Turkey Recipes and Tips

Natural vs. organic? To brine, or not to brine? Our complete guide to roasting the perfect bird

Buying the Bird

Until recently, there were just two options when it came to turkey shopping: fresh or frozen. Now there's a whole market full of choices. Here's a rundown of the options:

Free-range: The free-range label identifies a bird that is not raised in a cage and is free to graze on any grasses or grains it can find in its pen, which is generally considered a more humane and healthy poultry farming process. The Department of Agriculture's (U.S.D.A.) food safety agency inspects all poultry processors that carry the term "free-range" to ensure that their birds really are allowed access to the outdoors. You can find free-range turkeys at larger supermarkets, specialty markets, and at your local farmer's market, where it's best to pre-order to ensure that you'll get one during the busy holiday season.
Organic: The organic label is regulated by the U.S.D.A., which requires that all turkeys sold as organic be raised free-range, without the use of antibiotics, and fed an organic and vegetarian diet of grains and grasses that have not been treated with pesticides. Organic birds are available frozen in better supermarkets and fresh or frozen from many online purveyors.
Natural: Unlike the U.S.D.A. "organic" designation, there's no government guarantee to back up the "natural" label. Natural turkeys are generally cheaper than organic, and are often of comparable quality, but not all natural turkeys are created equal. Read the label to find out if the bird you're considering is antibiotic-free, free-range, and/or raised on a vegetarian diet. Many products that announce themselves as "natural" also say they're "hormone-free," but this has less oomph when you consider that ALL poultry products sold with the U.S.D.A. seal (including turkey, chicken, and eggs) are hormone-free, whether advertised or not. (The U.S.D.A. has not approved the use of hormones in poultry production.) The increasing popularity and marketability of natural turkeys means they're available everywhere from the supermarket to high-end retailers to the local butcher shop.
Kosher: Turkeys with the "kosher" label are farmed according to Jewish dietary customs, with strict rabbinical supervision. The bird has been fed a vegetarian diet free from antibiotics, and has undergone a salting process after slaughter that gives the meat a moist and juicy texture when roasted—it's akin to brining but without the fuss. (Because of this, you don't want to brine a kosher bird—it's unnecessary and will make the meat far too salty.) The drawback of kosher turkeys is that the koshering process makes them harder to pluck, often resulting in quills remaining in the skin. But if you want juicy, flavorful meat, don't want to brine, and don't mind plucking a few quills (see the section below on feathers for more on how to do this), they can be a good option. Kosher turkeys are available fresh at most butcher shops (pre-ordering is recommended) and are sold frozen at some supermarkets.
Self-basted: This category includes many of the standard turkeys you'll find in supermarkets. In an effort to retain the turkey's flavor throughout extended freezing, many companies inject the meat with a solution of salt, butter or oil, and sometimes herbs, spices, and preservatives. Self-basting turkeys require less basting during roasting, but they're definitely not for purists: Injecting meat so far ahead of cooking can give it a mushy texture and insipid flavor. If you want to steer clear, note that self-basted turkeys are often not labeled as such, so be sure to check the ingredients list: If you see anything other than "turkey," chances are it was self-basted. As with kosher birds, self-basted turkeys should not be brined, as they already have salt added.
Heritage: Heritage birds are farmed using techniques that mimic pre-1920's-style poultry production. From the 1920's through the 1960's, turkeys were selectively bred to create a plumper, broader breast. By the 1960's the only type of turkey available was the suggestively named Broad-Breasted White, also less appetizingly known as the standard supermarket turkey. This is a bird so busty it's unable to stand up without tipping over—a sad state of affairs if your family consists of dark-meat lovers. Broad Breasted Whites are also very susceptible to disease, a condition not helped by the modern practice of keeping poultry caged in close quarters. This, in turn, led to the rise in the use of antibiotics to prevent illnesses from spreading and infecting a whole flock.

Heritage turkeys have a longer, slower rate of growth. They typically take 26 to 28 weeks to reach a weight suitable for market, while Broad Breasted Whites are ready to sell after about 18 weeks. This additional maturing time gives heritage birds a richer flavor. Heritage breeds include: Narragansett, Jersey Bluff, Standard Bronze, Bourbon Red, Slate, Black Squash, and White Holland. They're available by special order only, and are usually the most expensive turkey in the flock. One source is heritagefoodsusa.com. (For tips on roasting a heritage bird, see our roasting section.)

