogether one half hour. Average cost exclusive of the cold beef three pence. Seasonable at any time. Collard beef 617. Ingredients. Seven pounds of the thin end of the flank of beef. Two ounces of coarse sugar. Six ounces of salt. One ounce of salt, Peter. One large handful of parsley, minced. One dessert spoonful of minced sage.  One half teaspoonful of pounded allspice, salt, and pepper to taste. Mode. Choose fine tender beef but not too fat. Lay it in a dish. Rub in the sugar, salt, and salt, Peter, and let it remain in the pickle for a week or ten days, turning and rubbing it every day. Then bone it, remove all the gristle and the coarse skin of the inside part, and sprinkle it thickly with parsley, herbs, spice, and seasoning in the above proportion, taking care that the former are finely minced and the latter well pounded. Roll the meat up in a cloth as tightly as possible. In the same shape as shown in the engraving, bind it firmly with broad tape and boil it gently for six hours. Immediately on taking it out of the pot, put it under a good weight without undoing it and let it remain until cold. This dish is a very nice addition to the breakfast table. Time. Six hours. Average cost for this quantity for shillings. Seasonable at any time. Note. During the time the beef is in pickle, it should be kept cool and regularly rubbed and turned every day. Beef collops. Six one eight. Ingredients. Two pounds of rump steak. One quarter pound of butter. One pint of gravy. Water may be substituted for this. Salt and pepper to taste. One shallot finely minced. One half pickled walnut. One teaspoonful of capers. Mode. Have the steak cut thin and divided in pieces about three inches long. Beat these with the blade of a knife and dredge with flour. Put them in a frying pan with the butter and let them fry for about three minutes. Then lay them in a small stew pan and pour over them the gravy.  Put in the seasoning and all the other ingredients and let the whole simmer but not boil for ten minutes. Serve in a hot covered dish. Time. Ten minutes. Average cost. One shilling per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Seasonable at any time. Minced collops and entree. Six one nine. Ingredients. One pound of rump steak. Salt and pepper to taste. Two ounces of butter. One onion. Minced. One fourth pint of water. One tablespoon full of Harvey's sauce or lemon juice or mushroom ketchup.  Mode. Mince the beef and onion very small and fry the ladder in butter until of a pale brown. Put all the ingredients together in a stew pan and boil gently for about ten minutes. Garnish with zippets of toasted bread and serve very hot. Time. Ten minutes. Average cost. One shilling per pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. Seasonable at any time. Curried beef. Cold meat cookery. Six two oh. Ingredients. A few slices of tolerably lean cold roast or boiled beef. Three ounces of butter. Two onions.  One dessert spoonful of curry powder. Mode. Cut up the beef into pieces about one inch square. Put the butter into a stew pan with the onion sliced and fry them of a lightly brown color. Add all the other ingredients and stir gently over a brisk fire for about ten minutes. Should this be thought too dry, more beer or a spoonful or two of gravy or water may be added. But a good curry should not be very thin. Place it in a deep dish with an edging of dry boiled rice in the same manner as for other curries. Time. Ten minutes. Average cost. Exclusive of the meat. Four pence. Seasonable in winter. To clarify beef dripping. One. Six two one. Good and fresh dripping answers very well for basting everything except game and poultry. And when well clarified serves for frying nearly as well as lard. It should be kept in a cool place and will remain good some time. To clarify it put the dripping into a basin. Pour over it boiling water and keep stirring the hole to wash away the impurities. Let it stand to cool when the water and dirty sediment will settle at the bottom of the basin. Remove the dripping and put it away in jars or basins for use. Another way. Six two two. Put the dripping into a clean saucepan and let it boil for a few minutes over a slow fire and be careful to skim it well. Let it stand to cool a little then strain it through a piece of muslin into jars for use. Beef dripping is preferable to any other for cooking purposes. As with mutton dripping there is liable to be a tallowy taste and smell. Roast fillet of beef. Larded. Six two three. Ingredients. About four pounds of the inside fillet of the sirloin. One onion.  Salt and pepper to taste. Sufficient vinegar to cover the meat. Glaze. Spanish sauce. Number four one one. Mode. Lard the beef with bacon and put it into a pan with sufficient vinegar to cover it with an onion sliced parsley and seasoning and let it remain in this pickle for 12 hours. Roast it before a nice clear fire for about one and a quarter hour and when done glaze it. Pour some Spanish sauce round the beef and the remainder serve in a terrine. It may be garnished with Spanish onions boiled and glazed. Time one and a half hours. Average cost exclusive of the sauce for shillings. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Seasonable at any time. Frickin' dough of beef. Six two four. Ingredients. About three pounds of the inside fillet of the sirloin. A piece of the rump may be substituted for this. Pepper and salt to taste. Three cloves. Two blades of mace. Six whole allspice. One pint of stock number 105 or water. One glass of sherry.  Two shallots. Bacon. Mode. Cut some bacon into thin strips and sprinkle over them a seasoning of pepper and salt mixed with cloves, mace and allspice well pounded. Lard the beef with these. Put it into a stew pan with the stock or water sherry, herbs, shallots, two cloves and more pepper and salt. Stew the meat gently until tender. When take it out cover it closely skim off all the fat from the gravy and strain it. Set it on the fire and boil till it becomes a glaze. Glaze the larded side of the beef with this and serve on sorrel sauce which is made as follows. Wash and pick some sorrel and put it into a stew pan with only the water that hangs about it. Keep stirring to prevent it's burning and when done lay it in a sieve to drain. Chop it and stew it with a small piece of butter and four or six tablespoonfuls of good gravy for an hour and rub it through a tammy. If two acid add a little sugar and a little cabbage lettuce boiled with the sorrel will be found an improvement. Time, two hours to gently stew the meat. Average cost for this quantity, four shillings, sufficient for six persons, seasonable at any time. Fried salt beef, cold meat cookery, six to five, ingredients, a few slices of cold salt beef, pepper to taste, one quarter pound of butter, mashed potatoes. Mode. Cut any part of cold salt beef into thin slices, fry them gently in butter and season with a little pepper. Have ready some very hot mashed potatoes, lay the slices of beef on them and garnish with three or four pickled gherkins. Cold salt beef warmed in a little liquor from mixed pickle, drained and served as above will be found good. Time, about five minutes, average cost, exclusive of the meat, four pence, seasonable at any time. Fried rump steak, six to six, ingredients, steaks, butter or clarified dripping. Mode. Although broiling is a far superior method of cooking steaks to frying them, yet when the cook is not very expert the latter mode may be adopted and when properly done the dish may really look very inviting and the flavor be good. The steaks should be cut rather thinner than for broiling and with a small quantity of fat to each. Put some butter or clarified dripping into a frying pan, let it get quite hot then lay in the steaks. Turn them frequently until done which will be in about eight minutes or rather more should the steaks be very thick.  They should be sent to table quickly as when cold the steaks are entirely spoiled. Time, eight minutes for a medium-sized steak rather longer for a very thick one. Average cost, one shilling per pound. Seasonable all the year but not good in summer as the meat cannot hang to get tender. Note where much gravy is liked make it in the following manner. As soon as the steaks are done dish them pour a little boiling water into the frying pan.  