Welcome to World of Right, guys. I'm Let's Fly RC, and today we're going to show you how to build Baby Shark. Baby Shark is a lightweight FPV frame that's great for indoor and outdoor flying. The best thing about it is that it's HD. When I designed Baby Shark and I flew around in my house, I had a whole new love for flying micros again. And I think you guys will enjoy it yourself. The parts we're going to use today are a carbon fiber reinforcement plate, a TPU pod, a plastic frame, four DAB motors, an FR Sky receiver, beta FPV flight controller and ESC stack. The Runcam Nano HD will be using the Sharkbite Digital FPV VTX, a Lollipop UFL antenna, special screws, straps, zip ties. We got all the tools ready to go. Let's get started. Don't lose that guy. That's a very important piece. This is a battery pad that keeps the battery from sliding around. The screws that come with the motors are just a little bit too long. So we've got special screws to fit this frame that are exactly five millimeters long. You definitely want to use these screws and not the ones that come with the motors. Shiny motors. All right. So the first step would be to get the flight controller mounted to the body and the motors soldered to the flight controllers. One way would be to direct solder to the board, which means you'd have to take off these connectors. And that's the way I'm going to be doing it today. The second way to do it would be to buy the crimping tool and the proper crimping connectors to put onto this to plug it into the actual flight controller. The way I'm going to be doing it today is I'm going to be taking off these connectors and direct soldering to the board. It's a more permanent connection and less subject to getting broken or falling off in flight. The future's on here. So it turns out that the soldering you're about to see in this video is really hard to do even for me. So we came up with a better solution in case you don't have insanely great soldering skills. This is way easier to do. So originally I decided to snip off the connectors on the beta board that we were using for these builds. And that not only voids the warranty, but also makes it very difficult to solder to the board. It's very tiny, tiny solder joints. It's really hard to do even for me. So one of the things that I decided to do was to order some of these JSTSH pigtails. And these are designed to plug right into the board. And we can use these pigtails with our hype train dab motors. And what we're going to do is I'm going to show you how to chop off the leads, solder them to the right length, and then we can just plug it right into the board. It's going to make the build process so much simpler, so much easier. There was actually three different methods that I used when I built these. One of them was to solder directly to the board. One of them was to try to crimp my own connections in these little connectors. And this way we're going to actually snip off the leads from the motor and reattach this pigtail to the motor. I think this is going to be the easiest method for people to be successful with. So I'm just stripping off about four millimeters worth of wire and that is going to be soldered to this pigtail. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to tend these three pieces of wire. I'm going to go ahead and tend the wires that are already factory tend because they use lead free solder over in China. We're going to go ahead and re-tend these with our leaded rosin core solder because it just joins a lot easier to our leaded solder we're going to be using for this connector here as well. So before we do that we actually need to take a piece of heat shrink for each wire and run it up the wire so we don't forget. So let's just go ahead and put our heat shrink on the wire right now. So we're going to put a little small piece of heat shrink on each of these three wires. All right so I'm using 6040 leaded rosin core solder for this. Works really well. It's very easy to use and you can get a really nice clean strong solder joint with this solder. So try to find either 6040 or 3763 solder with the rosin core and leaded for this project. If you're only doing a small amount of builds then the lead is not really going to be an issue on your health. If we're just doing one quadcopter here shouldn't be a problem. We're going to tend these three connections and just join them together. I want to make sure I hold the heat shrink away so it doesn't get heated up and melted right away. Go ahead and touch these. If your solder joint doesn't look the best you can just desolder it, re-tend the two leads and try again and get it looking really nice and clean before you put it all together. All right so now we've got our three wires soldered. We can go ahead and slide the heat shrink down and heat it up. Make sure that it lines up properly with the solder joint that you created. Once you have your heat shrink centered on the solder joint that you created you can go ahead and hit it with a heat gun or a lighter or something similar. All you have to do is repeat this process three more times and you'll be ready to mount these motors to the frame and to plug these right into the flight control board and we won't have to worry about soldering to the board. It's going to be so much easier to do and it's going to make the build so much faster for you guys. Once you have your motors pigtailed up all we're going to do is slide the pigtail right through the slot here. Go ahead and put our motor into its position and then once we have that in position we can flip the board over and we can plug it in to its port.  Let's get back to the build video. All right so we're going to take the gummies out of the bag. The beta FPV flight controller comes with all the screws, gummies and wiring that you're going to need for this build. Try not to lose any of them. They give you a couple of extras but we might need every piece to build this. These gummies get installed into the flight control board and this is very fragile so you have to be extremely careful when putting these gummies into this flight control board that you don't break off the outer tip. The first one I built I broke the outer tip off of one of them because I wasn't being careful enough so you just have to kind of get it in there.  I like to use the 1.5 mil hex tool when I'm putting these in because it's not sharp it's a little blunt and it helps to push the gummy in. Like I said you have to be very careful not to break the circuit board when you're doing it. It's not the end of the world if you do. It's just a little bit more durable and holds itself in place better if you don't break it. We're going to repeat the same process for the other three holes. Be careful not to rip the gummies they give you an extra one just in case. The easiest way I've found to direct solder these is to cut these plastic connectors off.  You don't want to take off any of these little circuits off of the board you got to be really careful not to damage anything when you're doing it but just a little bit careful you can just kind of lift them off. The easiest way to remove these pins is to attach a heavy tool like a hemostat to them. You want to lock onto one of these at a time and then solder from the other side so that gravity will make it fall to the ground. So now that I have the hemostat attached I'm going to take the soldering iron with a tiny bit of solder on there and just add some heat to that pad wiggle it back and forth a little bit until the pin falls out. Okay so I'm just going to add a little bit of fresh solder wiggle it back and forth and it falls right out. So now we've got to do that 11 more times. All right so that's hemostat number two add a little bit of solder to the tip and just touch the one pad wiggle back and forth and it falls right out. You need to be very careful with these pads because if you apply too much heat or touch them for too long of a period of time they will come right off the board so as you're doing this as you're trying to clean them up just be very careful not to touch them for too long or apply too much heat to them so make sure your soldering iron isn't set too hot. I made sure that I put some fresh solder on them and I separated them from each other so that the solder is not touching one pad to the next. When doing this you want to use like pretty much the smallest soldering iron tip that you have available. It's a very tedious build. Little micros are always the hardest. A good way to remove a little bit of extra solder if there's too much on there is to just keep cleaning the tip of your soldering iron and bringing it back and it has a tendency to collect the solder for you. When you're finished you want to make sure that all six pads on both sides are not touching each other on both sides of the board. You want to make sure that none of the pads are touching each other and there's plenty of gap in between each pad. All 12 pins have been removed now. I'm just going to apply a little bit of fresh solder to them so that they are shiny and we try to we're going to try to flood them with a little bit of extra solder to remove all of the solder from the manufacturer and replace it with solder with the built-in flux. I'm using Hester rosin based solder with built-in flux. Right now we're using 6040 solder. I typically use 7337 solder. Either one works fine as long as it's got the rosin core with the built-in flux. You want to get your solder to look beautiful like that. Nice and shiny, little ball of solder left on the pad and that's perfect for attaching the new motor. So the next thing I'm going to do is I'm going to go ahead and mount all four of the motors to the frame and then I'm going to put the flight controller in position. This slot right here is made for an LED license plate. So that's how you know where the rear of the frame is. If you keep that in mind throughout the rest of the build it'll make it easier to remember where everything goes. So this is the front that's the back. We're going to go ahead and just start putting the motors in. So as I'm putting the motors in I'm going to take this carbon fiber plate and place it on the bottom, put the screws through the carbon fiber plate through the plastic and into the motor. To get the exact right screw size we've included these five millimeter M2 screws which are exactly the right length to go through the carbon, the plastic, into the motor without affecting the windings. Whenever you're installing a motor you need to make sure that the screw doesn't protrude past the metal and into the windings of the motor or you could damage a motor by going into the wire windings of the motor. This one has serial number 0010. They're actually serial numbered and everything. We're putting in number 10 using a 1.5 millimeter rotor riot hex tool to put the screws in. When putting these screws in it's always a good idea to use a little bit of Loctite just to keep them from falling back out in the future. There's a lot of vibration that goes on in these little drones and the vibration tends to back out these screws and if you lose these screws you're probably not going to find them again. Depending on the tolerance of the carbon it might be a little tight and you may have to use a little bit of screwing force to get it through the carbon fiber panel. So don't tighten the first screw all the way down right away.  