******

So to Papara, and here we are at the south-western
extremity of Tahiti. No hotels are round the island, only
what may be termeA^guest-houses.'" Accommodation here can
be got at a beautiful bungalow down by the beach, belonging to
Tati, our friend at Papeete. He is Chief of the district, and
deservedly beloved by all his people. Then, there is Lehertal's
restaurant, even more handy ; and if one desires to prolong the
stay, a villa can be rented at a reasonable price.
A charming village is Papara. The pretty little cjiurch
belonging to the Catholics recalls Piedmont, but her* the
palms vibrate to " Kyrie Eleison," the breadfruit re-tingles to
Ave Maria.
We alight from the diligence near another church, gleaming
in whitewash and roofed in blood red, aptly symbolical of
Elysium and Hades. This is the property of the Lutheran or
Protestant culte, and has just been finished. Why the expense,
it is hard to divine. The Cathedral of Nature is all around,
with God in everything and carols in the flowers.
Strange paradox, marvellous sophism ; that the natives,
bubbling with life and the essence of the Infinite, should be
taught the dissensions of the Gospel of Love ! Surely a prayer
can arise from a palm thatch and hymns ascend to the vault
of heaven !

The Protestant church, fresh from the lime-brush, has
already a history, stamped on the lining of the native stomach,
writ large on the cells of the Tahitian brain.