Hold the pan over the fire for a minute or two just let the gravy simmer then pour on the steak and serve. A Frenchman's opinion of beef. The following is translated from a celebrated modern French work. The production of one who in Paris enjoys a great reputation as cook and chemist. The flesh of the ox to be in the best condition should be taken from an animal of from four to six years old and neither too fat nor too lean. This meat which possesses in the highest degree the most nutritive qualities is generally easily digested. Stock is made from it and it is eaten boiled, broiled, roasted, stewed, braised and in a hundred other different ways. Beef is the foundation of stock, gravies, braises, etc. Its nutritious and succulent gravy gives body and flavor to numberless ragus. It is an exhaustless mind in the hands of a skillful artist and is truly the king of the kitchen. Without it no soup no gravy and its absence would produce almost a famine in the civilized world. Beef fritters, cold meat cookery, six to seven, ingredients, the remains of cold roast beef, pepper and salt to taste, three-quarter pounds of flour, one half pint of water, two ounces of butter, the whites of two eggs. Mode. Mix very smoothly and by degrees the flour with the above proportion of water. Stir in two ounces of butter which must be melted but not oiled and just before it is to be used add the whites of two well-whisked eggs. Should the batter be too thick more water must be added. Pair down the cold beef into thin shreds, season with pepper and salt and mix it with the batter. Drop a small quantity at a time into a pan of boiling lard and fry from seven to ten minutes according to the size. When done on one side turn and brown them on the other. Let them dry for a minute or two before the fire and serve on a folded napkin. A small quantity of finely minced onions mixed with the batter is an improvement. Time from seven to ten minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, six pence. Seasonable at any time. Hashed beef, cold meat cookery, one, six to eight, ingredients. Gravy saved from the meat, one teaspoon full of tomato sauce, one teaspoon full of Harvey's sauce, one teaspoon full of good mushroom ketchup, one half glass of port wine or strong ale, pepper and salt to taste, a little flour to thicken, one onion finely minced, a few slices of cold roast beef. Mode. Put all the ingredients but the beef into a stew pan with whatever gravy may have been saved from the meat the day it was roasted. Let these simmer gently for ten minutes then take the stew pan off the fire. Let the gravy cool and skim off the fat. Cut the beef into thin slices, dredge them with flour and lay them in the gravy. Let the whole simmer gently for five minutes but not boil or the meat will be tough and hard. Serve very hot and garnish with snippets of toasted bread. Time twenty minutes, average cost exclusive of the cold meat, four pence. Seasonable at any time. Two, six to nine, ingredients. The remains of ribs or sirloin of beef, two onions, one carrot, one bunch of savory herbs, pepper and salt to taste, one half blade of pounded mace, thickening of flour, rather more than one pint of water. Mode. Take off all the meat from the bones of ribs or sirloin of beef. Remove the outside brown and gristle. Place the meat on one side and well stew the bones and pieces with the above ingredients for about two hours till it becomes a strong gravy and is reduced to rather more than one half pint. Strain this, thicken with a teaspoon full of flour and let the gravy cool. Skim off all the fat, lay in the meat, let it get hot through but do not allow it to boil and garnish with snippets of toasted bread. The gravy may be flavored as in the preceding recipe. Time rather more than two hours, average cost exclusive of the cold meat, two pence. Seasonable at any time. Note, either of the above recipes may be served in walls of mashed potatoes brown, in which case the snippets should be omitted. Be careful that hashed meat does not boil or it will become tough. To prepare hung beef, 6-3-0. This is preserved by salting and drying, either with or without smoke. Hang up the beef three or four days till it becomes tender but take care it does not begin to spoil. Then salt it in the usual way either by dry salting or by brine with bay salt, brown sugar, salt peter and a little pepper and all spice. Afterwards roll it tight in a cloth and hang it up in a warm but not hot place for a fortnight or more till it is sufficiently hard. If required to have a little of the smoky flavor it may be hung for some time in a chimney corner or smoked in any other way. It will keep a long time. Hunter's beef 6-3-1. Ingredients. For a round of beef weighing 25 pounds allow three ounces of salt peter, three ounces of coarse sugar, one ounce of cloves, one grated nutmeg, one half ounces of all spice, one pound of salt, one half pound bay salt, mode. Let the beef hang for two or three days and remove the bone, pound spices, salt, etc in the above proportion and let them be reduced to the finest powder. Put the beef into a pan, rub all the ingredients well into it and turn and rub it every day for rather more than a fortnight. When it has been sufficiently long in pickle, wash the meat, bind it up securely with tape and put it into a pan with one half pint of water at the bottom. Mince some suet, cover the top of the meat with it and over the pan put a common crust of flour and water. Bake for six hours and when cold remove the paste. Save the gravy that flows from it as it adds greatly to the flavor of hashes, stews, etc. The beef may be glazed and garnished with meat jelly. Time six hours, seasonable all the year. Note, in salting or pickling beef or pork for family consumption, it's not being generally required to be kept for a great length of time. A less quantity of salt and a larger quantity of other matters more adapted to retain mellowness in meat may be employed, which could not be adapted by the cure of the immense quantities of meat required to be preserved for victualing the shipping of this maritime country. Sugar, which is well known to possess the preserving principle in a very great degree, without the pungency and astringency of salt, may be, and is, very generally used in the preserving of meat for family consumption. Although it acts without corrugating or contracting the fibers of meat, as is the case in the action of salt, and therefore does not impair its mellowness, yet its use in sufficient quantities for preservative effect without the addition of other antiseptics would impart a flavor not agreeable to the taste of many persons. It may be used, however, together with salt, with the greatest advantage in imparting mildness and mellowness to cured meat, in a proportion of about one part by weight to four of the mixture, and perhaps, now that sugar is so much lower in price than it was in former years, one of the obstructions to its more frequent use is removed. To dress beef kidney, one, six, three, two ingredients, one kidney, clarified butter, pepper and salt to taste, a small quantity of highly seasoned gravy, one tablespoon full of lemon juice, one quarter teaspoon full of powdered sugar. Mode. Cut the kidneys into neat slices, put them in warm water to soak for two hours, and change the water two or three times. Then put them on a clean cloth to dry the water from them, and lay them in a frying pan with some clarified butter, and fry them of a nice brown. Season each side with pepper and salt, put them round the dish, and the gravy in the middle. Before pouring the gravy in the dish, add the lemon juice and sugar. Time, from five to ten minutes, average cost nine pence each, seasonable at any time. Two, six, three, three, ingredients, one kidney, one dessert spoonful of minced parsley, one teaspoon full of minced shallot, salt and pepper to taste, one quarter pint of gravy, number four, three, eight, three tablespoon fulls of sherry. Mode. Take off a little of the kidney fat, mince it very fine, and put it in a frying pan. Slice the kidney, sprinkle over it parsley and shallots in the above proportion, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and fry it of a nice brown. When it is done enough, dredge over a little flour, and pour in the gravy and sherry. Let it just simmer but not boil anymore, or the kidney would harden. Serve very hot and garnish with croutons. Where the flavor of the shallot is disliked, it may be omitted, and a small quantity of savory herbs substituted for it. Time from five to ten minutes according to the thickness of the slices. Average cost nine pence each, sufficient for three persons, seasonable at any time. Three, a more simple method, six, three, four. Cut the kidney into thin slices, flour them, and fry of a nice brown. When done, make a gravy in the pan by pouring away the fat, putting in a small piece of butter, one quarter pint of boiling water, pepper and salt, and a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. Let the gravy just boil up, pour over the kidney, and serve. Boiled marrow bones, six, three, five, ingredients.  Mode.  