What is glycolic acid?

Should we regularly be using glycolic products, and what are the benefits above other exfoliating acids?

Most Popular

Glycolic acid is one of those ingredients that pops up time and time again on packaging, but what is it? And should you be incorporating it into your skincare routine? Bazaar explores the pros and cons to the ingredient.

What is glycolic acid?

A form of AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) derived from plant sugars (hence being commonly referred to as a 'fruit acid'), glycolic acid is a form of chemical exfoliator. It has the smallest molecules of all AHAs, enabling it to effectively penetrate the upper layers of the skin.

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

How does it work?

Glycolic acid, like other AHAs, acts on the surface layer of the skin to dissolve the cement between dead cells. It therefore gently resurfaces skin without the need for scrubbing and potentially aggravating your skin. 'Glycolic is effective at taking off the surface layers of dead skin, to reveal fresher, more luminous skin beneath,' says skincare expert Debbie Thomas.

What are the benefits of glycolic acid?

It is an excellent treatment for mature, sun-damaged skin, thanks to its ability to increase cell turnover and remove dull, dead surface cells. 'BHA's such as salicylic acid are preferable to exfoliate skin with inflammation or acne, but glycolics are superior at treating skin which has a lot of sun-induced pigmentation or a grey cast,' says Thomas. There is also substantial evidence that it can change the structure of the skin, thickening the dermis and stimulating collagen production. 'Removing these dead cells also allows skincare products to be absorbed more effectively,' adds Thomas.

Most Popular

Does using glycolic acid pose any risks?

Over use of any exfoliant – including glycolic – can lead to irritation and redness. 'I see so many women with dermatitis caused by over using exfoliators,' says the famed Beverly Hills facialist Sonya Dakar. How to tell if you're overdoing it? 'Sensitised, over-stimulated skin has multiple tiny, almost rash-like bumps on it and can sting when serums and moisturisers are applied,' explains Dakar. If this is the case then lessen the frequency that you use your glycolic product and be sure to use it on alternate days from other highly active skincare ingredients, especially retinol.

Bazaar recommends: The appropriate strength of glycolic for your skin should leave it glowing, not peeling or red.

Best cream: Dr Lancer Retexturising Treatment Cream 10%, £68, combines glycolic acid at an effective PH of 3.8–4 with emollients that make it particularly suitable for dryer skins.

Best pads: Malin + Goetz Resurfacing Glycolic Pads, £38, leave the skin looking and feeling instantly refined and glowing.

Best at-home peel: Alpha H Liquid Gold, £33.50, smooths and resurfaces skin without leaving it feeling stripped and tight. Use this mask once a week for the best results.



What is retinol?

Beauty SOS: Does suncream reverse ageing?

The new approach to filler

More from Harper's BAZAAR: