We rode into Moreno about half-past six and were very kindly
received. The citizens had heard that we were coming and made
us as comfortable as possible at the posada. All the local dignitaries
except the alcalde, who has gone to Pore, called on us. The alcalde
left orders with a very intelligent person to provide for our necessities
in accordance with instructions received from Bogota. There was
little for him to do, but our reception was a very pleasant contrast
to what we have had during the past three days.
We learn that Pore is the end of the government telegraph wire
and that its annual fair is in progress, so we are anxious to reach it
tomorrow. The local dignitaries tried their best to persuade us to
stay here for several days, dispose of our oxen and buy mules for our
journey across the Andes, telling us that there was nothing to be had
at Pore. We hear, however, from Juan, and also from a traveller at
the inn, that Pore has more shops than Moreno; which would not be
strange, as Moreno has only two.
March 20th. Moreno was once a place of considerable impor-
tance. The ruins of the town do not compare with those of Barinas,
Guanare, or San Carlos, but still they are interesting and give one some
idea of its former size. Practically all of the principal buildings that
once graced the plaza, including the church and the Government
buildings, are totally in ruins. Moreno has a cemetery, the first seen



i6o COLOMBIA

in man}' weeks, enclosed with an adobe wall. The only monuments
are wooden crosses of various heights, mostly rather slim and eight
or ten feet high.