Over this tie a floured cloth, and place them upright in a saucepan of boiling water, taking care there is sufficient to cover the bones. Boil them for two hours, remove the cloth and paste, and serve them upright on a napkin with dry toast. Many persons clear the marrow from the bones after they are cooked, spread it over a slice of toast, and add a seasoning of pepper. When served in this manner it must be very expeditiously sent to table, as it so soon gets cold. Time, two hours, seasonable at any time. Note, marrow bones may be baked after preparing them as in the preceding recipe. They should be laid in a deep dish and baked for two hours. Marrow bones. Bones are formed of a dense cellular tissue of membranous matter, made stiff and rigid by insoluble earthy salts, of which phosphate of lime is the most abundant. In a large bone the insoluble matter is generally deposited in such a manner as to leave a cavity, into which a fatty substance, distinguished by the name of marrow, is thrown. Hollow syndrilical bones possess the qualities of strength and lightness in a remarkable degree. If bones were entirely solid they would be unnecessarily heavy, and if their materials were brought into smaller compass they would be weaker, because the strength of a bone is in proportion to the distance at which its fibers are from the center. Some animals it must, however, be observed, have no cavities in the center of their bones, such as the whale tribe, skate, and turtles. Minced beef. Cold meat cookery. Six-three-six. Ingredients. One ounce of butter, one small onion, two tablespoon fulls of gravy left from the meat, one tablespoon full of strong ale, one half a teaspoon of flour, salt and pepper to taste, a few slices of lean roast beef. Mode. Put into a stew pan the butter with an onion chopped fine. Add the gravy, ale, and one half a teaspoon of flour to thicken. Season with pepper and salt, and stir these ingredients over the fire until the onion is a rich brown. Cut, but do not chop the meat very fine. Add it to the gravy, stir till quite hot, and serve. Garnish with cippets of toasted bread. Be careful in not allowing the gravy to boil after the meat is added, as it would render it hard and tough. Time, about half an hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, three pence. Seasonable at any time. Miraton of beef. Six-three-seven. Ingredients. A few slices of cold roast beef, three ounces of butter, salt and pepper to taste, three onions, one half pint of gravy. Mode. Slice the onions and put them into a frying pan with the cold beef and butter. Place it over the fire, and keep turning and stirring the ingredients to prevent them burning. When of a pale brown, add the gravy and seasoning. Let it simmer for a few minutes, and serve very hot. This dish is excellent and economical. Time, five minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, six pence. Seasonable at any time. Stewed ox cheek. Six-three-eight. Ingredients. One cheek, salt and water, four or five onions, butter and flour, six cloves, three turnips, two carrots, one bay leaf, one head of celery, one bunch of savory herbs, cayenne, black pepper and salt to taste, one ounce of butter, two dessert spoonfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls of chili vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, two tablespoonfuls of port wine, two tablespoonfuls of Harvey's sauce. Mode. Have the cheek boned and prepare it the day before it is to be eaten by cleaning and putting it to soak all night in salt and water. The next day, wipe it dry and clean and put it into a stew pan. Just cover it with water, skim well when it boils, and let it gently simmer till the meat is quite tender. Slice and fry three onions in a little butter and flour and put them into the gravy.  Let these stew till perfectly tender, then take out the cheek, divide into pieces fit to help at table, skim and strain the gravy, and thicken one and a half pints of it with butter and flour in the above proportions. Add the vinegar, ketchup, and port wine. Put in the pieces of cheek, let the whole boil up and serve quite hot. Send it to table in a ragout dish. If the color of the gravy should not be very good, add a tablespoon full of the browning, number 108. Time, four hours. Average cost, three pence per pound. Sufficient for eight persons. Seasonable at any time. Fried ox feet or cow heel, 639. Ingredients, ox feet, the yolk of one egg, breadcrumbs, parsley, salt and cayenne to taste, boiling butter. Mode. Wash, scald, and thoroughly clean the feet, and cut them into pieces about two inches long. Have ready some fine breadcrumbs mixed with a little minced parsley, cayenne, and salt. Dip the pieces of heel into the yolk of egg, sprinkle them with the breadcrumbs, and fry them until of a nice brown in boiling butter. Time, one hour. Average cost, six pence each. Seasonable at any time. Note, ox feet may be dressed in various ways, stowed in gravy or plainly boiled and served with melted butter. When plainly boiled, the liquor will answer for making sweet or relishing jellies, and also to give richness to soups or gravies. Stewed ox tails, 640. Ingredients, two ox tails, one onion, three cloves, one blade of mace, one teaspoonful of whole black pepper, one teaspoonful of allspice, one half a teaspoon of salt, a small bunch of savory herbs, thickening of butter and flour, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. Mode. Divide the tails at the joints, wash, and put them into a stew pan with sufficient water to cover them, and set them on the fire. When the water boils, remove the scum, and add the onion cut into rings, the spice, seasoning, and herbs. Cover the stew pan closely, and let the tails simmer very gently until tender, which will be in about two and a half hours. Take them out, make a thickening of butter and flour, add it to the gravy, and let it boil for one quarter hour. Strain it through a sieve into a saucepan, put back the tails, add the lemon juice and ketchup, let the whole just boil up, and serve. Garnish with croutons or snippets of toasted bread. Time, two and a half hours to stew the tails. Average cost, nine pence to one shilling six pence according to the season, sufficient for eight persons, seasonable all the year. The tails of animals. In the class Mamelia, the vertebral column or backbone presents only slight modifications, and everywhere shows the same characteristics as in man, who stands at the head of this division of the animal kingdom. The length of this column, however, varies much, and the number of vertebrae of which it is composed is far from being uniform. These numerical differences principally depend on the unequal development of the caudal portion, or tail end, of the column. Thus, the tail forming vertebrae sometimes do not exist at all, amongst certain bats, for example. In other instances we reckon forty, fifty, and even upwards of sixty of these bones. Among the greater number of mammals, the tail is of little use for locomotion, except that it acts in many cases as does the rudder of a ship, steadying the animal in his rapid movements, and enabling him to turn more easily and quickly. Among some animals it becomes a very powerful instrument of progression. Thus, in the kangaroos and draboas, the tail forms, with the hind feet, a kind of tripod from which the animal makes its spring. With most of the American monkeys it is prehensile, and serves the animal as a fifth hand to suspend itself from the branches of trees, and lastly, among the whales, it grows to an enormous size and becomes the principal instrument for swimming. End of Section 29, Recording by Aria Lipscha in New York City. Section 30 of the Book of Household Management. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Jennifer Stearns. The Book of Household Management by Isabella Beaton. Section 30. Recipes. Chapter 13, Part 3. A Pickle for Tongues of Beef. New Market Recipe. 641. Ingredients. One gallon of soft water. Three pounds of coarse salt. Three ounces of coarse brown sugar. Half ounce of salt, Peter. Mode. Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and let them boil for half an hour. Clear off the scum as it rises, and when done, pour the pickle into a pickling pan. Let it get cold, then pour in the meat, and allow it to remain in the pickle from eight to 14 days, according to the size. It will keep good for six months if well boiled once a fortnight. Tongues will take one month or six weeks to be properly cured. And insulting meat, beef, and tongues should always be put in separate vessels. Ton. Eye moderate sized tongue should remain in the pickle about a month, and be turned every day. Potted beef. One. 642. Ingredients. Two pounds of lean beef.  A quarter pound of butter. A seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and black pepper. Mode. Procure a nice piece of lean beef, as free as possible from gristle, skin, etc. And put it into a jar. If at hand, one with a lid. With one tablespoon full of water. Cover it closely, and put the jar into a saucepan of boiling water. Letting the water come within two inches of the top of the jar. Boil gently for three and a half hours, then take the beef, chop it very small with a chopping knife, and pound it thoroughly in a mortar. Mix with it by degrees all, or a portion, of the gravy that will have run from it. And a little clarified butter. Add the seasoning, put it in small pots for use, and cover with a little butter just warmed and poured over. If much gravy is added to it, it will keep but a short time. On the contrary, if a large proportion of butter is used, it may be preserved for some time. Time. Three and a half hours. Average cost for this quantity. One shilling. Eight pence. Seasonable at any time. Potted beef. Cold meat cookery. Two. 643. Ingredients. The remains of cold roast or boiled beef. A quarter pound of butter. Cayenne to taste. Two blades of pounded mace. Mode. As we have stated in recipe number 608, the outside slices of boiled beef may, with a little trouble, be converted into a very nice addition to the breakfast table. Cut up the meat into small pieces and pound it well, with a little butter in a mortar. Add a seasoning of cayenne and mace. And be very particular that the lighter ingredient is reduced to the finest powder. When all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, put it into glass or earthen potting pots, and pour on the top a coating of clarified butter. Seasonable at any time. Note. If cold roast beef is used, remove all pieces of gristle and dry outside pieces, as these do not pound well. Preserved meats. When an organic substance, like the flesh of animals, is heated to the boiling point, it