french water non breaking standing wave pattern caused example reflection traveling surface wave train near vertical shoreline like steep cliff resulting wave travel horizontally fixed pattern waves promote erosion toe wall cause severe damage shore structures term coined french mathematician physicist called waves meaning case purely incoming wave completely reflected normal solid vertical wall standing wave height twice height incoming waves distance half wall case circular water particles deep water wave converted purely linear motion vertical horizontal standing waves alternately rise fall mirror image pattern energy converted potential energy vice versa text naval architecture cecil described phenomenon instant profile water surface like wave profile instead appearing run right left grow horizontal surface attain maximum development till surface horizontal immediately wave profile form grow etc attention concentrated certain crest seen grow greatest height die away succeeded place hollow interval time successive formations given place time component waves related phenomena true rare depth water shore unlikely completely satisfy requirements realistic case partial incoming wave energy dissipated shore incident wave reflected partial standing wave formed water particle motions elliptical occur sea different wave trains near equal moving opposite directions unequal partial wave envelope contains vertical motion wave train strikes wall oblique angle reflected wave train departs angle causing cross hatched wave interference pattern known situation individual formed intersection incident reflected wave train parallel structure wave motion combined resultant material transport wall structure fails waves sea surface atmosphere seismic signals called coupled ocean floor solid earth
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