That makes it easier to line the other holes up. Just a little bit snug but not completely tight. Leave a little bit of a gap there until you get all four screws in and then once you get all four screws in you can tighten it down all the way. Don't go crazy. Don't need that much force. I'm going to tighten them in a crisscross pattern going back and forth in this crisscross pattern as I tighten them and just kind of make sure they're all snug. There's not a special torque spec but tighten it down until right before you think you're going to rip the threads out and stop. I'm just going to route this wire down and towards the left and right sides of the frame. So all of these motor wires are going to either be on the left side or the right side of the frame not the front or the back. So the back here we got the back here got the front here we're going to route these wires up and through the side of the frame like this and we're going to repeat this process three more times. All right so the next step in this process is to solder the motors to the flight controller. We've got the wires routed to the sides. Remember this is the back and this is the front of the frame so the wires are routed to the side and up through this center cavity here on either side left and right. We pretty much want to keep all the wires the same length. We're just going to kind of tuck them under the flight controller when we're done. If you cut them any shorter it's going to be really hard to solder this board. I'm actually using this helping hands set up here to hold the frame in an orientation that makes it easier for me to solder to the board.  These four gummies are going to line up to these four holes that are sticking up and we're not going to press it down right now but that's how it's going to end up being when we're done. This little tiny arrow right here is pointing forward and that is the orientation we want the board to end up in when we're finished. As you can see the motor pads are off to the side here on both sides so that's why we ran the wires up the side here on the left and the right because we're going to be attaching it to the bottom of the board. All right so the trickiest part about this is trying to keep track of which wire goes where. As far as the three wires on the motor goes it doesn't necessarily matter which one you attach it to because in the in BL Helley in the future we're going to be able to reverse the motor direction through software so getting the three motor wires exactly in position middle left right isn't that important but it is important that you get motor one attached to motor one on the board, motor two attached to motor two on the board. Just basically line them up with the position that they're sitting on the board. This is going to be motor one, this is going to be motor two, this is going to be motor three and this will be motor four so you just want to make sure you attach the motors to the proper pads. We're going to attach these wires to the bottom of the flight control board rather than the top because there's not a whole lot of room to get the wires up and over to the top. I mean I guess you could but when you put all these wires in there and you put the pod on top it gets a little bit tight and congested. So I'm going to get the helping hand set up to position this flight controller in this orientation so that I can attach all the wires I need to the board. Hold them like that. Take this guy. Hold my flight control board and I don't want to cover my solder points. Here we go. All right now I've got it lined up. I'm going to take my rotor right at tweezers and I'm going to attach these wires to their solder points but before I do that I want to trim off about half of the metal that's already pre-tinned from the factory because you want to have a very very small amount of wire left over on the end before you solder it to the pad. We want them to be as short as possible so that they don't end up touching each other because they are so close together. The whole point of this build is to keep it as light as possible. We have another whoop style frame that uses the DJI setup and the DJI setup so heavy that it's not as nimble and free flowing as this frame. This frame flies so much better because of its lightweight so in order to keep it light we did a lot of extra stuff to keep it light. Using the Sharkbite system was key in keeping this frame super light because the Sharkbite system is the size of a tiny whoop board. Super lightweight. Tend up all these wires that I've already cut them just a little bit short. Tend them all up. You want to pre-tend all these wires to try to get some of that factory lead free solder off of them and put some of the leaded rosin core solder on. If you tin your wires and tin your pads they'll go together really easily. If you don't pre-tend them then you're going to have a little bit of a trouble trying to get the solder joints to look good when you're done. You can see all the bubbles. That's all the rosin core flux that's in. This solder has a ton of flux in it which makes it really easy to solder with but it's a little bit messy at the same time. I like to try to start with the one that's hardest to get to first like the center ones first and then move my way out to the outer edges. This is really hard to do. There we go. One down, 11 to go. Ideally you want to use an even smaller soldering tip than what I'm using because this one's kind of big. It's got to inspect it really good. Make sure that nothing is touching and it looks good. Everything looks good on those three. So move on to the next three. It'll be pretty much impossible without these tweezers. All right we're halfway there. This is the hardest part. Everything else in this build is pretty much easy but this is the hardest part of the whole build. It's soldering these guys on. I want to make sure that you have the right three wires going to the right quadrant on the board. See you don't want to do what I did because I've got one wire from this motor going to this quadrant two wires from this motor going to that quadrant and yeah so I got to now move around a couple wires. Make sure you're paying attention to which motor is up to which quadrant. When you're doing it you have to go back and do more work. Let's try not to mess up this time. So they don't get them mixed up. I'm going to take the three wires from each side and just kind of bend them over the plastic frame just so that they're tucked out of the way and that way when I'm working on this one I only have these three wires exposed and that'll keep me from screwing up. Oh yeah that was the right angle right there. If you mess up on your joint it's always a good idea to go back and retain both connectors with fresh solder because the flux gets used up and then if you try a second time it's really hard to get the two to bond together without the flux. Boom we'll see how nice and clean that went. All right we got all 12 wires attached. I'm just inspecting them to make sure that none of the wires are touching each other and that they all kind of have an upward direction to them because when we flip this over we want them to all point down. So now that I've got all the wires in the right position I'm going to flip the board over and push it back down onto the board. But before I actually push it down onto the board I want to go ahead and prepare the receiver which is going to get mounted underneath this board. I'm bending these wires so that they are kind of straight. Be very careful not to bend them too hard because you might break the solder pad off the board but we do want them to be kind of straight so that they're facing downward because we need to push them down into the frame and they need to be pointing in a downward direction. I'm just going to pull the wiring down through as I push this board in. Make sure my XT60 is going through the right place and I'm just test fitting right now to make sure that everything is going to fit properly before I install the receiver. Okay yeah that's fine I don't have to do any other adjustments so I'm just going to line up these gummies to their holes and see if I can press it down into position and I can. So that means that I did a good job on all the wiring. When I'm done I'll just take all this excess wiring and tuck it inside the hole there and it's going to have its own little place in there it'll be totally fine. There's no need to worry about the excess wire. The excess wire will give you the ability to service this in the future if you ever need to open it up for any reason. Not having that excess wire there is going to make it impossible to pull the board up if you ever had to get to the underside of that board. So right now I'm just going to go ahead and pop the board back up and I'm going to install the receiver where it needs to be underneath the board before I snap it down into place. The beta FPV board comes with two plugs. It comes with a four pin plug for the receiver and a six pin plug that's normally used for the DJI receiver but we're going to end up using this for our Sharkbite system instead. So this six pin connector will be used for the Sharkbite system. This four pin connector will be used for our receiver and the receiver we're using today is the RxSR from FR Sky. We're going to want to connect the cable that came with the RxSR to the connector that came with the beta FPV flight controller. Now you could just take these two connectors and solder and heat shrink them together but that's a little bit messy. So I'm going to do it a little bit differently than that. I'm actually going to cut this connector off and solder directly to the board with the beta FPV cable that came with the beta FPV flight controller. We're only going to need three of these wires. We're going to need five volts ground and the s-bus wire. The fourth wire we're just going to take off. On this particular cable we're going to use red, black, and white and we're going to take off the yellow lead. We don't need that lead. We only need power ground and receive. The easiest way to remove these pins is to take a razor blade and lift up on the white tab and pull out the wire. So we've got the tab lifted up, pull the wire out. You can also use an XM plus with this as well. On some of the other builds I used an XM plus receiver instead of the RxSR receiver. You could probably even use a spectrum receiver in here just fine and you would wire it a little bit differently but you're still going to use the three wires power ground and receive. We're going to take this white connector off in a similar fashion to what we did on the other board but I'm going to be a little bit more destructive with this one and just kind of cut it off of there because these pins don't come, this white connector doesn't come off as easy as it did on the flight controller. So I'm just going to be a little destructive and taking these pins off of there without damaging the board. If you have some nice angled cutters like this it makes it pretty easy to take them off. I'm going to keep all three of these wires the same length that they came with the beta FPV board and just tin them up and prepare them to connect to the receiver. So we need voltage ground and s-bus out on this receiver, the outermost pin is ground, the second pin in is five volts and the fourth pin in is the s-bus out. We want to use those three connections when hooking to the RxSR. All right so this is the outermost pad right here and just put a little solder on these. These are kind of tiny too, a little bit hard to work with just like the flight control board. I'm going to kind of add some solder to them and tin them up. We need to get all that lead free solder off the pads so that we can kind of flood it with the leaded solder that we have because it works a little better. You can see all that flux on there. I'm adding leaded solder to this board because the lead free solder that comes from the manufacturer doesn't solder well. And I just kind of flooded them with a little bit too much solder and then wiped off the XS so that I can have a nice shiny connection. And if you really want to make it nice you can clean it with alcohol and get all that ugly yellow flux off of there before you continue because it's hard to see but I actually have all five pads cleaned up at this point. All right so I'm going to go ahead and attach ground to the outermost pad. Actually I'm going to do red first because the outermost pad is one of the easiest ones to solder to.  