loses the property of passing into a state of fermentation and decay. Fresh animal milk, as it is well known, coagulates. After having been kept for two or three days into a gelatinous mass. But it may be preserved for an indefinite period, as a perfectly sweet liquid, if it be heated daily to the boiling point. The knowledge of this effect of an elevated temperature has given rise to a most important branch of industry, namely, the preparation of preserved meats for the use of the navy and merchant service. At Leith, in the neighborhood of Edinburgh, at Aberdeen, at Bordeaux, at Merci, and in many parts of Germany, establishments of enormous magnitude exist, in which soup, vegetables, and viennes of every description are prepared. In such a manner that they retain their freshness for years, the prepared elements are enclosed in canisters of tin iron plate. The covers are soldered airtight, and the canisters exposed to the temperature of boiling water for three or four hours. The elements thus acquire a stability, which one may almost say is eternal. And when a canister is opened, after the lapse of several years, its contents are found to be unaltered in taste, color, and smell. We are indebted to the French philosopher, Guy Lucet, for this beautiful practical application of the discovery that boiling checks fermentation. An exclusive salt meat diet is extremely injurious to the health. In former times, thousands of mariners lost their lives to the want of fresh elements during long voyages. We are sorry to say that the preserved meats are sometimes carelessly prepared, and though the statement seems incredible, sometimes adulterated. Dr. Lancaster, who has done so much to expose the frauds of trade that he ought to be regarded as a public benefactor, says that he has seen things which are utterly unfit for food, shipped as preserved meats. Surely, as he observes, there ought to be some superintendent to examine the so-called articles of food that are taken on board ship, so that the poor men who have been fighting our battles abroad may run no risk of being starved or poisoned on their way home. Rib of beef bones. A pretty dish. 644. Ingredients. Rib of beef bones. One onion chopped fine. A few slices of carrot and turnip. A quarter pint of gravy. Mote. The bones for this dish should have left on them a slight covering of meat, saw them into pieces three inches long, seasoned them with pepper and salt, and put them into a stew pan with the remaining ingredients. Stew gently until the vegetables are tender and serve on a flat dish within walls of mashed potatoes. Time. Three quarters of an hour. Average cost. Exclusive of the bones. Two pence. Seasonable at any time. Beef for souls. Cold meat cookery. 645. Ingredients. The remains of cold roast beef. To each pound of meat allow three quarters pound of breadcrumbs, salt and pepper to taste. A few chopped savory herbs.  One or two eggs according to the quantity of meat. Mote. Minced the beef very fine, which should be rather lean, and mixed with this breadcrumbs, herbs, seasoning and lemon peel in the above proportion to each pound of meat. Make all into a thick paste with one or two eggs.  Garnish the dish with fried parsley and send with them to table some good brown gravy in a terrine. Instead of garnishing with fried parsley, gravy may be poured in the dish round over souls. In this case it will not be necessary to send any in a terrine. Time. From five to ten minutes according to size. Average cost. Exclusive of the meat. Five pence. Seasonable at any time. Roamed beef. To eat like hair. 646. Ingredients. About five pounds of the inside of the sirloin. Two glasses of port wine. Two glasses of vinegar. A small quantity of force meat. Number 417.  Mote.  Soak it in one glass of port wine and one glass of vinegar mixed and let it remain for two days. Make up a force meat per recipe number 417. Lay it on the meat and bind it up securely. Roast it before a nice clear fire and baste it with one glass each of port wine and vinegar. With which mix a teaspoon full of pounded alspice. Serve with a good gravy in the dish and send red current jelly to table with it. Time. A piece of five pounds about one and a half hours before a brisk fire. Average cost for this quantity. Five shillings. Four pence. Sufficient for four persons. Seasonable at any time. Beef rolls. Cold meat cookery. 647. Ingredients. The remains of cold roast or boiled beef. Seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and minced herbs. Puff paste. Mote. Mince the beef tolerably fine with a small amount of its own fat. Add a seasoning of pepper, salt, and chopped herbs. Put the whole into a roll of puff paste and bake for half an hour or rather longer should the roll be very large. Beef patties may be made of cold meat by mincing and seasoning beef as directed above and baking in a rich puff paste in patty tins. Time half an hour. Seasonable at any time. Miniature round of beef. An excellent dish for a small family. 648. Ingredients. From five to ten pounds of rib of beef. Sufficient brine to cover the meat. Mote. Choose a fine rib. Have the bone removed. Rub some salt over the inside and skewer the meat up into a nice round form and bind it with tape. Put it into sufficient brine to cover it. The brine should be made by recipe number 654 and let it remain for six days, turning the meat every day. When required to be dressed, drain from the pickle and put the meat into very hot water. Let it boil rapidly for a few minutes then draw the pot to the side of the fire and let it simmer very gently until done. Remove the skewer and replace it by a plated or silver one. Carrots and turnips should be served with this dish and may be boiled with the meat. Time. A small round of eight pounds about two hours after the water boils. One of 12 pounds about three hours. Average cost. Nine pence per pound. Sufficient for six persons. Seasonable at any time. Note. Should the joint be very small, four or five days will be sufficient time to salt it. Brisket of beef. A la flamande. 649. Ingredients. About six or eight pounds of the brisket of beef. Four or five slices of bacon. Two carrots. One onion.  Salt and pepper to taste. Four cloves. Four whole allspice. Two blades of mace. Mode. Choose that portion of the brisket which contains the gristle. Trim it and put it into a stew pan with the slices of bacon which should be put under and over the meat. Add the vegetables, herbs, spices and seasoning and cover with a little weak stock of water. Close the stew pan as hermetically as possible and simmer very gently for four hours. Strain the liqueur. Reserve a portion of it for sauce. And the remainder boil quickly over a sharp fire until reduced to a glaze. With which glaze the meat. Garnish the dish with scooped carrots and turnips and when liked a little cabbage. All of which must be cooked separately. Thicken and flavor the liqueur that was saved for sauce. Pour it around the meat and serve. The beef may also be garnished with glazed carrots, artichoke bottoms, etc. Time. Four hours. Average cost. Seven pence per pound. Sufficient for four or six persons. Seasonable at any time. French beef. It has been all but universally admitted that the beef of France is greatly inferior in quality to that of England, owing to inferiority of pasturage. Monsieur Camerre, however, one of the latest writers on the culinary art, tells us that this is a vulgar error and that French beef is far superior to that of England. This is mere venting on the part of our neighbours who seem to want la galore and everything. And we shall not deign to notice it. If it had occurred in a work of small pretensions, but Monsieur Camerre's book professes to be a complete exposition of the scientific principles of cookery and holds a high rank in the didactic literature of France, we have suspect that Monsieur Camerre obtained this knowledge of English beef in the same way as to the poor Frenchman, whom the late Mr. Matthews, the Comedian, so humorously described Mr. Lewis in his physiology of common life, has thus revived the story of the beef-eating son of France. A Frenchman was one day blandly remonstrating against a supercilious scorn expressed by Englishmen for the beef of France, which he, for his part, did not find so inferior to that of England. I have been two times to England, he remarked, but I never found the beef superior to ours. I find it very convenient that they bring it to you on little pieces of stick for one penny, but I do not find the beef superior. On hearing this, the Englishmen, read with astonishment, exclaimed, Good heavens, sir, you have been eating cat's meat. No, Monsieur Camerre, we are ready to acknowledge the superiority of your cookery. But we have long since made up our minds as to the inferiority of your raw material. Beef olives, one, six hundred and fifty, ingredients, two pounds of rump steak, one egg, one tablespoon full of minced savory herbs, pepper and salt to taste, one pint of stock, number one hundred and five, two or three slices of beef, two tablespoons of any store sauce, a slight thickening of butter and flour, mode, have the steaks cut rather thin, slightly beat them to make them level, cut them into six or seven pieces, brush over with egg and sprinkle with herbs, which should be very finely minced, season with pepper and salt, and roll up the pieces tightly and fasten with a small skewer. Put the stock in a stew pan that will exactly hold them. For by being pressed together, they will keep their shape better. Lay in the rolls of meat, cover them with a bacon, cut in thin slices, and over that put a piece of paper. Stew them very gently for full two hours, for the slower they are down the better. Take them out, remove the skewers, take in the gravy with butter and flour, and flavor with any store sauce that may be preferred. Give one boil, pour over the meat and serve. Time, two hours, average cost, one shilling per pound, sufficient for four or six persons, seasonable at any time. Two, economical, 651, ingredients. The remains of underdone cold roast beef, breadcrumbs, one shallot finely minced, pepper and salt to taste, gravy made from the beef bones, thickening of butter and flour, one tablespoon full of mushroom ketchup.  