Fresh vs. Frozen

Some cooks swear by a fresh turkey, claiming that frozen varieties are noticeably drier and not as flavorful. This is probably true if you're talking about an organic or heritage bird from a small local farm. But when it comes to supermarket brands, the difference is negligible at best. This is because the U.S.D.A. allows turkeys designated as "fresh" to be chilled as low as 26°F—well below the freezing point of water—which allows ice crystals to form and the meat to begin drying out just as it would in a fully frozen bird. Bottom line: Though fresh supermarket turkeys cost more than frozen, you won't get much more for your money.

When to Buy

Turkeys that are frozen solid should be bought at least three to five days before cooking to allow ample defrosting time. Fresh turkeys will only keep in the fridge for two days, but most supermarkets will allow you to preorder up to a month ahead during the busy holiday season—this is particularly recommended for specialty items such as kosher and organic birds. If you're buying directly from a butcher or farm, check in up to two months ahead as they may sell out early.

What Size Turkey to Buy

The general rule for turkey buying is one pound per person—one-and-a-half if you want lots of leftovers. The chart below gives more specific weight ranges.

Number of guests: Size of turkey:
8 people 12-14 pounds
10 people 15-16 pounds
12 people 18-20 pounds
14 people 21-22 pounds
16 people 24 pounds


First of all, if you've bought a frozen turkey, you'll need to defrost it. This works best if you plan ahead—it may be tempting to leave the turkey out on the counter overnight, but this is exactly what the invasive bacteria in your kitchen are hoping you'll do. Not a good idea. Instead, use one of these methods:

Defrost in the refrigerator: According to the U.S.D.A., this is the safest choice. There's no chance of harmful bacteria growing, and a bird defrosted in the fridge can be safely re-frozen if plans change.

Pros: Cons:
There's practically no effort involved: Just leave the turkey in its original wrapper and place it in a shallow pan to catch any leaks. This method is time-consuming, and the turkey can hog valuable fridge space during a hectic season. Allow 24 hours for every four to five pounds. (A 13- to 16-pound turkey would take three days.)

Defrost in a cold-water bath: If you're short on time or fridge space, this is your best option. You'll only need about 30 minutes per pound of turkey, so a 13- to 16-pound bird will be ready to go in six to eight hours.

Pros: Cons:
Much faster, and leaves your fridge free for other holiday preparations. This method is labor-intensive. First, make sure the wrapper is water tight, with no tears or thin spots in the plastic. (You don't want the water to soak into the bird itself, and you don't want any bacteria to leak out of the bird and into the water.) Submerge the turkey in cold water in a basin or sink, and check with a thermometer to be sure the water is 40°F or colder. As the bird thaws, drain and replace the water every 30 minutes, always checking to be sure it remains below 40°F. (If you live in a cold climate, placing the basin outside will help keep it cool.) When you're done, be sure to scrub the sink or basin thoroughly to remove any bacteria.

All About Giblets

After defrosting (or first, if your turkey is fresh), the next step is to remove the bag of giblets from inside the cavity. Giblets are the turkey's edible organs (usually the heart, liver, and gizzard), plus the neck. They're safe to eat (and delicious), and can be simmered in stock or water to add flavor to basting liquid, stuffing, or gravy. If you forget to remove them before roasting, take them out as soon as you remember. If the bag is paper, they're still fine to use, but if it's plastic, you can only use them if there are no signs of damage—if the bag has melted or become singed, you should unfortunately discard both the giblets and the bird, as chemicals from the heated plastic may have leached into the meat.

Extra feathers

Before you rinse your bird, take a look at the skin: Organic turkeys, heritage breeds, and kosher birds may still have some quills (broken-off feathers) embedded. If you want a smooth, unbroken surface that will brown up evenly, use a clean pair of tweezers or needle nose pliers to pluck any stray quills.


Finally, rinse the outside of the turkey and inside the cavity with cool water and pat dry. As a precaution against the spread of harmful bacteria, be sure to wash the sink, countertop, and any utensils that have come in contact with the uncooked meat, as well as your own hands, with soap and water.

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