There we go. Got my power. I'm going to get my ground. And then the fourth pin in is going to be our S-Bus pad. So this white wire is going to go to the fourth pad in. All right we got our three wires connected to the receiver. I'm going to add some heat shrink to the receiver to keep everything protected and then we can plug it into the board and close everything up. Ideally you want to take some alcohol and a paint brush and just kind of clean off the XS flux that's left over when you're done. I'm using some solder that has a ton of flux in it and it just makes a mess. It's not really going to hurt anything but it just doesn't look clean. All right so I'm going to trim my heat shrink down to about the right size. I don't need quite that much heat shrink. Okay put this on there. Heat shrink it up. When you use clear heat shrink on these because you have to be able to access the bind button. It's really small. Heat shrink is almost not small enough. All right so now we've got this connector attached to our R-XSR receiver. This is the bind button. We're going to make sure that this bind button is accessible for when we have to bind up our receiver in the future. So we're going to go ahead and insert this into the frame and this four pin connector this plug plugs in right there on the beta FPV flight controller. It's a little bit challenging to get in there with this gummy in the way and you definitely want to do it before you put the screw in. If you're really careful you can strategically squeeze it in there and keep the gummy from getting crushed by it. But it takes a little bit of effort. I usually squeeze the gummy out of the way. I get my finger in there just right and I pull the connector out of the way. There we go and now the gummy is outside of that port. Kind of pull the wires up and out of the way because we're going to have to put a screw into this gummy in the future. So make sure that connector is pushed all the way in and that these wires are just kind of pulled up and out of the way so when we put the screw in later they won't be in the way. I'm going to route this cable down beside the flight control board and underneath the frame. I want to position it to where the antennas come out the front of the frame and wrap around the ducts. So this is the front of the frame and I want my wires to come out that direction like that. Let's slide this down get the wires coming out the front like that and I'm going to flip it over to where the bind button is facing the bottom of the drone so that we can access it in the future when we go to bind this up. I'm going to push it back far enough towards the rear of the drone that the bind button sticks out just a little bit. It doesn't need to be mounted in there it can just kind of be hanging free but I'm going to push it back just enough to where on the back side you're able to pull it out just enough to access the bind button right there. So that's about the position that I want this to be sitting in. When I tape these wires to the body itself I want this to be accessible. I need enough length on the wire for that to happen then I can push it back in when I'm done. So now once we have this where we want it to be I'm going to take some electrical tape and I'm going to tape these wires from the receiver in this orientation around the outside of the frame. All right so I'm going to take a little bit of electrical tape just about one inch pieces should be sufficient. Make sure my receiver is where I want it. Stick the electrical tape around the frame here we go. I'm just going to kind of wrap the antenna in the electrical tape around the frame like this trying to keep it as tight as possible as I'm wrapping the tape so that the inside of the tape doesn't have anything sticking out for the prop to strike. I'll put three more pieces one piece here one piece there and one piece there just to keep the antennas from getting chopped up by the props. I know it's kind of silly to be picky about electrical tape but the electrical tape I like to use is the 3M Super 33 Plus. This is the best electrical tape to use because it's extremely sticky and it's very flexible. It's easy it's stretchy other electrical tapes will probably let go because the glue that they use just isn't good enough to hold on for long periods of time. So if you're going to get picky about electrical tape the best electrical tape to use is the 3M Super 33. I got this at Home Depot but as I'm putting it on I'm stretching the tape as I'm pulling it around and that keeps the glue nice and tight so that it doesn't unravel when I'm flying and take out my props. All right so so far we got the receiver mounted in there. I've got enough slack to where I can pull it back and access the bind button out the back side so I can bind up in the future. It just kind of tucks its way underneath there. I've got my cables routed around the side of the flight controller here. All right so I got all the wires in place. I got the receiver mounted. I'm going to go ahead and push the flight controller down into position. All right so you just want to push these gummies down over those four plastic posts and we're going to put the four screws into those posts to hold the flight controller down. On the bottom side I'm just going to take these wires and tuck them in to the hole underneath the frame so that none of the wires will get struck by the propellers and everything just fits in there just perfectly. Enough room for everything to be there. There's also enough room for the battery strap as well when we're finished with the build. All right so we're going to flip it back over and put the four screws in. Now the beta FPV flight controller came with all of these screws and we're going to use almost all of them for this build. There are long screws and short screws. For the flight controller we want to find the five short screws. We're only going to use four of them but there's five long screws and five short screws that come with the beta FPV flight controller. We want the four short screws to mount the flight controller. It really helps if you have a magnetic screwdriver to do this because they're so small that they're hard to put on. You can magnetize your phillips head screwdriver just by touching it to a magnet. So this is the hardest one to do so we'll do it first. We've got to put the screw in without letting the screw damage the wire on the way down. So keep a very close eye on the power wires as you screw in this screw. Make sure that it doesn't damage the coating on the wire or the wire itself. And then the other three screws are fairly simple to put on. The hard part's done. The rest of it's fairly easy. So this is a Sharkbite HD video transmitter and that's the next step in this build. We're going to take the six pin connector that came with the beta FPV flight controller and we're going to install that. We're going to attach four of the wires to these four pads on the Sharkbite video transmitter. On this video transmitter we've got ground power receive and transmit and we want to hook four of the wires from the six pin connector that came with the beta FPV flight controller to these four pads. From this six pin harness we're going to use the first four pins red black yellow and white. We're going to position them on this board as black red yellow white in that order and we're going to take off the remaining two wires at the end of this harness because we're not going to use those. I'm going to go back to our little trusty razor blade here. We're going to lift up the two white tabs on the outer edge of this connector and we're going to remove the yellow and the black. So remove the yellow and the black. We're left with red black yellow and white. So we're going to keep all this length just how it is and we're going to tend these four ends and we're going to tend these four pads on the video transmitter and we're going to connect it up. So the hardest one to get to is the one closest to the Molex plug. So I'm going to do the white one first then I'm going to do the yellow one and so on and so forth. We got yellow and red and black. There we go. All right. Cool. We're going to take this video transmitter and we're going to simply just plug it into this port right here. Make sure it goes all the way in seated properly. This video transmitter needs an antenna and the antenna that we're going to end up using on this build is the lollipop micro with a UFL connector on it because it's really small and lightweight and it fits the build really well. The camera and cable come together with the Sharkbite system and the camera and the cable need to be hooked to this video transmitter also prior to putting it all together because there are two holes in this video transmitter right here and here that are designed to have a zip tie in place to keep the antenna and the camera cable in place so that they don't pop loose and come disconnected in flight. So we're going to put those all together. All right. So we need to take this camera cable and orient it like this and line it up with the connections on the video transmitter. Get it kind of lined up, feel it out and just press it in place and it snaps right in place. We're going to do the same thing with the UFL connector of the antenna. Just kind of line it up and snap it in place in this orientation here and now we can take a little tiny zip tie and go between those two holes and lock them in place.  It's a little tight. I might be able to find yourself a skinnier zip tie than what I found. Push it to the other side, watch out for the cable. All right, pull it tight. Don't damage anything in the process but you want to try to get rid of this bump as much as possible on the bottom side and then we're just going to lock the zip tie in place. Now just make sure the antenna doesn't come unplugged and the camera cable doesn't come unplugged in flight. The smaller the zip tie the better.  It's a very light build. Okay, yo, take some right angle cutters and chop off the end. Next we're going to mount the camera inside the TPU pod and then we'll be mounting the video transmitter inside the TPU pod. Before we mount the camera we kind of have to get the direction of the camera figured out. So we need to put the connector on the camera in the proper orientation. This only fits one direction. If you try to put it on backwards it's not going to snap in place. This is the orientation that you need to put the camera cable on. Just line it up like before, push it in with your thumb until it clicks in place. You want the camera to be oriented where the wires are facing the sky and then your camera will be facing the proper position in the right direction when you put it in the pods. When we put it in the pod we're going to put it in this direction. We're going to use the two holes in the back because it's going to give the camera a little bit of extra protection. If you want to be able to have a little bit more tilt angle to the camera then you can move the camera to the two front holes but there should be plenty of, this is finicky, there should be plenty of angle available using the back holes for almost any situation. So we're going to just kind of line it up to the two holes. Those are the screws that came with the Runcam camera. We're going to use two longest screws that came with it to mount the camera in place. They're just barely long enough to reach the camera with a little bit of pressure. Try to line it up to the camera's hole as you're putting it in just like that. All right we'll put our second screw in, screw my screw in until it's tight. Don't get it too tight. What you want to first do before you get it super tight is adjust your camera angle. Now me personally I like the camera angle all the way down because most of the time when I'm flying this, I'm flying indoors and I don't need to go super fast. But some of your racers out there might want to have a little bit more camera angle and you've got tons of camera angle to work with with this pod. One of the reasons I built this pod with such a high angle is that all of this extra space up here provides a ton of protection to protect the camera in case you do land upside down. One of the major problems I had with some of the original micro drones like this is that I would land upside down on the pod and break the pod or break the camera or break the flight controller. This has all this extra room up here of bumper to protect on a top impact and keep it safe and durable. All right so we're going to use the remaining screws that came with the Beta FPV flight controller to screw the VTX to the pod now. We need three of the long screws that came with the Beta FPV flight controller to mount this VTX into the pod. There are three mounting posts, one, two, three that we're going to mount to. These three cylinders, one, two, three cylinders are where we're going to be mounting the video transmitter. There are little tiny holes in the TPU pod just big enough for the screw to penetrate through. All right so when we put this video transmitter in we're going to put it in a position where the antenna is going to pop out the back. So we're just going to take the antenna and push it through the section in the back of the TPU pod for the antenna to come out of and yeah we're going to line up the video transmitter in this orientation right here. The wires are just going to get pressed along the side of this. We're going to kind of push on the wires a little bit, not don't press too hard because we don't want to damage the coating on the wire but we're going to push down the wires just a little bit so that it can rest up against the TPU side of this panel. And as we put it in just be very very careful the wires not to damage them and be very careful that you don't pop these little tabs off because these little tabs are very fragile and if you're not careful you can pop these little tabs off. These tabs are going to help us to keep this locked in place properly so when you're putting it in just be very careful not to let these tabs get snapped off. All right so I'm just kind of slowly pushing it down and push it down until it pushes up against those three bumpers. All right so we're going to take these three screws and we're going to put them in to their positions. Just kind of screw them into the TPU until they bite and lock the video transmitter in place and repeat that two more times. We're not going to do the screw in the front of the TPU pod. The one that's closest to the camera we're not going to put a screw in because there's no cylinder tab thingy in that position. All right so we got one, two, three screws. We don't have a screw on the front where the camera is. Now we're going to mount the TPU pod to the frame. Remember this is the rear of the quad and this is the front so we will just lay this in place making sure that all the wires lay down properly underneath this TPU pod. We're going to try to line up our four holes and put our screws in. We have three remaining screws that came with the beta FPV flight controller. We're going to take the two long screws and place them on the left and the right of the pod and we're going to take the fourth screw and put it into the back of the pod. The front of the frame has a slightly larger hole. We're going to use the one remaining long screw that came with our camera to mount the front of the pod. All right so get the screw all the way through, line it up to the hole, screw it down. Don't over tighten it because you don't want to strip out the plastic. Okay now the last one's a little bit more difficult. You definitely want to have a magnetic screwdriver for this because you're going to have to put it down inside of this long cylinder hole and try to line it up with the center as you're going down. This screw is not necessary if you have trouble with it. It's just an extra screw that I put in place just for a little bit of extra strength but the original frame design wasn't even using this screw. Yeah look at that. It's nice and tight. That one's locked in place. These two are locked in place. We got one left in the front. I said this one's just a little bit bigger of a hole on the frame so we're going to use an M2 screw to go down into the front. And this is now one of the most durable micros that exists. So now we got this antenna left over. We're going to lay it into the channel that's set right there. This is designed to have a zip tie come through here and lock it in place so that the antenna doesn't get yanked off. So we're just going to wrap our zip tie around the antenna through the little hole in the back there and lock it in place.  Now the antenna ain't going nowhere. Alright so this guy is all ready to go except for putting props on and flashing the software to the board. So what we're going to first do is go into Betaflight and make sure that all our settings are correct for the receiver, for the video transmitter, and make sure the motors are spinning the proper direction. We're going to plug into the USB port on the very bottom. This is a USB mini I think. We're going to plug in our cable to the bottom. Right now we don't necessarily need a battery connected until we're ready to spin up the motors. For right now we're going to set the basic features up of the flight control board. When we first connect it's going to tell you the accelerometer is not calibrated. And we need to close that screen. Alright let's put this up on the table here. This is our new accelerometer calibration tool. We're going to plug in our USB port and in order to calibrate the accelerometer we need to have it on a flat and level surface. It's kind of hard to get a flat and level surface with a big USB sticking out the bottom. So we're going to improvise and we're going to use this cinder block as our flat and level surface. So we're going to go ahead and connect to Betaflight, close the warning screen and click calibrate accelerometer. That's the first thing we want to do. Now we're calibrated we can do away with the cinder block. Alright the first tab we're going to go to is the ports tab. And in the ports tab we want to make sure that ur3 is set to zero rx. We want to make sure that ur4 is connected to msp. That's going to allow the osd information and stick commands to operate the shark bite system. Save and reboot and then we'll move on to the next tab. So we're going to reconnect again go into the configuration tab. That's the next tab we're going to go to. Make sure dshot 600 is selected. I usually drop the motor idle percent value to 2 or somewhere in that range because it's a little bit too floaty with the standard idle value. I usually go and change the maximum r angle degrees to 180 that will allow you to arm it at any angle in case you get stuck somewhere. Make sure it's set to sbus and make sure that your rx set is enabled if you want to be able to enable the beeper mode. It's also good to enable rx loss in case you turn off your transmitter. The model will start beeping if you enable rx loss if you turn off your transmitter. So save and reboot and reconnect. On the battery tab I like to increase the maximum cell voltage to 4.5 and that keeps it from giving me warnings when it doesn't need to give me battery warnings. Sometimes when you plug in a lipo if it's a little bit over or a little bit under it'll give you warnings that you have the wrong lipo plugged in and that stops that from happening. On pid tuning tab we're not going to leave we're not going to change any of that stuff. I like to use my rssi channel as aux 4 and then I can get rssi value from my transmitter to the osd on aux 4 which is actually channel 8 and then save that. On the modes tab we need to make sure we enable arming on aux 1 is the way I have my transmitter set up. You can also enable beeper turtle mode and any other features you want in the modes tab. I'm going to go ahead and set up the beeper on aux 3 because that's the way my transmitter set up. I'm going to set up flip over after crash on aux 2 and that's pretty much all the features that I need set on mine. In the osd tab you definitely want to have battery voltage selected at the very minimum so that way you can see what your lipo is at. Move the battery down to the bottom so it's out of the way. Save. You can enable any other things you want on the osd but that's all I'm going to have on mine. That in the rssi actually. I'm going to have the rssi as well so I can see what the signal strength is of the receiver. The next thing I need to check on is to make sure that the motors are in the right position because the board orientation might have them in the wrong position. So I'm going to spin up each motor one at a time and right now this is what Betaflight thinks motor 1 is. That's not the right motor for motor 1. Motor 1 should be over here. Motor 2 is spinning this motor so 1 and 2 are actually reversed. This should be motor 3 but that is actually motor 3. This should be motor 4 but that's motor 4. So we need to flip flop motors 1 and 2 and we need to flip flop motors 3 and 4 in Betaflight. In order to do that we're going to need to go to CLI. In the CLI tab we're going to type in resource. We're going to find the resource for motors 1 through 4 and we're going to copy the information into a text editing program such as text edit and paste it into that. So I want to change a few values. We need to flip flop 3 and 4 and we need to flip flop 1 and 2. So we're going to do that really quick on the text editor and we're going to recopy and repaste this back into Betaflight. So now I'm going to paste those commands back into Betaflight, hit enter, hit save and now our motors should be in the correct orientation. Let's reconnect Betaflight and verify on the motors tab that the motors are going and the motors are in the right position. So this is 1, that's correct now, this should be 2, that's correct now, this should be 3 and this should be 4 and that's correct. So now we need to make sure that the motors are spinning in the right direction. You definitely don't want to do this with the props on so we're going to go ahead and test the prop direction with the props off. We're going to go ahead and plug in the battery and it didn't catch on fire so we did something right. All right in the motors tab of Betaflight we're going to spin up all the motors and see what direction they're spinning. We're not going to spin them all the way up, just a little bit is enough to figure out what direction they're spinning and you can kind of feel them, make sure all four motors are working and make sure they're all going in the right direction. Now in this model I've got three motors spinning the wrong direction and one motor spinning the right direction. Motor one is spinning the correct direction which is the swimming configuration or props out. So these three motors are all incorrect and they need to be changed in BL Heli. So we're going to disconnect from Betaflight and we're going to use BL Heli Suite to fix the motor direction. So I'm going to use the chrome configurator just because it's easier to do that on a Mac. In the BL Heli configurator we're going to click connect and we're going to read the setup and we're going to leave everything the way it is because there's no reason to change it. We're going to change all the motor directions that