Roll them and fasten them with a small skewer. Have ready some gravy made from the beef bones, put in the pieces of meat and stew them until tender, which will be in about one and a quarter hour or rather longer. Arrange the meat in a dish, thicken and flavor the gravy, and pour it over the meat when it is ready to serve. Time, one and a half hour, average cost, exclusive of the beef, two pence, seasonable at any time. Broiled oxtail and entree, 652, ingredients, two tails, one and a half pint of stock, number 105, salt and cayenne to taste, breadcrumbs, one egg. Mode, joint and cut up the tails into convenient sized pieces and put them into a stew pan with a stock, cayenne, and salt.  Let them simmer gently for about two and a half hours, then take them out, drain them, and let them cool.  Broil them over a clear fire until of a broadest color on both sides, and serve with a good gravy or any sauce that may be preferred. Time, about two and a half hours, average cost, from nine pence to one shelling six pence according to the season. Sufficient for six persons, seasonable at any time. Note, these may be more easily prepared by putting the tails in a brisk oven. After they have been dipped in egg and breadcrumb, and when brown, they are done. They must be boiled the same time as for broiling. Strange tales, naturalists cannot explain the uses of some of the strange tales born by animals, in the Egyptian and Syrian sheep, for instance. The tail grows so large, that it is not infrequently supported upon a sort of little cart, in order to prevent inconvenience to the animal. Then, monstrous appendage, sometimes attains a weight of 70, 80, or even 100 pounds. To dress beef pallets, an entree, 653, ingredients, four pallets, sufficient gravy to cover them, number 438, cayenne to taste, one tablespoon full of mushroom ketchup, one tablespoon full of pickled onion liqueur, thickening of butter and flour. Mode, wash the pallets, and put them into a stew pan. With sufficient water to cover them, and let them boil until perfectly tender, or until the ever-skinned may be easily peeled off. Have ready sufficient gravy, number 438, to cover them. Add a good seasoning of cayenne, and thicken with roux, number 625, or a little butter kneaded with flour. Let it boil up and skim. Cut the pallets into square pieces, put them in the gravy, and let them simmer gently for half an hour. Add ketchup and onion liqueur, give one boil, and serve. Time, from 3 to 5 hours to boil the pallets, sufficient to 4 persons, seasonable at any time. Note, pallets may be dressed in various ways with sauce tournay, good onion sauce, tomato sauce, and also served in a voile aval. But the above will be found a more civil method of dressing them. Beef pickle, which may also be used for any kind of meat, tongues, or hams. 654, ingredients, 6 pounds of salt, 2 pounds of fine sugar, 3 ounces of powdered salt, 3 gallons of spring water, mode. Boil all the ingredients gently together, so long as any scum or impurity arises, which carefully remove. When quite cold, pour it over the meat, every part of which must be covered with a brine. This may be used for pickling any kind of meat, and may be kept for some time, if boiled up occasionally, with an addition of the ingredients. Time, a ham should be kept in the pickle for a fortnight, a piece of beef weighing 14 pounds, 12 or 15 days, a tongue, 10 days, or a fortnight. Note, for salting and pickling meat, it is a good plan to rub in only half the quantity of salt directed, and to let it remain for a day or two to disgorge and effectively to get rid of the blood and slime. Then rub in the remainder of the salt and other ingredients. And proceed as above. This rule may be applied to all the recipes we have given for salting and pickling meat, to pick a part of a round of beef for hanging, 655. Ingredients. For 14 pounds of a round of beef, allow one and a half pounds of salt, half pounds of powdered salt peater, or one pound of salt, half pound of sugar, four ounces of powdered salt peater. Mode, rub in, and sprinkle either of the above mixtures on 14 pounds of meat. Keep it in an earthenware pan or a deep wooden tray, and turn twice a week during three weeks, then bind up the beef tightly with coarse linen tape, and hang it in a kitchen in which a fire is constantly kept for three weeks. Pork, hams, and bacon may be cured in a similar way, but will require a double the quantity of a salting mixture, and if not smoked dried, this should be taken down from hanging after three or four weeks, and afterwards kept in boxes or tubs, amongst dry oat husks. Time, two or three weeks to remain in the brine, to be hung three weeks, seasonable at any time. Note, the meat may be boiled fresh from this pickle instead of smoking it. Beef ragout, cold meat cookery, 656 ingredients, about two pounds of cold roast beef, six onions, pepper, salt, and mixed spices to taste, half pint of boiling water, three tablespoons full of gravy. Mode, cut the beef into rather large pieces, and put them into a stew pan with the onions, which must be sliced. Season well with pepper, salt, and mixed spices, and pour over about half a pint of boiling water and gravy in the above proportion. Gravy saved in the meat answers the purpose. Let the whole stew very gently for about two hours, and serve with pickled walnuts, gherkins, or capers, just warmed in the gravy. Time, two hours, average cost, exclusive of the meat, four pent, seasonable at any time. Roast ribs of beef, 657 ingredients, beef, a little salt, mode. The four rib is considered the primest roasting piece, but the middle rib is considered the most economical. Let the meat be well hung, should the weather permit, and cut off the thin ends of the bones, which should be salted for a few days, and then boiled. Put the meat down to a nice clear fire, put some clean dripping into the pan, dredge the joint with a little flour, and keep continually basting the whole time. Sprinkle some fine salt over it. This must never be done until the joint is dished, as it draws the juices from the meat. Pour the dripping from the pan, put in a little boiling water, slightly salted, and strain the gravy over the meat. Garnish with tufts of scraped horseradish, and sent horseradish sauce to the table with it. Seed number 447. A Yorkshire pudding, sea puddings, sometimes accompanies this dish, and if lightly made and well cooked, will be found a very agreeable addition. Time, 10 pounds of beef, two and a half hours, 14 to 16 pounds. And three and a half to four hours. Average cost, eight and a half pence per pound. Sufficient, a joint of 10 pounds sufficient for eight or nine persons. Seasonable, at any time. A Miranda in Roasting. The management of the fire is a point of primary importance in roasting. A radiant fire throughout the operation is absolutely necessary to ensure a good result. When the article to be dressed is thin and delicate, the fire may be small, but when the joint is large, the fire must fill the grate. Meat must never be put down before a hollow or exhausted fire, which may soon want recruiting. On the other hand, if the heat of the fire becomes too fierce, must be removed to a considerable distance till it is somewhat abated. Some cooks always fail in their roasts, though they succeed in nearly everything else. A French writer on the culinary art says that anybody can learn how to cook, but one must be born a roaster. According to Leibig, beef or mutton cannot be said to be sufficiently roasted until it has acquired throughout the whole mass a temperature of 158 degrees. Lopultry may be well cooked when the inner part's hair attained a temperature from 130 degrees to 140 degrees. This depends on the greater amount of blood which beef and mutton contain. The colouring matter of blood not being coagulable under 158 degrees. Roast ribs of beef, boned and rolled. A very convenient joint for a small family. 