But Mont Major is a mixture of impressions ; its influences
are manifold, and a passing visit is infinitely too little to devote
to it. The spirit and atmosphere of the place cannot be taken in
at a glance. From the very first moment the impression made
is vivid and lasting ; but one feels there is more behind. We
left it only with the greater reluctance ; fcut as H. C. had said,
returning for a moment to his poetical- ^ood, " the summer
daylight dies : " the winter only the sooner : and though the
heat to-day was almost tropical and the atmosphere Eastern in
its clearness, the month was November. /

We said good-bye to the' Provenpale, wliose parting benedic-
tion was a reiterated assurance that she would pray for our
heresy. As our driver took up the reins and cracked his whip
and went off at a gallop dangerous to the shafts, we looked back
and saw her standing under the very shadow of the Pilgrim
Chapel, her hands shading her eyes as she gazed after the
retreating cavalcade in the sunshine. After all, there was good



LES BAUX. 225

in the woman, according to her lights ; she was one who loved
her fellow-men, and her sorrow and concern for the heretic
were very sincere.
It was a day made for the occasion: one of those special
days that stand out in a life-time, and make one dream of
heaven, and bring one quite near to it. The country through
which we drove was beautiful even at this season of the year.