we need to fix. ESC one was correct ESC two needed to go to reverse ESC three needs to go to reverse and ESC four needs to go to reverse. We're going to write setup and now all the motors should be spinning the correct direction. So we're going to disconnect from BL Heli and go back to Betaflight and make sure that our motors are all spinning the correct direction now. Back in Betaflight we're going to go to the motors tab and we're going to enable the motors and try one more time to make sure they're all spinning the right direction. And now they're all spinning the right direction. And the one last thing we need to do in Betaflight is go to the configuration tab and make sure that the motor direction is reversed and it already is. So that's good we can save and reboot everything and we're ready to put the props on and give it a test flight. If you don't want to have to go through all these steps we will have a tune file ready for you link in the description check it out. You will still have to make sure motor direction is correct but all the other steps that I performed in Betaflight you won't have to do. We've got a nice tune file that has the proper pin tuning and everything for this particular build. It actually has a tune file for 2s and 3s. So when you plug in a 2s battery it will automatically have the right settings. When you plug in a 3s battery it will automatically have the right settings for 3s. So now we're going to disconnect all the cables connect the props and take it for a test flight. Make sure you put the props facing out laces out. So Baby Shark takes a 2 inch prop. Just about any 2 inch prop should work just fine. We're using the HQ 2x2x3 prop here. Now before we can fly this we have to bind it to the receiver and I am using a QX7 receiver so I'll show you how to bind it to a QX7. So this radio is already set up and if you want to learn about how to set up a QX7, Joshua Barwell has a ton of videos on these radios but I'm going to show you how to do a quick binding of this radio and if you have this radio you might already know how it works and how to set up the switches but you'll definitely need to set up an arm switch and I have this switch set up as my arm switch which on AUX channel 1 which is channel 5 on an 8 channel transmitter. So in order to bind this receiver we're going to need to push it out the back just a little bit so we can access this bind button and it's a little bit tricky but you need to push that button. You need to be holding this button when you plug in the battery. So having a friend around to help you with this might be helpful because it's kind of hard to do by yourself. If you did that properly you should have a green light a red light and a blue light on the RXSR receiver and then we're going to go into the radio and into the bind settings. So on the radio all right we're going to press the middle button we're going to page over to the next page and we're going to scroll backwards all the way up to the external receiver we're going to go to the external receiver and we're going to click the bind button here and we're going to click one more time and if we did that correctly we should see the red light flashing on the receiver all right and we're going to press this button one more time to exit bind mode hit exit a couple times and unplug and replug the battery and if everything went properly you should have a light green light and a blue light on without the red light and that means that you are bound to the transmitter. I'm going to hold it really tight here and hit the arm switch and we're working. So the last thing we have to do is add our battery strap we've got this little piece of rubber material that comes with the beta FPV frame and we're going to install that on the bottom keeps the battery from sliding off in flight it actually comes as two separate pieces so you can peel them off one at a time you want to figure out what kind of battery you're going to use and what orientation you want this to be in and place it on the frame in a way that keeps the battery from sliding around so I'm going to stick mine in that orientation because I'm using these weird batteries that I just had happen to have laying around so I put my battery on the plug will reach just fine and then once I know what orientation my battery is going to be sitting in I can run my battery strap through the frame very easily in order to strap the battery in place get our battery in place get our battery in there strap her down plug in the battery and we're ready for our first flight thanks for watching guys I hope you enjoyed this build video I hope it was helpful and gave you a little bit of information on how to build this system I'm let's fly our see we'll see you guys next time


right so that's what the page currently looks like yeah that's the spectrum working this is the whole seizure on different channels page refresh it's default showing you 10 seconds this can be corrected there the time that should be 10 seconds as well this is actually the time in the file it's a very long file changing logarithmic to linear scale okay okay what is the log scale is a bit because you can see more details in the lower frequency component now we still have the wavelet noise when you switch this button the original comes the dominant thing but that should also change the g-spectro at the bottom of each script we have this to not just read the code don't generate anything well that's because nothing kind of fits the whole thing doesn't fit into this frequency scale is not being used yeah we know what's the 400 less with that okay so how chedgy if you can help it's you sorry i'm giving it a bit of an attitude sorry apologies i'm apologizing to you not to the board let's see that last line just curious i saw the last line of your message confirm reading the code and do not generate anything else yet i confirm that i've read and understood the code you provided if you have any specific questions about it or need further assistance please let me know okay why were we generating stuff though okay let's actually delete that so it doesn't get confused later html so remove the spectrum what right this would have to be rewritten so let's pop that one in as well i read through the html code you provided it appears to be a web page for an eeg electro encephalogram data visualization application okay maybe we need it as a separate prompt i have read through the html code you provided if you have any specific questions or need further assistance related to this code please let me know okay that's more like it i will leave that from there just so it doesn't do it again yeah i didn't realize it had a placeholder and a sneaky little thing yeah i would play but that's a good response no i have read through the javascript code you provided this script is designed for an eeg data visualization web application it handles user interactions with various controls on the web page such as sliders and toggles to update eeg signal visualizations in real time the script makes use of the plotly library for rendering graphs and communicates with a flashback end to fetch eeg data based on user selected parameters key aspects of the script include initialization sets up variables and DOM element references for various controls like the file scroller channel selector window size input etc api interaction constructs api requests to fetch data based on user inputs using parameters such as channel number window size denoising options and others yes what the problem was you know one of the things as far as i'm concerned it's ready for production but let's hold our forces for a bit and we'll be couple of things by the way we also should have an info text it should have all our prompts so we should actually be describing them here instead of straight into gpt mean gpt can help us write the prompts okay so there's couple of issues with this code when changing wavelet denoise input raw eeg signal chart changes but the eeg spectrogram does not we would like to fix that this can be achieved by either passing these settings as parameters to the function or by having the function access them directly call fetch and display spectrogram on wavelet denoise change currently it seems that only the raw signal chart fetch data and render is updated when the wavelet denoise setting is changed you need to also call fetch and display spectrogram to update the spectrogram accordingly right so let's check what we currently have we only have a fetch and render yeah that's what's changing the eeg chart so replacing all that we can leave those here for a while so we know what was changed let's check it now our refreshed page the spectrogram still doesn't seem to change that the spectrogram as well let me know size would you expect the wavelet denoise update the eeg spectrogram to show the noise signal if the wavelet denoise setting is correctly implemented and integrated into both the raw eeg signal processing and the spectrogram generation in your back end flask api then updating the wavelet denoise setting should indeed affect the eeg spectrogram when applied to eeg data it should ideally remove or reduce artifacts and noise leading to a cleaner spectrogram giving me some generic responses i apologize if my previous responses seem too generic let's address your specific issue regarding the wavelet denoise function and its effect on the eeg spectrogram in a more targeted way wavelet denoise this process aims to reduce noise in the eeg signal when you apply wavelet denoising it should ideally clean up the signal by removing irregularities and noise components eeg spectrogram the spectrogram visualizes the frequency content of the signal over time when you apply denoising it should reflect in the spectrogram by showing a clearer signal with reduced noise artifacts especially in frequency bands where noise is more prevalent when you enable the wavelet denoise function it should not only update the raw eeg signal but also the eeg spectrogram check the back end processing ensure that the flask api is configured to apply the wavelet denoise setting to the data used for generating the spectrogram front end api interaction confirm that when the denoise setting is changed the front end makes the appropriate api calls with the updated settings for both the raw signal and the spectrogram in your javascript event listener for wavelet denoise ensure that after calling fetch data and render you also call a function like fetch and display spectrogram or similar that makes an api call to get the updated spectrogram data okay let's break it down when wavelet denoise input turned on the spectrogram should show the denoist signal when wavelet denoise input is off the spectrogram should show the original spectrum of the signal do i actually have apply wavelet denoising i don't think so in this updated route you apply the same denoising logic to the eeg data before generating the spectrogram right so that's actually makes a bit of sense so when we generate the spectrum data are we already doing this eeg data denoise wait if wavelet denoise okay you'll need to can you regenerate the whole spectrogram data function sorry i won't be able to integrate that i don't know why then well enough absolutely okay this will be really odd because i'll have this code twice yes i assume functions can go in the beginning of the code and we're pretty sure i don't need this one just call it out right so now we have this supply wavelet denoising now in spectrogram let's do this one first and get data


