THE JOURNEY: PISA

upon the portraits of his ancestors who were powerful and
rich. Indifferent eyes may value them as works of art, but
to him they have another meaning, and address other
feelings. They are not pictures, but symbols ; not forms,
but memorials

Sunday, 24th October, the Festival of St Raphael the
Archangel, was enjoyably spent at Pisa in attendance at
Divine service in the Duomo and other churches, and in
adding vastly to my store of information upon that lovely
variety of the Romanesque, to which the term Pisan has
been so appropriately applied.
The bells in the Leaning Tower began to ring about
nine o'clock for the Chapter Offices,* and on strolling into
the Cathedral I found the choir prepared for High Mass
and several fine Graduales placed open on the lecterns.
An Italian cathedral or parish-church choir is generally
accessible, and at Pisa that morning I roamed about the
stalls at will, admiring the wonderful " marqueterie " of
their seats and backs, and turning over the leaves of the
Office Books which had been opened at the Mass, the
music being, to my great joy, that old favourite, the
" Missa de Angelis."

Returning to the grassy space surrounding the Duomo,
I waited while a long procession of white-robed seminarists
issued from their college adjoining the Campo Santo, and
entered the Cathedral with them, when they immediately
began to sing the Office of Terce. This, as well as the sub-
sequent Chapter Mass, was sung to the Gregorian Chant
without the accompaniment of the organ, which, how-

* There are seven bells in this campanile, so arranged that the
heavier metal may counteract the leaning. One of them, called Pas-
quaveccia, was tolled when criminals were taken to execution.
