She had the honour of bringing us candles. Tf the President of
the Eepublic himself came, le Patron would turn off the gas at
ten o'clock — not a moment later.
"We learn in travelling through the world to take things as
we find them, and, like the Scotch, adapt ourselves to circum-
stances ; so we accepted the candles and assured the substantial
vision that her attentions were appreciated ; whilst H. C. with
a polite bow and a sentimental sigh declared that where she
earned the sunshine of her eyes, other lights were unnecessary.
He would have the pleasure of writing a sonnet to her eye-
brows. The substantial vision gave a mystified bow and
withdrew.
But we must go back to the first moments of our arrival,
and take things in their order.
Having settled ourselves at the hotel we went out to re-
connoitre. The afternoon was growing old and daylight would
soon fade. We found the town a curious old place, full of
contradictory outlines and elements: old and new blended
together in strange juxtaposition, a want of cleanliness distin-
guishing streets and houses. Over all there was a more or less
poverty-stricken appearance. And the town is poor and the
people are poor, though Sion is the capital of the Valais canton.