My question is about supporting the resistance in Iraq. I've read a lot about the resistance, and I've read a lot of opinions in the left that run the range of this debate around supporting the resistance. And I have to say that I'm still kind of confused about it. My instincts say to just support the resistance, as it is, with no judgment, because our judgment makes not that much of a difference in terms of scrutinizing what it is. So in fact, if you're, I don't need to talk about that anymore. If you know what I'm talking about in terms of how do we support fundamentalist religious groups that would have nothing really to do in North America in a North American context, yet it seems to be the only game in town in Iraq, as far as viable resistance. So there's this ongoing debate in the left that says we can't support religious fanatics, and that we need to support. We need to sort of tease out the labor movement in Iraq and other sort of smaller players within there and support them. But I find that to be wholly ineffective. So I'd like to hear what you have to say about how we support the resistance, the resistance in Iraq, and if you can weigh in on that debate, by the way. Just checking, can everybody hear, OK? I have really no idea of suggestions on how to support the Iraqi resistance in a physical way. I certainly wouldn't recommend trying to send money or something like that to be one way to get the Guantanamo. And we already know how immune Canadian citizens are for that. So I think just briefly to talk about the Iraqi resistance is that it sounds like we probably agree in that it's no one's position outside of Iraq, least of all people in the United States and other Western countries, to judge and determine what a resistance should look like. This invasion and occupation took place because we, as Americans, failed in our duty as citizens in a theoretical democracy to stop a government from launching an illegal and moral invasion and occupation. So therefore, by default, I have no place in judging, well, OK, Kalashnikovs are OK, but carbons are out. I have no moral justification that it would allow me to judge them for what kind of resistance they're going to use against the most powerful military on the planet. But a little bit about the resistance is it's extremely complex. There isn't a resistance. There's a myriad of collection of militias, of mercenaries, of nationalists, of ex-militaries. I mean, there's one person responsible for at least founding the resistance, and it's Paul Brimmer, the head of the Coalition for Visible Authority, who overnight disbanded the Iraqi military. So literally, in 24 hours, you had hundreds of thousands of armed, trained, angry, unemployed men on the streets. And that, to this day, forms the backbone, and arguably the skeleton of the resistance. But over time, it is becoming increasingly religious and Islamist, as is the rest of the country. Because when you erase the state, and not only do you not replace it, but it is replaced with violence, death, suffering, the erasing of the culture, the erasing of the shredding of the social fabric, and no infrastructure services at all, then people turn to whatever structures left, the tribe and the mosque. And the resistance is, of course, being affected by that as well. But again, according to the US military, the maximum number of people launching attacks on them that are not Iraqis is between 4% and 6%. That's according to the US military. So it's a primarily Iraqi and nationalist resistance, but it is becoming more fundamentalist and more, that the boundaries that used to exist are definitely being blurred. But Iraq's basically being broken down into different geographic areas governed by warlords, kind of like what's happened in Afghanistan, where the US is basically saying, all right, the Shia, like the Fadila party, you guys got this part of Basra, the Saudis have this part, the Bada organization, the militia of SIC, you've got this part. So it's basically being divvied up to warlords and their militias and tribes and their militias. And that's becoming really, really common too.


Can I make 40 here? So there was this medieval Jewish philosopher, Maimonides called the Rambam who had the idea that we can tune in to God, that there are certain select, you know, highly elevated thinkers who can tune in to the divine and that God reaches out to those who reach out to him. And so I like the idea that there are transmitters in the universe, right? And we can tune in to God, if we want to. We can tune in to radio station K-G-O-D, or we can tune in to radio session K-L-O-V-E, right? There's love that's transmitting in the world, there's love that's broadcasting in the love that's broadcasting in the world, and we can tune in to it. Like there are channels broadcasting of gratitude in the world that we can tune in to. There are channels broadcasting beauty in the world. We can tune in to those channels. We can tune in to the divine. We can tune in to compassion, right? There are transmitters of love and compassion of the divine, of that which is holy and spiritual. So one definition of spirituality that I really like is spirituality is that good feeling you get when you help somebody else. So many of us stay tuned into rage, so much of my life like tuned into resentment, so much of my life tuned into frustration, like why aren't I getting what I deserve? Yeah, take the U-line pill. What's the U-line pill? So we get to choose like what channels we tune in to here. So we can tune in to the channel of gratitude. Like when we're in the mood of gratitude, we can just notice everything that we can be grateful for. Like I'm grateful for the opportunity to talk to my friend Ricardo right now while I'm talking to my phone. I'm grateful for the opportunity to share my ideas with anyone in the world who wants to tune in. I'm grateful that I just have to hit a few buttons and boom, I'm live. And I'm grateful for the delicious strawberry banana protein drink that I started my day with. Grateful for this new supplement that I take at night to think how we get about a night's sleep. And so when we're in a mood of gratitude, then we notice there are things to be grateful for. I'm grateful that Japan is my president instead of disavowed.  Even if you're a Trump supporter like I am, I mean, there are lots of things that I find that can be grateful for with Joe Biden. And like if we're happy, we just notice things in the world that reinforce our happiness. Like our mood has such a profound effect on what we notice in the world. And so I found I have to make, you know, a deliberate effort to tune in to certain certain frequencies in the universe. Because if I don't watch out, I'll just tune in to rage, right? That seems to be the dominant mood on the right since the 2020 election rage.  And it's like rage porn, you can tune in to Tucker and Tucker does a lot of good work, but also much of it is just rage porn. So like just all these reasons to get more and more enraged. And I don't think that's life that works. Like I prefer to tune in to reasons to be happy reasons to be grateful reasons to be optimistic reasons to find common common values, common activities, common perspectives or common ground with the people around you. Like it really easy to just get ticked off with people. And it's inevitable if you have people in your life that you're going to find lots of reasons to get angry. But you can tune in to channels where you look to magnify that which you have in common with people that you may have to interact with. You can tune in to channels of love. Like you love your job or you love the food that you eat.  You love the people in your life. You love your hobbies. You love these books that you've got lined up to read. You love learning new things. You love the simulating exchange of email that you just had with a friend. And like tuning in to that vibration, to that broadcast channel. Like choosing to make that, the channel that's operating in your mind, such a happier way to go through life. So there is grace in the world. I'm sounding like a Christian now. But like even in the midst of rage sometimes we'll get a little bit of perspective. So Fred Luskin before he Stanford professor, a Stanford professor of psychology before he embarked on doing his doctrine, I think in forgiveness. He was very hurt by a friend who he felt had betrayed him. And he was really whining about it. And finally his wife said, this is what I signed up for. I didn't sign up to be married to a guy who's so filled with anger and rage. And one day she sends him to the supermarket and he doesn't want to go. He's mad. And he said, well, what can I go to this other supermarket, which is closer? And she says, no, I want you to go to this particular supermarket because there's an item there that only the supermarket has. So it's Christmas time. He goes to the supermarket. He has to park a long way away. He goes into the Safeway and goes look for the item. And it's not there. And he's just about to become engulfed in a tsunami of rage and resentment. And then he gets a moment of grace. Like he looks around Safeway and just sees like the 12 million items that you can buy. And he feels such a sense of abundance. And it was like a moment of grace. Like sometimes we can be going down a railway track of rage and resentment. And then we can look out the window and we can see something and see something beautiful. And have that moment of grace where we get off the railroad track of rage and appreciate that, which is beautiful because we can find channels that reinforce our capacity for awe, our capacity for holiness, our capacity for God, for our capacity for spirituality, our capacity for kindness, for love, for compassion, for forgiveness. And we have to make a little bit of an effort, though, to tune into these channels. Look at the window and see a half naked woman jogging in Beverly Hills. True beauty. Right. So that's an example. So depending on what level of recovery I'm at. So with regard to my sex and love addiction, I can look out the window and notice a beautiful woman jogging along. And it's just like looking at a beautiful sunset. You know, just how beautiful. And then I can look out the window if I'm at, say, a lower level of recovery. And I start thinking that, that thing that is jogging by, if I could just possess that in certain ways, that would fill the hole in my soul. That would make life worth living. That would mean that I was a real man. That would be the triumph over everyone who's ever mocked me. This would be my ultimate redemption. I can find my redemption inside of her. And so that second way, yeah, it feels false. So then like if I go down that track and start thinking, ah, I can find meaning and purpose in life by filling up that woman. I don't have to berate myself for that. I can see, okay, what is it that my soul is trying to tell me right now? Like, what is it that I'm trying to find in that woman's butt that I can perhaps better find in God? Like, what is that, that desire for connection? That obviously my desire for connection and for wholeness and for feeling alive has become warped so that all my frustrations are just boiling down to I have to possess that particular woman. And I can think about, okay, what are healthier ways that I can express that? What are ways that I can say triumph in my day? Something that I can do that I have control over. So I have control over everything that I say right now. Like, I can take this talk in any direction. And so I can assert control and I can send this video down a particular direction that I want to go in. And so I have no power over that woman. I may not be in a circumstance or it may not be an appropriate relationship for me. But there are things that I can take control of. Like, I can write a book, I can write a blog post, I can read a book, I can volunteer, I can sponsor people in my various 12-step programs. There are things I can do to take control and to connect. Because I know that when I connect my desperate yearning to possess some