We saw from above what looked like a smooth glade. Our self-
congratulations wei'e premature. The smooth and flowery surface
was some seven feet above the ground ; we waded or cut through
a dense growth of broad-leaved plants, until a bear's track gave
us a line to the banks of the
river. At this spot, one long
day's march from Gebi, there
is a birch-bark shelter. It is
a pleasant halting-place in fine
weather ; the eastern glacier of
the Skenis Skali shines above
the leafy solitude ; there are
fish in the river, and chamois,
if you can find them, on the
hills. But in a rainy season
mosquitoes and small stinging
black flies are apt to murder
sleep — at least for those who
are not provided with one of
Mr. Tuckett's ingenious gauze
canopies.
The little pass to the next
valley might easily be made
practicable for animals. No-
thing but a Caucasian horse
could cross it in its natural

condition, and even Caucasian horses have to be relieved of their
loads. It is approached by two gullies, one of them so steep
that I found myself using my hands to climb it. Our Ushkul
horsemen performed wonders here on my second passage. One
was a dark, tattered, stumpy barbarian : he uttered prayers and
exhortations. Another, a splendid, fair-faced, good-tempered giant,
heaved the struggling animals up the worst places. The third
wore the clothes and had the manners of a Persian gentleman.