658. Ingredients. One or two ribs of beef. Mode. Choose a fine rib of beef and have it cut according to the weight you require, either wide or narrow. Bone and roll the meat round, secure it with wooden skewers, and if necessary, bind it round with a piece of tape. Spit the beef firmly, or, if a bottle jack is used, put the joint on the hook, and place it near a nice clear fire. Let it remain so till the outside of the meat is set. When draw it to a distance, and keep continually basting until the meat is done, which can be ascertained by the steam from it drawing towards the fire. As this joint is solid, rather than a quarter hour, must be allowed for each pound. Remove the skewers, put in a plated or silver one, and send the joint to the table with gravy and the dish, and garnish with tops of horseradish. Horseradish sauce, number 447, is a great improvement to roast beef. Time. For ten pounds of the rolled ribs, three hours. As the joint is very solid, we have been allowed an extra half an hour. For six pounds, one and a half hour. Average cost? Eight and a half pence per pound. Sufficient? One joint of ten pounds for six or eight persons. Seasonable? All the year. Note, when the weight exceeds ten pounds, we would not advise the above method of boning and rolling. Only in the case of one or two ribs, when the joint cannot stand upright in the dish, and would look awkward. The bones should be put in with a few vegetables and herbs, and made into stock. Roast beef has long been a national dish in England. In most of our patriotic songs, it is contrasted with the fricasseed frogs, the popular is supposed to be the exclusive diet of Frenchmen. O, the roast beef of old England, and all the old English roast beef. This national chorus is appealed to, whenever a songwriter wishes to account for the valor displayed by Englishmen at sea or on land. Roast sirloin of beef, 659, ingredients, beef, a little salt, moat. As a joint cannot be well roasted without a good fire, see that it is well made up about three quarters of an hour before it is required, so that when the joint is put down, it is clear and bright. Choose a nice sirloin, the weight of which should not exceed 16 pounds, as the outside would be too much done, whilst the inside would not be done enough. Spit it or hook it on to the jack firmly, dredge it slightly with flour, and place it near the fire at first, as directed in the preceding recipe. Then draw it to a distance and keep continually basting until the meat is done. Sprinkle a small quantity of salt over it, empty the dripping pan of all the dripping, pour in some boiling water slightly salted, stir it about, and strain over the meat. Garnish with tass of horseradish, and send horseradish sauce and Yorkshire pudding to table with it. For carving, see page 317. Time a sirloin of 10 pounds, two and a half hours, 14 to 16 pounds, about four or four and a half hours. Average cost, eight and a half pence per pound. Sufficient a joint of 10 pounds for eight or nine persons. Seasonable at any time. The rump round. The rump round and other pieces of beef are roasted in the same manner, allowing for solid joints, a quarter hour to every pound. Note, the above is a usual method of roasting meat, but to have it in perfection and the juices kept in, the meat should at first be laid close to the fire, and when the outside is set in firm, drawn away to a good distance, and then left to roast very slowly, where economy is studied. This plan would not answer, as the meat requires to be at the fire, double the time of the ordinary way of cooking. Consequently, double the quantity of fuel would be consumed. Origin of the word sirloin. The loin of beef is said to have been knighted by King Charles II at Friday Hall, Chingford. The merry monarch returned to this hospitable mansion for epping forest literally as hungry as a hunter, and beheld with the delight a huge loin of beef, steaming upon the table. A noble joint, exclaimed the king, by Saint George it shall have a title. Then drawn on his sword, he reads it above the meat, and cried with mock dignity, loin, we dub thee knight. Henceforward, be sirloin. This ant note is doubtless apocryphal. Although the oak table upon which the joint was supposed to have received its knighthood, might have been seen by anyone who visited Friday Hill House a few years ago. It is perhaps a pity to spoil so noble a story, but the interests of truth demand that we declare that sirloin is probably a corruption of sirloin, where it signifies the ever part of the loin, the prefix sir being equivalent to over or above. In French we find this joint called sirlong, which so closely resembles our sirloin that we may safely refer the two words to a common origin. End of section 30. Recording by Jennifer Stearns, Concord, New Hampshire. Section 31 of the Book of Household Management. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Jennifer Stearns. The Book of Household Management by Isabella Beaton. Section 31. Recipes. Chapter 13. Part 4. To Salt Beef. 660. Ingredients. Half round of beef. Four ounces of sugar. One ounce of powdered salt, Peter. Two ounces of black pepper. A quarter pound of bay salt. Half pound of common salt. Mode. Rub the meat well with salt and let it remain for a day to disgorge and clear it from slime. The next day rub it well with the above ingredients on every side and let it remain in the pickle for about a fortnight, turning it every day. It may be boiled fresh from the pickle or smoked. Time. Half round of beef to remain in pickle about a fortnight. Average cost. Seven pence per pound. Seasonable at any time. Note. The H bone, flank, or brisket may be salted and pickled by any of the recipes we have given for salting beef, allowing less time for small joints to remain in the pickle. For instance, a joint of eight or nine pounds will be sufficiently salt in about a week. The Dutch way to salt beef. 661. Ingredients. Ten pounds of lean beef. One pound of treacle. One ounce of salt, Peter. One pound of common salt. Mode. Rub the beef well with the treacle and let it remain for three days. Turning and rubbing it often. Then wipe it. Pound the salt and salt, Peter. Very fine. Rub these well in and turn it every day for 10 days. Roll it up tightly in a coarse cloth and press it under a large weight. Have it smoked and turn it upside down every day. Boil it and on taking it out of the pot, put a heavy weight on it to press it. Time. 17 days. Seasonable at any time. Beef sausages. 662. Ingredients. To every pound of suet allow two pounds of lean beef. Seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and mixed spices. Mode. Clear the suet from skin and chop that and the beef as finely as possible. Season with pepper, salt, and spices and mix the whole well together. Make it into flat cakes and fry with a nice brown. Many persons pound the meat into mortar after it is chopped, but this is not necessary when the meat is minced finely. Time. 10 minutes. Average cost for this quantity. One shilling. 6 pence. Seasonable at any time. Beef steak. Rolled, roasted, and stuffed. 663. Ingredients. Two pounds of rump steak. Force meat number 417. Pepper and salt to taste. Clarified butter. Mode. Have the steaks cut rather thick for a well-hung rump of beef and sprinkle over them a seasoning of pepper and salt. Make a force meat by recipe number 417. Spread it over half of the steak, roll it up, bind and skewer it firmly, that the force meat may not escape. And roast it before a nice clear fire for about one and a half hour or rather longer should the roll be very large and thick. Keep it constantly based with butter and serve with brown gravy, some of which must be poured around the steak and the remainder sent to table in a terrine. Time. One and a half hour. Average cost. One shilling per pound. Sufficient for four persons. Seasonable all the year, but best in winter. Sliced and boiled beef. A pretty dish. Cold meat cookery. 664. Ingredients. A few slices of cold roast beef. Four or five potatoes. A thin batter. Pepper and salt to taste. Mode. Pair the potatoes as you appeal an apple. Fry the pairings in a thin batter, season with salt and pepper, until they are of a light brown color. And place them on a dish over some slices of beef, which should be nicely seasoned and broiled. Time. Five minutes to broil the meat. Seasonable at any time. Spiced beef to serve cold. 665. Ingredients. 14 pounds of the thick flank or rump of beef. Half pound of coarse sugar. One ounce of salt peter. Quarter pound pounded allspice. One pound of common salt. Mode. Rub the sugar well into the beef and let it lay for 12 hours. Then rub the salt peter and allspice, both of which should be pounded over the meat and let it remain for another 12 hours. Then rub in the salt. Turn daily in the liqueur for a fortnight. Soak it for a few hours in water. Dry with a cloth. Cover with a coarse paste. Put a little water at the bottom of the pan and bake in a moderate oven for four hours. If it is not covered with a paste, be careful to put the beef into a deep vessel and cover with a plate. Or it will be too crisp. During the time the meat is in the oven, it should be turned once or twice. Time. Four hours. Average cost. Seven pence per pound. Seasonable at any time. Baking meat. Baking exerts some unexplained influence on meat, rendering it less savory and less agreeable than meat which has been roasted. Those who have traveled in Germany and France, writes Mr. Lewis, one of our most popular scientific authors, must have repeatedly marveled at the singular uniformity in the flavor or want of flavor of the various roasts served up at the table to host. The general explanation is that the German and French meat is greatly inferior in quality to that of England and Holland. Owing to the inferiority of pastureage, and doubtless this is one cause, but it's not the chief cause. The meat is inferior, but the cooking is mainly at fault. The meat is scarcely ever