woman I don't even know, it's not nearly as intense. When I'm feeling connected with other people, my desperate yearning for fame is, you know, it's not nearly as intense. When I'm connected with other people, my tendencies towards rage and resentment, they diminish. Okay, I feel less need for attention seeking, for shocking people, for offending people. I don't need to do anything bizarre or extreme to grab attention when I feel connected with someone who I value. So I like this idea that there are broadcast channels of love in the world. We can tune into them. There are broadcast channels of compassion in the world that we can tune into. There are broadcast channels of the divine, of spirituality, of the transcendent that we can tune into. We just have to make a bit of an effort. Sometimes we have to situate ourselves in particular places. You're not going to be after, yeah, these recumbent streams always remind me of Andy Nourke. So I arrange my room so that it brings out the transcendent. Like I have all these posters of Jerusalem and of the wall. And I don't have posters of women in bikinis or guns or anything that's going to bring me down. So you're not going to access God nearly as easily at a bar or while you're watching some completely secular and hedonistic entertainment. So to tune into these higher channels, I have to make some changes. I have to put myself sometimes in particular places, to put myself in a particular mood through prayer, meditation, listening to a particular type of music, reading certain things, listening to certain talks, getting on certain meetings, 12-step meetings, phone meetings. I have to be rigorous about the type of people that I allow into my life. But there are these channels broadcasting out there in the universe. There are channels of grace and of love and of recovery. Clever, you're saying that Luke might have infected himself by engaging with Andy Nourke. Yeah, so it's so interesting that we both came away and, you know, I both came away from the exchange like even more reinforced in our world views. So yeah, there are people that you can engage with who will bring out your melancholy, who will bring out your craziness. Like you can be a secure person, but you can bring one person into your life and you can start becoming insecure. You can start becoming crazy. Or you can start becoming more melancholy. You can start becoming depressed. You might find your brain slowing down when you're interacting with certain persons. You might find yourself getting ticked off. So you have to be really careful. Like there are certain people that I hear on 12-step meetings and I just take my headphones out or I just turn down because they're just so sunk in their depression that it doesn't serve me to have them in their lives. There are people who call me and I do not return their calls because I want to stay tuned in to these channels of love, grace, transcendence. Bye-bye.


Okay, folks, check this out. This will really be like a part two, right? Cause we've already brined the chicken. Look, there's the star. She been bathing all night. She ready to go. Now, what I wanna tell you guys, listen, you can go to my website, smokingandgrillingwithab.com. That's W-I-T-A-B.com, right? Listen, I got the brine in there. You guys can click, see the video and you can get the ingredients and instruct us how you wanna do it. So this is what I'm gonna do. Look, I got my little board down here.  I keep every, you know, this is what I use for poultry, right? I put this on here. Now, what we wanna do is we wanna take this out, right? Let me get this cleaned up. I'm gonna take it out, drain it. And then what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna put it right here cause listen, we wanna season it.  Okay, so I want you guys to look at this right here. So when you brine, look at the color. It's because of what I put inside of the, you know, my brine is the reason why it looked like this, but this right here is really, really, you can see, I know some of y'all looking at it cause you know this bird usually be white, right? So look, now we wanna just pat it dry. I didn't rinse it or nothing like that. I just took it, picked up all of the acorns, you know, anything else that was on there. You know what I mean? And so we just get it clean. Okay, so, you know, I got it padded dry. You know what I mean? To be honest with you, you do not have to do that. You know what I mean? You could've, cause you're gonna need a binder. This right here is my poultry seasoning, right? You guys can take a look on my website. This is on here right now.  But today I'm gonna go ahead and then, okay, let me just show you this. This is a compound butter. You know, when you say compound butter, hey listen, it's just butter infused with whatever you wanna put in there. I do a garlic, you know, onion powder, both of those powders. I add just a pinch of salt. I put a little pepper in there. You know what? Cause it makes it as this cooks and melts, right? I'm not gonna be able to get this so you guys can see it, but I just run my finger along this and I'm just gonna separate the skin from the meat, right? We just do this, you know why? Cause once I get enough space under here, I like to put a little compound butter underneath, right? So let me bring it this way so I can work and I'll show you in just one second. Okay, so if you look right here, you see how I can run my fingers under here? The skin didn't tear or nothing like that. You just wanna be careful, right? So you wanna come up with this and I gotta tell you guys, this is great if you guys are doing something outside on a grill. Now, I'll take my compound butter, you know what I mean? And I'll just get it in here.  But you just wanna rub it. You see how you see that? That's okay. This is gonna give that breast real, real good, good flavor, right? We gonna do something a little different for the skin, but trust me, this right here is the way to go. Okay, so look, now that we got the compound butter underneath the skin, you guys can do it this way too. You can smear it on the top there and then go ahead and season it. But I don't like doing that cause when you see, when you put it on like that, as the heat, you know, melts, it kind of like takes your season in the way too, right? So I'm gonna be using my infused olive oil, right? This right here, this is my garlic infused, right? Made by Branch and Vine. Don't forget, this the holidays folks, if we don't never level up, we level up for the, you know, we bring our guests in here, right?  Cause I'm about to give this bird a massage like never before, right? You see this right here? This is gonna help achieve that golden brown that we're gonna be looking for, you know, on the chicken, you know, don't forget we brined it.  Let me just work this bird. Now don't forget, I talked to you guys about having this poultry seasoning, right? Now I'm gonna go ahead, you guys can do it how you wanna do it, as far as your seasoning go, but I like to get my put, you know, my seasoning all on it. Now I'm gonna be doing a twofer on this one. You know what I mean? But look at that covers right there. You guys can see like a little bit of the color. You know what I mean? Before we tuck everything in, we wanna make sure we get it on everything. I don't know, some people like to chew on these. That'd be a boy too, you know what I mean? But we doing good right now without having the little holes on the top, right? Okay, so once you got it seasoned, you know, seasoned to the way you like it. Look, I'm gonna take these, if you guys didn't already know. Look, I take this and I fold it underneath the bottom and just tuck him in, right? I'm gonna do the same thing over here. Now look at the wing. That tells me that it need to get a little seasoned on there too, right? So once you got him tucked in like that, let me clean my hands. Then I'm gonna go ahead, grab my poultry seasoning, right? And then we just put a little bit here. Whew. If you ain't never seen a seasoned bird before, now you have. Now look, you gotta do this any which way you want to. I'm just gonna tie these up like that. I left them open so I can get seasoning all up in there, right? So now just tie these and then we go from there. Okay, so this is what your birds should look like. You know what I mean? Now we're gonna monitor it because we want to watch the color.  So if it starts to get too brown over the top, we're gonna put some foil over the top. Just build like a little tent, just to reflect so we can continue cooking. So we want this to be at 165 at the breast. When the breasts are done, believe me, the rest of it is done too. So put it in, we're gonna go one hour. Okay, folks, so now let's go ahead and take this off. Oh my goodness, look at how that looked right there. Now we're gonna go ahead and drop this in here like this just to see where we at. 150, we on our way. I'm gonna check this other side. That's at 168.  But I want you guys to notice, look at the color. That right there is a nice bird. So we put this back in here like that. I'm gonna go ahead and put my foil back on the top. Right, that's him. And I'm gonna let it go for about another 15 minutes and I think she's gonna be ready. Okay, folks, so another 15 minutes. Let's go ahead and get this out of there. I'm gonna go ahead and pull it out a little bit. You know what I mean? Now I'm gonna stick this inside like this. 164, 162. It's still gonna continue to cook, right? So let's check this other side. That one's a little high. Let's check it back here. I'm telling y'all, we ready. That's 164 down to three. It's gonna continue to cook. You know why? Because when I take it out, check this part out. When I take it out, I'm gonna put that tent back on there and I'm gonna let it just come to room, you know, let it cool on its own. But we're gonna let it continue to rise just like you see it. Okay, so look, the chicken might be a little small, right? And this is like a, obviously, this is a 12 inch meat slicer, right? Ashton it for like your brisket, your ribs. You know what I mean? And then when you're doing that prime rib, you're giving it that cut. This right here is solidifying. You put it in the game. And if you guys check it, look right there. Look, both of them are signed, smoking and grilling with AB.  First, you see it cut like butter, right? Oh my goodness. You see that little, hey, did I tell you? Oh, I forgot to say, you know I didn't inject, right? Didn't I tell you about brine? You wanna see that right there? And if you ask me, in this part of the breast, talk to me, folks. Hey, with that being said, I'm not finna over talk. We about to eat. Woo-hoo-hoo. Happy Thanksgiving, y'all. I'm trying to have a serious face, folks. The reason I'm popping my collar is because listen, so many people are like new to brining, but this is how your turkey would be.  And then look, I'm gonna show you this. Before I go, I like to just let it, ooh, because this is what was inside of there. I know some of y'all are like, what? And then you know what, I'm gonna do this for good measure. You see how they tear like that? And is this breast? Not for real. But anyway, you guys know, if you wanna have a juicy guarantee, you know, a juicy bird, then the brine is the way to go. Hey, it works good on pork chops, too, folks. Hey, with that being said, let me know down in the comment section below what you guys think about this. Is this new to you? Or tell me, you know, your special brine and I'll share mine with y'all. Now, with that being said, listen, if you're new to my channel, don't forget to like, smash that subscribe button and tell everybody out here. There's a channel out here to simplify these recipes and taking the mystery out of cooking. And guess what, folks? Dip, dip, and I'm out. Peace.


