I'm confused about the selection of hams on the market. Are they all fully cooked?

Most hams are labeled "fully cooked" and are ready to eat; they can be served cold or heated to an internal temperature of 140 degrees F. If a ham is labeled "cook before eating," it must be cooked to an internal temperature of 160 degrees F. If neither term appears on the label, assume the ham needs to be cooked before eating. Most hams will keep for up to one week in the fridge. Here, a shopper's guide:

Cured ham is treated with either a dry or wet process to preserve it. For wet (brine) curing — the most common method — the fresh meat is injected with a solution of salt, sodium nitrites and nitrates, sugar, and other seasonings. For dry curing, salt, sodium nitrites and nitrates, sugar, and sometimes other seasonings are rubbed onto the meat's surface. This process draws out moisture and deepens the flavor and color. Dry-cured hams can be aged for a few weeks or for more than a year (brine-cured hams are not aged) and are usually more expensive.

Canned ham is a boneless cured ham section that is canned, vacuum-sealed, and then fully cooked. A small amount of natural unflavored dry gelatin may be added before sealing to absorb the ham's natural juices.

Smoked ham gets its luscious taste from natural or liquid smoke. Some hams are hung (after curing) in smokehouses over smoldering fires. Various woods, such as hickory, oak, apple, and pecan, add flavor notes.

Fresh ham is an uncured cut that tastes like a fresh pork roast. Its raw color is pinkish red; it turns grayish white when cooked. These cuts are sold with or without the bone, and even as boneless steaks and roasts.

Country ham is saltier and drier than mainstream supermarket hams. It must be made from the hind quarter of the hog, including both the leg and shank bones; the meat is buried in salt, sugar, and spices for about five weeks. A Smithfield ham is a famous style produced in Smithfield, Va., and is usually aged at least six months for excellent flavor. If you want a milder, less salty taste, soak the ham in cold water (for 24 to 72 hours) before cooking.

Whichever style you choose, the beauty of a ham is that you can let the oven do the work while you set the table and make the side dishes. And with a ham front and center, everything else, no matter how simple, automatically looks good.