roasted because there is no coal and firewood is expensive. The meat is therefore baked and the consequence of this baking is that no meat is eatable or eaten with its own gravy but is always accompanied by some sauce more or less beckoned. The Germans generally believe that in England we eat our beef and mutton almost raw, they shudder at our gravy as if it were so much blood. Steamed beef or rump steak, an entrée, 666 ingredients, about two pounds of beef or rump steak, three onions, two turnips, three carrots, two or three ounces of butter, half pint of water, one teaspoon full of salt, half ounce of pepper, one tablespoon of ketchup, one tablespoon of flour, mode. Half the steaks cut tolerably thick and rather lean. Divide them into convenient sized portions and fry them in the butter, a nice brown on both sides. Cleanse and pair the vegetables, cut the onions and carrots into thin slices, and the turnips into dice, and fry these in half pint of water, or rather more, should it be necessary. And simmer very gently for two and a half or three hours. When nearly done, skim well, add salt, pepper and ketchup in the above proportions, and thicken with a tablespoon full of flour mixed with two of cold water. Let it boil up for a minute or two after the thickening is added and serve. When a vegetable scoop is at hand, use it to cut the vegetables in fanciful shapes, and tomato, harby sauce, or walnut liqueur may be used to flavor the gravy. It is less rich if stewed the previous day, so that the fat may be taken off when cold. When wanted for table, it will merely require warming through. Time, three hours, average cost, one shilling per pound, sufficient for four or five persons, seasonable at any time. Stewed beef and celery sauce, cold meat cookery, 667, ingredients, three roots of celery, one pint of gravy, number 436, two onions sliced, two pounds of cold roast or boiled beef. Mone, cut the celery into two inch pieces, put them in a stew pan with the gravy and onions, simmer gently until the celery is tender, then add the beef cut into rather thick pieces. Stew gently for 10 minutes and serve with fried potatoes. Time, from 20 to 25 minutes to stew the celery. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, six pence, seasonable from September to January. Stewed beef with oysters, cold meat cookery, 668, ingredients, a few thick steaks of cold ribs or sirloin of beef, two ounces of butter, one onion salt sliced, pepper and salt to taste, half glass of port wine, a little flour to thicken, one or two dozen oysters rather more than a half pint of water. Mone, cut the steaks rather thick, from cold sirloin or ribs of beef, brown them lightly in a stew pan with the butter and a little water. Add half pint of water, the onion, pepper and salt and cover the stew pan closely. And let it simmer very gently for half an hour. Then mix about a teaspoon full of flour smoothly with a little of the liqueur. Add the port wine and oysters, the liqueur having been previously strained and put into the stew pan. Stir until the oysters plump and serve. It should not boil after the oysters are added or they will harden. Time, half an hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, one shilling four pence, seasonable from September to April. Stewed brisket of beef, 669, ingredients, seven pounds of a brisket of beef, vinegar and salt, six carrots, six turnips, six small onions, one blade of pounded mace, two whole alspice pounded, thickening of butter and flour, two tablespoon fulls of ketchup, stock or water. Load. About an hour before dressing it, rub the meat over with vinegar and salt. Put it into a stew pan with sufficient stock to cover it. When this is not at hand, water may be substituted for it. And be particular that the stew pan is not much larger than the meat. Skim well and when it has simmered very gently for one hour, put in the vegetables and continue simmering until the meat is perfectly tender. Drain out the bones, dish the meat and garnish either with tufts of cauliflower or raised cabbage cut in quarters. Thicken as much gravy as required with a little butter and flour. Add spices and ketchup in the above proportion. Give one boil, pour some of it over the meat and the remainder send in a terrine. Time, rather more than three hours. Average cost, seven pence per pound. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Seasonable at any time. Note, the remainder of the liqueur in which the beef was boiled may be served as a soup or it may be sent to table with the meat in a terrine. Stewed rump of beef. 670 ingredients. Half rump of beef. Sufficient stock to cover it. Number 105. Four tablespoon fulls of vinegar. Two tablespoon fulls of ketchup.  Two onions. 12 cloves. Pepper and salt to taste. Thickening of butter and flour. One glass of port wine. Mode. Cut out the bone, sprinkle the meat with a little cayenne. This must be sparingly used. And bind and tie it firmly up with tape. Put it into a stew pan with sufficient stock to cover it and add vinegar, ketchup, herbs, onions, cloves, and seasoning in the above proportion. And simmer very gently for four or five hours or until the meat is perfectly tender, which may be ascertained by piercing it with a thin skewer. When done, remove the tape. Lay it into a deep dish, which keep hot. Strain and skim the gravy. Thicken it with butter and flour. Add a glass of port wine and any flavoring to make the gravy rich and palatable. Let it boil up. Pour over the meat and serve. This dish may be very much enriched by garnishing with force meat balls or filling up the space once the bone is taken with a good force meat. Slice carrots, turnips, and onions boiled with the meat are also a great improvement and where expense is not objected to it may be glazed. This, however, is not necessary where a good gravy is poured round and over the meat. Time? Half-rump stewed gently from four to five hours. Past? Ten pence per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Seasonable at any time. Note. A stock or gravy in which to boil the meat may be made of the bone and trimmings by boiling them with water and adding carrots, onions, turnips, and a bunch of sweet herbs. To make this dish richer and more savory, half-rose the rump and afterwards stew it in strong stock and a little madera. This is an expensive method and is not, after all, much better than a plain or dressed joint. The Baron of Beef. This noble joint, which consisted of two sirloins not cut asunder, was a favorite dish of our ancestors. It is rarely seen nowadays, indeed, it seems out of place on a modern table as it requires the grim boar's head and Christmas pie as supporters. Sir Walter Scott has described a feast at which the Baron of Beef would have appeared to great advantage. We will quote a few lines to remind us of those days when England was merry England and when hospitality was thought to be the highest virtue. The fire, with well-dried logs supplied, went roaring up the chimney wide. The huge, all-table spoken face scrubbed till it shone the day to grace. Bore then upon its massive board no mark depart the squire and lord. Then was brought in the lusty brawn by old blue-coated serving man. Then the grim boar's head frowned on high, crested with bays and rosemary. What can the green-garbed ranger tell, how, when, and where the monster fell? What dogs before his death he tore, and all the baiting of the boar? While round the merry wassel-bowl, garnished with ribbons blithe the troll, there the huge sirloin reeked hard by, plumb horrid stood in Christmas pie, nor failed old Scotland to produce at such high tide her savoury goose. When a lord's son came of age, in the olden time, the bearing of beef was too small adjoined by many degrees to satisfy the retainers who would flock to the hall. A whole ox was therefore generally roasted over a fire, built up of huge logs. We may hear mention that an ox would roast it entire on the frozen Thames, in the early part of the present century. stewed shin of beef 671 ingredients a shin of beef, one head of celery, one onion, a faggot of savoury herbs, half teaspoon full of allspice, half teaspoon full of whole black pepper, four carrots, 12 buttoned onions, two turnips, thickening of butter and flour, three tablespoon fulls of mushroom ketchup, two tablespoon fulls of port wine, pepper and salt to taste, mode. Half the bone sawn into four or five pieces, cover with hot water, bring it to a boil, and remove any scum that may rise to the surface. Put in the celery, onion, herbs, spice and seasoning, and simmer very gently until the meat is tender. Feel the vegetables, cut them into any fancy shape may dictate, and boil them with the onions until tender. Lift out the beef, put it on a dish, which keeps hot, and thicken with butter and flour as much as will occur, as will be wanted for gravy. Keep stirring till it boils, then strain and skim. Put the gravy back in the stew pan, add the seasoning, port wine and ketchup. Give one boil, and pour it over the beef, garnish with boiled carrots, turnips and onions. Time. The meat will be stewed about four hours, average cost, four pence per pound with bone, sufficient for seven or eight persons, seasonable at any time, toad in the hole, a homely but savory dish. 672. Ingredients. One and a half pounds of rump steak, one sheep's kidney, pepper and salt to taste. For the batter, three eggs, one pint of milk, four tablespoons of flour, half a teaspoon full of salt. Mode. Cut up the steak and kidney into convenient size pieces, and put them into a pie dish, with a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Mix the flour with a small quantity of milk at first, to prevent it from being lumpy. Add the remainder, and the three eggs, which should be well beaten. Put in the salt, stir the batter for about five minutes, and pour it over the steak. Place it in a tolerably brisk oven immediately, and bake for one and a half hour. Time. One and a half hour. Average cost, one shilling nine pence, sufficient for four or five persons, seasonable at any time. Note, the remains of cold beef, rather underdone, may be substituted for the steak, and when liked, the smallest possible quantity of minced onion or shallot may be added. Boiled tongue, 673. Ingredients.  