Exhibit buddy. Yeah, we're going to exhibit together. And today we came to see Kid Pairing's exhibit at the DKP. We're about to go in right now. I hope it's good. From the concert, I had so much fun. I was dancing the whole time, my feet are like numb right now because I wore Dr. Martin's and I haven't broken them in yet, but seriously, that was one of the best concerts I've been to. It's like the only concert that I was smiling throughout the entire show from beginning to end. I loved their energy. I just loved it so much. Phony people, you guys are the best and please come back to Seoul again. Somewhere in that, some of you guys may be familiar with. For those of you who follow Joan, Romeo Beauty House. And today I came to get my hair done here as well. It's my first time ever, but I saw how good he was at coloring hair. I just wanted to get my hair done by him. I'm really excited, but nervous at the same time because I'm planning on bleaching my hair, which I haven't done since like pretty, pretty era. So I'm pretty nervous about that. I'm just gonna ask him what would look good on me because I don't know. I have no idea that he's a professional. He did say it was going to take around four hours. So I'm here at just 1 p.m. right now. I'm gonna miss you brown hair, maybe, just a little. I love this Barbie. Hi. So many interesting things here. They said I gotta bleach my hair at least twice, maybe three times. It still doesn't come out. Whoa, I haven't done this in forever. I'm kind of nervous, but excited. I love it. It got really light. I didn't expect it to get this light up. Second bleach is done. It really looks sky blue. Burish on the bottom. I like this color right now too, though. This looks so funny. This is my hair dye. Looking hard today. I have too much hair that ends around the same length. I have to get rid of that. Depending on the lighting, it looks, sometimes it looks gray, sometimes it looks blue, sometimes it looks brown. So I'm excited to see how it looks once it starts fading away. I feel like it makes me look a little whiter too. Is it just me? Thank you, captain. I sit down and talk about my hair because I'm so happy with the way it came out. So bad, like not bad, meaning bad, but bad meaning good, you know? I was originally gonna go for the blonde, but he said the gray fades really quickly to blonde in a matter of two weeks. So I was like, okay, why not start off with gray if it's gonna fade to blonde anyways? I did bleach my hair twice. So yeah, this is gonna eventually fade. I'm excited to see what it would look like after every wash as well. I love it. Like captain, he's really nice or he goes by name of Jose. He's super friendly and one of the other workers there was telling me how hair salon has their own hair dye and treatment stuff. But captain, he buys these like special hair dyes from Japan and hair treatment out of his own pocket money because he just believes in, you know, using the best products for his clients. Thank you for making me look like this bad, bad girl. And guys, he said he'd be willing to give you guys a discount if you come in and say that you came from watching Ashley. He'll give you a 30% discount and you can make reservations through his Instagram which I will leave down below and also his kakao ID. I currently have 11 more days to let go back home. He's so exciting.


Short-term food withdrawal during chemotherapy may begin to solve the long-standing problem with most cancer treatments, how to kill the tumor without killing the patient. Short-term fasting, for example, for 48 hours before chemo and 24 hours afterwards, may reduce side effects, reduce chemotherapy-induced toxicity. However, the potential tumor suppressing effects of fasting, for example, its influence on tumor growth, metastasis, and prognosis have not been evaluated until now. No, actually, sadly, they mean have not been evaluated until now, meaning have not been evaluated yet, period. So, in answering the question to fast or not to fast before chemotherapy, it should be emphasized that the evidence provided by human studies is still very limited. Some argue that reducing the side effects alone could improve efficacy since patients could withstand higher doses. For example, the heart and kidney damage associated with widely prescribed anti-cancer drugs limit their full therapeutic potential. It's not clear, though, that maximizing the tolerated chemo dose would achieve longer survival or better quality of life. For now, I think we should just be satisfied with the fewer side effects for fewer side effects' sake. Some cancer docs urge caution, a concern about malnutrition. That concern is echoed in official guidelines on nutrition and cancer patients. Because of the risks of malnutrition, and yeah, maybe a day or two might not hurt, but because patients might be tempted to prolong fasting episodes without firm evidence of a benefit, they feel fasting during chemotherapy cannot be recommended. Fasting proponents agree that patients with severe weight loss, muscle wasting, or malnutrition, probably not good candidates for even short-term fasting. But of the hundreds of patients that have been trying, there's no evidence of severe adverse events in terms of malnutrition, or weight loss with short-term fasting, or fasting-mimicking diets. And those patients who did experience a weight loss during fasting typically recovered their way before the subsequent cycle of chemo without detectable harm. But like, I mean, even if there is a risk, we're talking about cancer here, I mean, accepting trade-offs is kind of the name of the game. People are willing to put up with the risks of severe, even life-threatening side effects all the time. And even if it just helped alleviate some of the side effects, it might be worth a try. Of course, meanwhile, big farmers, busy trying to come up with drugs, aimed at reproducing the beneficial effects of fasting, although fasting-mimicking drugs may be preferred by patients who would rather pop a pill than go without eating, it will be years before they'll ever be on the market. And it's hard to imagine drugs will be developed that are both as effective and as safe as fast. So is there anything we can tweak in our diet to get similar benefits without having to fast? The way fasting works is by reducing the levels of a cancer-promoting growth hormone known as insulin-like growth factor 1. It's the reduced levels of IGF-1 that mediates the difference or protection of normal and cancer cells in response to fasting, and improves chemo's ability to kill cancer, but spare normal cells. How do we know this? Because restoration of IGF-1 was sufficient to reverse the protective effect of fasting. Check it out. Here's the growth of two cancer cell lines, breast cancer and melanoma, in a petri dish after being exposed to chemotherapy. Survival rates dropped down into the 60s or even 20s, but the same dose in starved cells works even better. Same dose, same starvation, but dripped back a little IGF-1 and the starvation benefit banishes. So reducing IGF-1 signaling may provide the dual benefits by protecting normal cells while reducing tumor progression and even help prevent the cancer in the first place, as I explained before. In my How Not To Die From Cancer video and an important video about animal protein, which kind of gives away the punchline, but fasting isn't the only way to drop IGF-1 levels. Yes, a few days of fasting can cut levels in half, but that's largely because you're cutting your protein intake. Protein is a key determinant of circulating IGF-1 levels in humans suggesting that reduced protein intake may become an important component of anti-cancer and anti-aging dietary interventions, particularly a reduction in animal protein. If you compare those eating strictly plant-based diets, this is getting about the recommended daily intake of protein, 0.8 grams per kilogram of body weight, and compare them to people just slender, but eating more typical American protein intake. Going on a calorie-restricted diet may lower IGF-1 a little, but eating a plant-based diet can lower it more. So not only may a diet centered around whole plant foods down regular IGF-1 activity, potentially slowing the aging process, but may be a way of turning anti-aging genes against cancer.