Before dawn rain splashed through the beech-leaves, and we
had to retreat from before our inountain, which on this side looked
formidable enough. We amused ourselves on the way down by
trying who could find the most blossoms on a single stalk of the
yellow lilies. Fourteen won the competition. Pursued by rain-
storms we fled through Latal, and away from the scanty resources
of the Priestav's deputy at Betsho and the native dukhan to the
hospitality of Prince Atar on the heights of Ezeri.
Prince Atar announced his intention to join us in our second
attempt on the Laila. Caucasians dine too late to start early,
and it was 1 p.m. before our cavalcade was ready and we set off"
to ride across the meadows and down the steep zigzags to the Ingur.
At a village on its left bank lived an uncle of the Prince : at



TRAVEL AND MOUNTAINEERING IN SUANETIA 255

his house we halted for tea. He was a hearty person, but our
conversation was necessarily limited. He set my mind, however,
at rest as to the native origin of the names I have used since
1868 for the two most conspicuous mountains of Suanetia. ' Ushha,
Tetnuld,' he exclaimed, as he sat on his balcony and waved his
hand to the two peaks," which were both in sight. Samovars
always take a long time preparing, and male Caucasians are as




A MOUNTAINEERS ' AT HOME '



prone as the women of other nations to linger over afternoon tea.
To arrive before dark we had to push our animals at a trot up a
staircase-path where boughs threatened to sweep the rider from
his saddle. After two hoiu-s' ride we found the shepherds' quarters,
a good log hut.