Mode. In choosing a tongue, ascertain how long it has been dried or pickled, and select one with a smooth skin, which denotes it's being young and tender. If a dried one, and rather hard, soak it at least for 12 hours, previous to cooking it. If, however, it is fresh from the pickle, two or three hours will be sufficient for it to remain in stock.  Let it gradually come to a boil, skim well, and simmer very gently until tender. Peel off the skin, garnish with tufts of cauliflower or brussel sprouts, and serve. Boiled tongue is frequently sent to table with boiled poultry, instead of ham, and is, by many persons, preferred. If to serve cold, peel it, fasten it down to a piece of board, by sticking a fork through the root, and another through the top, to straighten it. When cold, glaze it, and put a paper roosh around the root, and garnish with tufts of parsley.  Average cost for a moderate-sized tongue, three shillings, six pence, seasonable at any time. To cure tongues, one, six hundred seventy-four, ingredients. For a tongue of seven pounds, one ounce of salt, Peter, half ounce of black pepper, four ounces of sugar, three ounces of juniper berries, six ounces of salt. Load. Rub the above ingredients well into the tongue, and let it remain in the pickle for ten days, or a fortnight. Then drain it, tie it up in brown paper, and have it smoked for about twenty days over a wood fire, or it may be boiled out of this pickle. Time. From ten to fourteen days to remain in the pickle, to be smoked twenty-four days. Average cost for a medium-sized uncured tongue, two shillings, six pence, seasonable at any time. Note, if not wanted immediately, the tongue will keep three or four weeks without being too salt. Then it must not be rubbed, but only turned in the pickle. Two, six hundred seventy-five, ingredients. Nine pounds of salt, four ounces of sugar, nine ounces of powdered salt, Peter. Load. Rub the above ingredients well into the tongues, and keep them in this curing mixture for two months, turning them every day. Drain them for the pickle, cover with brown paper, and have them smoked for about three weeks. Time. The tongues to remain in the pickle two months, to be smoked three weeks. Sufficient? The above quantity of brine, sufficient for twelve tongues, of five pounds each. Seasonable at any time. Illustration. Beef tongue. The tongues of animals. The tongue, whether in the ox or in man, is the seat of the sense of taste, this sense warns the animal against swallowing deuterious substances. Dr. Carpenter says that, among the lower animals, the instinctive perceptions connected with the sense are much more remarkable than our own. Thus, an omnivorous monkey will sell them touch fruits of a poisonous character, although their taste may be agreeable. However this may be, man's instinct has decided that ox tongue is better than horse tongue. Nevertheless, the latter is frequently substituted by dishonest dealers for the former. The horse's tongue may be rarely distinguished by a spoon-like expansion of its end. To pickle and dress a tongue to eat cold, 676. Ingredients. Six ounces of salt, two ounces of bay salt, one ounce of salt peater, three ounces of coarse sugar, cloves, mace, and allspice to taste. Butter, come and crust a flower in water. Mode. Lay the tongue for a fortnight in the above pickle, turn it every day, and be particular that the spices are well pounded. Put it into a small pan, just large enough to hold it, place some pieces of butter on it, and cover with a common crust. Bake in a slow oven until so tender that a straw would penetrate it. Take off the skin, fasten it down to a piece of board by running a fork through the root and another through the tip, and at the same time straightening it and putting it into shape. When cold, glaze it, put a paper roosh around the root, which is generally very unsightly, and garnish with tufts of parsley. Time. For three or four hours in a slow oven, according to size. Average costs for a medium-sized uncured tongue, two shilling six pence. Seasonable at any time. To dress, tripe. 677. Ingredients. Tripe, onion sauce, number 484. Milk and water. Load. Assertain that the tripe is quite fresh, and have it cleaned and dressed. Cut away that the course is fat, and boil it in equal proportions of milk and water for a quarter hour. Should the tripe be entirely undressed, more than double that time should be allowed for it. Have ready some onion sauce made by recipe number 454. Dish the tripe, and smother it with the sauce, and the remainder send to table in a terrine. Time. One hour. For undressed tripe from two and a half to three hours. Average costs six pence per pound. Seasonable at any time. Note. Tripe may be dressed in a variety of ways. They may be cut into pieces and fried in batter, stewed in gravy with mushrooms, or cut into collops, sprinkle with minced onions and savory herbs, and fried a nice brown cut in clarified butter. Beef carving. H bone of beef. A boiled H bone of beef is not a difficult joint to carve, as will be seen on reference to the accompanying engraving. By following with the knife the direction of the line from one to two. Nice slices will be easily cut. It may be necessary, as in a round of beef, to cut a thick slice off the outside before commencing to serve. Brisketed beef. There is but little description necessary to add to show the carving of a boiled brisketed beef beyond the engraving here inserted. The only point to be observed is that the joint should be cut evenly and firmly quite across the bones, so that on its reappearance at table it should not have a jagged and untidy look. Rooms of beef. This dish resembles the sirloin except that it has no filet or undercut. As explained in the recipes, the end piece is often cut off, salted and boiled. The bone of carving is similar to that of the sirloin vis-a-vis in the direction of the dotted line from one to two. This joint will be more easily cut if the plan be pursued which is suggested in carving the sirloin, namely the inserting of the knife immediately between the bone and the moat before commencing to cut it into slices. All joints of roast beef should be cut in even and thin slices. Horse radish, finely scraped, may be served as a garnish, but horse radish sauce is preferable for eating with the beef. Sirloin of beef. This dish is served differently at various tables, some preferring it to come to table with the filet or, as it is usually called, the undercut uppermost. The reverse way, as shown in the cut, is that most usually adopted. Still, the undercut is best eaten when hot. Consequently, the carver himself may raise the joint and cut some slices from the underside in the direction of from one to two, as the filet is very much preferred by some eaters. The upper part of the sirloin should be cut in the direction of the line from five to six and carry should be taken to carve evenly and in thin slices. It will be found a great assistance in carving this joint well if the knife be first inserted just above the bone at the bottom and runs sharply along between the bone and meat, and also to divide the meat from the bone in the same way at the side of the joint. The slices will then come away more readily. Some carvers cut the upper side of the sirloin across as shown by the line from three to four, but this is a wasteful plan and one not to be recommended. With the sirloin, very finely scraped horse radish is usually served and a little given would like to each guest. Horse radish sauce is preferable, however, for serving on the plate, although the scraped horse radish may still be used as a garnish. A round of beef. A round of beef is not so easily carved as many other joints of beef, and to manage it properly, a thin bladed and very sharp knife is necessary. Off the outside of the joint at its top, a thick slice should first be cut so as to leave the surface smooth. Then thin and even slices should be cleverly carved in the direction of the line one to two. And with each slice of the lean, a delicate morsel of the fat should be served. Beef tongue, passing the knife down in the direction of from one to two, but not too thin slice should be helped. Now the carving of a tongue may be continued in this way until the best portions of the upper side are served. The fat which lies about the root of the tongue can be served by turning the tongue and cutting in the direction of from three to four. End of section 31, recording by Jennifer Stearns, Concord, New Hampshire.